EP4267079A1 - Composition cosmétique de soin ou de parfum sous forme bi-phasique - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique de soin ou de parfum sous forme bi-phasique

Info

Publication number
EP4267079A1
EP4267079A1 EP21859323.4A EP21859323A EP4267079A1 EP 4267079 A1 EP4267079 A1 EP 4267079A1 EP 21859323 A EP21859323 A EP 21859323A EP 4267079 A1 EP4267079 A1 EP 4267079A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition according
oil
composition
silicone oil
phase
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21859323.4A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Elodie CHAMPREDONDE
Valérie BOUCHARD DE LA POTERIE
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LVMH Recherche GIE
Original Assignee
LVMH Recherche GIE
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LVMH Recherche GIE filed Critical LVMH Recherche GIE
Publication of EP4267079A1 publication Critical patent/EP4267079A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q13/00—Formulations or additives for perfume preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26—Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/87—Application Devices; Containers; Packaging

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a new biphasic cosmetic care or perfume composition having an original visual appearance due to the presence of two distinct phases and excellent application properties such as the absence of a sticky feeling to the touch and sprayability.
  • the present invention relates more particularly to a care or perfume composition in biphasic form, as well as a method for caring for the skin and/or perfuming comprising a step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention of preferably by spraying.
  • compositions having an original visual appearance for example by dispersing solid particles of different colors in a transparent continuous phase.
  • Cosmetic compositions in which solid spheroids are dispersed in a liquid phase have also been described in the prior art.
  • compositions of the prior art comprise capsules whose core is liquid and whose outer wall is solid, obtained by a coacervation process.
  • Bi-phasic compositions usually have two distinct layers separated by a horizontal interphase, the light phase being above the heavy phase.
  • the light phase is generally composed of oil and the heavy phase mainly water.
  • the arrangement of the phases one above the other is due to the difference in density between the two phases, the density of the oils being lower than that of water (the oily phase therefore being placed in the upper part of the container).
  • the invention consists of a skincare composition or a perfume composition having a biphasic form different from those of the prior art in which the heavy (dense) phase is the oily phase.
  • the oily phase is placed in the lower part of the container in the form of one or more ball(s) liquids, thus giving an original look to the final cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is therefore in the form of one or more liquid beads dispersed within a liquid phase of different density, the bead(s) being free of external coating, and in particular of external solid coating.
  • the oily phase (or fatty phase) disperses in the form of droplets in the aqueous phase, the mixture returning to its initial shape after a few minutes. (5 to 10 minutes), with the oily phase in the form of one or more ball(s) in the lower part of the container.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention also differs from the two-phase compositions of the prior art in that it is free of polysaccharide gelling agent, and consequently very fluid (not in gel form).
  • the oily and aqueous phases can thus mix very finely, which makes the cosmetic composition of the invention sprayable (applicable by spraying).
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is reversible and can return to its initial shape after shaking.
  • the object of the invention is therefore to propose a new visual for skin care or perfume compositions.
  • the care or perfume composition of the invention must be able to convey cosmetic active agents and/or perfume by spraying, be stable over time, and have a non-greasy and non-sticky feel.
  • the care or perfume composition of the invention also has improved sensory performance, in particular a freshness effect when the aqueous phase present within the composition of the invention evaporates, while providing an emollient or perfuming effect. with the oily phase.
  • composition of the invention leads to better stabilization of the active agents present in the composition, said active agents being very little degraded when they are combined with the mixture of oils claimed by the invention.
  • perfume it has been observed that the composition of the invention makes it possible to obtain alcohol-free formulas having performance equivalent to an alcoholic perfume, the use of alcohol being currently called into question because of risks in some users of intolerance, allergy, irritation, photosensitization and alcohol use safety.
  • Another advantage of the invention lies in the absence or the very small quantity of surfactant required, the cosmetic composition of the invention possibly containing less than 0.1% by weight of surfactant, in order to preserve the bi-phase appearance of the composition observed at rest and good skin tolerance, without degrading the olfactory and organoleptic properties of the composition.
  • the first subject of the present invention is a two-phase cosmetic composition
  • a two-phase cosmetic composition comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase, the aqueous phase representing at least 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition, the oily phase comprising at least one aromatic silicone oil a ) and at least one second oil different from the aromatic silicone oil a), and the density of the oily phase being greater than the density of the aqueous phase at 20°C.
  • a simple test to determine if the density of the oily phase is greater than the density of the aqueous phase at 20°C consists in mixing the two phases according to the ratio chosen by stirring, then after stopping the stirring to observe visually at rest (5 to 10 minutes after shaking) the behavior of the two phases relative to each other. If the oily phase is positioned below the aqueous phase in the container containing them, this means that the density of the oily phase is greater than the density of the aqueous phase at 20°C.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention has two inhomogeneous phases, preferably an aqueous phase and an oily phase, which are visually distinct on standing. It can be in the form of bi-phase comprising two visually distinct phases that are immiscible on standing (preferably an aqueous phase and an oily phase), which mix easily by agitation to allow homogeneous application, and quickly dephase after stopping agitation to return to their initial state (reversible character of the composition of the invention).
  • the composition has two superimposed visually distinct phases, preferably having a sharp interface.
  • the continuous phase of the composition is the aqueous phase, the oily phase being dispersed in the form of one or more spherical beads or else in the ovoid form.
  • one of the phases are transparent.
  • the oily phase of the invention is not dispersed homogeneously throughout the aqueous phase, but only in the bottom of the container containing the cosmetic composition of the invention.
  • the droplets of oily phase are in a state of equilibrium which will allow them to be maintained in the form dispersed (without coalescence) in the bottom of the container over time.
  • the composition of the invention may comprise less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of an emulsifying agent such as a surfactant or an emulsifying polymer, which risks degrading the appearance of bi- phase of the composition observed at rest and the olfactory and organoleptic properties of the composition. It preferably comprises less than 0.05%, and more preferably less than 0.01%, by weight of an emulsifying agent or of an emulsifying polymer relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the invention is free of an emulsifying agent such as a surfactant or an emulsifying polymer.
  • an emulsifying agent such as a surfactant or an emulsifying polymer
  • the composition comprises less than 0.1%, preferably less than 0.05%, and even more preferably less than 0.01%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of one or more surfactants not ionic, polyoxyalkylenated surfactants comprising at least five units chosen from - CH2CH(OH)CH2- and -OCH2CH2-, such as polyoxyethylene compounds and polyoxypropylene compounds.
  • composition is preferably free of nonionic surfactant.
  • polyoxyalkylenated ethers such as POE(IO) cetyl ether
  • polyoxyalkylenated esters such as PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil or POE(20) sorbitan monolaurate
  • condensates of polyoxyethylenated alkylphenols products of condensation of ethylene oxide with the reaction product of propylene oxide and ethylene diamine, polyethoxylated alcohols, polysorbates, and dimethicone copolyols.
  • the composition is preferably free of nonionic surfactant.
  • emulsifying polymer an amphiphilic polymer that is to say endowed with at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part.
  • Hydrophilic groups and hydrophobic groups are well known to those skilled in the art, capable of helping to form and stabilize emulsions. Mention may be made, as examples of emulsifying amphiphilic polymers, of polymers and copolymers based on AMPS, crosslinked or non-crosslinked, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers, in particular acrylate/C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymers and their mixtures.
  • the composition of the invention may comprise less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a gelling agent, and more particularly of a polysaccharide gelling agent such as xanthan gum, gellan gum , guar gum, alginates and carrageenans, agar-agar, etc. It preferably comprises less than 0.01%, and more preferably less than 0.001%, by weight of a polysaccharide gelling agent relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is free of a polysaccharide gelling agent. In the absence of gelling agent, and more particularly of polysaccharide gelling agent, the cosmetic composition of the invention is fluid, that is to say in non-gelled form, which makes it sprayable (applicable by spraying) .
  • the aqueous phase is very largely predominant and can represent at least 50%, preferably at least 60%, more preferably at least 65%, and even more preferably at least 70%, by weight of the total weight of the composition, the balance representing the % by weight of oily phase.
  • the arrangement of the aqueous and oily phases within the composition of the invention is due to the difference in density between the two phases.
  • the density of the aqueous phase is advantageously less than or equal to 1.00 g.cnT 3 at 20°C.
  • the density of the oily phase is for its part advantageously greater than 1.00 g. cm 3 at 20°C, and even more advantageously greater than 1.01 g.cm 3 at 20°C.
  • the oily phase consists of a mixture of oils, its density can be determined using a densimeter, for example a DMA 500 densimeter from Anton Paar.
  • the difference between the density of the aqueous phase and the density of the oily phase is less than or equal to 0.02.
  • the oily phase preferably represents at most 50%, more preferably at most 40%, even more preferably at most 35%, and even more preferably at most 30%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the balance representing the % by weight of aqueous phase.
  • the aromatic silicone oil a) preferably has a density greater than 1.00 g.cm 3 at 20°C, and more preferably greater than 1.01 g.cm 3 at 20°C.
  • the aromatic silicone oil a) is a silicone oil having at least one phenyl group, more advantageously having between one and five phenyl groups, and even more advantageously having five phenyl groups.
  • the aromatic silicone oil a) is a silicone oil having at least one phenyl group chosen from diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenylpropyl dimethylsiloxysilicate, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the aromatic silicone oil a) is trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane (CAS number: 3390-61-2 and INCI name: TRIMETHYL PENTAPHENYL TRISILOXANE).
  • the ratio between the aromatic silicone oil a) and the second oil different from the aromatic silicone oil a) can advantageously vary from 10/90 to 80/20.
  • the second oil other than the aromatic silicone oil a) present in the composition of the invention is preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil and/or an aromatic silicone oil b).
  • the second oil different from the aromatic silicone oil a) is advantageously soluble in the aromatic silicone oil a).
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one aromatic silicone oil b) different from the aromatic silicone oil a) having at least one phenyl group, preferably having one, two or three phenyl groups , and more preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicone (CAS number: 218-320-6 and INCI name: PHENYL TRIMETHICONE), diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone (CAS number: 352230-22-9 and INCI name: DIPHENYLSILOXY PHENYL TRIMETHICONE), and their mixtures.
  • phenyl trimethicone CAS number: 218-320-6 and INCI name: PHENYL TRIMETHICONE
  • diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone CAS number: 352230-22-9 and INCI name: DIPHENYLSILOXY PHENYL TRIMETHICONE
  • the ratio between the aromatic silicone oil a) and the second oil different from the aromatic silicone oil a) varies from 10/ 90 to 50/50, preferably from 15/85 to 40/60, and more preferably from 15/85 to 30/70.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is advantageously free of hydrocarbon oil.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises two different aromatic silicone oils a) and b), advantageously the aromatic silicone oil a) has five phenyl groups and the aromatic silicone oil b) has one, two or three phenyl groups.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises, as second oil different from the aromatic silicone oil a), at least one hydrocarbon-based oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil of plant origin, it may advantageously be a mixture of at least two hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, preferably chosen from acid triglycerides saturated fats in C4 to C24, more preferentially in C6 to C12, and even more preferentially in C8 to C10.
  • the hydrocarbon oil of vegetable origin is chosen from jojoba oil (CAS number: 90045-98-0 and INCI name: SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL), Meadowfoam oil (CAS number: 153065-40- 8 and INCI name: LIMNANTHES ALBA SEED OIL), a mixture of caprylic/capric triglycerides (CAS number: 73398-61-5 and 65381-09-1 and INCI name: CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE), and mixtures thereof.
  • jojoba oil CAS number: 90045-98-0 and INCI name: SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL
  • Meadowfoam oil CAS number: 153065-40- 8 and INCI name: LIMNANTHES ALBA SEED OIL
  • caprylic/capric triglycerides CAS number: 73398-61-5 and 65381-09-1 and INCI name: CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil of vegetable origin is chosen from Limnanthe oil (CAS number: 153065-40-8 and INCI name: LIMNANTHES ALBA SEED OIL), a mixture of caprylic/capric triglycerides (CAS number : 73398-61-5 and 65381-09-1 and INCI name: CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE), and mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the hydrocarbon oil of plant origin is a mixture of caprylic/capric triglycerides (CAS number: 73398-61-5 and 65381-09-1 and INCI name: CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE).
  • the ratio between the aromatic silicone oil a) and the second oil different from the aromatic silicone oil a) varies from 80/20 to 20/80, preferably from 70/30 to 30/70, more preferably from 65/35 to 35/70, and even more preferably from 60/40 to 40/60.
  • the oily phase comprises at least one nacre and/or at least one hydrophobic pigment (for example a hydrophobic pigment with a pearlescent effect).
  • the nacre and/or the hydrophobic pigment can represent from 0.01 to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is in the form of two phases (biphasic composition), an aqueous phase and an oily phase, visually distinct from each other.
  • the oily phase can be in the form of immiscible bead(s) within the aqueous phase.
  • the oil phase bead(s) are not solid capsules.
  • the ball(s) of oily phase are free of external coating.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the use of a cosmetic composition according to the invention for caring for the skin and/or as a perfume.
  • a composition for caring for the skin comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention and a cosmetic active ingredient.
  • Said cosmetic active ingredient is advantageously contained both in the aqueous phase and in the oily phase.
  • the cosmetic active agents can, for example, be advantageously chosen from anti-aging active agents, moisturizing agents, active agents with a whitening effect, or any other cosmetically active agent, the addition of which to the composition of the invention makes it possible to obtain a beneficial effect. for the skin.
  • the cosmetic active agent can be retinol palmitate, Lipochroman®-6 (dimethylmethoxy chromanol, CAS number: 83923-51-7), an esterified derivative of vitamin C such as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
  • the cosmetic active ingredient is an esterified derivative of vitamin C such as ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.
  • Another more specific object of the invention relates to a perfume composition
  • a perfume composition comprising a cosmetic composition according to the invention and a perfume concentrate, said perfume concentrate being advantageously contained in the oily phase.
  • perfume composition means a product in liquid form intended to perfume an individual after it has been sprayed or applied to the skin, hair or clothing. Such a product is not rinsed off after application.
  • the composition contains a perfume concentrate, also called “perfuming concentrate”.
  • the perfume concentrate may for example be chosen from compounds whose INCI name appears on the list of ingredients of a perfume composition offered for sale under the name “Perfume”.
  • a perfume concentrate is a compound or a mixture of compounds at least partially volatile at room temperature, the smell of which is detected.
  • the perfume concentrate made up of essential oils must necessarily be diluted to express its full olfactory potential, namely a perception changing during the day after application to the skin, dictated by the presence of odorous organic compounds with very different volatilities. each other.
  • the development of this perfume concentrate aims to give the perfuming composition a top note, a heart and base note.
  • the perfume concentrate preferably mainly comprises top notes and heart notes.
  • the perfume concentrate is prepared from natural or synthetic organic perfume materials.
  • fragrancing materials of natural origin mention may be made, for example, of extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, wood, herbs and grasses, resins and balms.
  • essential oils can also be used, such as the essences of bergamot, rose, lavender, sandalwood, cardamom, sage, chamomile, clove, lemon balm, mint, cinnamon leaves. , juniper, vetiver, olibanum, galbanum and labdanum.
  • perfuming substances of synthetic origin mention may be made, for example, of hedione, ethylene brassilate and habanolide, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert acetate -butylcyclohexyl, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, geranyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl-benzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenyl glycinate, propionate alkylcyclohexyl, styralyl propionate and benzyl salicylate, benzylethyl ether, linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen
  • the olfactory notes are often classified in families which allow a consumer to know what perception he should expect. Mention may be made, for example, of citrus perfumes, aromatics, floral perfumes, musk, fruity perfumes, spices, oriental perfumes, marine perfumes, aquatic notes, chypre perfumes, woody perfumes, ferns, leathers and their mixtures.
  • the perfume concentrate represents at least 1%, preferably at least 3%, more preferably at least 5%, even more preferably at least 7% by weight, and better still at least 10%, and even better still at least 15%, in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the perfume concentrate can represent from 3 to 40%, preferably from 5 to 35%, for example from 7 to 30% or from 10 to 25%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition may contain at least one additional cosmetically acceptable ingredient, such as colorants or antioxidants.
  • the dyes can be either water-soluble or fat-soluble, depending on the phase that one wishes to color.
  • Colorants are for example: Caramel, Yellow 5, Acid Blue 9/ Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3 / Fast Green FCF 3, Orange 4, Red 4 / Food Red 1, Yellow 6, Acid Red 33 / Food Red 12 , Red 40, cochineal carmine (Cl 15850, Cl 75470), Ext. Violet 2, Red 6-7, Ferrie Ferrocyanide, Ultramarines, Acid Yellow 3 / Yellow 10, Acid Blue 3, Yellow 10.
  • Fat-soluble dyes are e.g. Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, Beta- carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto.
  • the colorants generally represent from 0.01 to 1%, preferably from 0.05 to 0.5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • antioxidants mention may be made, for example, of ascorbic acid, di-tert-butyl-p-hydroxy toluene (also called BHT or 2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol), BHA (tert- butyl-4-hydroxyanisole), tocopherols such as vitamin E, tocopherol derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate, gallic acid and its derivatives.
  • BHT di-tert-butyl-p-hydroxy toluene
  • BHA tert- butyl-4-hydroxyanisole
  • tocopherols such as vitamin E
  • tocopherol derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate
  • gallic acid and its derivatives examples, for example, of ascorbic acid, di-tert-butyl-p-hydroxy toluene (also called BHT or 2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol), BHA (tert- butyl-4-hydroxyanisole), tocopherols such
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention may be packaged in a container optionally provided with an application means.
  • the application means can be a spray means.
  • the invention also relates to a bottle provided with an application means and a packaging means, and containing the composition described above.
  • the term “vial” also means containers of the bottle, bulb, pipette, etc. type.
  • the packaging means is preferably transparent in order to allow the cosmetic composition of the invention to be seen, which is itself preferably transparent.
  • the means of application can be a manual pump, and preferably a sprayer.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention can be applied in the form of fine droplets by means of a pressurization device. These devices are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant, as well as aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant.
  • the subject of the invention is a method for caring for the skin and/or perfuming comprising the following steps: i- agitation of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, preferably contained in a bottle, to mix the aqueous phase with the oily phase, and ii- application of the mixed cosmetic composition obtained at the end of step i- either directly using the fingers or with a cotton ball, or by spraying, and preferably by spraying.
  • This method can be a method for caring for the skin or a method for perfuming the skin or the hair of an individual, which consists in applying, preferably using a spraying means, to the skin or hair of the individual, the composition of the invention described above.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is preferably applied directly to the skin, and more preferably to the face or to a part of the body which is not the face.
  • the invention also comprises other provisions which will emerge from the additional description which follows, which relates to the preparation of cosmetic compositions according to the invention.
  • a formula A comprising 90% by weight of aqueous phase and 10% by weight of oily phase was prepared.
  • the density of formula A is measured using a DMA 500 densimeter from Anton Paar, at a temperature of 22°C.
  • the oily phase consists of the mixtures of oils presented in the following Table 2 (% by weight):
  • Example 3 Compatibility with nacres and hydrophobic pigments
  • Formula A of Example 2 was tested in the presence of different nacres and a hydrophobic pigment in order to evaluate the affinity of the solid particles with the aqueous and fatty phases and their impact on the stabilization of the fatty phase in the form of balls.
  • Formulas A1 to A-4 of Table 3 were prepared (% by weight):
  • Phase A is the aqueous phase. It is homogenized with stirring.
  • Phase B is the oily phase. It is pre-dispersed separately.
  • Phase C is the powder phase. It is dispersed in phase B, then the mixture of phases B and C is added to phase A.
  • Formula A-l The hydrophilic nacre with silica stabilizes the oily phase in several medium-sized nacreous balls in the bottom of the container.
  • Formula A-2 Silica-free hydrophilic nacre similarly stabilizes the oily phase into several medium-sized nacreous beads in the bottom of the container. A slight yellowing is observed.
  • Formula A-3 The hydrophobic treated pearlescent pigment particles are fully wetted by the oily phase, which remains as a single pearlescent bead. The pigment particles are deposited at the internal interphase of the ball formed by the oily phase, and protect this phase from the aqueous phase. An excess of pearlescent pigment is observed at the bottom of the container.
  • Formula A-4 A formula similar to Formula A-3 is prepared with a lower amount of hydrophobic treated pearlescent pigment. A single pearly ball is obtained, all the pigment particles being placed at the interphase of the aqueous and oily phases, without any deposit in the bottom of the container.
  • Example 4 Formulation of a care composition with several iridescent beads A care formula according to the invention with several iridescent beads corresponding to the composition of Table 4 was prepared:
  • Phase A is the aqueous phase. It is homogenized with stirring, ensuring the proper dissolution of salts and preservatives.
  • Phase B is the oily phase. It is pre-dispersed separately.
  • Phase C is the powder phase. It is dispersed in phase B. The mixture of phases B and C is added to phase A.
  • the care composition obtained is packaged in a bottle equipped with a spray device.
  • the composition is in the form of a bi-phasic composition, of which the two immiscible transparent phases are visually distinct, the oily phase consisting of several iridescent beads located at the bottom of the bottle.
  • the care composition is sprayed onto the skin.
  • the composition is left to stand in its packaging for a few minutes. The formation again of several balls at the bottom of the flask is rapidly observed.
  • the reversibility of the two-phase composition of the invention to return to its initial state is particularly surprising, especially since it is accompanied for the user by a cool and pleasant effect on the skin.
  • the cosmetic composition thus prepared is also tested to study its moisturizing properties on the skin.
  • the hydration is measured by corneometry, using a CORNEOMETER CM825 device supplied by the company Courage & Khazaka SN “NUM_SERIE” known to those skilled in the art.
  • the method for measuring the hydration of the stratum corneum is based on the creation of an electric field on the surface of the skin and the detection using electrodes of the variations in the dielectric constant induced by the state of hydration. of the upper layer of the epidermis (see on this subject the work by E. Berardesca, EEMCO guidance for the assessment of stratum corneum hydration: electrical methods - Skin Research and Technology 1997; 3: 126-132).
  • the cosmetic composition prepared is packaged in a transparent bottle fitted with a spray device.
  • the bottle is stirred manually so as to homogenize the bi-phase, and the composition is sprayed onto the forearm of a voluntary individual.
  • the quantity applied corresponds to 2 ⁇ l/cm 2 of skin.
  • the application area is then protected from friction by placing a metal ring surrounding the area of application, secured to the forearm with adhesive tape.
  • a measurement is taken on the application area, before application of the cosmetic composition, then 6 hours after application of the cosmetic composition, allowing a period of 15 minutes of stabilization to pass after removal of the protection against -friction, before carrying out the measurement.
  • the residual film of the cosmetic composition of the invention is wiped off from the application area.
  • the variation in hydration between the measurements at T0 and T+6h is measured according to the method described above.
  • the variation measured is as follows:
  • Example 4 In addition to the markedly improved level of hydration, the cosmetic composition of Example 4 leads to an effect of freshness and lightness after spraying on the skin. Formulation of a care composition with a single transparent ball
  • Phase A is the aqueous phase. It is homogenized with stirring.
  • Phase B is the oily phase. It is pre-dispersed separately. Phase B is then added to phase A, then the mixture stirred and allowed to stand at room temperature.
  • the care composition obtained is packaged in a bottle equipped with a spray device.
  • the composition is presented at rest in the form of a two-phase composition, of which the two immiscible transparent phases are visually distinct, the oily phase consisting of a single transparent ball being located at the bottom of the bottle.
  • the care composition is sprayed onto the skin.
  • the cosmetic composition of example 5 is sprayed onto the skin in the form of fine droplets.
  • the application of the cosmetic composition to the skin produces a feeling of freshness and lightness, while leaving a film comprising the active ingredients for the care of the skin on the skin.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention After a few minutes at rest, the cosmetic composition of the invention returns to the initial state with the oily phase in the form of beads in the bottom of the bottle.
  • Example 6 Formulation of a care composition with a single pearly ball A care formula according to the invention with a single pearly ball corresponding to the composition of Table 6 was prepared:
  • Phase A is the aqueous phase. It is homogenized with stirring.
  • Phase B is the oily phase. It is pre-dispersed separately.
  • Phase C is the powder phase. It is dispersed in phase B.
  • phase A The mixture of phases B and C is added to phase A.
  • the care composition obtained is packaged in a bottle equipped with a spray device.
  • the composition is presented at rest in the form of a two-phase composition, of which the two immiscible transparent phases are visually distinct, the oily phase consisting of a single pearly ball located at the bottom of the bottle.
  • the care composition is sprayed onto the skin of the face, to obtain a moisturizing effect coupled with a freshness effect on application.
  • the cosmetic composition in biphasic form re-forms after a few minutes after use, and appears visually in the form of a pearly ball at the bottom of the bottle filled with an aqueous continuous phase.
  • Example 7 Formulation of a composition comprising an aromatic silicone oil and a hydrocarbon oil
  • Phase A is the aqueous phase. It is homogenized with stirring.
  • Phase B is the oily phase. It is pre-dispersed separately.
  • Phase C is the powder phase. It is dispersed in phase B.
  • phase A The mixture of phases B and C is added to phase A.
  • the cosmetic composition obtained is in two-phase form with the oily phase in the form of beads in the bottom of the bottle and the aqueous phase above, the composition of Example 8 also being applicable by spraying.
  • This example shows that part of the aromatic silicone oil can be substituted by a hydrocarbon oil, while providing the same original appearance and the same ease of application by spraying.
  • Example 8 Formulation of compositions comprising a sensitive active
  • compositions according to the invention comprising an active ingredient sensitive to air or to water, media in which the active ingredients generally degrade rapidly, have been prepared.
  • the active ingredient tested is a derivative of ascorbic acid, i.e. ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (NIKKOL® VC IP).
  • the active ingredient was added to the oily phase of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, as well as to control compositions free of aromatic silicone oil a) and of second oil different from the aromatic silicone oil a), in the proportions ( % by weight) indicated in Tables 8 and 9 below:
  • control composition of the composition of Table 8 is identical but without oil (absence of Trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride).
  • compositions according to the invention and the control compositions were then stored in an oven at 40° C. for 15 days.
  • the dosage of the active ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in the compositions was carried out at T0 and T+15 days.
  • the active ingredient dissolved in the oily phase is located at the bottom of the bottle and protected from contact with water and air, which prevents any degradation of the active ingredient and improves its stability. .

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EP21859323.4A 2020-12-23 2021-12-17 Composition cosmétique de soin ou de parfum sous forme bi-phasique Pending EP4267079A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2014092A FR3117800B1 (fr) 2020-12-23 2020-12-23 Composition cosmétique de soin ou de parfum sous forme bi-phasique
PCT/FR2021/052393 WO2022136782A1 (fr) 2020-12-23 2021-12-17 Composition cosmetique de soin ou de parfum sous forme bi-phasique

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US (1) US20240041711A1 (ko)
EP (1) EP4267079A1 (ko)
JP (1) JP2024501827A (ko)
KR (1) KR20230124686A (ko)
CN (1) CN116744887A (ko)
FR (1) FR3117800B1 (ko)
WO (1) WO2022136782A1 (ko)

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KR102160066B1 (ko) * 2013-12-18 2020-09-29 로레알 저량의 알코올을 포함하는 피커링 에멀젼 조성물
EP2954935A1 (en) * 2014-06-12 2015-12-16 Coty Inc. Biphasic composition for perfume and personal care applications and uses thereof
KR102008275B1 (ko) * 2019-02-14 2019-08-07 (주)아모레퍼시픽 항산화 물질을 포함하는 화장료 조성물
CN111700856A (zh) * 2020-07-21 2020-09-25 广州蜜妆生物科技有限公司 一种含微油珠的护肤精华

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FR3117800A1 (fr) 2022-06-24
CN116744887A (zh) 2023-09-12
JP2024501827A (ja) 2024-01-16
US20240041711A1 (en) 2024-02-08
KR20230124686A (ko) 2023-08-25
FR3117800B1 (fr) 2023-08-25

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