FR2475078A1 - Suede-like pile fabric prodn. - by application of high pressure fluid to fabric supported on a rough surface - Google Patents

Abstract

In a method for producing a suede-like surface a pile fabric (26) consisting of fine filaments in the range 0.0001-0.8 denier is passed over a roll (16), which rotates at 1-20 m/min. and has a randomly uneven surface. The fabric is pressed firmly onto roll (16) by rollers (24,22) and while in contact with roll (16) is sprayed with a high-pressure fluid which is supplied from a header source (12) via nozzles (14). The fluid passes through a tube (2) which rotates at 0.1-30 m/min. and which is constituted by a random-mesh element, suitably a metallic, 5-300 mesh element with an opening ratio of 10-80%. The method is used for the production of a material useful as a substitute for natural suede.

Description

 The present invention relates to a method and an apparatus for preparing a woven or knitted pile fabric having the appearance of suede. More specifically, it relates to a method and an apparatus for manufacturing a woven or knitted pile fabric, the pile of which is formed of extremely fine fibers, having a satin beauty similar to that of natural suede and an excellent dragging effect (property of sensitivity to finger marks).

In recent years, artificial leather with the appearance of suede, made of extremely fine fibers, has been developed for the replacement of suede, and the market for this material has been extended by the variety and choice of materials available. used in fashion. Regarding this artificial leather having the appearance of suede, it is known to form a pile fabric by lightly touching the surface of a woven, non-woven or knitted fabric, formed of extremely fine fibers, or by subsequent treatment of the fabric. fur thus produced by application of an elastic polymer such as a polyurethane, etc. The usual artificial leather having the appearance of suede has an excellent drag effect but does not give a beautiful satin appearance specific to natural suede or d '' other words, it lacks a kind of ability to give a three-dimensional feeling represented by shadows and lights and which is the result of an anisotropic or random arrangement of the hairs
Several methods have already been proposed for improving the aesthetic presentation of an artificial leather having the appearance of suede.

 For example, Japanese patent application released to public inspection No. 106 701/76 describes a method of manufacturing an artificial leather having the appearance of suede, carrying on its surface a design giving a three-dimensional feeling, the method comprising the application by printing and the fixing of an aqueous liquid containing polyvinyl alcohol, etc., on the woven or knitted fabric, the impregnation of the fabric with a polyurethane solution intended to ensure solidification on wet state, elution of the water-soluble polymer after the extraction of the solvent from the polyurethane or at the time of this extraction, and the light touching or brushing of the fabric after its drying so that the parts in which the water-soluble polymer is removed are scraped in the form of hairs. However, the three-dimensional drawing produced by implementing this process has very sharp contours and does not give a feeling of three-dimensional beauty formed by shadows and lights due to a anisotropic or random arrangement of hairs as in natural suede.

Japanese patent application released for public inspection No. 12 903/77 describes a process for preparing an artificial leather having the appearance of suede, giving a soft and beautiful presentation of the hairs, this process comprising the impregnation of 1 the pile cloth by an aqueous liquid containing a polymer such as polyvinyl alcohol, etc. having a viscosity greater than 100 cP, the extraction of the liquid from the fabric by pressing, in the appropriate direction (direction of orientation of the pile) with a pressure greater than 105 Pa and the drying of the fabric, then impregnation of the fabric thus treated with a liquid polymer insoluble in water such as a polyurethane, followed by pressing in the desired direction, removal of the aqueous liquid polymer by dissolution at the time of solidification of the polymer insoluble in water or after this solidification, and the light touching or scraping of the pile fabric after drying. In addition, Japanese patent application released to public inspection No. 15 801/77 describes a similar process using only a water-insoluble polymer. However, these processes only allow the formation of a fabric whose hair is oriented uniformly in one direction and does not give a feeling of three-dimensional beauty formed by shadows and lights, due to the anisotropic or random arrangement of the hair as in natural suede.

 The invention is the result of considerable effort relating to the development of a process for preparing a pile fabric having an excellent drag effect as well as a very beautiful appearance of natural suede, and it is based on the discovery that the desired result can be obtained by treating the nude cloth with jets of high pressure liquid.

 A first embodiment of the invention relates to a process for the preparation of a pile fabric having the appearance of suede, comprising holding the reverse side of a pile fabric, having at the place bristles formed of monofilaments having a denier between 0.0001 and 0.8, in intimate contact with the surface of a fabric support device which has a pattern showing a random variation in profile, and the projection of jets of fluid at high pressure on the surface of the fabric carrying the bristles, by means of a material allowing the passage of a fluid and intended to prevent the passage of the fluid partially at random.

 A second embodiment of the invention relates to a process for the preparation of a pile fabric having the appearance of suede comprising the application of a clastic polymer to the pile fabric prepared according to the preceding process. The two aforementioned means of embodiment of the invention are very advantageously used in an apparatus representing a third embodiment of the invention.

More specifically, the third embodiment of the invention relates to an apparatus for preparing a pile fabric having the appearance of suede, the apparatus comprising (1) a fabric support device intended to ensure the passage of the pile fabric in intimate contact with its surface which has a random variation in profile, (2) a nozzle placed above the fabric support device and intended to project jets of high pressure fluid onto the pile fabric, and (3) a material allowing the passage of a fluid, placed halfway between the fabric support device and the nozzle, this material having parts preventing the passage of a fluid, arranged randomly on a part of the surface only so that they prevent the passage of the fluid so that the flow of the fluid at high pressure is carried out randomly.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will be better understood on reading the description which follows of examples of embodiment and with reference to the appended drawings in which
- Figures lA, lB, 1C and 1D are diagrams showing various profile variations presented by the surface of the fabric support device used according to the invention
- Figure 2 is a schematic side elevation of an example of an advantageous device used according to the invention
- Figure 3 is a front elevation of the fabric support device
- Figure 4 is a front elevation showing the material which allows the passage of a fluid
- Figure 5 is a front elevation of a high pressure fluid distributor; and
- Figures 6 and 7 show in perspective sections of hollow composite fibers and their section, these fibers allowing the preparation of extremely fine fibers during the manufacture of a pile fabric according to the invention.

 The support device used according to the invention is prepared in the form of a plate or a cylinder and is intended to support the fabric to be treated with a high pressure fluid. The material used for the support device can be a metal such as stainless steel, copper, iron, steel, iron or nickel-plated steel, etc., aluminum, etc., a plastic material. such as polyester resin, melamine resin, epoxy resin, phenolic resin, etc., rubber such as polychloroprene, polyurethane, etc.

or a ceramic. A cylindrical fabric support device made of a metal is particularly advantageous. Projecting parts and recessed parts are formed randomly so that they give a variation in profile to the surface of the support device. The latter can present any type of profile variation, in particular having very diverse configurations such as represented by the schematic sections of FIGS. 1A, 1B, 1C and 1D, going from acute profiles to rounded profiles.

It is very advantageous for the configuration of the projecting parts and the hollow parts to have a section which is not too sharp as shown in FIGS. 1C and 1D.

The arrangement of the profiles should preferably be such that the difference in heights between the convex parts and the concave parts is between 0.5 and 10 mm and the number of projecting parts is between 1 and 100 per surface element. 25 cm2, the number of recessed parts being similarly between 1 and 2,100 per 25 cm surface element, all these parts being distributed randomly. The manufacture of a fabric support device having a random arrangement of protruding parts and recessed parts on its surface is achieved for example by implementing a method of manufacturing a cylindrical support device comprising the preparation of a plaster mold, the formation of a master cylinder by etching, according to the plaster mold, the transfer by pressing of the design of the mother cylinder obtained on the surface of a seamless drawn steel tube, by implementing a process for manufacturing a cylinder support device ic or in the form of a plate, formed of a plastic material or a metal, by precision molding using a plaster mold, by implementing a process for preparing a device cylindrical fabric support by direct etching of a drawing having a profile variation on the surface of a seamless drawn steel tube, or by implementing a process for preparing a support device in plate form, by forming a rubbery material, at high pressure and temperature, using a mold having a design having variations in profile.

 When the fabric support device is in the form of a plate, it is used in cooperation with a belt conveyor. The pile fabric is treated with high pressure fluid jets when the fabric maintained in intimate contact with the irregular profile surface of the support device is transported on the belt conveyor. When the support device is cylindrical in shape, it is used as a cylinder and the pile fabric is treated with jets of high pressure fluid as it passes over the irregular profile surface of the cylinder. It is advantageous for the speed of passage of the fabric to be between 1 and 20 m / min.

 The material allowing the passage of a fluid, used according to the invention, can for example be a metallic fabric or a metallic or plastic plate having perforations. When a metallic fabric is used as a material allowing the passage of a fluid, the parts which prevent the passage of the fluid can be formed thereon, partially and in a random manner, by sealing the meshes using partially welded metal parts. and randomly. When using a metal or plastic plate, one can for example use a method in which fluid passage openings having randomly varying configurations are cut, the rest of the plate metallic or plastic forming the materials preventing the passage of the fluid, partially and randomly. It is preferable from the point of view of the convenience of the realization, that the wire mesh has meshes of 0.072 to 5.4 mm. It is advantageous that the ratio of the section of passage of the material allowing the passage of the fluid according to the invention or the ratio of the parts allowing the passage of the fluid to the total surface of the material is between 10 and 80% or more and preferably between 20 and 60%.

 The high pressure fluid used according to the invention can be, for example water, steam or compressed air at high pressure. When using water as a high pressure fluid, the pressure should preferably be set to a value between 105 and 107 Pa and preferably between 2.106 and between Pa. Your water temperature may be between 10 and 80 C. When using steam; it is advantageous that the pressure is adjusted between 105 and 6.105 Pa, and it is very advantageous that it is regulated between 2.105 and 4.105 Pa. The steam is used at a temperature of between 120 and 1800 C. In the case of air, the pressure is preferably set between 2.105 and 106 Pa and preferably between 4.105 and 6.105 Pa. Air is used at a temperature between 20 and 200 C. According to the invention, advantageously is used water or high pressure steam. It is advantageous if the nozzle of a nozzle has a conical shape or a sector so that the fluid can be projected in the form of a conical spray or having the shape of a sector.

The impact pressure applied by the pressurized fluid to the pile fabric when the fluid strikes the surface of the fabric is preferably between 3.107 and 5.108 Pa. It is preferable, for obtaining this effect, that the distance between the nozzle spout and the pile fabric is maintained between 0.5 and 50 cm and the distance between the nozzle spout and the material allowing the passage of the fluid to be between 0.3 and 30 cm .

The speed of the high pressure fluid transmitted at the nozzle nozzle is preferably between 30 and 120 m / s in the case of water, between 400 and 900 m / s in the case of water vapor and between 200 and 600 m / s in the case of air. The flow rate is preferably between 1200 and 6000 cm3 / s per nozzle in the water box, between 0.1 and 1 g / s per nozzle in the case of water vapor and between 0.01 and 0, 1 m3 / min per nozzle in the case of air.

According to the invention, when a high pressure fluid is sprayed at the location (that is to say on the surface having the appearance of suede) of a pile fabric whose reverse <is i.e. the surface which does not take on the appearance of suede) is kept in intimate contact with the surface of random profile of the support device, the impact pressure applied by the high pressure fluid on the pile fabric varies randomly as a function of variations in the profile of the surface of the support device. Furthermore, according to the invention, the flow rate of the high pressure fluid which is sprayed varies randomly during the passage through the material allowing the passage of the fluid but which partially and randomly prevents this passage, so that the fluid Strikes the pile surface of the fabric irregularly. According to the invention, the two abovementioned functions cooperate and thus ensure the orientation of the pile on the surface of the pile fabric in an entirely random manner so that the random pattern of hairs giving shadows and lights of great three-dimensional beauty is formed very effectively.

The invention is now considered in more detail with reference to the drawings. Figure 2 is a schematic side elevation of an example of an advantageous device used according to the invention. The reference 2, in FIG. 2, designates the cylindrical material allowing the passage of a fluid, formed of a metallic fabric whose meshes are partially and randomly closed, this cylindrical material cooperating with pinions 4 arranged on the side and else. The reference 6 designates driving pinions which are engaged with the pinions 4 places on either side of the material allowing the passage of the fluid, and a pulley 8 is fixed to the pinions me nants. The reference 10 designates a guide support and the reference 12 a high pressure fluid distributor. The high pressure fluid is transmitted to the distributor by a reserve of high pressure fluid (not shown) and the fluid is sprayed by several nozzles 14 The reference 16 d6- signs a cylinder forming a cylindrical support device for stuffing, itself formed of a metal, and having on its surface a design having random variations in profile. Pulleys 18 and 20 are mounted on a first side of the cylinder, the louse 18 driving the cylinder by cooperation with a motor device (not shown in the drawing) and the pulley 20 cooperates with the pulley 8 of the pinion driving me 6. The latter does not necessarily work in cooperation with the cylinder 16, and their speed and their direction of rotation can be different. The references 22 and 24 designate guide rollers which keep the cloth 26 nude in intimate contact with the surface of the device 16 fabric support (cy cylinder)
ta Figure 3 is a front elevation of the fabric support device 16 (cylinder). A pattern 28 having profile variations is formed on the surface of the support device. Figure 4 is a front elevation of the material 2 allowing the passage of the fluid. This material has on its surface parts 30 which prevent the passage of the fluid, arranged randomly over a part of the surface.

More than two wire cloths can be stacked so that they form a material allowing the passage of the fluid and having a greater mechanical resistance. Figure 5 is a front elevation of the distributor 12 of high pressure fluid. This distributor is intended to move in translation (vertically in FIG. 2) under the control of a crank mechanism 32, inside the material allowing the passage of a fluid.

As shown in Figure 2, the pile fabric 26 reaches the left side, the pile surface (that is to say the place or surface to be treated so that it has the appearance of natural suede) finding upwards while the back (the surface which does not have to be treated to take on the appearance of natural suede) comes into intimate contact with the surface having the profile variations formed on the support device 16 (cylinder ), placed between the guide rollers 22 and 24. When the reverse side of the pile fabric is in intimate contact with the surface exhibiting the variations in profile of the support cylinder, the fluid at high pressure is sprayed in the form of jets by the nozzles 14 towards the surface of the fabric which includes the hairs, via the master 2 which allows the passage of the fluid. When it undergoes this treatment by the jets, the surface of the fabric which carries the hairs takes a pattern of shadows and lights giving a three-dimensional feeling of beauty given the random orientation of the pile of the fabric, then it is pulled to the right in Figure 2, it can be dried if necessary, and it is rolled up. The fabric thus treated can then directly undergo the following operation of applying a plastic polymer, without having to be wound.

 It is advantageous that the material 2 allowing the passage of a fluid, in cylindrical form, has a circumferential speed of between 0.1 and 30 m / min and that the fabric support device 16 (cylinder) has a circumferential speed between 1 and 20 m / min. In addition, it is advantageous for the distributor 12 of high pressure fluid to have a reciprocating movement, inside cylindrical material 2, the frequency of which is between 1 and 400 reciprocating movements per minute.

 The pile fabric according to the invention is a woven, knitted or non-woven fabric or a fabric formed of a combination, having a pile formed of extremely fine fibers whose denier is between 0.0001 and 0.8.

A pile fabric formed of extremely fine fibers can be prepared by implementing various methods already known, some of which, given purely for information, are as follows:
(1) a process which comprises the preparation of a fabric from extremely fine fibers obtained by the use of a known super-stretching process or by a high-speed spinning process, and the scraping of a face the fabric thus obtained or both, using a conventional scraping machine, for example an "Enery" machine, carded, with metallic wires, or a cylinder sandblasting machine, having a paper or a fabric emery.

(2) a process which comprises the preparation of a fabric using composite fibers containing more than two polymers, the fibers being able to be separated into their constituent polymers in the form of extremely fine fibers, by carrying out a process mechanical, and the scraping of one side of the fabric thus prepared or both with a conventional scraping machine (as described for example in British Patent No. 1,454,241 and in State Patent
States of America No. 4,051,287).

(3) a process which comprises preparing a fabric using composite fibers of the inclusion type or fibers spun in the form of a mixture of two or more polymers, the formation of extremely fine fibers formed by the constituents inclusions, the continuous component being removed, and scraping off one or both sides of the fabric with a conventional scraping machine (as described, for example, in US Pat. Nos. 3,424,604,3 705 226 and 3 865 678)
The pile fabric according to the invention can be prepared by implementing the method described in Japanese patent application No. 106 292/77 and which comprises the preparation of a fabric from tubular composite fibers in which constituents removed axially, formed of polyester or polyamide, and polystyrene constituents, in total number from 16 to 96, are arranged side by side, being alternated in the form of a layer forming a single loop having a hollow part in the center, dissolving and removing the components based on polystyrene so that the components based on polyester or polyamide remain in the form of extremely fine fibers, and scraping off one or both sides using a conventional machine scraping.

 The denier of monofilaments of extremely fine fibers is between 0.0001 and 0.8 and preferably between 0.01 and 0.5. When the denier is less than 0.0001, the abrasion and crumbling resistance of the surface of the pile fabric is not good. When the denier exceeds 0.8, the feel of the fabric tends to be rough so that the feel of the suede is difficult to obtain.

The olymers used for the preparation of extremely fine fibers are preferably polyesters such as polyethylene terephthalate, and polyamides such as "Nylon" 6 and "Nylon" 66.

The pile fabric formed by implementing the invention has the elegant beauty of natural suede and more precisely has a pattern of shadows and lights giving a particular three-dimensional feeling of beauty due to the random orientation of the hairs, as well that an excellent dragging effect given the extremely fine fibers that form the hairs.

 According to the invention, when the pile fabric treated with a spray of high pressure liquid receives an elastic polymer, the hairs randomly oriented are fixed to the base so that the durability of the pattern of shadows and lights giving the feeling of three-dimensional beauty is better. The pile fabric which has thus received an elastic polymer also has excellent properties of repulsive elasticity and resistance to wrinkling.

Accordingly, the application of an elastic polymer to the pile fabric which is treated by high pressure liquid sprays is a particularly favorable feature of the invention.

 The elastic polymers can be natural rubber and synthetic elastic polymers such as the acrylonitrile-butadiene copolymer, polychloroprene, styrene-butadiene copolymer, polybutadiene, polyisoprene, ethylene-propylene copolymer, acrylate copolymers, silicones. , polyurthane, polyacrylate, polyvinyl acetate, polyvinyl chloride, a polyester-polyether block copolymer, or a copolymer of ethylene and vinyl acetate. Among these materials, polyurethane is the most advantageous.

According to the invention, it is also advantageous that the process used is such that a urethane prepolymer is applied to the pile fabric which undergoes a heat treatment ensuring the formation of the polyurethane in the pile fabric itself.

 An elastic polymer is applied to the pile fabric in the form of a solution or more precisely of a solution prepared with an organic solvent, of an aqueous solution of the elastic polymer, or of an aqueous emulsion. The application process involves operations such as immersion of the pile fabric in the solution, coating and spraying, but immersion of the fabric in the solution is preferable for uniformity of the material. application of the elastic polymer to the fabric. During immersion and spraying, it is preferable that the solution of the elastic polymer has a concentration of 1 to 50% by weight. When coating, it is preferable that the elastic polymer solution has a concentration of 5 to 50% by weight. The amount of elastic polymer (dry weight) to be applied to the pile fabric is determined from 'final application of the fabric; however, it is advantageous that the amount of elastic polymer is between 1 and 50% by weight of the pile fabric, and it is preferable that this amount be adjusted between 3 and 20% by weight. After the application of an elastic polymer, it solidifies in the pile cloth, using a known method of wet or dry type.

When using a urethane prepolymer, it is preferable that it is a heating activated prepolymer having one or more isolated i.socyanate groups blocked by bisulfite groups, in particular a prepolymer having 10 to 40% by weight of oxyethylene groups in the molecule, as described in Japanese patent applications submitted to public inspection no 108 395/75 and 155 794/75. Such a urethane prepolymer is applied to the pile fabric in the form of an aqueous solution or emulsion. Then, the pile fabric is dried and subjected to a heat treatment at a temperature between 100 and 1800C for a time between 10 s and 15 min. After this heat treatment, the urethane prepolymer present in the fabric hair releases the bisulfite which blocks the isc'cyanate groups and regenerates the active isocyanate groups, with formation of a polyurethane as a result of a self-crosslinking reaction
The pile fabric according to the invention can be dyed or printed by implementing a conventional process, before treatment with jets of high pressure fluid. when the base of the bristles must be fixed by applying an elastic polymer to the pile fabric, the latter can be dyed or printed after the application of the polymer. The pile fabric which has undergone the treatment with the jets of fluid at high pressure or after the application of an elastic polymer, is subjected to a touching and / or brushing operation and in addition to a straightening process by implementing conventional operations, if necessary. Furthermore, according to the invention, the pile fabric can be treated so that it has water-repellent, waterproofing, stain resistance, antistatic, polishing, flame retardant, self-extinguishing, etc.

 We now consider examples of implementation of the invention, in more detailed form.

EXAMPLES 1 TO 4 - Preparation of a fabric for
hair.

Hollow composite filaments are prepared by implementing the method described in the patent for
United States of America No. 4,051,287 from polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.62 (measured at 350C in orthochlorophenol) and poly-e-caproamide with an intrinsic viscosity of 1.30 ( measured at 350C in metacresol), with the polyester constituents and the polyamide constituents in total number equal to 16, placed side by side alternately, in the form of a loop so that the whole forms a tubular body arranged along the longitudinal axis of the filament as shown in Figure 6.

In FIG. 6, the reference 34 designates the hollow composite filament, the reference 36 the polyamide constituents (poly-C-caproamide), the reference 38 the polyester constituents (polyethylene terephthalate), and the reference 40 the hollow part.

 In the hollow composite fiber represented in FIG. 6, the ratio of the total weight of the polyamide constituents to that of the polyester constituents is 1/1, and the individual segments of the constituents have a denier of 0.23 whereas that of the composite fiber hollow is 3.7. The recess ratio, that is to say the ratio of the section of the cavity to the total section of the segments formed by the polyamide constituents, of the segments formed by the polyester constituents and of the cavity, is equal to 8 t .

The weft yarn is a simple filament yarn formed from multifilaments of hollow composite fibers (denier equal to 300, 80 filaments) having an S twist index of 120 rpm. The warp yarn is a doubled filamentary yarn (denier equal to 200) comprising woolly yarns (with false twist) of denier equal to 100 and to 24 filaments, formed of polyethylene terephthalate and having an S twist index of 150 tr / m.

A satin weave fabric with a notch of 4 is prepared from the above-mentioned weft and warp threads, having a weaving density of 28 warps per centimeter and 20 wefts per centimeter.

 The resulting fabric undergoes relaxation in a hot water bath at a temperature of 980C for 30 min and then drying at 1200C for 3 min.

A lubricant, consisting essentially of mineral oil, is applied to the dried fabric. Next, a surface of the fabric is scraped 15 times in a wire scraping machine comprising 33 threads per unit, with a feed speed of 30 m / min. The scraped tissue is then thermally fixed beforehand at a temperature of 1700C for 30 s, using a thermal fixing apparatus with needle spreader. The average denier of the filaments of the bristles of the resulting scraped fabric is 0.23, and the average denier of the monofilaments of the wefts of the scuffed fabric is 0.45.

Then, this scraped fabric having subsequent prior fixing is dyed at 1300C for 60 min in an aqueous dye bath containing, relative to the weight of the fabric, 4% of blue dye "Duranol Blue G" (Color
Index No. 63,305, trademark of a dispersed dye produced by ICI), 0.2 cm3 / 1 of acetic acid and 1 g / l of a dispersing agent essentially formed by a condensation product of naphthalenesulfonic acid with formamide. The pile fabric is then soaped with an aqueous solution containing a nonionic detergent at a temperature of 800C for 20 min and then it is dried at a temperature of 1200C for 3 min.

Treatment with high fluid jets
pressure.

 The pile fabric obtained is then subjected to a treatment with jets of fluid according to the method described with reference to FIG. 2.

 Plaster molds are prepared having variations in profile corresponding to the drawing in FIGS. 1A, 1B, 1C and 1D, and then four pieces of master cylinder are engraved. The drawings of these cylinders, thus obtained, are transferred by pressing onto seamless drawn steel tubes having a diameter of 35 cm and a length of 60 cm, so that they form four cylindrical fabric support devices. Iron cores are welded at both ends of these cylindrical support devices so that they form cylinders.

 The pile fabric thus obtained, the underside of which (the surface having no bristles) is kept in intimate contact with the surface of the cylinder (rotating at a speed of 2 rpm) advances at a speed of 2 m / min and, during this time, it undergoes treatment with water jets forming the fluid at high pressure of 2.106 Pa, at a temperature of 200C. The material allowing the passage of the fluid is a cylindrical metallic fabric having 5.4 mm meshes which are closed partially and randomly by welding of metallic pieces having various designs, so that the ratio of the parts allowing the passage of the fluid to the total area is 30%. The distance between the nozzle of the projection nozzle and the material allowing the passage of the fluid is 2 cm, the speed of the water at high pressure is 61.4 m / s, and the flow rate is 2892 cm3 / min and by nozzle.

An experiment is carried out with the four fabric support devices and the appearance of the pile fabric obtained is examined with the naked eye. The results are shown in Table I.

This table I shows that particularly good results are obtained when the design of the fabric support device does not have details showing a variation in net angle profile (as indicated in FIGS. 1C and 1D).

TABLE I
Drawing of the variations Appearance of the pile fabric in profile of the device- Character Shaping Sharpness of the Evaluation tif random support of the drawing collective drawing * 1 * 2 * 3 * 4 example 1 figure 1A AAC BC example 2 figure 1B AABB example 3 figure 1C A AB A AB example 4 figure 1D AAAA
Notes from Tables I to V:: the randomness of the patterns of shadows and lights formed on the surface of the pile fabric.

A: excellent randomness
B: a slight regularity appears in the drawings
C: the regularity noted in the drawings is considered
ble * 2: the shaping of the shadow and light patterns formed on the surface of the pile fabric.

A: the designs are shaped to a satisfactory degree
B: the designs are shaped considerably
C: the drawings are hardly shaped 3: the sharpness of configuration of the patterns of shadows and lights formed on the surface of the pile fabric (it is preferable that this configuration is fuzzy and indistinct)
A: the configuration of the drawing is fuzzy and indistinct
B: the configuration of the drawing is slightly distinct
C: the configuration of the drawing is distinct * 4:: the results of the collective evaluations, relating to the randomness, the degree of shaping of the drawings, the clarity of the configuration of the drawings, and the dragging effect.

A: excellent
B: satisfactory
C: relatively unsatisfactory for pra application
tick
EXAMPLES 5 TO 9
The treatment is carried out by the jets of fluid on a pile fabric (untreated) of the type obtained in example 1, under the same conditions as in example 4, but the materials allowing the passage of the fluid have a ratio opening which varies (the opening ratio being the ratio of the surface of the parts allowing the passage of the fluid to the total surface). The materials allowing the passage of the fluid are normalized with metallic fabric having meshes of 5.4 mm, the meshes being closed in part and in a random manner by welding of metallic parts having various designs, giving the variation of the ratio of or - green.

 The pile fabrics thus obtained are examined with the naked eye, and Table II gives the results obtained.

 Table II shows that particularly good results are obtained when the opening ratio is between 20 and 60%.

TABLE II
Opening report - Appearance of the pile fabric (%) Character Shaping the Sharpness of the Random evaluation drawing collective drawing * 1 * 2 * 3 * 4 example 5 10 ABAB example 6 20 AAAA example 7 40 AAAA example 8 60 A AB AB AB example 9 80 ABBB
EXAMPLES 10 TO 14
The pile treatment (untreated) obtained in example 1 is subjected to the treatment by the jets of fluid, under the same conditions as in example 4, but by varying the pressure of the fluid at high pressure as indicated in table III.

 The appearance of the hair tissue obtained is examined with the naked eye, and Table III gives the results.

 Table III and the results of Example 4 show that particularly good results are obtained when the water pressure is between 2.106 and 4.106 Pa.

TABLE III
High pressure water Appearance of pile fabric
Pressure Speed of Flow Character Shaping Clarity of Evaluation 105 Pa current, m / s cm3 / s. Random nozzle of the drawing collective drawing * 1 * 2 * 3 * 4 example 10 5 30.7 1450 ACAC example 11 10 43.4 2040 ABAB example 12 30 75.1 2900 AAAA example 13 40 86.8 4090 AAAA example 14 60 106.3 5010 AB AB B
EXAMPLES 15 TO 20
The treatment with the jets of fluid is subjected to a pile fabric (untreated) obtained in example 1, under the same conditions as in example 4, using a material allowing the passage of a fluid, prepared by closing the meshes of a metallic fabric with a 0.26 mm mesh, in a partial and random manner, by welding metal parts of various configurations, opening ratio equal to 30%), the fluid high pressure used being water vapor or air. Furthermore, the other conditions are the same as in Example 4.

 The appearance of the pile fabric obtained is examined with the naked eye and the results are shown in Table IV.

TABLE IV
High pressure fluid Appearance of pile fabric
Nature Pressure Temp- Flow Speed Character Shaping Sharpness Evaluation 105 Fluid setting, random m / s of the drawing of the collective C * 1 * 2 sin, * 3 * 4 g / s. AAAA nozzle example 15 steam 2 120 485 0 , 23 of water AAAA example 16 "4 151 687 0.33
AB AA AB example 17 "6 164 781 0.391 m3 / min. Nozzle example 18 air 2 20 320 0.0184 ABAB example 19" 4 20 432 0.0366 ABAB example 20 "6 20 470 0.0548 A AB A AB
EXAMPLE 21
A cross knit of 120 g / m2 is formed with a single twist S-wire of 120 rpm formed from multifilaments of hollow composite threads (having a denier of 75 and containing 20 filaments) prepared as described in Example 1, at the place of knitting, and a filament yarn (of denier equal to 30 and containing 12 filaments) of polyethylene terephthalate inside out.

The knitting is then subjected to relaxation, scraping and dyeing as described in Example 1.

The average denier of the monofilaments which form the pile of the knitted fabric obtained is 0.23. The pile knit, once dyed, undergoes the treatment with the jets under the same conditions as in Example 4. The appearance of the pile knit thus treated is examined with the naked eye and Table V gives the results. obtained.

EXAMPLE 22- Preparation of the pile fabric
The hollow composite filament is prepared by implementing the process described in Japanese patent application no. 106 292/77 from polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.60 (measured at 350C in orthochlorophenol) and polystyrene having a melt index of 20, the polyester constituents and the polystyrene constituents being in total number equal to 32 and being placed side by side, alternately, in the form of a loop so that a tubular body is formed along the longitudinal axis of the filament as shown in FIG. 7. In FIG. 7, the reference 42 designates the hollow composite filament, the reference 44 the polyester constituents (polyethylene terephthalate), the reference 46 the polystyrene constituents and the reference 48 the cavity.

 In the hollow composite fiber of FIG. 7, the ratio of the total weight of the polyester constituents to that of the polystyrene constituents is 1/1, the denier of the segments of the individual constituents is 0.07 and that of the hollow composite fiber is 2.3. The recess ratio, that is to say the ratio of the section of the cavity to the total section of the segments formed by the polyester constituents, the segments formed by the polystyrene constituents and the cavity, is equal to 5 t.

 The weft yarn is a single twist filament yarn formed from hollow composite fiber multifilaments (of denier equal to 600 and containing 260 filaments), having an S twist index of 150 rpm and the warp yarn is a yarn. double filamentary of denier equal to 200, containing two woolly yarns (with false twist) of denier equal to 100 and containing 24 filaments, formed of polyethylene terephthalate and having an S twist index of 150 rpm, and a satin with a notch of 4, having a weaving density of 28 warps per centimeter and 22.4 wefts per centimeter.

 The fabric thus obtained undergoes relaxation in a hot water bath at a temperature of 980C for 30 min, then drying at 1200C for 3 min.

The fabric is then washed five times with trichlorethylene and the segments formed by the polystyrene constituents of the hollow composite fiber all dissolve and are removed practically entirely. The fabric is then dried and subjected to an application of a smoothness agent formed essentially of a mineral oil.

The place of the fabric is scraped 15 times with a scraping machine with 33 metal wires per unit, with a speed of passage of 30 m / min. The pile fabric then undergoes a prior thermal fixing at a temperature of 170 ° C. for 30 s, in a thermal fixing apparatus with needle expander. Then, the pile fabric thus treated is dyed at a temperature of 1300C for 60 min in an aqueous dye bath containing, relative to the weight of the fabric, 4% of blue dye "Duranol Blue G" (Color Index No. 63395, brand from a dispersed dye produced by ICI), 0.2 cm3 / 1 of acetic acid and 1 g / l of a dispersing agent essentially formed by a condensation product of naphthalenesulfonic acid with formamide. is then soaped with an aqueous solution containing a nonionic detergent at a temperature of 800C for 20 min and then it is dried at 120 C for 3 min. The average denier of the monofilaments which form the hairs of the fabric obtained is 0.07.

Treatment by jets of a high fluid
pressure.

The pile fabric thus obtained then undergoes the treatment with the jets of fluid under the same conditions as in Example 4. The appearance of the pile fabric thus treated is examined with the naked eye, and the table
V gives the results obtained.

TABLE V
Aspect of the pile fabric
Character Shaping Sharpness of the Evaluation
random drawing collective drawing
* 1 * 2 * 3 * 4 example 21 AAAA example 22 AAAA
EXAMPLE 23
All the pile fabrics (having undergone the treatment by jets of fluid) obtained in Examples 1 to 22 are subjected to a treatment with polyurethane, by implementing the method described below.

When the pile cloth is immersed in a solution in dimethylformamide of 10% by weight of polyurethane (product of the reaction of methylene diphenyl diisocyanate, polyethylene glycol and 1,4-butanediol), and it is pressed. so that the sampling ratio corresponds to 80% of the weight of the fabric. This, after impregnation, is soaked in a large amount of water so that the polyurethane solidifies in the fabric. It is then dried at a temperature of 1200C for 3 min, and it is subjected once to a touch by a cylinder sandblasting machine, carrying a 0.25 mm grain sandpaper, before brushing.

 The pile fabrics thus obtained are all similar to suede, with a very beautiful appearance, excellent repulsive elasticity and excellent resistance to wrinkling.

EXAMPLE 24
All the pile fabrics (treated with jets of fluid) obtained in Examples 1 to 22 are subjected to a treatment with a urethane prepolymer, according to the method described below.

 Preparation of a urethane prepolymer.

The ingredients used are as follows
(1) 21 parts of a polyetherdiol block copolymer having a number average molecular weight of 2400, obtained by adding ethylene oxide to polypropylene glycol whose number average molecular weight is approximately 1200,
(2) 56 parts of polyesterdiol obtained by reaction of adipic acid, 1,6-hexanediol and neopentylglycol, mixed with a molar ratio of 10/7/4,
(3) 3 parts of 1,6-hexanediol, and
(4) 20 parts of hexamethyl diisocyanate.

The reaction medium is left to react at 100-105 ° C. for 1 h and under a stream of nitrogen, the mixture comprising these ingredients (the molar ratio of isocyanate groups to active hydrogen atoms being 2.06), so that it forms a urethane prepolymer having an isolated isocyanate group. The content of isolated isocyanate groups in the urethane prepolymber obtained is 5.02%, the content of oxyethylene groups being 10.2%.

 The urethane prepolymer obtained is cooled to 400C and diluted by adding 20 parts of dioxane. The solution obtained is carefully mixed with 65 parts of an aqueous solution of sodium bisulfite having a concentration of 25%, at a temperature of 400C for 30 min.

 Next, 202 parts of water and a suitable amount of hydrogen peroxide are added to the reaction system in order to form an aqueous solution of urethane prepolymer whose pH is equal to 3 and whose concentration is approximately 30% by weight. .

 Application of the urethane prepolymer.

The pile fabrics obtained in Examples 1 to 22 are immersed in an aqueous solution at 8% by weight of the urethane prepolymer indicated above (the pH is adjusted to 6.0 with sodium bicarbonate), and they are pressed in order to that the sampling ratio is 70% of the weight of the fabric. After drying at 1000C for 3 min, the dried fabric undergoes a heat treatment at 1400C for 30 s. Then, the surface of the fabric thus treated is touched once by a cylinder sandblasting machine having a 0.25 mm grain emery paper, the operation being followed by brushing.

 The pile fabrics thus obtained have the beautiful appearance of suede, excellent repulsive elasticity, and very exceptional pleating resistance.

Industrial application.

The invention can be advantageously used for the manufacture of the pile fabric in the form of a substitute for natural suede. The pile fabric obtained according to the invention has a very soft touch, an aspect of satin beauty and an excellent traInaye effect similar to that of natural suede, as well as excellent properties such as repulsive elasticity and resistance to pleating. Thus, the fabric having the appearance of suede prepared according to the invention has very diverse applications such as clothing, in the form of jackets, blouses, blazers, shirts, pants, shorts, panties, dresses, suits, jackets, overcoats, gloves, etc., as well as in the form of objects such as bags, boots and upholstery.

Of course, various modifications can be made by those skilled in the art to the devices and methods which have just been described only by way of nonlimiting examples without departing from the scope of the invention.

Claims (14)

1. A method of manufacturing a pile fabric having the appearance of suede, said method being characterized in that it comprises the projection of jets of a fluid at high pressure onto the place or face of the fabric which carries the bristles, these being formed of extremely fine fibers whose monofilaments have a denier between 0.0001 and 0.8, while the back of the fabric is maintained in close contact with the surface of a device support having random profile variations, the jets being transmitted through a material allowing the passage of a fluid and having parts arranged randomly and preventing the passage of a fluid. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the fabric support device has a cylindrical shape and is metallic. 3. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the material allowing the passage of a fluid and having parts arranged randomly and preventing the passage of a fluid, has an opening ratio between 10 and 80%, determined by partial and random obstruction of the meshes of a metallic fabric with a mesh of 0.072 to 5.4 mm. 4. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the high pressure fluid is water whose temperature is between 10 and 800C and whose pressure is between 105 and 7 10 Pa. 5. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the high pressure fluid is water vapor whose temperature is between 120 and 1800C and whose pressure is between 105 and 6.105 Pa. 6. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the high pressure fluid is sprayed in the form of jets from a location which is separated from the surface forming the location of the fabric by a distance between 0, 5 and 30 cm. 7. A method of preparing a pile fabric having the appearance of suede, characterized in that it comprises the projection of jets of a high pressure fluid on the place or surface of fabric which carries the pile, pile being in the form of extremely fine fibers, the monofilaments of which are between 0.0001 and 0.8 while the back of the fabric is kept in intimate contact with the surface of a fabric support device having random variations in profile, the jets passing through a material allowing the passage of the fluid and having parts arranged randomly and preventing the passage of the fluid, the method then comprising applying an elastic polymer to the pile fabric thus obtained. 8. Method according to claim 7, characterized in that the dry weight of elastic polymer applied to the pile fabric is between 1 and 50% of the weight of this fabric 9. Method according to claim 7, characterized in that the elastic polymer is a polyurethane. 10. Proeée according to claim 7, characterized in that the application of an elastic polymer on the pile fabric comprises the application of a urethane prepolymer activated by heating, having one or more isolated isocyanate groups blocked by bisulfite groups, on the pile fabric, in the form of an aqueous solution or an aqueous emulsion, then the heat treatment of the fabric at a temperature between 100 and 1800C so that a polyurethane is formed in the stuff. 11. Apparatus for manufacturing a pile fabric having the appearance of suede, said apparatus being characterized in that it comprises (1) a device (16) for supporting the fabric allowing the advance of the napkin (26) while it remains in intimate contact with the surface of the support device which carries a pattern having random variations in profile (2) of the nozzles <14) of projection placed above the device (16) for supporting a fabric and intended to project jets of a high pressure fluid onto the pile fabric, and (3) a material (2) allowing the passage of a fluid, disposed between. the fabric support device (16) and the nozzles (14), and having parts preventing the passage of a fluid and arranged partially and randomly so that the stream of high pressure fluid which is projected is random. 12. Apparatus according to claim 11, characterized in that the support device (16) is a rotary cylindrical device formed of metal. 13. Apparatus according to claim 11, character risF in that the material (2) allowing the passage of a fluid and having parts (30) preventing the passage of a fluid and arranged partially and randomly, is a rotary cylindrical material formed by a metallic fabric whose meshes are. between 0.072 and 5.4 mm, the meshes being closed partially and randomly so that the opening ratio is between 10 and 80 i, said material having a cylindrical shape. 14. Apparatus according to claim 11, characterized in that the nozzles (14) for projecting a high pressure fluid onto cloth (26) with pile are shown inside the cylindrical material (2) allowing the passage of 'a fluid.