GB2086443A - Improved hair waving and straightening composition and method - Google Patents

Abstract

Improved hair neutralizing compositions comprising water, hydrogen peroxide and an acid which is present in an amount in excess of that needed to stabilize are described herein. To enhance stability other conventional stabilizers may be added. These compositions are useful in a process for the cold waving or straightening of hair, yielding improved results including tighter, longer-lasting curls or longer-lasting straight hair as desired, better wet combing, more hair lustre, less hair lightening, less hair damage and less residual alkali.

Description

SPECIFICATION Improved hair waving and straightening composition and method This invention relates to improved hair waving and straightening composition and method.

Chemical preparations of ruse in the permanent or cold waving and straightening of hair are known.

Among these are alkaline compositions containing a bisulphite and/or sulfite compound, such as disclosed in U.S. Patent 3864476. The bisulphite and/or sulfite hair preparations are to be distinguished from waving and/or straightening preparations based on the use of other compounds such as thioglycollic acid and tniols.

When waving or straightening hair with alkaline bisulfite or alkaline sulfite preparations particularly, sulphur and sulphur-hydrogen bonds as well as various salt linkages within the hair are broken upon contact with the waving and straightening preparation. To reestablish the broken bonds in the newly waved or straightened position and thus "lock in" and set the hair, oxidizing preparations such as those containing hydrogen peroxide are often used.

Such oxidizing preparations are sometimes referred to as neutralizers.

The aforementioned peroxide preparations are known to be unstable and it has been proposed to use trace amounts of an acid, e.g., 0.1 percent by weight or less of citric acid or 0.005 percent by weight or less of phosphoric acid, to stabilize the preparation. The acid stabilized peroxide preparation thus described will have an apparent pH of between 3.0 and 5.0.

Special mentioned is made of the compositions disclosed in U.S. Patent 3,864,476, incorporated herein by reference which describes an example of an alkaline bisulfite solution for the waving and straightening of hair.

The bisulfite hair preparation described in U.S.

Patent 3,864,476 leaves an alkaline residue on the hair which is not always removed by subsequent treatment with hydrogen peroxide preparations.

Moreover, the wet combing characteristics and staying power of the curls or straightened hair and the damage prevention are not as good as is sometimes desired and the hydrogen peroxide treatment has a tendency to bleach and thus lighten the hair.

It is an aim of at leastthe preferred forms of the invention; (a) to provide a process for producing tighter and longer-lasting permanent wave curls and longerlasting straightened hair, which makes use of an alkaline bisulfite and/or sulfite hair treating preparation.

(b) to lessen the amount of hair lightening, improve the wet combing characteristics and reduce the amount of residual alkali left on the hair when treated with an alkaline bisulfite and/or sulfite preparation followed by a neutralizer containing less than 3.4% by weight of H2O2.

(c) to improve the lustre of the hairafterthetreat- ment with an alkaline bisulfite and/or sulfite preparation followed by a neutralizer containing less than 3.4% by weight of H2O2.

(d) to provide an improved hydrogen peroxide neutralizing composition for use with an alkaline bisulfite and/or sulfite hair treating preparation which helps to achieve the aforementioned improved properties.

The composition of the invention, briefly described, is an aqueous solution of less than 3.4% by weight hydrogen peroxide and acid which is present in an amount in excess of the maximum needed only to stabilize the solution.

The apparatus pH of the hydrogen peroxide neutralizer preparation will be in the range of 2.0 to 3.0, inclusive. The amount of acid to- adjust the apparatus pH to 2.0 to 3.0, inclusive, will vary depending on the particular acid employed. Any inorganic and/or organic acids which are compatible with, and do not cause decomposition of hydrogen peroxide can be used. For example, an inorganic acid such as phosphoric acid and/or hydrochloric acid and/or organic acids such as citric acid, and/or benzoic acid could be used.

In the preferred embodiment, the acid is citric acid or phosphoric acid, or a mixture of both. When the acid is only citric, amounts of from 0.2 percent by weight to about 1.0 percent by weight, based on the total weight of the peroxide solution, are typical.

When the acid is only phosphoric, amounts of from about .004 percent by weight to about 0.08 percent by weight, based on the total peroxide solution, are typical. The apparent pH of neutralizing solutions containing excess acid as described above is in the range of 2.0 to 3.0, inclusive.

It is also contemplated that additional, non-acid stabilizing compounds, such as acetophenetedin (phenacetin), could be added to the neutralizing solution to give added stability to the hydrogen peroxide without otherwise affecting the objects of this invention.

When a single acid is used, the apparatus pH ofthe hydrogen peroxide preparation will be in the range of 2.0 to 3.0, inclusive. When more than one acid is used, the cumulative effect will also be in the apparent pH range of 2.0 through 3.0.

The foregoing compositions are used in a process for the cold waving or straightening of hair. The hair is first treated conventionally with an alkaline bisulfite and/or sulfite preparation, and thereafter the acidic hydrogen peroxide composition described herein is applied to the hair to effect neutralization and achieve the unexpected benefits described.

The hair curling and straightening composition for use in the process of this invention is an aqueous preparation containing any alkaline sulfite or alkaline bisulfite.

The sulfites and/or bisulfites may be selected from any materials commonly employed for this purpose, and preferably are chosen from among compounds such as sodium bisulfite (NaHSO3), potassium metabisulfite (K2S205), ammonium bisulfite (NH4HSO3) and potassium bisulfite (KHSO3). These may be used alone or together with a sulfite compound, such as sodium sulfite (Na2SO3) or potassium sulfite (K2SO3), as additional sources of sulphur dioxide to help produce the desired waving or straighten ing effect.

The alkali borate constituent is usually sodium borate or potassium borate.

The alkali carbonate constituent is usually sodium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate or potassium carbonate, or mixtures of any of these.

Examples of the aikanolamines which may be used in the hair waving and straightening composition include, but are not limited to: monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, triethylenetetramine and triisopropanolamine or combinations thereof.

The same formulation is suitable for both hair waving and hair straightening.

In general, the ingredients of the hair waving and straightening solution vary widely within certain pre ferred ranges. The following is an example of typical ranges of active ingredients for alkaline bisulfite or sulfite waving solutions but is not meant to be limited to the following: Ingredients Amount, parts by weight Bilsulfite and/or sulfite salts (exprerac as sulphur dioxide) 1.9-13.00 Alkali borate 0.6-8.2 Alkali carbonate 0.6-8.2 Alkanolamine 1.7-9.8 Water to make 100 parts The inclusion of a wetting agent or agents is recommended to lower the surface tension of the solution and enhance the absorption of the active ingredients into the hair shafts.Such materials are known to those skilled in the art and include, illustra- tively, sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyothylene lauryl ethers, gelatin, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyethylene glycol nionostearate, tiethanolamine oleate, polyoxyethylene alkyl phenol, polyox ethylene alkyl aryl ether, cocamide DEA, DEA C2, dicarboxylate, DEA dodecylbenzenesulfonate, acyl amido glycine betaine, and the like. An example of a suitable commercially available material is TRITON X-102, Rohm & Haas Company, an alkylaryl polyether alcohol.

The wetting agent is preferably employed in amounts of from about 0.1 to 3.5 parts by weight, based on the total weight of the solution.

The foregoing compositions are characterized by a pH within the range between 8 and 12.5, and a sulphur dioxide content within the range between 1.9 to 13.0 parts by weight.

Other ingredients, selected from among known materials, may also be included in the hair waving and straightening solution for their conventionally employed purposes. These include fragrances, coloring agents, thixotropic agents, skin or hair conditioners, slip imparting agents, opacifiers, stabilizers, etc.

The neutralizing composition of this invention is prepared by dissolving hydrogen peroxide and the acid in water, preferably deionized water to form the solution. As explained above, the amount of acid will vary depending upon the particular acid employed, and is readily determined with only a small amount of work. The hydrogen peroxide concentration will also vary widely. Preferably, however, a peroxide oncentration within the range between 0.65 and 3.4 percent by weight or as disclosed in copending epplication Serial No. 107,746, filed December 26, i979, is employed.

The apparent pH of the hydrogen peroxide solu tion within the range of .65 and 3.4 percent H2 2 by weight added is normally about 4 to 5. With the addi -itional acid necessary to stabilize the peroxide solu- tion, the apparent pH is within the range of 3.0 to 6.i:.

With the excess acid added the peroide solution is characterized by an apparent pH of less than 3.0 end from 2 to 3, inclusive, e.g., as measured on a stan dard pH meter at 22"C.

In practice, this invention may be carried out by use of the following preferred procedures.

When hair straightening is desired, the following procedure may be employed: The hair is firstthoroughly washed with a sham poo or soap. Any conventional shampoo or soap may be used. Afterwards, the hair is dried, as by towelling.

An alkaline solution containing bisulfite and/or sul- fites, such as described above, is then combed through the hair for a period of from thirty to one hundred and twenty minutes, orthe hair is rolled on "large" curlers for a similar period of time, and the hair is thereafter rinsed with orindary tap water.

Immediately after rinsing, the neutralizer is applied to the hair. in accordance wlli this invention, this neutralizer comprises an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide and an excess amount of acid.

The hydrogen peroxide solution is permitted to 3 remain in contact with the hairfor a period of from five to ten minutes. If the hair is not placed on rollers for straightening, during this period it is preferred to comb the hair occasionally to ensure adequate dis tribution of the neutralizer. The hydrogen peroxide solution is then rinsed away with water and the hair is dried without setting, by use of a hair dryer, for example.

When hair waving or curing is desired, the foliow ing procedure may be employed: The hair is first washed with shampoo or soap and dried as described above. The bisulfite and/or sulfite containing hair treating solution is then combed through the hair. After wetting in this manner, the hair is rolled about permanent wave rods, curlers or pegboards of any conventional design. The hair is then wetted with additional bisulfite and/or sulfite solution. A plastic cap is applied and the hairthus curled and covered is maintained for a period of from fifteen to ninety minutes, depending upon the particular characteristics of the hair and the degree of curl or wave desired. This period may be shor tened by applying heat to the hair, as by a hair dryer, to hasten the process. The application of heat nor mally reduces the processing time required. After this period, the hair is rinsed with water while still in the rods or curlers. The hair is then blotted dry with a towel and the hydrogen peroxide solution is applied.

The peroxide is left on for a period of five to ten minutes, to permit sating to take place. Thereafter, the curlers are removed and the hair is rinsed, dried and styled as desired. For looser curls the neutralizer may be applied after the curlers are removed and then the hair is rinsed, dried and styled as desired.

In preferred embodiments of the process of this invention, before treatment with the described neutralizers the hair is contacted with a cold waving or straightening solution of alkaline sulfite and/or bisulfite characterized by a sulphur dioxide content of about 1.9 to about 13.0 and a pH between 8.0 and 12.5.

The composition, methods and procedures of the invention are further illustrated in the following examples, which are not intended to be limiting.

EXAMPLE 1 Hair waving and straightening solutions having the following compositions are prepared: Composition A Ingredients Amount, parts by weight Sodium bisulfite 6.46 Sodium borate 4.10 Sodium carbonate 4.10 Monoethanolamine 4.92 Diethanolamine 4.92 Wetting agent 1.00 Deionized water sufficient to make 100 COMPOSITION B Ingredients Amount, parts by weight sodium bisulfite 9.69 Sodium borate 3.23 Sodium carbonate 2.16 Monoethanolamine 5.90 Diethanolamine 1.57 Deionized water sufficient to make 100 To wave virgin (unprocessed) hair for example, either of the above solutions would be combed for a few minutes through hair which has been previously washed. After the hair has been thoroughly wetted in this manner, it is rolled about curlers and wetted with additional amounts of the solution.The hair is permitted to remain rolled up in the curlers for a period of about 45-60 minutes, then rinsed with water while the curlers are still on, and blotted dry with a towel. Actual processing times would of course vary depending on hairtypes. After towelling, either of the following two neutralizing solutions would be used. Neutralizer C is used after treatment with waving and straightening c6mposi- tion A, and neutralizer solution D is used after treatmenu with waving and straightening composition B.

Solution C Hydrogen peroxide 1.3% by weight Citric acid 0.5% by weight Phosphoric acid 0.0064% by weight Deionized water Sufficient to make 100% by weight pH 2.84 t 0.1 Solution D Hydrogen peroxide 1.7% by weight Citric acid 0.5% by weight Phosphoric acid 0.0064% by weight Deionized water sufficient to make 100% by weight pH 2.84 + 0.1 The hydrogen peroxide solution is permitted to remain in contact with the hair for a period of from about five to ten minutes. The curlers are then removed and the hair is rinsed with water, dried and styled.

It is observed that the curls have excellent tightness which is retained for a period of 45 days or more depending on hair type. Moreover, the hair has not undergone any noticeable change in color as a result of treatment or for certain types of hair, less color change than would be expected from such treatments, and no noticeable hair damage is observed.

For purposes of comparison, the foregoing procedure is repeated except that the hydrogen peroxide solutions contain only a total of 0.0064% by weight of phosphoric acid with a pH of 3.5, a stabilizing but non-excess amount. It is observed that, in comparison with the procedure according to the invention described above, the hair is not as easy to comb when wet, the curl tightness is inferior and some bleaching has taken place. In addition, hair so treated is observed to contain a higher content of residual alkalinity which could lead to the production of more hair damage over a period of time.

EXAMPLE2 The procedure of Example 1 is repeated, except that a solution having the following composition is employed for the neutralizing step when used with compositions A: Hydrogen peroxide 1.5% by weight Citric acid 0.5% by weight Phosphoric acid 0.0026% by weight Deionized water sufficient to make 100% by weight Substantially the same results as in Example 1 are obtained.

Other modifications and variations of the invention are possible in the light of the description provided. It is to be understood, therefore, that changes may be made in the specific embodiments without departing from the scope and principles of the invention as described in the appended claims and without sacrificing the chief benefits.

Claims (13)

1. A process for the cold waving or straightening of hair, comprising using an aqueous neutralizing solution containing hydrogen peroxide and an acid in an amount in excess ofthe maximum needed to stabilize the solution.

2. The process of Claim 1, in which the pH of the aqueous neutralizing solution is in the range of 2.0 to 3.0.

3. The process of Claim 1, comprising the step of contacting the hair, before treatment with the neut ralizer solution, with a cold waving or straightening solution of alkaline sulfite and/or bisulfite characterized by a sulphur dioxide content of 1.9 to 13.0 and a pH between 8.0 and 12.5 followed by treating with an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide with an excess amount of acid selected from among citric acid, phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof.

4. The process of Claim 1, comprising the steps of contacting the hair with a cold waving or straightening solution containing acidic bisulfite, alkali borate, alkali carbonate, alkanolamine and water, followed by treating with an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide and an excess amount of an acid selected from among citric acid, phosphoric acid and mixtures thereof.

5. The process of Claim 4, in which the acid is citric, present in an amount sufficient to provide a pH of from 2 to 3, inclusive.

6. The process of Claim 4, in which the acid is phosphoric, and present in an amount sufficient to provide a pH of from 2 to 3, inclusive.

7. A neutralizing composition for use in the cold waving or straightening of hair, comprising water, hydrogen peroxide and an acid which is present in an amount in excess ofthe amount needed only to stabilize the peroxide; such composition described being characterized by a pH of from 2.0 to 3.0, inclusive.

8. A neutralizing solution for use in the cold waving or straightening of hair, which comprises: hydrogen peroxide 1.7 percent by weight citric acid 0.5 percent by weight phosphoric acid 0.0064 percent by weight deionized water sufficient to make 100% by weight

9. A neutralizing solution for use in the cold waving or straightening of hair, which comprises: hydrogen peroxide 1.3 percent by weight citric acid 0.5 percent by weight phosphoric acid 0.003 percent by weight deionized water sufficient to make 100% by weight

10. A neutralizing solution for use in the cold waving or straightening of hair, which comprises: hydrogen peroxide 1.3 percent by weight phosphoric acid 0.084 percent by weight deionized water sufficient to make 100% by weight

11. A neutralizing solution for use in the cold waving or straightening of hair, which comprises: hydrogen peroxide 1.30 percent by weight phosphoric acid 0.084 percent by weight phenacetin 0.050 percent by weight deionized water sufficient to make 100% by weight

12. A neutralizing solution for use in the cold waving or straightening of hair, which comprises: hydrogen peroxide 1.7 percent by weight phosphoric acid 0.084 percent by weight phenacetin 0.030 percent by weight deionized water sufficient to make 100% by weight

13. The process of any one of claims 1-6, wherein there is used a neutralising composition according to any one of claims 7 to 12.