EP4661828A1

EP4661828A1 - Solid matte composition comprising a particular non-polar hydrocarbon oil, a lipophilic clay and process using same

Info

Publication number: EP4661828A1
Application number: EP24704362.3A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Lisa IACHELLA; Romain GUITARD
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2023-02-10
Filing date: 2024-02-07
Publication date: 2025-12-17
Also published as: FR3145685A1; WO2024165589A1; KR20250145057A; FR3145685B1; CN120813332A; JP2026505432A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a solid matte cosmetic composition, preferably in the form of a stick, intended to be applied to the skin and/or the lips, comprising: * at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one first saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, preferably branched, non-polar C₁₄-C₁₉ hydrocarbon oil, * at least one mineral or organic filler comprising at least one filler of lipophilic clay type comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group, said filler of lipophilic clay type being present in an amount of between 1 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, *at least one second oil chosen from polar or non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils different from the first oil, or non-volatile silicone oils, * at least one silicone elastomer in a form carried in at least one oil identical to or different from the first or second oil. The invention also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, which consists in applying said composition.

Description

SOLID MATTE COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICULAR NON-POLAR HYDROCARBON OIL, A LIPOPHILIC CLAY AND PROCESS USING SAME

The present invention relates to solid compositions, the deposit of which has a matte appearance, for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, more particularly the lips, comprising at least 5% by weight of a particular non-polar hydrocarbon oil and a lipophilic clay comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group as filler, and also a process using said composition.
Compositions intended to be applied, in particular to the lips, and providing a matte finish after application, are well known in the cosmetic field and most of the time have the characteristic of comprising high contents of volatile oils and/or fillers. The high content of volatile oil(s) makes it possible to further increase the content of solid particles in the deposit, such as fillers and pigments, once the composition has been applied and dried. As regards the fillers used in compositions providing a matte finish, organic particles are often found, in particular polymeric particles such as nylon, polytetrafluoroethylene, polyethylene, silicone resins or elastomers, or else mineral particles such as kaolin or silica for example. These fillers make it possible, inter alia, to partially absorb the remaining oily compounds, whether they originate from the composition or from the support to which the latter is applied (sebum). With the high contents of volatile oils and of solid particles in compositions with a matte rendering, the content of non-volatile oils is consequently greatly reduced in the deposit after application and drying of the composition. This is why matte compositions are generally considered by users to be not very or not at all comfortable, once put in place, also giving rise to a sensation of drying of the lips. Moreover, in recent years, a new trend is markedly apparent among consumers, who are less exclusively, but still to some extent despite everything, focused on the performance qualities of the makeup composition. Indeed, increasing attention is being paid to the ingredients used in cosmetic compositions, in particular to the presence of microplastics. In point of fact, as previously indicated, the obtaining of a matte effect often depends on the presence of high contents of fillers, more particularly organic fillers, in particular polymeric fillers. Since such fillers are considered to be microplastics, it is desired to restrict, or even avoid, their use in compositions with a matte finish. On the other hand, replacing the organic fillers with mineral fillers, such as clays or silicas, does not represent a totally acceptable solution either, since these fillers result in a further increase in the sensation of dryness of the deposit once applied. They can also impair the ease of application of the compositions and can result in the application having significantly more drag.
Thus, solid compositions with a matte finish which are easy to apply, which are more comfortable to wear, and which have a limited drying effect on the lips are still being sought. It is also desired to be able to have available compositions in which it is possible to dispense with the presence of microplastics or to reduce the use thereof, without loss of effectiveness, in particular in terms of mattness.
These aims and others are achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is thus compositions comprising:
* at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one first saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, preferably branched, non-polar C₁₄-C₁₉ hydrocarbon oil,
* at least one mineral or organic filler comprising at least one filler of lipophilic clay type comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group, said filler of lipophilic clay type being present in an amount of between 1 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
* at least one second non-volatile oil chosen from polar or non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils different from the first oil, or non-volatile silicone oils,
* at least one silicone elastomer in a form carried in at least one oil, identical to or different from the first or second oil.
A subject of the invention is also a makeup and/or care process, in which the composition defined above is applied to human keratin materials, in particular to the lips.
The present invention makes it possible to obtain a stable, solid composition, more particularly in the form of a stick, which is easily applied to the lips, as a precise, homogeneous, matte deposit which does not migrate. The resulting deposit also has improved comfort, in particular in that it dries the lips less. In addition, the deposit exhibits good colour fastness over time (which may range up to 10 hours).
These advantages and others of the present invention will become more clearly apparent on reading the description and the examples which will follow.
It should be noted that, in the continuation of the description, unless otherwise indicated, the limits indicated for a range are included in this range.
The expressions “at least one” and “one or more” are used without distinction.
In addition, the sum of the amounts of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Protocol for measuring hardness

The hardness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol:
The stick is stored at 20°C for 16 hours before measuring the hardness.
The hardness is measured at 20°C by the “cheese wire” method, which consists in transversely cutting a stick of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire with a diameter of 0.25 mm, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a rate of 100 mm/min. The measurements are carried out at least 10 mm from the sample holder.
The hardness of the samples, expressed in grams, is measured, for example, by means of a static brittleness tester (ruptometer - Rematique Electronique Industrielle).
The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The hardness is the average of the three values read by means of the apparatus mentioned above.
According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of between 80 and 200 g, more particularly 100 to 190 g, preferably 120 to 170 g.

Protocol for measuring gloss

The gloss of the composition is measured according to the following protocol:
After having been heated to 95-98°C, the lipstick is spread on a contrast chart with a white and black background (Ref byko-chart, unvarnished N2C), having the size: 194x260 mm (7.6 x 10.25 in), with a thickness of 500 µm by means of an automatic spreader (Ref byko-drive, Model: DOA-P504-BN), the cylinder of which is heated beforehand to 50°C by means of a heating plate.
The gloss is measured at 85° using a gloss meter (Ref micro-TRI-gloss, BYK).
The gloss value is obtained by averaging three measurements taken at three different points on the contrast chart.
The composition is considered matte, for the purposes of the invention, when the gloss value is less than 70, and preferably less than 30.

FIRST OIL

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one first saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, preferably branched, non-polar C₁₄-C₁₉ hydrocarbon oil.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “non-polar hydrocarbon oil” denotes a hydrocarbon oil constituted solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.
In addition, for the purposes of the invention, the term “oil” denotes a compound that is insoluble in water and liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁵Pa).
More particularly, the first oil is chosen from the following oils, alone or as a mixture (INCI name): Tetradecane, Hexadecane, Isohexadecane, Octadecane, C15-19 Alkane, and even more preferably, the oil is Isohexadecane.
These oils are available in particular under the trade names Arlamol HD by Croda; Permethyl 101A by Presperse Corp; Isohexadecane by INEOS; Parafol 14, Parafol 16-97, Parafol 18-97 by Sasol GmbH; Gemseal 40 by Total; Emogreen L15, Emogreen L19 by SEPPIC among others.
The composition according to the invention also has a content of first oil(s) of at least 5% by weight, more particularly at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the content of first oil(s) is between 10 and 25% by weight, more particularly between 15 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

NON-VOLATILE SECOND OIL

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one second polar or non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, different from the first oil, or non-volatile silicone oil, and mixtures thereof.
The term “non-volatile oil” denotes water-insoluble fatty compounds that are liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 × 10⁵ Pa), the vapour pressure of which at 20°C is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than or equal to 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapour pressure may be measured via the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure (OECD standard 104).
A “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also comprising at least one oxygen, optionally nitrogen, atom. These oils are thus different from silicone oils. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
The term “silicone oil” denotes an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and notably containing Si-O groups.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of non-volatile second oil(s) ranges from 10 to 35% by weight, preferably from 15 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

POLAR, NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OIL

For the purposes of the invention, a polar hydrocarbon oil comprises, besides the carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen or nitrogen atom, and preferably at least one oxygen atom.
Among the polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils suitable for carrying out the invention, mention may be made of the oils more particularly chosen from:
- C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols, preferably monohydric alcohols;
- ethers of formula ROR' or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', in which formulae, the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C₃-C₁₆ group;
- non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12;
- mixtures thereof.

C10-C26 alcohols

The alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols. They comprise a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical comprising from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monohydric alcohols.
Preferably, said alcohol(s) shall be chosen from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, preferably octyldodecanol.

Non-volatile ether or carbonate oils

Among the suitable non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of ethers of formula ROR' or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', in which formulae, the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, preferably a C₃-C₁₆ group.
Preferably, the oil(s) may be chosen from:
- dicaprylyl ether,
- dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, and C₁₄-C₁₅ dialkyl carbonate.
Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils with ester function(s)
The non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may also comprise at least one oil chosen more particularly from hydrocarbon compounds comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group, the total number of carbon atoms preferably being at least 12. In addition, the ester oil can optionally comprise one or more ether or hydroxyl functions.
Among the suitable ester oils, mention may be made of monoesters and diesters optionally comprising one or two ether groups; linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic triesters optionally comprising one to three ether groups; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of a diol; esters and polyesters of a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid and of a dimer diol and of monoalcohols; plant oils, and also mixtures thereof.
* Linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic monoesters or diesters comprising more particularly from 12 to 80 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one or two ether groups. Mention may be made, among the compounds of this type, of monoesters or diesters obtained from a saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 and preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and from a saturated or unsaturated monoalcohol or polyol, comprising from 2 to 26 and in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms and from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12 and preferably at least 16. In addition, the ester can optionally comprise one or two ether groups and optionally one or two hydroxyl groups.
By way of example, mention may be made of 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, glyceryl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, mixtures of esters of capric acid, of caprylic acid and of a coconut-derived alcohol (C₁₂-C₁₈ alcohols), 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof.
Mention may also be made of optionally hydroxylated esters of a C₂-C₈ mono- or polycarboxylic acid and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol. Suitable in particular for the implementation of the invention are the monoesters of a C₂-C₈ carboxylic acid and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol, which are optionally hydroxylated, and the diesters of a C₂-C₈ dicarboxylic acid and of a C₂-C₈ alcohol, which are optionally hydroxylated, such as diisopropyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate or bis(2-ethylhexyl) succinate.
Mention may also be made of linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic esters of a saturated or unsaturated monocarboxylic acid, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, and of diols, in particular glycols, notably of C₂-C₅, of glycerol or of polyglycerol. Mention may be made for example of propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and also mixtures thereof.
* Linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic triesters comprising up to 80 carbon atoms and optionally comprising one to three ether groups. Suitable for the invention are the esters obtained from linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic C₂-C₄₀, preferably C₄-C₄₀, mono- or polycarboxylic acids, which are optionally hydroxylated, and from C₂-C₄₀, preferably C₃-C₄₀, polyols or monoalcohols, said polyesters optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl.
Use may be made, for example, of triacetin and also triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated C₄-C₃₆ fatty acids, more particularly saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₈-C₂₀ fatty acids, such as, for example, triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid; in particular, mention may be made of saturated triglycerides, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, for example such as the products sold under the DUB MCT range by Stéarinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, triglycerides of C_18-36 acid, such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 by Stéarinerie Dubois, or glyceryl triisostearate.
Mention may also be made of triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol and of monocarboxylic acids, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate or glyceryl tri(2-decyltetradecanoate).
Mention may also be made, by way of example, of oils comprising three ester functions, which are optionally hydroxylated or acetylated, of a C₂-C₉ acid comprising three carboxyl functions, which is optionally hydroxylated, and of a C₂-C₂₀ monoalcohol. Mention may be made of citric acid esters, such as, for example, triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, tributyl acetylcitrate and likewise tridecyl trimellitate, and also mixtures thereof.
* Tetraesters comprising in particular from 35 to 80 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups, such as tetraesters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetra(2-decyltetradecanoate).
* Polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may notably be made in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer) or else copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA, having the INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer.
* Esters of a dimer diol or of a polyol, and of a mono- and/or dicarboxylic acid. Mention may be made for example of esters of a dimer diol and of a fatty acid and esters of a dimer diol and of a dicarboxylic acid dimer, in particular which may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid notably of C₈ to C₃₄, notably of C₁₂ to C₂₂, in particular of C₁₆ to C₂₀ and more particularly of C₁₈, such as esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic dimer diols, having the INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, for instance those sold by Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5^® and DD-DA7^®.
Also suitable are esters derived from the esterification of a polyol, of at least one monocarboxylic acid and of at least one dicarboxylic acid, as described in particular in patent US 7317068. The polyol comprises more particularly 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, it preferably being pentaerythritol. More particularly, the monocarboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 6 to 22 carbon atoms, such as preferably stearic acid, isostearic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid or combinations thereof. As regards the linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic dicarboxylic acid, it comprises more particularly 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and is preferably adipic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of Pentaerythrityl Isostearate / Caprate / Caprylate / Adipate, sold in particular under the name Crodamol L by Croda, Pentaerythrityl Adipate/Caprate/Caprylate/Heptanoate sold under the name Lexfeel 700 EX-LO MB by Inolex.
* plant oils such as for example castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, Rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, marula oil, camelina oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood nut oil, babassu oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also mixtures thereof.
Preferably, an oil is chosen from castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, and also mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the polar hydrocarbon oil(s) shall be chosen from:
- plant oils, in particular those just listed;
- optionally hydroxylated ester oils comprising from 1 to 4 ester functions, of which at least one of them, which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 12 carbon atoms;
- mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.
More particularly, the content of polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s), if the composition contains any, ranges from 1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In accordance with an advantageous embodiment of the present invention, the composition comprises this from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, even more particularly from 3 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

NON-POLAR NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OIL

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-polar oil” is intended to mean an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.
More particularly, the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil, different from the first oil or oils mentioned above, may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, plant or synthetic origin such as, for instance:
- liquid paraffin,
- squalane, in particular of plant origin,
- isoeicosane,
- mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, more particularly the mixtures of which the INCI names are, for example, the following: C18-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 60 and Gemseal 120 sold by Total,
- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for instance products of the Indopol range sold by Ineos Oligomers,
- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for instance the non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by Nippon Oil & Fats,
- hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for instance non-volatile compounds of the Silkflo range sold by Ineos, and Dekanex by IMCD,
- and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil.
More particularly, the content of non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s), if the composition contains any, ranges from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, even more particularly from 3 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

NON-VOLATILE SILICONE OIL

As regards the non-volatile silicone oils, the latter may be non-phenyl silicone oils, or phenyl silicone oils optionally comprising at least one dimethicone fragment.
The term “phenyl(ated)” specifies that said oil includes, in its structure, at least one phenyl radical.
The term “dimethicone fragment” denotes a divalent siloxane group, the silicon atom of which bears two methyl radicals, this group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule. It may be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH₃)₂-O)-.
Preferably, the silicones do not comprise a C₂-C₃ alkylene oxide group or a glycerolated group.
Among the non-volatile non-phenyl silicones, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone), alkyldimethicones comprising at least one C₂-C₂₄ alkyl group, such as, for example, Cetyldimethicone, and also mixtures thereof. These oils are sold in particular under the name DOWSIL 2502 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Chemical; Abil Wax 9801 by Evonik. Among the polydimethysiloxanes (dimethicone), mention may be made of the products of the Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid range sold by Dow Chemical Company; the products of the Belsil DM range by Wacker; the products of the Mirasil DM range by Elkem Silicones, among others.
Among the non-volatile phenyl silicones comprising at least one dimethicone fragment, mention may be made of the compounds having the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane and also mixtures thereof. Such oils are sold in particular under the names Belsil PDM by Wacker; Mirasil P-DPDM by Elkem Silicones; KF-53, KF 54 by Shin Etsu; Silshine 150 Fluid by Momentive Performance Materials.
With regard to the non-volatile phenyl silicone oils with no dimethicone fragment(s), mention may be made of the compounds having the following INCI names: Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxanes, alone or as mixtures. These products are sold in particular by Dow Chemical Company under the name DOWSIL 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid; by Elkem Silicones with Mirasil PTM; by Jeen International Corporation under the name Jessilc PTMF; by Momentive Performance Materials under the name SF 1550 Fluid.
More particularly, the content of non-volatile silicone oil(s) ranges from 1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

ADDITIONAL VOLATILE OILS

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional oil chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, different from the abovementioned first oils, or silicone oils.
The term “volatile oil” denotes an oil having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging to 1300 Pa.

SILICONE OILS

Mention may in particular be made, as examples of volatile silicone oils, of dimethicones with a viscosity of less than 5 cSt (5 x 10^-3 mm²/s, measured in particular in accordance with standard ASTM D-445), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OILS

Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, which are preferably non-polar, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to less than 14 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and in particular:
- branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane or isodecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopar, sold by ExxonMobil,
- linear alkanes, preferably for example such as the mixture of n-decane (C10) and n-dodecane (C12) sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight silk, n-dodecane (C12) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
More particularly, the content of volatile additional oil(s), if the composition comprises any, is less than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, even more preferentially less than or equal to 5% by weight, even more particularly less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

FILLERS

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one filler including at least one lipophilic clay comprising at least one ammonium group, in an amount of between 1 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The filler, different from the abovementioned lipophilic clay, is chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers and also mixtures thereof.
The term “filler” denotes a particle of organic or mineral nature which is colourless or white, which is solid, which has any shape and which is insoluble in the medium of the composition at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. These fillers are advantageously dispersed in the composition.

LIPOPHILIC CLAY

The term “lipophilic clay” is understood to mean any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in an oily phase.
Clay denotes a material based on hydrated silicates and/or aluminosilicates, of lamellar structure.
The clays may be natural or synthetic and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as an ammonium halide, such as, for example, a C₁₀ to C₂₂ ammonium chloride, possibly comprising an aromatic group. In particular, mention may be made of halides, such as stearalkonium, benzalkonium or dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides, for example distearyldimethylammonium.
The clay may be chosen from bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites. Preferably, the clay is chosen from hectorites and bentonites.
The lipophilic hectorite suitable for carrying out the invention may be chosen from the modified hectorites having the following INCI names: Disteardimonium hectorite, Stearalkonium Hectorites, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, alone or as mixtures. Preferably, the composition comprises Disteardimonium hectorite.
The lipophilic bentonite suitable for carrying out the invention may be chosen from the bentonites having the following INCI names: Quaternium-18 Bentonites, Stearalkonium Bentonites, Quaternium-18/Benzalkonium Bentonites, alone or as mixtures.
Preferably, the lipophilic clay comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group is in the form of a powder. More particularly, it is not used in an activated form. Thus, the lipophilic clay comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group, used for the preparation of the composition according to the invention, is not in a form that is predispersed, in particular in a solvent chosen, for example, from C₁-C₂ alcohols, such as methanol, ethanol; propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate, and mixtures thereof, notably in the form of a gel.
Among the modified hectorites which can be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of:
*among Disteardimonium Hectorites: Bentone 38V CG;
*among Stearalkonium Hectorites: Bentone 27V; sold by Elementis Specialties.
Among the modified bentonites which can be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made, alone or as mixtures, of:
*among the quaternium-18 bentonites: Bentone 34 sold by Elementis Specialties; Claytone 40, Tixogel VP sold by BYK Additives Inc;
*among Stearalkonium Bentonites, Tixogel VZ, Claytone AF, Claytone APA sold by BYK Additives Inc;
*among Quaternium-18/Benzalkonium Bentonites: Claytone HT sold by BYK Additives Inc.
According to a preferred embodiment, the filler of lipophilic clay type comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group is chosen from lipophilic hectorites comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group, in particular disteardimonium hectorite.
As indicated above, the content of lipophilic clay comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group ranges from 1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

FILLERS DIFFERENT FROM THE LIPOPHILIC CLAY

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a content of mineral and/or organic filler(s) of between 1 and 12% by weight, preferentially between 1 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

MINERAL FILLERS

The term “mineral filler” is understood to mean any compound in which the chemical structure does not comprise a carbon atom, independently of the presence of a coating of said filler.
The fillers are in the form of particles and are distinct from the dyestuffs that will be described below.
The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be particles in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibres or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers can be spherical, that is to say comprise at least a rounded general portion, in particular defining at least a sphere portion, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, etc.), or lamellar.
In accordance with a particular embodiment of the invention, the fillers more particularly have a mean particle size (expressed as volume mean diameter - D[0.5]) of at least 1 µm, preferably at least 2 µm, advantageously of between 2 and 15 µm. The size of the particles can be measured by laser diffraction using a commercial particle size analyser such as the Mastersizer 3000 from Malvern. (see also standard ISO 13320).
The fillers used in the composition according to the invention may or may not be surface coated, and in particular they may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent, in particular promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones, in particular silanes; fluorinated derivatives, fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The term “alkyl” mentioned in the compounds cited previously notably denotes an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
Such fillers are advantageously chosen from:
- silica (INCI name: Silica), preferably in the form of spherical particles, such as the porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 by Myoshi; “Sunsphere H51” and “Sunsphere H33” by Asahi Glass; the polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres sold under the name “SA Sunsphere H 33” and “SA Sunsphere H53” by Asahi Glass; hollow silica microspheres;
- perlite, such as those sold by World Minerals under the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550, Perlite P2040, OpTiMatTM 1430 OR or 2550 OR; Europerl EMP-2 and Europerl 1 by Imerys;
- zeolites such as the products sold by Zeochem under the names ZeoFlair 300, Zeoflair 200, Zeoflair 100, X-MOL and X-MOL MT;
- calcium magnesium carbonate particles, such as those sold by Imerys under the name Calcidol, by LCW (Sensient) under the name Carbomat or by Omya under the name Omyacare S 60-AV. Calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate and hydroxyapatite are also suitable;
- particles of kaolin or talc, for example sold under the Imercare, Imercare Pharma ranges; Luzenac Pharma by Imerys; Rose Talc by Nippon Talc;
- natural or synthetic mica, such as the product with the INCI name Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, sold under the names RonaFlair Silk Mica by Merck, Sericite PHN by Presperse, NHS-100 and NHS-150 by Myoshi Kasei, those sold under the names PDM-NSO or FNK-100 by Topy;
- boron nitride; composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass; bismuth oxychloride;
- glass or ceramic microcapsules; for example, borosilicate particles;
- mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as mineral filler, kaolin, mica and optionally silica, and also mixtures thereof.
In accordance with a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the mineral filler content represents from 1 to 12% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

ORGANIC FILLERS

For the purposes of the invention, the term “organic filler” is understood to mean solid particles of at least one hydrocarbon, silicone-based compound, or combinations thereof, independently of their coating.
The fillers in the form of particles may or may not also be surface treated by means of compounds such as those described above in the context of the mineral fillers.
The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be in lamellar, globular or spherical form, in the form of fibres or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers can be spherical, that is to say comprise at least a rounded general portion, in particular defining at least a sphere portion, preferably internally defining a concavity or a hollow (sphere, globules, bowls, horseshoe, etc.), or lamellar.
Among suitable fillers, mention may be made of:
- natural or synthetic micronized waxes;
- metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate;
- natural organic materials such as polysaccharide powders and in particular starch powders, especially crosslinked or non-crosslinked corn, wheat or rice starch powders, powders of starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride sold under the name Dry-Flo® by National Starch or powders of waxy corn starch, such as those which are sold under the names C* Gel 04201 by Cargill, Maize Starch B by Roquette and Organic Corn Starch by Draco Natural Products;
- cellulose, in particular in the form of spherical particles, such as products of the Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF type sold by Daito Kasei Kogyo;
- N-(C₈-C₂₂ acylated) amino acids; the amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine; Mention may be made, for example, of lauroyl lysine sold in particular under the names Amihope LL by Ajinomoto or Corum 5105 by Corum;
- particles of acrylic (co)polymers and derivatives thereof, in particular:
* of polymethyl methacrylate (INCI name: Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Covabead LH85 by Sensient, or Polymethyl Methacrylate under the names Sepimat P by SEPPIC and Microsphere M-100® by Matsumoto Yushi-Seiyaku;
* of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate (INCI name: Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Dow Corning 5640 Microsponge Skin Oil Adsorber by Dow Corning;
* of crosslinked acrylate (INCI name: Acrylates Crosspolymer) sold for example under the name Ganzpearl GMP-0820 by Ganz Chemical;
* of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate sold under the name Poly-Pore L200 or Poly-Pore E200 by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.;
- of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer (INCI name: Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Polytrap 6603 Adsorber by Amcol Health and Beauty Solutions Inc.;
* of crosslinked acrylate/alkyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name: Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) sold under the name Techpolymer ACP-8C by Sekisui Plastics;
* of ethylene/acrylate copolymer, such as that sold under the name Flobeads® by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals;
- particles of acrylonitrile (co)polymer, in particular the expanded hollow particles sold under the name Expancel by Akzo Nobel, or the microspheres sold under the name Micropearl F 80 ED® by Matsumoto;
- polyurethane particles, for example sold under the names D-400, D-800 (INCI name: HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer (and) Silica), CS-400 (INCI name: HDI/PPG/Polycaprolactone Crosspolymer(and) Silica), by Toshiki;
- silicone polymer particles, advantageously chosen from:
* silicone resin particles such as those having the INCI name Polymethylsilsesquioxane sold in particular under the name Tospearl, in particular Tospearl 145 A, by Momentive Performance Materials;
* silicone elastomer particles coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, such as the products sold under the names KSP-100, KSP-101, KSP-102, KSP-103, KSP-104, KSP-105 (INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer), or KSP-300 (INCI name: Diphenyl Dimethicone/Vinyl Diphenyl Dimethicone/Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer) by Shin Etsu;
* silicone elastomer particles such as the products sold under the name Dowsil 9506 Cosmetic Powder by Dow Corning (INCI name: Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer);
* Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer particles, for example in the form of bowls, such as those sold in particular under the name TAK-110 by Takemoto Oil & Fat;
- polyamide particles, such as Nylon®, in particular Nylon 12, Nylon 6/12; for instance the nylon powders sold under the names Orgasol 2002 EXS NAT COS, Orgasol 4000 EXD NAT COS Caresse, by Arkema;
- particles of tetrafluoroethylene polymers (Teflon®).
Preferably, if the composition comprises it, the organic filler may be chosen from cellulose particles, particles of N-(C₈-C₂₂ acylated) amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine, and also mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially cellulose particles.
In accordance with a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of organic filler represents from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the present invention, it may be that the composition does not comprise polymeric organic fillers, considered to be microplastics. It will be recalled that, for the purposes of the invention, the term “microplastics” means solid particles, having a stable shape, of polymer comprising carbon atoms in the polymer chain (backbone), of synthetic origin or of chemically modified natural origin, insoluble in water (i.e. less than 2 g/l; OECD Directive 105), with a size less than 5 mm (and with a size less than 15 mm for fibres). The term “stable form” denotes particles remaining solid in the composition and after its use. For example, polymer particles forming a film in the composition or when said composition is used are not considered to be of stable shape. Thus, preferably, it may be that the composition according to the invention does not comprise particles of acrylic polymers or copolymers, acrylonitriles, polyurethanes, polyamides, tetrafluoroethylene polymers or silicone polymers, as described above. If, however, the composition were to comprise any, their content would preferably be less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight and advantageously less than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, if the composition comprises them, the content of organic fillers of the aforementioned microplastic type is less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and very advantageously, the composition is devoid of them.
Preferably, the composition may comprise at least one mineral filler chosen from kaolin, mica and optionally silica, and mixtures thereof. The composition may also comprise at least one organic filler, particularly cellulose, N-(C₈-C₂₂ acylated) amino acids such as lauroyl lysine, and also mixtures thereof. Preferably, the organic filler is chosen from cellulose.
The total content of filler(s) (consequently taking into account the lipophilic clay comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group described above) advantageously represents from 1 to 15% by weight, more particularly from 5 to 15% by weight, and even more particularly between 7 and 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

SILICONE ELASTOMER

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one silicone elastomer carried in at least one oil identical to or different from the first or second oil.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “carried” is understood to mean that the silicone elastomer is introduced into the composition in a form predispersed in at least one oil. More particularly, the elastomer is in the form of a homogeneous mixture of elastomer particles dispersed in said oil, which is stable for at least 24 hours at 20°C. Preferably, this elastomer is in the form of a gel in at least a first oil. In particular, a powder of silicone elastomer suspended in at least such an oil is not considered, for the purposes of the invention, to be an organopolysiloxane elastomer carried in at least one oil.
The terms “elastomer of silicone”, “silicone elastomer” and “polyorganosiloxane elastomer” are understood to mean a flexible, deformable, crosslinked organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has limited stretchability and contractility. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.
In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles may be spherical or non-spherical particles.
The silicone elastomer present in the composition according to the invention is preferably a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.
The term “non-emulsifying” defines silicone elastomers containing no hydrophilic chain, and in particular containing no polyoxyalkylene (notably polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) units or polyglyceryl units.
Thus, the silicone elastomer may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, or else a hydrocarbon chain having ethylenically unsaturated groups at each end, notably in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, notably in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, notably in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.
Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, notably in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for instance, in patent application EP-A-295 886.
In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane bearing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
The compound (A) is the base reactant for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by an addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).
The compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to separate silicon atoms in each molecule.
The compound (A) can exhibit any molecular structure, in particular a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
The compound (A) can have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, in particular in order to be readily miscible with the compound (B).
The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
The compound (A) can thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers or cyclic dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers.
The compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower (for example C₂-C₄) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups can be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) can have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear-chain structure is preferred. The compound (B) can have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.
Besides the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane/dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxanes, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers.
In particular, the elastomeric organopolysiloxane may be obtained via reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and of trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.
It is advantageous for the compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio of the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (A) to the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) is within the range from 1.5/1 to 20/1.
The compound (C) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and (B).
Non-emulsifying elastomers are described notably in patents EP 242 219, EP 295 886, EP 765 656 and in application JP-A-61-194009.
In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from the following compounds having the INCI names: Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3, and preferably from Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
As mentioned above, the elastomer present in the composition according to the invention is in a form carried in an oil which may be identical to or different from the first and second oils, and also the additional oils, described above and to the descriptions of which reference may be made.
Thus, the oil is chosen from silicone oils and from polar or non-polar, volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile, hydrocarbon oils.
According to a first embodiment of the invention, the oil is chosen from linear or cyclic, preferably linear, volatile silicone oils.
According to a second embodiment, the oil is chosen from phenylated or non-phenylated, non-volatile silicone oils, in particular having the INCI names: Dimethicone, Methyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Methicone, Phenyl Dimethicone and Phenyl Trimethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from those of Dimethicone type, in particular with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 5 to 500 cSt at 25°C.
According to a last particular embodiment of the invention, the oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, for example isododecane, or polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as for example esters, such as triethylhexanoin and plant oils.
As non-emulsifying elastomers, use may be made more particularly of those sold under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-016F, KSG-18A, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44, USG-102, USG-103, USG-105, USG-106 and USG-107A, by Shin Etsu; Dowsil DC9040 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil DC9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9045 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9350 Elastomer Blend, Dowsil 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-9241 Silicone Elastomer Blend, Dowsil EL-9140 DM Silicone Elastomer Blend, by Dow Chemical Company; SFE 839 Gel by Momentive Performance Materials.
The content of silicone elastomer, expressed as active material, ranges from 1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 4.5% by weight, very advantageously between 3 and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

WAXES

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one wax.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “wax” means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at ambient temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C that may be up to 120°C.
For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC Q2000 by TA Instruments with the TA Universal Analysis software.

The measuring protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, which corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed of the melting curve, representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
The enthalpy of fusion of the wax (∆Hf), corresponding to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained, can also be measured. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to cause the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
The waxes may be silicone waxes and, preferably, hydrocarbon waxes. They are also of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.
In particular, the waxes have a melting point preferably greater than or equal to 35°C and better still greater than or equal to 40°C.

NON-POLAR WAXES

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “non-polar hydrocarbon wax” means a wax constituted solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms, for instance N, O, Si, P, etc.
As examples of non-polar waxes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon waxes, for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes (or also Synthetic Wax) and microwaxes, notably polyethylene microwaxes.

POLAR HYDROCARBON WAXES

The polar waxes may in particular be hydrocarbon waxes.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polar hydrocarbon wax” means a wax of which the chemical structure is formed essentially of, or even is constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and which comprises at least one heteroatom more particularly chosen from oxygen, optionally nitrogen, or mixtures thereof. It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
A wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is preferred as polar hydrocarbon wax.
According to the invention, the term “ester wax” means a wax comprising at least one ester function. The ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.
According to the invention, the term “alcohol wax” means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
Use may notably be made, as ester wax, alone or as mixtures, of:
i) waxes of formula R₁COOR₂ in which R₁ and R₂ represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains, the number of atoms of which ranges from 6 to 50, notably from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, for instance O or N, and the melting point of which ranges more particularly from 30°C to 120°C. In particular, use may be made, as ester wax, of a C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C₂₀-C₄₀ alkyl stearate. Such waxes are notably sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P^®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P^®, Kester Wax K 80 P^® or Kester Wax K82H by Koster Keunen. Use may also be made of stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate and mixtures thereof;
ii) bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate;
iii) dicarboxylic acid diester waxes of general formula
R³-(-OCO-R⁴-COO-R⁵), in which R³ and R⁵ are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C₄-C₃₀ alkyl group and R⁴ represents a linear or branched C₄-C₃₀ aliphatic group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C₄-C₃₀ aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated;
iv) mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils notably containing linear or branched C₈-C₃₂ fatty chains, for instance hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil or hydrogenated coconut oil, and also the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, for example Phytowax Castor 22L73^®, or else the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those of the Phytowax Olive range, for example Phytowax Olive 18L57, sold by Sophim. Such waxes are notably described in patent application FR2792190;
v) waxes corresponding to the partial or total esters, preferably total esters, of a saturated, optionally hydroxylated, C₁₆-C₃₀ carboxylic acid with glycerol. The term “total esters” means that all the hydroxyl functions of glycerol are esterified. Mention may be made, by way of examples, of trihydroxystearin (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearin (or glyceryl tristearate) or tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture. Among the suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and of 12-hydroxystearic acid, or hydrogenated castor oil, for instance Thixcin R and Thixcin E sold by Elementis Specialties;
vi) mention may also be made of waxes of animal or plant origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, sunflower wax, especially refined;
vii) mention may also be made of natural or synthetic polyalkylenated or polyglycerolated hydrocarbon waxes, of animal or plant origin; the number of (C₂-C₄) oxyalkylene units may range from 2 to 100, the number of glycerol units may range from 1 to 20. By way of examples, mention may be made of polyoxyethylenated beeswaxes, such as PEG-6 beeswax or PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; polyoxyethylenated or polyoxypropylenated and hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated lanolin waxes, such as PEG-30 lanolin or PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerolated beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, the Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters mixture, polyglycerolated plant waxes, such as mimosa, jojoba or sunflower waxes, and mixtures thereof (Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters).

SILICONE WAXES

The term “silicone wax” is understood to mean a wax comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.
As silicone wax, examples that may be mentioned include mixtures comprising a compound of C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) type, for example the product Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax sold by Dow Corning. Mention may also be made of mixtures comprising a compound of the C30-45 Alkyl Methicone (INCI name) type, for instance the product Dow Corning® AMS-C30 Cosmetic Wax. Mention may also be made of siliconized beeswax.
Preferably, if the composition comprises any, the wax is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes. More particularly, it is chosen from non-polar waxes; polar hydrocarbon waxes such as waxes of animal or plant origin, waxes of animal or plant origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils; and also mixtures thereof; and preferably from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, such as, for example, polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, and also from polar hydrocarbon waxes such as, in particular, hydrogenated jojoba oil.
Preferably, the content of wax(es) advantageously ranges from 6 to 18% by weight, in particular from 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

PASTY HYDROCARBON COMPOUNDS

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one pasty hydrocarbon compound.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “pasty compound” means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, and including at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have a starting melting point of less than 20°C.
The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for the waxes. In the case of a pasty compound, the measuring protocol is, however, as follows:
A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak on the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at ambient temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at ambient temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the heat consumed by said substance in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.
Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon compound(s) shall be chosen from:
- plant butters, for instance mango butter, such as the product sold under the reference Lipex® 203 by AarhusKarlshamn, shea butter, in particular the product of which the INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as the product sold under the reference Sheasoft® by AarhusKarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as the product sold under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, and also orange wax, for example the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen;
- totally or partially hydrogenated plant oils, for instance hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated plant oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed plant oil, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel® by AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by Soliance;
- esters of hydrogenated castor oil and of C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, in particular of isostearic acid, for instance SALACOS HCIS (V-L), sold by Nisshin Oil;
- esters resulting from the condensation of a preferably saturated, linear or branched, C₆-C₁₀ dicarboxylic acid and of an ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, C₆-C₂₀ monocarboxylic acids, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and of a mixture of esters of diglycerol with a mixture of C₆-C₂₀ fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, sold in particular under the reference SOFTISAN® 649 by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2);
- triglycerides of fatty acids which are optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially), saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C₁₂-C₁₈; for instance the glycerides of saturated C₁₂-C₁₈ fatty acids sold under the name Softisan 100® by Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides);
- esters of diol dimer, or of polyol, and of diacid dimer, for instance:
* esters of dimer dilinoleyl alcohol and of dilinoleic acid, the hydroxyl groups of which are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, of behenyl alcohol and of isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytostearyl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
* esters of dilinoleic acid and of a mixture of phytosterols, of isostearyl alcohol, of cetyl alcohol, of stearyl alcohol and of behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl/Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
* esters of hydrogenated castor oil and of dimer dilinoleic acid, such as those sold under the names Risocast-DA-L or Risocast-DA-H by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).
Preferably, if the composition comprises any, the pasty compound(s) shall be chosen from plant butters, partially hydrogenated plant oils, the esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C₆-C₁₀ dicarboxylic acid and of ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, C₆-C₂₀ monocarboxylic acids, triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C₁₂-C₁₈, fatty acids and also mixtures thereof.
Even more preferably, if the composition comprises any, the pasty compound(s) shall be chosen from plant butters, partially hydrogenated plant oils, compounds having the INCI names Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytostearyl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl/Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, and also mixtures thereof.
If the composition comprises any, their content preferably ranges from 6 to 20% by weight, in particular from 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

DYESTUFFS

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one dyestuff, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.
The dyestuff may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, liposoluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

PIGMENTS

The term “pigments” means white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to colour the resulting composition and/or deposit.
According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
The term “mineral pigment” means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments which are of use in the present invention, of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide or metal powders, such as aluminium powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta₂O₅, Ti₃O₅, Ti₂O₃, TiO, ZrO₂ as a mixture with TiO₂, ZrO₂, Nb₂O₅, CeO₂, ZnS.
The size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm. According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 µm. The sizes are measured by light scattering using a commercial Mastersizer 3000® particle size analyser from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range that may extend from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed on the basis of the conventional Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows an “effective” particle diameter to be determined. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D[50] represents the maximum size exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.
In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide. Mention may more particularly be made, by way of examples, of titanium dioxides and iron oxide, which are coated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, for example sold under the reference NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei.
Mention may also be made, as mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, of pearlescent agents.
The term “pearlescent agents” should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any shape, which are or are not iridescent, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shells or else synthesized, and which exhibit a colour effect by optical interference.
The pearlescent agents can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an iron oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium oxide-coated mica covered with an organic dye and also pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
Examples of pearlescent agents that may also be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
The pearlescent agents can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
Among the pigments that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those having an optical effect different from a simple conventional colouring effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect such as that produced by conventional dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic pigments.
For the purposes of the invention, the term “stabilized” means lacking the effect of variability of the colour with the angle of observation or else in response to a temperature change.
For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, notably interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined in order simultaneously to afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention.
According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.
According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. In so far as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show predominant affinity for an oily phase, which can then carry them. The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
For the purposes of the invention, the “coating” of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed on, adsorbed on or grafted to said pigment.
The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
The surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond. According to one variant, the surface treatment consists in coating the pigments. The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the coated pigment.
The coating may be produced, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
The coating may be produced, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is notably described in patent US 4 578 266.
The chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.
According to one particular embodiment, the dyestuff is an organic pigment, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.
The term “organic pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal-complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane or quinophthalone compounds.
The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Colour Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.
The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may notably be composed of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
The pigment can also be a lake.
The term “lake” is understood to mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.
Mention may be made, among the organic dyes, of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
Mention may be made, by way of example of a lake, of the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

LIPOSOLUBLE DYES

For the purposes of the invention, the term “liposoluble dye” is understood to mean any natural or synthetic compound, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or the solvents miscible with the oily phase and which is capable of colouring.
Mention may in particular be made, as liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, of liposoluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red or Sudan Brown.
As illustrations of natural liposoluble dyes, mention may be made particularly of carotenes, for instance β-carotene, α-carotene and lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-di-p-toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, quinazine green SS) and chlorophylls.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises from 0.01% to 20% by weight, notably from 1% to 15% by weight and even more particularly from 3% to 15% by weight of dyestuff(s), relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition can also be free of dyestuff(s).

WATER

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water. Preferably, the water content does not exceed 5% by weight and preferably does not exceed 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more advantageously, the water content, if the composition comprises any, does not exceed 1% by weight, notably does not exceed 0.5% by weight and even more particularly does not exceed 0.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

OPTIONAL ADJUVANTS

In the context of the present invention, the composition can additionally contain at least one optional adjuvant chosen from those generally used in the cosmetics field, in particular for makeup and/or care compositions for the skin and the lips.
By way of examples, mention may be made of lipophilic mineral thickeners, organic thickeners such as, for example, dextrin esters; preservatives; antioxidants; complexing agents; solvents; active agents; fragrances; etc.
Among the lipophilic mineral thickeners, which are distinct from the mineral fillers mentioned above, and in particular different from the lipophilic clays, mention may be made of the compounds chosen from those having the following INCI names: Silica Silylate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, and also mixtures thereof.
These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.
These optional adjuvants may be present in a content which may range up to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to the invention may be prepared to the methods which are conventional in the field, preferably with a filler of lipophilic clay type comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group being used in powder form and not in a form that is predispersed, notably in the form of a gel, in particular in a solvent chosen, for example, from C₁-C₂ alcohols, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate, and mixtures thereof.
The examples which follow will make possible a better understanding of the invention without, however, exhibiting a limiting nature.
The starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name.
The amounts indicated are percentages by weight of starting materials, unless otherwise stated.

EXAMPLES

EXAMPLE 1

The following composition, the list of the ingredients and the contents of which are collated in the table below, was prepared:

Ingredients	Composition 1	Comparative Composition A
Disteardimonium Hectorite (BENTONE 38 VCG RHEOLOGICAL ADDITIVE; Elementis Specialties)	2.0	2.0
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parleam, Nippon Oil & Fats)	3.9	3.9
Polyethylene (PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE, Nucera Solutions)	3.9	3.9
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (SOFTISAN 649, Cremer Oleo)	9.3	9.3
Isohexadecane (Ineos)	18.8
Isododecane (Ineos)		18.8
Mica (MEARLMICA SV; BASF)	3.0	3.0
Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (JOJOBA WAX FLAKES, Desert Whale)	4.5	4.5
Isostearyl Isostearate	2.4	2.4
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000, Wacker)	3.1	3.1
Tridecyl Trimellitate	3.4	3.4
Silica (SOLESPHERE H 51, AGC-Si Tech)	2.0	2.0
Antioxidant	qs	qs
Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (DOWSIL EL-9241 DM SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND; Dow Chemical)	25.0	25.0
Paraffin (and) Microcrystalline Wax (and) Synthetic Wax (PARACERA 30540, Paramelt)	2.6	2.6
Kaolin (IMERCARE 04K, Imerys)	3.0	3.0
Red 7 (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone	2.8	2.8
Yellow 6 Lake (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone	10.2	10.2

Preparation process:

1. The oils (Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isostearyl Isostearate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone) and the pasty compound (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) are mixed with stirring.
2. Once a homogeneous mixture has been obtained, the pigments are added with stirring and the mixture is heated to 45°C.
3. When the mixture is homogeneous, isohexadecane or isododecane is added, with stirring.
4. After homogenization of the mixture, the fillers (kaolin, silica, Disteardimonium Hectorite, mica) are added with stirring.
5. The mixture is heated to 90°C and the waxes (polyethylene, hydrogenated jojoba oil) and then the silicone elastomer are introduced, with stirring.
6. After a homogeneous mixture has been obtained, it is poured into the moulds and allowed to cool before removing from the moulds and packaging the resulting sticks of lipstick.

Evaluation of the compositions:

	Composition 1	Comparative Composition A
Hardness	134 g	150 g
Gloss	24	0.8
Appearance of the stick	Homogeneous without defect	Homogeneous without defect
Application	Easy to apply in an intense, covering, homogeneous deposit with a very matte appearance and exhibiting good wear over time	Considerable drag, difficult to apply, limited blotting, intense, very matte, homogeneous and covering deposit with a good wear property
Comfort	Comfortable, does not dry out the lips	Not comfortable, very drying

EXAMPLE 2

Ingredients	Composition 2
Disteardimonium Hectorite (BENTONE 38 VCG RHEOLOGICAL ADDITIVE; Elementis Specialties)	2
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parleam, Nippon Oil & Fats)	3.9
Polyethylene (PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE, Nucera Solutions)	3.9
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (SOFTISAN 649, Cremer Oleo)	9.3
Isohexadecane (Ineos)	18.8
Mica (MEARLMICA SV; BASF)	3.0
Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (JOJOBA WAX FLAKES, Desert Whale)	4.5
Isostearyl Isostearate	2.4
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000, Wacker)	3.1
Tridecyl Trimellitate	3.4
Cellulose (CELLULOBEADS USF; Daito Kasei Kogyo)	2.0
Antioxidant	qs
Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (DOWSIL EL-9241 DM SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND; Dow Chemical)	25.0
Paraffin (and) Microcrystalline Wax (and) Synthetic Wax (PARACERA 30540, Paramelt)	2.6
Kaolin (IMERCARE 04K, Imerys)	3.0
Red 7 (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone	2.8
Yellow 6 Lake (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone	10.2

Preparation process:

1. The oils (Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isostearyl Isostearate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone) and the pasty compound (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) are mixed with stirring.
2. Once a homogeneous mixture has been obtained, the pigments are added with stirring and the mixture is heated to 45°C.
3. When the mixture is homogeneous, the isohexadecane is added with stirring.
4. After homogenization of the mixture, the fillers (kaolin, cellulose, Disteardimonium Hectorite, mica) are added with stirring.
5. The mixture is heated to 90°C and the waxes (polyethylene, hydrogenated jojoba oil) and then the silicone elastomer are introduced, with stirring.
6. After a homogeneous mixture has been obtained, it is poured into the moulds and allowed to cool before removing from the moulds and packaging the resulting sticks of lipstick.

Evaluation of the compositions:

	Composition 2
Hardness	126 g
Gloss	22
Appearance of the stick	Homogeneous without defect
Application	Easy to apply in an intense, covering, homogeneous deposit with a very matte appearance, exhibiting good wear over time
Comfort	Comfortable, not or not very drying

EXAMPLE 3

Ingredients	Composition 3
Disteardimonium Hectorite (BENTONE 38 VCG RHEOLOGICAL ADDITIVE; Elementis Specialties)	2
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parleam, Nippon Oil & Fats)	3.9
Polyethylene (PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE, Nucera Solutions)	3.9
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (SOFTISAN 649, Cremer Oleo)	9.3
Isohexadecane (Ineos)	18.8
Mica (MEARLMICA SV; BASF)	3.0
Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (JOJOBA WAX FLAKES, Desert Whale)	4.5
Isostearyl Isostearate	2.4
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000, Wacker)	3.1
Tridecyl Trimellitate	3.4
Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer (KSP-100; Shin-Etsu)	2.0
Antioxidant	qs
Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (DOWSIL EL-9241 DM SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND; Dow Chemical)	25.0
Paraffin (and) Microcrystalline Wax (and) Synthetic Wax (PARACERA 30540, Paramelt)	2.6
Kaolin (IMERCARE 04K, Imerys)	3.0
Red 7 (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone	2.8
Yellow 6 Lake (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone	10.2

Preparation process:

1. The oils (Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isostearyl Isostearate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone) and the pasty compound (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) are mixed with stirring.
2. Once a homogeneous mixture has been obtained, the pigments are added with stirring and the mixture is heated to 45°C.
3. When the mixture is homogeneous, the isohexadecane is added with stirring.
4. After homogenization of the mixture, the fillers (kaolin, Disteardimonium Hectorite, KSP-100, mica) are added with stirring.
5. The mixture is heated to 90°C and the waxes (polyethylene, hydrogenated jojoba oil) and then the silicone elastomer are introduced, with stirring.
6. After a homogeneous mixture has been obtained, it is poured into the moulds and allowed to cool before removing from the moulds and packaging the resulting sticks of lipstick.

Evaluation of the compositions:

	Composition 3
Hardness	134 g
Gloss	68
Appearance of the stick	Homogeneous without defect
Application	Easy to apply in an intense, covering, homogeneous deposit with a matte appearance, exhibiting good wear over time
Comfort	Comfortable, not or not very drying

EXAMPLE 4

Ingredients	Composition 4
Disteardimonium Hectorite (BENTONE 38 VCG RHEOLOGICAL ADDITIVE; Elementis Specialties)	2
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parleam, Nippon Oil & Fats)	5.5
Polyethylene (PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE, Nucera Solutions)	3.9
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (SOFTISAN 649, Cremer Oleo)	13
Isohexadecane (Ineos)	10
Mica (MEARLMICA SV; BASF)	3.0
Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (JOJOBA WAX FLAKES, Desert Whale)	4.5
Isostearyl Isostearate	3.3
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000, Wacker)	4.3
Tridecyl Trimellitate	4.7
Silica (SOLESPHERE H 51, AGC-Si Tech)	2.0
Antioxidant	qs
Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (DOWSIL EL-9241 DM SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND; Dow Chemical)	25.0
Paraffin (and) Microcrystalline Wax (and) Synthetic Wax (PARACERA 30540, Paramelt)	2.6
Kaolin (IMERCARE 04K, Imerys)	3.0
Red 7 (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone	2.8
Yellow 6 Lake (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone	10.2

Preparation process:

Evaluation of the compositions:

	Composition 3
Hardness	181 g
Gloss	27
Appearance of the stick	Homogeneous without defect
Application	Easy to apply in an intense, covering, homogeneous deposit with a very matte appearance, exhibiting good wear over time
Comfort	Comfortable, not or not very drying

EXAMPLE 5

The following comparative composition was prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of said composition being collated in the table below:

Ingredients	Comparative Composition B
Isododecane (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate (BENTONE GEL ISD V, Elementis Specialties)	2.0
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parleam, Nippon Oil & Fats)	3.9
Polyethylene (PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE, Nucera Solutions)	3.9
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (SOFTISAN 649, Cremer Oleo)	9.3
Isohexadecane (Ineos)	18.8
Mica (MEARLMICA SV; BASF)	3.0
Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (JOJOBA WAX FLAKES, Desert Whale)	4.5
Isostearyl Isostearate	2.4
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000, Wacker)	3.1
Tridecyl Trimellitate	3.4
Silica (SOLESPHERE H 51, AGC-Si Tech)	2.0
Antioxidant	qs
Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (DOWSIL EL-9241 DM SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND; Dow Chemical)	25.0
Paraffin (and) Microcrystalline Wax (and) Synthetic Wax (PARACERA 30540, Paramelt)	2.6
Kaolin (IMERCARE 04K, Imerys)	3.0
Red 7 (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone	2.8
Yellow 6 Lake (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone	10.2

Preparation process:

1. The oils (Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isostearyl Isostearate, Tridecyl Trimellitate, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone) and the pasty compound (Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2) are mixed, with stirring, with activated hectorite (BENTONE GEL ISD V).
2. Once a homogeneous mixture has been obtained, the pigments are added with stirring and the mixture is heated to 45°C.
3. When the mixture is homogeneous, the isohexadecane is added with stirring.
4. After homogenization of the mixture, the fillers (kaolin, silica, mica) are added with stirring.
5. The mixture is heated to 90°C and the waxes (polyethylene, hydrogenated jojoba oil) and then the silicone elastomer are introduced, with stirring.
6. After a homogeneous mixture has been obtained, it is poured into the moulds and allowed to cool before removing from the moulds and packaging the resulting sticks of lipstick.

Evaluation of the compositions:

	Comparative Composition 4
Hardness	252 g
Gloss	6.5
Appearance of the stick	Homogeneous without defect
Application	Very hard stick, composition difficult to apply, drags, the deposit obtained is very matte
Comfort	Not very comfortable, drying

Example 6

Ingredients	Composition 5
Disteardimonium Hectorite (BENTONE 38 VCG RHEOLOGICAL ADDITIVE; Elementis Specialties)	1.5
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Parleam, Nippon Oil & Fats)	7.2
Polyethylene (PERFORMALENE 500-L POLYETHYLENE, Nucera Solutions)	1.2
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (SOFTISAN 649, Cremer Oleo)	17
Isohexadecane (Ineos)	6
Mica (MEARLMICA SV; BASF)	3
Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil (JOJOBA WAX FLAKES, Desert Whale)	4.5
Isostearyl Isostearate	4.3
Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone (Belsil PDM 1000, Wacker)	5.5
Tridecyl Trimellitate	6.1
Silica (SOLESPHERE H 51, AGC-Si Tech)	4
Antioxidant	qs
Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (DOWSIL EL-9241 DM SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND; Dow Chemical)	25
Paraffin (and) Microcrystalline Wax (and) Synthetic Wax (PARACERA 30540, Paramelt)	6.1
Kaolin (IMERCARE 04K, Imerys)	3
Red 7 (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone	0.5
Iron Oxides (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone	4.2

Preparation process:

Evaluation of the compositions:

	Composition 5
Hardness	176 g
Gloss	35
Appearance of the stick	Homogeneous without defect
Application	The composition can be applied easily in a matte deposit with good wear over time
Comfort	Comfortable, non-drying

Claims

Solid matte cosmetic composition, preferably in the form of a stick, intended to be applied to the skin and/or the lips, comprising
* at least 5%, preferably at least 10%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one first saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched, preferably branched, non-polar C₁₄-C₁₉ hydrocarbon oil,
* at least one mineral or organic filler comprising at least one filler of lipophilic clay type comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group, said filler of lipophilic clay type being present in an amount of between 1 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,
* at least one second oil chosen from polar or non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oils different from the first oil, or non-volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof,
* at least one silicone elastomer in a form carried in at least one oil identical to or different from the first or second oil.
Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the first oil is chosen from the following oils, alone or as a mixture (INCI name): Tetradecane, Hexadecane, Isohexadecane, Octadecane, C15-19 Alkane, preferably Isohexadecane.
Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of first oil is between 10 and 25% by weight, more particularly between 15 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the filler of lipophilic clay type is chosen from hectorites comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group, bentonites comprising at least one quaternary ammonium group, or mixtures thereof, and preferably from Disteardimonium Hectorite, Stearalkonium Hectorite, Quaternium-18 Hectorite, and also mixtures thereof, and even more preferentially Disteardimonium Hectorite.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the filler of lipophilic clay type is used in the form of a powder.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the filler of lipophilic clay type is not used in a pre-dispersed form, in particular in a solvent chosen for example from C₁-C₂ alcohols, propylene carbonate, triethyl citrate, and mixtures thereof, notably in the form of a gel.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition may comprise:
* at least one mineral filler chosen from particles of silica (INCI name: Silica), preferably in the form of spherical particles; kaolin; mica; talc; perlite; boron nitride, calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate; hydroxyapatite, and also mixtures thereof; preferably from kaolin, mica and optionally silica, and mixtures thereof;
* at least one organic filler chosen from polyethylene, lauroyl lysine, starch, cellulose; particles of polyamide, polyurethane, acrylonitrile (co)polymer, polytetrafluoroethylene, acrylic acid (co)polymers; particles of silicone resins, silicone elastomers optionally coated with silicone resin, Methylsilanol/Silicate Crosspolymer; synthetic or natural micronized waxes; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms; glass or ceramic microcapsules; or mixtures thereof; preferably cellulose, N-(C₈-C₂₂ acylated) amino acids, mixtures thereof;
* mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of mineral and/or organic filler(s) ranges from 1 to 12% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of filler(s) represents from 1 to 15% by weight, more particularly from 5 to 15% by weight, and even more particularly between 7 and 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second oil is chosen from polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils such as C₁₀-C₂₆ alcohols; ethers of formula ROR' or carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', in which formulae, the groups R and R', which may be identical or different, represent a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched, hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms; oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group, the total number of carbon atoms being at least 12; ester oil which can optionally comprise one or more ether or hydroxyl functions, and also mixtures thereof; and preferably from plant oils; optionally hydroxylated ester oils comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which is saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and linear or branched, and comprises at least 12 carbon atoms; mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) ranges from 1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second oil is chosen from non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from liquid paraffin; squalane, in particular of plant origin; isoeicosane; mixtures of saturated linear hydrocarbons, more particularly C₂₁-C₂₈ saturated linear hydrocarbons; optionally hydrogenated polybutenes; optionally hydrogenated polyisobutenes; optionally hydrogenated polydecenes, and also mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) ranges from 1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 2 to 8% by weight, even more particularly from 3 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second oil is chosen from non-volatile silicone oils chosen from dimethicone, alkyl dimethicone in which the alkyl group is C₂ -C₂₄, phenyl silicones chosen from Phenyl Trimethicone and Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone; Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane; Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone; Diphenyl Dimethicone; Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane; and also mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of non-volatile silicone oil(s) ranges from 1 to 35% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 10 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of non-volatile second oil(s) ranges from 10 to 35% by weight and preferably from 15 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone elastomer is in the form of a gel.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone elastomer is chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Vinyl Dimethicone/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer; Dimethicone/Vinyltrimethylsoloxysilicate Crosspolymer, and also a mixture thereof, and preferably Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of silicone elastomer, expressed as active material, ranges from 1 to 5% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 4.5% by weight, very advantageously between 3 and 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one additional volatile oil chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon oils comprising from 8 to less than 14 carbon atoms; linear or cyclic silicone oils and mixtures thereof, the content of additional volatile oil(s), if the composition comprises any, being more particularly less than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, even more preferentially less than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone elastomer is carried out in at least one oil chosen from linear or cyclic, preferably linear, volatile silicone oils; from phenylated or non-phenylated, non-volatile silicone oils; from volatile hydrocarbon oils, for example isododecane, or polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, such as triethylhexanoin and plant oils; and preferably from linear volatile silicone oils; from phenylated or non-phenylated, non-volatile silicone oils, in particular having the INCI names: Dimethicone, Methyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Methicone, Phenyl Dimethicone and Phenyl Trimethicone.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises water, in a content of less than or equal to 2% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 1% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one dyestuff, in particular chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents and also mixtures thereof.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at least one wax chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes (or Synthetic Wax), polyethylene waxes, mixtures thereof; from polar hydrocarbon waxes such as alcohol waxes, ester waxes, in particular of plant origin, mixtures thereof; silicone waxes; and mixtures thereof, and preferably from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, such as polyethylene wax, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax, and from polar hydrocarbon waxes such as hydrogenated jojoba oil.
Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of wax ranges from 6 to 18% by weight, in particular from 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one pasty hydrocarbon compound, preferably chosen from plant butters, partially hydrogenated plant oils, esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C₆-C₁₀ dicarboxylic acid and of an ester of diglycerol and of optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched C₆-C₂₀ monocarboxylic acids, triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or polyhydroxylated, preferably C₁₂-C₁₈, fatty acids, and also mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from plant butters, partially hydrogenated plant oils, compounds having the INCI names Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 and Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl/Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, and also mixtures thereof.
Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of pasty compound ranges from 6 to 20% by weight and in particular from 8 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, which consists in applying the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.