EP4208594A1

EP4208594A1 - Method and device for producing a multicomponent effect yarn

Info

Publication number: EP4208594A1
Application number: EP21772740.3A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Samuel PARIS; Marc VALZER
Original assignee: SSM Schaerer Schweiter Mettler AG
Current assignee: SSM Schaerer Schweiter Mettler AG
Priority date: 2020-09-02
Filing date: 2021-08-31
Publication date: 2023-07-12
Also published as: TW202210673A; CH717804A1; WO2022049052A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a device and to a method for producing a multicomponent effect yarn (1) and to a multicomponent effect yarn (1) having different short or long effects in volume, colour, stretch variation and/or swirl quality formed from at least two different components (2, 3, 4). The components (2, 3, 4) each have a component feed (5, 6, 7) leading to a shared air mixing nozzle (8) having an air feed (9). The device comprises a controlled variation of a feed speed of the individual components (2, 3, 4). The feed speed of each individual component (2, 3, 4) can be set, wherein: the setting defines a range comprising an upper and a lower value, and a time cycle is determined for a variation between the defined values or for a random variation of the values within the set range; the cycle is defined by a pattern of individual steps repeating in certain periods; each step can be set individually, or the air feed (9) has a closing member (10); the air feed (9) is switched on and off cyclically for predefined times or is randomised within a certain time frame in accordance with a repeating cycle; the cycle is defined by a pattern of individual steps repeating in certain periods; each step can be set individually.

Description

Process and device for producing an effect multi-component yarn

The present invention relates to a method and a device for producing an effect multi-component yarn with different short or long effects from at least two components that differ in volume, color, elongation variation and/or entanglement quality, each with a component feed and a common air entanglement nozzle with an air feed.

So-called effect yarns are used for the production of structured fabrics or knitted fabrics. Fancy yarns alternately have thick and thin or voluminous or less voluminous areas. Known from the prior art is, for example, the production of thick-thin yarns using the false twist texturing principle, in which a bundle of threads is twisted up to a predetermined extent, the twists are fixed and the bundle of threads provided with such fixed twists to the same extent , but is turned back in the opposite direction. CH 569 102 A5, for example, discloses a device for producing an effect yarn with alternating voluminous and less voluminous areas using a false twist texturing machine known per se, with a heating device forming the false twist texturing zone and a false twist generator connected at a distance downstream of this. Arranged between the heating device and the false twister is a blocking device which, when the device is in operation, is able to intermittently deflect thread bundles from their original path by means of a rotating or oscillating movement. Furthermore, JP 2005232610 A discloses a method for producing an effect yarn from multifilaments of different colors by means of an individually adjustable feed speed for the individual multifilaments.

Furthermore, the method of air turbulence is already well known. For example, US Pat. No. 3,364,537 A discloses a device for intermingling multifilament yarn. Air entanglement consists of a yarn pass in combination with one or more pairs of opposed air ducts arranged to provide flows of high velocity air perpendicular to the axis of the yarn pass guide. The thread passage may be rectangular or circular in cross-section, or it may be an open trough or slot with an axis parallel to the threadline, or it may be of any suitable cross-section conforming to these configurations.

The thread passage cross section does not have to have the same shape everywhere. Each opposed pair of conduits has a common longitudinal axis, and when there are multiple opposed pairs of fluid conduits, they may be spaced along the filamentary passage in the same plane or at different angles relative to each other.

The production of unusual multifilament yarns, so-called fancy yarns, with the above devices is usually limited and demanding. Subsequently, for example, the combination and texturing of space-colored yarn was disclosed according to US Pat. No. 4,299,015. It is possible to use different combinations of yarns with different colors, textures or deniers. However, the effect is constant throughout the process and cannot be controlled via the yarn length.

Patent US4103481 describes a variable diameter yarn created during the false twist texturing process by alternating twisted and untwisted zones with a twist locking device. This method is based on uncontrolled disturbances that result in a random effect.

A disadvantage of the known methods and devices is that there is no possibility of controlled effects over a specific thread length. Either a yarn with effects distributed over the yarn length due to uncontrollable random effects or a yarn with uncontrollable constant effects over the yarn length is achieved. The effects are each specified for the end product in the disclosed devices.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a device which enables the production of fancy yarns from at least two components, the two components each having defined variations that affect the final appearance of the yarn along its entire length. These variations can significantly affect color variation, bulk, luster and elongation properties of the resulting yarn.

The object is achieved by a device having the features of the independent patent claims.

Proposed is a device for producing an effect multi-component yarn with different short or long effects from at least two components that differ in terms of volume, color, elongation variation and/or intermingling quality, each with a component feed and a common air mixing nozzle with an air feed, characterized in that the Device includes a controlled variation of a feed rate of the individual components. The effect is based on the speed of the intermingling process and does not change the structure of the individually supplied components or yarns. Depending on the yarns fed, different effects can be created by different deniers, different colors, different materials, different structures and textures of the yarns, etc.

The device makes it possible to produce a multi-component yarn in which the effect results from the various yarns combined for production and their properties. The individual components or yarns are each fed to the air mixing nozzle via a component feed, with the speed of the component feed of each individual component being controllable. As a result, the speed at which a component enters the air mixing nozzle can be adjusted or regulated individually for each component.

According to the invention, the feeding speed of each individual component can be adjusted, with the setting defining a range comprising an upper and a lower value and a time cycle being set for a variation between the defined values or for a random variation of the values within the set range. Typical feed speeds are 100 m/min to 1000 m/min for the Use of air mixing nozzles known today. However, the actual feed speed depends on the type of yarn fed, resp. the component. For example, a slub yarn is introduced into air mixing nozzles at a feed rate of 100 m/min to 1200 m/min or an elastic filament yarn at a feed rate of 20 m/min to 1000 m/min. A range is preferably defined which corresponds to an over-delivery of -5% to +25% of the normal feed speed of the component fed into the air mixing nozzle. When designing the machine or the corresponding components, an over-delivery of -50% to +50% is provided. Each individual component is fed into the air mixing nozzle via an independent device for feeding the respective component. The device can, for example, be designed as a yarn conveyor, yarn brake or as a yarn deflection device. In the case of a yarn conveyor, for example, an arrangement of godets is conceivable, which convey the components from a supply coil to the air mixing nozzle. A yarn brake can be implemented by more or less strong clamping of the component before it enters the air mixing nozzle. Devices such as those known from CH 569 102 A5, for example, can be used for a thread deflection device.

A range is defined for each of the components for setting the feed rate, in the sense that a maximum and a minimum feed rate is set, between which the device varies during operation. A time cycle is also defined, i.e. a time is determined during which the feed speed range is traversed. In a first variant, after each time cycle, running through the feed speed range starts anew. In addition, there is the possibility of varying the times for passing through the feed speed range from one time cycle to the next. However, there is also the possibility of determining a specific time cycle for a specific feed speed. Accordingly, after the cycle time has been reached, the feed speed is switched to a next value. Alternatively, a random setting of the feed speed can be selected within the specified range. The set cycle time then causes a change to the next random value of the feed speed after the cycle time has expired. Also a mix or consecutive ordering of the various setting options is conceivable.

As a supplement or alternative, the air supply has a closing element, with the air supply being switched on and off for predefined times cyclically or randomly within a specific time window according to a repeating cycle. In order to achieve a further effect, the air supply to the air mixing nozzle is controlled according to a preset setting. Times are defined for keeping the air mixing nozzle open and for keeping the air mixing nozzle closed. As an alternative to this, a time window can be provided within which the air supply is randomly switched on and off again. A repeating time cycle is provided for both variants. After a certain time has elapsed, the air supply is switched to a zero position and the process begins again. The zero position can be the open or the closed position of the closure member of the air supply. The predefined times are typically 3 milliseconds to 5000 milliseconds, and in the case of randomized changes, variations in the time window in a range from +0% to +1000% are advantageous in order to achieve a visible effect in the yarn. For example, with a predefined time of 3 milliseconds and a range of +100% for the randomization, the time window varies from 3 milliseconds to 6 milliseconds. Devices known from the prior art are conceivable as the closing element, such as a pneumatic valve, a slide or a ball valve, which have short closing times.

Furthermore, the cycle is defined by a pattern of individual steps that are repeated in certain periods, with each step being individually adjustable. The periodicity results in a recognizable pattern in a woven or knitted product when the yarn produced with the device is later used. The possibility of setting the individual steps results in the possibility of a large number of patterns.

Advantageously, the air mixing nozzle comprises an intermingling or swirling nozzle to fix the effect of the yarn. Such nozzles for processing Multi-component yarns or filament yarns are known from the prior art and are commercially available. The effect of using mixing air mixing nozzles is that the various components inside the nozzle are twisted into one another, i.e. "mixed". On the other hand, a swirling air mixing nozzle is used to connect the individual components to one another by briefly swirling them at certain intervals.

Also proposed is a corresponding method for producing an effect multi-component yarn with an air-mixing process of at least two components and with a device as described above, the components being fed to the air-mixing process at different feed rates or intermittently supplying air during the air-mixing process a combination of these can be generated. The feeding speed and/or the air supply can be adjusted cyclically or according to a time pattern. A change in the feed speed and/or the air supply can advantageously be adjusted over time. As a result, the speed of the change itself can also be used to create an effect.

Furthermore, an effect multi-component yarn is proposed, produced with a device according to the above description. The yarn comprises at least two components, one of the components being a multifilament yarn with a titre of 11 dtex to 1100 dtex. The execution of the first component as a multifilament yarn with a titre in a certain range is important for the function of the air mixing process to achieve the necessary strength of the combination of the different components. It has been shown that it is advantageous if the multifilament yarn is DTY (Draw Texturing Yarn) or FDY (Fully Drawn Yarn) or POY (Partially Oriented Yarn) made of PA (polyamide) or PES (polyester) or PP (polypropylene) or PES copolymer with a titre of 11 to 1100 dtex. The at least second component differs in one of its properties from the first component, for example color, elasticity, material, titre, etc. The type of yarn can also be different, for example DTY or FDY or POY or staple yarn. Alternatively, the at least second component

- an elastic core fiber, preferably elastane with a linear density of 11 to 560 dtex or

- A metallically coated polyester core (e.g. LUREX) with a titre of 20 to 330 dtex or

- A staple yarn, for example made of cotton or polyester with a fineness of Ne120 to Ne5 or a titre of 50 to 1100 dtex or

- a monofilament with a titre of 10 to 330 dtex.

Most preferably, the first component is a drawn textured yarn (DTY) or fully drawn yarn (FDY). The advantageous properties of textured yarn are high elasticity and volume. The advantageous property of fully drawn yarn is high strength. In addition, due to its structure as a multifilament, it is well suited for turbulence.

For example, if the first component is white in color and the second component is black in color, the result in the mixture in the finished product is a yarn of gray color, with more black or more white depending on the procedure or the setting of the feed speeds. Elastane and its elasticity can be used in the same way, for example, to add more or less stretch to the finished product. The use of a metallically coated polyester core as the second component creates a glossy effect in the finished product. A mixture of components from different materials can lead to different effects, for example a mixture of cationic PES with a normal PES or with cotton leads to the different materials also reacting differently to the colors in a dyeing process. This means that the effect of the process only emerges later in the coloring process, where the different components are colored differently.

The greater the difference in thickness between the individual components, the weaker the effect will be visible in the end product. Titers of 55 dtex or 78 dtex or 155 dtex should preferably be used. With a mixture of multifilament yarn with a staple yarn, the titre of the staple yarn must not be greater than the titre of the multifilament yarn in order to achieve a good effect.

Furthermore, an effect multi-component yarn can also be produced from more than two components. For example, a tricolor yarn can be made from three components of different colors. The color mixture in the end product can be changed cyclically or influenced randomly.

A woven fabric with a warp and weft yarn or a knitted fabric is also proposed, with at least one of the yarns being an effect multi-component yarn.

Also proposed is a textile product from the field of sportswear or fashion clothing or home textiles, the textile product having a fabric with a woven fabric or a knitted fabric as described above.

Further advantages of the invention are described in the following exemplary embodiment. Show it:

FIG. 1 shows a schematic representation of a first embodiment of a device according to the invention;

FIG. 2 shows a schematic representation of a second embodiment of a device according to the invention;

FIG. 3a shows a schematic representation of a first multi-component effect yarn and

FIG. 3b shows a schematic representation of a second multi-component effect yarn.

Figure 1 shows a schematic representation of a first embodiment of a device according to the invention for producing an effect multi-component yarn 1. A first component 2 is fed via a first component feed 5 and a second component 3 is fed via a second component feed 6 to a common air mixing nozzle 8 guided. FIG. 1 shows as an example that the first component 2 is unwound from a first spool 11 . Alternatively, the first could Component 2 can also be supplied from a buffer store of a different type or directly from a component manufacture. After the first bobbin 11, the first component 2 runs through a first yarn brake 13. The first yarn brake 13 serves to impose a tension on the first component 2 between the first component feed 5 and the first yarn brake 13. The first component feed 5 is shown as a godet, the godet being set in rotation by a drive 15 . The godet is looped around several times by the first component 2 before the first component 2 is fed further into the air mixing nozzle 8 .

The design of the second component feed 6 is identical to that of the first component feed 5 in the embodiment shown, the second component 3 being unwound from a second spool 12 . Alternatively, the second component 3 could also be supplied from an intermediate store of a different type or directly from a component manufacture. After the second bobbin 12, the second component 3 runs through a second yarn brake 14. The second yarn brake 1 serves to apply tension to the second component 3 between the second component feed 6 and the second yarn brake 14. The second component feed 6 is shown as a godet, the godet being set in rotation by a drive 16 . The second component 3 wraps around the godet several times before the second component 3 is fed further into the air mixing nozzle 8 .

The air mixing nozzle 8 has an air supply 9 , a closure member 10 being provided in the air supply 9 . The amount of air supplied can be controlled by the closure member 10 in that the closure member 10 is partially or completely closed. The closing and opening times as well as the times during which the closure member 10 is closed or open can be changed. Furthermore, it is also conceivable to influence a pressure in the air supply 9 by means of appropriate control elements (not shown).

After leaving the air mixing nozzle 8, the effect multi-component yarn 1 formed therein is guided via a delivery system 18 to an end spool 19. The end coil 19 is driven in a specific direction of rotation 20 and thus the effect multi-component Yarn 1 wound onto the end spool 19. The delivery mechanism 18 serves on the one hand to ensure a uniform take-off speed of the multi-component effect yarn 1 from the air mixing nozzle 8 and on the other hand to achieve uniform tension of the multi-component effect yarn 1 before winding.

FIG. 2 shows a schematic representation of a second embodiment of a device according to the invention. The same components as in Figure 1 are provided with the same reference numbers. In contrast to the device according to FIG. 1, three components 2, 3 and 4 are mixed into an effect multi-component yarn 1 in the device according to FIG. Such a mixture is known in principle in the field of tricolor yarns. A first component 2 and a second component 3 and a third component 4 are guided through a predraft 21 . The pre-draft 21 serves to equalize the stretching and to ensure that the components 2, 3 and 4 reach the respective component feed 5, 6 and 7 with a predetermined thread tension. In the embodiment shown, the first component feed 5, the second component feed 6 and the third component feed 7 are designed as godets with an additional deflection roller. The components 2, 3, and 4 loop around the godet and the deflection roller several times before they are carried on to the common air mixing nozzle 8.

The air mixing nozzle 8 has an air supply 9, with a closure member 10 being provided in the air supply 9, identical to FIG. 1. The three components 2, 3 and 4 have different colors. The three components 2, 3 and 4 are mixed in a wide variety of ways due to the various setting options for the air mixing nozzle 8 and the individual component feeds 5, 6 and 7. After leaving the air-mixing nozzle 8 , the multi-component effect yarn 1 formed in the air-mixing nozzle 8 is passed on via a delivery system 18 to an end spool 19 rotating in the direction of rotation 20 . The multi-component effect yarn 1 is wound onto the end spool 19 .

On the one hand, it is possible to mix the components in such a way that a clear sequence of the three colors in the resulting multi-component effect yarn 1 is achieved. A A corresponding effect multi-component yarn 1 is shown in FIG. 3a, and the three individual colors of the three components 2, 3 and 4 can be seen in a clearly defined repetition. The running direction 23 of the effect multi-component yarn 1 is indicated by the arrow in FIGS. 3a and 3b.

On the other hand, the three components 2, 3 and 4 can be mixed by a corresponding adjustment of the air mixing nozzle 8 or the air supply 9 and the closing element 10 in such a way that the colors are mixed and there is a blurred transition in the multi-component effect yarn 1 from one color to the next, as shown in Figure 3b.

The present invention is not limited to the illustrated and described embodiments. Modifications within the scope of the patent claims are just as possible as a combination of the features, even if they are shown and described in different exemplary embodiments.

Reference List

1 effect multi-component yarn

2 First component

3 Second component

4 Third component

5 First component feed

6 Second component feed

7 Third component feed

8 air mix nozzle

9 air intake

10 closure organ

11 First coil

12 Second coil

13 First thread brake

14 Second thread brake

15 Drive first component feed

16 Second component feed drive

17 Drive for the third component feed

18 delivery plant

19 end coil

20 direction of rotation end coil

21 Advance Default

22 pulley

23 running direction

Claims

patent claims

1 . Device for producing an effect multi-component yarn (1) with different short or long effects in terms of volume, colour, elongation variation and/or intermingling quality from at least two different components (2, 3, 4), each with a component feed (5, 6, 7) and a common air mixing nozzle (8) with an air supply (9), the device comprising a controlled variation of a supply speed of the individual components (2, 3, 4), characterized in that

- the feeding speed of each individual component (2, 3, 4) can be adjusted, the setting defining a range which includes an upper and a lower value and that a time cycle is fixed for a variation between the defined values or for a random variation of the values within the set range, the cycle being defined by a pattern of discrete steps repeating at specified periods, each step being individually adjustable, and/or

- The air supply (9) has a closing element (10), the air supply (9) being switched on and off for predefined times cyclically or randomly within a specific time window according to a repetitive cycle, the cycle being defined by a pattern of individual , is defined in steps that are repeated in certain periods, with each step being individually adjustable. . Device according to one of claims 1, characterized in that the air mixing nozzle (8) comprises a mixing or swirling nozzle for fixing the effect in the multi-component effect yarn (1).

3. Method for producing an effect multi-component yarn (1) with an air mixing process from at least two components (2, 3, 4) and with a device according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the components (2, 3, 4 ) with different feeding speeds supplied to the air mixing process or subjected to intermittent air supply during the air mixing process or produced with a combination thereof, the supply speed and/or the air supply being adjustable cyclically or according to a time pattern, with a change in the supply speed and/or the air supply being over time is adjustable. Effect multi-component yarn (1), produced with a device according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the effect multi-component yarn (1) comprises at least two components, a first component (2) having a multifilament yarn a titre of 11 dtex to 1100 dtex. Effect multi-component yarn (1) according to claim 4, characterized in that the first component is a multi-filament yarn (2) as DTY (Draw Texturing Yarn) or FDY (Fully Drawn Yarn) or POY (Partially Oriented Yarn) made of PA (polyamide) or PES (polyester) or PP (polypropylene) or PES copolymer. Effect multi-component yarn (1) according to claim 4 or 5, characterized in that the at least second component (3) is an elastic core fiber with a titre of 11 to 560 dtex or a metallically coated polyester core with a titre of 20 to 330 dtex or a cotton staple yarn having a fineness of Ne120 to Ne5, or a polyester staple yarn having a titre of 50 to 1100 dtex, or a monofilament having a titer of 10 to 330 dtex. Effect multi-component yarn (1) according to claim 4 to 6, characterized in that the at least two components (3) are made of different materials. Multi-component effect yarn (1) according to claim 4 or 5, characterized in that the multi-component effect yarn (1) consists of three components (2, 3, 4) of different colors and made of the same material. 15 fabric with warp and weft yarn, characterized in that at least one of the warp yarns and / or that weft yarns is an effect multi-component yarn according to any one of claims 4 to 8. Knitted fabric, characterized in that at least one of the yarns is effect multi-component yarn according to one of claims 4 to 8. Textile product, characterized in that the textile product is from the field of sports or fashion clothing or home textiles and contains a fabric with a woven or knitted fabric according to claim 9 or 10.