Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/292—Conjugate, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, fibres or filaments
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
  • D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
  • D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
  • D01D5/253—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like with a non-circular cross section; Spinnerette packs therefor
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
  • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
  • D01F8/00—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof
  • D01F8/04—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers
  • D01F8/14—Conjugated, i.e. bi- or multicomponent, artificial filaments or the like; Manufacture thereof from synthetic polymers with at least one polyester as constituent
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
  • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
  • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
  • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
  • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
  • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/30—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments
  • D03D15/37—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the fibres or filaments with specific cross-section or surface shape
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/44—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific cross-section or surface shape
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/49—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads textured; curled; crimped
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
  • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
  • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
  • D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
  • D04B1/20—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads crimped threads
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
  • D04B—KNITTING
  • D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
  • D10B2401/02—Moisture-responsive characteristics
  • D10B2401/021—Moisture-responsive characteristics hydrophobic

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric having high droplet removability and being superior in motion comfort and texture.
• Patent Documents 1 and 2 does not have stretchability for following strenuous motions during wearing casual clothing, sports clothing, or the like, and their motion comfort is insufficient.
• the fabric described in Patent Document 3 has stretchability owing to containing stretchable fibers in a conjugated yarn, but has insufficient texture because non-crimp fibers are recommended as ultrafine fibers that are contained together with stretchable fibers and form fine loop shape of fibers. For these reasons, there is a demand for the development of a woven or knitted fabric that achieves not only droplet removability but also motion comfort and good texture and can be applied to each application.
• An object of the present invention is to solve the above problems of the prior art and provide a woven or knitted fabric having high droplet removability and being superior in motion comfort and texture.
• the present invention has the following configuration.
• a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric having a water repellent agent on a surface thereof, the woven or knitted fabric containing, as a constituent yarn, a combined-filament fiber including a fiber A having a multilobal shape cross section with protrusions on an outer peripheral portion and a fiber B having a cross section in a flat shape and being smaller in fineness than the fiber A, wherein both the fiber A and the fiber B are crimped fibers having a bimetal structure containing two polymers.
• latent crimps are made apparent by heat treatment such as dyeing processing, whereby a crimp difference occurs between the fiber A and the fiber B having a fineness difference.
• the fine crimps of the fiber B form a lotus-shaped uneven structure having a fine air layer on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, so that superior droplet removability can be obtained.
• the woven or knitted fabric is also superior in motion comfort and spun-like texture.
• the effect of unevenness referred to herein refers to the effect of the irregularities of the combined-filament fiber itself, and indicates the formation of an uneven structure on the surface of the combined-filament fiber itself as a result of combining large crimps having a large fineness and fine crimps having a small fineness.
• the fiber A is a crimped fiber having a multilobal shape cross section with protrusions on an outer peripheral portion in a combined-filament fiber including the fiber A and the fiber B.
• polymer constituting the fiber A examples include melt-moldable polymers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polypropylene, polyolefin, polycarbonate, polyacrylate, polyamide, polylactic acid, thermoplastic polyurethane, and polyphenylene sulfide, and copolymers thereof.
• melt-moldable polymers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polypropylene, polyolefin, polycarbonate, polyacrylate, polyamide, polylactic acid, thermoplastic polyurethane, and polyphenylene sulfide, and copolymers thereof.
• melt-moldable polymers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polypropylene
• the woven or knitted fabric shrinks to cause a difference in crimp pitch with the fiber B described later, so that a more effective air layer and a more effective uneven structure can be formed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and the droplet removability and the spun-like texture are further improved.
• the fiber A may contain, in the polymers, various additives such as inorganic substances such as titanium oxide, silica, and barium oxide, carbon black, colorants such as dyes and pigments, flame retardants, fluorescent brighteners, antioxidants, and ultraviolet absorbers, as necessary.
• additives such as inorganic substances such as titanium oxide, silica, and barium oxide, carbon black, colorants such as dyes and pigments, flame retardants, fluorescent brighteners, antioxidants, and ultraviolet absorbers, as necessary.
• the cross section of the fiber A has a multilobal shape with 6 to 30 protrusions on the outer peripheral portion. Owing to having the multilobal shape, not only spun-like texture can be obtained, but also a contact area between a water droplet and a fiber surface can be effectively reduced even in the fiber A having a relatively large fineness as described later, and a woven or knitted fabric superior in droplet removability can be obtained.
• the protrusions are preferably in a radial form in which the protrusions are arranged uniformly on the outer peripheral portion of the fiber surface in order to prevent unevenness in droplet removability. When the number of the protrusions is less than 6, spun-like texture cannot be obtained because the intervals between the protrusions are wide.
• the number of the protrusions is preferably 8 or more. Meanwhile, when the number of the protrusions exceeds 30, not only the protrusions are easily broken by physical action such as friction at the time of wearing to cause fibrillation and deteriorate the quality, but also the intervals between the protrusions formed on the outer peripheral portion of the fiber surface are excessively small, so that the fiber has a shape approximate to a round section, and the effect on droplet removability is reduced.
• the number of the protrusions is more preferably less than 15. The number of the protrusions can be measured by the method described in Examples.
• the fiber A preferably has a relatively large fineness as compared with the fiber B in a flat shape to be described later, and the fineness ratio of the fiber A to the fiber B represented by the following Equation 1 is preferably 2.0 or more (more preferably 2.0 to 2000.0, particularly preferably 5.0 to 200.0).
• the fineness ratio of the fiber A to the fiber B is 2.0 or more, a crimp difference is likely to occur between the fiber A and the fiber B, fine irregularities or air layers are formed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric, and sufficient droplet removability and spun-like texture can be obtained.
• the fineness ratio is more preferably 5.0 or more.
• fineness ratio fineness [dtex] of fiber A/fineness [dtex] of fiber B
• the fineness of the fiber A is preferably 0.5 to 5.0 dtex.
• the fineness of the fiber A is more preferably 1.0 dtex or more.
• a crimp difference from the fiber B effective for droplet removability is likely to be obtained, and a contact surface with water droplets is reduced, so that higher droplet removability can be obtained.
• the fineness of the fiber A is more preferably 2.5 dtex or less. The fineness can be measured by the method described in Examples.
• the fiber B is a crimped fiber having a cross section in a flat shape in the combined-filament fiber including the fiber A and the fiber B.
• polymer constituting the fiber B examples include melt-moldable polymers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polypropylene, polyolefin, polycarbonate, polyacrylate, polyamide, polylactic acid, thermoplastic polyurethane, and polyphenylene sulfide, and copolymers thereof.
• melt-moldable polymers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polypropylene, polyolefin, polycarbonate, polyacrylate, polyamide, polylactic acid, thermoplastic polyurethane, and polyphenylene sulfide, and copolymers thereof.
• melt-moldable polymers such as polyethylene terephthalate, polyethylene naphthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polypropylene
• the fiber B is a crimped fiber in which those two polymers are combined in a bimetal structure (including a side-by-side type and an eccentric core-sheath type), and is a crimped fiber in which latent crimps are made apparent by heat treatment such as dyeing processing.
• a bimetal structure including a side-by-side type and an eccentric core-sheath type
• latent crimps are made apparent by heat treatment such as dyeing processing.
• the fiber B may contain, in the polymers, various additives such as inorganic substances such as titanium oxide, silica, and barium oxide, carbon black, colorants such as dyes and pigments, flame retardants, fluorescent brighteners, antioxidants, and ultraviolet absorbers, as necessary.
• additives such as inorganic substances such as titanium oxide, silica, and barium oxide, carbon black, colorants such as dyes and pigments, flame retardants, fluorescent brighteners, antioxidants, and ultraviolet absorbers, as necessary.
• the cross section of the fiber B has a flat shape having a difference in length between the major axis direction and the minor axis direction of the cross section, namely, having a flatness of 1.1 to 5.0.
• a flat shape is crimped, not only spun-like texture reproducing a twisted structure of cotton can be obtained, but also a contact area between a water droplet and a fiber surface can be effectively reduced, and a woven or knitted fabric superior in droplet removability can be obtained.
• the "flatness" is defined to be a value obtained by calculating an average value of the flatness determined in accordance with the following Equation 2 for the fibers B contained in one combined-filament fiber sampled from the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
• the flatness exceeds 5.0, a single yarn is excessively thin, and a repulsive feeling exhibited when the combined-filament fiber is bent is reduced, so that spun-like texture cannot be obtained.
• the flatness is preferably 4.0 or less to suppress a decrease in the effect on droplet removability caused by the fact that the contact surface between a water droplet and the fiber surface is excessively sharp and the water droplet cannot be supported and is grasped.
• the fiber B has a relatively small fineness as compared with the fiber A, and to develop a crimp difference with the fiber A, the fiber B preferably has the fineness such that the fineness ratio of the fiber A to the fiber B represented by the Equation 1 is 2.0 or more.
• the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention contains a combined-filament fiber including the fiber A and the fiber B, and may contain a fiber other than the fibers A and B.
• a fiber other than the fiber A and the fiber B are contained, the type and shape thereof are not particularly limited.
• both the fiber A and the fiber B are crimped fibers having a bimetal structure containing two polymers.
• Use of a bimetal yarn containing two polymers as the fiber other than the fiber A and the fiber B is preferable because each fiber is likely to develop crimp when used in a woven or knitted fabric.
• Such a combined-filament fiber preferably has a total fineness within a range of 10 to 300 dtex (more preferably 20 to 240 dtex, particularly preferably 30 to 150 dtex).
• the number ratio of the fiber B to the fiber A represented by the following Equation 3 is preferably 2 or more.
• the number ratio is 2 or more, the number of the fibers B exposed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric is increased, and a better spun-like texture is obtained. In addition, a fine air layer and an uneven structure are likely to be formed due to the crimp difference with the fiber A effective for water repellency, so that higher droplet removability can be obtained.
• the number ratio is more preferably 5 or more. Meanwhile, by setting the number ratio to 50 or less, it is possible to suppress significant deterioration in quality such as fibrillation or pilling caused by the relatively thin fiber B exposed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.
• the combined-filament fiber is particularly preferably a non-twisted yarn, which is capable of obtaining a most-enlarged crimp difference between the fiber A and the fiber B, but may be twisted at a twist coefficient represented by the following Equation 4 of 35000 or less, as necessary.
• the woven or knitted fabric in the present invention is a woven or knitted fabric containing the combined-filament fiber, and has crimps of the fiber B on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.
• the "crimp" means a three-dimensional twisted structure (including a coil shape) or a loop structure obtained by false-twisting processing, air processing (interlacing processing or Taslan processing), a fiber having a bimetal structure in which two polymers are bonded, or the like, and is not particularly limited.
• false-twisting a fiber having a bimetal structure in which two polymers are bonded together is preferable because crimps become finer.
• the surface occupancy of the combined-filament fiber per unit area is preferably 20% or more (particularly preferably 100%).
• the "surface occupancy" refers to a proportion occupied by the combined-filament fiber on the woven or knitted fabric surface.
• the surface occupancy is equal to or more than such a value, for example, even in the case of a woven fabric, it is possible to form the uneven structure of the combined-filament fiber effective for higher droplet removability and a better spun-like texture on the woven fabric surface, and higher motion comfort can also be obtained.
• a fiber to be combined with the combined-filament fibers in the formation of a woven or knitted fabric a fiber subjected to false twisting processing or air processing (interlacing processing or Taslan processing), a fiber having a bimetal structure in which two polymers are bonded together, or a fiber obtained by combining the aforementioned fibers is preferable because the stretchability, crimp development, and spun-like touch of the combined-filament fiber are hardly inhibited.
• the structure of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is not particularly limited, but a woven fabric, which is capable of particularly obtaining superior droplet removability, is preferable.
• the weave structure is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, modified plain weave, modified twill weave, modified satin weave, variable weave, Jacquard weave, katagasane-ori, double weave structure, multiple weave structure, warp pile weave, weft pile weave, and gauze weave.
• the knitting structure is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include circular knitting, weft knitting, warp knitting (including tricot knitting and raschel knitting), pile knitting, plain knitting, jersey knitting, rib knitting, smooth knitting (interlock knitting), rib knitting, pearl knitting, denbigh structure, cord structure, atlas structure, chain structure, and inlay structure.
• Both the woven fabric and the knitted fabric may have any structure, but the combined-filament fiber is more easily shrunk and the fine air layer and the uneven structure on the surface are more easily formed when the structure is one in which unevenness is easily generated such as a twill weave is adopted rather than a plain weave. In the case of being mixed with other original yarns, a structure in which a large number of the combined-filament fibers appear on the surface is desirable.
• Such a woven fabric preferably has a total cover factor (CF) of warps and wefts expressed by the following Equation 5 of 1000 to 3500.
• CF total cover factor
• the total cover factor (CF) is more preferably 1500 or more.
• the total cover factor (CF) is 3500 or less, the fine air layer and the uneven structure of the combined-filament fiber described above are not lost by an excessive binding force due to the weave points, and superior droplet removability, motion comfort, and spun-like texture can be obtained.
• the total cover factor (CF) is more preferably 2800 or less.
• the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has a water repellent agent on the surface.
• the term "have a water repellent agent on the surface” as used herein means that the woven or knitted fabric is just required to substantially have water repellent performance, and examples of the water droplet sliding-down angle on the fabric surface of the woven or knitted fabric may be smaller than 90 degrees.
• a yarn having water repellent performance may be used, and a water repellent agent may be applied to the woven or knitted fabric at the time of dyeing processing.
• the type of the water repellent agent for imparting droplet removability to the woven or knitted fabric is not particularly limited, but it is environmentally preferable to use a water repellent agent having a concentration of perfluorooctanoic acid (PFOA) of 5 ng/g or less in measurement using a high performance liquid chromatograph-mass spectrometer (LC-MS) (particularly preferably less than 1 ng/g).
• PFOA perfluorooctanoic acid
• LC-MS liquid chromatograph-mass spectrometer
• the water repellent agent include a C6 water repellent agent (also referred to as "C6-based water repellent agent", but herein referred to as "C6 water repellent agent”) and a fluorine-free water repellent agent.
• the fluorine-free water repellent agent is particularly preferable from the viewpoint of recyclability.
• C6 water repellent agent refers to a fluorine-based water repellent agent including a fluorine-based compound having a perfluoroalkyl group, where the perfluoroalkyl group has 6 or less carbon atoms.
• perfluoroalkyl group refers to a group in which two or more hydrogen atoms of an alkyl group are substituted with fluorine atoms.
• the non-fluorine-based water repellent agent is a water repellent agent that does not contain a fluorine compound mainly composed of a perfluoroalkyl group.
• Examples of the non-fluorine-based water repellent agent include a silicone-based water repellent agent and a paraffin-based water repellent agent, and these water repellent agents may be mainly composed of a silicone-based compound or may be mainly composed of a paraffin-based compound.
• the attachment concentration of the water repellent agent is preferably 0.1 to 1 mass% at which the spun-like texture due to the combined-filament fiber is not impaired and superior droplet removability can be obtained (more preferably 0.2 to 0.8 mass%, particularly preferably 0.3 to 0.5 mass%).
• the water droplet sliding-down angle of the fabric surface of the woven or knitted fabric is preferably 1 to 45 degrees.
• the water droplet sliding-down angle is 45 degrees or less, for example, in the case of use for clothing, water droplets are less likely to remain on the woven or knitted fabric during wearing, and superior droplet removability without feeling discomfort such as wet feel can be obtained.
• the water droplet sliding-down angle is 15 degrees or less, extremely high droplet removability with which almost no water droplet remains on the woven or knitted fabric when worn can be obtained.
• the "water droplet sliding-down angle" is defined in the following manner.
• a water droplet is gently dropped onto the surface of a woven or knitted fabric attached in a planar shape to a horizontal plate, the plate is gently inclined at a constant speed, and the dropped water droplet starts to slide down at an angle, which is defined as a "water droplet sliding-down angle".
• a 20 ⁇ L water droplet is dropped onto the woven or knitted fabric surface using a fully automatic contact angle meter (DM-SA, manufactured by Kyowa Interface Science Co., Ltd.), and the woven or knitted fabric is gently inclined from 0° at a constant speed by 1° at a time. The angle at which the water droplet completely slides down from the woven or knitted fabric surface is measured to the water droplet sliding-down angle.
• DM-SA fully automatic contact angle meter
• the water droplet sliding-down angle on the fabric surface after repeated washing is preferably 1 to 60 degrees, and more preferably 1 to 45 degrees.
• the repeated washing as used herein refers to repeating 20 times washing in accordance with JIS L 1930:2014-C4M method and drying in accordance with Method A (hang drying).
• the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention When the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is made into clothing, it is preferable that the woven or knitted fabric follows various motions during wearing to hardly allow a pressure called a clothing pressure from the woven or knitted fabric, such as a pressed feel or a tight feel, to be felt, and exhibit stretchability superior in motion comfort.
• the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention contains the combined-filament fiber described above, and the combined-filament fiber includes the fiber A and the fiber B both crimped by a bimetal structure, so that the woven or knitted fabric also has stretchability superior in motion comfort.
• the elongation rate of the woven or knitted fabric in the warp direction or the weft direction is preferably 10 to 100%.
• the stretchability refers to an elongation rate of the woven or knitted fabric in a warp direction or a weft direction measured in accordance with Method B or Method D of JIS L 1096:2010 8.16.1.
• the elongation rate is 10% or more, the clothing pressure from the woven or knitted fabric is not felt strongly, and the motion during wearing is less hindered.
• the elongation rate is 20% or more, almost no clothing pressure from the woven or knitted fabric is felt, and further superior motion comfort can be obtained.
• the elongation rate is 100% or less, it is possible to prevent a significant decrease in elongation recoverability.
• the elongation rate is 40% or less, a phenomenon such as knee drop, which is observed in clothing applications such as pants, can be made less prone to occur.
• a combined-filament fiber including a fiber A having a multilobal shape cross section with protrusions on an outer peripheral portion and a fiber B having a cross section in a flat shape is prepared by the following method.
• the method for manufacturing the combined-filament fiber is not particularly limited.
• an islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber including the fiber A and the fiber B as island components may be mixed by eluting a sea component by alkali weight reduction treatment or the like during dyeing processing, or the fiber A and the fiber B may be aligned and air-mixed by air processing (interlacing processing or Taslan processing).
• the method is a method using an islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber that can be mixed without being biased in the arrangement of the fiber A and the fiber B in a yarn bundle, and this method is also good from the viewpoint of productivity since yarn processing such as air processing is not required.
• the method for weaving or knitting the woven or knitted fabric containing the combined-filament fiber of the present invention is not particularly limited, and the woven or knitted fabric can be woven or knitted by an ordinary method.
• the woven or knitted fabric is a woven fabric, a water jet loom, an air jet loom, a rapier loom, or a jacquard loom may be used, for example.
• a circular knitting machine or a warp knitting machine may be used, for example.
• the woven or knitted fabric obtained by such a weaving or knitting method can then be scoured and dyed by ordinary methods, and the latent crimps of the fiber A and the fiber B differing in fineness are made apparent by the heat treatment of these processes, and a fine air layer and an uneven structure of the fiber B due to the crimp difference are formed on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric.
• the sea component When the sea component is eluted from the islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber to form the combined-filament fiber, preferred is a method in which the islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber is woven or knitted as it is, the sea component is eluted by alkali weight reduction treatment or the like after scouring treatment, and thereby a woven or knitted fabric containing a combined-filament fiber is formed.
• the woven or knitted fabric is to be subjected to water repellent finishing.
• flame-retardant finishing, hygroscopic finishing, antistatic finishing, antibacterial finishing, flexible finishing, and other known post-processing can be used in combination, and it is possible to improve the washing durability of the functional processing agents such as a flame retardant, a hygroscopic agent, an antistatic agent, an antibacterial agent, and a fabric softener.
• the water repellent processing step is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include a padding method, a spraying method, and a coating method, but the padding method is preferable for allowing the processing agent to penetrate into the woven or knitted fabric.
• Fibers to be measured are collected from a woven or knitted fabric such that a total length is about 1 m, the mass per unit length is measured under an environment of a temperature of 20°C and a humidity of 65%RH, and the mass corresponding to 10,000 m is calculated from the value. This operation was repeated 10 times, and the simple average of the 10 values was obtained. The simple average was rounded off to one decimal place, and the obtained value was taken as the fineness of the fibers.
• Fineness ratio fineness [dtex] of fiber A/fineness [dtex] of fiber B.
• One combined-filament fiber was sampled from the obtained woven or knitted fabric and was cut perpendicularly to the fiber axis direction (longitudinal direction).
• One combined-filament fiber was sampled from the obtained woven or knitted fabric and was cut perpendicularly to the fiber axis direction (longitudinal direction).
• the fiber A in this cross section was photographed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM, manufactured by Hitachi High-Technologies Corporation) (magnification: 3000 times), and the number of protrusions was counted on the taken photograph.
• One combined-filament fiber was sampled from the obtained woven or knitted fabric and was cut perpendicularly to the fiber axis direction (longitudinal direction). All fiber of the fiber B in this cross section were photographed with a scanning electron microscope (SEM, manufactured by Hitachi High-Technologies Corporation) (magnification: 3000 times), and the maximum length of the cross section of each fiber B in the photograph taken using image processing software (ImageJ) was defined as the length in the major axis direction, the length in the direction perpendicular to the major axis direction was defined as the length in the minor axis direction, and simple average values of the lengths were calculated. Note that these values are calculated to two decimal places and rounded off to one decimal place.
• a 20 ⁇ L water droplet was dropped onto the surface of the woven or knitted fabric attached in a planar shape to a horizontal plate, and the plate was gently inclined from 0° at a constant speed (about 1 degree/second) by 1° at a time.
• the angle at which the water droplet completely slid down from the woven or knitted fabric surface was measured. The smaller the value of the water droplet sliding-down angle was, the better the droplet removability was determined to be. When the water droplet does not slide down even at 90 degrees, it is determined as "no slide down".
• the water droplet sliding-down angle was measured by the above-described method using, as a sample, a woven or knitted fabric obtained by repeating 20 times washing in accordance with JIS L 1930:2014-C4M method and drying in accordance with Method A (hang drying).
• the elongation rate was measured using JIS L 1096:2010 8.16.1 Method B.
• the elongation rate was measured using JIS L 1096:2010 8.16.1 Method D.
• the spun-like texture of the obtained woven or knitted fabrics was judged as follows, and in the evaluation by 10 randomly selected persons, the judgment with the most frequent evaluation result was used as a result. In a case where there were a plurality of most frequent judgement results, the intermediate evaluation thereof was adopted.
• An outer jacket for mountain climbing was made using each of the obtained woven or knitted fabrics.
• the outer jacket was worn in a laboratory (200 ml/10 min), which was assumed to be in a rainfall environment, and the following judgement was performed after rainfall. In the evaluation by 10 randomly selected persons, the judgement with the most frequent evaluation result was used as a result. In a case where there were a plurality of most frequent judgement results, the intermediate evaluation thereof was adopted.
• the size of the outer jacket to be worn was set to a size (S, M, L) suitable for each body type on the basis of JIS L 4004:2001 9.
• Polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid in an amount of 8 mol% based on all dicarboxylic acid components and polyethylene glycol in an amount of 9 wt% based on the entire mass (SSIA-PEG-copolymerized PET, melt viscosity: 100 Pa ⁇ s [measurement conditions: a temperature of 290°C and a shear rate of 1216 s -1 ], melting point: 233°C) was prepared as Polymer A, polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with 7 mol% of isophthalic acid (IPA-copolymerized PET, melt viscosity: 140 Pa ⁇ s [measurement conditions: a temperature of 290°C and a shear rate of 1216 s -1 ], melting point: 232°C) was prepared as Polymer B, and polyethylene terephthalate (PET, melt viscosity: 130 Pa ⁇ s [measurement conditions: a temperature of 290°C
• the Polymer B and the Polymer C which were hardly eluted components, were bonded to each other in a side-by-side manner, and an island component b1 (one) having an eight-lobe sectional structure radially having eight uniformly arranged protrusions and island components b2 (eight) each having a flat sectional structure were configured to be bonded to each other by a sea component a composed of the Polymer A composed of an easy-to-elute component.
• FIG. 2 is a schematic sectional view of the composite spinneret, in which the polymers A to C measured with the measuring plate 1 are controlled by a distribution plate 2 for their composite section in a section of a single fiber and a sectional shape thereof, and a composite polymer stream formed by the distribution plate 2 is compressed and ejected by an ejection plate 3.
• an ejection method an islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber having a circular sectional shape as illustrated in Fig. 1 was obtained.
• the ejected composite polymer stream was cooled and solidified, then provided with an oil agent, wound at a spinning rate of 1500 m/min, and drawn between rollers heated to 90°C and 130°C, respectively, affording an islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber of 84 dtex-24 filaments. It is noted that the island portion b1 after the elution of the sea component a corresponds to the fiber A, and the island portions b2 after the elution correspond to the fiber B.
• a 2/1 twill fabric was obtained.
• the obtained woven fabric was continuously scoured, heated to 90°C with a 1% by mass aqueous sodium hydroxide solution using a jet dyeing machine to remove the sea component (weight reduction rate: 10%), relaxed at 130°C for 30 minutes using a jet dyeing machine, subjected to an intermediate setting at 180°C for 1 minute at a width extension ratio of 5%, and then subjected to normal dyeing processing.
• the obtained workpiece was subjected to water repellent processing in which the workpiece was immersed in a treatment liquid prepared by mixing 4% by mass of "NEOSEED” (registered trademark) NR-158 (manufactured by Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd., fluorine-free (paraffinic) water repellent agent, solid content: 30%), 0.2% by mass of "BECKAMINE” (registered trademark) M-3 (manufactured by DIC Corporation), 0.15% by mass of Catalyst ACX (manufactured by DIC Corporation), 1% by mass of isopropyl alcohol, and 94.65% by mass of water, squeezed with a mangle at a squeezing rate of 60%, dried with a pin tenter at 130°C for 2 minutes, and cured with a pin tenter at 170°C for 1 minute.
• a treatment liquid prepared by mixing 4% by mass of "NEOSEED” (registered trademark) NR-158 (manufactured by Nicca Chemical Co.
• a 2/1 twill fabric composed of combined-filament fibers in which the fiber A4 and the fibers B5 were separated, and having a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained.
• the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
• a 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 104 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 87 yarns/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2590 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that an islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber of 227 dtex-24 filaments was obtained by changing the method of ejecting an islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber such that the fineness ratio of the fiber A to the fiber B of the combined-filament fiber to be obtained in Example 1 was 1.5.
• the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
• a 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 102 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 85 yarns/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2596 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that an islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber of 238 dtex-24 filaments was obtained by changing the number of each of the island components b1 and b2 to five sections in the islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber having an elliptical sectional shape in Example 1.
• the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
• a 4/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2602 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that round sectional multifilaments (76dtex-24 filaments) made of polyethylene terephthalate were arranged as warps and the islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber of Example 1 was arranged as wefts when the woven fabric described in Example 1 was manufactured.
• the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
• a combined-filament fiber (222 dtex-72 filaments) was obtained by performing Taslan processing using the islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber obtained in Example 1 as a sheath yarn, and multifilaments (138 dtex-48 filaments) having a round sectional shape formed of stretchable fibers in which polyethylene terephthalate and polytrimethylene terephthalate were combined into a side-by-side bimetal structure as a core yarn.
• a 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 103 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 85 yarns/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2607 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the yarn was changed to the combined-filament fiber.
• the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
• An islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber was manufactured in the same manner as in Example 1, and a knitted fabric having a smooth structure was obtained using the fiber using a 28G circular knitting machine.
• the obtained knitted fabric was continuously scoured, heated to 90°C with a 1% by mass aqueous sodium hydroxide solution using a jet dyeing machine to remove the sea component (weight reduction rate: 10%), relaxed at 130°C for 30 minutes using a jet dyeing machine, subjected to an intermediate setting at 180°C for 1 minute at a width extension ratio of 5%, and then subjected to normal dyeing processing.
• a 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 102 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 85 yarns/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2596 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that an islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber of 238 dtex-24 filaments was obtained by changing the ejection method such that the island components b1 and b2 of the islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber to be obtained in Example 1 were the same in fineness.
• the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
• a 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a 2/1 twill fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 and then the water repellent treatment after the dyeing treatment was not performed.
• the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
• a 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber of Example 1 having an elliptical sectional shape was changed to a circular section in which the island component b1 had no protrusions.
• the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
• a 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 171 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2590 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that in the islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber of Example 1 having an elliptical sectional shape, the island component b1 was changed to have a trilobal section having three protrusions uniformly arranged.
• the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
• a 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber of Example 1 having an elliptical sectional shape was changed to a regular circular section in which the flatness of the island component b2 was reduced such that the flatness of the fiber B after elution was 1.0.
• the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
• a 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber of Example 1 having an elliptical sectional shape was changed to a flat section in which the flatness of the island component b2 was increased such that the flatness of the fiber B after elution was 7.0.
• the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
• a 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 144 yarns/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2607 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the ejection method was changed such that the island component b1 of the islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber obtained in Example 1 was composed only of the Polymer B.
• the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
• a 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 172 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2598 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the ejection method was changed such that the island component b2 of the islands-in-the-sea conjugated fiber obtained in Example 1 was composed only of the Polymer B.
• the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
• a 2/1 twill fabric having a warp density of 171 yarns/2.54 cm, a weft density of 143 yarns/2.54 cm, and a cover factor (CF) of 2590 was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1 except that modifications were made such that the woven fabric described in Example 1 was continuously scoured, then heat-set at 200°C for 1 minute at a width extension ratio of 2%, and heated to 90°C using a 1% by mass aqueous sodium hydroxide solution using a jet dyeing machine to remove the sea component (weight reduction rate: 10%), and no relaxation processing was performed.
• the evaluation results of the obtained woven fabric are shown in Table 2.
• the woven fabrics of Examples 1 to 6 and 8 or the knitted fabric of Example 7 are superior in spun-like texture, water repellency, and motion comfort.
• the woven fabrics of Examples 1 and 6 and the knitted fabric of Example 7 were extremely practical woven or knitted fabrics in which an uneven structure having a fine air layer formed of crimps of the fiber B is extremely effectively formed on the surface and which are superior in all of spun-like texture, droplet removability, and motion comfort owing to the fact that water-repellent processed woven or knitted fabrics were formed using only a combined-filament fiber containing a fiber A and a fiber B having bimetal structures differing in fineness and the number of fibers while controlling the number of protrusions of the fiber A and the flatness of the fiber B in a sectional shape within preferable ranges.
• the woven fabric of Example 8 was further superior in all of the spun-like texture, the droplet removability, and the motion comfort due to the addition of the effect of fine crimps by false twisting.
• the woven fabric of Comparative Example 1 was a woven fabric inferior in texture and droplet removability because there was no difference in fineness between the fiber A and the fiber B and an uneven structure due to a crimp difference was not formed.
• the woven fabric of Comparative Example 2 was a woven fabric having no droplet removability because it absorbed water droplets owing to the fact that it had not been subjected to a water repellent treatment.
• the woven fabrics of Comparative Examples 3 and 4 were woven fabrics poor in texture and droplet removability, in which the number of protrusions of the fiber A was as small as 0 or 3.
• the woven fabric of Comparative Example 5 was a woven fabric poor in texture and droplet removability because the fiber B was in a regular circle shape with a flatness of 1.0.
• the woven fabric of Comparative Example 6 was a woven fabric poor in texture owing to the fact that the flatness of the fiber B was as large as 7.0 and the fiber B was excessively thin.
• the woven fabric of Comparative Example 9 was a woven fabric that had no uneven structure due to crimp difference or had no crimps of the fiber B on the woven fabric surface and was poor in all of texture, droplet removability, and motion comfort owing to the fact that latent crimps of the fiber A and the fiber B of the combined-filament fiber could not be developed by heat setting at a high temperature after continuous scouring.
• the water-repellent woven or knitted fabric of the present invention has high water repellency due to containing a combined-filament fiber having the characteristics described above, and also is superior in stretchability comfortable to wear and spun-like texture, so that the use of the water-repellent woven or knitted fabric can provide clothing or textile products superior in functionality and texture.
• Such clothing and textile products can be extremely suitably applied to a wide variety of fields including general casual clothing such as down clothing, jackets, skirts, pants, T-shirts, and sweaters, various sports clothing such as clothing for mountain climbing, ski, golf, and running, outer clothing and dustproof clothing for works such as civil works, uniform clothing such as medical gowns, interior products such as sofas and curtains, and vehicle interior products such as car seats.

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• 2023
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