ES2742535T3 - Obtaining an extract of gametophytes that originate from brown algae and its use as an anti-aging cosmetic active ingredient - Google Patents

Abstract

Procedure for obtaining a lipophilic extract of gametophytes from brown algae, comprising the following successive steps: - A step A) of preparing a hydroalcoholic suspension of gametophyte cells by mixing an aqueous suspension of gametophyte cells from brown algae with at least one aliphatic alcohol consisting of one to four carbon atoms; - A step B) of mixing said hydroalcoholic suspension of algae gametophyte cells obtained in step A) with at least one triglyceride of fatty acids consisting of eight to twenty-two carbon atoms; - A step C) of adding water to the multiphase mixture obtained in step B); - A step D) of isolation of said lipophilic extract of gametophytes from brown algae, from the mixture obtained in step C).

Description

DESCRIPTION

Obtaining an extract of gametophytes that originate from brown algae and its use as an anti-aging cosmetic active ingredient

The present invention relates to a new extract of brown seaweed gametophytes, to the process for its preparation as well as its use as an anti-aging agent for the skin of the human body, and cosmetic, pharmaceutical, dermopharmaceutical compositions for topical use, intended to prevent skin aging of the human body.

Since human skin is the first image offered to others, improving its appearance is often a concern for humans. The skin is a reflection of a state of well-being, often associated with youth, or a state of fatigue and / or aging. Consumers of cosmetic products, therefore, seek solutions to mitigate and / or prevent visible manifestations related to such aging.

This skin aging is observed at the level of the various skin tissues and is characterized by metabolic, functional, cellular, architectural and tissue alterations, which produce visible external effects, such as the appearance and increase of wrinkles, a dull complexion and / or lack of uniformity of this complexion (dyschromia) or the modification of the texture and biomechanical properties of the skin.

This skin aging is due, on the one hand, to specific factors of each individual (characteristics of the specific genetic inheritance of each individual) and, on the other hand, to environmental factors. Among the environmental factors that can cause skin aging, there is repeated and prolonged exposure to natural or artificial ultraviolet radiation (or photo aging), air pollution, cigarette smoke and various types of oxidative, psychological, emotional and / or nervous

Photoaging causes skin changes at different levels, in particular solar elastosis, which is characterized by profound changes in the architecture and organization of the elastic fibers of the dermis, which induce the formation of very marked and deep wrinkles, an aspect tanned skin, that is, tight, cracked and burnished, as well as changes in the mechanical properties of these fibers.

In the face of these external aggressions, the skin has its own defense systems and, in particular, systems to repair the damage caused to DNA by said external aggressions. More particularly, these are antioxidant systems and non-functional protein degradation systems. Among antioxidant systems, two types of antioxidant elements are present in the body: non-enzymatic elements, such as vitamin E and vitamin C, and enzymatic elements, such as superoxide dismutase and catalase. In particular, it has been shown that certain external elements, such as type A ultraviolet radiation and chronic thermal stress, regulated catalase activity by decreasing it and that it was related to the appearance of wrinkles [Shin et al., "Chronic heat treatment causes skin wrinkle formation and oxidative damage in hairless mice ", 2012, Mech Aging Dev, 133 (2-3): 92-8], [Corstjens et al.," Prevention of oxidative damage that contributes to the loss of bioenergetic capacity in ageing skin ", 2007, Exp Gerontol, 42 (9): 924-9].

Skin aging has also been described as related to a lack of response of the body to the phenomenon of hypoxia (a decrease in oxygen levels). The cellular response to hypoxia is the overexpression of the HIF-1 transcription factor, composed of 2 subunits: Alpha, inducible subunit and Beta, a subunit expressed constitutionally. This transcription factor allows the expression of other genes involved in the adaptation to hypoxia that leads to: a metabolic change from the aerobic pathway to the anaerobic pathway, which allows to preserve the amount of tissue oxygen, angiogenesis, cell survival and in some tumor induction cases. Therefore, HIF-1 sees its expression decrease during aging and a pseudohypoxic state is established within the cells. Sirtuin-1 (SIRT-1) is an enzyme with a deacetylase function that has been described as controlling the activity of the HIF-1a transcription factor. Due to its activity, SIRT-1 is involved in the regulation of many biological processes by modifying the level of acetylation of histones and / or transcription factors. Therefore, its involvement in antioxidant protection (through the induction of SOD catalase) and in cell survival and longevity have been widely described.

As a result, overexpression of the transcription factor HIF-1 and / or sirtuin-1 constitutes means to prevent and / or treat the aging of the skin of the human body, and more particularly to prevent and / or treat the visible effects of said aging, for example wrinkles, dull complexion, lack of uniformity of the complexion (dyschromia), stiffness of the skin of the human body, caused by natural aging or prolonged exposure to the sun, and more particularly exposure to ultraviolet radiation, or exposure to oxidative stress.

The class of brown algae, also called pheophyly, is part of the branch of the Ochrophytes. This branch contains algae whose cells contain "supernumerary" carotenoid pigments, such as fucoxanthin, in addition to chlorophyll pigments: chlorophylls a and c.

The class of brown algae includes the orders: Ascoseirales, Asterocladales, Desmarestiales, Dictyotales, Dictyotophycidae, Discosporangiales, Discosporangiophycidae, Ectocarpales, Fucales, Fucophycidae, Ishigeales, Ishigeophycidae, Laminariales, Nemodermatales, Onslowiales, Phaeophyceae ordo incertae sedis, Phaeosiphoniellales, Ralfsiales, Scytothamnales, Sphacelariales, Sporochnales, Syringodermatales, Tilopteridales. All photosynthetic organisms use pigments to capture the energy of light, usually a form of chlorophyll. Standard chlorophyll is chlorophyll a and is essential for the transfer of energy captured from light to the molecules that will use this energy. Most chlorophyll organisms have other pigments to capture more light, but the energy must still be transferred to the chlorophyll molecule a.

Brown algae use several types of supernumerary pigments such as chlorophyll c and carotenoids. Pheophytes have large amounts of carotenoids in their plastids and it is these brown and yellow pigments that give them this characteristic brown color. The most important carotenoid pigment in brown algae is fucoxanthin, which absorbs wavelengths from 450 to 580 nm.

Carotenoid pigments have an aliphatic or alicyclic structure. They are fat soluble, which favors their direct integration into certain membranes. As a result, their water solubility can only occur when they are bound to other molecules. Carotenoids are also called accessory pigments, since they have to transfer the energy they capture to chlorophyll a. These pigments are known to the general public for the carotene that gave its name to this family of pigments.

Fucoxanthin, which belongs to the class of non-provitamin A carotenoids, is represented by the formula:

The algae most described by their fucoxanthin content are Sargassum horneri, Hizikia fusiformis, Laminaria japonica and Undaria pinnatifida [Kim and Pangestuti, "Biological activities and potential health benefits of fucoxanthin derived from marine brown algae", Avances in Food and Nutrition Research, ( 2011) Chapter 9, 64 pp. 111-128]. In brown algae, fucoxanthin has an important biological function of protection against oxidative stress at the level of the collecting antenna that allows photosynthesis [D. Siefermann-Harms, "The light-harvesting and protective functions of carotenoids in photosynthetic membranes" in : Physiology Plantarum, (1987) vol. 69 (3) pp. 561-568]. The synthesis of this molecule in algae is finely regulated according to the light conditions [R. Goss, T. Jakob, "Regulation and fonction of xanthophyll cycle-dependent photoprotection in algae" in: Photosynthesis Research. (2010), vol. 106 (1-2) pp. 103-122]. Fucoxanthin is, in addition to the reduction of glutathione, a-tocopherol, p-carotene and flavonoids, a response to global oxidative stress [N. Mallick, F. Mohn, "Reactive oxygen species: response of algal cells" in J. Plant Physiology. (2000) vol. 157 (2), p. 183-193]. Fucoxanthin has been widely described as having the following biological effects: antioxidant, anti-obesity, anti-cancer, anti-diabetic, anti-aging, protection of the cardiovascular system, anti-inflammatory, neuroprotection, anti-angiogenic, anti-tyrosinase (which implies a depigmenting effect), or a prevention effect of osteoporosis [Kim and Pangestuti, "Biological activities and potential health benefits of fucoxanthin derived from marine brown algae", Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, (2011) Chapter 9, 64 pp. 111-128; D'Orazio et al., "Fucoxanthin: a treasure from the sea" in: Marine Drugs, (2012), 10 pp. 604-616.]. Because of these health and skin benefits, fucoxanthin, or extracts containing fucoxanthin, are widely used in various fields, such as nutrition, cosmetics or pharmacy.

The French patent application published under number 2837383 describes that the extracts of Undaria pinnatifida had positive in vitro effects against the aggressions caused to the skin (reactive oxygen species, heavy metals, carbon dioxide, tobacco smoke, chemical contamination, ...); said algae extracts being aqueous extracts obtained from talos or any part of talos in fresh, frozen, dried, whole, fragmented or ground form. However, such aqueous extracts lead to an effect that is not satisfactory enough for an effective application in cosmetics or pharmacy.

The French patent application published under number 2880803 describes the use of brown algae to obtain an anti-aging effect. However, the extract used in this patent application leads to an effect that is not satisfactory enough for a possible application in cosmetics or pharmacy. In addition, this extract is difficult to incorporate into cosmetic formulations such as creams.

For this reason, the inventors have strived to develop a new brown seaweed extract that has an improved anti-aging effect and is easily incorporated into cosmetic formulations in the form of creams.

According to a first aspect, the object of the invention is a method of obtaining a lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae obtained by the process comprising the following successive steps:

- A step A) of preparing a hydroalcoholic suspension of gametophyte cells by mixing an aqueous suspension of gametophytes of brown algae with at least one aliphatic alcohol consisting of one to four carbon atoms;

- A stage B) of mixing said hydroalcoholic suspension of algae gametophyte cells obtained in stage A), with at least one triglyceride of fatty acids consisting of eight to twenty two carbon atoms;

- A step C) of adding water to the multiphase mixture obtained in step B);

- A step D) of isolating said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes, from the mixture obtained in step C).

In the definition of the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes, object of the present invention, the aqueous suspension of gametes of brown algae gametophytes used in step A of the process for obtaining it can be prepared as follows:

- According to stage a), mature sporophyte sheets are collected ready to sporulate the brown algae used. Mature sporophytes are sporophytes that consist of fertile areas.

- According to a stage b), mature sporophytes collected during stage a) are placed in trays containing seawater and release their spores in the middle. The spores thus released begin their germination to give rise to gametophyte cells.

- According to a step c), the gametophytes formed during stage b) are isolated and then deposited in a vessel containing seawater containing at least one source of nitrogen, such as sodium nitrate (NaNO3) at a concentration comprised between 50 and 250 mg / l with a preference for 150 mg / l and a phosphorus source such as sodium dihydrogen phosphate (NaH2PO4) at a concentration between 5 and 75 mg / l with a preference for 50 mg / l. According to a particular embodiment of this step c), other mineral elements are also added to the aqueous suspension thus formed by the addition of a nutrient medium such as the Provasoli medium of the following composition:

- According to a stage d), the gametophytes are grown in translucent culture tanks under an air bubble optionally supplemented with carbon dioxide, at room temperature under constant illumination. After 14 days of culture, the cells have multiplied and the amount of biomass is high. Then it is convenient to collect the gametophyte cells present in the culture by filtering the contents of the tank in a filter screen with a threshold 80 | jm cut keeping gametophytes on its surface. The brown seaweed gametophytes obtained are then rinsed with seawater.

- According to stage e), the gametophytes collected in this way are suspended in water. This aqueous suspension is then used in step A) of the process for obtaining said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes.

During step A) of the process for obtaining said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes as defined above, the aqueous suspension of gametophyte cells is mixed with the alcohol or the mixture of alcohols at a temperature of 20 ° C for at least 20 ° C. one hour, at a rate of 5 to 30 liters of alcohol per kilogram of biomass and more particularly at the rate of approximately 10 liters of alcohol per kilogram of biomass. Said at least one aliphatic alcohol consisting of one to four carbon atoms employed in step A) of the process for obtaining said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes as defined above, it is more particularly chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol or a mixture of these alcohols; more particularly it is ethanol.

During step B) of the process for obtaining said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes as defined above, said hydroalcoholic suspension of brown algae gametophyte cells obtained in stage A) is mixed with at least one triglyceride of fatty acids which They consist of eight to twenty two carbon atoms. Said at least one fatty acid triglyceride consisting of eight to twenty two carbon atoms is more particularly a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides consisting of eight to ten carbon atoms. According to this step B), the mixture is stirred for at least one hour.

According to another particular aspect, said hydroalcoholic suspension of brown algae gametophyte cells obtained in step A), is mixed with said at least one fatty acid triglyceride consisting of eight to twenty two carbon atoms, so that the mass ratio : mass of brown algae gametophyte cells with respect to the mass of triglycerides of acids consisting of eight to twenty-two carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 10% and, more particularly, greater than or equal to 5% . According to a more particular aspect, this mass ratio is approximately equal to 6%.

During step C) of the process for obtaining said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes as defined above, water is added to the multiphase mixture obtained in step B) at a temperature of 20 ° C with stirring.

According to another particular aspect, to said multiphase mixture obtained from step B) water is added so that the mass: mass ratio of brown algae gametophyte cells relative to water mass is greater than or equal to 0.5 % and less than or equal to 2%. According to a more particular aspect, this mass ratio is approximately equal to 1%.

Step D) of isolating said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes, from the mixture obtained in step C), is generally carried out as follows: the mixture thus formed is filtered to remove biomass. The filtrate is then separated by centrifugation to obtain the lipophilic extract of interest.

"Brown algae" means in the lipophilic extract object of the present invention, the elements of the group consisting of the brown algae of the Ascoseirales, Asterocladales, Desmarestiales, Dictyotales, Dictyotophycidae, Discosporangiales, Discosporangiophycidae, Ectocarpal, Fucales, Fucophycidae, Ishigealesales, , Ishigeophycidae, Laminariales, Nemodermatales, Onslowiales, Phaeophyceae ordo incertae sedis, Phaeosiphoniellales, Ralfsiales, Scytothamnales, Sphacelariales, Sporochnales, Syringodermatales, Tilopteridales, and more particularly the elements of the group constituted by those of algae, brown algae , larest, Ectocarpal and Tilopteridales, and even more particularly the brown algae of the order Laminarial.

In the lipophilic extract object of the present invention, brown seaweed of the order Laminarial selected among the brown algae of the Alariaceae family and of the Laminariaceae family is more particularly designated by "brown algae" .

In the lipophilic extract object of the present invention, brown seaweed of the Laminariaceae family , selected from the group consisting of Laminaria digitata, Laminaria saccharina, Laminaria hyperborea and Laminaria ochroleuca , is designated more particularly by "brown algae" .

In the lipophilic extract object of the present invention, brown algae of the Laminarial order of the Alariaceae family, which is the brown seaweed Undaria pinnatifida , is designated more particularly by "brown algae" .

Optionally, after rinsing, the gametophytes obtained with stage d) of preparation of the aqueous suspension of gametophytes of brown algae used in stage A) of the process of obtaining said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae as defined above , they are lyophilized, usually in a plate lyophilizer, and then ground to obtain a lyophilized powder of brown algae gametophytes. This is the reason why, according to another particular aspect, the method of obtaining said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae as defined above, further comprises:

- A step A ^or ) of preparing said aqueous suspension of brown algae gametophyte cells employed in stage A), by rehydration of a lyophilisate powder of brown algae gametophyte cells.

Step A ⁰ as defined above, is generally carried out immediately after milling the lyophilized cells by mixing the powder with water to obtain a biomass containing in particular from 5% to 50% by mass of dry extract, more particularly from 15% to 45% by mass dry extract and especially approximately 35% dry extract.

The lipophilic extract of brown algae cells obtained at the end of step D) of the process of obtaining said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes as defined above may also contain water; It is then necessary to dry this solution by adding a drying salt, for example anhydrous sodium sulfate (NaSO ⁴ ). The lipophilic extract of dry brown seaweed cells is then filtered on a paper filter made of cellulosic material. This is the reason why, according to another particular aspect, the method of obtaining said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae as defined above, further comprises:

- A step E) of drying said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes, obtained in step D).

In another more particular aspect, the extract as defined above is characterized by the cells of gametophytes algae brown employed in the process of obtaining stem from algae brown of the order Laminariales selected from brown algae of the family Alariaceae and the Laminariaceae family , more particularly of brown algae derived from the group consisting of Laminaria digitata, Laminaria saccharina, Laminaria hiperbórea, Laminaria ochroleuca and Undaria pinnatifida.

According to another even more particular aspect, the extract as defined above is characterized in that the brown algae gametophyte cells used in the process of obtaining are derived from the Undaria pinnatifida algae . The object of the invention is also the method of obtaining the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes, as defined above, which comprises the following successive steps:

- A step A) of preparing a hydroalcoholic suspension of gametophyte cells by mixing an aqueous suspension of brown algae gametophyte cells with at least one aliphatic alcohol consisting of one to four carbon atoms;

- A stage B) of mixing said hydroalcoholic suspension of algae gametophyte cells obtained in stage A), with at least one triglyceride of fatty acids consisting of eight to twenty two carbon atoms;

- A step C) of adding water to the multiphase mixture obtained in step B);

- A step D) of isolating said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes, from the mixture obtained in step C);

According to more particular modes of the procedure as defined above, this further comprises one or the other or all of the following steps:

- A stage E) for drying said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes, obtained in step D);

- A step A ⁰ ) of preparing said aqueous suspension of brown algae gametophyte cells employed in stage A), by rehydration of a lyophilisate of brown algae gametophyte cells.

According to other particular modes of the process as defined above:

- During step A), said at least one aliphatic alcohol consisting of one to four carbon atoms is selected from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol or a mixture of these alcohols; and is more particularly ethanol; I:

- During step B), said at least one fatty acid triglyceride consisting of eight to twenty two carbon atoms is a mixture of fatty acid triglycerides consisting of eight to ten carbon atoms; I:

- During stage B), the mass ratio: mass of gametophyte cells of brown algae with respect to mass of triglycerides of fatty acids consisting of eight to twenty-two carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 10 %; and is more particularly greater than or equal to 5%; I:

- The brown seaweed gametophyte cells used are derived from the brown algae of the order Laminarial selected among the brown algae of the Alariaceae family and of the Laminariaceae family , more particularly they are derived from brown algae of the group consisting of Laminaria digitata, Laminaria saccharina, Laminaria hyperborea, Laminaria ochroleuca and Undaria pinnatifida, and more particularly are derived from the Undaria pinnatifida algae .

The invention also describes the use of lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes as defined above, with the aim of preventing or delaying the appearance of signs of aging of human skin or of the lips or to eliminate said signs, said use being in a cosmetic composition, as well as a procedure with the aim of preventing or slowing down the appearance of signs of aging of the human skin or of the lips or of eliminating said signs, which includes at least one stage of application to human skin or lips, of a cosmetic composition (C1) for topical use comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient and an effective amount of the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae, as defined above.

The subject of the invention is also the composition (C1) as defined above.

In the procedure as defined above, said composition (C1) generally extends over the surface of the skin to be treated, then the skin is massaged a few moments.

The expression "for topical use" used in the definition of the composition (C1) object of the present invention means that said composition (C1) is used by application to the skin, either a direct application or an indirect application when said composition ( C1) according to the invention, it is impregnated on a support for contacting the skin (paper, wipe, tissue, transdermal device, etc.).

The term "cosmetically acceptable" used in the definition of the composition (C1) object of the present invention means according to the directive of the Council of the European Economic Community No. 76/768 / EEC of July 27, 1976 as amended by the Directive No. 93/35 / EEC of June 14, 1993, comprising any substance or preparation intended to contact the various parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and hair system, nails, lips and genital organs) or with the teeth and oral mucous membranes with the intention, exclusively and mainly, to clean, perfume, modify their appearance and / or correct body odor and / or protect them or keep them in good condition.

By effective amount of lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae as defined above, it is understood for 100% of the mass of said composition (C1), the amount comprised between 0.1% and 5% by mass, more particularly between 0.1% and 3% by mass, and even more particularly between 0.5% and 2% by mass of said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae.

The composition (C1) object of the present invention is generally presented in the form of an aqueous or hydroalcoholic or hydro-glycol solution, in the form of a suspension, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, either water-in-oil, oil-in-water type , water in oil in water or oil in water in oil, or in powder form.

The composition (C1) object of the present invention can be packaged in a bottle, in a device of the "bottle" pump type, in pressurized form in an aerosol device, in a device provided with a perforated wall such as a grid or in a device provided with a ball applicator (called "roll-on").

In general, the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes object of the present invention is associated with chemical additives that are commonly used in the field of formulations for topical use, such as foaming surfactants and / or detergents, surfactants, thickeners and / or gelling agents. , thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, solvents and co-solvents, hydrotropic agents, thermal or mineral waters, plasticizers, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers, opacifying agents, nacreous agents, degreasing agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, oils, waxes, antioxidant agents, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, conditioning agents, deodorants, bleaching agents for hair and skin discoloration, active ingredients to provide a treating and / or protective action with respect to the skin or hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, part particles that provide a visual effect or are intended for the encapsulation of assets, exfoliating particles, texture agents, optical brighteners, insect repellents.

As examples of foaming surfactants and / or detergents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1) there may be mentioned foaming surfactants and / or anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic detergents.

Among the foaming anionic surfactants and / or detergents, there may be mentioned alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, amines or alkyl ether alkyl sulfate, alkyl sulfate, alkylamido ether sulfate, alkylaryl polyether sulfate, monoglyceride sulfate, alpha-olefin sulphonates, paraffin phosphonates, , alkyl ether phosphates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkylsulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sarcosinates, acyl isethionates, N-acyl acrylates, lactylates -acylated peptides, N-acylated derivatives of proteins, N-acylated derivatives of fatty acids.

Among the foaming amphoteric surfactants and / or detergents, alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, derivatives of imidazolines, phosphobetaines, amphopolycetates and amphropropionates may be mentioned.

Among the cationic foaming surfactants and / or detergents, quaternary ammonium derivatives can be mentioned in particular.

Among the nonionic foaming surfactants and / or detergents, there may be mentioned more particularly alkyl polyglycosides consisting of a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical and consisting of 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as octyl polyglucoside, decyl polyglucoside, undecylene polyglucoside, dodecyl polyglycoside tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, 1-12 dodecanediyl polyglucoside; ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, such as the product marketed under the INCI name "Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil"; polysorbates such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 70, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 85; copra amides; N-alkylamines.

As examples of thickener and / or gelling surfactants that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), there may be mentioned optionally alkoxylated alkyl polyglycoside fatty esters, such as methyl polyglycoside esters. ethoxylates such as methyl glucose trioleate PEG 120 and methyl glucose dioleate PEG 120 marketed, respectively, under the names GLUCAMATE ™ LT and GLUMATE ™ DOE120; alkoxylated fatty esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraestearate PEG 150 marketed under the name CROTHIX ™ DS53, propylene glycol oleate PEG 55 marketed under the name ANTIL ™ 141; Fat-chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates, such as isoforyl laureth dicarbamate PPG-14 marketed under the name ELFACOS ™ T211, palmeth-60 hexyl dicarbamate PPG-14 marketed under the name ELFACOS ™ GT2125.

As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1) there may be mentioned polymers of linear, branched or crosslinked polyelectrolyte type, as homopolymer of partial salified acrylic acid or fully, partially or totally salified methacrylic acid homopolymer, 2-methyl - [(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] -1-propanesulfonic acid (AMPS) homopolymer partially or totally salified, acrylic acid and AMPS copolymers, copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and AMPS, copolymers of AMPS and acrylate of (2-hydroxyethyl), copolymers of AMPS and methacrylate of (2-hydroxyethyl), copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethylacrylamide, copolymers of AMPS and N-dimethyl amide-N-dimethylamide , AMPS and tris (hydroxylmethyl) acrylamide methane (THAM) copolymers, acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, acid copolymers acrylic or methacrylic and (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, acrylic or methacrylic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylamide copolymers, acrylic or methacrylic acid and THAM copolymers, acrylic or methacrylic acid copolymers and N, N-dimethylacrylamide, acrylic or methacrylic acid terpolymers AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, acrylic or methacrylic acid terpolymers, AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, acrylic or methacrylic acid terpolymers, AMPS and THAM, acrylic or methacrylic acid terpolymers, AMPS and N, N -dimethylacrylamide, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and acrylamide, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and alkyl acrylates whose carbon chain comprises between four and thirty carbon atoms and, more particularly, between ten and thirty carbon atoms, copolymers of AMPS and alkyl acrylates whose carbon chain comprises between four and thirty carbon atoms and, more pa in particular, between ten and thirty carbon atoms, linear, branched or crosslinked terpolymers of at least one monomer having a strong, free, partially salified or fully salified acid function, with at least one neutral monomer and at least one monomer of formula ( VIII):

CH ² = C (R ' ³ ) -C (= O) - [CH ² -CH ² -O] ⁿ -R' ⁴ (VIII)

wherein R ' ³ represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R' ⁴ represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having eight to thirty carbon atoms and n represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty .

Polyelectrolyte, linear or branched or cross-linked polymers that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), can be presented in the form of a solution, an aqueous suspension, a water-in-oil emulsion, a Oil in water emulsion, a powder. Polyelectrolyte, linear or branched or cross-linked polymers that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), can be selected from products marketed under the names SIMULGEL ™ EG, SIMULGEL ™ EPG, SEPIGEL ™ 305, SIMULGEL ™ 600, SIMULGEL ™ NS, SIMULGEL ™ INS 100, SIMULGEL ™ FL, SIMULGEL ™ A, SIMULGEL ™ SMS 88, SEPINOV ™ EMT 10, SEPIPLUS ™ 400, SEPIPLUS ™ 265, SEPIPLUS ™, SEPIMAX ™ Zen, ARISTOFLEX ™ AVC, ARISTOFLEX ™ AVS, NOVEMER ™ EC-1, NOVEMER ™ EC 2, ARISTOFLEX ™ HMB, COSMEDIA ™ SP, FLOCARE ™ ET 25, FLOCARE ™ ET 75, FLOCARE ™ ET 26, FLOCARE ™ ET 30, FLOCARE ™ ET 58, FLOCARE ™ PSD 30, VISCOLAM ™ AT 64, VISCOLAM ™ AT 100.

As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), there may be mentioned polysaccharides consisting solely of monosaccharides, such as glucans or glucose homopolymers, glucomanoglycans, xyloglycans, galactomannans whose degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units in the main D-mannose chain is between 0 and 1, and more particularly between 1 and 0.25, as cassia rubber galactomannans (DS = 1/5), Locust bean gum (DS = 1/4), tare gum (DS = 1/3), guar gum (DS) = 1/2), fenugreek gum (DS = 1).

As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), there may be mentioned polysaccharides consisting of bear derivatives, such as sulfated galactans and, more particularly, carrageenans and agar, uronanes and, more particularly, alginins, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of bears and uronic acids and more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, exudates of gum arabic and karaya gum, glycosaminoglycans.

As examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), cellulose, cellulose derivatives such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic derivatives of starch, polyurethanes.

As examples of stabilizing agents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), there may be mentioned microcrystalline waxes and, more particularly, ozoquerite, mineral salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, polymers of silicone such as polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers.

As examples of solvents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), there may be mentioned water, organic solvents such as glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol , 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, water soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, water mixtures and said organic solvents.

As examples of thermal or mineral waters that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), there may be mentioned thermal or mineral waters that have a mineralization of at least 300 mg / l, in particular Avene water , Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevard-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons le Saunier water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-bains water .

As examples of hydrotropic agents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), xylenesulfonates, cumenesulfonates, hexyl polyglucoside, 2- (ethylhexyl) polyglucoside or n-heptyl polyglucoside can be combined.

As examples of emulsifying surfactants that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), there can be mentioned nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants.

As examples of emulsifiable nonionic surfactants that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), fatty acid esters and sorbitol esters can be mentioned, such as products marketed under the names MONTANE ™ 40, MONTANE ™ 60, MONTANE ™ 70, MONTANE ™ 80 and MONTANE ™ 85; compositions comprising glycerol stearate and ethoxylated stearic acid between five moles and one hundred and fifty moles of ethylene oxide, such as the composition comprising ethoxylated stearic acid at one hundred thirty-five moles of ethylene oxide and glycerol stearate marketed under the name SIMULSOL ™ 165; manitan esters; ethoxylated captain esters; sucrose esters; methylglucoside esters; alkylpolyglycosides consisting of a linear or branched aliphatic radical, saturated or unsaturated, and consisting of fourteen to thirty-six carbon atoms, such as tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglycoside, octadecyl polyglucoside, hexadecylpolyloxide, octadecylpolylodidoxidodecyloxide, ethoxydoxide polyoxidodecyloxide, octyl (12-hydroxystearyl) polyglucoside; compositions of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols, and consisting of fourteen to thirty-six carbon atoms, and alkyl polyglycosides as described above, for example, compositions marketed under the trade names MONTANOV ™ 68, MONTANOV ™ 14, MONTANOV ™ 82, MONTANOV ™ 202, MONTANOV ™ S, MONTANOV ™ WO18, MONTANOV ™ L, FLUIDANOV ™ 20X and EASYNOV ™.

As examples of anionic surfactants that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl sulfate, soaps such as sodium stearate or triethanolammonium stearate, N-derivatives salified amino acid acylates such as stearoyl glutamate.

As examples of cationic emulsifying surfactants that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), there may be mentioned aminoxides, quaternium-82 and the surfactants described in patent application WO 96/00719 and mainly those whose Fat chain comprises at least sixteen carbon atoms.

As examples of opacifying and / or nacreous agents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), sodium palmitate, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate can be mentioned. magnesium, magnesium hydroxy stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, fatty alcohols consisting of twelve to twenty two carbon atoms.

As examples of texture agents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), there can be mentioned N-acylated amino acid derivatives, such as lauroyl lysine sold under the name AMINOHOPE ™ LL, octenyl starch succinate marketed with the name DRYFLO ™, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV ™ 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica.

As examples of deodorant agents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), there may be mentioned alkali silicates, zinc salts such as zinc sulfate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glycerol caprate, glycerol caprylate, polyglycerol caprate; 1,2-decanediol; 1,3-propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metal zeolites; TRICLOSAN ™; aluminum hydrobromide, aluminum hydrochlorides, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulfate, aluminum and zirconium hydrochlorides, aluminum and zirconium hydrochloride, aluminum and zirconium tetrahydrochloride, aluminum and zirconium pentachlorhydrate, aluminum and zirconium hydrochloride, aluminum sulfate, sodium and aluminum lactate, aluminum and glycol hydrochloride complexes, such as aluminum and propylene glycol dihydrochloride complex, aluminum and propylene glycol sesquichlorohydrate complex, aluminum and polyethylene glycol hydrochloride complex, aluminum and polyethylene glycol hydrochloride complex, sesquichlorohydrate complex of aluminum and polyethylene glycol.

As examples of oils that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), mineral oils such as paraffin oil, petrolatum oil, isoparaffins or white mineral oils may be mentioned; animal oils, such as squalene or squalene, vegetable oils, such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, copra oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil , wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cotton oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, oil of safflower, kukui oil, passionflower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, marigold oil, flower derived oils or legumes, ethoxylated vegetable oils; synthetic oils such as fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, stearate of isocetyl, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, esters derived from lanolic acid, such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids such as triheptanoate glycerol, hydrobenzoates, hydrobenzoate oils poly (alpha-olefin), polyolefins such as poly (isobutane), synthetic isoalkanes such as isohexadecane, isododecane, perfluorinated oils; silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, silicones modified with amines, silicones modified with fatty acids, silicones modified with alcohols, silicones modified with alcohols and fatty acids, silicones modified with polyether groups, silicones modified with epoxy groups, silicones modified with fluorinated groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified with alkyl groups. By "oils" is meant, in the present application, the compounds and / or mixtures of water-insoluble compounds that have a liquid appearance at a temperature of 25 ° C.

As examples of waxes that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown seaweed gametophytes in the composition (C1), there may be mentioned beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japan wax, fiber wax cork, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, brown coal waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and solid fatty acids at room temperature; solid glycerides at room temperature. By "waxes" is meant, in the present application, the compounds and / or mixtures of water insoluble compounds having a solid appearance at a temperature greater than or equal to 45 ° C.

As examples of active ingredients that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (Cl), there may be mentioned vitamins and their derivatives, especially their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (palmitate retinyl, for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, derived from ascorbic acid sugar (such as ascorbyl glycoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and Their derivatives); compounds showing a lightening or depigmenting action on the skin, such as o-undecylenyl phenylalanine marketed under the name SEPIWHITE ™ MSH, SEPICALM ™ VG, monoester and / or diester of o-undecelinoyl phenylalanine glycerol, o-undecelinoyl dipeptides, arbutin, acid kojic, hydroquinone; compounds that show a calming action especially SEPICALM ™ S, allantoin and bisabolol; anti-inflammatory agents; compounds showing a moisturizing action such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglycoside, diglycerolglycoside, polyglycerylglucoside, xylitylglucoside, the composition marketed under the trade name AQUAXYL ™, the composition marketed under the trade name PRO-XYLAN derivatives of G-derivatives and, more particularly, derivatives of C-glycosides, of C-xylosides; plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts; compounds that show a slimming or lipolytic action such as caffeine or its derivatives, ADIPOSLIM ™, ADlPOLESS ™, fucoxanthin; N-acylated proteins; N-acylated peptides such as MATRIXIL ™; N-acylated amino acids; partial hydrolysates of N-acylated proteins; amino acids; peptides; total protein hydrolysates; soy extracts, for example Raffermine ™; wheat extracts, for example, TENSINE ™ or GLIADINE ™; plant extracts, such as plant extracts rich in tannins, plant extracts rich in isoflavones or plant extracts rich in terpenes; seaweed or freshwater algae extracts; marine plant extracts; marine extracts in general as corals; essential waxes; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids; compounds that show an antimicrobial action or a purifying action, such as LIPACIDE ™ C8G, LIPACIDE ™ UG, SEPICONTROL ™ A5, FLUIDIPURE ™ 8G; OCTOPIROX ™ or SENSIVA ™ SC50; compounds that show an energizing or stimulating property, such as PHYSIOGENYL ™, panthenol and its derivatives, such as SEPICAP ™ MP; anti-aging assets such as SEPILIFT ™ DPHP, LIPACIDE ™ PVB, SEPIVINOL ™, SEPIVITAL ™, MANOLIVA ™, PHYTO-AGE ™, TIMECODE ™; SURVICODE ™; anti-aging assets; assets that protect the integrity of the dermoepidermal junction; assets that increase the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans; assets that act favorably on chemical cellular communication, such as cytokines, or physical, such as integrins; assets that create a sensation of "warming" in the skin, such as activators of skin microcirculation (such as derivatives of nicotinic acid) or products that create a sensation of "freshness" in the skin (such as menthol and derivatives); assets that improve skin microcirculation, for example venotonics; drainage assets; decongestant assets such as extracts of ginko biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, holly, asiatica, fucus, rosemary, willow; tanning agents or skin tanners, for example dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, aloxane, ninhydrin, plant extracts, for example redwood extracts of the genera Pterocarpus and Baphia such as Pterocarpus santalinus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida as described in European patent application EP 0971 683; agents known for their action to facilitate and / or accelerate the tanning and / or the attack of human skin, and / or for their coloring action of human skin, for example, caratenoids (and more particularly beta-carotene and gamma carotene), the product marketed under the trade name "Carrot oil" (INCI name: Daucus Carota, helianthus annuus Sunflower oil) by the Provital company, which contains carotenoids, vitamin E and vitamin K; tyrosine and / or its derivatives, known for their effect on the acceleration of tanning of human skin in association with exposure to ultraviolet radiation, for example, the product marketed under the trade name "SunTan Accelerator ™" by the company Provital that Contains tyrosine and riboflavin (vitamin B), the tyrosine and tyrosinase complex marketed under the trade name "Zymo Tan Complex" by the company Zymo Line, the product marketed under the trade name MelanoBronze ™ (INCI name: Acetyl Tyrosine, Monk's pepper extract (Vitex Agnus-castus) by the company Mibelle containing acetyl tyrosine, product marketed under the trade name Unipertan VEG-24/242/2002 (INCI name: butylene glycol and Acetyl Tyrosina and hydrolyzed vegetable protein and Adenosine triphosphate) by the company UNIPEX , the product marketed under the trade name "Try-Excell ™" (INCI name: Oleoyl Tyrosine and Luffa Cylindrica) (Seed) Oil and Oleic Acid) by the Sederma company that contains pumpkin seed extracts (or Lufa oil), the product marketed under the trade name "Actibronze ™" (INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) by the company Alban Muller, the product marketed under the trade name Tyrostan ™ (INCI name: potassium caproyl tyrosine) by the company Synerga, the product marketed under the trade name Tyrosinol (INCI name: Sorbitan Isostearate, glyceryl oleate, caproyl Tyrosine) by the company Synerga , the product marketed under the trade name InstaBronze ™ (INCI name: Dihydroxyacetone and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) marketed by the company Alban Muller, the product marketed under the trade name Tyrosilane (INCI name: methylsilanol and acetyl tyrosine) by the company Exymol ; peptides known for their melanogenesis activation effect, for example, the product marketed under the trade name Bronzing SF Peptide powder (INCI name: Dextran and Octapeptide-5) by the company Infinitec Activos, the product marketed under the trade name Melitane (name INCI: Glycerin and Aqua and Dextran and Acetyl hexapeptide-1), which comprises acetyl hexapeptide-1, known for its agonist action of alpha-MSH, the product marketed under the trade name Melatimes Solutions ™ (INCI name: Butylene glycol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-40) by the LIPOTEC company, sugars and sugar derivatives, for example, the product marketed under the trade name Tanositol ™ (INCI name: inositol) by the Provital company, the product marketed under the trade name Thalitan ™ (or Phycosaccharide ™ AG) by CODIF International (INCI name: Aqua and hydrolyzed algin (Laminaria Digitata) and magnesium sulfate and manganese sulfate) containing an oligosaccharide of marine origin (guluronic acid and manuronic acid chelated with magnesium and manganese ions), the product sold under the trade name Melactiva ™ (INCI name: Maltodextrin, Mucuna Pruriens Seed extract) by the company Alban Muller, flavonoid-rich compounds, for example, the product marketed under the trade name "Biotanning" (INCI name: Hydrolyzed citrus Aurantium dulcis fruit extract) by the Silab company and known to be rich in lemon flavonoids (hesperidin type); agents for the treatment of hair and / or hair, for example, protective agents of hair follicle melanocytes, to protect said melanocytes against the cytotoxic agents responsible for senescence and / or apoptosis of said melanocytes, such as mimetic agents of DOPAchrome tautomerase activity selected from those described in the European patent application published under EP No. 515 688 A2, synthetic mimetic molecules of SOD, for example manganese complexes, antioxidant compounds, for example cyclodextrin derivatives, silica compounds derivatives of ascorbic acid, lysine or arginine pyrrolidone carboxylate, associations of mono- and diester of cinnamic acid and vitamin C, and more generally those cited in the European patent application published under the number EP 1515688 A2.

As examples of antioxidants that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), EDTA and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylhydroxyanisole), BHT (butylhydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as DISSOLVINE ™ GL 47S marketed by the Akzo Nobel company under the name INCI: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate. As examples of sunscreens that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), all those included in the cosmetic directive 76/768 / EEC modified Annex VII can be mentioned.

Among the organic solar filters that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), the family of benzoic acid derivatives, such as paraaminobenzoic acids (PABA), in particular PABA monoglycerol esters, can be mentioned , N, N-propoxy PABA ethyl esters, N, N-diethoxy PABA ethyl esters, N, N-dimethyl PABA ethyl esters, N, N-dimethyl PABA methyl esters, N, N-dimethyl PABA butyl esters ; the family of derivatives of anthranilic acid, such as homomentyl-N-acetyl anthranilate; the family of derivatives of salicylic acid such as amyl salicylate, homomentyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, (p-isopropanol phenyl) salicylate; the family of cinnamic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxypropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisoamyl cinnamate, pmethoxyoctyl, (p-methoxy-2-ethylhexyl) cinnamate, (p-methoxy-2-ethoxyethyl) cinnamate, (pmethoxycyclohexyl) cinnamate, ethyl-a-cyano-p-phenyl cinnamate, (2-ethylhexyl cinnamate ) -a-cyano-p-phenyl, glyceryl diparamethoxy mono-2-ethylhexanoyl cinnamate; the benzophenone family of derivatives, such as 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy 4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy 4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy 4-methoxy 4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy 4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, (2-ethylhexyl) 4'-phenyl benzophenone-2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy 4- (n-octyloxy) benzophenone, 4-hydroxy 3-carboxybenzophenone; 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) d, l-camphor, 3- (benzylidene) d, l-camphor, camphor benzalkonium methosulfate; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate; the family of sulfonic acid derivatives, such as 2-phenylbenzimidazol-5 sulfonic acid and its salts; the family of triazine derivatives, such as hydroxyphenyltriazine, (ethylhexyloxy) (hydroxyphenyl) (4-methoxyphenyl) triazine, 2,4,6-trianiline-p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy) -1,3 , 5-triazine, 4,4 - ((6 - (((1,1-dimethylethyl) amino) carbonyl) phenyl) amino) -1,3,5-triazine-2,4-diyl diimino) bis (2- ethylhexyl) benzoic acid ester, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazol, 2- (2'-hydroxy 5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2-hydroxy 5'-t-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2'- 5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole hydroxy; dibenzazine; dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy 4 "-t-butylbenzoylmethane, 5- (3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene) -3-pentan-2-one, the family of diphenylacrylate derivatives such as (2-ethylhexyl) 2-cyano -3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, ethyl-2-cyano 3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate; the polysiloxane family such as benzylidene siloxane malonate.

Among the inorganic sunscreens, also called "mineral protectors", which can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes in the composition (C1), mention may be made of titanium oxides, zinc oxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide , yellow, red or black iron oxides, chromium oxides. These mineral protectors may or may not be micronized, whether or not they have undergone surface treatments and may occur in the form of aqueous or oily predispersions.

The object of the invention is also the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes, as defined above, for use in a method of therapeutic treatment of the signs of aging of the human skin or lips, applied to the human body.

The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting it.

Lists of proven extracts

Extract A (according to the invention): gametophyte extract of Undaria pinnatifida

Extract B (according to the state of the art): Extract BB from example 3 of French patent application FR 2880803 A1

Extract C (according to the state of the art): sporophyte extract of Undaria pinnatifida, obtained by extraction in a mixture of water and glycerol.

Biological efficacy of the extracts tested.

In vitro study

The model chosen to show the technical effect of the extract according to the invention is a study model of gene expression in human skin explants. The so-called genomic or transcriptomic tests are very widely used in different fields, such as cosmetics, to highlight the biological benefits. The work on explants of human skin allows to be in more physiological conditions than the work in cell cultures in monolayer.

Human skin explants approximately 10 mm in diameter, from 2 Caucasian and female donors (49 years and 46 years old, from abdominal operation wastes) were collected. They were then put to survival in a specific BEM medium (Bio-Ec Explant Medium) at 37 ° C in a humid atmosphere at 5% CO2. The products indicated in table 1 were applied over a period of 24 hours.

Table 1: Modalities of product application

The products were prepared in a hydroalcoholic gel with 2.5% ethanol for topical applications and with 1% ethanol in the culture medium to solubilize them. Thus, 3 explants were prepared per condition. After 24 h, the total RNAs were extracted and then a quantitative and qualitative analysis was performed to determine their concentration and level of purity and integrity before subjecting them to an amplification stage. 50 ng of RNA was then used and then transcribed to obtain a complementary DNA. It was then amplified by the quantitative PCR (polymerase chain reaction) (qPCR) technique with the help of specific 3 gene probes: GAPDH (maintenance, control gene), HIF-1a and SIRT-1, and a marker fluorescent, the SYBR Green that allows the monitoring of the amplification reaction in real time. The PCR operates by cycles and the number of cycles (Cq) performed for each target is notified, so that it can be detected. This cycle value is subtracted after that of GAPDH to normalize the effects obtained, and then an expression ratio is calculated with respect to the vehicle condition (RQ).

For each extract tested and for each gene of interest, the following amounts are calculated:

ACq (extract i) = Cq (gene of interest) - Cq (reference gene),

with:

- Cq (gene of interest) representing the average number of cycles performed and necessary to obtain a signal for a given extract and a gene of given interest;

- Cq (reference gene) representing the average number of cycles performed and necessary to obtain a signal for a given extract and a reference gene (here, GAPDH).

For each gene of interest and for each extract tested, it is calculated

AACq = ACq (extract i) - ACq of the vehicle.

For each extract tested and for each gene of interest, the RQ value is calculated according to:

RQ = 2'AACq

The results of the variation are presented in table # 2 below.

Table 2: Results of gene expression obtained

(a): experiment performed with compound A

(b): experiment performed with other compounds

Extract A ( Undaria pinnatifida gametophyte extract ) makes it possible to induce the overexpression of the HIF-1a and SIRT-1 genes with respect to the vehicle condition. The other compounds do not allow to induce the expression of these genes. The present results show the additional technical effect of the invention with respect to the closest state of the art represented by the aqueous sporophyte extract of Undaria pinnatifida (extract C), and by the BB extract of the patent application Fr 2880803 A1 (extract B).

In vivo study

A clinical study, carried out in a representative panel of subjects (25 women), showed the effect of reducing the roughness of the skin micro-relief and the average depth of wrinkles at the level of the area of the "crow's foot" associated with the application on the area in question of the skin of a cosmetic formulation consisting of an effective amount of extract A according to the invention compared to the application, on the same area of the skin, of a "placebo" cosmetic formulation that does not It comprises said extract A and this for two months.

Another clinical study, carried out in a representative panel of subjects (mixed panel comprising 20 people), allowed to demonstrate the effect of improving the antioxidant capacity of the skin associated with the application on the skin of a cosmetic formulation consisting of a effective amount of extract A according to the invention compared to the application on the skin of a "placebo" cosmetic formulation that does not comprise said extract A, after 14 and 28 days of applications. This effect has been demonstrated by using the ferric iron reducing antioxidant power test (called the "FRAP" method).

Another clinical evaluation was carried out in this same representative panel of subjects and allowed to demonstrate the effect of improving the resistance of the skin against the stress induced by exposure to ultraviolet A radiation, associated with the application on the skin of a formulation Cosmetic comprising an effective amount of extract A according to the invention compared to the application on the skin of a cosmetic formulation "placebo" that does not comprise said extract A, after 14 and 28 days of applications. This effect was demonstrated by using the method of dosing Malondialdehyde (or "MDA"), the main product of lipid peroxidation, by the method of Erdelmeier et al., 1998, based on the capacity of a chromogen, NMPI ( N-methyl-2-phenylindole) to react with MDA at 45 ° C and acidic pH to produce a stable chromophore with an absorption peak at 586 nm.

Claims (12)

1. Procedure for obtaining a lipophilic extract of brown seaweed gametophytes, comprising the following successive stages: - A step A) of preparing a hydroalcoholic suspension of gametophyte cells by mixing an aqueous suspension of brown algae gametophyte cells with at least one aliphatic alcohol consisting of one to four carbon atoms; - A stage B) of mixing said hydroalcoholic suspension of algae gametophyte cells obtained in stage A) with at least one triglyceride of fatty acids consisting of eight to twenty two carbon atoms; - A step C) of adding water to the multiphase mixture obtained in step B); - A step D) of isolating said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes, from the mixture obtained in step C). 2. The method as defined in claim 1, according to which, during step A), said at least one aliphatic alcohol consisting of one to four carbon atoms is selected from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol or a mixture of these alcohols. 3. The method as defined in claim 2, according to which, during step A), said at least one aliphatic alcohol consisting of one to four carbon atoms is ethanol. 4. The process as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein, during step B), said at least one fatty acid triglyceride consisting of eight to twenty two carbon atoms is a mixture of acid triglycerides fatty that consist of eight to ten carbon atoms. 5. The method as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, according to which, during step B), the mass ratio: mass of brown algae gametophyte cells relative to triglyceride mass of fatty acids consisting of eight to twenty two carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 10%. 6. The method as defined in claim 5, according to which, during step B), said mass ratio: mass of brown algae gametophyte cells relative to triglyceride mass of fatty acids consisting of eight to twenty two carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 5%. 7. The method as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising a step A0) of preparing said aqueous brown algae gametophyte cell suspension employed in step A) by rehydration of a lyophilisate of cells from Brown algae gametophytes. 8. The method as defined in claim 1, further comprising: - A step E) of drying said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes obtained in step D). 9. Method according to claim 7, further comprising: - A step E) of drying said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes obtained in step D). 10. The method as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the brown algae gametophyte cells used originate from the Undaria pinnatifida algae . 11. Procedure for obtaining a lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae that originate from the Undaria pinnatifida algae , which comprises the following successive stages: - A step A0) of preparing said aqueous suspension of brown algae gametophyte cells employed in stage A) by rehydration of a lyophilisate powder of brown algae gametophyte cells; - A step A) of preparing a hydroalcoholic suspension of gametophyte cells by mixing an aqueous suspension of brown algae gametophyte cells with ethanol; - A stage B) of mixing said hydroalcoholic suspension of algae gametophyte cells obtained in stage A) with at least one mixture of triglycerides of fatty acids consisting of eight to eighteen carbon atoms, so that the mass ratio : mass of brown algae gametophyte cells relative to triglyceride mass of fatty acids consisting of eight to twenty-two carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 5% and less than or equal to 10%; - A step C) of adding water to the multiphase mixture obtained in step B); - A step D) of isolating said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes, from the mixture obtained in step C). - A step E) of drying said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes obtained in step D). 12. Cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount, the lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes obtained by the process as defined in any one of claims 1 to 11, and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.