FR2604453A1

FR2604453A1 - Method for manufacturing a raised-design cloth and cloth obtained

Info

Publication number: FR2604453A1
Application number: FR8613781A
Authority: FR
Inventors: Claude Corbiere
Original assignee: CORTEX
Current assignee: CORTEX
Priority date: 1986-09-30
Filing date: 1986-09-30
Publication date: 1988-04-01

Abstract

Method for manufacturing a raised-design cloth, woven or knitted, characterised in that it consists: - first of all in joining two superimposed cloths by spaced stitching lines, respectively a first shrinkable cloth and a second shrunk cloth; - then, in a known manner, in treating the combination under satisfactory conditions for shrinking the first shrinkable cloth and fixing it in shape; - then in removing the stitching thread; - and finally, in receiving the second initially shrunk cloth, which is deformed and fixed by the shrinkage.

Description

PROCEDE POUR FABRIQUER UNE ETOFFE EN RELIEF ET ETOFFE
OBTENUE.PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A RELIEF FABRIC AND FABRIC
OBTAINED.

L'invention concerne un procédé pour fabriquer une étoffe, tissée ou tricotée notamment, à relief ; elle concerne également les étoffes ainsi obtenues. The invention relates to a method for manufacturing a fabric, woven or knitted in particular, in relief; it also relates to the fabrics thus obtained.

On connait déjà un procédé pour fabriquer des étof- fes, tissées notamment, à relief, qui fait appel à un assemblage de fils ayant des pouvoirs de retrait diffé- rents. On obtient de la sorte des effets à relief, notamment du type cloqué ou crépe, largement utilisés, mais qui sont jugés insuffisants pour les besoins actuels de la mode. There is already known a process for manufacturing fabrics, woven in particular, in relief, which calls for an assembly of threads having different withdrawal powers. In this way, relief effects, in particular of the blistered or crepe type, are widely used, but which are considered insufficient for current fashion needs.

L'invention pallie ces inconvénients Elle vise un procédé pour fabriquer une étoffe à relief qui se caractérise en ce qu'elle consiste :
- tout d'abord, à lier par des lignes de couture espacées deux étoffes superposées, respectivement la pre mièvre rétractable, la seconde rétractée,
- puis, de manière connue, à traiter l'ensemble dans des conditions suffisantes pour provoquer le retrait de la première étoffe rétractable et la fixation en forme desdites étoffes;
- puis,à éliminer partie au moins d'un des fils de liage
- et enfin à réceptionner la deuxième étoffe déformée par la rétraction et la fixation.The invention overcomes these drawbacks. It relates to a method for manufacturing a relief fabric which is characterized in that it consists:
- first of all, to tie two superimposed fabrics by spaced seam lines, respectively the first retractable cutesy, the second retracted,
- Then, in known manner, to treat the assembly under conditions sufficient to cause the withdrawal of the first retractable fabric and the fixing in the form of said fabrics;
- then, to eliminate at least part of one of the binding threads
- And finally to receive the second fabric deformed by the retraction and fixing.

Avantageusement :
- au moins l'un des fils de liage (couture, brode est est un fil labile qui est éliminé par un traitement physique ou chimique, ultérieur à la rétraction ;
- ce fil labile peut être un fil d'alcool polyvinylique que l'on éliminera à l'eau chaude ou un fil cellulosique (viscose, coton..) que l'on éliminra par une opération de rongeage ou analogue
- l'envers de la première étoffe rétractable puis rétractée, est gratté ou rasé jusqu'à rompre le fil de liage de la couture
- de suite après rétraction et avant élimination du fil de couture, la deuxième étoffe rétractée déformée est imprimée ;;
- cette impression est effectuée notamment par la technique transfert
- on intercale une ouate ou un voile non tissé entre les deux étoffes avant le liage par couture.Advantageously:
- at least one of the binding threads (sewing, embroidery is a labile thread which is removed by physical or chemical treatment, after shrinking;
- This labile yarn can be a polyvinyl alcohol yarn which will be removed with hot water or a cellulosic yarn (viscose, cotton, etc.) which will be removed by a gnawing operation or the like
- the reverse side of the first retractable fabric then retracted, is scraped or shaved until it breaks the binding thread of the seam
- immediately after retraction and before elimination of the sewing thread, the second deformed retracted fabric is printed;
- this printing is carried out in particular by the transfer technique
- a wadding or a non-woven veil is inserted between the two fabrics before binding by sewing.

La manière dont l'invention peut être réalisée et les avantages qui en découlent ressortiront mieux des exemples de réalisation qui suivent, dons à tire indi catif et non limitatif. The manner in which the invention can be implemented and the advantages which ensue therefrom will emerge more clearly from the following exemplary embodiments, indicative and non-limiting gifts.

Exemple 1
On superpose un premier tissu tissé rétractable de serrage moyen comportant en chaine comme en trame des fils polyester à fort pouvoir de retrait (fil GR), mais ayant des pouvoirs de retrait différents dans chacune des deux directions : chaîne et trame, et un second tissu également en polyester,mais rétractés de contexture et de poids sensiblement voisins.Example 1
A first retractable woven fabric of medium tightening is superimposed comprising, in warp as in weft, polyester threads with high shrinkage power (GR thread), but having different shrinkage powers in each of the two directions: warp and weft, and a second fabric also in polyester, but shrunk with substantially similar texture and weight.

On lie entre eux ces deux tissus par une couture au point de chainette réalisé sur une machine à coudre selon des ondulations en espaçant ces coutures d'environ trois centimètres. These two fabrics are linked together by a chain stitch seam made on a sewing machine according to undulations, spacing these seams about three centimeters.

L'un au moins des deux fils de couture, par exemple celui de la can/étte,est en alcool polyvinylique soluble dans l'eau à 90"C. At least one of the two sewing threads, for example that of the can / ette, is made of water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol at 90 ° C.

De manière connue, on rétracte à chaud à sec cet ensemble ainsi lié. Sous l'effet de la température, le fil polyester rétractable de la première étoffe se contracte, obligeant ainsi le second tissu déjà rétracté à former des reliefs très variés, accentués par la couture. In known manner, this set, thus bonded, is hot-shrunk to dryness. Under the effect of the temperature, the retractable polyester yarn of the first fabric contracts, thus forcing the second already shrunk fabric to form very varied reliefs, accentuated by the seam.

On plonge ensuite cet ensemble dans un bain de teinture à chaud, ce qui d'une part, provoque l'élimination du fil de PVA et ainsi désolidarise les deux tissus et colore le tissu à relief initialement rétracté, que l'on réceptionne de manière connue. This set is then immersed in a hot dyeing bath, which on the one hand causes the elimination of the PVA thread and thus separates the two fabrics and colors the initially retracted relief fabric, which is received in a manner known.

Ce tissu est avantageusement ondulé et présente des reliefs accentués originaux convenant parfaitement pour la haute couture. This fabric is advantageously wavy and has original accentuated reliefs which are perfectly suited for haute couture.

Exemple 2
On répète l'exemple 1 en remplaçant le fil de liage de couture par un fil de viscose. Après rétraction, on imprime par la technique de transfert le second tissu initialement rétracté et déformé.Example 2
Example 1 is repeated, replacing the seam tying thread with a viscose thread. After retraction, the second tissue initially retracted and deformed is printed by the transfer technique.

Ensuite, de manière connue, on élimine le fil de viscoe par la technique de rongeage. Then, in a known manner, the viscoe yarn is eliminated by the gnawing technique.

Après séchage, on obtient une étoffe analogue à celle de l'exemple 1. After drying, a fabric similar to that of Example 1 is obtained.

Exemple 3
On répète l'exemple 1 en remplaçant le fil de couture en alcool polyvinylique par un fil fin en coton. Example 3
Example 1 is repeated, replacing the polyvinyl alcohol sewing thread with a fine cotton thread.

Après rétraction, on gratte la face envers de la première étoffe initialement rétractable mais rétractée, ce qui provoque la cassure ou la coupure du fil de liage de couture et désolidarise les deux étoffes. After shrinking, the reverse side of the first initially shrinkable but shrunk fabric is scraped, which causes the seam binding thread to break or cut and the two fabrics to be separated.

On comprend qu'en jouant sur le tracé du liage, les conditions des traitements d'élimination du fil de liage, et les conditions d'impression, on peut obtenir,sans investissement notable, des effets originaux très variés correspondant aux effets actuellement recrachés. It is understood that by playing on the layout of the binding, the conditions of the treatments for eliminating the binding wire, and the printing conditions, it is possible to obtain, without significant investment, very varied original effects corresponding to the effects currently spit out.

Les étoffes tissées ou tricotées préparées selon l'invention se caractérisent par un relief nouveau original convenant comme déjà dit particulièrement à la mode. The woven or knitted fabrics prepared according to the invention are characterized by a new original relief suitable as already said particularly fashionable.

Claims

1 / Method for manufacturing a fabric, woven or knitted, in relief, characterized in that it consists

- First, to link by spaced seam lines two superposed fabrics respectively a first retractable fabric and a second retracted fabric;

- Then, in known manner, to treat the assembly under conditions sufficient to cause the retraction of the first retractable fabric and the fixing in the form of said fabrics

- then, to partially eliminate at least one of the sewing threads

- And finally, to receive the second fabric initially retracted, deformed by the retraction and the fixation.

2 / A method according to claim 1, characterized in that at least one of the binding threads is a labile thread capable of being removed by a physical or chemical treatment, subsequent to the retraction.

3 / A method according to claim 2, characterized in that the labile thread is a polyvinyl alcohol thread which is eliminated during a subsequent treatment with hot water.

4 / A method according to claim 2, characterized in that the labile thread is a cellulosic thread which is eliminated by a subsequent gnawing treatment.

5 / A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the reverse side of the first fabric initially retractable then retracted is scraped or shaved until at least part of the binding thread of the seam is broken.

6 / Method according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that, immediately after the retraction phase but immediately before the phase of elimination of the sewing thread, the second fabric shrunk but deformed is printed.

7 / A method according to claim 6, characterized in that the printing of the second deformed retracted fabric is carried out by transfer.

8 / A method according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that prior to sewing, is interposed between the two fabrics a wadding or a nonwoven veil.

9! Fabric, woven or knitted, obtained by 1 implementation of the method according to one of claims 1 to 8.