EP4259085A1 - Zusammensetzung mit silikonfreiem elastomer und pastöser fettiger substanz - Google Patents

Zusammensetzung mit silikonfreiem elastomer und pastöser fettiger substanz

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Publication number
EP4259085A1
EP4259085A1 EP21851662.3A EP21851662A EP4259085A1 EP 4259085 A1 EP4259085 A1 EP 4259085A1 EP 21851662 A EP21851662 A EP 21851662A EP 4259085 A1 EP4259085 A1 EP 4259085A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
esters
acid
composition according
composition
residue
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21851662.3A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Corinne PIOFFET
Amandine DUVERT
Chantal Kurfurst
Marie HERVÉ-BERDYS
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LVMH Recherche GIE
Original Assignee
LVMH Recherche GIE
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LVMH Recherche GIE filed Critical LVMH Recherche GIE
Publication of EP4259085A1 publication Critical patent/EP4259085A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/85—Polyesters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/90—Block copolymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks

Definitions

  • DESCRIPTION TITLE Composition with non-silicone elastomer and pasty fatty substance
  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic field and in particular to compositions comprising a non-silicone elastomer and a particular pasty fatty substance.
  • the non-silicone elastomer is preferably biobased and the composition is preferably a solid composition for the lips.
  • STATE OF THE ART Silicone elastomers are widely used in cosmetics for their ability to impart sensoriality and mattness to care and makeup products in which they are incorporated. However, they do have the drawback of a silicone chemistry which the consumer abandons, in favor of more natural, biodegradable products.
  • the present invention precisely meets this need by implementing, in a preferably solid composition, a non-silicone elastomer providing good sensoriality and smoothness on application and a particular pasty fatty substance.
  • the non-silicone elastomer and the pasty fatty substance are preferably bio-sourced.
  • This combination makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous composition with a very high natural origin and having a desired cosmetic appeal: melting, comfort, softness, gummy sensation with a luminous matte make-up finish, a gummed and homogeneous effect on keratin materials and in particular the lips.
  • a first aspect of the invention is therefore a preferably solid cosmetic composition
  • a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel comprising a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer (copolymer) or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers (copolymers), said copolymer or said mixture of copolymers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a (poly)isocyanate and at least one solvent, in particular from a carboxylic acid dimer or trimer, at least one polyol and a diisocyanate, and one or more pasty fatty substances chosen from the group consisting of
  • the composition will also comprise at least one ingredient chosen from oils, waxes, butters and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition also comprises at least one filler, in particular a mineral filler, more preferably a silica.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least 70%, 80%, 90%, or even at least 95% by weight of biobased ingredients.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process comprising a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips and preferably the lips, characterized in that it comprises the application on said keratin materials and preferably the lips of a composition according to the invention.
  • a first aspect of the invention is therefore a preferably solid cosmetic composition
  • a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel comprising a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer (copolymer) or a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers (copolymers), said copolymer or said mixture of copolymers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and from a (poly)isocyanate and at least one solvent, in particular from a carboxylic acid dimer or trimer, from at least one polyol and from a diisocyanate, and one or more pasty fatty substances chosen ) in the group consisting of
  • the composition of the invention is in solid form.
  • the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.
  • the water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the compositions.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is completely free of water.
  • the ingredients present in the composition of the invention are biosourced ingredients.
  • biosourced ingredients according to the invention we mean ingredients obtained essentially from materials of natural origin. According to the definition given by the ⁇ DEME (Ecological Transition Agency), biobased products are non-food industrial products obtained from renewable raw materials derived from biomass (plants for example).
  • the composition will comprise at least 70% by weight of bio-based ingredients, in particular at least 80%, 90% or even at least 95% by weight of bio-based compounds.
  • the composition of the invention contains less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, of silicone compounds. It is preferably free from it.
  • silicone compound means a molecule comprising at least one silicon atom.
  • the composition is preferably devoid of a compound chosen from crosslinked silicone polymers such as silicone elastomers, silicone resins, silicone surfactants, silicone gums, cyclic silicones of a volatile nature, and phenyl silicone oils, and dimethicones.
  • elastomer we generally mean a cross-linked polymer with elastic properties.
  • the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer is in particular in the form of a gel, in which the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer is dispersed in at least one solvent.
  • the elastomer gel can comprise one or more cross-linked polyurethane elastomers.
  • the polyurethane elastomer(s) are/is micronized (particle size of 1 to 100 microns, preferably 1 to 60 microns in diameter).
  • the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention may consist of a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer (copolymer) or of a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers (copolymers), the copolymer or the mixture of copolymers being obtained from a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and from a (poly)isocyanate and at least one solvent, in particular from a carboxylic acid dimer or trimer, preferably C16-C20, a polyol and a diisocyanate.
  • the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer gel used in the invention may consist of a single crosslinked polyurethane elastomer (copolymer) or of a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers (copolymers), the elastomer (copolymer) or mixture of elastomers (copolymers) being obtained by reacting a (poly)isocyanate with a prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups and a cosmetic solvent under conditions to form the elastomer cross-linked polyurethane.
  • a urethanization reaction catalyst is used, such as a catalyst based on bismuth or zinc.
  • the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention is advantageously biosourced, that is to say obtained from raw materials of natural origin (85%, better still 90%, or even 95% biosourced).
  • the prepolymer, the (poly)isocyanate and the cosmetic solvent are of natural origin (for example vegetable) at more than 85%, or even more than 95%.
  • the prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups is a copolymer of a carboxylic acid dimer or trimer, and of a polyol.
  • prepolymers mention may in particular be made of copolymers of a dimer or a trimer of a carboxylic acid, preferably C16-C20, and of a polyol.
  • the carboxylic acid may comprise a linear carbon chain with at least one carbon-carbon double bond, as is the case with an unsaturated fatty acid.
  • the carboxylic acid is a dimer of C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular dilinoleic acid.
  • the polyol can be saturated or unsaturated, can comprise two or three —OH functions, and optionally comprise other functions such as one or more ester functions.
  • the polyol is for example an aliphatic diol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular 3 or 4 carbon atoms, such as propanediol or butanediol.
  • the polyol can also be a fatty acid triglyceride comprising at least two —OH groups, for example ricinoleic acid triglyceride, or a natural plant source containing it, such as castor oil.
  • the polyol is chosen from the group consisting of an aliphatic diol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as 1,2 ethanediol, propanediols such as 1,2 propanediol, 1,3 propanediol , butanediol, pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, preferably propanediols and butanediol; a fatty acid triglyceride comprising at least two -OH groups, such as ricinoleic acid triglyceride or a vegetable source containing it, such as castor oil.
  • an aliphatic diol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms
  • propanediols such as 1,2 propanediol, 1,3 propanediol , butanediol, pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, preferably propanediols and butanediol
  • the prepolymer is a copolymer of dilinoleic acid and propanediol (DAPD) or a copolymer of dilinoleic acid and butanediol (DABP).
  • DAPD dilinoleic acid and propanediol
  • DABP dilinoleic acid and butanediol
  • (Poly)isocyanates are compounds containing an isocyanate (-NCO) group. They react with prepolymers containing hydroxyl groups to produce polyurethane polymers.
  • the (poly)isocyanate is advantageously a diisocyanate, preferably an aliphatic diisocyanate which may contain 5 or 6 carbon atoms (in its main chain or its cycle).
  • the diisocyanate can be linear or cyclic.
  • the (poly)isocyanate is a diisocyanate, in particular an aliphatic diisocyanate which may contain from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), 1 ,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate (PDI) or isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI).
  • HDI 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate
  • PDI 1 ,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate
  • IPDI isophorone diisocyanate
  • the prepolymer having at least two hydroxyl groups is a copolymer of a carboxylic acid dimer or trimer, and of a polyol, in particular of a fatty acid dimer C12-C18, preferably dilinoleic acid, and a polyol chosen from the group consisting of an aliphatic diol comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as 1,2 ethanediol, propanediols such as 1,2 propanediol, 1,3 propanediol, butanediol, pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, preferably propanediols and butanediol; a fatty acid triglyceride comprising at least two -OH groups, such as ricinoleic acid triglyceride or a vegetable source containing it, such as castor oil, and in that the (poly)isocyanate is a diis
  • esters, ethers, alkanes and mixtures thereof As cosmetic solvents used in the synthesis of the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer and/or the formation of the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel, mention may be made of esters, ethers, alkanes and mixtures thereof. According to a particular method, it is possible to use: triglycerides of plant origin such as glycerol trihexanoate, glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin), glycerol trioctanoate, coco-caprylate/caprate, C9-C22 alkanes such as undecane, tridecane; esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin), coco-caprylate/caprate, C9-C22 alkanes, esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof.
  • triglycerides of plant origin such as glycerol trihe
  • the polyurethane or copolymer elastomer gel of the invention comprises at least one solvent chosen from the group consisting of triglycerides of vegetable origin such as glycerol trihexanoate, glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin ), glycerol trioctanoate, coco-caprylate/caprate, C9-C22 alkanes such as undecane, tridecane; esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof, preferably glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin), coco-caprylate/caprate, C9-C22 alkanes, esters of natural origin and mixtures thereof.
  • triglycerides of vegetable origin such as glycerol trihexanoate, glycerol triheptanoate (triheptanoin ), glycerol trioctanoate, coco-caprylate/caprate, C9-C22 alkanes such as undecan
  • Crosslinked polyurethane elastomers which can be used according to the invention are described in the application published under the number W0202141046 in the name of Grant Industries Inc.
  • the preparation of a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer and the subsequent formation of a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel as used according to the invention may comprise the following steps:
  • a biobased prepolymer with a biobased (poly)isocyanate using a urethanization reaction catalyst such as a bismuth catalyst at a suitable and controlled temperature, for example from 20° C. to 100° C., in a reaction medium comprising a bio-based solvent or a mixture of preferably bio-based solvents to form the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer; alternatively, the formation of the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer can be carried out without stirring, at room temperature, for about 24 hours;
  • the concentrated elastomer can then optionally be diluted with a secondary solvent, volatile or non-volatile, to obtain the desired viscosity for the cross-linked polyurethane elastomer gel.
  • the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention can be obtained by a first step of preparing the prepolymer (copolymerization of the C16-C20 carboxylic acid dimer or trimer and of the polyol , the polyol being an aliphatic diol comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms, preferably a linear diol), followed by a second step of reaction of the prepolymer with the (poly)isocyanate consisting in adding the diisocyanate.
  • the carboxylic acid may comprise a linear carbon chain with at least one carbon-carbon double bond, as is the case with an unsaturated fatty acid.
  • the diisocyanate is preferably an aliphatic diisocyanate which may contain 5 or 6 carbon atoms.
  • the diisocyanate can be linear or cyclic. It can be 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI), 1,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate (PDI) or isophorone diisocyanate (I PDI).
  • HDI 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate
  • PDI 1,5-pentamethylene diisocyanate
  • I PDI isophorone diisocyanate
  • the prepolymer which contains 2 hydroxyl groups, represents a content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight of the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer.
  • the preferably bio-based (poly)isocyanate contains 15 to 38%, or 15 to 28% -NCO group.
  • the total molar ratio of the -NCO groups of the isocyanate to the -OH groups of the polyol can range from 2:1 to 1:2, and is preferably 1:1.
  • the content of cosmetic solvent(s) will generally be 70 to 95% by weight relative to the weight of cross-linked polyurethane elastomer.
  • the catalyst content may be from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight.
  • the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer gel of the invention may comprise a crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or a mixture of crosslinked polyurethane elastomers.
  • the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel used in the compositions according to the invention may comprise from 5 to 30% by weight, in particular from 5 to 17% by weight of active material of elastomer(s) of cross-linked polyurethane(s), and from 70 to 95% by weight, in particular from 83 to 95% by weight of solvent(s).
  • the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel used according to the invention is the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gel prepared in Example 6 or in Example 9 of application WO202141046 from Grant Industries Inc.
  • the pre -polymer is a copolymer of C8 dimer acid and 1,3 propanediol (D ⁇ PD) or 1,4 butanediol (D ⁇ BD)
  • the polyisocyanate is a trimer of pentylene diisocyanate (PDT)
  • the catalyst is bismuth neodecanoate and the solvent a mixture of coco-caprylate/caprate and glycerol triheptanoate.
  • the concentrated gel is then formed by the micronization of said cross-linked polyurethane elastomer and the addition of glycerol triheptanoate.
  • the concentrated gel is then diluted with the addition of C9-C12 alkanes (Vegelight 1214).
  • Such crosslinked polyurethane elastomer gels are marketed under the name GransenseTM by Grant Industries.
  • the prepolymer is a reaction product of a diol and a dimer acid, in particular of a dilinoleic acid and propanediol or butanediol and the (poly)isocyanate is a trimer of 1, 5-pentamethylene diisocyanate.
  • the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer or one of the copolymers of the mixture is obtained from dilinoleic acid, propanediol or butanediol and pentamethylene diisocyanate.
  • This crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention can be described as a non-silicone elastomer of polyester nature and have the INCI name: polyurethane-10 Elastomer or polyurethane-100 Elastomer.
  • the gel of crosslinked polyurethane elastomers or copolymer of the invention comprises a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers, said mixture being obtained from dilinoleic acid/polyol prepolymers and of isophorone diisocyanate, the two polyols being butanediol and castor oil.
  • the composition comprises a mixture of at least two crosslinked polyurethane elastomers or copolymers of the invention, said mixture being obtained from prepolymers of dilinoleic acid/two polyols and isophorone diisocyanate, the two polyols being butanediol and castor oil.
  • the mixture contains a first copolymer obtained from dilinoleic acid and butanediol, and a second copolymer obtained from isophorone diisocyanate and castor oil.
  • the mixture of these two elastomers or copolymers may have the following INCI names:
  • Triheptanoin and) Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer Elastomer, or
  • Coco-Caprylate/Caprate and) Triheptanoin (and) C9-12 Alkane (and) Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer Elastomer.
  • GRANSENSE TC-18-X-C INCI name Coco-Caprylate/Caprate (and) Triheptanoin (and) C9-12 Alkane (and) Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer (and) Castor Oil/IPDI Copolymer Elastomer
  • the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention (alone or a mixture of two elastomers or copolymers) according to the invention will generally be present in the composition in a total raw material content ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, in particular from 10% to 50% and in particular from 15 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the crosslinked polyurethane elastomer or copolymer of the invention (alone or a mixture of two copolymers) according to the invention will generally be present in the composition in a content total dry matter (active) ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight, in particular from 1% to 3% and in particular from 2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • pasty fatty compound or “pasty compound” or “pasty fatty substance” denotes a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the Applicant has identified a selection of pasty fatty substances, which are compatible with the non-silicone elastomer according to the invention and make it possible to obtain the properties of texture, sensoriality and stability sought.
  • composition of the invention comprises one or more pasty fatty substances chosen from the group consisting of
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least one pasty fatty substance chosen from esters of polyol(s) and of fatty acid diacid dimer, or of one of its esters, in particular esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, where appropriate, esterified on their function(s) alcohol(s) or free acid(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dilinoleate dimer esters.
  • esters of diol dimer and of fatty acid diacid dimer which can be used in the context of the present invention, are commercially available or can be prepared in a conventional manner. They may in particular be of plant origin and may be obtained by esterification of diacid dimers with diol dimers.
  • the diol is chosen from a fatty alcohol dimer, a mono- or polyglycerol, a mono- or poly-C2-4 alkylene glycol, 1,4 butanediol, and pentaerythritol.
  • the diol derives from the hydrogenation of a diacid dimer of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.
  • the fatty acid is an unsaturated fatty acid in C8 to C34, in particular in C12 to C22 in particular in C16 to C20 and more particularly in C18.
  • the fatty acids mention may be made in particular of undecenoic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidinic acid, gadolenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid, arachidonic acid, and mixtures thereof, preferably linoleic acid.
  • the diacid dimer derives from the dimerization of linoleic acid.
  • said ester is chosen from the esters of general formulas (I), (II) or (IV) below:
  • OR2O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, or
  • - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15,
  • R' 3 represents H or OR'3 represents a fatty acid residue, or a mixture thereof, or
  • - h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9.
  • OR 3 represents a hydrocarbon monoalcohol residue chosen from behenyl, isostearyl, phytosteryl residues and mixtures thereof.
  • OR′ 3 the fatty acid residue represented by OR′ 3 is an isostearyl residue.
  • C0R1”C0 represents a dilinoleate dimer residue.
  • esters can be chosen in particular from the following INCI nomenclature esters
  • composition of the invention comprises at least one pasty fatty substance of formula (I), in which:
  • OR 3 represents a hydrocarbon monoalcohol residue chosen from behenyl, isostearyl, phytosteryl residues and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of diol ester(s) and fatty acid diacid dimer, or one of its esters in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the composition of the invention will comprise a pasty fatty substance chosen from hydrogenated castor oil esters.
  • a pasty fatty substance chosen from hydrogenated castor oil esters.
  • dimer hydrogenated castor oil dilinoleate INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, for example that marketed under the name RISOC ⁇ ST-D ⁇ -L by Estenity
  • hydrogenated castor oil isostearate INCI name Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate
  • RISOCAST MIS by Estenity
  • the total content of hydrogenated castor oil ester(s) in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the composition of the invention will comprise a pasty fatty substance chosen from oligomeric esters of glycerol, in particular diglycerol esters.
  • oligomeric esters of glycerol in particular diglycerol esters.
  • the total content of glycerol ester(s) oligomers, in particular diglycerol esters in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.5% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the total content of pasty fatty substances in the composition of the invention ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight and preferably from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase of the composition also comprises at least one ingredient chosen from oils, fatty substances other than the pasty fatty substance described above, in particular waxes and butters, and mixtures thereof.
  • oil is meant a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure.
  • fat is meant a solid compound or comprising a solid fraction at 25°C. Mention may in particular be made of butters, waxes, pasty compounds other than the pasty fatty substances described above, and mixtures thereof.
  • wax within the meaning of the present invention, is intended to denote a solid compound at 25° C. which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid state change and a melting temperature greater than 30° C., preferably greater than 45° C. .
  • oils and fatty substances that can be used according to the invention can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. Preferably, biosourced oils and fatty substances will be used.
  • fatty substances or vegetable oils that can be used, mention may be made in particular of the following vegetable oils and fatty substances: “vegetable oils” such as: deodorized oil Oleic sunflower, virgin sweet almond oil, virgin muscat rose oil, avocado oil, safflower, camelina, jojoba, borage oil, grape seed oil, argan oil, nigella oils, pumpkin seed oil, perilla oil, castor oil and mixtures thereof, “butters” such as: Murumuru butter, Mango butter, Shea butter, cocoa butter and Cupuaçu butter, and their mixtures, “vegetable waxes” such as: Carnauba wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, jojoba wax , sunflower wax, rice bran wax and mixtures thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • vegetable oils and fatty substances such as: deodorized oil Oleic sunflower, virgin sweet almond oil, virgin muscat rose oil, avocado oil, safflower, camelina, jojoba, borage oil, grape seed oil
  • the composition of the invention will comprise at least one vegetable oil and at least one vegetable fatty substance chosen from vegetable wax, vegetable butter and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the composition also comprises at least one polar hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • polar oil within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an oil whose solubility parameter at 25° C., ⁇ a, is different from 0 (J/cm 3 ) 172 .
  • the polar hydrocarbon-based oil or oils comprise at least one alcohol function (it is then an “alcohol oil”) or at least one ester function (it is then an “ester oil”).
  • the “alcohol oils” mention may in particular be made of C10-C26, more particularly C10-C24, and preferably C12-C22 alcohols, saturated or not, branched or not, more particularly monoalcohols. More particularly, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty monoalcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. As examples of fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic or even natural origin.
  • fatty alcohols which can be used on a preferred basis, mention may in particular be made of lauryl, isostearyl or oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol , octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol is octyldodecanol.
  • ester oils mention may be made in particular of:
  • esters preferably having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glycerine stearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;
  • R1COOR2 the oils of formula R1COOR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1+R2 is >16, such as isononyl isononanoate, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2 dodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyldodec
  • composition of the invention may also comprise at least one hydrocarbon oil chosen from: capric/caprylic triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, coco-caprylate/caprate, triheptanoin, linear or branched C8-C16 alkanes , in particular: C8-C16 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOP ⁇ R® or PERMETYL®, linear or branched alkanes having hydrocarbon chains in
  • C10-C1 such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane, marketed by BASF Care Disations under the name Cetiol® Ultimate,
  • VEGELIGHT® SILK IGFRARED® 1214LC
  • VEGELIGHT® 1214LC VEGELIGHT® 1214LC
  • C12 - n-dodecane
  • C14 n-tetradecane
  • the composition of the invention comprises oils chosen from the group consisting of vegetable oils, C10-C26 alcohol oils, preferably hydroxylated ester oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least one vegetable oil and at least one polar hydrocarbon oil, in particular a C10-C26 alcohol oil, in particular octyldodecanol, and an ester oil chosen from hydroxylated esters. and in particular polyglycerol-2 triisostearate.
  • the alcohol oils may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 20%, preferably from 5 to 15%, preferably from 8 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the ester oils may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 5 to 45%, preferably from 15 to 40%, preferably from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the vegetable oils may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 1 to 20%, preferably from 5 to 15% and preferably from 7 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of oil(s) in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 30 to 90% by weight, in particular from 40 to 80%, preferably from 50 to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of wax(es) in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 1 to 25%, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, in particular from 10 to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of butter(s) in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition can be manufactured according to a process consisting in preparing a mixture of the copolymer in one or more oils before its incorporation with the other ingredients of the composition. These oils may have served as a solvent for the manufacture of the copolymer.
  • the composition may include other ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions. Such ingredients can be chosen from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, cosmetic active agents, fillers, pigments, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fillers and pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic agent to facilitate their dispersion in the oily or fatty phase.
  • the composition also comprises at least one filler.
  • mineral fillers such as powders of alumina, silica, aluminum silicate, fumed silica, silica silylate, titanium dioxide or sericite.
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least one filler, in particular a mineral filler, more preferably a silica, such as that marketed under the name Sunsphere H33.
  • a filler in particular a mineral filler, more preferably a silica, such as that marketed under the name Sunsphere H33.
  • the content of filler(s), in particular silica in the composition of the invention will range from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention for make-up applications, also comprises at least pigments, preferably mineral pigments.
  • mineral pigments mention may be made, by way of examples, of titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue; chromium oxide; hydrated chromium oxide; carbon black and ferric blue.
  • titanium dioxide and iron oxides will be used.
  • the composition of the invention also comprises pigments, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20%, in particular from 1 to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic active agents preferably biosourced (eg: plant extracts) can for example be advantageously chosen from those having an action on the care of the skin and/or the lips, such as moisturizing agents.
  • the composition of the invention comprises: a content of 10 to 40% by weight of a copolymer of dilinoleic acid and crosslinked propanediol with pentymethylene diisocyanate, a total content of 3 to 15% by weight of pasty fatty substance chosen from the group consisting of (i) esters of polyol(s) and of fatty acid diacid dimer, or of one of its esters, (ii) esters of hydrogenated castor oil , (iii) oligomeric esters of glycerol, in particular diglycerol esters, and mixtures thereof, preferably esters of polyol(s) and of fatty acid diacid dimer, or of one of its esters, and advantageously in addition a total content of 50 to 80% by weight of oil(s), in particular chosen from the group consisting of vegetable oils, alcohol oils in C10-C26 preferably octyldodecanol, preferably hydroxylated ester oils
  • wax(es) in particular vegetable or animal waxes, preferably carnauba wax, sunflower wax, and/or beeswax and
  • filler(s) in particular mineral fillers, more preferably silica, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention will comprise a content of biosourced compounds of at least 70%, 80%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%, 99%, 100% in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition for topical application to keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips. It is in particular a composition for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips.
  • composition of the invention can be in the form of a stick for the lips, a balm for the lips, a gloss or a liquid lipstick, preferably a stick for the lips, of a lip balm.
  • the composition of the invention is a solid composition for caring for and/or making up the lips. It may in particular be in the form of a balm or a stick or poured into a dish, preferably a balm or a stick.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least the application to the skin and/or the lips of a composition according to the invention.
  • a non-silicone elastomer and a pasty fatty substance as described above makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous composition with a very high natural origin and having a desired cosmetic appeal: melting, comfort, soft, gummy sensation with a luminous matte make-up finish, an erased and homogeneous effect on keratin materials and in particular the lips.
  • the cosmetic process of the invention is intended in particular to obtain a matte and comfortable deposit on the lips.
  • the invention will be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples.
  • the percentages (%) are expressed as percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.
  • Example 1 Selection of pasty fatty substances
  • the ingredients are mixed and stirred for 10 minutes in a Bain Marie 80° C. at 600 revolutions/minute.
  • compatibility the compatibility of the pasty fatty substance with the non-silicone elastomer and the oil according to the invention is evaluated hot (80° C.) after mixing and stirring
  • stability at 24 h T24 h: the composition is evaluated at 24 h, by observing the sedimentation, the appearance and the dispersion
  • sensoriality (touch) at 24 h the texture of the composition is evaluated at 24 h to the touch and the appearance and the sensoriality of the film on application to the lips
  • Stability at 1 week room temperature, at 50° C. and at LT: temperature alternating at ⁇ 5° C. and 40° C.
  • ester of polyol(s) and fatty acid diacid dimer or one of its esters
  • oligomeric glycerol esters in particular diglycerol esters, compared with pasty fatty substances of the jojoba ester type (Floraesters) or caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic triglycerides (Softisan 378), make it possible to obtain the properties of texture, sensoriality and stability sought.
  • composition is prepared according to the following protocol: the ingredients of phase A1 are weighed and melted in a water bath at 95° C., then homogenized under Rayneri for 15 minutes; - the non-silicone elastomer according to the invention (A2) is added and stirred for
  • the pigments (B) are added and mixed for 15 minutes with Rayneri; the silica (C) is then dispersed, stirred for 5 minutes and passed through a Turrax to obtain a homogeneous composition - the composition is then poured hot into a tool to obtain a stick
  • composition obtained is in the form of a homogeneous stick, soft, fluffy, with a gummy texture, coating, slightly covering, with an effect without material on application, and without transfer, with a gummy and slightly colored matte finish ( bitten lips effect) on the lips.
  • composition is prepared according to the method described in Example 2-1.
  • the composition has a lightly covering, gummy texture for a natural gummy matte finish on the lips.
  • composition is prepared according to the method described in Example 2-1.
  • the composition has a melting, gummy, slightly covering texture, for a matte and natural finish on the lips.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
EP21851662.3A 2020-12-11 2021-12-09 Zusammensetzung mit silikonfreiem elastomer und pastöser fettiger substanz Pending EP4259085A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR2013052A FR3117353B1 (fr) 2020-12-11 2020-12-11 Composition avec élastomère non siliconé et corps gras pâteux
PCT/FR2021/052266 WO2022123184A1 (fr) 2020-12-11 2021-12-09 Composition avec élastomère non siliconé et corps gras pâteux

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EP4259085A1 true EP4259085A1 (de) 2023-10-18

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US (1) US20240041749A1 (de)
EP (1) EP4259085A1 (de)
JP (1) JP2023552618A (de)
CN (1) CN116782871A (de)
FR (1) FR3117353B1 (de)
WO (1) WO2022123184A1 (de)

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FR2857590B1 (fr) * 2003-07-17 2006-01-27 Oreal Composition cosmetique de soin ou de maquillage des matieres keratiniques comprenant un polyester et utilisations
EP1935400B1 (de) * 2006-12-19 2013-09-04 L'Oréal Zusammensetzung zum Schminken der Haut, die ein Harz, ein Blockcopolymer, einen festen Fettstoff und kein flüchtiges Öl enthält
FR2949974B1 (fr) * 2009-09-11 2012-08-10 Oreal Composition cosmetique ou dermatologique comprenant un polymere a base de polyols particuliers, et procede de traitement cosmetique
FR3064638B1 (fr) * 2017-04-04 2020-04-17 Polymerexpert Sa Nouveau gelifiant polyurethane
FR3092996B1 (fr) * 2019-02-26 2021-05-28 Chanel Parfums Beaute Composition cosmétique solide glissante et fondante à l’application
JP2022546090A (ja) 2019-08-30 2022-11-02 グラント インダストリーズ，インコーポレーテッド 化粧品及びパーソナルケアのためのバイオベース及び生分解性のエラストマー

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WO2022123184A1 (fr) 2022-06-16
US20240041749A1 (en) 2024-02-08
FR3117353A1 (fr) 2022-06-17
FR3117353B1 (fr) 2022-12-16
JP2023552618A (ja) 2023-12-18

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