FR2493143A1 - IMPROVED COMPOSITION AND METHOD FOR HAIR WAVING AND DECREPPING - Google Patents

Abstract

THE OBJECT OF THE INVENTION IS IMPROVED NEUTRALIZING COMPOSITIONS FOR THE HAIR USED IN THE FRAMEWORK OF A COLD WAVING OR DECREPING PROCESS. SUCH A COMPOSITION CONSISTS OF WATER, LESS THAN 3.4 BY WEIGHT OF HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, AND AN EXCESS OF AN ACID THAN THE AMOUNT NECESSARY TO STABILIZE THE PEROXIDE; TO IMPROVE STABILITY, OTHER STABILIZERS MAY BE INCORPORATED.

Description

Chemical compositions are known for use

  tion in permanent or cold corrugations and for

  hair straightening. Among these compositions, we must

  tion alkaline compositions which contain a bisul-

  fite and / or a sulfite, as described for example in U.S. Patent 3,864,476. The compositions based on bisulfites and / or sulfites for treating the hair must be distinguished from the waving and / or decrepping compositions based on other compounds such as thioglycollic acid and thiols, When waving hair or when or makes a decreparation using sulfite-based compositions or

  of alkali bisulfites, in particular, of the linkages of

  fre and sulfur-hydrogen as well as various other liai-

  salt tones in the hair are broken by contact with the wavy or peeling composition. To restore broken bonds in the new hair position

  wavy or peeled and thus obtain a blocking and a stabilization

  of the hair, compounds are frequently used

  oxidizing, for example of the type containing hydrogen peroxide. Oxidizing compositions of this kind are

  sometimes called "neutralizing agents".

  It is known that the aforementioned peroxide compositions are unstable and it has therefore been proposed to incorporate traces

  an acid, for example 0.1% by weight or even less acid

  of citriq-.eou or 0.005% by weight or even less of phosphoric acid to stabilize the composition. The acid stabilized peroxidized composition, which is obtained in this way,

  has an apparent pH of 3.0 to 5.0.

  Special mention should be made of the compounds

  tions described in US Patent 3,864,476 which teaches

  gnements are incorporated by reference in this application and in which a bisulfite solution has been described

  alkaline for waving and straightening the hair.

  The bisulfite composition which is described in this US Pat. No. 3,864,476 leaves an alkaline residue on

  hair, residue which is not always removed by the milk

  subsequently with the hydrogen peroxide compositions.

  Alkaline carbonate 0.6 8.2 Alcanolamine 1.7 - 9.8

Water q.sp. 100 games.

  The incorporation of one or more wetting agents is re-

  controlled to lower the surfactant effect of the solution

  and enhance the absorption of active ingredients by che-

  want. Materials of this kind are well known to specialists.

  specialists and include, without limitation, the mono-

  sorbitan laurate and lauryl ethers of polyoxyethyl

  lene, gelatin, polyoxyethylene monostearate,

  polyethylene glycol monostearate, triethanola oleate-

  lead, polyoxyethylene-alkylphenol, alkyl-aryl ether of polyoxethylene, cocamide DEA, C21-dicarboxylate

  DEA, DEA dodecylbenzenesulfonate, acyl-amido-glycine-

  betalne, etc. An example of a suitable material which

  is commercially available is "TRIToN X-102", an alkyla-

  ryl-polyoxy-alcohol from Rohmi and Haas Company.

  The wetting agent is preferably used in combination with

  sound about 0.1 to 3.5 parts relative to the total weight

of the solution.

  The compositions described have a pH of between 8 and 12.5 and a sulfur dioxide content of between 1.9 and 13.0 parts by weight.

  It is also possible to incorporate into the on-solution.

  other ingredients known for the uses for which they are usually intended. We will quote

  in this category of flavoring agents, colo-

  rants, thixotropic agents, conditioning agents

  scalp or hair, conferring agents

  a slippery character to the hair, agents of opacifica-

tion, stabilizers, etc.

  The neutralizing composition is prepared according to the instructions.

  vention by dissolving hydrogen peroxide and acid in water, preferably in deionized water, to form the solution. As explained above, the quantity

  acid varies according to the nature of the acid used and the deter-

  Mining is easy by a simple routine test. The con-

  The concentration in hydrogen peroxide also varies between the composition for waving and straightening the hair for use in the process according to the invention is an aqueous composition containing an alkaline sulfite and /

or any alkaline bisulfite.

  The sulfites and / or bisulfites can be chosen from the materials commonly used for this purpose and it is preferred to choose them from certain compounds such as sodium bisulfite (NaHS03), potassium metabisulfite (K2S205), ammonium bisulfite ( NH4HSO3) and bisulfite

  potassium (KHS03). These isolated compounds can be used.

  ment or together with a sulfite, such as the sulfite of so-

  dium (Na2SO3) or potassium sulfite (K2S03) in quality

  additional sources of sulfur dioxide for con-

  tribute to the establishment of the desired ripple or eff-

fet sought for scouring.

  The alkali borate is generally sodium borate

or potassium.

  The alkali carbonate is usually the carbon

  nate or bicarbonate or a carbonate / bicarbonate mixture

sodium and potassium.

  As examples of alkanolamines which can be used in the undulation and decrepping composition, the following compounds may be mentioned without limitation:

  monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, triethyl-

  lenetretramine and triisopropanolamine or combinations of

these compounds.

  The same composition is suitable for waving

hair and for straightening.

  In general, the ingredients of the wave solution

  lation and decreparation vary widely between some

  some preferred limits. An example is given below

  possible ranges of active ingredients for on-

  dulation based on an alkali bisulfite or an alkali sulfite

  linen, but this is by no means a limiting example.

  Ingredients Parts by weight Bisulfite and / or sulfite salts (expressed as sulfur dioxide) 1.9 - 13.00 Alkaline borate 0.6 - 8.2

  The amount of acid to adjust the apparent pH to a.

  value from 2.0 to 3.0 varies depending on the particular acid used

  read. Any mineral and / or organic acid may be used provided that it is compatible with hydrogen peroxide and does not cause decomposition

  of the last. For example, a half acid can be used.

  mineral such as phosphoric acid and / or hydrochloric acid

  that and / or organic acids such as citric acid

and / or benzo! que.

  In the preferred embodiment of the invention

  tion, the acid is citric acid, phosphoric acid or a mixture of both. When using only citric acid, about 0.2 to 1.0% of the total weight of the peroxidized solution is usually used. If the only acid is phosphoric acid, a

  proportion of 0.004 to approximately 0.08% relative to the total weight

  tal of the peroxidized solution is normally used. The apparent pH of the neutralization solutions containing an excess of acid as explained above is between 2.0

and 3.0.

  It is also envisaged to incorporate non-acid stabilizing compounds, such as, for example, acetophenedetine.

  (phenacetin), in the neutralization solution for

  fer a stability supplement with hydrogen peroxide

  without any contrary effect on the other objectives of the

  vention, With the use of a single acid, the apparent pH of

  the composition is between 2.0 and 3.0. When we take

  uses more than one acid, their cumulative effect makes it possible to establish

  also an apparent pH of 2.0 to 3.0.

  The compositions described are used in a

  process of cold waving or straightening of the hair.

  We begin by treating the hair in the conventional manner with a composition of bisulfite and / or alkaline sulfite and

  then the acid composition of hyoxide peroxide is applied

  drogen that has just been described on the hair for in fact

  to neutralize and achieve the overwhelming advantages

nants that have been discussed.

  In addition, the wet combing characteristics and the power to maintain ripples as well as the peeling as well as the protection against possible damages.

  are sometimes not as good as you would like and treat it

  hydrogen peroxide tends to whiten and therefore deco-

brown the hair.

  Consequently, the main objects of the invention are: - to create a process making it possible to obtain loops

  a tighter permanent ripple and a longer

  for a longer duration as well as for long, untangled hair, using a hair treatment composition based on alkali bisulfite and / or alkaline sulfite; - to reduce the degree of lightening of the color of the hair, to improve the combing characteristics

  in the wet and reduce the amount of residual alkali

  both on the hair after treatment with an alkali bisulfite and / or alkali sulfite composition, which is followed by treatment with a neutralizing agent containing less than 3.4% by weight of -H 2 O 2;

  - improve the luster of the hair after milking -

  with an alkali bisulfite and / or sulphite composition

  alkaline fite followed by treatment with a neutralizing agent containing less than 3.4% by weight of H2O2; - to produce an improved neutralization composition

  based on hydrogen peroxide for use with a compound

  hair treatment position based on an alkaline bisulfite and / or an alkaline sulfite, composition which contributes to achieving the improved properties mentioned above; and - to achieve other objectives which will emerge from the

  description which follows and examples.

  Briefly, the composition according to the invention is

  an aqueous solution containing less than 3.4% by weight of pe-

  hydrogen oxide and an acid that is present in a proportion

  tion greater than the maximum necessary to only stabilize

the solution.

  The apparent pH of the neutralization composition

  based on hydrogen peroxide is between 2.0 and 3.0.

  wide limits. However, a peroxide concentration of between 0.65 and 3.4% by weight or as described in patent application US 107,746, filed, is preferred.

  December 26, 1979 in the name of the same Applicant.

  The apparent pH of the hydrogen peroxide solution in the range of 0.65 to 3.4% H 202 by weight is

  normally between about 4 and 5. With the acid sup-

  necessary to stabilize the pero- solution

  xyde, the apparent pH is between 3.0 and 5.0. With

  excess acid added, the peroxide solution is characterized

  laughed at by an apparent pH below 3.0 and normally

  taken between 2 and 3, for example when measured using

  of a standardized instrument for measuring pH at 220C.

  In practice, the invention can be implemented.

  tion by the preferred techniques below.

  When you want to remove the hair,

can use the following process.

  We start by washing the hair thoroughly with a

  shampoo or soap. You can use a soap or sham-

  any classic fist, then dry the hair, by

example with towels.

  Apply to the hair, - & using a comb,

  an alkaline solution containing bisulphites and / or sulphites

  fites, of the type described above, the duration of this combing ranging from 30 to 120 minutes, or else the hair is rolled up on large format curlers for the same duration and

  after that the hair is rinsed with ordinary water.

  Immediately after rinsing, the neutralization product is applied to the hair. According to the invention, the neutralization product comprises an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide and an excess of acid. The hydrogen peroxide solution is left in contact with the hair for a period of 5 to 10 minutes. If the hair is not on curlers for straightening, we prefer during this period

  comb the hair occasionally to ensure repair

  adequate neutralization agent. We remove in-

  immediately by rinsing with water the hydro- peroxide solution

  gene and we dry the hair without styling, using

for example a dryer.

  When we want a wave or crimp we

can proceed as follows.

  We start by washing the hair with a shampoo or soap and dry as described above. The treatment solution which contains the bisulfites and / or the sulfites is introduced into the hair by combing. After wetting as indicated, wicks are wrapped around rods for perms, curlers or special ankles of any conventional model. The hair is dried with an additional quantity of the bisulfite solution and /

  or sulfite. We put on a plastic cap

  that and the hair thus wavy and covered is now

  naked for a period ranging from 15 to 90 minutes, depending on the

  characteristics of the hair and the desired degree of fri-

  wise or wavy. You can shorten this period of time if you apply heat to the hair, for example

  using a dryer, to speed up the process. The applica-

  heat normally reduces the processing time

  stop. Once this period is over, the cheeks are rinsed

  want to water while they are still on the rods or curlers. We dab the hair to dry it using

  with a towel and apply the hydrogen peroxide solution

  drogenic. This solution is left for 5 to 10 minutes to allow stabilization. After that we remove the

  curlers and rinse the hair, dry and style

  according to the desired style. For less tight curls, the neutralizing agent can be applied after removing the curlers, then rinse the hair, dry and style

according to the desired style.

  In the preferred embodiments of the method

  according to the invention, before treatment with the desired agents

  neutralization res, the hair is brought into contact with a solution of cold waving or detangling based on a sulfite and / or alkaline sulfite, characterized by a sulfur dioxide content of approximately 1.9 to 13, 0 and a pH of 8.0

at 12.5.

  The following examples, in which the parts and percentages are by weight, serve to illustrate

  the invention without in any way limiting its scope.

EXAMPLE 1

  Ripple and decreation solutions are prepared

  page of the hair having the compositions below.

COMPOSITION A

  Ingredients Parts Sodium bisulfite 6.46 Sodium borate 4.10 Sodium carbonate 4.10 Monoethanolamine 4.92 Diethanolamine 4.92 Wetting agent 1.00 Deionized water q.s.p. 100 games

COMPOSITION B

  Ingredients Parts Sodium bisulphite 9.69 Sodium borate 3.23 Sodium carbonate 2.16 Monoethanolamine 5.90 Diethanolamine 1.57 Deionized water q.s.p. 100 parts For waving virgin hair (untreated) for example, one of the indicated solutions can be combed into the hair for a few minutes after washing it. Once the hair has been thoroughly wetted by this technique, it is rolled up on curlers and wetted with additional amounts of

the solution.

  We leave the hair on the curlers for

  about 45 to 60 minutes, then rinse with water while keeping

  before curlers and dab with a towel to dry. The actual durations of the treatments vary of course between wide limits depending on the type of hair. After towel drying, either of the two neutralization solutions below can be used. We use the

  neutralization product C after treatment with the compound

  ripple and leveling A and we use the

  neutralization solution D after treatment with the

  ripple and peel-off position B. Solution C Hydrogen peroxide 1.3% Citric acid 0.5% Phosphoric acid 0.0064% Deionized water q.s. p. 100% pH 2.84 + 0.1 Solution D Hydrogen peroxide 1.7% Citric acid 0.5% Phosphoric acid 0.0064% Deionized water q.s. 100% pH 2.84 + 0.1 The hydrogen peroxide solution is left in contact with the hair for 5 to 10 minutes. We remove the curlers, rinse the hair with water, dry and

headdress according to the chosen style.

  It should be noted that the curls have excellent quality of tightening which lasts for 45 days or longer depending on the type of hair. On the other hand, the hair does not undergo any notable change in color at

  following this treatment or, for certain types of che-

  want, the color change is less than what you would expect after such a treatment, and we do not

  finds no noticeable damage to the hair.

  For comparison, the same process is repeated except that the hydrogen peroxide solutions contain a

  total of 0.0064% phosphoric acid with a pH of 3.5, that is

  ie a stabilizing amount but not in excess. We cons-

  tate that, in comparison with the method according to the invention, the hair is not as easy to comb when it is

  wet, the loops obtained are less tight and we cons-

  has a slight discoloration. In addition, the hair thus treated contains a higher proportion of residual alkalinity which can cause after a certain time a

  more marked damage to the hair.

EXAMPLE 2

  We proceed as in Example 1, except that we use

  read a solution having the following composition for the sta-

  of neutralization in combination with composition A. Hydrogen peroxide 1.5% Citric acid 0.5% Phosphoric acid 0.0026% Deionized water q.s.p. 100% We obtain substantially the same results as

in example 1.

  It goes without saying that various modifications can be made.

  cations to the modes of implementation which have been described, without

  to go beyond the scope of the invention.

Claims (6)

  1 - Cold corrugation or decrepping process   of the hair, characterized in that a solution is used   aqueous neutralizing tion which contains hydro-   gene and an acid in a proportion higher than the maximum ne-   stop to stabilize said solution.   2 - Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the pH of the neutralizing aqueous solution is between 2.0 and 3.0.   3 - Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the hair is brought into contact before the treatment   by the neutralizing solution, with a solution of undula-   cold or descaling based on an alkali sulfite and / or an alkali bisulfite, said solution containing from 1.9 to 13.0% of sulfur dioxide and having a pH of between 8.0 and 12, 5, then treated with an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide containing an excess of acid chosen from citric acid, phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof. 4 - Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the hair is brought into contact with a solution of cold waving or of unraveling containing a bisulfite.   acid, an alkali borate, an alkali carbonate, an alkano-   laminate and water, then treated with an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide containing an excess of a chosen acid   among citric acid, phosphotic acid and their   swaddling clothes. - Method according to claim 4, characterized   in that the acid used is citric acid and it is   in sufficient proportion to obtain a pH of 2 to 3.   6 - Process according to claim 4, characterized in that the acid used is phosphoric acid and it is incorporated in a sufficient proportion to obtain a pH from 2 to 3.   7 - Neutralizing composition for use in   cold waving or straightening of the hair, characteristic   sée in that it includes water, hydrogen peroxide   and an acid in an amount greater than that required   to stabilize the peroxide, said composition having a pH of 2.0 to 3.0.   8 - Neutralizing solution for use in   cold waving or straightening of hair, characteristic   sée in that it includes the following ingredients: Hydrogen peroxide 1.7% Citric acid 0.5% Phosphoric acid 0.0064% Deionized water q.s. p. 100% 9 - Neutralizing solution for use in   cold waving or straightening of the hair, characteristic   sée in that it comprises the following ingredients Hydrogen peroxide 1.3% Citric acid 0.5% Phosphoric acid 0.003% Deionized water q.s. p. 100% - Neutralizing solution for use in cold waving or straightening hair, characterized in that it comprises the following ingredients: Hydrogen peroxide 1.3% Phosphoric acid 0.084% Deionized water q.s.p. 100% 11 - Neutralizing solution for use in   cold waving or straightening of the hair, characteristic   sée in that it includes the following ingredients: Hydrogen peroxide 1.30% Phosphoric acid 0.084% Phenacetin 0.050% Deionized water q.s. p. 100% 12 - Neutralizing solution for use in   cold waving or straightening of the hair, characteristic   sée in that it includes the following ingredients: Hydrogen peroxide 1.7% Phosphoric acid 0.084% Phenacetin 0.030% Deionized water q.s.p. 100%