FR2532174A1 - OXIDIZING TINCTORIAL COMPOSITIONS FOR HAIR - Google Patents

Abstract

AN OXIDIZING TINCTORIAL HAIR COMPOSITION HAS A VISCOSITY CURVE IN RELATION TO THE LAMINAR FLOW RATE HAVING A STRAIGHT SLOPE AND THAT HAS GOOD FLOW AND SPREAD CHARACTERISTICS WHEN OBSERVED ON A SLOPED SUPPORT. THE COMPOSITION HAS A VISCOSITY OF APPROXIMATELY 3200 TO APPROXIMATELY 10000CENTIPOISES AT LOW FLOOR RATE OF 8.5 S, A VISCOSITY OF APPROXIMATELY 70 TO APPROXIMATELY 150CENTIPOISES AT HIGH LAMINAR FLOW RATE OF 1370 S, AND SAID COMPOSITION HAS A FLOW AND A MAXIMUM SPREAD OF 2.5CM ON A SLOPED SUPPORT.

Description

A 2532174

  OXIDIZING TINCTORIAL COMPOSITIONS FOR HAIR

  The subject of the present invention is dye compositions.

  for oxidizing and aqueous hair with rheological properties ex-

  The dye compositions for hair according to the present invention have excellent flow, spreading and

retention.

  Physical properties of oxidizing dye compositions

  for hair according to the prior art generally correspond to a

  promised between the flow characteristics necessary for different

  stages of the dyeing process When an oxy-

  dante for hair is applied to the hair, it should preferably have a fluid character so that it flows and covers each entire rod of hair taken from the mass of the hair On the other hand, if the dye remains too fluid after application to the hair, it will flow in an undesirable way and will drip from the head If we consider that this last problem is resolved by making the dye fairly viscous then it no longer spreads as desired on the hair at time

its application.

  The Applicant has found an oxidizing dye composition for hair which exhibits favorable characteristics of variable viscosity which includes a viscosity of approximately 3,200 to approximately 10,000 centipoises.

  (cps) with low laminar flow rate (8.5 s-1) and a viscosity of approx.

  ron 70 at around 150 cps at high laminar flow rate (1370 S 1)

  as well as a drop spread rate which is not more than 25 mm.

  The composition according to the present invention comprises, based on the weight of the total composition of approximately 5 to approximately 10% of a fatty acid containing from 18 to 22 carbon atoms in its molecule, sufficient

  basifying to neutralize said fatty acid and bring the composition tinc-

  torial for hair at a p H of between 8.5 and 11.5 from approximately 1.25% to approximately 5% of a fatty alcohol having between 12 and 22 carbon atoms in its molecule, of approximately 1.5 % to about 6% of a dye oxidizer for hair expressed as absolute H 202 and from about 10% to about 15% of at least one alkoxylated alkylphenol having an HLB of about 9 to about 11.5 All the percentages are given by weight unless otherwise specified. All chemical names used conform to the classification used by the dictionary of cosmetic ingredients CFTA published by The Cosmetic Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc in 1982 All parameters are

given at room temperature.

  Thus, the present invention provides a dye composition for hair exhibiting marked thixotropic properties, that is to say a curve of the viscosity as a function of the laminar flow rate has a fairly marked slope. This means that when the dye composition for hair containing the basic composition in accordance with

  present invention is subject to high shear stress constraints.

  for example when it is agitated at the time of application and during

  a relatively short period of time ensuing, its viscosity is re-

  laterally weak This results in the composition being sufficient

  ment fluid to flow well on the hair on application After being applied to the hair, the composition becomes gradually viscous

  and will not flow and drip from the hair

  paratives were carried out with a large number of dye compositions

  for trade hair, and have shown the superiority of the characteristics

  flow of dye compositions for hair prepared according to

the present invention.

  The HLB of an emulsifier is determined according to the detailed description

  featured in the booklet The Atlas HLB System, published by Atlas

  Chemical Industries, Inc. The letters HLB correspond to hydrophilic-lipo-

  phile balance (balance-hydrophilic-lipophilic) This system was introduced by Atlas Chemical Industries in the last 40 years as a criterion

  systematic to designate the emulsifying characteristics of products.

  Each emulsifier is assigned a numerical value which is considered

  as its HLB The numerical value refers to the balance between the dimen-

  ion and the strength of the hydrophilic or polar groups and the strength of the lipophilic or non-polar groups of each emulsifier, because all emulsifiers consist of a molecule which combines both hydrophilic groups and lipophilic groups An emulsifier which has a lipophilic character is assigned an HLB of less than 9, and an emulsifier which has a character

25321-74

  hydrophilic is assigned an HLB greater than 11 Those with an HLB com-

  taken between HLB 9 and HLB 11, are considered to be of an intermediate

  diary. When several emulsifiers are mixed, the composite HLB of the mixture is the arithmetic total of the product of the percentage of each

  ingredient and its HLB For example, in the case of a suitable combination

  quate of alkoxylated alkylphenols nonoxylnol-9 (HLB 13), and nonoxylnol-4 -

  (HLB 8.8), when both are present in equal concentration, the HLB re-

  The result of the mixture is 10.9. Other alkoxylated alkylphenols or their mixtures which may be suitable within the framework of the present invention are obvious to those skilled in the art having knowledge in the field.

  hair dye formulations.

  As the oxidant is an essential constituent of the compositions

  lon the present invention and as the oxidizing or developing composition

  pement as they are called in the field of hair dyeing must

  be kept separate from the composition containing a dye intermediate

  Quure of hair Qu plus (often considered as "dyeing" in the art of hair dyeing), and as the development and dyeing compositions are aqueous solutions, it is preferable that at least part of the alkoxylated alkylphenol emulsifier is contained in the developing composition This allows easier mixing of the developing composition with the dye composition when the

  two are mixed together before use.

  As an example of C 18 to C 22 fatty acids which can be used in accordance with the present invention, there may be mentioned stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, acid

  oleic, linoleic acid or mixtures of acids such as those of ori-

  natural gine such as fatty acids derived from resin

  like resinol These acids can be saturated or unsaturated.

  A range of C 2 to C 22 fatty alcohols can be used in accordance with

  ment to the present invention, such as lauric, oleic, stearic, isostearic, cetyl, myristilic, behylic alcohol and their equivalents,

  These alcohols can have a straight chain or a branched structure,

turbid or unsaturated.

  The basifier can be any used product conventionally used in hair treatment compositions such as ammonium hydroxide, monoethyanolamine, and the like, to neutralize fatty acid and

establish the desired alkaline p H.

  Although the oxidant is expressed as hydrogen peroxide equivalent, other oxidants suitable for use in hair treatment compositions can be used, such as other peroxides

  such as for example urea peroxide Although it is understood that reference

  Reference is made throughout this description and to the claims

  tions to a dye composition for hair, the present invention

  as disclosed in this description and in the claims

  tions is understood to include mild bleaches that do not contain ne-

  dye intermediates for hair to produce a color Normally, however, compositions intended mainly for bleaching the hair also contain bleaching promoters such as pulverulent per-compounds added to an oxidant

  such as hydrogen peroxide It has been found, however, that ca-

  advantageous variable viscosity characteristics according to the present invention

  tion could only be obtained when such discoloration promoters

  were added to the composition.

  The flow properties of the composition according to the pre-

  sente invention have been compared with a relatively large number of commercially available oxidative hair dyes The data for these comparisons are presented below in the following examples All commercially available compounds show, to some extent, a dependence of their viscosity vis-à-vis the laminar flow rate, however none of them demonstrated a high degree

  of dependence on the laminar flow rate like the compounds

  tions according to the present invention So that it appears that in

  the formulation of commercial compositions according to the prior art, an al-

  ternative necessarily arose, either to obtain a high viscosity

  low laminar flow rate to ensure good flow properties

  or to obtain sufficiently low viscosities at high laminar flow rates to obtain good flow properties -, but not both at the same time With a minor exception, it appears that those who formulated the commercial compositions have generally chosen them

  low viscosities with high laminar flow rate at the expense of obtaining

  tion of insufficiently high viscosities at low laminar flow rate.

  Such alternatives are not necessarily present in the case of the compositions in accordance with the present invention because of the more acute dependence on the laminar flow rate of the viscosity values, which makes it possible to obtain the ideal viscosities. both at

  upper and lower ends of the laminar flow rate range.

  According to the examples, a list of numerous tinc products is given.

  commercially available hair oxidizing torials that are used to

  for comparison on the basis of the constituents indicated on their labels

  quettes This information was only available for commercial hair dyes that were in the United States because there is no list of mandatory components in other countries None of the commercial oxidizing hair dyes for which the constituents were

  known only contained the unique combination of constituents according to the pre-

  sente invention Like viscosity measurements as a function of the e-

  laminar flow of the compositions according to the present invention and of the commercially available dye oxidizing compositions of the hair have demonstrated that the formulators of the commercial compositions apparently did not intend first of all to ensure good flow properties during the application of the dye composition on the

  hair, we did a second series of tests.

  In these series of tests, the retention properties at high viscosity of the compositions in accordance with the present invention and of the commercial compositions were compared. A small sample of each dye oxidizing hair composition is placed at the top of an inclined plate and after five minutes, we measure the distances traveled by each of

  samples The data from these comparative retention tests are also

  if indicated in the following examples These data show that a single dye composition of the hair commercially available (Polycolor Creme Haircolor 45) exhibited retention properties similar to those of the compositions according to the present invention. laminar flow for this same commercial composition, however, indicates a relatively high viscosity value

  which suggests that the flow properties are in comparison

  its unfavorable and of course this indicates that the alternative in the case of this commercial composition has leaned towards the choice of a high

  viscosity at low laminar flow rate for better pro-

  spreading properties As explained below, the retention tests have, moreover, revealed that the high viscosity at low laminar flow rate does not necessarily ensure good retention properties of the dye composition. For this reason, in addition to the rule that the composition should have a viscosity of about 3,200 to about 10,000 cps at low laminar flow rate of 8.5 5 it is

  necessary that, in addition, when trying to keep the distance covered

  street is not more than 25 mm.

  A number of comparative experiments have been carried out to

  determine which are the essential constituents that contribute to

  hold the favorable rheological properties according to the present invention. These comparative experiences made it possible not only to define the

  essential constituents which contribute to obtaining the desired properties

  tables but also to demonstrate that while we were expected to

  viscosity values at low laminar flow rate were some

  as little indicative of the retention characteristics of the composition, the retention tests on an inclined support have a characteristic at least as important if not more so that a high viscosity at low laminar flow rate does not necessarily result in

  acceptable retention results on the incline.

  A dye base containing the following constituents expressed in weight percent based on the basic dye composition have

served as a basis for comparison.

  lauramide DEA 3.0% ammonium hydroxide 8.7% cetyl alcohol 2.5% oleic acid 12.0% laureth-23 0.5% water, amount sufficient for 100 An equal volume of the developer of Example 3 a was used in these tests This base has a viscosity of 5324 cps at low laminar flow rate (8.5 s-1) and a viscosity of 101 cps at high flow rate

  laminar (1370 s-1) and the retention test showed no movement.

  The following table summarizes the comparative results The first

  column of the table indicates the difference between the sample and the composition

  above-mentioned basic dyeing position.

  A new series of similar comparative tests has been carried out to

  identify other essential constituents that contribute to the composition

  dyeing of the hair by the developing component It has therefore been found that the oxidant is an essential constituent so that this results in the presence of approximately 10% to approximately 15% by weight relative to the dye composition of the hair. alkoxylated or alkyl phenol having a

HLB from about 9 to about 11.5.

2532174 '

  Sample distance flow rate laminar flow viscosity (cps) ____________ (cm) (51) _ oleic acid omitted cetyl alcohol omitted lauramide DEA omitted laureth-23 omitted lauramide DEA and laureth-23 omitted oleic alcohol instead of alcohol cetyl lauric acid instead of oleic acid lauric alcohol instead of cetyl alcohol palmitic acid instead of oleic acid myristic acid instead of oleic acid isostearic alcohol with cetyl alcohol instead 2.5 2.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 8.5 -1711

  ú ____________________ J _______________

2532174 '

  The following illustrative examples demonstrate examples of realizations

  sation of the present invention All percentages are given in

  weight-of the composition of the examples unless indicated otherwise.

EXAMPLE 1

  The following composition is the dye element of a composition

  dye for oxidizing hair to obtain a light dye

pretty brown.

  ammonium hydroxide 8.7% cetyl alcohol 1.5% stearic alcohol 1.0% lauramide DEA 3 3.0% oleic acid 12.0% perfume 0.1% laureth 23 0.5% phenylenediamide 0.27% sulfate N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) pphenylenediamine 0.11% 1-naphthol 0.1% resorcinol 0.85% sodium sulfite 0.1% erythorbic acid 0.2%

EDTA 0.05%

  water, sufficient quantity for 100% -

  The dye composition contains ammonium hydroxide, two fatty alcohols (cetyl and stearic) and oleic acid which are

  critical constituents of the composition according to the present invention.

EXAMPLE 2

  -The following dye composition has been prepared to obtain

a blonde coloring.

  ammonium hydroxide 10.0% cetyl alcohol 4.5% lauramide DEA 3 3.0% oleic acid 13.0% perfume 0.1% laureth 23 0.5% p-phenylenediamine 0.06% N, N sulfate -bis (2-hydroxyethyl) p-phenylenediamine 0.16% lnaphthol 0.03% resorcinol 1.0% sodium sulfite 0.1% erythorbic acid 0.2%

EDTA 0.05%

  water, sufficient quantity for 100%

EXAMPLE 3

  The following development agent has been prepared for joint use

  with the dye compositions of Examples 1 and 2.

  nonoxynol-9 10.0% nonoxynol-4 10.0%

EDTA 0.02%

  50% hydrogen peroxide 12.3%

  water, sufficient quantity for 100% -

  The dye composition for hair is formed in me-_

  changing equal quantities by volume of one of the dye compositions

  of Examples 1 or 2 and of the developing composition of Example 3 The mixing is carried out either by stirring the mixture in a

  application bottle from which the product will be directly applied

  qué by jet on the hair or by mixing the two compositions in a mixing bowl, the application of the mixture being then made with a brush,

  as is usual in the art of hair dyeing.

  Viscosity measurements comparing oxy- hair dyes

  dantes of the trade with the compositions prepared in accordance with the present invention were carried out in the Haake Rotovisco viscometer,

  The measures are summarized in the table on page 1, in which the visco-

  sity in centipoise (cps) is given for each product with a low laminar flow rate of 8.5 s- 1 and a high laminar flow rate

  from 1370 s-1 All the compositions used the compositions of

  respective development of commercial samples except in the case of the present invention where the development of Example 3 was employed, The comparative tests of retention of the compositions

  according to the present invention with the oxidizing hair products of the

  were made by spraying 0.5 g of each component, respectively

  hair coloring on a stiff cardboard inclined at an angle of 600.

  After 5 minutes, the distance over which each drop has

  passed or spread downwards The distances in cm traveled by the diff-

  the samples are shown in the table on page 11.

2532174 '

  In the case of commercial oxidizing dyes, the developer corresponding to each product was used In the case of the compositions

  in accordance with the present invention, the developer of Example

  ple 3 The numbers following some indications of commercial samples

are shade numbers.

2532-174 '

  In the case of the last commercial sample showing

  good retention characteristic, the visco-

  High laminar flow rate for the sample has shown that in the formulation of this product; flow characteristics

  have apparently been compromised in favor of the high viscosity.

  From the labels of commercial products sold in the United States to be used for the present comparisons, the following compositions can be obtained: Preference: dye: ammonia, oleic acid, oleic alcohol, cocamide EA, eth Es dye: ammonia, olic acid , ol 6 ic alcohol, DEA cocamide, tea

  polyglycerul-4-oleic, polyglyceryl-2-oleic ether.

  developer: ceteth-2, oleamide DEA.

  Nice'n Easy: tincture: ammonia, oleic acid, octoxynol-1, nonoxynol-4, cocamide DEA.

  developer: nonoxynol-9, nonoxynol-4, cetyl alcohol, stearic alcohol.

  Miss Clairol Shampoo Formula: tincture: ammonia, resinol fatty acid, octoxynol-1, nonoxynol-4,

DEA linoleamide.

  developer: nonoxynol-9, nonoxynol-4, cetyl alcohol, steric alcohol.

  Miss Clairol Cream-Formula: tincture: ammonia, oleic acid, nonoxynol4, octoxynol-1, lauryl

sodium sulfate.

  Sample flow distance (cm) Example 1 O Example 2 O 'Nice'n Easy 4.3 Preference 9 1/2 BB 6.9 Excellence, 6 7.1 High Fashion A 5.6 Miss Clairol Shampoo Formula 36 4, 3 Miss Clairol Cream 36 Formula 2.3 Clairesse 206 10.9 Kolestone 800 N 6.6 Majiblond 4.6 Polycolor Tonungs Wasche 18 8.4 Polycolor Haircolor Cream 45 O i er

developer: water.

  Excellence: tincture: ammonia, triethanolamine, ammonium laureth sulfate,

pareth-15-9, pareth-15-3.

  developer: Ceteth-2, oleamide DEA. Clairesse:

  tincture: monoethanolamine, octoxynol-1, nonoxynol-9, linoleamide-DEA.

  developer: nonoxynol-4, nonoxynol-9, cetyl alcohol, stearic alcohol.

Claims (9)

  1. Oxidizing hair dye composition which is easily distributed when applied to the hair and remains in place once applied to the hair, said composition having a viscosity at room temperature of approximately 3,200 to approximately 10,000 centipoises at a laminar flow rate of 8.5 s-1, a viscosity of about 70 to about 150 centipoise at a laminar flow rate of 1370 s-1   and a maximum flow and spreading distance of 2.5 cm.   2. In an oxidizing hair dye composition having an alkaline p H which contains an oxidant and water, the improvement which comprises from about 5% to about 10% by weight of a fatty acid containing from about 18 to about 22 carbon atoms in its molecule, a sufficient amount of basifying agent to neutralize said fatty acid and establish a p H of approximately 8.5 to approximately 11.5, approximately 1.25% to approximately 5% of an alcohol fatty having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms in its molecule, and from about 10% to about 15% of at least one alkoxylated alkylphenol having an HLB, or more of such phenols having a composite HLB, of about 9 at around 11.5.   3. Oxidizing hair dye composition according to the claim   cation 2, wherein the composition comprises from about 1.5% to about 6% of a hair dye oxidant expressed as absolute hydrogen peroxide. 4. Oxidizing hair dye composition according to one of the   claims 2 or 3, wherein the fatty acid is saturated or unsaturated   and the fatty alcohol is saturated or i Nsaturated and has either a linear chain,   either a branched structure, said composition containing at least one in-   oxidative hair dye intermediate.   5. Oxidizing hair dye composition according to the claim   cation 4, in which the fatty acid is at least one of the stearic acids   that, behenic, arachidic, arachidonic, oleic, linoleic and acidic resinol.   6. Oxidizing hair dye composition according to the claim   tion 4, in which the fatty alcohol is at least one of the lauric, oleic, stearic, isostearic, cetyl, myristylic and beinyl alcohols,   7 Oxidizing hair dye composition according to the claim   cation 4, wherein the alkoxylated alkylphenol is an ethoxylated alkylphenol.   8. oxidizing hair dye composition according to claim 2, in which the fatty acid is at least one of 2532 1 74   stearic, behenic, arachidic, oleic, linoleic and resinol acid, said fatty alcohol being at least one of the lauric, oleic, stearic, isostearic, cetyl, myristylic and beinyl alcohols, the alkoxylated alkylphenol being an ethoxylated nonylphenol and the neutralization of the fatty acid and the adjustment of p H being carried out with ammonium hydroxide. 9. Packaging comprising two containers, the content of these containers being intended to be combined together before use each of said containers containing an aqueous composition, in which:   (a) a container contains an oxy- hair dye composition   which includes: (i) from about 5% to about 10% by weight based on the weight of the contents of the whole of the two containers of a fatty acid   having about 18 to 22 carbon atoms in its mol-   ass; (ii) a sufficient amount of basifying agent to neutralize said fatty acid and establish a p H of approximately 8.5 to approximately 11.5   composition after the two contents of the two re-   containers were mixed; and (iii) from about 1.25% to about 5% of a fatty alcohol having from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms in the molecule; and (b) the other container contains an oxidative hair dye developing composition which comprises: (i) from about 10 to about 15% based on the weight of the content of the assembly of the two containers of at least one alkoxylated alkylphenol having an HLB or more of such phenols having a composite HLB, from about 9 to about 11.5; and (ii) from about 1.5 to about 6% of hair dye oxidant   expressed as absolute hydrogen peroxide.