EP4274859A1 - Composition comprenant des polymères d'origine naturelle et qui présentent des propriétés épaississantes de milieux polaires - Google Patents

Composition comprenant des polymères d'origine naturelle et qui présentent des propriétés épaississantes de milieux polaires

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Publication number
EP4274859A1
EP4274859A1 EP21843743.2A EP21843743A EP4274859A1 EP 4274859 A1 EP4274859 A1 EP 4274859A1 EP 21843743 A EP21843743 A EP 21843743A EP 4274859 A1 EP4274859 A1 EP 4274859A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition
formula
oil
water
mass
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21843743.2A
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German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Miruna BODOC
Stéphane MONTEILLET
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
Original Assignee
Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA
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Publication of EP4274859A1 publication Critical patent/EP4274859A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08G—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
    • C08G69/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming a carboxylic amide link in the main chain of the macromolecule
    • C08G69/02—Polyamides derived from amino-carboxylic acids or from polyamines and polycarboxylic acids
    • C08G69/08—Polyamides derived from amino-carboxylic acids or from polyamines and polycarboxylic acids derived from amino-carboxylic acids
    • C08G69/10—Alpha-amino-carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88—Polyamides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08G—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
    • C08G69/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming a carboxylic amide link in the main chain of the macromolecule
    • C08G69/02—Polyamides derived from amino-carboxylic acids or from polyamines and polycarboxylic acids
    • C08G69/08—Polyamides derived from amino-carboxylic acids or from polyamines and polycarboxylic acids derived from amino-carboxylic acids
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08G—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
    • C08G69/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming a carboxylic amide link in the main chain of the macromolecule
    • C08G69/40—Polyamides containing oxygen in the form of ether groups
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08G—MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
    • C08G69/00—Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming a carboxylic amide link in the main chain of the macromolecule
    • C08G69/48—Polymers modified by chemical after-treatment
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08K—Use of inorganic or non-macromolecular organic substances as compounding ingredients
    • C08K5/00—Use of organic ingredients
    • C08K5/04—Oxygen-containing compounds
    • C08K5/10—Esters; Ether-esters
    • C08K5/101—Esters; Ether-esters of monocarboxylic acids
    • C08K5/103—Esters; Ether-esters of monocarboxylic acids with polyalcohols
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08K—Use of inorganic or non-macromolecular organic substances as compounding ingredients
    • C08K5/00—Use of organic ingredients
    • C08K5/04—Oxygen-containing compounds
    • C08K5/15—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen in the ring
    • C08K5/151—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen in the ring having one oxygen atom in the ring
    • C08K5/1515—Three-membered rings
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08L—COMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
    • C08L77/00—Compositions of polyamides obtained by reactions forming a carboxylic amide link in the main chain; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • C08L77/04—Polyamides derived from alpha-amino carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/95—Involves in-situ formation or cross-linking of polymers
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08—ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08J—WORKING-UP; GENERAL PROCESSES OF COMPOUNDING; AFTER-TREATMENT NOT COVERED BY SUBCLASSES C08B, C08C, C08F, C08G or C08H
    • C08J2377/00—Characterised by the use of polyamides obtained by reactions forming a carboxylic amide link in the main chain; Derivatives of such polymers

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition in the form of a self-inverting water-in-oil type emulsion, the process for preparing such a composition and the use of this composition for preparing cosmetic compositions with topical use.
  • Cosmetic compositions contain polar phases such as, for example, phases consisting of water, and in most cases require the use of rheology modifying agents, such as, for example, polymers, to increase the viscosity of these polar phases, as well as only to impart a well-defined rheological behavior.
  • polar phases such as, for example, phases consisting of water
  • rheology modifying agents such as, for example, polymers
  • polysaccharides based on oses or polysaccharides based on derivatives of oses or else synthetic polymers of the polyelectrolyte type, anionic or cationic or amphiphilic, linear or branched, cross-linked or non-cross-linked.
  • synthetic polymers Predominantly present on the market for ingredients intended for cosmetic formulations, synthetic polymers have the property of unfolding, in the polar phase, under the effect of electrostatic repulsions due to the presence of charges (negative and/or positive) on the skeleton. polymeric, linear or branched, non-crosslinked or crosslinked.
  • rheology modifiers provide both an increase in the viscosity of the polar phase, as well as a certain consistency and/or a stabilizing effect conferred on the cosmetic, dermo-cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical formulation to be thickened.
  • the polymers used for the cosmetics or dermocosmetics industries can play a functional role as film-forming agents, rheology modifiers, agents allowing the stabilization of fatty phases in water-in-oil emulsions and oil-in-water, the stabilization of solid particles (pigments or fillers), or even as agents conferring particular sensory properties (softness to the touch, ease of gripping and application, freshness effect, etc.), or as agents that also have a direct impact on the appearance of the formula (transparent, translucent or opaque).
  • the rheology modifying polymers of polar phases, and more particularly of aqueous phases are mainly polyelectrolytes which result from the radical polymerization of monomers of the (meth)acrylic type, that is to say acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, esters derived from acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, or alternatively acrylamide or methacrylamide derivatives.
  • Glutamic acid As an example of a polymer of natural origin, we can cite polyglutamic acid (PGA), which is today the subject of numerous research works. It is a predominantly linear polymer and consists of monomeric glutamic acid (GA) units. Glutamic acid is an amino acid characterized by an amine function in the ⁇ position and by two carboxylic acid functions (or carboxylates depending on the pH) in the ⁇ and ⁇ positions (see chemical formula 1).
  • the cross-linking of polymer chains aims to connect several polymer chains to each other which, when added to a polar phase, and more particularly to water, appear as a three-dimensional network insoluble in water. water, but swellable with water and then leading to the production of an aqueous gel.
  • the first of which consists in preparing the polymer, and the second consists in reacting the polymer with a crosslinking agent to obtain a crosslinked polymer.
  • the polyepoxide derivatives are the most described, because they make it possible to implement crosslinking processes under conditions that respect the environment (moderate temperatures, reactions in aqueous and in the absence of harmful solvents).
  • a solution of the present invention is a composition (CA) in the form of a self-inverting water-in-oil type emulsion comprising, for 100% of its mass, a mass content greater than or equal to 20% of a polymer (P) consisting of monomeric units derived from glutamic acid (GA), partially or totally salified, and units derived from at least one crosslinking agent (RA) carrying at least two glycidyl functions.
  • a composition (CA) in the form of a self-inverting water-in-oil type emulsion comprising, for 100% of its mass, a mass content greater than or equal to 20% of a polymer (P) consisting of monomeric units derived from glutamic acid (GA), partially or totally salified, and units derived from at least one crosslinking agent (RA) carrying at least two glycidyl functions.
  • emulsion of the water-in-oil type is meant within the meaning of the present invention a heterogeneous mixture of two immiscible liquids, one being dispersed in the form of small droplets in the other, said mixture being thermodynamically unstable and stabilized by the presence of a surfactant system comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant.
  • emulsion of the water-in-oil self-inverting type is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, an emulsion of the water-in-oil type as defined above, in which the emulsifying surfactants present confer on the emulsion a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) such that once said emulsion has been added to a polar phase, such as for example water, the direction of the emulsion will change to pass from the water-in-oil form to the oil- in water, then making it possible to bring the polymer (P) into contact with the polar phase to be thickened.
  • HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
  • the monomeric units derived from glutamic acid (GA), partially or totally salified, are linked together:
  • the PGA can be prepared chemically according to peptide synthesis methods known to those skilled in the art, in particular passing through stages of selective protection(s), activation, coupling and deprotection(s).
  • the coupling generally consists of a nucleophilic attack of the amine function of a monomeric glutamic acid unit on an activated carboxylic acid function of another monomeric glutamic acid unit.
  • PGGA can also be obtained by processes comprising at least one microbial fermentation step involving the use of at least one bacterial strain.
  • the term “salified” indicates that the “pendant” carboxylic acid function present on each monomeric unit of glutamic acid (GA) of the polymer (in the gamma position in the case of PAGA or alpha in the case of PGGA) is in an anionic or carboxylate form.
  • the counter-ion of this carboxylate function is a cation derived, for example, from salts of alkali metals such as sodium, potassium or from salts of nitrogenous bases such as amines, lysine or monoethanolamine (HO-CH2-CH2 -NH2).
  • crosslinking agent RA
  • crosslinking agent (RA) carrying at least two glycidyl functions is meant within the meaning of the present invention a crosslinking agent (RA) as defined above whose molecular structure comprises at least two glycidyl units or functions of formula ( I'):
  • the cross-linking of the polymer chains of the polymer (P) takes place according to a reaction between the terminal free amine function (-NH2) and/or one or more "pendent" or terminal carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO-) present in the structure of said polymer (P), and at least one epoxy group present in the structure of the crosslinking agent (AR) bearing at least two glycidyl functions.
  • composition (CA) according to the invention may have one or more of the following characteristics:
  • R4 representing a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, functionalized or unfunctionalized hydrocarbon radical and containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms;
  • R4 representing a hydrocarbon radical chosen from the elements of the group consisting of the radical heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, undecenyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, hydroxyoctadecyl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, eicosyl and dodecosyl.
  • the monomeric units derived from the compound of formula (X′) represent from 1% to 50% by mass.
  • crosslinking agent (RA) may be chosen from the members of the group consisting of:
  • R representing the hydrogen atom or the glycidyl radical [ ], and n which represents an integer greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to 10;
  • the compound of formula (II) is more particularly the compound of formula (IIa) or Glycérol Diglycidyl ether
  • the compound of formula (II) is more particularly the compound of formula (IIb) or Glycerol Triglycidyl ether
  • the compound of formula (II) is more particularly the compound of formula (IIc) or DiGlycérol Di Glycidyl ether
  • the compound of formula (II) is more particularly the compound of formula (IId) or Di Glycerol Tetra Glycidyl ether
  • R1 representing the hydrogen atom or the glycidyl radical [ ]
  • the compound of formula (IX) is more particularly the compound of formula (IXa) or trimethylol ethane DiGlycidyl ether
  • the compound of formula (IX) is more particularly the compound of formula (IXb) or trimethylol ethane TriGlycidyl ether
  • R1 representing the hydrogen atom or the glycidyl radical [ ]
  • the compound of formula (X) is more particularly the compound of formula (Xa) or trimethylol propane DiGlycidyl ether
  • the compound of formula (X) is more particularly the compound of formula (Xb) or trimethylol propane TriGlycidyl ether
  • R1 and R2 independent, which represent the hydrogen atom or the glycidyl radical
  • the compound of formula (XI) is more particularly the compound of formula (XIa) or Pentaerythritol Di Glycidyl ether
  • the compound of formula (XI) is more particularly the compound of formula (XIb) or Pentaerythritol Tri Glycidyl ether
  • the compound of formula (XI) is more particularly the compound of formula (XIc) or Pentaerythritol Tetra Glycidyl ether
  • R3 representing the hydrogen atom or the glycidyl radical [ ]
  • x, y, z, o, p and q independent of each other, represent an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 10.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for preparing a composition (CA) as defined above, comprising:
  • the method according to the invention may have one or more of the following characteristics:
  • R4 representing a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, functionalized or unfunctionalized hydrocarbon radical and comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • R4 represents a hydrocarbon radical chosen from the elements of the group consisting of the radical heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, undecenyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, hydroxyoctadecyl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, eicosyl and dodecosyl.
  • the choice of a concentrated inverse emulsion process makes it possible to solubilize the starting PGGA, its possible co-constituents, as well as the crosslinking agent(s) in the aqueous phase of the emulsion.
  • the realization of the emulsion makes it possible to create droplets isolated from each other making possible the crosslinking of the PGA without caking of the reaction medium due to the increase in viscosity of the aqueous phase during the crosslinking step.
  • the concentration step by distillation of a light fatty phase leads to obtaining a product in liquid form with an active ingredient content of more than 20%.
  • the present invention also relates to:
  • the mass content of the polymer (P) is greater than or equal to 20% and less than or equal to 60%; and more particularly greater than or equal to 20% and less than or equal to 40%.
  • PGGA can exist in different conformational forms in solution in water. These depend on the inter and intra molecular hydrogen bonds and therefore on the pH, the polymer concentration, the ionic strength of the solution, as well as the temperature.
  • the PGGA chains can thus adopt the form of an ⁇ -helix, a ⁇ -sheet, aggregates or else be in a disordered and random state.
  • the polymer (P) in helical conformation when it is present in a solution at a mass content of less than or equal to 0.1% and of which said solution shows a pH value less than or equal to 7.
  • the polymer (P) in sheet conformation when it is present in a solution at a mass content of less than or equal to 0.1% and of which said solution shows a pH value above 7.
  • the crosslinking agent (AR) represents from 1% to 20% molar, and even more particularly from 1% to 18% molar.
  • the composition (CA) has a viscosity of between 1,000 mPa.s and 10,000 mPa.s (measured with a Brookfield brand viscometer, RVT type, speed 5 rpm), more particularly between 1 000 mPa.s and 5000 mPa.s.
  • the crosslinking agent (RA) is ethylene glycol diglycidyl ether of formula (I).
  • the partially or totally salified polyglutamic acid is in the form of a potassium, sodium or ammonium salt, and more particularly in the form of a sodium salt.
  • the aqueous solution comprises, for 100% of its mass, between 5% and 60% by mass, more particularly between 10% and 50% by mass, of partially or totally salified polyglutamic acid (PGA).
  • PGA polyglutamic acid
  • the crosslinking agent (RA) is chosen from at least one of the members of the group consisting of the compounds of formulas (I), (II) , (III), (IV), (V), (VI), (VII), (VIII), (IX), (X), (XI), (XII) and (XIII) as previously defined.
  • step c) of the process which is the subject of the present invention the term "volatile oil” denotes a fatty substance which is liquid at a temperature of 25° C. at atmospheric pressure, and whose flash point is between 40 and 100°C.
  • volatile oil is meant within the meaning of the present invention an element of the group consisting of branched alkanes, comprising from seven to forty carbon atoms, such as isododecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane , isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, isononadecane or isoeicosane), or mixtures of some of them such as those mentioned below and identified by their INCI name: C7-8 isoparaffin, C8-9 isoparaffin, C9-11 isoparaffin, C9-12 isoparaffin, C9-13 isoparaffin, C9-14 isoparaffin, C9-16 isoparaffin, C10-11 isoparaffin, C10-12 isoparaffin, C10-13 isoparaffin, C11-12 isoparaffin, C11-13 isoparaffin, C11-14 isoparaffin.
  • volatile oil within the meaning of the present invention at least one element of the group consisting of isododecane, isohexadecane, C7-8 isoparaffin, C8-9 isoparaffin, C9 -11 isoparaffin, C11-13 isoparaffin, C11-14 isoparaffin.
  • the volatile oil is chosen from an element of the group consisting of C8-9 isoparaffin, C9-11 isoparaffin, C11-13 isoparaffin, C11-14 isoparaffin.
  • the “volatile oil” is chosen from an element of the group consisting of the isoparaffins marketed under the brand names ISOPARTM G, ISOPARTM L or ISOPARTM H or ISOPARTM J.
  • oil (H) denotes a liquid fatty substance at a temperature of 25° C. at atmospheric pressure, in particular:
  • said mixture (M1) is characterized in that it comprises for 100% of its mass:
  • linear alkanes present in the mixture (M1) as defined above, and comprising from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, is meant more particularly within the meaning of the present invention the elements chosen from the group consisting of n- pentadecane, n-hexadecane, n-heptadecane, n-octadecane and n-nonadecane.
  • branched alkanes present in the mixture (M1) as defined above, and comprising from 15 to 19 carbon atoms, is meant more particularly within the meaning of the present invention the elements chosen from the group consisting of the iso -pentadecane, iso-hexadecane, iso-heptadecane, iso-octadecane and iso-nonadecane.
  • the mixture (M1) is more particularly the mixture marketed under the brand name EmogreenTM L15 or else the mixture marketed under the brand name EmogreenTM L19.
  • Z1 and Z2 which are identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from five to eighteen carbon atoms, for example dioctyl ether, didecyl ether, didodecyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether, dihexadecyl ether, (1,3 -dimethyl butyl) tetradecyl ether, (1,3-dimethyl butyl) hexadecyl ether, bis(1,3-dimethyl butyl) ether or dihexyl ether.
  • dioctyl ether didecyl ether
  • didodecyl ether didodecyl ether
  • dodecyl octyl ether dihexadecyl ether
  • (1,3 -dimethyl butyl) tetradecyl ether (1,3-dimethyl butyl) hexa
  • R'2 represents, independently of R'1, a hydrocarbon chain saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched containing from one to twenty-four carbon atoms, for example methyl laurate, ethyl laurate, propyl laurate, isopropyl laurate, butyl laurate, 2-butyl laurate, laurate hexyl, methyl cocoate, ethyl cocoate, propyl cocoate, isopropyl cocoate, butyl cocoate, 2-butyl cocoate, hexyl cocoate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, propyl myristate , isopropyl myristate, butyl myristate, 2-butyl myristate, hexyl myristate, oct
  • said oil (H) is chosen from:
  • the term "emulsifying surfactant of the water-in-oil type (S1)” denotes an emulsifying surfactant having an HLB value ("Hydrophile Lipophile Balance ” or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) sufficiently low to induce the formation of a water-in-oil type emulsion, namely an emulsion in which the aqueous phase will be dispersed and stabilized in the oily organic phase.
  • HLB value Hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
  • esters of anhydro hexitol and of aliphatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or several hydroxyl groups
  • esters of anhydro hexitol chosen from anhydro-sorbitols and anhydro-mannitols and of aliphatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids, containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups are particularly the esters of anhydro hexitol chosen from anhydro-sorbitols and anhydro-mannitols and of aliphatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids, containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups.
  • the emulsifying system (S1) of the water-in-oil type is more particularly chosen from the elements of the group consisting of:
  • emulsifying surfactant of water-in-oil type (S1) mention may be made, for example, of polyglycerol esters, a compound of formula (XIX):
  • R2 represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 11 to 35 carbon atoms and more particularly a radical chosen from the dodecanoyl, tetradecanoyl, hexadecanoyl, octadecanoyl, eicosanoyl, docosanoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenoyl or isostearyl radicals
  • y represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 20.
  • the compound of formula (XIX) is chosen from the elements of the group consisting of decaglycerol oleate, decaglycerol isostearate, decaglycerol monolaurate, decaglycerol mono-linoleate, mono-myristate of decaglycerol.
  • emulsifying surfactant of water-in-oil type (S1) mention may be made, for example, of alkoxylated polyglycerol esters, a compound of formula (XX):
  • R'2 represents an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 11 to 35 carbon atoms, and more particularly a radical chosen from the dodecanoyl, tetradecanoyl, hexadecanoyl, octadecanoyl, eicosanoyl, docosanoyl, oleyl, linoleyl, linolenoyl or isostearyl radicals
  • R3 represents the hydrogen atom, the methyl radical, or the ethyl radical
  • y1 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less or equal to 20, v1, v2, v3, identical or different, represent an integer greater than or
  • an emulsifying surfactant of the water-in-oil type of formula (XXI) which can be used to prepare the emulsifying system (S1) there is PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate marketed under the name SIMALINETM WO, or else the mixtures comprising PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate and sold under the names SIMALINETMIE 201 A and SIMALINETMIE 201 B, or else the mixture comprising Trimethylolpropane-30 tripolyhydroxystearate sold under the name SIMALINETMIE 301 B.
  • emulsifying surfactant of the water-in-oil type (S1) mention may be made, for example, of the polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates, represented by the formula (XXIII):
  • Z3 represents a radical of formula (XXIII) as defined above
  • Z'3 represents a radical of formula (XXII) as defined above, with Z3' identical to or different from Z3, or the atom d hydrogen
  • y3 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 20.
  • emulsifying surfactant of the water-in-oil type (S1) mention may be made, for example, of alkoxylated polyglycerol polyhydroxystearates, a compound represented by the formula (XXIV):
  • Z4 represents a radical of formula (XXII) as defined above
  • Z'4 represents a radical of formula (XXII) as defined above, with Z4' identical to or different from Z4, or the atom d 'hydrogen
  • y4 represents an integer greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 20
  • v'1, v'2, v'3, identical or different represent an integer greater than or equal to 0 and less than or equal to 50
  • the sum [(y4. v'1) + (y4. v'2) + v'3)] is an integer greater than or equal to 1 and less than or equal to 50.
  • the term “emulsifying surfactant of the oil-in-water type (S2)” denotes an emulsifying surfactant having a sufficiently high HLB value to induce the formation of an emulsion of the oil-in-water type, namely an emulsion in which the oily organic phase will be dispersed and stabilized in the aqueous phase.
  • step g) of the process which is the subject of the present invention as surfactant of the oil-in-water type (S2), mention may be made of the “polyethoxylated fatty alcohols” designated by the compounds of formula (XXV):
  • R'' representing a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, which may bear hydroxyl groups, and comprising from six to twenty-two carbon atoms, and with n' representing an integer greater than or equal to four and less than or equal to one hundred.
  • R'' represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated and containing from ten to twenty-two carbon atoms.
  • the compound of formula (XXV) is a linear decyl alcohol ethoxylated with six moles of ethylene oxide, a linear decyl alcohol ethoxylated with eight moles of ethylene oxide, a linear lauryl alcohol ethoxylated with six moles of ethylene oxide, linear lauryl alcohol ethoxylated with seven moles of ethylene oxide, linear lauryl alcohol ethoxylated with eight moles of ethylene oxide, linear tridecyl alcohol ethoxylated with six moles of ethylene oxide, a linear tridecyl alcohol ethoxylated with eight moles of ethylene oxide, a linear tridecyl alcohol ethoxylated with nine moles of ethylene oxide.
  • step g) of the process which is the subject of the present invention as surfactant of oil-in-water type (S2), mention may be made of polyethoxylated hexitan esters, and particularly polyethoxylated sorbitan esters, whose chain aliphatic hydrocarbon contains from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and whose number of ethylene oxide units is between 5 and 40, for example ethoxylated sorbitan oleate with 20 moles of ethylene oxide marketed under the name commercial MontanoxTM80, or sorbitan laurate ethoxylated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide marketed under the trade name MontanoxTM20.
  • MontanoxTM80 sorbitan laurate ethoxylated with 20 moles of ethylene oxide marketed under the trade name MontanoxTM20.
  • step g) of the process which is the subject of the present invention as surfactant of the oil-in-water type (S2), mention may be made of the compositions of alkyl polyglycosides (C1) represented by the formula (XXVI):
  • composition (C1) consisting of a mixture of compounds represented by the formulas (XXVI1), (XXVI2), (XXVI3), (XXVI4) and (XXVI5):
  • aliphatic hydrocarbon radical saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups
  • reducing sugar in the definition of formula (XXVI) as defined above, is meant the saccharide derivatives which do not have in their structures a glycoside bond established between an anomeric carbon and the oxygen of an acetal group such as that they are defined in the reference work: “Biochemistry”, Daniel Voet/Judith G. Voet, p. 250, John Wyley & Sons, 1990.
  • the oligomeric structure (G)x can occur in all forms of isomerism, whether optical isomerism, geometric isomerism or position isomerism; it can also represent a mixture of isomers.
  • R1-O- group is linked to G via the anomeric carbon of the saccharide residue, so as to form an acetal function.
  • G represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from glucose, dextrose, sucrose, fructose, idose, gulose, galactose, maltose, isomaltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, xylose, arabinose, lyxose, allose, altrose, dextran or tallose; and more particularly G represents the residue of a reducing sugar chosen from the residues of glucose, xylose and arabinose.
  • x in the definition of formula (XXVI) x, or average degree of polymerization, represents a decimal number greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 1.05 and less than or equal to 2.0, and even more particularly greater than or equal to 1.25 and less than or equal to 2.0.
  • step g) of the process which is the subject of the present invention as surfactant of the oil-in-water type (S2), mention may be made of the compositions (C2) comprising for 100% of their mass:
  • compositions (C13) comprising for 100% of their masses:
  • composition (CA), object of the present invention consists in thickening polar phases such as, for example, aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic phases or polar phases comprising polyols such as glycerol .
  • said use consists in stabilizing an emulsion of the oil-in-water type, or of the water-in-oil type, by conferring a homogeneous appearance on said emulsion during storage under different conditions, and more particularly at 25 °C for a period at least equal to one month, and more particularly at 4°C for a period at least equal to one month, and more particularly at 45°C for a period at least equal to one month.
  • said use consists in stabilizing solid particles in topical cosmetic or dermocosmetic compositions.
  • These solid particles to be suspended can take on different geometries, regular or irregular, and take the form of beads, balls, rods, flakes, lamellae or polyhedrons. These solid particles are characterized by an average apparent diameter of between one micrometer and five millimeters, more particularly between ten micrometers and one millimeter.
  • the solid particles which can be suspended and stabilized by the emulsion (CA) of the water-in-oil type as defined above in topical cosmetic and dermocosmetic compositions there are micas, iron oxide, titanium oxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide, talc, silica, kaolin, clays, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydrogen carbonate magnesium, inorganic colored pigments, polyamides such as nylon-6, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polystyrenes, polyesters, acrylic or methacrylic polymers such as polymethylmethacrylates, polytetrafluoroethylene, crystalline or microcrystalline waxes, porous spheres, selenium sulphide, zinc pyrithione, starches, alginates, vegetable fibers, Loofah particles, sponge particles.
  • micas such as nylon-6, polyethylenes, polypropylenes, polystyrenes, polyesters, acrylic or methacrylic polymers such as polymethylmethacrylates,
  • composition (F) topical means that it is implemented by application to the skin, the hair, the scalp or the mucous membranes, whether it is a direct application in the case of a cosmetic or dermocosmetic preparation, or indirect application, for example in the case of a body care product in the form of a textile or paper wipe or sanitary products intended to be in contact with skin or mucous membranes.
  • Said composition (F) is generally in the form of an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic or hydro-glycolic solution, in the form of a suspension, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nano-emulsion, which they are of the water-in-oil, oil-in-water, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil type.
  • Said composition (F) as defined previously can be packaged in a bottle, in a device of the pump “bottle” type, in pressurized form in an aerosol device, in a device provided with an openwork wall such as a grid or in a device provided with a ball applicator (known as a "roll-on").
  • said composition (F) also comprises excipients and/or active principles usually used in the field of formulations for topical use, in particular cosmetic or dermocosmetic, such as thickening and/or gelling surfactants, stabilizers, film-forming compounds, hydrotropic agents, plasticizers, emulsifying and co-emulsifying agents, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, conditioning agents , bleaching agents intended for the bleaching of hair and skin, active ingredients intended to provide a treatment action vis-à-vis the skin or hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active ingredients, exfoliating particles, texture agents.
  • cosmetic or dermocosmetic such as thickening and/or gelling surfactants, stabilizers, film-forming compounds, hydrotropic agents, plasticizers, emulsifying and co-emulsifying agents, opacifying agents, pearl
  • foaming surfactants and/or detergents which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined previously, mention may be made of foaming surfactants and/or detergents anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic.
  • foaming and/or detergent anionic surfactants which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above, mention may be made of the salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium, amines or amino alcohols, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alpha-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, d alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl
  • foaming and/or detergent amphoteric surfactants which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined previously, mention may be made of alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.
  • foaming and/or detergent cationic surfactants which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above, mention may be made in particular of the quaternary ammonium derivatives .
  • foaming and/or detergent nonionic surfactants which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above
  • alkylpolyglycosides comprising a aliphatic radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as octyl polyglucoside, decyl polyglucoside, undecyl polyglucoside, dodecyl polyglucoside, tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, 1-12 dodecanediyl polyglucoside; ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil derivatives such as the product marketed under the INCI name "Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil”; polysorbates such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 70, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 85; copra amides
  • thickening and/or gelling surfactants which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above
  • fatty esters of alkylpolyglycosides optionally alkoxylated such as ethoxylated methylpolyglucoside esters such as PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate marketed respectively under the names GLUCAMATETM LT and GLUMATETM DOE120; alkoxylated fatty esters such as PEG 150 pentaerythrytyl tetrastearate sold under the name CROTHIXTM DS53, PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate sold under the name ANTILTM 141; polyalkylene glycol carbamates with fatty chains such as PPG-14 laureth isophoryl dicarbamate sold under the name ELFACOSTM T211, PPG-14 palmeth-60 hexy
  • thickening and/or gelling agents which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above
  • R'3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R'4 represents a
  • n' represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty.
  • oses such as glucans or glucose homopolymers, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans, galactomannans whose degree of substitution (DS) of the D-galactose units on the
  • thickening and/or gelling agents which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined previously, mention may be made of polysaccharides consisting of derivatives of oses, such as sulfated galactans and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronans and more particularly algins, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of oses and uronic acids and more particularly xanthan gum, gum gellan, gum arabic and gum karaya exudates, glucosaminoglycans.
  • oses such as sulfated galactans and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronans and more particularly algins, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of oses and uronic acids and more particularly xanthan gum, gum gellan, gum arabic and gum karaya exudates, glucosaminoglycans.
  • thickening and/or gelling agents which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above, mention may be made of cellulose, derivatives of cellulose such as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic derivatives of starch, polyurethanes.
  • stabilizing agents which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined previously, mention may be made of microcrystalline waxes, and more particularly ozokerite , mineral salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, silicone polymers such as polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers.
  • solvents that can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined previously, mention can be made of water, organic solvents such as glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol , water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, mixtures of water and said organic solvents.
  • organic solvents such as glycerol, diglycerol, glycerol oligomers, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xy
  • thermal or mineral waters having a mineralization of at least 300 mg/l, in particular Avène water, Vittel water, water from the Vichy basin, Uriage water, water from La Roche Posay, water from la Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-bains, water from Saint-Gervais-les-bains, water from Néris-les-bains, water from Allevard-les-bains, water from Digne, water from Maizines, water from Neyrac-les-bains, water from Lons le Saunier, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Fumades and water from Tercis -the baths.
  • hydrotropic agents which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined previously, mention may be made of xylene sulphonates, cumene sulphonates, hexylpolyglucoside, 2-ethylhexylpolyglucoside, n-heptylpolyglucoside.
  • emulsifying surfactants which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above, mention may be made of nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants.
  • emulsifying nonionic surfactants that can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above
  • fatty acid esters and sorbitol such as the products marketed under the names MONTANETM40, MONTANETM60, MONTANETM70, MONTANETM80 and MONTANETM85
  • compositions comprising glycerol stearate and ethoxylated stearic acid between 5 moles and 150 moles of ethylene oxide, such as the composition comprising ethoxylated stearic acid at 135 moles of ethylene oxide and glycerol stearate marketed under the name SIMULSOLTM 165
  • mannitan esters ethoxylated mannitan esters
  • sucrose esters methylglucoside esters
  • alkylpolyglycosides comprising an aliphatic, linear or branched, saturated or unsatur
  • anionic surfactants which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above, mention may be made of glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl sulphate, soaps such as sodium stearate or triethanolammonium stearate, N-acylated derivatives of salified amino acids, for example stearoyl glutamate.
  • emulsifying cationic surfactants which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined previously, mention may be made of amine oxides, quaternium-82 and surfactants described in patent application WO96/00719 and mainly those whose fatty chain comprises at least 16 carbon atoms.
  • opacifying and/or pearlescent agents which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above, mention may be made of sodium palmitate, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene distearate glycol, fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • texture agents that can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above
  • mention may be made of N-acylated derivatives of amino acids such as lauroyl lysine marketed under the name AMINOHOPETMLL, octenyl starch succinate marketed under the name DRYFLOTM, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOVTM 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica
  • deodorant agents which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above, mention may be made of alkali metal silicates, zinc salts such as zinc sulfate, zinc gluconate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glycerol caprate, glycerol caprylate, polyglycerol caprate; 1,2 decanediol; 1,3 propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metallic zeolites; TRICLOSANTM; aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum hydrochlorides, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulphate, aluminum and zirconium hydrochlorides, aluminum and zirconium trihydrochloride, aluminum and zirconium tetrahydrochloride , aluminum
  • oils that can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above
  • mineral oils such as paraffin oil, vaseline oil, isoparaffins or white mineral oils
  • oils of animal origin such as squalene or squalane
  • vegetable oils such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppyseed oil , pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, bankoulier oil, passionflower oil , hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula, oils from flowers or vegetables, ethoxylated vegetable oils; synthetic oils such
  • waxes that can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and fatty acids which are solid at room temperature; solid glycerides at room temperature.
  • waxes in the present application is meant compounds and/or mixtures of compounds that are insoluble in water, appearing in a solid appearance at a temperature greater than or equal to 45° C.
  • vitamins and their derivatives in particular their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (eg retinyl palmitate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (such as ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol ( vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); compounds showing a lightening or depigmenting action on the skin such as ⁇ -undecelynoyl phenylalanine marketed under the name SEPIWHITETMMSH, SEPICALMTMVG, the mono ester and/or the glycerol diester of ⁇ -undecelynoyl phenylalanine, the ⁇ - undecelynoy
  • esters such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (eg retinyl palmitate), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its est
  • antioxidant agents which can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above, mention may be made of EDTA and its salts, the acid citric acid, tartaric acid, oxalic acid, BHA (butylhydroxyanisole), BHT (butylhydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as DISSOLVINETM GL 47S marketed by the company Akzo Nobel under the INCI name: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate.
  • sunscreens that can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above, mention can be made of all those appearing in cosmetic directive 76/768/ EEC modified appendix VII.
  • organic sunscreens that can be combined with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined above
  • benzoic acid derivatives such as para-aminobenzoic acids (PABA), including monoglycerol esters of PABA, ethyl esters of N,N25 propoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N,N-diethoxy PABA, ethyl esters of N,N-dimethyl PABA, methyl esters of N,N-dimethyl PABA, N,N-dimethyl PABA butyl esters
  • PABA para-aminobenzoic acids
  • anthranilic acid derivatives such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate
  • salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isoprop
  • mineral screens which can be associated with the emulsion of the water-in-oil (CA) type in said composition (F) as defined previously, mention can be made of the oxides of titanium, zinc oxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow, red or black iron oxides, chromium oxides. These mineral screens may or may not be micronized, may or may not have undergone surface treatments and may optionally be presented in the form of aqueous or oily pre-dispersions.
  • the synthesis process comprises the following steps:
  • the synthesis process comprises the following steps:
  • composition (E2) The mixture is homogenized at room temperature with mechanical stirring at moderate speed to obtain composition (E2).
  • the synthesis process comprises the following steps:
  • the mixture obtained is stirred using a magnetic stirrer and a magnetic bar.
  • composition (E3) The mixture is homogenized at room temperature with mechanical stirring at moderate speed to obtain composition (E3).
  • the synthesis process comprises the following steps:
  • composition (E4) The mixture is homogenized at room temperature with mechanical stirring at moderate speed to obtain composition (E4).
  • the synthesis process comprises the following steps:
  • the mixture is homogenized at room temperature with mechanical stirring at moderate speed to obtain the composition (E5).
  • the synthesis process comprises the following steps:
  • the mixture is homogenized at room temperature with mechanical stirring at moderate speed to obtain the composition (E6).
  • the synthesis process comprises the following steps:
  • the mixture is homogenized at room temperature with mechanical stirring at moderate speed to obtain the composition (E7).
  • the synthesis process comprises the following steps:
  • the mixture is homogenized at room temperature with mechanical stirring at moderate speed to obtain the composition (E8).
  • the synthesis process comprises the following steps:
  • composition (E9) The mixture is homogenized at room temperature with mechanical stirring at moderate speed to obtain composition (E9).
  • the synthesis process comprises the following steps:
  • the mixture is homogenized at room temperature with mechanical stirring at moderate speed to obtain the composition (E10).
  • the synthesis process comprises the following steps:
  • compositions (E1) to (E11) according to the invention make it possible to obtain thickened aqueous gels compared to the aqueous gel obtained from a non-crosslinked sodium gamma-polyglutamate (“control test”).
  • the aqueous gels obtained with the compositions (E1) and (E3) respectively show a viscosity of 76,000 mPa.s and 91,600 mPa.s, whereas the aqueous gel obtained with the Non-crosslinked sodium gamma-polyglutamate (“control test”) is characterized by a viscosity of 176 mPa.s.
  • the aqueous gels obtained with the compositions (E2), (E4), (E8), (E9) and (E10) respectively show a viscosity of 124,000 mPa.s, 117 200 mPa.s, 9,540 mPa.s, 91,800 mPa.s and 78,000 mPa.s, whereas the aqueous gel obtained with 2% by weight non-crosslinked sodium gamma-polyglutamate (“control test”) is characterized by a viscosity of 176 mPa.s.

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EP21843743.2A 2021-01-07 2021-12-22 Composition comprenant des polymères d'origine naturelle et qui présentent des propriétés épaississantes de milieux polaires Pending EP4274859A1 (fr)

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