FR2466273A1 - Cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsions - prepd. at ambient temp., using a mixt. of saponin(s) and lecithin(s) as emulsifier - Google Patents

Cosmetic and pharmaceutical emulsions - prepd. at ambient temp., using a mixt. of saponin(s) and lecithin(s) as emulsifier Download PDF

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FR2466273A1
FR2466273A1 FR7924650A FR7924650A FR2466273A1 FR 2466273 A1 FR2466273 A1 FR 2466273A1 FR 7924650 A FR7924650 A FR 7924650A FR 7924650 A FR7924650 A FR 7924650A FR 2466273 A1 FR2466273 A1 FR 2466273A1
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lecithins
emulsion
emulsifying agent
saponins
natural
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/06Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite
    • A61K47/24Organic compounds, e.g. natural or synthetic hydrocarbons, polyolefins, mineral oil, petrolatum or ozokerite containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, halogen, nitrogen or sulfur, e.g. cyclomethicone or phospholipids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/30Macromolecular organic or inorganic compounds, e.g. inorganic polyphosphates
    • A61K47/36Polysaccharides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. gums, starch, alginate, dextrin, hyaluronic acid, chitosan, inulin, agar or pectin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/44Oils, fats or waxes according to two or more groups of A61K47/02-A61K47/42; Natural or modified natural oils, fats or waxes, e.g. castor oil, polyethoxylated castor oil, montan wax, lignite, shellac, rosin, beeswax or lanolin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K47/00Medicinal preparations characterised by the non-active ingredients used, e.g. carriers or inert additives; Targeting or modifying agents chemically bound to the active ingredient
    • A61K47/46Ingredients of undetermined constitution or reaction products thereof, e.g. skin, bone, milk, cotton fibre, eggshell, oxgall or plant extracts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • A61K8/9717Rhodophycota or Rhodophyta [red algae], e.g. Porphyra
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/0012Galenical forms characterised by the site of application
    • A61K9/0014Skin, i.e. galenical aspects of topical compositions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14Preparations for removing make-up
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008Preparations for oily skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09KMATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
    • C09K23/00Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
    • C09K23/017Mixtures of compounds

Abstract

Emulsions suitable as cosmetics or pharmaceutical excipients contain a fatty phase and an aq. phase, an emulsifying agent and an antioxidant and, opt. dyes and essential oils, all of which are natural animal or vegetable prods. and are liqs. or semi-liqs. which are soluble or dispersible in water or liq. fatty materials at room temp. The emulsifying agent is a combination of saponins and lecithins, the lecithins being part of the emulsifying agent and of the fatty phase. The aq. phase is a gel of gums and colloids. Suitable fatty phases include cereal germ oils, avocado oil, almond oil, sesame oil, lanolin, and mink oil. The lecithins used may be those of bone marrow, of eggs or soya, the last being preferred. The saponins may be from horse chestnuts, gypsogenin, quillajic acid, or hederagenol. The lecithins and saponium pref. constitute 3-25% of the total weight of emulsion. Suitable gums, used as stabilisers, include gum tragacanth, alginates, carraghenates, pectins, starch and galactomananes. These pref. constitute 0.1-5% of the compsn. The emulsions are prepd. at ambient temp. hence there is no degradation of the natural prods. and the appts. required to effect emulsification is simpler than that needed for conventional emulsification.

Description

La présente invention concerne une émulsion notamment destinée à la fabrication de produits cosmétiques ou excipients pharmaceutiques, cette émulsion comportant une phase grasse, une phase aqueuse et un agent émulsifiant, des agents conservateurs et anti-oxydants ainsi que des additifs tels que des colorants ou des huiles essentielles. The present invention relates to an emulsion especially intended for the manufacture of cosmetic products or pharmaceutical excipients, this emulsion comprising a fatty phase, an aqueous phase and an emulsifying agent, preservatives and antioxidants as well as additives such as dyes or essential oils.

Une telle émulsion qui est de type "émulsion d'huile dans l'eau ou eau dans l'huile" est destinée notamment à la fabrication de produits cosmétiques ou à être utilisée comme excipient pharmaceutique. Such an emulsion which is of the “oil in water or water in oil emulsion” type is intended in particular for the manufacture of cosmetic products or for use as a pharmaceutical excipient.

Actuellement, pour fabriquer des émulsions cosmétiques des excipients pharmaceutiques, on fait un mélange sous agitation rapide d'une phase grasse constituée par des corps gras naturels ou synthétiques, préalablement fondus et d'une phase aqueuse chaude en présence d'un agent émulsifiant tel qu'un savon. Currently, to produce cosmetic emulsions of pharmaceutical excipients, a fatty phase consisting of natural or synthetic fatty substances, previously melted, and a hot aqueous phase in the presence of an emulsifying agent such as 'a soap.

Un tel procédé de fabrication et les produits résultants présentent un certain nombre d'inconvénients. En effet, comme il est nécessaire de chauffer les composants pour obtenir une émulsion, on détruit en partie ou en totalité certains éléments fragiles des corps naturels en réduisant ainsi l'activité du produit naturel ou en le dégradant par cette élévation de température. Or, comme ces éléments sont particulièrement intéressants par leurs effets, il serait souhaitable de les conserver dans le produit final. Such a manufacturing process and the resulting products have a number of drawbacks. Indeed, as it is necessary to heat the components to obtain an emulsion, part or all of certain fragile elements of natural bodies are destroyed, thereby reducing the activity of the natural product or degrading it by this rise in temperature. However, as these elements are particularly interesting in their effects, it would be desirable to keep them in the final product.

Les installations pour fabriquer de telles émulsions sont relativement complexes car, pour chauffer les composants, il faut des cuves à double paroi permettant la circulation du fluide calo-porteur. The installations for manufacturing such emulsions are relatively complex because, to heat the components, double-walled tanks are necessary for the circulation of the heat-carrying fluid.

Par ailleurs, on sait que les lécithines constituent des produits intéressants en cosmétique; mais qui, du fait de leurs multiples incónvénients, n'ont pas été utilisées jusqu'à ce jour dans des proportions importantes. En effet, les lécithines naturelles n'ont été utilisées comme agents émulsifiants que dans des limites très réduites, précisément à cause des inconvénients de fabrication et d'utilisation. En effet, les lécithines naturelles ont une couleur, une odeur et un toucher peu compatibles avec les critères esthétiques de la cosmétique ; elles tendent à s'oxyder, sont insolubles dans l'eau et se dégradent à la chaleur.C'est ainsi que, selon la littérature connue de l'homme de l'art, les auteurs recommandent toujours dans les formules des proportions de lécithine ne dépassant pas 5 % et de préférence comprises entre 1 et 3 en poids :G.. Walker, Amer, Perf. and Cosm. 82, 10, 73-76, 1967 Cosm perf. 89,7, 31-35, 1974 ; N. Herb, Cosm. Perf. 90,1, 39-42, 1975 ; S.B. Curri, Cosm. Toiletries, 92, 12, 19-20, 1977 GS Kass, Cosm. Toiletries 94,8, 25-30, 1979). Furthermore, we know that lecithins are interesting products in cosmetics; but which, due to their multiple drawbacks, have not been used to date in significant proportions. In fact, natural lecithins have only been used as emulsifying agents within very limited limits, precisely because of the drawbacks of manufacture and use. Indeed, natural lecithins have a color, an odor and a touch that are hardly compatible with the aesthetic criteria of cosmetics; they tend to oxidize, are insoluble in water and degrade on heat. Thus, according to the literature known to those skilled in the art, the authors always recommend in the formulas proportions of lecithin not exceeding 5% and preferably between 1 and 3 by weight: G. Walker, Amer, Perf. and Cosm. 82, 10, 73-76, 1967 Cosm perf. 89.7, 31-35, 1974; N. Herb, Cosm. Perf. 90.1, 39-42, 1975; S.B. Curri, Cosm. Toiletries, 92, 12, 19-20, 1977 GS Kass, Cosm. Toiletries 94,8, 25-30, 1979).

La présente invention a pour but de créer une émulsion formée uniquement de produits naturels, qui puisse se fabriquer à froid sans élévation de température susceptible de détruire, même par une légère élévation de température audelà de la température ambiante, certaines caractéristiquesu des constituants de l'émulsion, ne contenant que des composants naturels, ainsi qu'une forte proportion de lécithines. The object of the present invention is to create an emulsion formed solely from natural products, which can be produced cold without an increase in temperature capable of destroying, even by a slight increase in temperature beyond room temperature, certain characteristics or constituents of the emulsion, containing only natural components, as well as a high proportion of lecithins.

A cet effet, l'invention concerne un procédé de fabrication d'une émulsion comportant une phase grasse et une phase aqueuse, un agent émulsifiant ainsi que des agents conservateurs et anti-oxydants et, le cas échéant, des colorants et des huiles essentielles, tous ces produits étant naturels et à l'état liquide, semi-solide, soluble ou dissoluble dans l'eau ou dans les matières grasses liquides, à la température ambiante, ce procédé étant caractérisé en ce qu'on ajoute un émulsifiant constitué par la combinaison de lécithines et de saponines et on agite les composants sans élévation de tempéra- ture, à la température ambiante pour former ;L'émulsion. To this end, the invention relates to a process for the manufacture of an emulsion comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, an emulsifying agent as well as preserving and antioxidant agents and, where appropriate, dyes and essential oils, all these products being natural and in the liquid, semi-solid, soluble or dissoluble state in water or in liquid fats, at ambient temperature, this process being characterized in that an emulsifier consisting of combination of lecithins and saponins and the components are stirred without temperature rise, at room temperature to form the emulsion.

L'invention concerne également des émulsions notamment destinées à la fabrication de produits cosmétiques ou d'excipients pharmaceutiques, comportant une phase grasse et une phase aqueuse, un agent émulsifiant, des agents conservateurs et anti-oxydants ainsi que des additifs tels que des colorants ou des huiles essentielles, celle émulsion étant caractérisée en ce que tous les composants sont des substances naturelles d'origine végétale ou animale et l'agent émulsifiant est formé par la combinaison de saponines et de lécithines les lécithines faisant partie à la fois de l'agent émulsifiant et de la phase grasse, la phase aqueuse étant constituée par un gel des gommes et de colloïdes
Selon l'invention, on a constaté de façon surprenante qu'en utilisant un émulsifiant constitué par la combinaison de lécithines et de saponines, il était possible de disperser et de solubiliser des proportions élevées de léclth,nes dans l'eau On peut ainsi adapter la proportion respective des saponines et des lécithines pour former une gamme d'agents émulsifiants permettant d'obtenir par une agitation à froid toutes les formes d'émulsion nécessaires telles que huile dans eau, eau dans huile, des crèmes, des pattes, des cnguents, des gels, des laits, des lotions, etc... pour des usages cosmétiques ou comme excipients pharmaceutiques.
The invention also relates to emulsions especially intended for the manufacture of cosmetic products or pharmaceutical excipients, comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, an emulsifying agent, preservatives and antioxidants as well as additives such as dyes or essential oils, that emulsion being characterized in that all of the components are natural substances of plant or animal origin and the emulsifying agent is formed by the combination of saponins and lecithins, the lecithins being both part of the agent emulsifier and fatty phase, the aqueous phase consisting of a gel of gums and colloids
According to the invention, it has surprisingly been found that by using an emulsifier constituted by the combination of lecithins and saponins, it was possible to disperse and dissolve high proportions of leclth, nes in water. It is thus possible to adapt the respective proportion of saponins and lecithins to form a range of emulsifying agents making it possible to obtain, by cold stirring, all the necessary forms of emulsion such as oil in water, water in oil, creams, legs, ointments , gels, milks, lotions, etc ... for cosmetic uses or as pharmaceutical excipients.

La combinaison constituant l'émulsifiant permet non seulement d'intégrer à l'émulsion une quantité importante de lécitnes faisant à la fois partie de l'émulsifiant et de la phase grasse, ce qui est intéressant pour les propriétés de I"émulsion, mals également de conserver ces lécithines sans que niapparaissent les inconvénients de celles-ci, tels que l'odeir et le toucher, la tendance à l'oxydation, et l'insolu bilié dans l'eau ou la dégradation à la chaleur.En effet, et ccntralrement à ce qui est possible, sans utiliser le complexe émulsifiant lécithines saponines, les lécithines sont très peu utilisables dans des émulsions alors que, dans les produits selon l'invention, ce pourcentage peut être accru de façon considérable sans que n'apparaissent les inconvénients propres des lécithines
De plus, comme le complexe émulsifiant permet de faire uné émulsion à froid par simple agitation et non par chauffage préalable des composants pâteux ou solides ou mêmes liquides pour arriver à une émulsion, on réduit, d'une part, le ccut des installations de fabrication de ces produits car, au lieu d'utiliser des cuves à double paroi avec circuit de chauffe, on peut se limiter à des cuves simples munies d'un agitateur et, d'autre part, on réduit le coût du procédé en économisant l'énergie de chauffage.
The combination constituting the emulsifier makes it possible not only to integrate into the emulsion a large quantity of lecitnes forming both part of the emulsifier and of the fatty phase, which is advantageous for the properties of the emulsion, which is also bad. to keep these lecithins without their drawbacks appearing, such as odor and touch, the tendency to oxidation, and the insoluble bile in water or degradation by heat. ccntralement to what is possible, without using the emulsifier complex lecithins saponins, lecithins are very little usable in emulsions whereas, in the products according to the invention, this percentage can be increased considerably without appearing the disadvantages clean lecithins
In addition, as the emulsifying complex makes it possible to make a cold emulsion by simple stirring and not by prior heating of the pasty or solid or even liquid components to arrive at an emulsion, the ccut of the manufacturing installations is reduced on the one hand of these products because, instead of using double-walled tanks with heating circuit, we can limit ourselves to simple tanks provided with an agitator and, on the other hand, we reduce the cost of the process by saving the heating energy.

En outre, comme le produit est fabriqué sans subir de traitement thermique, il conserve son intégrité, ce qui est particulièrement important dans le cas de produits dont tous les composants sont naturels Cela est d'autant plus important que les lécithines se dégraderaient à des températures supérieures à 70 C De plus, de façon importante, on évite la formation de peroxydes organiques qui sont des composés de réaction fortement irritants pour la peau et les muqueuses
Enfin, des essais ont montré que l'on pouvait atteindre '3usqu'à des teneurs en lécithines dans des proportions allant jusqu'à 20 % en poids de la composition de l'emul- sion.-
Selon 11 invention
a) la phase grasse de l'émulsion peut être constituée par des graisses végétales telles que des huiles végétales et notamment des huiles de germes de céréales, d'avocat, d"amande, de noyaux, de sésame, de tournesol, d'olive, de soja, jojoba, de sasafra, de ricin, de raisins, etc.. ou des huiles animales telles que des huiles de poisson, de la lanoline liquide, de l'huile de vison etc... On utilisera en particulier des huiles d'avocat, de sésame, de ricin et de carthame.
In addition, as the product is produced without undergoing heat treatment, it retains its integrity, which is particularly important in the case of products of which all the components are natural. This is all the more important as the lecithins degrade at temperatures. higher than 70 C In addition, importantly, the formation of organic peroxides is avoided which are reaction compounds which are highly irritating to the skin and the mucous membranes.
Finally, tests have shown that it is possible to reach 3 levels of lecithins in proportions of up to 20% by weight of the composition of the emulsion.
According to 11 invention
a) the fatty phase of the emulsion can consist of vegetable fats such as vegetable oils and in particular oils of germs of cereals, avocado, almond, kernels, sesame, sunflower, olive , soy, jojoba, sasafra, castor, grapes, etc ... or animal oils such as fish oils, liquid lanolin, mink oil etc ... Oils will be used in particular avocado, sesame, castor oil and safflower.

b) L'agent émulsifiant est constitué par la combinaison de lécithines et de saponines. On peut utiliser un mélange de lécithines tel que des lécithines de moelle, d'oeuf (ovilécithines) ou de soja (végilécithines). On utilise de préférence, des lécithines de soja. Pour les saponines, on peut utilise des combinaisons de saponines par exemple extraites de marron d'inde, de saponaire (gypsogénine), de
Panama (acide quillajique) de de sapindus (hédéragénol).
b) The emulsifying agent consists of the combination of lecithins and saponins. A mixture of lecithins such as marrow lecithins, egg lecithins (ovilecithins) or soya (vegilecithins) can be used. Preferably, soy lecithins are used. For saponins, combinations of saponins can be used, for example extracted from horse chestnut, saponary (gypsogenin),
Panama (quillajic acid) of sapindus (hederagenol).

c) La phase aqueuse est nécessairement constituée par une solution ou un gel de gommes naturelles qui modifient à faible dose les caractéristiques rhéologiques de l'émulsion qui sont utilisées à la fois comme colloïdes protecteurs et stabilisateurs de l'émulsion et comme agents épaississants ou gélifiants. En effet, la phase grasse étant constituée par des lipides liquides ou semi-liquides à la température ambiante qui donnent des émulsions liquides, il est nécessaire, de régler la viscosité par des agents épaississants,
Comme gomme, on envisage la gomme adragante, les alginates, les carraghénates, les pectines, les celluloses de fruits ou de légumes, l'amidon, les galactommananes.De façon préférentielle on utilise des gommes à pouvoir viscogène élevé et plus parti culièrement les carraghénates et les gommes de guar, de caroube et de tara, des semences de coings.
c) The aqueous phase is necessarily constituted by a solution or a gel of natural gums which modify at low dose the rheological characteristics of the emulsion which are used both as protective colloids and stabilizers of the emulsion and as thickening or gelling agents . Indeed, the fatty phase being constituted by liquid or semi-liquid lipids at room temperature which give liquid emulsions, it is necessary to regulate the viscosity by thickening agents,
As gum, we consider gum tragacanth, alginates, carrageenans, pectins, fruit or vegetable celluloses, starch, galactommananes. Preferably gums with high viscogenic power and more particularly carrageenans are used. and guar, carob and tara gum, quince seeds.

La combinaison de lécithines et de saponines formant l'émulsifiant représente entre 3 % et 25 % du poids de la composition totale On choisit de préférence une teneur comprise entre 5-et 15 %. Dans cette combinaison, les saponines représentent entre 1 et 20 % du poids des lécithines et, de préférence, entre 2 et 10 %0
L'agent de stabilisation qui règle la viscosite et la stabilité de l'émulsion représente entre 0,1 et 5 % du poids de la composition et, de préférence, de 1 à 3 %.
The combination of lecithins and saponins forming the emulsifier represents between 3% and 25% of the weight of the total composition. A content preferably between 5 and 15% is chosen. In this combination, the saponins represent between 1 and 20% of the weight of the lecithins and, preferably, between 2 and 10% 0
The stabilizing agent which regulates the viscosity and the stability of the emulsion represents between 0.1 and 5% of the weight of the composition and, preferably, from 1 to 3%.

Les émulsions ainsi fabriquées, selon l'invention, peuvent également recevoir des additifs tels que des agents anti-solaires, des vitamines, des colorants végétaux, des liquides biologiques, des extraits végétaux ou des agents anti- rides, etc
La présente invention sera illustrée à l'aide de quelques exemples de mise en oeuvre.
The emulsions thus produced, according to the invention, can also receive additives such as sunscreen agents, vitamins, vegetable dyes, biological liquids, plant extracts or anti-wrinkle agents, etc.
The present invention will be illustrated with the aid of a few examples of implementation.

EXEMPLE 1
On prépare selon l'invention une crème cosmetique ou excipient pharmaceutique en utilisant le mélange des substances suivantes
Gomme guar 1, 35 g
Lécithine de soja 10 g
Huile de ricin 10 g
Alcools de Lanoline 5 g
Huile de sésame 9 g
Saponines 0,3 g
Acide usnique 0,1 g
Huiles essentielles 0,4 g
Eau qsp 100 g
On prépare la crème en dissolvant les saponines et la gomme guar dans l'eau à température ambiante, par agitation à l'aide d'une turbine e Dans cette phase aqueuse, on disperse la létichine par agitation à l'aide d'une turbine et on incorpore, toujours à la température ambiante, les huiles dans l'ordre indiqué dans la formule.
EXAMPLE 1
A cosmetic cream or pharmaceutical excipient is prepared according to the invention using the mixture of the following substances
Guar gum 1, 35 g
Soy lecithin 10 g
Castor oil 10 g
Lanolin alcohols 5 g
Sesame oil 9 g
Saponins 0.3 g
Usnic acid 0.1 g
Essential oils 0.4 g
Water qs 100 g
The cream is prepared by dissolving the saponins and guar gum in water at room temperature, by stirring using a turbine e In this aqueous phase, the letichin is dispersed by stirring using a turbine and the oils are incorporated, still at room temperature, in the order indicated in the formula.

EXEMPLE 2
On prépare selon l'invention, un lait démaquillant en procédant à la simple agitation des ingrédients suivants selon la procédé de l'exemple 1
Gomme de tara 0,4 g
Lécithine de soja 13 g
Saponines 1,2 g
Huile de Carthame 11 g
Alcools de Lanoline 4 g
Huiles essentielles 0,4 g
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100 g
EXEMPLE 3
On prépare selon l'invention, une émulsion fluide pour le corps en effectuant le mélange des substances suivantes, suivant le procédé de l'exemple 1
Pectines de Citron 0,8 g
Lécithines de Soja 8 g
Saponines 0,3 g
Huile de ricin 4 g
Huile d'Avocat 15 g
Alcools de Lanoline 3 g
Tocophérols 0,1 g
Huiles essentielles 0,4 g
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100 g
EXEMPLE 4
On prépare selon l'invention une crème-gel pour les mains, en utilisant le mélange des ingrédients suivants
Gomme de Caroube 1,8 g
Lécithine de Soja 7 g
Saponines 0,1 g
Huile de Celendula 10 g
Carotène 0,1 g
Vitamine A 1 g
Huiles essentielles 0,4 g
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100 g
On prépare selon l'invention, une crème absorbante pour peaux grasses, en utilisant le mélange des ingrédients suivants
Carraghénane 2 g
Lécithines deshuilée 8 g
Amidon de mais 2 g
Farine de graine de Tamarin 2 g
Huile de noyau 10 g
Lanoline liquide 3 g
Extrait de Bois de Panama 0,5 g
Huiles essentielles 0,4 g
Eau déminéralisée qsp 100 g
Dans toutes les opérations de mise en oeuvre, l'ordre d'addiction des divers constituants n'est pas déterminanti En effet, bien que, dans les exemples 1 à 4 ci-dessus, l'ordre d'addltion corresponde à l'ordre d'énumération des divers composants, cela ne constitue pas une obligation ni une limite à l'invention.
EXAMPLE 2
A cleansing milk is prepared according to the invention by simply stirring the following ingredients according to the method of Example 1
Tara gum 0.4 g
Soy lecithin 13 g
Saponins 1.2 g
Safflower oil 11 g
Lanolin alcohols 4 g
Essential oils 0.4 g
Demineralized water qs 100 g
EXAMPLE 3
According to the invention, a fluid emulsion for the body is prepared by mixing the following substances, according to the method of Example 1
Lemon Pectins 0.8 g
Soy lecithins 8 g
Saponins 0.3 g
Castor oil 4 g
Avocado Oil 15 g
Lanolin alcohols 3 g
Tocopherols 0.1 g
Essential oils 0.4 g
Demineralized water qs 100 g
EXAMPLE 4
A hand cream-gel is prepared according to the invention, using the mixture of the following ingredients
Carob Gum 1.8 g
Soy lecithin 7 g
Saponins 0.1 g
Celendula oil 10 g
Carotene 0.1 g
Vitamin A 1 g
Essential oils 0.4 g
Demineralized water qs 100 g
An absorbent cream for oily skin is prepared according to the invention, using the mixture of the following ingredients
Carrageenan 2 g
Dehydrated lecithins 8 g
Corn starch 2 g
Tamarind seed flour 2 g
Core oil 10 g
Liquid Lanolin 3 g
Panama wood extract 0.5 g
Essential oils 0.4 g
Demineralized water qs 100 g
In all the implementation operations, the order of addition of the various constituents is not determinative. In fact, although, in examples 1 to 4 above, the order of addition corresponds to the order listing of the various components, this does not constitute an obligation or a limit to the invention.

Enfin, comme indiqué ci-dessus, l'agitation de la composition pour fabriquer l'émulsion se fait à l'aide d'une turbine, sans élévation de température, pendant l'agitation ni chauffage préalable. Finally, as indicated above, the stirring of the composition for manufacturing the emulsion is carried out using a turbine, without raising the temperature, during stirring or prior heating.

Les émulsions préparées selon les exemples ci-dessus ont toutes été soumises aux essais de stabilité couramment utilisés par l'homme de l'art, en particulier aux essais de stabilité à la centrifugation et au vieillissement accéléré par séjour en étuve à 400 C. Le comportement de ces émulsions est en tous points comparables à celui des émulsions préparées selon les procédés et compositions classiques. The emulsions prepared according to the above examples were all subjected to the stability tests commonly used by those skilled in the art, in particular to the tests of stability to centrifugation and to accelerated aging by stay in an oven at 400 ° C. The behavior of these emulsions is in all respects comparable to that of the emulsions prepared according to conventional methods and compositions.

Claims (6)

REVENDICATIONS 10) Emulsion notamment destinée à la fabrication de produits cosmétiques ou excipients pharmaceutiques comportant une phase grasse et une phase aqueuse, un agent émulsifiant, des agents conservateurs et anti-oxydants, ainsi que des additifs tels que des colorants et des huiles essentielles, tous produits naturels, liquides, semi-liquides, solubles ou dispersibles dans l'eau ou dans des matières grasses liquides à la température ambiante, émulsion caractérisée en ce que tous les composants sont des substances naturelles d'origine végétale ou animale, l'agent émulsifiant est formé par la combinaison de saponines et de lécithines, les lécithines faisant partie à la fois de l'agent émulsifiant et de la phase grasse, la phase aqueuse étant constituée par un gel de gommes et de colloïdes  10) Emulsion especially intended for the manufacture of cosmetic products or pharmaceutical excipients comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, an emulsifying agent, preservatives and antioxidants, as well as additives such as dyes and essential oils, all products natural, liquid, semi-liquid, soluble or dispersible in water or in fat liquid at room temperature, emulsion characterized in that all the components are natural substances of plant or animal origin, the emulsifying agent is formed by the combination of saponins and lecithins, the lecithins being part of both the emulsifying agent and the fatty phase, the aqueous phase consisting of a gel of gums and colloids 20) Emulsion selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que'l'agent émulsifiant, composé de saponines et de lécithines, représente entre 3 % et 25 % et notamment 5 % et 15 % du poids de l'émulsion et les saponines représentant 1 % et 20 % et, de préférence, entre 2 et 10 % du poids en lécithines 20) Emulsion according to Claim 1, characterized in that the emulsifying agent, composed of saponins and lecithins, represents between 3% and 25% and in particular 5% and 15% of the weight of the emulsion and the saponins representing 1 % and 20% and preferably between 2 and 10% by weight of lecithins 30) Emulsion selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que l'agent de stabilisation est constitué par des galactomannanes et des carraghénanes, dans des proportions comprises entre 0,1 et 5 % et de préférence entre 1 et 3 % du poids de la composition. 30) Emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the stabilizing agent consists of galactomannans and carrageenans, in proportions of between 0.1 and 5% and preferably between 1 and 3% of the weight of the composition . 40) Procédé de fabrication d'une émulsion, notamment destinée à des produits cosmétiques ou excipients pharmaceutiques, cette émulsion comportant une phase grasse et une phase aqueuse, un agent émulsifiant, des agents conservateurs et anti-oxydants ainsi que des additifs tels que des colorants et des huiles essentielles, tous les produits é étant naturels et à l'état liquide ou semi-liquide, solubles ou dispersibles dans l'eau ou dans des matières grasses liquides à la température ambiant?, procédé caractérisé en ce qu'on utilise, comme agent émulsifiant, une combinaison de lécithines et de saponines et on agite le mélange à température ambiante sans élévation de température pour former l'émulsion. 40) Method for manufacturing an emulsion, in particular intended for cosmetic products or pharmaceutical excipients, this emulsion comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, an emulsifying agent, preservatives and antioxidants as well as additives such as colorants and essential oils, all the products being natural and in the liquid or semi-liquid state, soluble or dispersible in water or in liquid fats at ambient temperature ?, process characterized in that one uses, as an emulsifying agent, a combination of lecithins and saponins and the mixture is stirred at room temperature without raising the temperature to form the emulsion. 50) Produit cosmétique ou pharmaceutique caractérisé en ce qu'il contient une émulsion fabriquée selon le procédé de la revendication 4 ou correspondant à la définition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3. 50) Cosmetic or pharmaceutical product characterized in that it contains an emulsion manufactured according to the process of claim 4 or corresponding to the definition according to any one of claims 1 to 3. 60) Produit selon la revendication 5, carac térisé en ce qu'il contient du moins une substance naturelle teLle que des agents anti-solaires, des vitamines, des colorants végétaux, des liquides biologiques, des extraits végétaux, des agents anti-rides.  60) Product according to claim 5, charac terized in that it contains at least one natural substance such as anti-sun agents, vitamins, vegetable dyes, biological liquids, plant extracts, anti-wrinkle agents.
FR7924650A 1979-10-03 1979-10-03 EMULSION, IN PARTICULAR FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS OR PHARMACEUTICAL EXCIPIENTS AND METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING SUCH AN EMULSION Expired FR2466273B1 (en)

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Cited By (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0106100A2 (en) * 1982-09-10 1984-04-25 Eisai Co., Ltd. An aqueous preparation containing vitamin E
EP0138992A1 (en) * 1983-04-11 1985-05-02 Fmc Corp Toiletry formulations.
EP0153373A1 (en) * 1983-08-15 1985-09-04 TUTSKY, Ronald J. Skin care and shaving composition
EP0375082A2 (en) * 1988-12-22 1990-06-27 Kanebo Ltd. Cosmetic composition
EP0522624A1 (en) * 1991-07-02 1993-01-13 Unilever N.V. Cosmetic stick
WO1993015714A1 (en) * 1992-02-12 1993-08-19 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Aqueous cleaning products
EP0576279A1 (en) * 1992-06-26 1993-12-29 Genzyme Corporation Hydrophilic cream for the delivery of therapeutic agents
US5674504A (en) * 1989-07-12 1997-10-07 L'oreal Cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous gel containing in suspension spheroids of a non-hydrophilic, lipoidal substance
EP1092422A1 (en) * 1999-10-14 2001-04-18 L'oreal Composition, particularly for cosmetics containing a sapogenin
FR2876585A1 (en) * 2004-10-20 2006-04-21 Persee Medica COMPOSITION FOR FIGHT AGAINST SNOW
FR2945936A1 (en) * 2009-05-26 2010-12-03 Jean Claude Epiphani Preparing aqueous emulsion of oily active substance, useful for e.g. cosmetic and food use, comprises mixing hydrophilic component (water and saponin emulsifier), mixing lipophilic components (substance and stabilizer) and homogenizing
WO2013083912A2 (en) 2011-12-08 2013-06-13 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Novel oil-in-water emulsions enriched with salt which are highly viscous and stable over time
WO2017080772A1 (en) * 2015-11-10 2017-05-18 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic make up remover with improved skin moistening

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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DE725292C (en) * 1935-11-15 1942-09-18 Hans P Kaufmann Dr Process for the production of ointment-like or paste-like emulsions

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE725292C (en) * 1935-11-15 1942-09-18 Hans P Kaufmann Dr Process for the production of ointment-like or paste-like emulsions

Cited By (26)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0106100A2 (en) * 1982-09-10 1984-04-25 Eisai Co., Ltd. An aqueous preparation containing vitamin E
EP0106100A3 (en) * 1982-09-10 1985-08-07 Eisai Co., Ltd. An aqueous preparation containing vitamin e
EP0138992A1 (en) * 1983-04-11 1985-05-02 Fmc Corp Toiletry formulations.
EP0138992A4 (en) * 1983-04-11 1987-06-03 Fmc Corp Toiletry formulations.
EP0153373A1 (en) * 1983-08-15 1985-09-04 TUTSKY, Ronald J. Skin care and shaving composition
EP0153373A4 (en) * 1983-08-15 1987-06-15 Ronald J Tutsky Skin care and shaving composition.
EP0375082A2 (en) * 1988-12-22 1990-06-27 Kanebo Ltd. Cosmetic composition
EP0375082A3 (en) * 1988-12-22 1991-05-08 Kanebo Ltd. Cosmetic composition
US5674504A (en) * 1989-07-12 1997-10-07 L'oreal Cosmetic composition in the form of an aqueous gel containing in suspension spheroids of a non-hydrophilic, lipoidal substance
EP0522624A1 (en) * 1991-07-02 1993-01-13 Unilever N.V. Cosmetic stick
WO1993015714A1 (en) * 1992-02-12 1993-08-19 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Aqueous cleaning products
EP0576279A1 (en) * 1992-06-26 1993-12-29 Genzyme Corporation Hydrophilic cream for the delivery of therapeutic agents
EP1092422A1 (en) * 1999-10-14 2001-04-18 L'oreal Composition, particularly for cosmetics containing a sapogenin
FR2799759A1 (en) * 1999-10-14 2001-04-20 Oreal COMPOSITION, ESPECIALLY COSMETIC, COMPRISING A SAPOGENIN
US6294157B1 (en) 1999-10-14 2001-09-25 L'oreal Composition containing sapogenin
US6528043B2 (en) 1999-10-14 2003-03-04 L'oreal Composition containing sapogenin
FR2876585A1 (en) * 2004-10-20 2006-04-21 Persee Medica COMPOSITION FOR FIGHT AGAINST SNOW
WO2006042926A1 (en) * 2004-10-20 2006-04-27 Persee Medica Anti-snoring composition
FR2945936A1 (en) * 2009-05-26 2010-12-03 Jean Claude Epiphani Preparing aqueous emulsion of oily active substance, useful for e.g. cosmetic and food use, comprises mixing hydrophilic component (water and saponin emulsifier), mixing lipophilic components (substance and stabilizer) and homogenizing
WO2013083912A2 (en) 2011-12-08 2013-06-13 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Novel oil-in-water emulsions enriched with salt which are highly viscous and stable over time
FR2983721A1 (en) * 2011-12-08 2013-06-14 Seppic Sa NEW OIL-IN-WATER EMULSIONS RICH IN SALTS, HIGH VISCOSITY AND STABLE DURING TIME
WO2013083912A3 (en) * 2011-12-08 2014-07-24 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Novel oil-in-water emulsions enriched with salt which are highly viscous and stable over time
CN104168878A (en) * 2011-12-08 2014-11-26 化工产品开发公司Seppic Novel oil-in-water emulsions enriched with salt which are highly viscous and stable over time
CN104168878B (en) * 2011-12-08 2017-06-30 化工产品开发公司Seppic Glue very much and with the rich saline bag fat liquor of time stabilization
US10111825B2 (en) 2011-12-08 2018-10-30 Societe D'exploitation De Produits Pour Les Industries Chimiques Seppic Oil-in-water emulsions enriched with salt which are highly viscous and stable over time
WO2017080772A1 (en) * 2015-11-10 2017-05-18 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic make up remover with improved skin moistening

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