EP4262742A1 - Compositions colorantes comprenant un extrait des parties aériennes de sorghum bicolor (l.) moench - Google Patents
Compositions colorantes comprenant un extrait des parties aériennes de sorghum bicolor (l.) moenchInfo
- Publication number
- EP4262742A1 EP4262742A1 EP21851616.9A EP21851616A EP4262742A1 EP 4262742 A1 EP4262742 A1 EP 4262742A1 EP 21851616 A EP21851616 A EP 21851616A EP 4262742 A1 EP4262742 A1 EP 4262742A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- extract
- weight
- coloring
- aerial parts
- lawsonia inermis
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
Links
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
- A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a method for preparing a coloring composition, in particular a coloring cosmetic composition for coloring keratin fibres, and to the compositions obtained by such a method.
- the coloring compositions comprise an extract of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench and an extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis.
- Cosmetic compositions intended for hair coloring do not escape the current trend of consumers seeking natural products.
- Plant-based hair colors are increasingly popular. These colors use dyes or pigments extracted from plants to color the hair. They are devoid of chemicals, of the oxidant or ammonia type, which can be aggressive for the hair.
- different dye plant extracts can be used (henna, indigo, katam, chamomile, madder, etc.).
- vegetable colorings include a combination of different extracts and/or powders of dyeing plants, the dosage of which can be complex.
- plant hair dyes have a few other disadvantages. They are generally less resistant to shampoos than traditional chemical colorings and require long break times of up to two hours. Obtaining an even color, especially in the presence of white hair, may also require repeated applications. In an effort to meet consumer needs and broaden the choice of shades, efforts are continuing to develop new vegetable coloring compositions that effectively color keratin fibers and are easy to use.
- red sorghum (Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench is grown there from Senegal to Sudan in the form of several inedible types (cultivars or varieties) of common sorghum. These types are exclusively grown for the red dye content in the leaves and in the stem The traditional preparation of this dye is made from the stems and leaves by aqueous extraction or pressing to release the juice.
- the active principles responsible for the coloring efficacy are anthocyanins rare in the plant kingdom, in particular derivatives of 3-deoxyanthocyanins, with a majority apigenidin and luteolinidin which represent 36 to 50% of the pigments (AWIKA JM - Properties of 3-Deoxyanthocyanins from Sorghum, J. Agric. Food Chem. 2004, 52, 4388-4394).
- these anthocyanin substances are associated with tannins of the condensed type of proanthocyanidins (which produce red phlobaphenes).
- the red pigment of the leaf sheath of sorghum represents more than 20% of its dry weight.
- Red Sorghum dye is traditionally used in Africa to color fabrics and other objects red (wool, yarn, ornamental gourds) and purple (masks). The use of red sorghum in hair coloring has also been proposed.
- the present invention relates to a method for preparing a coloring composition, in particular a coloring cosmetic composition for coloring keratin fibres, comprising the following steps:
- the first coloring agent comprising an extract of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench comprising at least 2.5% by weight of apigeninidine relative to the total weight of the extract dry ;
- the second coloring agent comprising an extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis comprising less than 0.6% by weight of lawsone and at least 10% by weight of phenolic compounds relative to the total weight dry extract;
- the present invention also relates to coloring compositions, in particular coloring cosmetic compositions for coloring keratin fibres, which can be obtained according to such a method.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for dyeing keratin fibers comprising the application to the keratin fibers of an aqueous composition comprising a dye composition as described herein.
- the present invention relates to a method for preparing a coloring composition, in particular a coloring cosmetic composition for coloring keratin fibres, comprising the following steps:
- the first coloring agent comprising, or consisting of, an extract of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench comprising at least 2.5% by weight of apigeninidine with respect to the weight total dry extract;
- the second coloring agent comprising, or consisting of, an extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis comprising less than 0.6% by weight of lawsone and at least 10% by weight of phenolic compounds relative to the total weight of the dry extract;
- arterial parts means the parts of the plant located above the ground, for example the leaves, the stems, the petioles, the flowers, the seeds and the branches, in particular the leaves, the stems and the seeds or a mixture of these.
- plant extract means a product extracted from a plant, whether the whole plant, aerial parts, underground parts, flowers or fruits, including dried fruits.
- the extraction can consist of a simple pressing or involve the use of a solvent extraction.
- the present invention is part of a desire to set up synthetic routes which are greener and which make it possible to claim the naturalness of the active principles thus obtained.
- the solvent(s) used in the context of the present invention will therefore preferably be natural solvents and/or solvents of natural origin derived from renewable resources, as opposed to fossil resources, these solvents possibly being advantageously obtained by processes eco-friendly.
- the extract from the invention will therefore preferably be a natural extract and/or of natural origin, derived from renewable resources, as opposed to fossil resources.
- the present invention also relates to the coloring compositions, in particular the coloring cosmetic compositions for coloring keratin fibres, obtained by the method of the present invention.
- keratin fibres designates the keratin present in the epidermis and the appendages, such as the skin, the hair, the body hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, more particularly the hair.
- the coloring cosmetic compositions according to the invention have the advantage of intensely coloring the keratin fibres, in particular the hair, using coloring agents derived from plants without altering the keratin fibers and of having good resistance to washing, including after 10 or 15 washes of the keratin fibres.
- colors of a beautiful intensity are obtained with a limited number of dyes derived from plants (typically less than five) thus limiting the risk of allergies.
- the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention make it possible to color keratin fibers quickly and easily.
- the time devoted to coloring is less than two hours or even less than one hour and thirty minutes and only one application is necessary. They offer good coverage of white hair and allow obtaining a homogeneous coloring.
- the dye compositions according to the present invention are preferably in powder form (in dry form).
- a powder according to the invention is a solid product in the form of particles.
- the average particle size of the powders is less than 250 ⁇ m.
- the average particle size of the powders can be between 0.1 ⁇ m and 250 ⁇ m, particularly between 1 ⁇ m and 250 ⁇ m.
- These fine particles can be obtained by grinding. The grinding can be carried out by any suitable means allowing a reduction in size and the obtaining of fine particles as mentioned above.
- a powder according to the invention is a dry and pulverulent product whose humidity level is negligible.
- a powder according to the invention is thus water-soluble or easily water-dispersible, that is to say it can be used to obtain an aqueous or hydroalcoholic liquid composition containing 20 to 60% by weight of dry matter, more particularly between 30 and 50% by weight of dry matter and more particularly still about 40% by weight of dry matter.
- the dry matter thus represents the powder.
- the first and second coloring agents and any additional coloring agents entering into the formulation of the coloring compositions are as described below.
- the percentages by weight given below refer to the total weight of the dry extract considered, unless explicitly stated otherwise.
- the percentages by weight expressed in relation to "the total weight of the dry extract” refer to an extract devoid of extraction solvent or support, or containing only an insignificant trace. Such a dry extract thus contains only material derived from the plant.
- the percentages by weight expressed in relation to "the total weight of the dry standardized extract” refer to a standardized extract devoid of extraction solvent, or containing only insignificant trace amounts.
- the active principles, present in the plant, responsible for the red coloring efficiency are polyphenols of the class of anthocyanins rare in the plant kingdom, in particular derivatives of 3-deoxyanthocyanins but also polyphenols of the class of condensed tannins of proanthocyanidins which polymerize into brown dyes (red phlobaphenes).
- extract of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench useful in the context of the present invention is characterized by a high content of 3-deoxyanthocyanin derivatives (subfamily of anthocyanidins), especially apigenidin. It generally includes luteolinidin in lower levels. 3-deoxyanthocyanins have a strong antioxidant power (AWIKA J.M. - Properties of 3-Deoxyanthocyanins from Sorghum, J. Agric. Food Chem. 2004, 52, 4388-4394).
- the extract of Sorghum bicolor useful in the context of the present invention comprises at least 2.5% by weight of apigeninidine, typically from 3 to 10% or from 5 to 7% by weight of apigeninidine with respect to the weight total dry extract.
- the apigeninidine content of the extracts of Sorghum bicolor can in particular be determined according to the C.L.H.P assay method at 474 nm as described in the experimental section (Method 1).
- the extract of Sorghum bicolor can be characterized more generally by a high content of polyphenols, quite particularly of red dyes of the class of polyphenols, more specifically by a high content of anthocyanins in the form free or glycosylated.
- the content of anthocyanins in free or glycosylated form of the extract of Sorghum bicolor from aerial parts thus typically varies from 5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dry extract. .
- the anthocyanin assay method is that described among others in the European Pharmacopoeia 01/2019:1602.
- the 3-anthocyanins are very particularly present in the extract of Sorghum bicolor, in particular the 3-deoxyanthocyanidins which include apigenidin and luteolinidin.
- the extract of Sorghum bicolor useful in the context of the present invention can also be characterized by a low content of water-soluble compounds, this content of water-soluble compounds varying from 0 to 10% by weight or even from 0 to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of dry extract.
- These water-soluble compounds are devoid of coloring activity on the keratin fibres, and can also inhibit the binding of the compounds responsible for the coloring on the keratin fibres.
- the water-soluble compounds most particularly comprise sugars (total sugars: from 20 to 60% by weight of the water-soluble compounds, typically around 40% by weight) and proteins (from 1 to 10% by weight of the water-soluble compounds, typically around 3% by weight). weight).
- the coloring intensity (CI) of the Sorghum bicolor extract useful in the context of the present invention generally varies from 90 to 200, in particular from 100 to 200.
- the coloring intensity can be determined according to method 2.
- the Sorghum bicolor extract is mixed with an inert carrier.
- the first coloring agent then comprises the extract of Sorghum bicolor and an inert support.
- the inert support may be as described below.
- the mixture of an extract of Sorghum bicolor and an inert support leads to a standardized extract of Sorghum bicolor.
- the expression "standardized extract” designates an extract having a chosen content of at least one of the coloring compounds of the plant extract and/or a given range of coloring intensity. It is usually obtained by adding an inert carrier to the herbal extract in varying amounts depending on the variability from batch to batch of plants, if any.
- the standardized extract of Sorghum bicolor typically consists of 10 to 30% by weight of a carrier and 70 to 90% by weight of the dry extract of Sorghum bicolor relative to the weight of the standardized dry extract of Sorghum bicolor .
- the standardized extract of Sorghum bicolor consists of 20% by weight of a carrier and 80% by weight of the dry extract of Sorghum bicolor.
- the standardized extract of Sorghum bicolor generally comprises, relative to the total weight of standardized dry extract, from 2.4% to 8% by weight of apigeninidine, typically about 5% by weight.
- the standardized extract of Sorghum bicolor generally comprises, relative to the total weight of standardized dry extract, from 4 to 16% by weight of anthocyanins in free or glycosylated form.
- the standardized extract of Sorghum bicolor generally also includes, relative to the total weight of standardized dry extract:
- apigeninidine typically about 5% by weight
- water-soluble compounds typically around 6% by weight
- the water-soluble compounds comprising from 20 to 60% by weight of sugars, typically around 40% by weight of sugar, and from 1 to 10% by weight protein, typically 3% by weight protein.
- the coloring intensity of the standardized extract of Sorghum bicolor generally varies from 90 to 200, in particular from 100 to 200 (method 2).
- the Sorghum bicolor extract can be obtained by solid/liquid extraction of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor, using an organic solvent chosen from alcohols (miscible or immiscible in water), esters, ketones, ethers, chlorinated solvents or mixtures thereof or by means of a hydroalcoholic solution comprising at least 50%, at least 60%, at least 70%, at least 80% or even at least 90% by volume of an alcohol miscible in the 'water.
- an organic solvent chosen from alcohols (miscible or immiscible in water), esters, ketones, ethers, chlorinated solvents or mixtures thereof or by means of a hydroalcoholic solution comprising at least 50%, at least 60%, at least 70%, at least 80% or even at least 90% by volume of an alcohol miscible in the 'water.
- the water-miscible alcohol can be chosen from linear or branched alcohols comprising from one to six carbon atoms.
- Examples of water-miscible alcohols include methanol, ethanol, and ter-butanol.
- the water-miscible alcohol is ethanol.
- the organic solvent is chosen from methanol, ethanol, n-amyl alcohol, ter-butanol, n-butanol, sec-butanol, iso-butanol, dichloromethane, chloroform, methyl isobutyl ketone, diethyl ether, diisopropyl ether, dibutyl ether, methyl tert-butyl ether, (C-i-Ce-alkyl) acetates, such as ethyl acetate, acetate isopropyl, butyl acetate and isoamyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.
- the organic solvent is ethanol.
- the solid/liquid extraction is carried out using a hydroalcoholic solution comprising at least 70%, at least 80% or even at least 90% by volume of a water-miscible alcohol.
- the water-miscible alcohol is preferably ethanol.
- the solid/liquid extraction is carried out using an alcohol, preferably ethanol, having an alcoholic strength varying from 50 to 100, or from 60 to 100, or from 70 to 100, or 80 to 100 or 90 to 100 degrees.
- an alcohol preferably ethanol, having an alcoholic strength varying from 50 to 100, or from 60 to 100, or from 70 to 100, or 80 to 100 or 90 to 100 degrees.
- the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor can be leaves, stems and/or seeds, preferably stems and leaves, fresh or dried, preferably dried, or mixtures thereof.
- the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor are preferably finely ground.
- the solid/liquid extraction comprises a phase of bringing the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor into contact with the extraction solvent, preferably an alcohol, or with the hydroalcoholic solution.
- This contacting step can be carried out according to known methods.
- the contacting can be a maceration (contacting phase maintained at a temperature below the boiling temperature of the extraction solution), a decoction (contacting phase maintained at the boiling temperature of the solution extraction) or leaching (the extraction solution passes through the biomass).
- the extraction can be assisted by extraction aids, such as high pressure (supercritical CO2), microwaves or ultrasound.
- extraction aids such as high pressure (supercritical CO2), microwaves or ultrasound.
- the duration of contacting can vary from 30 minutes to 4 hours, or from 1 hour to 3 hours, generally it is 2 hours.
- the extraction can be carried out at ambient temperature (20-25° C.) or hot, for example at temperatures which can vary from 25° C. to 180° C., at atmospheric or supercritical pressure, with or without agitation.
- a liquid/solid separation is carried out.
- the separation can be carried out by any liquid-solid separation technique known to those skilled in the art, such as filtration, centrifugation or decantation.
- the liquid phase is collected, optionally sterilized by conventional sterilization methods (pasteurization, flash pasteurization, etc.) then concentrated and optionally dried by conventional methods (paddle dryer, vacuum drying, atomization, lyophilization, zeodration, microwaves , etc.) to give an extract of Sorghum bicolor useful in the context of the present invention.
- a carrier can be added after concentration and before possible drying of the extract or after the possible drying step.
- the extraction can be carried out by a process comprising the following steps: a) agitation of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor in an organic solvent chosen from alcohols, esters, ketones, ethers, chlorinated solvents or mixtures thereof or in a hydroalcoholic solution comprising at least 50%, at least 60%, at least 70%, at least 80% or even at least 90% by volume of an alcohol miscible in water, preferably in ethanol or in a hydroalcoholic solution comprising at least 70%, at least 80% or even at least 90% by volume of ethanol; b) liquid/solid separation; c) recovery of the liquid phase; d) concentration of the liquid phase obtained in step c) and elimination of the alcohol; e) possibly drying.
- an organic solvent chosen from alcohols, esters, ketones, ethers, chlorinated solvents or mixtures thereof or in a hydroalcoholic solution comprising at least 50%, at least 60%, at least 70%, at least 80% or even at least 90% by volume of an alcohol miscible in water, preferably in ethanol or in
- the agitation is carried out at a temperature ranging from 20° C. to 25° C. for 1 to 4 hours, preferably 2 hours.
- the extraction is carried out in a ratio (m/v) aerial parts of Sorghum b/co/gold/hydroalcoholic solution ranging from 1/10 to 1/30, typically 1/20.
- the method may comprise a step of adding a support at the end of step d).
- the step of adding a support is then preferably followed by a drying step.
- the addition of a support at the end of step d) can make it possible to standardize the content of at least one of the coloring compounds of the plant extract.
- the content of at least one of the coloring compounds of the plant extract can be fixed by varying the amount of support so as to take into account the variability from one batch of plants to another.
- a standardized extract, dry or not, of Sorghum bicolor is then obtained.
- the support must be inert with respect to the extract and its components: it does not interact with the extract or its components, contributes to its protection and makes it possible to standardize the final content of active extract.
- the support is preferably a natural support and/or of natural origin derived from renewable resources, as opposed to fossil resources, these supports being moreover obtained by methods that respect the environment.
- the carrier must be "cosmetically acceptable", which means that it is generally safe, non-toxic and neither biologically nor otherwise undesirable and that it is acceptable for cosmetic use, in particular by topical application, in particular by topical application on the keratinous fibres, in particular the hair and the scalp. It is typically selected from protein-free carriers.
- the support can in particular be chosen from propanediol, pentanediol, glycerin, propylene glycol, methyl THF and amyl alcohol.
- the carrier is chosen from sugars and polysaccharide derivatives, such as fructose, glucose, sucrose, maltodextrins, cellulose derivatives, starch, in particular corn starch, wheat starch, rice starch, agar-agar, gums, mucilages, polyols such as mannitol, sorbitol, xylitol, etc.
- the support is in particular chosen from fructose, maltodextrins and starch, in particular rice starch.
- the carrier is maltodextrin.
- Drying can be carried out by conventional methods (paddle dryer, vacuum drying, atomization, freeze-drying, zeodration, microwaves, etc.).
- the Sorghum bicolor extract can be ground to give a homogeneous powder, in particular with a particle size of less than 250 ⁇ m.
- the extract of Sorghum bicolor obtained by such a process is characterized by a high content of apigeninidine, that is to say that it comprises at least 2.5% by weight of apigeninidine, typically from 3 to 10% or from 5 to 7% by weight of apigeninidine relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- the extract of Sorghum bicolor may be characterized more generally by a high content of polyphenols, especially red pigments from the class of polyphenols, more specifically by a high content of anthocyanins in free or glycosylated form.
- the content of anthocyanins in free or glycosylated form of the extract of Sorghum bicolor obtained by such a process thus typically varies from 5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 10 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the extract. dry.
- 3-anthocyanins are particularly present, in particular 3-deoxyanthocyanidins which include apigenidin and luteolinidin.
- the Sorghum bicolor extract obtained by such a process is also characterized by a low sugar (total sugar) and protein content.
- the Sorghum bicolor extract obtained by such a process in particular when the extraction is carried out using an alcohol or a hydroalcoholic solution, comprises from 0 to 10% by weight or from 0 to 7% by weight of compounds not soluble in the alcohol used in the extraction process relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- Compounds that are not soluble in alcohol, especially in ethanol, also called water-soluble compounds include very particularly sugars (total sugars: from 20 to 60% by weight of compounds that are not soluble in alcohol) and proteins ( from 1 to 10% by weight of the compounds not soluble in alcohol).
- the “compounds not soluble in alcohol/compounds soluble in alcohol” weight ratio varies from 0 to 1, or from 0 to 0.5. It is usually 0.5.
- the extract of Sorghum bicolor obtained by such a process can be a standardized extract of Sorghum bicolor.
- the extract of Sorghum bicolor obtained by such a process offers a more intense red coloring efficiency (coloring intensity > 90, preferably > 100) than currently available commercial extracts which give unsatisfactory results because of their too weak coloring intensity whatever are the concentrations tested.
- the extraction of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor using an organic solvent as described above or a hydroalcoholic solution as described above allows the elimination of compounds that can inhibit the fixing of the compounds responsible for the coloration on keratin fibres.
- the extract of Sorghum bicolor obtained by such a process in combination with one or more coloring agents derived from dyeing plants, microorganisms or microalgae makes it possible to obtain blonde, coppery, chestnut preferably beautiful dark chestnut colors or mahogany type reflections.
- the extract of Sorghum bicolor obtained by such a process makes it possible to modulate the effects of the coloring, a dose-dependent coloring efficacy being able to be observed with such extracts, unlike the commercial extracts currently available.
- the Sorghum bicolor extract obtained by such a process offers good stability. It is not necessary to add acid-type preservatives. In certain embodiments, an acid can nevertheless be added to any of the steps of the process, for example the liquid phase obtained in step c) can be acidified or the acidification can be carried out at the time of drying.
- solid/liquid extraction process using an organic solvent or an aqueous-alcoholic solution comprising at least 50%, at least 60%, at least 70%, at least 80% or even at least 90 % by volume of an alcohol miscible in water, presently described, can be implemented on other dye cultivars of sorghum, such as dye cultivars which are inedible or cannot be used in cosmetics, leading to the preparation of enriched extracts in red dyes.
- Such extracts can be used in many technical fields. For example, they can be used to color textiles, furniture, textile fibers, wood fibers or to prepare inks (eg for paper or cardboard).
- the present invention relates to the use of an extract of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench or one of its dye cultivars comprising at least 2.5% by weight of apigenidin per relative to the total weight of the dry extract which can be obtained by solid/liquid extraction, by means of an organic solvent chosen from alcohols, esters, ketones, ethers, chlorinated solvents or their mixtures or by means of a hydroalcoholic solution comprising at least 50%, at least 60%, at least 70%, at least 80% or even at least 90% by volume of a water-miscible alcohol, aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench or one of its dye cultivars for coloring keratin fibres, textiles, furniture, textile fibres, wood fibers or for preparing inks (for example for tattooing, paper or cardboard) .
- an organic solvent chosen from alcohols, esters, ketones, ethers, chlorinated solvents or their mixtures
- a hydroalcoholic solution comprising at least 50%, at least 60%
- the extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis useful in the context of the present invention is characterized by a low content of lawsone.
- Lawsone (2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone) is the dye molecule responsible for the coloration typically obtained when powders or extracts of Lawsonia inermis are used to dye keratin fibres.
- the extract of Lawsonia inermis is not used for coloring purposes - due to its low content of lawsone - but for its ability to improve the grip of the extract of aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor and/or any coloring agents entering into the formulation of the coloring hair compositions of the present invention.
- Lawsonia inermis extract comprises less than 0.6%, less than 0.5%, or less than 0.4% by weight, of lawsone relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract comprises 0 to 0.6%, or 0.05 to 0.6%, or 0.1 to 0.5%, or 0.1 to 0 .4% by weight of lawsone relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract comprises about 0.2% by weight of lawsone based on the total weight of the dry extract.
- the lawsone content of Lawsonia inermis extracts can in particular be determined according to the C.L.H.P assay method described in the experimental section (Method 3).
- Lawsonia inermis extract useful in the context of the present invention comprises at least 10% or at least 15% by weight of phenolic compounds relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- Lawsonia inermis extract comprises 10-50% or 10-35% or 15-35% or 15%-30% by weight of phenolic compounds relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- the contents of phenolic compounds are expressed by reference to the pyrogallol content (method 4).
- phenolic compounds designates more particularly phenolic acids (eg gallic acid and the heterosides of such compounds), cinnamic acids (eg coumaric acid and the glycosides of such compounds), tannins (eg hydrolysable tannins, more particularly gallic tannins), phloroglucinol derivatives (eg 2,3,4,6-tetrahydroxyacetophenone, 1,3,6,7 tetrahydroxyxanthone, phloroacetophenone, myrciaphenone A, lalioside, and glycosides of such derivatives such as polygoacetophenoside), napthoquinone derivatives (e.g.
- isonapthazarine and glycosides of such derivatives such as 1,2,4-trihydroxynaphthalen-1-O-glucoside
- flavonoids flavonoids
- apigenin, luteolin, and/or glycosides of such derivatives such as luteolin-4'-O-glucoside, luteolin-7-O-glucoside
- Lawsonia inermis extract useful in the context of the present invention can be characterized by the presence of the following phenolic compounds:
- hydrolysable tannins in particular hydrolysable tannins, more particularly gallic tannins;
- the method for assaying the phenolic compounds has particularly made it possible to demonstrate that the extract of Lawsonia inermis comprises the following phenolic compounds in the amounts indicated, relative to the total weight of the dry extract:
- the Lawsonia inermis extract useful in the context of the present invention comprises a high content of saccharide compounds.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract may comprise at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 65% by weight or at least 70% by weight of saccharide compounds relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract comprises 60 to 80% by weight or 70 to 75% by weight of saccharide compounds relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- saccharide compounds refers to monosaccharides, disaccharides and polysaccharides (eg mucilage).
- the polysaccharides are in the majority by weight, that is to say they constitute more than 50%, more than 60%, more than 70%, more than 80% or more than 90% by weight, of the total weight in saccharide compounds present in the extract.
- Mucilages are plant substances, made up of polysaccharides, or also proteosaccharides, which swell on contact with water, taking on a viscous, sometimes sticky, gelatin-like consistency. Mucilages correspond to compounds with large, more or less branched polymeric structures constructed from several different osidic or uronic acid units (uronic acids are carboxylic acids derived from sugars). They are very hydrophilic and are able to trap water (and other molecules) in their cage-like structures to form a gel. Mucilages can be particularly beneficial for keratin fibers by contributing to their hydration.
- the content of saccharide compounds in Lawsonia inermis extracts can be determined by dinitrosalicylic colorimetric assay (Method 5).
- the second coloring agent is an extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis comprising less than 0.6% by weight of lawsone, at least 10% by weight of phenolic compounds and at least 60% by weight of compounds saccharides relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract useful in the context of the present invention may also comprise at least 2%, at least 3% or at least 4% by weight of organic acids relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract comprises 2 to 8% or 4 to 8% by weight of organic acids based on the total weight of the dry extract.
- the organic acids of the Lawsonia inermis extract include in particular hydroxy acids, that is to say hydrocarbon compounds bearing at least one carboxylic acid function -COOH and at least one alcohol function -OH, advantageously at least one alcohol function is in position alpha of a carboxylic acid function (that is to say carried by a carbon atom adjacent to the carbon atom carrying the carboxylic acid function).
- the organic acids of the extract of Lawsonia inermis are advantageously carboxylic acids whose linear alkyl chain, branched or comprising a cycle, comprises from 4 to 8 or from 4 to 6 carbon atoms.
- the carboxylic acids of Lawsonia inermis extract especially include succinic acid, ascorbic acid, malic acid and combinations thereof.
- Organic acids such as malic acid, succinic acid and ascorbic acid
- enzymatic or spectrophotometric methods known and available to those skilled in the art, in particular by C.L.H.P (Method 8).
- the Lawsonia inermis extract useful in the context of the present invention may also comprise lactones, in an amount generally less than 10% by weight.
- Lawsonia inermis extract useful in the context of the present invention may also comprise compounds of protein nature, such as peptides, amino acids and proteins, in an amount ranging from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- Lawsonia inermis extract useful in the context of the present invention can be characterized in that it comprises one or other of the following compounds, or even all of them (content expressed relative to the total weight of the extract dry) :
- - gallic acid typically at a content ranging from 0.05 to 0.5%, more particularly from 0.1 to 0.3% by weight;
- - luteolin from 0.05 to 0.5%, more particularly from 0.1 to 0.3% by weight;
- - apigenin typically at a content ranging from 0.01 to 0.75%, more particularly from 0.05 to 0.5%, by weight;
- organic acids including malic acid, succinic acid and ascorbic acid.
- Lawsonia inermis extract useful in the context of the present invention can be characterized by the following composition (content expressed relative to the total weight of the dry extract):
- phenolic compounds including:
- saccharide compounds for example from 60 to 80% by weight or from 70 to 75% by weight of saccharide compounds, of which mainly by weight polysaccharides such as mucilage;
- the Lawsonia inermis extract may be in the form of a dry extract, advantageously in the form of a powder, in particular with a particle size of less than 250 ⁇ m
- Lawsonia inermis extract can be obtained by aqueous, hydroalcoholic or alcoholic extraction.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract can be obtained by aqueous or hydroalcoholic extraction of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis.
- the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis can be fresh or dry, preferably dry leaves, twigs or mixtures thereof.
- the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis are preferably finely ground.
- the extraction can be carried out at room temperature (20-25°C) or hot, for example at temperatures which can vary from 25°C to 180°C, at atmospheric or supercritical pressure.
- the extraction is carried out by shaking the ground aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis in the extraction solution for a period varying from 15 minutes to 2 hours, or from 15 minutes to 1 hour, generally for 30 minutes.
- the extraction includes a phase of bringing the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis into contact with the extraction solution.
- the contacting can be a maceration (contacting phase maintained at a temperature below the boiling temperature of the solvent), a decoction (contacting phase maintained at the boiling temperature of the solvent) or leaching (the solvent passes through the biomass).
- the extraction can be assisted by extraction aids, such as high pressure (supercritical CO2), microwaves or ultrasound.
- the extraction solution can be water or a hydroalcoholic solution comprising a water-miscible alcohol, such as ethanol or ter-butanol.
- the hydroalcoholic solution typically comprises 30 to 90% v/v alcohol or 50 to 80% v/v alcohol.
- alcohol such as ethanol, also makes it possible to disinfect and decontaminate the mixture.
- a decontamination and/or sterilization step can be carried out, for example by heating with the injection of steam or by microwave treatment.
- a liquid/solid separation is carried out.
- the separation can be carried out by any liquid-solid separation technique known to those skilled in the art, such as filtration, centrifugation or decantation.
- the liquid phase is collected, sterilized by conventional sterilization methods (pasteurization, flash pasteurization, etc.) then concentrated and possibly dried by conventional methods (paddle dryer, vacuum drying, atomization, lyophilization, zeodration, microwaves, etc.) to give an extract of Lawsonia inermis useful in the context of the present invention.
- the extract of aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis can be obtained by an extraction process comprising the following steps: a) agitation of the aerial parts (e.g.
- Lawsonia inermis in a solution extraction (water or hydroalcoholic solution), typically in a ratio (m/v) aerial parts of Lawsonia/nerm/s/extraction solution ranging from 1/2 to 1/10, preferably from 1/4 to 1 /8, at a temperature ranging from 30° C. to 50° C.; b) liquid/solid separation; c) recovery of the liquid phase; d) concentration of the liquid phase obtained in step c); e) possibly drying; to obtain an extract of Lawsonia inermis.
- a pectinase-like enzyme may be added during step a).
- the extract is nevertheless characterized by a low content of lawsone (less than 0.6%, less than 0.5 %, or less than 0.4% by weight lawsone).
- the Lawsonia inermis extract comprises from 0 to 0.6% or from 0.05 to 0.6%, or from 0.1 to 0.5%, or from 0.1 to 0, 4%, typically about 0.2% by weight, of lawsone relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract obtained by such a process has the characteristics described above.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract can be obtained by a process comprising the following steps: a) maceration of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis in water, carried out at a pH of between 4 and 8, during which the glycosylated derivatives of lawsone, such as the hennosides, initially present in the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis are partially or totally hydrolyzed enzymatically, resulting in the production of an aqueous solution containing lawsone; b) addition of an organic solvent to the aqueous solution obtained at the end of step a), the organic solvent being chosen from linear or branched C4-C12 alcohols and solvents whose miscibility in water is less than 10%, or even less than 5% by weight at 25° C., resulting in the formation of an aqueous phase and an organic phase; c) recovery of the aqueous phase obtained at the end of step b); and d) concentration of the aqueous phase recovered at the end of step c);
- the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis subjected to maceration can be fresh or dry, preferably dry leaves, twigs or mixtures thereof.
- the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis are preferably finely ground.
- Maceration is typically carried out by placing the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis under agitation in a volume of water 2 to 15, or 5 to 15, or 6 to 10 times greater, typically 10 times greater, than the weight of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis for a period generally varying from 15 minutes to 2 hours or from 15 minutes and 1 hour, preferably for about 30 minutes.
- the volume of water used varies from 200 mL to 1500 mL, or from 500 mL to 1500 mL or from 600 to 1000 mL.
- a pectinase type enzyme can be added.
- the maceration is preferably carried out at a temperature ranging from 20 to 60°C or from 20 to 50°C or from 25 to 45°C or from 35 to 45°C.
- the temperature is typically 40°C.
- the maceration is carried out at a pH allowing the functioning of the enzymes catalyzing the hydrolysis of the glycosylated derivatives of lawsone.
- the pH can vary from 5 to 7.5 or from 5.5 to 7.5 or from 6.5 to 7.5.
- the pH is typically around 7. It should be noted that the process does not include any step consisting in varying the pH of the aqueous solution or of the aqueous phase by adding acid or base.
- filtration can be carried out to separate the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis from the aqueous solution containing lawsone or the organic solvent can be added directly to the aqueous solution obtained. In this case, the filtration is carried out before the recovery of the aqueous phase.
- the volume of organic solvent added is such that the organic solvent/water volume ratio varies from 0.25 to 2 or from 0.5 to 2 or from 0.8 to 1.5 or from 1 to 1.3.
- the organic solvent is a linear or branched C4-C8 alcohol, for example n-butanol, sec-butanol, iso-butanol, and mixtures thereof.
- the organic solvent is n-butanol.
- the organic solvent is chosen from C1-Ce alcohols, chlorinated solvents, ketones, ethers, esters and their mixtures which satisfy the following criteria:
- the miscibility of water in the organic solvent is less than 10%, or even 5% by weight at 25°C
- - the miscibility of the organic solvent in water is less than 10%, or even 5% by weight at 25°C.
- solvents examples include n-amyl alcohol, dichloromethane, chloroform, methyl isobutyl ketone, diethyl ether, diisopropyl ether, dibutyl ether, methyl tert-butyl ether, (Ci-Cs)alkyl acetates , such as ethyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, butyl acetate and isoamyl acetate, and mixtures thereof.
- the organic solvent is a (Ci-C6)alkyl acetate or a mixture of (Ci-Ce)alkyl acetates, preferably ethyl acetate, isopropyl acetate, butyl, isoamyl acetate or mixtures thereof. Particularly preferably, it is isopropyl acetate.
- the whole is stirred for a period ranging from 15 minutes to 2 hours or from 15 minutes to 1 hour. Typically, the whole is stirred for 30 minutes.
- the aqueous phase is then recovered and concentrated to give an extract of Lawsonia inermis low in lawsone.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract obtained can be dried by conventional methods (e.g. paddle dryer, vacuum drying, atomization, microwave, zeodration or lyophilization).
- the method may further comprise a decontamination and/or sterilization step between steps c) and d).
- the decontamination and/or sterilization step can be carried out, for example by heating with the injection of steam or by microwave treatment.
- the additional coloring agents which can enter into the formulation of the coloring compositions, in particular the coloring cosmetic compositions, of the present invention include the coloring agents derived from dyeing plants, from microorganisms or from microalgae.
- the coloring agent is in dry form, advantageously in powder form, in particular with a particle size of less than 250 ⁇ m.
- the coloring agent can be a powder of dyeing plants or an extract of dyeing plants.
- a tinctorial plant powder differs from a tinctorial plant extract in that the plant powder is obtained by mechanical grinding of the whole plant, the aerial parts, the underground parts, the flowers or the fruits.
- the extract is most often an aqueous extract or a hydroalcoholic or alcoholic extract. It is understood that when the coloring agent is an extract of tinctorial plants, this plant extract is different from the extracts of Sorghum bicolore and Lawsonia inermis described above.
- the coloring agent may be a powder or a plant extract chosen from Lawsonia inermis, indigo plants, plants which are sources of red pigment, plants which are sources of red or violet to black pigment, plants which are sources of yellow pigment, plants red to bluish green pigment sources, tannin source plants, brown pigment source plants and combinations thereof.
- the coloring agent is an extract of Lawsonia inermis
- the extract is different from the extract of Lawsonia inermis (poor in lawsone) described above.
- the extract is then characterized by a high content of lawsone.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract which can be combined with the first and the second plant extract comprises from 7 to 60%, from 10 to 50%, or from 15 to 40% by weight of lawsone relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- Such an extract is referred to below as “Lawsonia inermis extract rich in lawsone”.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract rich in lawsone is used for coloring purposes - due to its high content of lawsone-.
- Lawsonia inermis extract rich in lawsone can be obtained by a process comprising the following steps: a) maceration of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis in water, carried out at a pH between 4 and 8, during which the glycosylated derivatives of lawsone, such as the hennosides, initially present in the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis are partially or totally hydrolyzed enzymatically, resulting in the production of an aqueous solution containing lawsone; b) addition of an organic solvent to the aqueous solution obtained at the end of step a), the organic solvent being chosen from linear or branched C4-C12 alcohols and solvents in which the miscibility of water is less than 10%, or even less than 5% by weight at 25° C., resulting in the
- the process steps may be as described for the process for the preparation of the Lawsonia inermis extract low in lawsone.
- this process makes it possible to obtain an extract rich in lawsone comprising more than 50% or more than 60% or even more than 70% by weight of the lawsone initially present in the free form or in the form of glycosylated derivatives of lawsone, such as hennosides, in the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis.
- the method may comprise a step of adding a support between steps c) and d).
- the support is preferably as described above in connection with the preparation of the extracts of Sorghum bicolor.
- Step d) is then preferentially followed by a drying step leading to the production of a dry extract of Lawsonia inermis.
- the extract can thus be a standardized extract.
- the dry extract of standardized Lawsonia inermis comprises a lawsone content ranging from 0.6% to 1.4% or from 1 to 1.3%, in particular a content of approximately 1.3% by weight of lawsone relative to the total weight of the standardized dry extract.
- the method further includes a pigment extraction step, also called a bleaching step.
- the pigments extracted during said bleaching step are in particular chlorophylls.
- lawsone is not one of the pigments that the bleaching step aims to eliminate.
- the pigment extraction step can in particular be carried out using an organic solvent.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract rich in lawsone obtained by such a process comprises from 1% to 40% or from 2% to 30% by weight of phenolic compounds relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- the phenolic compounds present in the extract especially include luteolin (flavonoid), apigenin (flavonoid) and 2,3,4,6-tetrahydroxyacetophenone.
- the lawsone-rich extract may also include 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone and/or 1,2-dihydroxy-4-O-glycosyloxynaphthalene.
- the extract rich in lawsone can also be characterized by the presence of luteolin, apigenin and 2,3,4,6-tetrahydroxyacetophenone, and possibly by the presence of 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone and/or 1,2-dihydroxy-4-O-glycosyloxynaphthalene.
- Lawsonia inermis extract rich in lawsone may include other phenolic compounds, such as coumaric acid, in particular para-coumaric acid, 1,2-dihydroxy-4-O-glycosyloxynaphthalene, gallic, other flavonoids, such as catechin, 3',4',5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone, 3',5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methylflavone and/or glycosides of such compounds, such as lalioside, myrciaphenone A, 1,2-dihydroxy-4-O-glycosyloxynaphthalene (also called 4-0-0-D-glucopyranoside), luteolin-4'-O-glucoside, apigenin-7-OP -glucoside, luteolin-3'-O-glucoside, apigenin-4'-OP-glucoside and luteolin-6-C-neohesperidoside.
- coumaric acid in particular para-coumaric acid
- the extract contains gallic acid, coumaric acid, in particular para-coumaric acid; flavonoids, such as catechin, 3',4',5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanone, 3',5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methylflavone; and/or the glycosides of such compounds, such as lalioside, myrciaphenone A, 1,2-dihydroxy-4-O-glycosyloxynaphthalene, luteolin-4'-O-glucoside, apigenin-7-OP-glucoside , luteolin-3'-O-glucoside, apigenin-4'-OP-glucoside and luteolin-6-C-neohesperidoside.
- the extract contains coumaric acid and/or glycosilated luteolin, in particular luteolin-6-C-neohesperidoside.
- Flavonoids such as luteolin and apigenin, exhibit interesting biological properties, such as free radical scavenging and antioxidant effects [Romanov et al., Neoplasma 2001, 48(2), 104-107] as well as anti-inflammatory activity. Combined with their UV absorption capacity, these effects enable them to provide protection against UV radiation and thus play a photoprotective role for the hair [Saewan et al., JAPS 2013, 3(9), 129-141] ,
- apigenin has been shown to promote hair growth [Huh et al. Arch. Dermatol. Res., 2009, 301, 381-385],
- Polyphenols such as 2,3,4,6-tetrahydroxyacetophenone, and phenolic acids, such as para-coumaric acid, also exhibit antioxidant and photoprotective properties [Nichols et al., Arch. Dermatol. Res. 2010, 302, 71-83],
- the dosage of the phenolic compounds can in particular be carried out by spectrophotometry, according to the method described in the experimental section (Method 4).
- Lawsonia inermis extract rich in lawsone may also include sterols, such as P-sitosterol, triterpenes, such as lupeol.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract rich in lawsone also comprises less than 2%, less than 1.5% or less than 1% by weight of proteins, peptides or amino acids relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- the extract comprises from 0 to 1% or from 0.1 to 1% by weight of proteins, peptides or amino acids relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- the determination of free amino acids, peptides and proteins can in particular be carried out by ninhydrin spectrophotometry, according to the method described in the experimental section (Method 6).
- Lawsonia inermis extract rich in lawsone also includes chlorophylls, in particular chlorophyll a and/or chlorophyll b.
- the chlorophyll content is less than 25% or less than 20% or less than 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract comprises less than 5% or less than 2% by weight of chlorophylls, relative to the total weight of the dry extract, or even does not comprise any chlorophylls.
- the dosage of chlorophylls can in particular be carried out by weight dosage, according to the method described in the experimental section (Method 7).
- Lawsonia inermis extract rich in lawsone contains less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dry extract, of saccharide compounds.
- the Lawsonia inermis extract comprises 0.1 to 5% or 0.5 to 5% by weight of saccharide compounds relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- the content of saccharide compounds can in particular be determined by colorimetric assay with dinitrosalicylic acid (Method 5).
- the Lawsonia inermis extract rich in lawsone may be in the form of a dry extract, advantageously in the form of a powder, in particular with a particle size of less than 250 ⁇ m.
- the coloring agent derived from plants is a standardized dry extract of Lawsonia inermis rich in lawsone.
- the standardized dry extract consists of a support and an extract of Lawsonia inermis rich in lawsone obtained according to the process described above.
- the standardized dry extract of Lawsonia inermis rich in lawsone comprises from 0.6 and 1.4% or from 1.3% to 1.3%, in particular approximately 1.3% by weight of lawsone relative to the total weight of the standardized dry extract, luteolin, apigenin and 2,3,4,6-tetrahydroxyacetophenone. It may also contain coumaric acid, in particular para-coumaric acid. It may additionally contain glycosilated luteolin, in particular luteolin-6-C-neohesperidoside. It may additionally contain 3,4,5-trihydroxyacetophenone and/or 1,2-dihydroxy-4-O-glycosyloxynaphthalene.
- the standardized dry extract of Lawsonia inermis typically includes (content expressed in relation to the total weight of the standardized dry extract):
- proteins, peptides or amino acids advantageously from 0 to 0.2% by weight, advantageously from 0.1 to 0.2% by weight, of proteins, peptides or amino acids ;
- saccharide compounds advantageously from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, advantageously from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, of saccharide compounds;
- the standardized extract is in the form of a dry extract, advantageously in the form of a powder, in particular with a particle size of less than 250 ⁇ m.
- the coloring agent then typically comprises indirubin and/or leuco-indigo.
- the coloring agent from an indigo plant can be:
- an extract of indigo leaves in particular an aqueous or hydroalcoholic or alcoholic extract, or a powder of indigo leaves;
- an extract of knotweed leaves in particular an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic extract, or a powder of knotweed leaves;
- an extract of dyers' pastel leaves in particular an aqueous or hydroalcoholic or alcoholic extract, or a powder of dyers' pastel leaves;
- an extract of flowers and/or fruits of Couroupita guianensis in particular an aqueous or hydroalcoholic or alcoholic extract, or a powder of flowers and/or fruits of Couroupita guianensis;
- a wild indigo whole plant extract in particular an aqueous or hydroalcoholic or alcoholic extract, or a wild indigo whole plant powder;
- an extract of the whole plant of dyers' croton in particular an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic extract, or a powder of the whole plant of dyers'croton
- a whole plant extract of laurel dyers in particular an aqueous or hydroalcoholic or alcoholic extract, or a powder of whole plant laurel dyers
- an extract of liana-indigo leaves in particular an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic extract, or a powder of liana-indigo leaves;
- an extract of L. laxiflorus leaves in particular an aqueous or hydroalcoholic or alcoholic extract, or a powder of L. laxiflorus leaves;
- Source plants of red pigment can be chosen from sorghum, hibiscus and their combinations.
- the coloring agent then typically comprises anthocyanins.
- the coloring agent from a plant source of red pigment can be:
- aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of flowers in particular dried flowers (karkanature), of hibiscus or a powder of flowers, in particular dried flowers (karkanature), of hibiscus.
- a plant source of red or purple to black pigment can be logwood.
- the coloring agent derived from a plant source of red or purple to black pigment may be an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of logwood, in particular logwood heartwood, or a powder of logwood, in particular logwood heartwood.
- Source plants for yellow pigment can be selected from gardenia, turmeric, saffron, birch, chamomile, reseda and combinations thereof.
- the coloring agent then typically comprises crocins.
- the coloring agent from a plant source of yellow pigment can be:
- a coloring agent can for example be a Gardenia extract as described in the document WO2018162760.
- the Gardenia extract or powder contains a mass fraction of crocins ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 1 to 5%, relative to the total weight of the dry extract or dry powder;
- Source plants of red to bluish-green pigment can be chosen from elderberry, blueberry, aronia and their combinations.
- the coloring agent from a pigment-source plant can be:
- the source plants of tannins can be chosen from chestnut, Emblica officinalis, pomegranate and their combinations.
- the plants that are sources of tannins make it possible to darken the color, in particular towards gray to dark brown hues.
- the coloring agent then typically comprises tannins.
- the coloring agent from a plant source of tannins can be:
- an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of fruits in particular the pericarp, of pomegranate or a powder of fruits, in particular the pericarp, of pomegranate.
- the plant source of brown pigment can be the rhapontic.
- the coloring agent from a plant source of brown pigment can be an aqueous or hydroalcoholic extract of rhapontic roots or a powder of rhapontic roots (in Anglo-Saxon: Rheum rhapontica root powder).
- the coloring composition does not include dodder extract or multiflower knotweed extract.
- All the extracts and powders mentioned above can benefit from the designation "BIO”, that is to say that they can be prepared from raw materials certified in organic farming and that their preparation does not involve a step of chemical synthesis. They can be obtained by eco-responsible processes. They can also benefit from the designation “Vegan”.
- the coloring agent can also be obtained by semi-synthetic or synthetic methods.
- the coloring agent can be chlorophyllin.
- Chlorophyllin is a source of green pigment.
- Chlorophyllin can be obtained by extraction according to a semi-synthetic process involving a step of saponification of chlorophyll.
- Plant sources of chlorophyll can be chosen from alfalfa, white mulberry, nettle, algae, and combinations thereof.
- Chlorophyll can be extracted:
- alfalfa aerial parts of alfalfa with an organic solvent such as acetone, alcohols, alkanes (hexane, heptane) or supercritical CO2;
- organic solvent such as acetone, alcohols, alkanes (hexane, heptane) or supercritical CO2;
- algae thallus with an organic solvent such as acetone, alcohols, alkanes (hexane, heptane) or supercritical CO2.
- organic solvent such as acetone, alcohols, alkanes (hexane, heptane) or supercritical CO2.
- the coloring compositions in particular the coloring cosmetic compositions for coloring keratin fibres, comprise:
- the first coloring agent comprising, or consisting of, an extract of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench comprising at least 2.5% by weight of apigeninidine relative to the total weight of the 'dry extract ;
- the second coloring agent comprising, or consisting of, an extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis comprising less than 0.6% by weight of lawsone, at least 10% by weight of phenolic compounds relative to the total weight of dry extract;
- the coloring compositions in particular the coloring cosmetic compositions for coloring keratin fibres, comprise:
- the first coloring agent being a standardized extract, the standardized extract comprising an extract of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench comprising at least 2.5% by weight of apigenidin relative to the total weight of dry extract;
- the second coloring agent being an extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis comprising less than 0.6% by weight of lawsone, at least 10% by weight of phenolic compounds relative to the total weight of the dry extract ;
- additional coloring agents from dyeing plants, microorganisms or microalgae, the additional coloring agent being different from the first and second coloring agents.
- the extract of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L) Moench, standardized or not, and the extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis can be obtained by the methods described above.
- the coloring compositions in particular the coloring cosmetic compositions for coloring keratin fibres, comprise:
- the first coloring agent being a standardized extract of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench comprising from 2.4% to 8% by weight of apigeninidine relative to the total weight of the extract standardized dry;
- the second coloring agent being an extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis comprising less than 0.6% by weight of lawsone, at least 10% by weight of phenolic compounds relative to the total weight of the dry extract ;
- additional coloring agents from dyeing plants, microorganisms or microalgae, the additional coloring agent being different from the first and second coloring agents.
- the extract of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench, standardized or not, and the extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis can be obtained by the methods described above.
- the coloring compositions in particular the coloring cosmetic compositions, of the present invention comprise an extract of aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench which can be obtained by an extraction process comprising the following steps : a) agitation of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench in an organic solvent chosen from alcohols, esters, ketones, ethers, chlorinated solvents or mixtures thereof or in a hydroalcoholic solution comprising at least 50%, at at least 60%, at least 70%, at least 80% or even at least 90% by volume of an alcohol miscible in water, preferably in ethanol or in a hydroalcoholic solution comprising at least 70%, at least 80% or even at least 90% by volume of ethanol; b) liquid/solid separation; c) recovery of the liquid phase; d) concentration of the liquid phase obtained in step c) and elimination of the alcohol; e) possibly drying.
- an organic solvent chosen from alcohols, esters, ketones, ethers, chlorinated solvents or mixtures thereof or in a hydroalcoholic
- the coloring compositions in particular the coloring cosmetic compositions of the present invention, comprise a standardized extract of aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench obtainable by a process comprising the following steps: a ) agitation of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench in an organic solvent or an aqueous-alcoholic solution comprising at least 70%, at least 80% or even at least 90% by volume of a water-miscible alcohol, preferably at least 70%, at least 80% or even at least 90% by volume of alcohol; b) liquid/solid separation; c) recovery of the liquid phase; d) concentration of the liquid phase obtained in step c) and elimination of the alcohol; e) addition of a carrier as described above; and f) drying.
- a standardized extract of aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench obtainable by a process comprising the following steps: a ) agitation of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench in an organic solvent or
- the coloring compositions in particular the coloring cosmetic compositions, of the present invention may comprise an extract of aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis which can be obtained by an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or alcoholic extraction process.
- the coloring compositions in particular the coloring cosmetic compositions, of the present invention comprise an extract of aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis which can be obtained by an extraction process comprising the following steps: a) agitation of the aerial parts (eg crushed leaves) of Lawsonia inermis in an extraction solution (water or hydroalcoholic solution), typically in a ratio (m/v) aerial parts of Lawsonia /nerm/s/extraction solution ranging from 1/2 to 1/10, preferably from 1/4 to 1/8, at a temperature ranging from 30°C to 50° VS ; b) liquid/solid separation; c) recovery of the liquid phase; d) concentration of the liquid phase obtained in step c); e) possibly drying.
- an extraction process comprising the following steps: a) agitation of the aerial parts (eg crushed leaves) of Lawsonia inermis in an extraction solution (water or hydroalcoholic solution), typically in a ratio (m/v) aerial parts of Lawsonia /nerm/s/extraction solution ranging from 1/2 to 1/10
- the coloring compositions in particular the coloring cosmetic compositions, of the present invention comprise an extract of aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis which can be obtained by an extraction process comprising the following steps: a) maceration of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis in water, carried out at a pH between 4 and 8, during which the glycosylated derivatives of lawsone, such as hennosides, initially present in the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis are partially or totally hydrolyzed enzymatically, resulting in the production of an aqueous solution containing lawsone; b) addition of an organic solvent to the aqueous solution obtained at the end of step a), the organic solvent being chosen from linear or branched C4-C12 alcohols and solvents whose miscibility in water is less than 10%, or even less than 5% by weight at 25° C., resulting in the formation of an aqueous phase and an organic phase; c) recovery of the aqueous phase obtained at the end of step b);
- the coloring compositions in particular the coloring cosmetic compositions for coloring keratin fibers, comprise, relative to the total weight of the dry compositions:
- first coloring agent comprising, or consisting in, an extract of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench comprising at least 2.5% by weight of apigeninidine relative to the total weight of the dry extract;
- the second coloring agent comprising, or consisting of, an extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis comprising less than 0.6% by weight of lawsone and at least 10% by weight of phenolic compounds, and generally at least 60% by weight of saccharide compounds relative to the total weight of the dry extract; - from 5 to 90%, in particular from 10 to 50% or from 50% to 90%, of one or more additional coloring agents derived from plants, the additional coloring agent being different from the first and second coloring agents.
- the cosmetic compositions are in powder form (in dry form).
- the coloring compositions in particular the cosmetic compositions for coloring keratin fibres, comprise, relative to the total weight of the dry compositions:
- a first coloring agent - from 5 to 90%, in particular from 10 to 50% and preferably from 10% to 30%, or from 50% to 90%, by weight, of a first coloring agent, the first coloring agent being an extract standardized, the standardized extract comprising an extract of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench comprising at least 2.5% by weight of apigenidin relative to the total weight of the dry extract;
- the second coloring agent being an extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis comprising less than 0 6% by weight of lawsone and at least 10% by weight of phenolic compounds, generally at least 60% by weight of saccharide compounds relative to the total weight of the dry extract;
- coloring agent derived from dyeing plants, microorganisms or microalgae, the coloring agent additional being different from the first and second coloring agents.
- the coloring compositions in particular the cosmetic compositions for coloring keratin fibers comprise, relative to the total weight of the dry compositions:
- first coloring agent being a standardized extract aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L) Moench comprising from 2.4% to 8% by weight of apigenidin relative to the total weight of the standardized dry extract;
- the second coloring agent being an extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis comprising less than 0 6% by weight of lawsone and at least 10% by weight of phenolic compounds, generally at least 60% by weight of saccharide compounds relative to the total weight of the dry extract; - from 5 to 90%, in particular from 10 to 50% or from 50% to 90%, by weight of one or more additional coloring agents derived from dye plants, micro-organisms or micro-algae, the agent additional coloring agent being different from the first and second coloring agents.
- the support may be as described above.
- the coloring agents derived from dyeing plants, microorganisms or microalgae can be as described above.
- the cosmetic composition comprises a maximum of five additional coloring agents, preferably a maximum of two additional coloring agents or even a single additional coloring agent. This limited number limits the risks of intolerance and incompatibilities.
- the additional coloring agent is a Lawsonia inermis extract rich in lawsone as described above.
- the coloring agent is a standardized dry extract of Lawsonia inermis as described above.
- the additional coloring agent is derived from an indigo plant as described above. More particularly, the additional coloring agent can be an extract of indigo leaves, in particular an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic extract, or a powder of indigo leaves.
- the coloring hair compositions comprising extracts of Sorghum bicolor and Lawsonia inermis as described above and a coloring agent derived from an indigo plant make it possible to obtain colorations with intense mahogany reflections but also dark chestnut or even blond or copper colors .
- the cosmetic compositions can also comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.
- Cosmetically acceptable excipient denotes ingredients suitable for the formulation of cosmetic compositions of the cream, lotion, shampoo, emulsion type or any formulation suitable for application to keratin fibres, in particular the hair and the scalp.
- cosmetically acceptable excipients include, without limitation, surfactants, thickeners, acidity correctors (e.g. citric acid, acetic acid, sodium, calcium or potassium carbonates and bicarbonates), texture agents and /or touch (e.g.
- the composition may include at least one acidity corrector, advantageously chosen from organic acids, in particular citric acid, acetic acid, carbonates and bicarbonates, in particular sodium, calcium or potassium bicarbonate.
- the cosmetic compositions can also comprise an agent which promotes the adhesion of the dyes to the keratin fibers (eg Cassia (neutral henna), Aloe vera, inulin).
- an agent which promotes the adhesion of the dyes to the keratin fibers eg Cassia (neutral henna), Aloe vera, inulin.
- compositions can be formulated in various forms suitable for topical administration.
- formulation suitable for topical administration include creams, emulsions, milks, ointments, lotions, oils, aqueous, hydroalcoholic or glycolic solutions, powders, sprays, shampoos.
- the sum of the percentages of the first coloring agent, second coloring agent and additional coloring agents may be equal to 100.
- the composition may additionally comprise one or more excipients cosmetically acceptable, the proportion of these cosmetically acceptable agents then making it possible to reach 100% by weight.
- the invention also relates to a kit, or combination product, comprising the following components: a component comprising a mixture of an extract of aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis and of at least one bicolor Sorghum extract and a component comprising at least a cosmetically acceptable excipient.
- This excipient may be as defined above for the cosmetic composition, and in particular be chosen from the group comprising a texture and/or feel agent, an acidity corrector and mixtures thereof.
- the component comprising a combination of an extract of aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis and at least one extract of Sorghum bicolores!. advantageously in dry form, in particular powder.
- the component is a hair care product chosen from the group comprising shampoo, conditioner, hair balm, hair lotion, hair cream, etc.
- the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for dyeing keratin fibers comprising the application to the keratin fibers of an aqueous composition comprising a dye composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for dyeing keratin fibers as described above.
- the cosmetic coloring method includes the following steps: a) supply of a coloring composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for coloring keratin fibers as described above, in particular in dry form, in particular in powder form; b) preparation of an aqueous composition by adding water to the dye composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for dyeing keratin fibers, at a temperature ranging from 20 to 98° C.; c) application of the aqueous composition to the keratin fibres; d) optional heating of the keratin fibres; e) rinsing.
- Steps c) and e) can be repeated. Generally, steps c) and e) are not repeated.
- composition according to the invention could suffice for hair coloring of an adult head.
- a natural coloring comprising a powder or a plant extract
- step a) less than 50 g of powder of the composition according to the invention is advantageously provided, more advantageously less than 30 g, even more advantageously less than 25 g, for example from 15 g to 30 g, preferably 15 g to 25 g, more preferably about 20 g.
- step b) water is advantageously added in sufficient quantity to prepare a composition of 100 g or 150 g.
- the water added can be room temperature water (tap water) or hot water (heated tap water).
- the temperature of the hot water can be at least 50° C., advantageously at least 70° C., or even at least 90° C., as easily obtained in a kettle.
- aqueous composition 100 g or 150 g are sufficient to obtain a preparation which can be applied to the head.
- the composition obtained has a pleasant galenic, which does not have the very thick and unpleasant appearance, "poultice", of the known natural colorings.
- the composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres.
- the application can be carried out as in the chemical hair coloring methods, with in particular an exposure time step before the rinsing step.
- the exposure time step also comprises a heating step, in particular to a temperature between 25°C and 65°C, advantageously between 30°C and 60°C, in particular 55°C or at particularly 35°C.
- the exposure time step can be carried out at ambient temperature, ranging in particular from 20° C. to 30° C., without additional heat input and thus without a heating step.
- a short exposure time is respected, that is to say an exposure time of less than 1 hour, preferably less than 45 minutes.
- the cosmetic composition can be a ready-to-use composition or it can be prepared at the time of the implementation of the method by mixing the first coloring agent, second coloring agent and possible coloring agents additional.
- Another advantage of the method according to the invention, and of the composition according to the invention, is that the coloration obtained, in particular on keratin fibers such as the hair, is maintained despite repeated washings.
- the colored keratin fibers do not exhibit a reduction in shine of more than 8 units, advantageously not more than 6 units, more advantageously not more than 5 units, even more advantageously not more than 4 units, even more advantageously no more than 3 units, following 10, advantageously 15, post-staining washes, brightness evaluated by measuring the dE* parameter, according to the protocol described in the examples.
- the cosmetic method for coloring keratin fibres comprises the following steps: a.1) Providing one of a first coloring agent as described above, optionally with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient as defined previously, in particular in dry form, in particular in powder form; b.1) Prepare an aqueous composition, by adding to the powder of step a.1) an aqueous composition, in particular water, at a temperature between 20° C. and 98° C.
- step c.1) Applying the composition of step b.1) to keratin fibers, optionally by heating the fibers thus treated; d.1) Rinse; a.2) Providing a second coloring agent as described above, optionally with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient as defined previously, in particular in dry form, in particular in powder form; b.2) Prepare an aqueous composition, by adding to the powder from step a.2) an aqueous composition, in particular water, at a temperature between 20° C. and 98° C.
- step b.2) Applying the composition of step b.2) to keratin fibers, optionally by heating the fibers thus treated; d.2) Rinse; e) Optionally, but not preferably, repeating steps c.1) and d.1) and/or c.2) and d.2).
- the cosmetic method for coloring keratin fibres comprises the following steps: a.1) Providing a second coloring agent as described above, optionally with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient as defined above, in particular in dry form, in particular in powder form; b.1) Prepare an aqueous composition, by adding to the powder of step a.1) an aqueous composition, in particular water, at a temperature between 20°C and 98°C and mixing; c.1) Applying the composition of step b.1) to keratin fibres, optionally by heating the fibers thus treated; d.1) Rinse; a.2) Providing a first coloring agent as described above, optionally with at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient as defined previously, in particular in dry form, in particular in powder form; b.2) Prepare an aqueous composition, by adding to the powder from step a.2) an aqueous composition, in particular water, at a temperature between 20° C.
- step b.2) Applying the composition of step b.2) to keratin fibres, optionally by heating the fibers thus treated; d.2) Rinse; e) Optionally, but not preferably, repeating steps c.1) and d.1) and/or c.2) and d.2).
- Solvent B methanol + 1% formic acid
- the chromatograms of the control and test solutions show a characteristic and identical spectrum peak; the control peak (Area AT) corresponds in retention time and in spectrum to the main peak of the test (Area Ae).
- the coloring intensity corresponds to the absorption maximum at 480 nm ( ⁇ 5 nm) of a 1 g % mL extract solution.
- This method can be applied for:
- leaf powders Use 50 g of leaf powder as is.
- Test solution A (dosage of the lawsone present in an extract): Dissolve 50 mg of extract in 100 mL of methanol/water 1/1. Dissolve with ultrasound. Filtration on Acrodisc GFGHP. Inject 10 ⁇ L.
- Test solution B (determination of total lawsone): In a volumetric flask, introduce 80 mg of leaf powder. Add in 50 mL of H2SO42N. Heat at 97°C for 30 min. Let cool. Add methanol q.s.p. 100mL. Filter the solution through Acrodisc GF GHP 0.45 ⁇ m. Inject 10 ⁇ L of the filtrate.
- Test solution C (dosage of the lawsone formed by the enzymes): In a volumetric flask, introduce 80 mg of leaf powder. Add to 50 mL of deionized water. Place in an ultrasonic bath for 30 min between 30 and 40°C. Let cool. Add methanol q.s.p. 100mL. Filter the solution through Acrodisc GF GHP 0.45 ⁇ m. Inject 10 ⁇ L of the filtrate.
- the content of phenolic compounds in the extract can be assessed by spectrophotometry according to the method of the European Pharmacopoeia, version 9.0, 2.8.14.
- the solutions to be tested are prepared by dissolving 25 mg of extract in 100 mL of water.
- the content of phenolic compounds is expressed with reference to pyrogallol.
- Luteolin and apigenin were especially titrated by analytical HPLC carried out with a C18 column (XBridge 100 C18; 3.5 mm, 150 mm x 4.6 mm) under conditions gradient (see below) with H2O! 0.1% trifluoroacetic acid (A) and acetonitrile / 0.1% trifluoroacetic acid (B) as eluent:
- UV detection is at 340 nm for apigenin and 310.
- the flow rate was 1 mL/min and the temperature 40°C. Pure luteolin, apigenin and p-coumarin were used for calibration.
- DNS reagent Dissolve 30 g of sodium potassium ditartrate in 50 ml of water. Add 20 mL of 2N soda. Dissolve 1 g of dinitrosalicylic acid (DNS) by heating slightly. Make up to 100 mL with water.
- NDS dinitrosalicylic acid
- TSRT total saccharide compounds
- the dosage of free amino acids and proteins can be carried out before or after hydrolysis by Ninhydrin spectrophotometry. The results are expressed as a percentage of amino acids relative to asparagine.
- Hydrochloric acid 6N Dilute to 1/2 of concentrated hydrochloric acid (36%).
- Diluent Mix 100 ml of 1-propanol with 100 ml of water.
- Preparation of the standard range Dissolve 17 mg of asparagine in 100 ml of water.
- Preparation of test solutions Weigh approximately 30 to 200 mg of extract depending on the sample to be analyzed (pei) in a screw tube, add 2 ml of 6N HCl. Close hermetically then place for about 16 hours at 110°C. Neutralize with 3N sodium hydroxide (methyl red color change) then adjust to 20 ml with water.
- the chlorophyll content in the extract can be evaluated by the weight obtained after washing the extract with heptane.
- the extract is taken up in 10 volumes of methanol. After stirring for 15 min, the solution is filtered. The supernatant is dried and constitutes the fraction containing the chlorophylls.
- Control solution Weigh 10 mg of control and dissolve in 20 mL of water. Perform the 1/5th, 1/10th and 1/20th dilutions.
- Test solution Weigh 250 mg of analyte into a 20 mL volumetric flask. Complete with water - Ultrasound if necessary.
- the cookie retention times are:
- the staying power of a coloring composition according to the invention is evaluated by comparison with the staying power of a control composition (eg composition of the prior art).
- the evaluated parameter is a derivative of L*a*b, ie the color difference (dE*).
- L1*, a-i*, bi* are the coordinates in the CIE LAB colorimetric space established in 1976 by the international commission on illumination of the first color to be compared and L2*, a2*, b2* those of the second.
- Example 1 preparation of an extract of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench
- This mixture is stirred for 2 hours at room temperature.
- the concentrate is then dried by lyophilization and the lyophilisate is finally ground to deliver a powder whose particle size is less than 250 ⁇ m.
- the dry product thus obtained corresponds to the dry extract of Sorghum bicolor used in the context of the present invention and comprises 5% of apigeninidine by weight relative to the total weight of the dry extract.
- the coloring intensity of this extract is between 100 and 200.
- Example 2 preparation of a standardized extract of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench
- This mixture is stirred for 2 hours at room temperature.
- the dry product thus obtained corresponds to the standardized dry extract of Soghum bicolor according to the invention and comprises 3-4.5% of apigenidin.
- the coloring intensity of this standardized extract is between 100 and 200.
- Example 3 coloring efficacy on locks of hair of an extract of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench
- Each concentration is applied with a brush all along the lock of hair. Then the wick is placed at 50° C. for 50 minutes. The lock is then rinsed with hot water and the color intensity is measured.
- the extract thus obtained comprises 0.4% lawsone, % expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the dry extract. extract preparation rich in lawsone
- the plant contains 1.5 g of lawsone / 100 g dry plant.
- the upper isopropyl acetate phase contains 80.7% of the lawsone potential present in the plant.
- Henna dry extract contains 30.2% by weight of lawsone, i.e. 71% of lawsone present in the plant.
- the quantity of lawsone in the ethyl acetate phase is determined by C.L.H.P and maltodextrin is added in sufficient quantity to obtain a mixture comprising 1.3% by weight of lawsone, which is then freeze-dried.
- the dry extract of Lawsonia inermis standardized with maltodextrin contains 1.1% by weight of lawsone, i.e. 71% of lawsone present in the plant.
- the lawsone content of the butanol phase is determined by H.P.L.C. and the maltodextrin is added in sufficient quantity to obtain a mixture containing between 1.1 and 1.3% by weight of lawsone.
- the concentrate is dried to obtain a powder.
- the extract includes the following compounds determined by UHPLC-UV: The presence of glycosilated luteolin, in particular luteolin-6-C-neohesperidoside, and coumaric acid is also observed.
- Example 7 The coloring compositions are prepared by mixing an extract of the aerial parts of Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench prepared according to examples 1 or 2 and an extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis prepared according to examples 4 or 5 Additional coloring agents can be added such as an extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis prepared according to Examples 6.1 to 6.4 or an extract of indigo plants.
- Sorghum bicolor (L.) Moench prepared according to examples 1 or 2
- Additional coloring agents can be added such as an extract of the aerial parts of Lawsonia inermis prepared according to Examples 6.1 to 6.4 or an extract of indigo plants.
- the coloring compositions obtained provide intense coloring of keratin fibers.
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Abstract
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Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR2013401A FR3117370B1 (fr) | 2020-12-16 | 2020-12-16 | Compositions colorantes comprenant un extrait des parties aeriennes desorghum bicolor (l.) moench |
PCT/FR2021/052363 WO2022129800A1 (fr) | 2020-12-16 | 2021-12-16 | Compositions colorantes comprenant un extrait des parties aeriennes de sorghum bicolor (l.) moench |
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EP4262742A1 true EP4262742A1 (fr) | 2023-10-25 |
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EP21851616.9A Pending EP4262742A1 (fr) | 2020-12-16 | 2021-12-16 | Compositions colorantes comprenant un extrait des parties aériennes de sorghum bicolor (l.) moench |
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EP (1) | EP4262742A1 (fr) |
FR (1) | FR3117370B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2022129800A1 (fr) |
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CN108096156A (zh) * | 2016-11-24 | 2018-06-01 | 陈君君 | 一种指甲花纯植物染发剂及其制备方法 |
FR3063639B1 (fr) | 2017-03-10 | 2021-08-27 | Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique | Extrait de gardenia pour la coloration des fibres keratiniques |
FR3070128B1 (fr) * | 2017-08-17 | 2021-05-14 | Laboratoire Isatis | Composition de coloration permanente sous forme de gel ou creme |
FR3074690B1 (fr) | 2017-12-12 | 2020-10-02 | Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique | Extrait de parties aeriennes de lawsonia inermis et son procede de preparation |
CN109303731A (zh) * | 2018-11-26 | 2019-02-05 | 庄雪芸 | 一种具有头皮抗衰功能的洗发水配方 |
FR3097125B1 (fr) * | 2019-06-12 | 2021-06-25 | Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique | Composition colorante comprenant une association de deux extraits végétaux deLawsonia inermis |
FR3097126B1 (fr) * | 2019-06-12 | 2021-06-25 | Fabre Pierre Dermo Cosmetique | Composition colorante comprenant une association d’actifs colorants naturels dont un extrait de Lawsonia inermis |
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WO2022129800A1 (fr) | 2022-06-23 |
FR3117370A1 (fr) | 2022-06-17 |
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