ES2357067T3 - COMPOSITION THAT INCLUDES AT LEAST A C-GLICOSIDE DERIVATIVE AND AT LEAST A HIALURONIC ACID AND ITS COSMETIC USE. - Google Patents

Abstract

Topical cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its alkaline salts, or an hyaluronic acid ester, selected from the methyl, ethyl, N-propyl esters, N -pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl of hyaluronic acid, and at least one C-glycoside derivative, said C-glycoside derivative responding to the following general formula (I): methyl. wherein: - R designates a linear radical in C1-C4, - X represents a group -CH (OH) -, and - S represents D-xylose, - the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of nature C -anomeric, which can be α or ß. as well as its cosmetically acceptable salts, and its solvents such as hydrates.

Description

 The present invention relates to the field of skin care and / or its annexes.

 The subject of the invention is a topical cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives, and at least one C-glycoside derivative. 5

 The present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin and / or its annexes, intended to improve the barrier function comprising at least one stage consisting of applying at least one composition on the skin such as It has been defined above.

 In particular, the composition of the invention is intended to improve the skin's barrier function. It thus finds a use in the hydration of the skin, in the improvement of the flexibility of the skin, in the improvement and / or in the decrease of the micro-relief of the skin, as well as in the fight against the cutaneous signs of aging .

 Human skin consists of two compartments, namely a deep compartment, the dermis and a superficial compartment, the epidermis.

 The dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support. It also constitutes its nutritional element. It consists mainly of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix composed mainly of collagen, elastin and a substance, called fundamental substance, components synthesized by the fibroblast. There are also leukocytes, mast cells or also tissue macrophages. It also contains blood vessels and nerve fibers.

 The epidermis is in contact with the outside environment.

 The natural human epidermis is mainly composed of three types of cells, which are keratinocytes, the majority, melanocytes and Langerhans cells.

 The cells that constitute the epidermis are limited by an intercellular lipid domain.

 Each of these cell types contributes, due to its own functions, to the essential role played by the skin in the body. In particular, keratinocytes undergo a process of continuous and oriented maturation that when keratinocytes are found in the basal layer of the epidermis, leads to the formation of corneocytes, which are 25 fully keratinized dead cells constituted by keratinocytes in terminal phase of their differentiation .

 During differentiation, phospholipids whose role is to develop the fluid structure of the cell membranes of the living layers of the epidermis, are gradually replaced by a mixture composed mostly of fatty acids, cholesterol and sphingolipids (ceramides ). These lipids, which are organized in specific lamellar liquid crystal phases, form the intracellular cement of the stratum corneum and are essential for the 30 exchanges in water and the barrier function of the epidermis. Thus, the lamellar structure of the lipid domain of the epidermis and corneocytes participate in the epidermal barrier function.

 The skin thus constitutes a barrier against external aggressions, in particular chemical, mechanical or infectious, and for this, a certain number of defense reactions against environmental factors (climate, ultraviolet rays, tobacco, etc.) occur at its level. and / or xenobiotics, such as, for example, microorganisms.

 This property, called the barrier function, is mainly secured by the most superficial layer of the epidermis, namely the corneal layer, called stratum corneum.

 It is clear that the quality and balance of the skin barrier and mucous membranes depends on complex endogenous biological mechanisms that involve numerous growth factors, adhesion molecules, hormones and lipid metabolism enzymes.

 Thus, an alteration of the skin barrier can occur in the presence of external aggressions of the type irritating agents (detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducers, concentrated solvents, toxic gases or fumes), mechanical stresses (friction, shock, abrasion, tearing of the surface, projection of dust, particles, shaving or depilation), thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, drought, radiation), xenobiotics 45 (undesirable microorganisms, allergens) or internal aggressions of the psychological stress type.

 The people most particularly affected by this alteration of the barrier function by external aggressions may be the following:

- people with skin called "fragile" or "delicate" and vulnerable that quickly become unbalanced during variations in temperature or relative humidity of great amplitude (in the case of baby skins for example);

- people with skin called "fragile", which groups in particular

- persons whose protective hydrolipidic film composed of sweat, sebum and factors of

Natural hydration is rare, as is the case of people over 60 years of age and in particular in the framework of the elderly (at least 75 years);

- persons whose composition of the hydrolipidic film is modified, as is the case of diabetic or dialyzed persons, or who suffer from certain diseases;

- people who have a decreased reactivity threshold due to neurogenic hyperactivity; These 5 skins will therefore present these sensations and these clinical signs much faster and more frequently than the other types of skins: they are people with sensitive skin.

 You can also talk about people with "attacked" skin for shaved skin for example.

 An alteration of the cutaneous barrier function can be translated in particular by a disorder of hydration, by a loss of flexibility of the skin, by an alteration of the brightness of the skin, by the appearance of a roughness on the skin and more generally by the appearance of skin signs of aging.

 It is therefore appropriate to seek to increase epidermal differentiation to reinforce the skin's barrier function.

 In particular, it seeks to improve and / or strengthen the skin barrier function to:

- to alleviate the problems of hydration of the skin and / or its annexes, in particular of the mucous membranes, and particularly treat dry skin, 15

- improve skin flexibility,

- maintain and / or improve the brightness of the complexion,

- prevent and / or treat the roughness or micro-relief of the skin that can be manifested by varicella or acne marks,

- blur the skin signals and / or skin imperfections related to skin aging 20 among which we can mention the alteration of the viscoelastic or biomechanical properties of the skin, the alteration of the cohesion of the tissues, the thinning of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and / or small wrinkles, the appearance of a darkening and / or yellowing of the skin, and the appearance of old age spots or senescence or lentigo.

 The cutaneous signs of aging can be of actinic origin. 25

 Sugars and sugar derivatives are products already used for various purposes for the formulation of cosmetic compositions intended for both skin care and care and / or washing of keratin fibers.

 Thus, in WO 99/24009, D-xylose and its derivatives are proposed for the purpose of preparing cosmetic or pharmaceutical products that envisage improving the functionality of the cells of the epidermis. 30

 Among the sugars that can be used in this field, C-glycoside derivatives seem very particularly interesting. Some C-glycoside derivatives have shown in particular interesting biological properties, in particular to fight against the aging of the epidermis and / or against the drying of the skin. Such compounds are described in particular in WO 02/051828.

 These compounds act by stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans containing a D-glucosamine and / or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine residue and are represented by the formula:

 in which S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide, R represents different linear or cyclic radicals and the group X can represent a group selected from: -CO-, -CH (NR1R2) -, -CHR'-, -C (= CHR3) -, R1, R2, R 'and R3 can represent different radicals, including the hydroxyl radical for R1, R2 and R3. 40

 However, these derivatives had not been used so far for the purpose of improving and / or strengthening the skin barrier function, and even less in association with hyaluronic acid.

 Hyaluronic acid is a major glycosaminoglycan located at the skin level. Thus, fibroblasts synthesize mostly collagen, matrix glycoproteins different from collagen (fibronectin, laminin), proteoglycans and elastin. Keratinocytes synthesize mostly 45 sulfated glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is also called hyaluronan (HA).

 Hyaluronic acid is present in a free state at the level of the epidermis and in the dermis, and is responsible for the skin's turgidity. This polysaccharide can effectively retain a large volume of water, which corresponds to up to 1,000 times its weight. In this sense, hyaluronic acid plays an important role in increasing the amounts of water bound in the tissue, as well as in the mechanical properties of the skin and in the formation of wrinkles. fifty

 The inventors have discovered that certain C-glycoside derivatives associated with hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives allowed to improve and / or strengthen the skin's barrier function.

 The inventors have demonstrated in particular that the association according to the invention has a synergistic effect on the activity of keratinocyte transglutaminase (TGk). This association thus allows an improvement of epidermal homeostasis. 5

 The association according to the invention has the property of activating TGk, an essential factor in the terminal differentiation of keratinocytes and their corneification.

 TGk is an enzyme that belongs to the family of transpeptidases. It is a calcium-dependent enzyme that catalyzes the formation of ε (γ-glutamyl) lysine isopeptide bridges between epidermal proteins and therefore favors the formation of corneal envelopes. 10

 The invention also relates according to a first of its aspects, to a topical cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives, and at least one C- derivative glycoside

 It also refers according to another of its aspects to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention or of at least one C-glycoside derivative and of at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives in a topical composition to improve and / or strengthen the skin's barrier function.

 It also refers according to another of its aspects to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention or of at least one C-glycoside derivative and of at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives, in a topical composition, to improve and / or strengthen the protection of the skin against external aggressions.

 It also refers, according to yet another of its aspects, to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention or of at least one C-glycoside derivative and of at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives, in topical compositions to improve the hydration of the skin and / or its annexes, prevent and / or treat roughness or micro-relief and / or improve the brightness of the skin and / or to improve the flexibility of the skin and / or its annexes and / or to blur the aging skin signals.

 The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method intended to improve and / or strengthen the barrier function and / or hydration and / or resistance to external aggressions of the skin and / or its annexes and / or for fight against the cutaneous signs of aging, characterized in that an effective amount of at least one C-glycoside derivative of at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives, or a composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or its annexes.

 More particularly, the procedure provides for blurring the aging skin signals of actinic origin.

 It is intended in particular for people with mature skin, even very mature.

 By the term "mature skin" according to the invention, it is understood in particular people who are at least 40 years old.

 By the term "very mature skin" according to the invention, it is understood in particular people who are 35 years old at least 50 years old, particularly at least 60 years old, even 65 years old.

 According to another embodiment, said composition may be intended to improve and / or strengthen the barrier function of a skin selected from a fragile skin, a fragile skin, an attacked skin and / or a sensitive skin.

 Within the framework of the invention, the composition can be used for application on healthy, subject skin or that may be subjected to external aggressions such as those described above. In other particular cases, the composition of the invention can be applied to the skin when it shows clinical signs of cutaneous barrier deficit.

 Thus, the invention aims at the use of at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives and at least one C-glycoside derivative, for the preparation of a particular dermatological topical composition intended to improve and / or strengthen the skin barrier function. Four. Five

 Another aspect of the present invention is therefore the use of at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives and at least one C-glycoside derivative, for the preparation of a particular dermatological topical composition intended to improve and / or strengthen the barrier function of an injured skin, in particular of a skin that needs repair and / or tissue regeneration.

 Lastly, the object of the invention is the association of at least one hyaluronic acid or at least one of its derivatives, and of at least one C-glycoside derivative for use in the improvement and / or reinforcement of the barrier function of an injured skin, in particular of a skin that needs repair and / or tissue regeneration.

 The composition according to the invention may be intended in particular to improve healing or stimulate the

repair and / or tissue regeneration.

 Tissue repair may be necessary in all cases in which the skin has lesions of any origin, in particular due to damage caused by UV rays or external aggressions of contamination or stress.

 Within the framework of the present invention, the term "viscoelastic or biomechanical properties of the skin" means the properties of extensibility, tonicity, firmness, flexibility and / or elasticity of the skin. A skin that manifests said alteration of its viscoelastic or biomechanical properties can be described as soft skin, flaccid skin, less firm skin, less elastic or also sunken skin.

 The alteration of the "cohesion of the tissues" is manifested by the alteration of the biomechanical properties of the skin, the thinning of the skin and the decrease of the cellular metabolism of the skin. 10

 The expression "skin and / or its annexes" means in particular the skin, mucous membranes, lips, scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows and hair.

 The term "effective amount" means respective amounts of two active agents that allow the manifestation of the desired synergistic effect.

 The association according to the invention may be formulated in the same topical composition or in two different topical compositions, which may be applied to the skin and / or its annexes either simultaneously, or successively or spaced in time.

HYALURONIC ACID

 Within the framework of the present invention, the expression "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" encompasses in particular the base motif of the hyaluronic acid of formula:

 It is the smallest fraction of hyaluronic acid comprising a disaccharide dimer, namely D-glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.

 The term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes within the framework of the present invention the linear polymer comprising the polymer unit described above, according to a chain by about 25 alternating glycosidic bonds β (1,4) and β (1 , 3), which has a molecular weight (PM) that can be between 380 and 13,000,000 daltons. This molecular weight depends mostly on the source of hyaluronic acid and / or the preparation procedures.

 The term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes within the framework of the present invention the salts of the hyaluronic acid and in particular the alkaline salts such as the sodium salt and the potassium salt. 30

 In the natural state, hyaluronic acid is present in peri-cellular gels, in the base substance of the connective tissues of vertebral organs such as the dermis and epithelial tissues and in particular in the epidermis, in the synovial joint fluid , in the vitreous humor, in the human umbilical cord and in the crystal galli process.

 Thus, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" comprises the set of fractions or sub-units of hyaluronic acid having a molecular weight in particular in the molecular weight range mentioned above.

 Within the framework of the present invention, it is preferred to use hyaluronic acid fractions that do not exhibit any inflammatory activity.

 By way of illustration of the different hyaluronic acid fractions, reference may be made to the document "Hyaluronan fragments: an information-rich system", R. Stern et al., European Journal of Cell Biology 58 40 (2006) 699-715, which reviews the classified biological activities of hyaluronic acid based on its molecular weight.

 According to a privileged embodiment of the invention, the hyaluronic acid fractions adapted to the application provided for by the present invention have a molecular weight between 50,000 and 5,000,000, in particular between 100,000 and 5,000,000, particularly between 400,000 and 5,000 .000 Da. There is talk in this case of high molecular weight hyaluronic acid.

 Alternatively, the hyaluronic acid fractions that may also be adapted to the application

provided by the present invention have a molecular weight between 50,000 and 400,000 Da. There is talk in this case of hyaluronic acid of intermediate molecular weight.

 Alternatively also, the hyaluronic acid fractions that can be adapted to the application provided by the present invention have a molecular weight of less than 50,000 Da. There is talk in this case of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid. 5

 Finally, the term "hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives" also includes esters of hyaluronic acid, in particular those in which all or part of the carboxylic groups of the acid functions are esterified with alcohols or oxyethylene alkyls, comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular with a substitution index at the level of D-glucuronic acid of hyaluronic acid between 0.5 and 50%. 10

 Methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid may also be mentioned. Such esters have been described in particular in D. Campoccia et al. "Semisynthetic resorbable materials from hyaluronan esterification", Biomaterials 19 (1998) 2101-2127.

 The molecular weights indicated above are also valid for esters of hyaluronic acid.

 Hyaluronic acid can be supplied in particular by the HYACTIVE company under the trade name 15 CPN (PM: 10 to 150 kDa), by the SOLIANCE company under the trade name CRISTALHYAL (PM: 1.1 · 106), by the BIOLAND company with the name of NUTRA HA (PM: 820,000 Da), by the BIOLAND company with the name of NUTRA AF (PM: 69,000 Da), by the BIOLAND company with the name of OLIGO HA (PM: 6,100 Da) or also by the VAM FARMACOSMETICA company with the name of D FACTOR (PM: 380 Da).

 In one embodiment, the hyaluronic acid is present in the form of spheres. In particular, these 20 spheres are marketed by the BASF company under the name of SPHERE d’ACIDE HYALURONIQUE. It is a mixture of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights, namely PM 1,5,106, 400,000 and 600,000 Da.

 Hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives is present in the composition according to the present invention in a content between 0.001 and 20%, preferably between 0.01 and 10% and more particularly between 0.01 and 5% by weight, with respect to to the total weight of the composition. 25

C-GLYCOSID DERIVATIVES

 A C-glycoside derivative that is suitable for the invention can be a compound of the following general formula (I):

 in which: 30

- X represents a group -CH (OH) -,

- S represents the D-xylose,

- the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric nature bond, which can be α or β.

 Acceptable salts for the non-therapeutic use of the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, iodohydric acid, phosphoric acid, and boric acid, can be cited. Mention may also be made of salts of organic acids, which may comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic, or phosphonic acid groups. It can be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may further comprise one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may also be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.

 When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acidic group, neutralization of the acidic group (s) can be effected by a mineral base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) 2, NH4OH, Mg (OH) 2 or Zn (OH) 2; or by an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may comprise one or more nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and may therefore comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functions; in particular, amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine, dimethylamino-2-propanol, 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) -1,3-propanediol can be mentioned. Mention may also be made of lysine or 2- (dimethylamino) propylamine.

 Acceptable solvates for the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional solvates 50 such as those formed during the last stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. By way of example, solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol can be cited.

 The C-glycoside derivatives of formula (I), used according to the invention, are:

1. C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;

2. C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane

 According to a particular embodiment, the C-glycoside derivative can be C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane in the form of a 30% by weight solution of active matter in a water / proplenglycol mixture (60 / 40% in 5 weight) such as the product manufactured by CHIMEX under the trade name "MEXORYL SBB".

 Obviously, according to the invention, a C-glycoside derivative that responds to formula (I) can be used alone or in admixture with other C-glycoside derivatives and in any proportion.

 A C-glycoside derivative that is suitable for the invention can be obtained in particular by the synthesis procedure described in WO 02/051828. 10

 The amount of C-glycoside derivative to be used in a composition according to the invention depends on the desired cosmetic or therapeutic effect, and can therefore vary over a wide range.

 The person skilled in the art can easily, based on his general knowledge, determine the appropriate amounts.

 A composition according to the invention may comprise a C-glycoside derivative at a rate of about 15,0001% to about 25% by weight of active matter with respect to the total weight of the composition, and in particular from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of active material, and more particularly from about 0.05% to about 5% by weight of active material of C-glycoside derivative with respect to the total weight of the composition.

 Within the framework of the present invention, the weight ratio between hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives and the C-glycoside derivative, in the composition, can be comprised between 0.001 and 1,000, in particular between 1 and 10, and very particularly between 2 and 4.

Galenic

 The association of at least one C-glycoside derivative and at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives according to the invention is preferably formulated for topical administration, that is to say that it contains a cosmetic or dermatologically acceptable medium. , that is, a medium compatible with the skin, nails, mucous membranes, tissues, scalp and / or hair.

 It is also evident that the effective amount of the active agents corresponds to the amount necessary to obtain the desired result, and that the formulation of the compositions according to the invention depends on the use to which these compositions are intended. 30

 In particular, two broad categories of topical compositions according to the invention can be distinguished, depending on the conditions in which they will be applied to the skin.

 The first category corresponds to cosmetic compositions, that is, intended to be applied to healthy skin in order to improve its aesthetics and in particular its comfort. Healthy skin is defined by the absence of pathologies such as infections, inflammation, erythema, or wounds such as burns or cuts. However, in this definition, healthy skin does not mean skin in perfect condition.

 In particular, healthy skin may show signs of dryness that may be of exogenous origin (the skin becomes dry, for example during exposure to dry and very cold air), or of endogenous psychological origin (for example at the time of the hormonal fall due to menopause).

 The cosmetic composition is thus formulated to be applied to the skin and / or its annexes and comprises at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives and at least one C-glycoside derivative, allowing said composition to improve the barrier function.

 According to the invention, the association of the C-glycoside derivative and the hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives can also be used for the preparation of a more precisely dermatological therapeutic composition, intended to improve the condition of an injured skin, skin type that it needs a repair and / or a tissue regeneration at the level of the dermis, epidermis and dermo-epidermal junction.

 The lesion considered can be of any origin, for example infectious, allergic, nervous or traumatic. A therapeutic composition can be applied directly to the injured site or in its proximity.

 Thus, the invention also relates to the use of the association of at least one C-glycoside derivative and at least one hyaluronic acid or at least one of its derivatives for the preparation of a topical composition formulated for a therapeutic use, for example on an injured skin such as a skin that needs tissue repair at the level of the dermis, epidermis and dermo-epidermal junction.

 The composition will then be formulated with a pharmaceutically acceptable carrier.

 According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition has a pH close to that of the skin, between 4 and 7.

 When applied topically, the composition according to the invention can be applied to the face, neck, scalp, mucous membranes and nails or any other skin area of the body including hands and feet.

 By the term "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant to designate a medium compatible with the skin and / or its annexes or the keratin materials and / or fibers of human beings, such as, for example, in a non-limiting manner, the skin, mucous membranes, nails, scalp and / or hair.

 This physiologically acceptable medium comprises water, optionally in admixture or not with one or more organic solvents such as C1-C8 alcohols, in particular ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, polyols such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol and polyol ethers. 10

 They are in particular in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, of lotion or serum type dispersions, of anhydrous or oily gels, of emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of milk type, obtained by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or inversely (W / O), of multiple emulsions (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O), of suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of type cream, gel, in particular aqueous, of microemulsions, of dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase with the help of polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or of lipid vesicles of ionic and / or non-ionic type ( liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes), of nanoemulsions, or of thin films, or also of microcapsules, of micro-particles. A composition according to the invention can also be used in the form of a water and oil biphase.

 The amounts of the different constituents of the compositions used according to the invention are those commonly used in the fields considered.

 These compositions are prepared according to the usual procedures.

 In addition, the compositions used according to the invention can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, or a foam. They can be applied eventually on the skin in aerosol form. They can also be presented in solid form and, for example, in bar form.

 According to a particular mode of the invention, the composition is presented in the form of a transparent gel. In particular, this transparent gel is characterized in that it is obtained by associating the active agents with a homopolymer of a sulfonic group monomer. More particularly, said gel contains 0 to 1% oil.

 Polymers comprising at least one sulfonic group monomer, used in this type of transparent gel, are advantageously water soluble or water dispersible or water swellable. The polymers used for this type of transparent gel are homopolymers capable of being obtained from at least one ethylenic unsaturation monomer and sulphonic group, which may be free or partially or totally neutralized.

 Preferably, the polymers used for this type of transparent gel can be partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base (soda, potash, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono, di or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, the N- methyl glucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are generally neutralized. It is understood in the present invention by the term "neutralized", polymers totally or practically completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%. 40

 These polymers generally have a number average molecular weight between 1,000 and 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably between 20,000 and 5,000,000 and more preferably still between 100,000 and 1,500,000 g / mol.

 These polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or uncrosslinked.

 The sulfonic group monomers of the polymer used in these transparent gels are selected in particular from vinyl sulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth) acrylamido-alkyl (C1-C22) sulfonic acids, N-alkyl (C1) acids -C22) - (meth) acrylamido-alkyl (C1-C22) -sulfonic acids such as undecyl-acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.

 According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the sulfonic group monomers are selected from (meth) acrylamido-C 1 -C 22 alkyl-sulfonic acids such as for example acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-ethanesulfonic acid. , acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecyl sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, as well as its partially or totally neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.

 More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) is used as well as its partially or completely neutralized forms.

 As other polymers adapted for this type of gel, it is possible to mention in particular the cross-linked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, marketed by the company Clariant under the trade name "Hostacerin® AMPS" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide, INCI name: Ammonium polyacryloyle diméthyl taurate.

 The sulfonic group monomer homopolymer can be present in a transparent gel in a content of active material between 0.05 and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 5% by weight, and preferably between 0, 05 and 2%, for example between 0.1 and 4%, in particular 0.25% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

 When the composition used according to the invention, whatever its nature, comprises an oil phase, it preferably contains at least one oil. It can also contain other fatty bodies. 10

 As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, there can be mentioned for example:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or also for example sunflower, corn, soybean oils, of pumpkin, grape seeds, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, triglycerides of carboxylic / capric acids such as those marketed by the Stearineries Dubois company or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the Dynamit Nobel company, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

- esters and synthetic ethers, in particular fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the remainder of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms such as, for example, purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl stearate 2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisoestearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, fatty alcohol decanates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisoestearate;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or non-volatile, and their derivatives, petrolatum, polyidecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil;

- fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures (cetyl stearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; 35

- partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in JP-A-2-295912;

- silicone oils such as volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or non-linear or cyclic silicone chains, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of a siliconized chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; Y

- their mixtures. Four. Five

 By the term "hydrocarbon oil" in the list of the aforementioned oils, any oil comprising mostly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups is understood.

 The other fatty bodies that may be present in the oil phase are, for example, acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; 50 waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Carnauba or Candellila wax, paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozoquerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fisher-Tropsh waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl (C 1-4) alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as products marketed under the name "KSG" by the Shin-Etsu company, with the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the company Dow Corning or 55 with the name "Gransil" by the Grant Industries company.

 These fatty bodies can be variedly selected by the person skilled in the art in order to

Prepare a composition that has the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

 According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. The proportion of the oil phase of the emulsion may be between 5 and 80% by weight, preferably between 5 and 50% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

 The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier selected from among the 5 amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or in admixture, and possibly a coemulsifier. The emulsifiers are appropriately selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are generally present in the composition in a proportion comprised between 0.3 to 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

 For W / O emulsions, for example, as emulsifiers, copolyol dimethicones such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, marketed under the name "DC 5225 C" by the Dow Corning company, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethyl copolyol marketed under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the Dow Corning company, and cetyl dimethicone copolyol marketed under the name Abil EM 90R by the Goldschmidt company.

 A crosslinked elastomeric solid organopolysiloxane having at least one oxyalkylene group, such as those obtained according to the embodiment of Examples 3, 4 and 8 of US-A-5,412, can also be used as emulsifying surfactant W / O .004 and the examples of US-A-5,811,487, in particular the product of example 3 (synthesis example) of US-A-5,412,004, and such as that sold under the reference KSG21 by the Shin Etsu company. Other types of KSG marketed by the Shin Etsu company, such as KSG-16, can also be used. twenty

 For O / W emulsions, for example, as emulsifiers, non-ionic emulsifiers, such as oxyalkylene fatty acid and glycerol esters (more particularly polyoxyethylene) may be mentioned; oxyalkylenated fatty acid and sorbitan esters; esters of oxyalkylenated fatty acids (oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene); ethers of oxyalkylene fatty alcohols (oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and their mixtures such as the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-40 stearate.

 In a known manner, the cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, solvents, perfumes, fillers, UV filters, bactericides, odor absorbers, coloring matter, plant extracts, salts, antioxidants, basic agents, acids, non-ionic, anionic, cationic surfactants.

 The amounts of these different adjuvants are those commonly used in the field considered, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, the aqueous phase and / or the lipid vesicles.

 As fillers that can be used in the composition of the invention, there can be mentioned, for example, in addition to the pigments, the silica powder, a colloidal amorphous silica; the talc; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name of ORGASOL by the company ATOCHEM; polyethylene powders; the microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those of ethylene glycol / lauryl methacrylate dimethacrylate copolymer sold by the Dow Corning company under the name of POLYTRAP; expanded powders such as hollow micro-spheres and in particular micro-spheres marketed under the name of EXPANCEL by the company Kemanord Plast or with the name of MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those marketed under the name of TOSPEARL by Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts between 0 and 20% by weight and preferably between 1 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

 As hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, carbopol, luvigel, 45 AMPS hostacerin, Simulgel, Sepigel arylamide gelling agents such as Seppic Sepigel 305, xanthan gum, guar, cellulose gums can be mentioned in particular. , alginates, and mixtures thereof. Hectorites can also be cited.

 As antioxidant agents, there may be mentioned in particular polyphenols, tannic acid, epoigalocatechin and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, olive leaf extracts, green tea, resveratrol and their derivatives , Pycnogenol, ergotineine, N-acetylcysteine, biotin, 50 chelators, idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen Bioprotect TM from the Provital company, anti-radicals such as vitamin E, co-enzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SODs, phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, and glutathione.

 According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition used according to the invention contains at least one UV filter (or sunscreen) which can be a chemical filter or a physical filter or a mixture of said filters. 55

 By way of illustration and not limitation, the following families can be cited (the names correspond to the CTFA nomenclature of the filters):

anthranilates, in particular methyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, the

benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferably benzophenone-2 (oxibenzone), or benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40 available from BASF ); benzylidene camphor, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecanephosphonic acid, camphor benzylconiomethosulfate, camphor polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene, di-camphor sulfonic acid terephthalylidene acid, and preferably camphor 4-methylbenzylidene 63 (Eusolex available in Merckol) ); the 5 benzimidazoles, in particular the benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP available in Haarmann and Reimer), or the phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232 available in Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular drometrizol-trisiloxane, or methylene bis-benzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinamate, dimethoxycinamate glyceryl-ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35 available from BASF), octylmethine Parsol MCX available at Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539 available at BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, in particular butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; the PABA, in particular the ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, the ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, the glyceryl PABA, the PABA, the PEG-25 PABA, and preferably the diethylhexylbutamido-triazone 15 (Uvasorb HEB available in 3V Sigma), the available ethylhexylvinylone (T50) BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); salicylates, in particular dipropylene glycol salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S available in Ciba); drometrizol trisiloxane, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron, zirconium, cerium coated or not. twenty

The number of filters depends on the desired end use. It can be for example between 1 and 20% by weight and better between 2 and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

 The compositions according to the invention may be applied directly to the skin or, alternatively, to cosmetic or dermatological supports of an occlusive or non-occlusive type, intended to be applied locally to the skin. 25

 The support can be an "occlusive" support. By way of example, the support consists of a thermoplastic material, selected from high and low density polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polyvinylchlorides, ethylene and vinyl acetate copolymers, polyesters and polyurethanes, or by a complex of said materials. These materials may also be present in stratified form with at least one metal sheet such as an aluminum sheet. 30

 The support layer may be of any appropriate thickness that will provide the desired support and protection functions. Preferably, the thickness of the support layer is between about 20 µm and about 1.5 mm. Advantageously, the support layer is sufficiently flexible so that it can fit perfectly into the skin profile, and does not cause the user to feel uncomfortable.

 However, preferably, the support is "non-occlusive. In the latter hypothesis, a support consisting of a paper, a porous or perforated thermoplastic material, a fabric, a nonwoven, or a nonwoven is advantageously used. Perforated.

 According to another embodiment of the invention, said compositions according to the invention can be associated with orally administered compositions, which contain additional cosmetic active agents with beneficial effect on the appearance of the skin, such as, for example, agents Additional assets intended to fight against the signs of skin aging or additional active agents intended to fight against oily skin.

Additional active agents

 The composition according to the invention may also contain other active agents, and in particular at least one compound selected from: the moisturizing agents; depigmenting agents; anti-aging / anti-wrinkle agents (anti-glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or that prevent their degradation; agents that stimulate fibroblast proliferation and / or of the keratinocytes or that stimulate the differentiation of the keratinocytes; the muscle relaxant agents); agents that have a restructuring effect of the skin barrier function; the agents that favor the maturation of the cornea envelope; agents that favor cutaneous microcirculation; the agents that stimulate the cellular energy metabolism of the cells; tensioning agents; antioxidant agents; anti-pollution and / or anti-radiation agents, descaling agents, sunscreens, and mixtures thereof.

 The term "moisturizing agent" means:

- or a compound that acts on the barrier function, with a view to maintaining the hydration of the stratum corneum, or an occlusive compound. Ceramides, sphingoid-based compounds, lecithins, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and their derivatives, phytosterols (stigmasterol, β-sitosterol, campesterol), essential fatty acids, 1-2- may be mentioned. diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone, pentacyclic triterpenes such as ursolic acid, petrolatum and lanonine;

- or a compound that directly increases the water content of the stratum corneum, such as the

Trehalose and its derivatives, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, glycerol, pentanediol, sodium pidolate, serine, xylitol, sodium lactate, glycerol polyacrylate, ectoin and its derivatives, chitosan, oligo and polysaccharides, cyclic carbonates, N-lauryl-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and N-α-benzoyl-L-arginine;

- or a compound that activates the sebaceous glands such as DHEA, its 7-oxidized and / or 17-5 alkylated derivatives, sapogenins and vitamin D and their derivatives.

 The "depigmenting agents" capable of being incorporated into the composition according to the present invention comprise, for example, the following compounds: kojic acid; ellagic acid; arbutin and its derivatives such as those described in applications EP-895 779 and EP-524 109; hydroquinone; aminophenol derivatives such as those described in applications WO 99/10318 and WO 99/32077, and in particular N-10 cholesteryloxycarbonyl-para-amino-phenol and N-ethylexycarbonyl-para-aminophenol; iminophenol derivatives, in particular those described in application WO 99/22707; L-2-oxothiazolidin-4-carboxylic acid or procysteine, as well as its salts and esters; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, in particular ascorbyl glycoside; and plant extracts, in particular licorice, mulberry and skullcap, without this listing being limiting.

 By the term "anti-glycation agent" is meant a compound that prevents and / or decreases the glycation of skin proteins, in particular of dermis proteins such as collagen.

 Examples of antiglication agents are plant extracts of the Ericaceae family, such as a cranberry extract (Vaccinium angustifolium); ergotionein and its derivatives; and hydroxystilbenes and their derivatives, such as resveratrol and 3,3 ’, 5,5’-tetrahydroxystilbene.

 Examples of "NO synthase inhibitors" which are suitable for use in the present invention 20 comprise in particular a vegetable extract of the species Vitis vinifera which is marketed in particular by the Euromed company under the name "Leucocyanidines of extra raisins" , or also by the Indena company with the name Leucoselect, or finally by the Hansen company with the name "Extrait de marc de Raisin"; a vegetable extract of the species Olea europaea that is preferably obtained from olive leaves and that is marketed in particular by the VINYALS company in the form of a dry extract, or by the company Biologia & 25 Technologia with the trade name Eurol BT; and an extract of a vegetable of the Gingko biloba species which is preferably a dry aqueous extract of this vegetable sold by the company Beaufour under the trade name Gingko biloba extrait standard.

 Among the "agents that stimulate the macromolecules of the dermis or that prevent its degradation" are those that act: 30

- or in the synthesis of collagen, such as extracts of Centella asiatica; Asiaticosides and their derivatives; ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; synthesis peptides such as iamine, the CL biopeptide or the palitoyl oligopeptide marketed by the company SEDERMA; peptides from plant extracts, such as soy hydrolyzate marketed by the company COLETICA under the trade name Phytokine; and plant hormones such as auxins and lignans, 35

- or in the synthesis of elastin, such as the extract of Saccharomyces Cerevisiae marketed by the company LSN under the trade name Cytovitin; and the Macrocystis pyrifera seaweed extract marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadeliedel;

- or in the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, such as the milk fermentation product by lactobacillus vulgaris, marketed by the BROOKS company under the trade name Biomin 40 yogourth; Brown seaweed extract Padina pavonica marketed by the company ALBAN MÜLLER under the trade name HSP3; and the extract of Sacharomyces cerevisiae available in particular in the SILAB company under the trade name Firmalift or in the company LSN with the trade name Cytovitin;

- or in the synthesis of fibronectin, such as the saline zooplankton extract marketed by the SEPORGA company under the trade name GP4G; the yeast extract available in particular from the company ALBAN MÜLLER under the trade name Drieline; and the palmitoyl pentapeptide marketed by the company SEDERMA under the trade name Matrixil;

- or in the inhibition of metalloproteinases (MMPs) such as more particularly MMPs 1, 2, 3, 9. It may be mentioned: retinoids and derivatives, oligopeptides and lipopeptides, lipoamino acids, commercialized malt extract by the company COLECTICA with the trade name Collalift; cranberry or rosemary extracts; lycopene; Isoflavones, their derivatives or plant extracts containing them, in particular soy extracts (marketed for example by the company ICHIMARU PHARCOS under the commercial name Flavostérone SB), red clover, flax, kakkon or sage;

- or in the inhibition of serine proteases such as leukocyte elastase or cathepsin G. The following may be mentioned: the peptide extract of legume seeds (Pisum sativum) marketed by the company LSN under the trade name Parelastyl; heparinoids; and pseudodipeptides such as acid {2-

[acetyl- (3-trifluoromethylphenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butylamino} acetic.

 Among the "active agents that stimulate epidermal macromolecules" such as phylagrin and keratins, there may be mentioned in particular the lupine extract marketed by the SILAB company under the trade name Structurine; the beech bud extract Fagus sylvatica marketed by the company GATTEFOSSE under the trade name Gatuline; and the saline zooplankton extract marketed by the SEPORGA company under the trade name GP4G.

 The "agents that stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts" that can be used in the composition according to the invention can be selected, for example, from among vegetable proteins or polypeptides, in particular soybean extracts (for example an extract of soy marketed by the company LSN under the name Eleseryl SH-VEG 8 or marketed by the company SILAB under the trade name Raffermine); and plant hormones such as gibberellins and cytokines.

 The "agents that stimulate the proliferation of keratinocytes" which can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise in particular retinoids such as retinol and its esters, including retinyl palmitate; floroglucinol; the extracts of walnut cakes marketed by the company GATTEFOSSE; and Solanum tuberosum extracts marketed by the company SEDERMA. fifteen

 "Agents that stimulate keratinocyte differentiation" comprise, for example, minerals such as calcium; the lupine extract marketed by the SILAB company under the trade name Photopréventine; the sodium beta-sitosteryl sulfate marketed by the SEPORGA company under the trade name Phytocohésine; and corn extract marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name Phytovityl; and lignans such as secoisolariciresinol. twenty

 The composition according to the invention may comprise "dermo-relaxing agents" among which, in particular, alverine and its salts, in particular alverine citrate, sapogenins such as diosgenin and the natural extracts containing them (such as such as Wild Yam extracts), certain secondary and carbonylated tertiary amines, organic or inorganic salts of metals, in particular manganese gluconate, adenosine, as well as the argireline hexapeptide R marketed by the company LIPOTEC. It is also possible to mention certain perfume compositions with a dermo-relaxing effect.

 As "agent that has a restructuring affect on the skin barrier" there can be mentioned a Thermus thermophilus extract such as Sederma Vénucéane, a wild ignamo rhizome extract (Dioscorea villosa) such as Actigen Y from Active Organics, some plankton extracts such as the omega plankton from Secma, some yeast extracts such as the Relipidum from Colectica, a chestnut extract such as the Recoverine of 30 Silab, a cedar bud extract such as the Gatuline Zen from Gattefossé, the Phytosphingosine SLC from Degussa, the Aquaxyl from Seppic, the Lipidescence from Coletica.

 In particular, ceramides and their derivatives, sphingoid-based compounds, glycosphingolipids, phospholipids, cholesterol and its derivatives, phytosterols, essential fatty acids, diacylglycerol, 4-chromanone and their derivatives may also be mentioned. Chromone, petrolatum, lanolin, shea butter, cocoa butter, lanolin, etc.

 As additional preferred agents that favor the cutaneous barrier function, there will be cited an extract of Thermus thermophilus, an extract of wild ignamo rhizome (Dioscorea villosa), a yeast extract, a chestnut extract, a cedar yolk extract, and their mixtures

 As "agents that favor the maturation of the corneal envelope", agents that intervene in the maturation of the cornea envelope that alter with age and induce a decrease in the activity of the cornea may be used in the composition of the invention. transglutamines. One can cite, for example, urea and its derivatives, and in particular the National Starch Hydrovance and the other active agents mentioned in the application of L'OREAL FR 2 877 220.

 As "agents that favor cutaneous microcirculation", agents acting on cutaneous microcirculation can be associated in the compositions of the invention in order to avoid clouding of the complexion and / or the formation of pockets such as, by For example, an extract of black tea such as Kombuchka from Sederma, Pycnogenol, manganese gluconate (Givobio GMn from Seppic), Visnadine from Indena, an extract from lupine (Eclaline from Silab), Epaline 100 from Carilène laboratories , an extract of bitter orange flower (Remoduline de Ilab), vitamin P and its derivatives such as Permethol from Sochibios and other extracts (from Ruscus, chestnut, ivy, 50 ginseng, meliloto, etc. ) and also caffeine, escina, hesperitin laurate, dextran sulfate, nicotinate and derivatives, lysine and derivatives (such as Asparlyne de Solabia), etc.

 As additional preferred agents that favor cutaneous microcirculation, there will be mentioned Kombuchka, manganese gluconate and vitamin P and its derivatives.

 By means of the expression "agents that stimulate the energy metabolism of the cells", it is also possible to associate active agents that stimulate the energy metabolism that is slowed down during aging, among which biotin, an extract of Saccharomyces cerevisaie tal As the

Phosphovital from Sedenna, Physiogenyl from Solabia, a mixture of zinc gluconate, copper and magnesium such as Sepitic Sepitic M3.

 The term "tensor agent" means a compound capable of exerting traction on the skin, which has the effect of temporarily blurring the irregularities of the skin surface, such as wrinkles or small wrinkles. 5

 As "antioxidant" agents, mention may be made in particular of tocopherol and its esters, in particular tocopherol acetate; the BHT and the BHA.

 Mention may also be made of polyphenols, tannic acid, epoigalocatechin and natural extracts containing them, anthocyanins, rosemary extracts, olive leaf extracts, green tea, resveratrol and its derivatives, Pycnogenol, Ergotinein, N-acetylcysteine, biotin, chelators, idebenone, plant extracts such as Pronalen BioprotectTM from the Provital company, anti-radicals such as vitamin E, co-enzyme Q10, bioflavonoids, SODs , phytantriol, lignans, melatonin, pidolates, and glutathione.

 The term "anti-pollution agent" means any compound capable of trapping ozone, mono or polycyclic aromatic compounds such as benzopyrene and / or heavy metals such as cobalt, mercury, cadmium and / or nickel . The term "anti-radical agent" means any compound capable of trapping free radicals.

 As "ozone trapping agents" which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of vitamin C and its derivatives, including ascorbyl glycoside; phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and the natural extracts that contain it; olive leaf extracts; tea extracts, in particular green tea; the anthocyanins; extracts of rosemary; phenolic acids, in particular chorogenic acid; stilbenes, in particular resveratrol; sulfur amino acid derivatives, in particular S-carboxymethylcysteine; ergotioneína; N-acetylcysteine; chelants such as N, N’-bis- (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine or one of its salts, metal complexes or esters; carotenoids such as crocetin; and various raw materials such as the mixture of arginine, histidine ribonucleate, mannitol, adenosine triphosphate, pyridoxine, phenylalanine, tyrosine and hydrolyzed RNA marketed by 25 Laboratoires Serobiologiques under the trade name CPP LS 2633-12F, the water soluble fraction of corn marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name of Phytovityl, the mixture of extract of fumaria and lemon extract marketed under the name of Unicotrozon C-49 by the company Induchem, and the mixture of extracts of ginseng, apple, of peach, wheat and barley sold by the company PROVITAL under the trade name of Pronalen Bioprotect. 30

 As "mono or polycyclic aromatic compound trapping agents" which can be used in the composition according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular tannins such as ellagic acid; indole derivatives, in particular indole-3-carbinol; tea extracts, in particular green tea, water hyacinth extracts or Eichornia crassipes; and the water-soluble fraction of corn marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name of Phytovityl. 35

 Finally, as "heavy metal trapping agents" which can be used in the composition according to the invention, chelating agents such as EDTA, the ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonic phosphonic salt, and N, N'- may be mentioned in particular. bis- (3,4,5-trimethoxybenzyl) ethylenediamine or one of its salts, metal complexes or esters; phytic acid; chitosan derivatives; tea extracts, in particular green tea; tannins such as ellagic acid; sulfur amino acids such as cysteine; water hyacinth extracts 40 (Eichornia crassipes); and the water-soluble fraction of corn marketed by the company SOLABIA under the trade name of Phytovityl.

 The "anti-radiation agents" that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, in addition to certain anti-contamination agents mentioned above, vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; co-enzyme Q10 or ubiquinone; certain enzymes such as catalase, superoxide dismutase, lactoperoxidase, glutathione peroxidase and quinone reductases; glutathione; camphor benzylidene; the benzylcyclanones; substituted naphthalenones; the pidolates; phytantriol; gamma-oryzanol; the lignans; and melatonin.

 The term "descaling agent" means any compound capable of acting:

- or directly on desquamation, favoring exfoliation, such as β-hydroxy acids, in particular salicylic acid and its derivatives (including n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid); α-hydroxy acids, such as glycolic, citric, lactic, tartaric, malic or mandelic acids; urea; gentysic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; Saphora japonica extract; the resveratrol;

- or on the enzymes involved in desquamation or degradation of the corneodesmosomes, such as glycosidases, the enzyme chemotropic stratum corneum (SCCE) including other proteases (trypsin; 55 chymotrypsine-like). The chelating agents of mineral salts can be mentioned: EDTA; N-acyl-N, N ’, N’-ethylenediaminetriacetic acid; aminosulfonic compounds and in particular N- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazin-N’-2-ethanesulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidin-4-carboxylic acid derivatives

(procysteine); glycine-type alpha amino acid derivatives (such as those described in EP-0 852 949, as well as methyl glycine sodium diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); Honey; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose or N-acetylglucosamine.

 The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic skin treatment intended to improve and / or strengthen the skin barrier function comprising at least one stage consisting of applying at least one composition on the skin such as It has been defined above.

 According to a first mode, the method according to the invention comprises at least one stage which consists in applying on the skin of people who have a skin that has at least one of the skin aging signals previously remembered for at least one composition such as 10 previously defined.

 According to another embodiment, it comprises at least one stage which consists in applying to the skin of people who present with a skin or an area of attacked skin, in particular the shaved skin of the face or body, at least one such composition. as defined above.

Cosmetic set 15

 According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising:

i) a container that delimits at least one compartment, said container being closed by a closure element; Y

ii) a composition as described above and disposed within said compartment.

 The container can be of any suitable form. In particular, it may be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a canister, a case, a bag or a box.

 The closure element may be in the form of a removable cap, of a lid, of an operculum, of a breakable band, or of a capsule, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and an articulated cap on the body. It may also be in the form of an element that ensures selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, a valve or a clapper. 25

 The container may be associated with an applicator. The applicator may be in the form of a brush, such as that described, for example, in FR 2 722 380. The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomers, a felt or a spatula. The applicator can be free (tassel or sponge) or integral with a rod supported by the closure element, as described, for example, in US Patent No. 5,492,426. The applicator may be integral with the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959. 30

 The product can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly. By way of example, the product may be arranged on an impregnated support, in particular in the form of a wipe or a buffer, and arranged (one or more) in a box or in a sack. Said support incorporating the product is described for example in the application WO 01/03538.

 The closure element may be coupled to the container by threading. Alternatively, the coupling 35 between the closure element and the container is carried out other than by threading, in particular through a bayonet mechanism, by means of encircling, tightening, welding, gluing, or by magnetic attraction. The term "enkened" means in particular any system that involves the postage of a weatherstrip or a cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, and then by return to the non-elastically tensioned position of said portion after the postage of the weatherstrip or cord. 40

 The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. As examples of thermoplastic materials, polypropylene or polyethylene can be mentioned.

 Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy).

 The container may be of rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube vial.

 The container may comprise means intended to cause or facilitate the distribution of the composition. By way of example, the container can be deformable walls so as to cause the composition to exit in response to an overpressure inside the container, overpressure that is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the walls of the container. fifty

 The container may consist of a box with a bottom that delimits at least one housing containing the composition and a lid, in particular articulated at the bottom, and capable of covering said bottom at least in part. Said box is described, for example, in the application WO 03/018423 or in the patent FR 2 791 042.

 The container may be equipped with a drainer disposed in the vicinity of the opening of the container.

Said drainer allows the applicator to drain and possibly the rod from which it can be integral. Said drainer is described, for example, in FR 2 792 618.

 The contents of the patents or patent applications cited above are incorporated by reference in this application.

 According to a particular mode, the invention relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising:

- a composition A containing at least one C-glycoside derivative, a composition B, conditioned separately from composition A, comprising at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its derivatives.

 The invention finally relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising at least one stage of application on the skin and / or its annexes of composition A and at least one stage of application on the skin and / or its annexes of composition B.

 According to a preferred mode, composition A is applied first and secondly composition B.

 Without this linking them to any theory, the inventors see in this order of application an advantage that comes from the fact that the C-glycoside derivative prepares the skin and / or its annexes to respond in an increased manner to hyaluronic acid or its derivatives. fifteen

 In this case, the compositions A and B may be conditioned separately inside two compartments, formed either by two different containers, or inside a unitary device.

 The term "unit device" means a device by which the two compartments are integral with each other. Said device can be obtained by a one-piece molding process of the two compartments, in particular in a thermoplastic material. It can also result in any form of assembly, in particular by gluing, welding, or other enclosure.

 According to a first embodiment, the two containers are independent of each other. Such containers can be presented in various forms. It may be, in particular, tubes, bottles or drums.

 One and / or the other of the vessels may be crowned by a hand-operated pump topped by a push button for pump operation and distribution of the composition through at least one distribution orifice.

 Alternatively, one and / or the other of the vessels are pressurized, in particular by means of a propellant, in particular a propellant gas. In this case, the container (s) is equipped with a valve surmounted by a push button equipped with a nozzle or with any other means of diffusion for product distribution. 30

 The propellant may be in admixture with the composition to be distributed or separated, in particular through a piston suitable for sliding inside the container, or through the flexible walls of a bag within which the composition is arranged.

 The containers may consist of various materials: plastic, glass or metal.

 Alternatively, the two compartments are formed by two concentric compartments 35 formed inside a tube, and are crowned by a pump without air recovery equipped with a push button with one or two distribution holes. Inside the tube is provided a piston that rises in the direction of the pump as the compositions are removed inside the containers. Such modes of distribution are used in particular for the distribution of toothpastes.

 The following examples illustrate the present invention. 40

EXAMPLES

 The C-glycoside derivative used is C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane marketed under the name MEXORYL of CHIMEX. This is presented as a 30% by weight solution in active matter in a water / 1,2-propanediol 60/40 mixture. The hyaluronic acid used is Cristalhyal AL marketed by the company Solliance (PM: 1.1 · 106 Da). Four. Five

EXAMPLE 1: Test performed: dosage of keratinocyte transglutaminase activity (TGk)

 The in vitro effect of 2 active agents (C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane 30% by weight of active material in a mixture of water / 1,2-propanediol 60/40 and the acid has been studied hyaluronic) on keratinocyte differentiation. To this end, normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) have been put into culture, 50 previously treated with mitomycin to prevent their proliferation, in a poor medium composed of 40% by depleted SFM medium and 60% by Earl Buffer Salt Sodium buffer medium (EBSS). The metabolism of these cells as well

slowed down, its ability to differentiate is then quantified dosed with the help of a standard radiochemical test the activity of keratinocyte transglutaminase (TGk) of NHEKs previously treated by active agents.

 Calcium chloride (CaCl2), a molecule known to stimulate keratinocyte differentiation, has been used as a reference molecule for this test. 5

Embodiment

 Normal human keratinocytes have been cultured at 37 ° C and 5% CO2 for 24 hours in a complete SFM medium. The cell divisions have then been blocked by treatment with mitomycin C (10 µg / ml) for 2 hours at 37 ° C and 5% CO2. Next, the cells have been incubated for 96 hours in a deficient or non-control medium (containing or not containing various concentrations of the products to be tested or the reference. In parallel, 1,2-propanediol, solvent of C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, has been tested. The treatments have been performed in triplicate (n = 3).

 At the end of the incubation, the membrane TGk enzyme has been extracted in the presence of Triton X-100, and then the TGk activity has been determined by measuring the covalent addition of tritiated putrescine at 2 µCi / ml final to the casein (receptor protein, 2 mg / ml final). fifteen

 Casein has been precipitated by the addition of trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and the precipitates have been recovered on filters and collector, and finally the counting of the dry filters in liquid scintillation has been performed.

Results

TGk Activity - Mitomycin Medium

 TREATMENT

 CONCENTRATION% of activity with respect to control Significant variation with respect to control

 Control in poor medium (40% of SFM [+ Ep + EGF] + 60% of EBSS [+ Ca + Mg])

 - 100 -

 Control in normal medium (100% SFM [+ Ep + EGF])

 - 209 + 109%

 CaCl2

 1.5 mM 557 + 457%

 Hyaluronic acid (1)

 0.02% 88 NS

 C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane (2)

 0.06% 128 NS

 1,2-propanediol

 0.16% 87 NS

 Hyaluronic acid (1) and C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane (2)

 0.02% and 0.06% 222 + 122%

 (NS = not significant) (1) Cristalhyal AL marketed by the company Solliance (PM: 1.1.106 Da) (2) Mexoryl SBB® manufactured by CHIMEX

 twenty

 In this test, 1.5 mM calcium chloride, used as a reference molecule, clearly increased the activity of the TGk of keratinocytes. This result is in agreement with the expected effects and allowed the validation of the trial.

 The C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane tested at 0.06% has no significant effect on TGk activity. 25

 Its solvent, 1,2-propanediol, tested at 0.8% also did not modify the activity of this enzyme.

 Hyaluronic acid tested only at 0.02% is also without effect on the activity of keratinocyte transglutaminase.

 The association of C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and hyaluronic acid, tested respectively at 0.06% and 0.02%, presented a synergistic effect, to the extent that the products tested alone already This concentration does not modify the TGk activity while the association significantly stimulated the activity. The

Same effects have been observed when the activity was applied to the amount of protein.

conclusion

 The C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane / hyaluronic acid mixture increases the activity of keratinocyte transglutaminase in normal human epidermal keratinocytes cultured in poor medium.

 The effects of C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane are enhanced by hyaluronic acid and are close to those observed if the cells had been cultured in normal medium.

 The results obtained for this association of active agents translate an increase in epidermal differentiation.

EXAMPLE 2: Examples of formulations

 The quantities are indicated in mass percentage. 10

 Compositions A and B are O / W emulsions gelled by a carbomer and / or ammonium polyacryldimethyl restaurant, and prepared according to standard techniques. Composition B is very silicone. Composition C is a very siliconized W / O emulsion and prepared according to the usual techniques. Composition D is a transparent gel highly concentrated in hyaluronic acid and gelled by the polyacryloyl dimethyl restaurant ammonium.

 A B C D

 Magnesium sulphate

       0.70

 Sodium hydroxide

 0.08

 Triethanolamine

    1.23 0.01 0.02

 Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid

 1.00 1.00

 C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane (1)

 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00

 Algae Extracts

 1.00 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20

 Hectorite Diesteardimony

       0.20

 Silica

    2.00 3.00

 Acrylate Copolymer

       0.30

 Triestetin (y) Acetylated glycol stearate

       1.00

 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride

    3.00

 Phenoxyethanol

 0.60 0.70

 Methylparaben

 0.20

 Chlorfenesin

 0.30

 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

 1.00 1.00

 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid

    1.80

 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

    7.50

 Titanium dioxide (y) mica

 1.00 1.00 1.00

 Hydroxyethyl cellulose

          0.12

 Sodium Hyaluronate (2)

 0.02 0.02 0.02 0.50

 Carbomer

 0.15

 Ammonium Polyacryldimethyl Taurate

 1.00 1.60 0.25

 Polymethylmethacrylate

    2.00

 HDI / Trimethylol-hexylactone crospolymer

    1.00

 Cyclohexasiloxane

    3.00 22.00

 Cetil PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone

       3.00

 Dimethicone (y) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crospolymer

 10.00

 Bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane

          3.00

 Dimethicone stearyl

 2.00

 Cyclopentasiloxane (y) dimethiconol

    2.00

 Dimethicone (and) dimethiconol

    3.00

 Cyclopentasiloxane (y) dimethicone crospolymer

 25.00

 Crospolymer divinyl dimethicone / dimethicone (y) C12-13 pareth-23 (y) C12-13 pareth-3

    0.50

(continuation)

 Dimethicone (y) ceteth-10 (y) Laureth-4

 3.50

 Denatured alcohol

    5.00 5.00 7.00

 Water

 38.15 55.15 45.87 79.41

 Glycerin

 7.00 7.00 10.00 7.00

 Propylene glycol

 6.00 4.00

 Caprilil Glycol

          0.50

 Polysorbate 80

 1.00

 Methyl glucose sesquiestearate PEG-20

    2.00

 Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate

       1.00

 (1) MEXORYL SBB® manufactured by CHIMEX (2) Cristalhyal AL® marketed by Solliance

Claims (18)

 1. Topical cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its alkaline salts, or an hyaluronic acid ester, selected from among the methyl, ethyl, N-propyl esters , N-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl of hyaluronic acid, and at least one C-glycoside derivative, said C-glycoside derivative responding to the following general formula (I):  5  in which: - R designates a linear radical in C1-C4, - X represents a group -CH (OH) -, and - S represents the D-xylose, - the S-CH2-X bond represents a C-anomeric nature bond, which can be α or β. 10  as well as its cosmetically acceptable salts, and its solvents such as hydrates.  2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein R designates a linear radical in C1-C3, in particular methyl. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the C-glycoside derivative is selected from C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane , and is more particularly C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane.  4. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the C-glycoside derivative is present in a content between 0.001% and 25% by weight, in particular between 0.001% and 10% by weight, and more particularly between 0.05 % and 5% by weight of active material of C-glycoside derivative with respect to the total weight of the composition. twenty  5. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the hyaluronic acid or one of its alkaline salts, or an ester of the hyaluronic acid, selected from the methyl, ethyl, N-propyl, N-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters Hyaluronic acid has a molecular weight between 50,000 and 5,000,000, particularly between 100,000 and 5,000,000, and in particular between 400,000 and 5,000,000 Da.  6. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the hyaluronic acid or one of its alkaline salts, or an ester of the hyaluronic acid, selected from the methyl, ethyl, N-propyl, N-pentyl, benzyl and Hyaluronic acid dodecyl, is present in a content between 0.001 and 20%, particularly between 0.01 and 10%, and more particularly between 0.01 and 5% by weight of active material of hyaluronic acid or one of its salts alkaline or an ester of hyaluronic acid, selected from the methyl, ethyl, N-propyl, N-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid, based on the total weight of the composition. 30  7. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between hyaluronic acid or one of its salts, or an ester of hyaluronic acid, selected from among the methyl, ethyl, N-propyl, N-pentyl esters, benzyl and dodecyl of hyaluronic acid and the C-glycoside derivative is between 0.001 and 1,000, in particular between 1 and 10 and very particularly between 2 and 4.  8. Cosmetic set comprising: 35 - a composition A, comprising at least one C-glycoside derivative, as defined in claim 1, - a composition B, comprising at least one derivative of hyaluronic acid or one of its alkaline salts, or an ester of hyaluronic acid, selected from among the methyl, ethyl, N-propyl, N-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of the hyaluronic acid. 40  9. Cosmetic non-therapeutic use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 7 or of a cosmetic assembly according to claim 8 to improve and / or strengthen the skin barrier function.  10. Cosmetic non-therapeutic use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 7 or of a cosmetic assembly according to claim 8 to improve and / or strengthen the protection of the skin against external aggressions.  11. Cosmetic non-therapeutic use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 7 or of a cosmetic assembly according to claim 8 to improve hydration of the skin and / or its annexes.  12. Cosmetic non-therapeutic use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 7 or of a cosmetic assembly according to claim 8 to prevent and / or treat the roughness or micro-relief of the skin and / or of its annexes and / or to improve the brightness of the complexion and / or to improve the flexibility of the skin and / or its annexes.  13. Cosmetic non-therapeutic use of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 5 to 7 or of a cosmetic assembly according to claim 8 to blur the aging skin signals.  14. Cosmetic use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the skin signals of aging are selected from among the alteration of the viscoelastic or biomechanical properties of the skin, the alteration of the cohesion of the tissues, the thinning of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles and / or small wrinkles, 10 the appearance of blackening and / or yellowing of the skin, and the appearance of old age spots or senescence or lentigo.  15. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment procedure aimed at improving and / or strengthening the barrier function and / or hydration and / or resistance to external aggressions of the skin and / or its annexes and / or to fight against signals of the aging skin, characterized in that an effective amount of at least one C-glycoside derivative such as that defined according to any one of claims 1 to 3 and of at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its alkaline salts, or a hyaluronic acid ester, selected from among the methyl, ethyl, N-propyl, N-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid on the skin and / or its annexes.  16. Cosmetic treatment method comprising at least one stage of application on the skin and / or its annexes of the composition A as defined in claim 8, and of at least one stage of application on the skin and / or its annexes of composition B as defined in claim 8, preferably in this order.  17. Composition comprising at least one hyaluronic acid or one of its alkaline salts, or an ester of hyaluronic acid, selected from among the methyl, ethyl, N-propyl, N-pentyl, benzyl and dodecyl esters of hyaluronic acid and by at least one C-glycoside derivative as defined according to any of claims 1 to 3, to be used in a process for the improvement and / or reinforcement of the barrier function of an injured skin, in particular of a skin that needs repair and / or tissue regeneration.