EP4203911A1 - Compositions cosmétiques, kits correspondants et leurs procédés de fabrication et d'utilisation - Google Patents

Compositions cosmétiques, kits correspondants et leurs procédés de fabrication et d'utilisation

Info

Publication number
EP4203911A1
EP4203911A1 EP21763198.5A EP21763198A EP4203911A1 EP 4203911 A1 EP4203911 A1 EP 4203911A1 EP 21763198 A EP21763198 A EP 21763198A EP 4203911 A1 EP4203911 A1 EP 4203911A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
hair
urea
polyquaternium
acid
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21763198.5A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Cho-Cho KHINE
Ronak RUGHANI
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from US17/007,752 external-priority patent/US20220062135A1/en
Priority claimed from FR2010605A external-priority patent/FR3115203B1/fr
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP4203911A1 publication Critical patent/EP4203911A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions and kits thereof. Aspects of the present disclosure also relate to methods for making such cosmetic compositions and methods of using such cosmetic compositions.
  • compositions for treating, caring for, and/or conditioning keratinous substances such as skin or hair. Hair and skin are exposed to intrinsic and extrinsic influences such as environmental factors, mechanical factors, chemical factors, heat, and aging.
  • the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by heat, mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing, blow-drying, flat ironing, or even repeated washing can damage and weaken hair fibers.
  • hair may become dry, coarse, brittle or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends, resulting in split ends.
  • hair care compositions such as hair conditioner and/or treatment compositions, may be used before or after the hair has been washed with shampoo and/or subjected to a chemical treatment in order to improve or return to the hair its natural luster, shine, and softness, or to improve the feel, appearance, and manageability of hair.
  • haircare and skin care compositions can provide different benefits.
  • aspects of the present disclosure relate to cosmetic compositions and kits thereof. Further aspects of the present disclosure relate to methods for making such cosmetic compositions and methods of using such cosmetic compositions.
  • the cosmetic compositions disclosed herein advantageously provide increased durability and/or strength, perceivable visual shine, fiber alignment, reduced frizz, and/or increased hair manageability. Without being limited to any specific theories, the inventors believe that the cosmetic compositions, and particularly cosmetic compositions containing certain deep eutectic solvent systems, may diffuse into the hair and form an extensive network. The extensive network may reiencforce and/or stabilize the hair structure, which will ultimately reduce hair frizz associated with high humidity.
  • the cosmetic compositions may be capable of self-association typically through hydrogen bond interactions, which may enable the cosmetic compositions to reinforce and/or strengthen hair, particularly damaged hair.
  • cosmetic compositions restore damaged hair.
  • the inventors were also surprised to discover that the cosmetic compositions may increase the straightness of the hair without the use of heat, such as from an iron, blow dryer, or the like.
  • the cosmetic compositions typically include:
  • the cosmetic composition may include an amount of deep eutectic solvent.
  • the amount of the deep eutectic solvent is 1 wt.% or more.
  • the deep eutectic solvent may comprise the urea compound of (a) and citric acid of (b).
  • the urea compound of is chosen from dimethyl urea, a hydroxyl ethyl urea, urea, and a mixture thereof.
  • the weight ratio of the citric acid of (a) to the urea compound of (b) is about 1 :1 to 1 :8. In further cases, the weight ratio of the citric acid of (a) to the urea compound of (b) is about 1 :1 to 1 :6.
  • the cosmetic composition includes about 2.5 to about 40 wt.% of the one or more urea compound and about 1 .5 to about 25 wt.% of the citric acid. In at least one other embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes about 20 to about 40 wt.% of the one or more urea compound and about 15 to about 25 wt.% of the citric acid.
  • the cosmetic compositions may further include about 0.1 to about 10 wt.% of one or more cationic surfactant.
  • the one or more cationic surfactant may be chosen from from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamid
  • the cosmetic compositions include about 0.1 to about 25 wt.% of one or more fatty compounds.
  • the fatty compound may be chosen from a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty ether, a fatty acid, a wax, an oil, a derivative thereof, and a mixture thereof.
  • the cosmetic compositions may include about 20 to about 95 wt.% of a polyol.
  • Suitable polyols include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, glycerin, polyethylene glycols, or a mixture thereof.
  • the cosmetic compositions may include about 0.1 to about 20 wt.% of a thickening agent.
  • the thickening agent may be chosen from polyacrylate crosspolymers or crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, cationic acrylate copolymers, anionic acrylic or carboxylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, gums, polyquaterniums, vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers/copolymers, C8-24 hydroxyl substituted aliphatic acid, C8-24 conjugated aliphatic acid, sugar fatty esters, polyglyceryl esters, and a mixture thereof.
  • aspects of the disclosure relate to methods for producing cosmetic compositions.
  • the methods for producing cosmetic compositions typically include:
  • the method may further include the step of mixing the citric acid of (a) and the urea compound of (b) and, optionally, heating the citric acid of (a) and the urea compound of (b) to a temperature of about 70°C to about 90°C.
  • the method for treating hair typically comprise:
  • FIGS. 1 and 2 are pictures of hair swatches treated with compositions according to the instant disclosure and subjected to humidity in accordance with aspects of the disclosure;
  • FIG. 3 is a bar graph showing the durability of hair swatches after treatment with exemplary cosmetic compositions according to aspects of the disclosure
  • FIG. 4 is a bar graph showing the denaturation temperature of hair swatches after treatment with exemplary cosmetic compositions in accordance with aspects of the disclosure
  • FIG. 5 is a bar graph showing the durability of hair swatches after treatment with comparative compositions and exemplary cosmetic composition according to aspects of the disclosure
  • FIG. 6 is a bar graph showing the denaturation temperature of hair swatches after treatment with comparative compositions and exemplary cosmetic composition in accordance with aspects of the disclosure
  • FIG. 7 is a bar graph showing the Young’s modulus of hair swatches after treatment with comparative compositions and exemplary cosmetic composition according to aspects of the disclosure.
  • FIG. 8 is a bar graph showing the break extension of hair swatches after treatment with comparative compositions and exemplary cosmetic composition in accordance with aspects of the disclosure.
  • aspects of the present disclosure relate to cosmetic compositions and kits thereof. Further aspects of the present disclosure relate to methods for making such cosmetic compositions and methods of using such cosmetic compositions.
  • the cosmetic compositions disclosed herein advantageously provide increased durability and/or strength, perceivable visual shine, fiber alignment, reduced frizz, and/or increased hair manageability.
  • the inventors surprisingly discovered that certain compounds in specific ratios enables the cosmetic compositions to provide improved durability and strength in conjunction with a reduction of hair frizz. Without being limited to any specific theories, the inventors believe that the cosmetic compositions, and particularly cosmetic compositions containing certain deep eutectic solvent (DES) systems, may diffuse into the hair and form an extensive network. The extensive network may reiencforce and/or stabilize the hair structure, which will ultimately reduce hair frizz associated with high humidity.
  • the cosmetic compositions and/or their ingredients may be capable of selfassociation typically through non-covalent interactions (i.e. , hydrogen bond, ionic and Van Der Waal interactions), which may enable the cosmetic compositions to reinforce and/or strengthen hair, particularly damaged hair. In some embodiments, cosmetic compositions restore damaged hair.
  • cosmetic compositions may increase the straightness/alignment of the hair fibers without the use of heat, such as from an iron, blow dryer, or the like.
  • the cosmetic compositions such as those containing a DES system, have also shown evidence of shine benefits which are being currently investigated
  • compositions according to an aspect of the disclosure typically include:
  • the cosmetic compositions may include an amount of a deep eutectic solvent system (“DES”).
  • the amount of the deep eutectic solvent is about 1 wt.% or more, preferably about 2 wt.% or more, about 3 wt.% or more, about 4 wt.% or more, about 5 wt.% or more, about 6 wt.% or more, about 7 wt.% or more, about 8 wt.% or more, about 9 wt.% or more, about 10 wt.% or more, about 12 wt.% or more, about 14 wt.% or more, about 16 wt.% or more, about 18 wt.% or more, about 20 wt.% or more, about 22 wt.% or more, about 24 wt.% or more, about 26 wt.% or more, about 28 wt.% or more, about 30 wt.% or more, about 32 wt.% or more, about 34 wt.
  • the cosmetic composition may be formulated to have a weight ratio of the citric acid of (i) to the urea compound of (ii) may be about 10:1 to about 2:10.
  • the cosmetic composition may be formulated to have a weight ratio of citric acid to urea compound(s) of about 10:1 to about 0.5:10, about 9:1 to about 0.5:10, about 8:1 to about 0.5:10, about 7:1 to about 0.5:10, about 6:1 to about 0.5:10, about 5:1 to about 0.5:10, about 4:1 to about 0.5:10, about 3:1 to about 0.5:10; 10:1 to about 1 :10, about 9:1 to about 1 :10, about 8:1 to about 1 :10, about 7:1 to about 1 :10, about 6:1 to about 1 :10, about 5:1 to about 1 :10, about 4:1 to about 1 :10, about 3:1 to about 1 :10; 10:1 to about 1 :10, about 9:1 to
  • the cosmetic composition may be formulated to have a molar ratio of the citric acid of (i) to the urea compound of (ii) may be about 10:1 to about 0.5:10.
  • the cosmetic composition may be formulated to have a weight ratio of citric acid to urea compound(s) of 10:1 to about 0.5:10, about 9:1 to about 0.5:10, about 8:1 to about 0.5:10, about 7:1 to about 0.5:10, about 6:1 to about 0.5:10, about 5:1 to about 0.5:10, about 4:1 to about 0.5:10, about 3:1 to about 0.5:10; 10:1 to about 1 :10, about 9:1 to about 1 :10, about 8:1 to about 1 :10, about 7:1 to about 1 :10, about 6:1 to about 1 : 10, about 5:1 to about 1 :10, about 4:1 to about 1 :10, about 3:1 to about 1 :10; about 10:1 to about 1 :10, about 9:
  • the DES system comprises citric acid and one or more urea compound.
  • the DES system is formed from citric acid and one or more urea compound, such as those chosen from dimethyl urea, a hydroxyl ethyl urea, urea, and a mixture thereof.
  • the combination of the citric acid and the urea compound(s) is in the form of a DES system before inclusion into the base of the cosmetic composition.
  • the base of the cosmetic composition may be a composition of one or more components of the cosmetic composition.
  • the base composition may include all components of the cosmetic composition except for the citric acid and urea compound(s).
  • the cosmetic composition may at least partially include the DES system after the DES system is incorporated into the base cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may include arginine.
  • the arginine is l-arginine, d-arginine, and/or may be in a racemic mixture.
  • Suitable components may be included or excluded from the formulations for the cosmetic compositions depending on the specific combination of other components, the form of the cosmetic compositions, and/or the use of the formulation (e.g., an aqueous solution, a lotion, gel, cream, spray, etc.).
  • the cosmetic compositions may be formulated as a hair care composition and/or a hair cosmetic composition and/or a hair treatment composition and/or a skin care composition and/or scalp care composition, e.g., for use on the hair and/or skin.
  • the cosmetic compositions include citric acid typically in an amount of about 0.1 to about 25 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of citric acid present in the cosmetic composition may be about 0.1 to about 25 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 22 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, about
  • the cosmetic compositions include one or more urea compound(s) typically in an amount of about 0.2 to about 40 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of the one or more urea compound(s) present in the cosmetic composition may be about 0.2 to about 35 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 32 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 30 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 28 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 26 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 24 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 22 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 20 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 18 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 16 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 14 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 12 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 9 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 7 w
  • the urea compounds may have a structure in accordance with the following formula:
  • Ri, R2, R3, and R4 are independently selected from hydrogens, C4 to C10 unsubstituted aryl, C4 to C10 substituted aryl, C2 to C10 unsubstituted heterocycle, C2 to C10 substituted heterocycle, Ci to C10 unsubstituted alkyl, Ci to C10 substituted alkyl, C3-C10 unsubstituted cycloalkyl, and C3-C10 substituted cycloalkyl.
  • the urea compounds are preferably chosen from is dimethyl urea, a hydroxyethyl urea, urea or mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of urea compounds include urea, urea derivatives, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, m- dimethylaminophenyl urea, dimethyl urea, a hydroxyethyl urea, N-(2- hydroxyethyl)urea;, N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea; N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea; N-(2,3- dihydroxypropyl)urea; N-(2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexyl)urea; N-methyl-N-(1 , 3, 4,5,6- pentahydroxy-2-hexyl)urea; N-methyl-N'-(1 -hydroxy-2-methyl-2-propyl)urea; N-(1 - hydroxy-2-prop
  • the total amount of water in the cosmetic composition can vary, but is typically about 20 wt.% or more based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some instances, total amount of water is about 20 to about 99 wt.%, about 20 to about 95 wt.%, about 20 to about 90 wt.%, about 20 to about 80 wt.%, about 20 to about 70 wt.%, about 20 to about 60 wt.%, about 20 to about 50 wt.%, about 20 to about 40 wt.%; about 30 to about 99 wt.%, about 30 to about 95 wt.%, about 30 to about 90 wt.%, about 30 to about 80 wt.%, about 30 to about 70 wt.%, about 30 to about 60 wt.%, about 30 to about 50 wt.%, about 30 to about 40 wt.%; about 40 to about 99 wt.%, about 40 to about 95 wt.%, about 40 to about 90 wt.%, about
  • the cosmetic composition may, optionally, include a cationic surfactant(s).
  • the amount of cationic surfactant(s) may be from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some instances, the cationic surfactant(s) are in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%; about 0.2 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 3 wt.%; about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt.%; about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 w
  • the cationic surfactants include or are chosen from cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidtrimonium
  • cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium- 15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride(Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium- 18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oletyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3)oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite,
  • the cationic surfactant(s) may also be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. In some cases it is useful to use salts such as chloride salts of the quaternary ammonium compounds.
  • the fatty amines generally comprise at least one Cs-Cso hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • quaternary ammonium salts which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those corresponding to the following general formula: in which the groups Rs to Rn , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to Rn denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C2-C30 alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-Cs)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12- C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups;
  • X s an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (C1- C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
  • quaternary ammonium salts having a structure in accordance with the above general formula (III)
  • those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts.
  • tetraalkylammonium salts for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salt
  • Examples of quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline include those having a structure according to the general formula provided below: in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a Ci- 04 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R14 preferably denotes a methyl group, and R15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R12 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids
  • R14 preferably denotes a methyl group
  • R15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Such a product is sold, for example, under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company Rewo.
  • Examples of quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those having a structure in accordance with the following general formula: in which R denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms; R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, R a, Ri7a, Risa, R18, R19, R2o and R21 , which may be identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X' is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Qua
  • cationic/cationizable surfactants which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those having a structure in accordance with the general formula provided below:
  • R4-A-R5— B wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, A is selected from: nd and B is selected from: wherein Re and R? are the same or different and are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms,
  • Rs and Rg are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, R is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms.
  • R4 is saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 10 to 24C atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 C atoms and Rs is straight or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 C atoms, and A, B, Re to R are same as above.
  • Non-limiting suitable examples are stearyloxypropyl amine, palmityloxypropyl amine, stearyloxypropyldimethyl amine, stearyloxypropyldiethyl amine, stearyloxyethylyldimethyl amine, stearyloxyethyl amine, myristyloxypropyl amine, myristyloxypropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl amine, palmitamidopropyl methylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine, palmitamidopropyl buylamine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitamidoprop
  • Cationizable surfactants may be chosen from fatty alkylamines, preferably, fatty dialkylamines.
  • Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • Fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamine compounds, their salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, my
  • Non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxyl ic acids may be used to “neutralize” the fatty dialkylamines.
  • the one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid.
  • Nonlimiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2, 6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereof are useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • cosmetic composition may be formulated with a cationic surfactant chosen from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, or mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition may be formulated such that the two or more cationic surfactants are associated with the same or different balancing anionic ions.
  • at least one of the two or more cationic surfactants may have a chloride ion and/or a sulfate ion.
  • the two or more cationic surfactants comprise cetrimonium chloride and one or both of behentrimonium methosulfate and behentrimonium chloride.
  • the two or more cationic surfactants comprise behentrimonium chloride and one or both of behentrimonium methosulfate and cetrimonium chloride.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) is chosen from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachid
  • the cosmetic compositions include one or more fatty compound(s) in amount that my vary, but is typically about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic compositions.
  • the amount of fatty compounds present in the cosmetic compositions is about 0.1 to 20 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 18 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 16 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 14 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 12 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 7 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%; about 0.5 to 20 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 18 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 16 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 14 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 12 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 10 wt.%, about
  • the cosmetic compositions may include one or more fatty compound(s) that is a fatty ester.
  • the fatty ester chosen from cetyl ester, purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, hydroxylated esters, dicaprylyl carbonate, pentaerythritol esters, diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, di-Ci2-
  • fatty esters worth mentioning include polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-8 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-10 behenate, and polyglyceryl-12 trilaurate.
  • Suitable fatty alcohols include those having a fatty group with a carbon chain of greater than 8 carbon atoms, 8 to 50 carbon atoms, 8 to 40 carbon atoms, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, 8 to 22 carbon atoms, 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.
  • the fatty group of the fatty alcohols has a carbon chain of 10 to 20 carbon atoms or 10 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohols may be chosen from polyethylene glycol ethers, such as those having a fatty alcohol group with a carbon chain of 12 to 16 or 12 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty alcohol portion is preferably hydrogenated (for example, stearyl, lauryl, cetyl, cetearyl); however, the fatty alcohol may contain one or more double bonds (for example, oleyl).
  • fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t- butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols comprise at least one of or may be chosen from myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • Exemplary saturated liquid fatty alcohols may be branched and optionally contain in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. In some instances, however, the fatty alcohols are acyclic.
  • Non-limiting examples of liquid saturated fatty alcohols include octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and 2-hexyldecanol.
  • Exemplary unsaturated liquid fatty alcohol may include in their structure at least one double or triple bond.
  • the fatty alcohols may include several double bonds (such as 2 or 3 double bond), which may be conjugated or nonconjugated.
  • the unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched and may be acyclic or include in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring.
  • Liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols may include or be chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated fatty alcohols, e.g., having about 1 to about 100 moles of an alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol.
  • the alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated with about 1 to about 80 moles, about 2 to about 50, about 5 to about 45 moles, about 10 to about 40 moles, or 15 to about 35 mores, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, of an alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol.
  • alkoxylated fatty alcohols examples include steareth-20. In some instances, the one or more alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be exclusively steareth-20.
  • Additional fatty alcohol derivatives that may, optionally be suitable include methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the ceteth series of compounds, such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcochol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth 1 through ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e.
  • the fatty compounds may be chosen from fatty ethers.
  • the cosmetic composition may include olyoxyethylene cetyl/stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene cholesterol ether, polyoxyethylene laurate or dilaurate, polyoxyethylene stearate or distearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl or stearyl ether, dicaprylyl ether, dicetyl ether distearyl ether, dodecyl ether, dilauryl ether, dimyristyl ether, diisononyl ether, or a mixture thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of suitable polyoxyethylene fatty ethers include, but are not limited to, polyoxyethylene cetyl/stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene cholesterol ether, polyoxyethylene laurate or dilaurate, polyoxyethylene stearate or distearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl or stearyl ether, and mixtures thereof, wherein the polyoxyethylene head group ranges from about 2 to about 100 groups.
  • the polyoxyethylene fatty ethers include polyoxyethylene stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene myristyl ether, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether having from about 3 to about 10 oxyethylene units and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty compounds may be chosen from fatty acids, fatty acid derivatives, esters of fatty acids, hydroxyl-substituted fatty acids, and alkoxylated fatty acids.
  • the fatty acids may be straight or branched chain acids and/or may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids as well as salts of these fatty acids.
  • the fatty acid may optionally include or be chosen from lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof.
  • the fatty acids are selected from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid, and a mixture thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include those of the following formula:
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 each may independently be a fatty acid moiety or hydrogen, provided that at least one of R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 is a fatty acid moiety.
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may be saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, and have a length of C1-C40, C1-C30, C1-C25, or C1- C20, C1-C16, or Cl-C .
  • the fatty acid derivatives are defined herein to include fatty acid esters of the fatty alcohols as defined above, fatty acid esters of the fatty alcohol derivatives as defined above when such fatty alcohol derivatives have an esterifiable hydroxyl group, fatty acid esters of alcohols other than the fatty alcohols and the fatty alcohol derivatives described above, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and a mixture thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethyleneglycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propyleneglycol monostearate, propyleneglycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and a
  • the fatty compounds may, in some instances, include or be chosen from one or more waxes.
  • waxes in this category include for example, synthetic wax, ceresin, paraffin, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, illipe butter, beeswax, carnauba, microcrystalline, lanolin, lanolin derivatives, candelilla, cocoa butter, shellac wax, spermaceti, bran wax, capok wax, sugar cane wax, montan wax, whale wax, bayberry wax, acacia decurrents flower wax, vegetable waxes (such as sunflower seed (helianthus annuus), carnauba, candelilla, ouricury or japan wax or cork fibre or sugarcane waxes), or a mixture thereof.
  • the fatty compounds may include or be chosen from one or more oil(s).
  • suitable oils include, but are not limited to, synthetic oils such as silicone oils; natural oils, such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol; esters, such as C12-C15 alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene dipelarganate; and triesters, such as glyceryl trioctanoate.
  • the cosmetic compositions include one or more polyols.
  • the amount of polyol(s) present in the cosmetic composition typically ranges from about 20 wt.% or more, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of polyol(s) in the cosmetic composition may be about 20 to about 87 wt.%, about 20 to about 85 wt.%, about 20 to about 80 wt.%, about 20 to about 75 wt.%, about 20 to about 70 wt.%, about 20 to about 65 wt.%, about 20 to about 60 wt.%, about 20 to about 55 wt.%, about 20 to about 50 wt.%, about 20 to about 45 wt.%, about 20 to about 40 wt.%, about 20 to about 35 wt.%, about 20 to about 30 wt.%; about 30 to about 87 wt.%, about 30 to about 85 wt.%, about 30 to about 80 wt.%, about 30 to about
  • polyol should be understood as meaning, within the meaning of the present disclosure, an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols of the cosmetic composition may be glycols or compounds with numerous hydroxyl groups.
  • the one or more polyols is/are selected from the group consisting of C2-C32 polyols.
  • the one or more polyols may be liquid at ambient temperature (25°C).
  • the one or more polyols may have from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 12 carbon atoms.
  • Polyols that may be included in the cosmetic composition include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, diethylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol is propylene glycol.
  • the polyol is one or both of propylene glycol and butylene glycol.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises at least propylene glycol, and optionally one or more polyols other than propylene glycol.
  • Non-limiting examples of polyols that may, optionally, be included in the cosmetic include and/or may be chosen from alkanediols such as glycerin, 1 ,2,6- hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3- hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1 ,2-hexanediol, 1 ,2- pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1 ,2-pentanediol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether
  • the one or more polyols may, optionally, be glycols or glycol ethers such as, e.g., monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, e.g., monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, e.g., monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
  • glycols or glycol ethers such as, e.g., monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, e.g., monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, e
  • the one or more polyols may include or are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1 ,3- propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 1 ,5-pentanediol, hexane-1 ,6-diol, glycerin, diglycerin, caprylyl glycol, and a mixture thereof.
  • the cosmetic compositions described herein may, optionally, include a thickening agent.
  • the amount of thickening agents can vary but is typically from about 0.01 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of fatty compounds present in the cosmetic compositions is about 0.1 to 20 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 18 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 16 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 14 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 12 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 7 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%; about 0.5 to 20 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 18 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 16 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 14 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 12 wt
  • the thickening agent(s) may be chosen from xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia seneca gum, sclerotium gum, agarose, pechtin, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid. Additionally, the one or more thickening agents may include polymeric thickening agents selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, acrylates copolymers, polyacrylamide, carbomer, and acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.
  • the composition includes ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate and/or sodium polyacrylate.
  • Suitable thickening agents may be found in US Patent Application no. 16/731 ,654, which is incorporated herein, in its entirety for all purposes.
  • thickening agents are water-soluble, and increase the viscosity of water or form an aqueous gel when the cosmetic composition of the invention is dispersed/dissolved in water.
  • the aqueous solution may be heated and cooled, or neutralized, for forming the gel, if necessary.
  • the thickener may be dispersed/dissolved in an aqueous solvent that is soluble in water, e.g., ethyl alcohol when it is dispersed/dissolved in water.
  • thickening agents include the following:
  • thickening agents can optionally be included in the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure.
  • Thickening agents may be referred to as “thickeners” or “viscosity modifying agents.” Thickening agents are typically included to increase the viscosity of the cosmetic compositions. Nonetheless, in some instances, certain thickening agents provide additional, surprising benefits to the cosmetic compositions.
  • Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include polyacrylate crosspolymers or crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, cationic acrylate copolymers, anionic acrylic or carboxylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives, gums, polyquaterniums, vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers/copolymers, C8-24 hydroxyl substituted aliphatic acid, C8-24 conjugated aliphatic acid, sugar fatty esters, polyglyceryl esters, and a mixture thereof.
  • Particular types of thickening agents that may be mentioned include the following:
  • Carboxylic acid or carboxylate based homopolymer or co-polymer which can be linear or crosslinked:
  • polymers contain one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids (acrylates) and the substituted acrylic acids.
  • Commercially available polymers include those sold under the trade names CARBOPOL, ACRYSOL, POLYGEL, SOKALAN, CARBOPOL ULTREZ, and POLYGEL.
  • Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include the carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerytritol. The carbomers are available as the CARBOPOL 900 series from B.F. Goodrich (e.g., CARBOPOL 954).
  • other suitable carboxylic acid polymeric agents include ULTREZ 10 (B.F.
  • These copolymers are known as acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers and are commercially available as CARBOPOL 1342, CARBOPOL 1382, PEMULEN TR-1 , and PEMULEN TR-2, from B.F. Goodrich.
  • carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymeric agents include copolymers of acrylic acid and alkyl C5-C10 acrylate, copolymers of acrylic acid and maleic anhydride, and polyacrylate crosspolymer-6.
  • Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is aviable in the raw material known as SEPIMAX ZEN from Seppic.
  • Another suitable carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymeric agent includes acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylates copolymer, a cationic acrylates copolymer (or a quaternary ammonium compound), available as a raw maerial known under the tradename of SIMULQUAT HC 305 from Seppic.
  • the carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymer thickening agents useful herein are those selected from carbomers, acrylates/C10-C30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymers, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples include polyquaternium-1 , polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11 , polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21 , polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41 , polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-
  • Non-limiting examples of celluloses include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cellulose is selected from water-soluble cellulose derivatives (for example, carboxymethyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, cellulose sulfate sodium salt).
  • the cellulose is preferably hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC).
  • PVP Polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • Non-limiting examples include Polyvinylpyrrolidone(PVP), Polyvinylpyrrolidone(PVP)/vinyl acetate copolymer (PVP/VA copolymer), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)/eicosene copolymer, PVP/hexadecene copolymer, etc.
  • Commercially available polyvinylpyrrolidone includes LUVISKOL K30, K85, K90 available from BASF.
  • Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylacetate include LUVISKOL VA37, VA64 available from BASF; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide, and vinylimidazole (INCI: VP/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer) is commercially available as LUVISET from BASF. In some instances, PVP and PVP/VA copolymer are preferred.
  • Non-limiting examples include sucrose palmitate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose mono- or dilaurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose mono- or dipalmitate, sucrose mono- and distearate, sucrose mono-, di- or trioleate, sucrose mono- or dilinoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate or sucrose octooleate, and mixed esters, such as sucrose palmitate/stearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include those of the following formula:
  • R 1-(OCH 2 - ICH-CH 2 O) n -R 3 wherein n is from 2 to 20 or from 2 to 10 or from 2 to 5, or is 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10, and R 1 , R 2 and R 3 each may independently be a fatty acid moiety or hydrogen, provided that at least one of R 1 , R 2 , and R 3 is a fatty acid moiety.
  • R 1 , R 2 and R 3 may be saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched, and have a length of C1-C40, C1-C30, C1-C25, or Ci-C2o, C1-C16, orCi-C .
  • nonionic polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include polyglyceryl-4 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of gums include gum arabic, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum, locust bean gum, Seneca gum, sclerotium gum, gellan gum, etc.
  • the cosmetic compositions may include one or more water-soluble solvents.
  • the amount of water-soluble solvents in the cosmetic composition, if present, may range from about 1 to about 35 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may include water-soluble solvents in an amount of about 1 to about 35 wt.%, about 1 to about 30 wt.%, about 1 to about 25 wt.%, about 1 to about 20 wt.%, about 1 to about 18 wt.%, about 1 to about 16 wt.%, about 1 to about 14 wt.%, about 1 to about 12 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%; about 5 to about 35 wt.%, about 5 to about 30 wt.%, about 5 to about 25 wt.%, about 5 to about 20 wt.%, about 5 to about 18 wt.%, about 5 to about 16 wt.%, about 5 to about 14 wt.%, about 5 to about 12 wt.%, about 5 to about 10 wt.%; about 10 to about 35 wt.%, about 10 to about 30 wt.%, about 10 to about 25 wt.%, about 1 to about 20 wt.
  • water-soluble solvent is interchangeable with the term “water- miscible solvent” and means a compound that is liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and it has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%.
  • water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (for example, C1-30, C1-15, C1-10, or Ci-4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols (polyhydric alcohols), glycols (e.g., butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, etc.), and a mixture thereof.
  • the water-soluble solvent is a monoalcohol.
  • monoalcohols include ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cyclohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl-2-butanol (2-methylbutan- 2-ol), and a mixture thereof.
  • the monoalcohols comprise or are chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, an isomer thereof, or a combination thereof.
  • the one or more monoalcohol(s) includes or consists of ethanol.
  • organic solvents non-limiting mentions can be made of monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
  • the water-soluble solvents may be organic solvents that can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.
  • water-soluble solvents include alkanediols such as glycerin, 1 ,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1 ,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4- pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1 ,2-hexanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1 ,2- pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol, and isopropanol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl;
  • the cosmetic composition includes silicone(s) typically in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of silicone(s) present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%; about 0.2 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 3 wt.%; about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 6 wt.%, about 1 to about 4 wt.%, about 1 to about 3 wt.%; about 1 .5 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 .5 to about 8 w
  • amino-functionalized silicone or “amino silicones” means a silicone containing at least one primary amino, secondary amino, tertiary amino and/or quaternary ammonium group.
  • the structure of the amino-functionalized silicone may be linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic.
  • the amino functional group may be at any position in the silicone molecule, preferably at the end of the backbone (for example, in the case of amodimethicones) and/or in the side chain.
  • Non-limiting examples of silicones include amine-functionalized silicones (e.g., amodimethicone), dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethyl silylamodimethicone, dimethicone copolyols, etc.
  • amine-functionalized silicones e.g., amodimethicone
  • dimethicone dimethicone
  • bis-aminopropyl dimethicone bis-aminopropyl dimethicone
  • trimethyl silylamodimethicone dimethicone copolyols
  • the cosmetic composition may include, in some instances, one or more silicones chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols),
  • the one or more silicones may be or include one or more dimethicone copolyols.
  • the copolyols may be chosen from Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicon
  • the silicone(s) may, optionally, include or be chosen from a siloxane with a methacrylic group on one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane containing a styryl group on one of its molecular ends, or a similar silicone compound containing unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether; an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, of itaconic acid, of cratonic acid, of maleic acid or of fumaric acid; a radical-polymerizable unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic acid group such as a styrenesulfonic acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid, such as 2-hydroxy
  • the silicones optionally, include or are chosen from siloxanes having an organo functional group, such as polyalkylsiloxanes, where at least one alkyl radical is different than methyl, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Stearyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone or C26-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, or, for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone or Dimethylphenyl Dimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having an organofunctional radical such as an aminopropyl, aminopropyl-aminoethyl, aminopropyl-aminoisobutyl radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Amodimethicone,
  • an amino-functionalized silicones is selected from compounds having the following formula: wherein each R 1 is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C1-30 alkoxy group, a C5-30 aryl group, a C6-30 aralkyl group, a C6-30 aralkyloxy group, a Ci-3o alkaryl group, a C1-30 alkoxyaryl group, and a hydroxy group (preferably, each R 1 is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C1-30 alkoxy group and a hydroxy group); each R 2 is independently a divalent alkylene radical having one to ten carbon atoms (preferably, R 2 is a divalent alkylene radical having three to six carbon atoms); each R 3 is independently selected from a C1-30 alkyl group, a C5-30 aryl group, a C6-30 aralkyl group and a Ci-3o alkaryl group (preferably, each R 3 is independently selected from of a C1-30 al
  • Q is a monovalent radical selected from -NR 4 2 and -NR 4 (CH2) X NR 4 2; each R 4 is independently selected from a hydrogen and a C1-4 alkyl group; x is 2 to 6; z is 0 or 1 ; n is 25 to 3,000 (preferably, 25 to 2,000; more preferably, 25 to 1 ,000; most preferably 25 to 500); and m is 0 to 3,000 (preferably, 0 to 2,000; more preferably, 0 to 1 ,000; most preferably, 0 to 100); with the proviso that at least 50 mol% of the total number of R 1 and R 3 groups are methyl and with the proviso that when m is 0, z is 1.
  • R 1 groups include methyl, methoxy, ethyl, ethoxy, propyl, propoxy, isopropyl, isopropoxy, butyl, butoxy, isobutyl, isobutoxy, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl, tolyl and hydoxy.
  • Preferred R 2 divalent alkylene radicals include trimethylene, tetramethylene, pentamethylene, -CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH2- and -CH2CH 2 CH(CH 3 )CH2-.
  • Preferred R 3 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, phenyl, xenyl, benzyl, phenylethyl and tolyl.
  • Preferred R 4 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutyl.
  • the amino-functionalized silicine has only pendant amine functional substituents in the polymer chain.
  • n + m is 50 to 1 ,000. More preferably, n + m is 50 to 750. Still more preferably, n + m is 50 to 500. Most preferably, n + m is 50 to 250.
  • the amino-functionalized silicones are alkoxylated and/or hydroxylated amino silicones.
  • Suitable alkoxylated and/or hydroxylated amino silicones may be selected from compounds of the following formula: wherein R3 is hydroxyl or ORs, Rs is a Ci to C4 alkyl group, R4 is a group with structure according to the following formula: - CH 2 CH CH 2 NH (CH 2 ) n NH 2
  • Re is a Ci to C4 alkyl
  • n is a 1 to 4
  • x is the same as “n” described above
  • y is the same as “m” described above.
  • the silicone may be a polysiloxane corresponding to the following formula: in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is comprised between about 5000 and 500 000; b) amino silicones corresponding to following formula:
  • G which may be identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH or Ci-Cs alkyl group, for example methyl, or Ci-Cs alkoxy, for example methoxy, a, which may be identical or different, denote the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0; b denotes 0 or 1 , and in particular 1 ; m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10; R', which may be identical or different, denote a monovalent radical having formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:
  • R which may be identical or different, denote hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical, for example a C1-C20 alkyl radical
  • Q denotes a linear or branched CrH2r group, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4
  • A- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
  • silicones having the following formula: in which: m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 1000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;
  • Ri, R2, RS which may be identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C1-C4 alkoxy radical, where at least one of the radicals R1 to Rs denotes an alkoxy radical.
  • the alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly equals 0.3:1.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2,000 to 1 ,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.
  • Another group of amino silicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula: in which: p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) ranges from 1 to 1000, particularly from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; it being possible for p to denote a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and for q to denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;
  • the alkoxy radical is preferably a methoxy radical.
  • the hydroxy/alkoxy mole ratio ranges generally from 1 :0.8 to 1 :1.1 and preferably from 1 :0.9 to 1 :1 and more particularly equals 1 :0.95.
  • n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
  • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 2000 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200 000.
  • n and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, it being possible for n to denote a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and for m to denote a number from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;
  • A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones ranges preferably from 500 to 1 000 000 and even more particularly from 1000 to 200 000.
  • Rs represents a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a Ci-Cis alkyl or C2-C18 alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
  • Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
  • Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate); r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8; s represents a mean statistical value from 20 to 200 and in particular from 20 to 50.
  • R7 which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbonbased radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
  • Re represents a divalent hydrocarbon-based radical, in particular a C1-C18 alkylene radical or a divalent C1-C18, for example Ci-Cs, alkylenoxy radical linked to the Si via an SiC bond;
  • R which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl radical, a C2-C18 alkenyl radical or a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;
  • X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate); r represents a mean statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to
  • a group of quaternary ammonium silicones is represented by the following formula:
  • Ri, R2, R3 and R4 which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group;
  • R denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group
  • n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5
  • x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g
  • Said silicones are preferably constituted of repeating units having the following general formulae:
  • a is an integer greater than or equal to 1 , preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
  • b is an integer comprised between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between from 5 and 30;
  • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10 000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;
  • R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl
  • R which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a - CH2CH2CH2OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially R denotes a - CH2CH 2 CH 2 OCH(OH)CH2- radical;
  • R' which may be identical or different, represent a divalent linear or branched C2-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a - CH2CH 2 CH 2 OCH(OH)CH2- radical; preferentially R' denotes -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -.
  • the siloxane blocks preferably represent between 50 and 95 mol% of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85 mol%.
  • the amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone oil is preferably comprised between 5000 and 1 ,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.
  • the silicone may be selected from those having at least one quaternary ammonium group. Suitable non-limiting examples are quaternium 80, silicone quaternium-1 , silicone quaternium-2, silicone quaternium-2 panthenol succinate, silicone quaternium-3, silicone quaternium-4, silicone quaternium-5, silicone quaternium-6, silicone quaternium-7, silicone quaternium-8, silicone quaternium-9, silicone quaternium-10, silicone quaternium-11 , silicone quaternium-12, silicone quaternium-15, silicone quaternium-16, silicone quaternium-16/Glycidoxy Dimethicone Crosspolymer, silicone quaternium-17, silicone quaternium-18, silicone quaternium-20 and silicone quaternium-21.
  • quaternium 80 silicone quaternium-16, silicone quaternium-18, silicone quaternium-1 , silicone quaternium-2, silicone quaternium-3, silicone quaternium-4, silicone quaternium-5, silicone quaternium-6, silicone quaternium-7, silicone quaternium-8, silicone quaternium-9, silicone quaternium-10, silicone quaternium-11 , silicone quaternium-12, silicone quaternium-15, silicone quaternium-17, silicone quaternium-20 and silicone quaternium-21.
  • quaternium 80 silicone quaternium-16, silicone quaternium-18, silicone quaternium-3, silicone quaternium-4, silicone quaternium-5, silicone quaternium-6, silicone quaternium-7, silicone quaternium-8, silicone quaternium-9, silicone quaternium-10, silicone quaternium-11 , silicone quaternium- 12, silicone quaternium-15, and silicone quaternium-17.
  • the one or more silicone oils of the present disclosure is a non-amino silicone oil such as a dimethicone.
  • Non-limiting examples of amino-functionalized silicones include bis- hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicones, bis-cetearyl amodimethicone, amodimethicone, bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicones, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicones, aminopropyl dimethicones, bis-amino PEG/PPG-41/3 aminoethyl PG-propyl dimethicones, caprylyl methicones, and a mixture thereof.
  • a particularly useful amino-functionalized silicone is bis-hydroxy /methoxy amodimethicone, wherein X is isobutyl and one of the R is OH and the other is OCH3 in the above structure, also known as “ Bis- Hydroxy/M ethoxy Amodimethicone” and “3-[(2-aminoethyl)amino]-2-methylpropyl Me, di-Me, [(hydroxydimethylsilyl)oxy]- and [(methoxydimethylsilyl)oxy]-terminated.”
  • Bis-hydroxy/methoxy amodimethicone is commercially available under the tradename DOWSIL AP-8087 FLUID from The Dow Chemical Company.
  • a product containing amino silicones having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name FLUID WR 1300.
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone ranges preferably from 2,000 to 200,000, even more particularly 5,000 to 100,000 and more particularly from 10,000 to 50,000.
  • the silicone(s) in the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure are included in the form of a silicone emulsion comprising at least one silicone and at least one surfactants, for example, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, anionic surfactants.
  • the silicone emulsions can be nanoemulsions, microemulsions or macroemulsions.
  • nonionic surfactants are alkoxylated fatty alcohols or polyethylene glycol ethers of mixtures of C8-C30 fatty alcohols with an average of number of moles of ethylene oxide such as C11-15 Pareth-7, laureth-9, laureth-12, deceth-7, deceth-10, trideceth-6, trideceth- 10, trideceth-12, or a mixture thereof.
  • Suitable examples of amphoteric surfactants are cocam idopropyl betaine, coco-betaine, or a mixture thereof.
  • Suitable examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds such as behentrimonium chloride, cetrimoinium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, or a mixture thereof.
  • Suitable examples of anionic surfactants are sulfate-based compounds such as further comprises up to 5 wt.% of a surfactant, for example, sodium (or ammonium) lauryl sulfate, sodium(or ammonium) laureth sulfate, or mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic compositions may, optionally, include one or more cationic polymers.
  • the amount of cationic polymers in the cosmetic composition typically ranges from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cationic polymers are in an amount ranging from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%; about 0.2 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 3 wt.%; about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 6 wt.%, about 1 to about 4 wt.%, about 1 to about 3 wt.%; about 1 .5 to about
  • the cationic polymers can comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium-substituted monomer and/or compatible spacer monomers.
  • Suitable cationic polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1 -vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3-methyl-imidazolium salt (e.g., chloride salt) (referred to as Polyquaternium-16) such as those commercially available from BASF under the LUVIQUAT tradename (e.g., LUVIQUAT FC 370); copolymers of 1-vinyl-2- pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to as Polyquaternium-11) such as those commercially from Gar Corporation (Wayne, N.J., USA) under the GAFQUAT tradename (e.g., GAFQUAT 755N); and cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium-containing polymer including, for example, dimethyldiallyammoni
  • cationic polymers that may be used include polysaccharide polymers, such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives.
  • Cationic cellulose is available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, N.J., USA) in their Polymer JR (trademark) and LR (trade mark) series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with trimethyl ammonium substituted epoxide (referred to as Polyquaternium-10).
  • Another type of cationic cellulose includes the polymeric quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with lauryl dimethyl ammonium-substituted epoxide (referred to as Polyquaternium-24).
  • the cationic conditioning polymers may include or be chosen from cationic guar gum derivatives, such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
  • the cosmetic composition may include or be chosen from polyquaterniums.
  • the cosmetic composition may include Polyquaternium-1 (ethanol, 2, 2', 2" -nitrilotris-, polymer with 1 ,4-dichloro-2-butene and N,N,N',N'-tetramethyl-2- butene-1 ,4-diamine), Polyquaternium-2, (poly[bis(2-chloroethyl) ether-alt-1 ,3-bis[3- (dimethylamino)propyl]urea]), Polyquaternium-4, (hydroxyethyl cellulose dimethyl diallylammonium chloride copolymer; Diallyldimethylammonium chloridehydroxyethyl cellulose copolymer), Polyquaternium-5 (copolymer of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylammoniumethyl methacrylate), Polyquaternium-6 (poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride)), Polyquaternium-7 (copo
  • the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure include one or more cationic polymers selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (e.g., polyquaternium-10), cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar gum derivatives, copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (e.g., polyquaternium-7), polyquaterniums, and a mixture thereof.
  • cationic polymers selected from cationic cellulose derivatives, quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (e.g., polyquaternium-10), cationic starch derivatives, cationic guar gum derivatives, copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallyammonium chloride (e.g., polyquaternium-7), polyquaterniums, and a mixture thereof.
  • the cationic polymer(s) may be selected from polyquaterniums, for example, polyquaterniums selected from polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-67 and a mixture thereof.
  • polyquaterniums selected from polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-37, polyquaternium-39, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-67 and a mixture thereof.
  • a combination of two or more polyquaterniums can be useful.
  • the one or more cationic polymers is chosen from polyquaternium 4, polyquaternium 6, polyquaternium 7, polyquaternium 10, polyquaternium 11 , polyquaternium 16, polyquaternium 22, polyquaternium 28, polyquaternium 32, polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-51 , polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium-58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, polyquaternium-70, polyquaternium-73, polyquaternium-74, polyquaternium-75, polyquaternium-76, polyquaternium-77, polyquaternium-78, polyquaternium-79, polyquaternium-80, polyquaternium-81 , polyquaternium-82, poly
  • the cosmetic compositions may, optionally, include one or more nonionic surfactants.
  • the amount of nonionic surfactants typically range from about 0.05 to about 6 wt.% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the total weight of the plurality of nonionic surfactants may range from about 0.05 to about 6 wt.%, 0.05 to about 5 wt.%, 0.05 to about 4 wt.%, 0.05 to about 3 wt.%; from 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, 0.1 to about 3 wt.%; from 0.5 to about 6 wt.%, 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, 0.5 to about 4 wt.%, 0.5 to about 3 wt.%; from 0.8 to about 6 wt.%, 0.8 to about 5 wt.%, 0.8 to about 4 wt.%, 0.8 to about 3 wt.%; from
  • glyceryl esters of fatty acids glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (INCI name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof can be cited.
  • glyceryl esters of C8-C24 alkoxylated fatty acids polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate can for example be cited.
  • nonionic surfactants may comprise or be selected from alkanolamides, polyglucosides, sorbitan derivatives (not including the hydration of sorbitan to derive sorbitol), and polyol esters.
  • Non-limiting examples of alkanolamides include fatty acid alkanolamides.
  • the fatty acid alkanolamides may be fatty acid monoalkanolamides or fatty acid dialkanolamides or fatty acid isoalkanolamides, and may have a C2-8 hydroxyalkyl group (the C2-8 chain can be substituted with one or more than one -OH group).
  • Non-limiting examples include fatty acid diethanolamides (DEA) or fatty acid monoethanolamides (MEA), fatty acid monoisopropanolamides (MIPA), fatty acid diisopropanolamides (DIPA), and fatty acid glucamides (acyl glucamides).
  • Suitable fatty acid alkanolamides may include those formed by reacting an alkanolamine and a Ce-Cse fatty acid. Examples include, but are not limited to: oleic acid diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soya fatty acids diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide, oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (Stearamide MEA), behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide (isostearamide MIPA), erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoisopropanolamide (cocoamide MIPA), coconut acid monoethanolamide (Cocamide MEA), palm kernel fatty acid diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, polyoxyethylene coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauri
  • the fatty acid alkanolamides preferably include cocamide MIPA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DIPA, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty acid alkanolamide may be cocamide MIPA, which is commercially available under the tradename EMPILAN from I nnospec Active Chemicals.
  • Fatty acid alkanolamides include those of the following structure: wherein R4 is an alkyl chain of 4 to 20 carbon atoms (R4 may be, for example, selected from lauric acid, coconut acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, babassu fatty acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, corn fatty acid, soy fatty acid, shea butter fatty acids, caprylic acid, capric acid, and mixtures thereof); wherein Rs is selected from -CH2OH, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, -CH 2 (CHOH)4CH 2 OH, - benzyl, and mixtures thereof; and wherein Re is selected from -H, -CH3, -CH2OH, - CH2CH3, -CH2CH2OH, -CH2CH2CH2OH, ⁇ CH 2 (CHOH)4CH 2 OH, -benzyl, and mixtures thereof.
  • R4 is an al
  • the one or more of the fatty acid alkanolamides include one or more acyl glucamides, e.g., acyl glucamides having a carbon chain length of 8 to 20.
  • Non-limiting examples include lauroyl/myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl/capryl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, capryl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl/caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, lauryl methylglucamide, oleoyl methylglucamide oleate, stearoyl methylglucamide stearate, sunfloweroyl methylglucamide, and tocopheryl succinate methylglucamide
  • the one or more alkyl polyglucosides include those chosen from lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and a mixture thereof.
  • the alkyl polyglucosides includes or is chosen from lauryl glucoside.
  • the alkyl polyglucosides may be chosen from glycerol (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycosides including, e.g., polyethoxylated fatty acid mono or diesters of glycerol (C6-C24)alkylpolyglycosides.
  • Additional alkyl polyglucosides that may be suitably incorporated, in some instances, in the cosmetic composition includes alkyl polyglucosides having a structure according to the following formula:
  • R 2 is an ethylene or propylene group
  • Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbon atoms; n is an integer from 0 to 10; and x is an integer from 1 to 5.
  • Useful alkyl poly glucosides may, in some instances, include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate.
  • the at least one alkyl poly glucoside compound is selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and coco glucoside. In some instances, decyl glucoside is particularly preferred.
  • Suitable sorbitan derivatives that may be incorporated into the plurality of nonionic surfactants include those chosen from polysorbate-20 (POE(20) sorbitan monolaurate), polysorbate-21 (POE(4) sorbitan monolaurate), polysorbate-40 (POE(20) sorbitan monopalmitate), polysorbate-60 (POE(20) sorbitan monostearate), polysorbate-61 (POE(4) sorbitan monostearate), polysorbate-65 (POE(20) sorbitan tristearate), polysorbate-80 (POE(20)sorbitan monooleate), polysorbate-81 (POE(4) sorbitan monooleate), polysorbate 85 (POE(20) Sorbitan Trioleate), sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan
  • sorbitan esters including, e.g., esters of C16-C22 fatty acid and of sorbitan that were formed by esterification, with sorbitol, of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl chain respectively having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • esters can be chosen in particular from sorbitan stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates or oleates, and their mixtures.
  • optional sorbitan esters examples include sorbitan monostearate (INCI name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by Croda under the name Span 60, the sorbitan tristearate sold by Croda under the name Span 65 V, the sorbitan monopalmitate (INCI name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by Croda under the name Span 40, the sorbitan monooleate sold by Croda under the name Span 80 V or the sorbitan trioleate sold by Uniqema under the name Span 85 V.
  • a preferable sorbitan ester is sorbitan tristearate.
  • Non-limiting examples of polyol esters include those chosen from alkoxylated polyol esters.
  • the alkoxylated polyol esters may be chosen from pegylated derivatives of propylene glycol oleate, propylene glycol caprylate/caprate, propylene glycol cocoate, propylene glycol stearate, and a mixture thereof.
  • the alkoxylated polyol esters are chosen from PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-6 propylene glycol caprylate/caprate, PEG-8 propylene glycol cocoate, PEG-25 propylene glycol stearate, and PEG-120 propylene glycol stearate, and a mixture thereof.
  • the polyol ester is or includes PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate. Additionally and/or alternatively, the polyol esters may be chosen from ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • the polyol ester may be selected from esters of polyols with fatty acids with a saturated or unsaturated chain containing for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or acids and alkoxylated derivatives thereof, preferably with a number of alkyleneoxide of from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of a C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, fatty acid or
  • ethoxylated fatty esters examples include the adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, especially those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (as the INCI names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (as the INCI names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (as the INCI names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (as the INCI names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EG monostearate (INCI name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.
  • PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate as the INCI
  • Sources of unsaturated polyol esters of glycerol include synthesized oils, natural oils (e.g., vegetable oils, algae oils, bacterial derived oils, and animal fats), combinations of these, and the like.
  • vegetable oils include Abyssinian oil, Almond oil, Apricot oil, Apricot Kernel oil, Argan oil, Avocado oil, Babassu oil, Baobab oil, Black Cumin oil, Black Currant oil, Borage oil, Camelina oil, Carinata oil, Canola oil, Castor oil, Cherry Kernel oil, Coconut oil, Corn oil, Cottonseed oil, Echium oil, Evening Primrose oil, Flax Seed oil, Grape Seed oil, Grapefruit Seed oil, Hazelnut oil, Hemp Seed oil, Jatropha oil, Jojoba oil, Kukui Nut oil, Linseed oil, Macadamia Nut oil, Meadowfoam Seed oil, Moringa oil, Neem oil, Olive oil, Palm oil, Palm Kernel oil, Pe
  • Non-limiting examples of animal fats include lard, tallow, chicken fat, yellow grease, fish oil, emu oil, combinations of these, and the like.
  • Non-limiting example of a synthesized oil includes tall oil, which is a byproduct of wood pulp manufacture.
  • the natural oil is refined, bleached, and/or deodorized.
  • the polyol esters may optionally be a natural polyol esters chosen from vegetable oil, an animal fat, an algae oil and mixtures thereof; and said synthetic polyol ester is derived from a material selected from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, poly(tetramethylene ether) glycol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, tripentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, neopentyl glycol, a sugar, in one aspect, sucrose, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more pH adjusters to increase or decrease the overall pH of the cosmetic composition.
  • one or more acids may be included to decrease the pH of the cosmetic composition.
  • suitable acids for decreasing the pH of the cosmetic composition include, but are not limited to, citric acid, acetic acid, and the like.
  • the cosmetic composition may include one or more bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the like, to increase the pH of the cosmetic composition. Additional or alternative acids and bases that are suitable for adjusting the pH of the cosmetic composition are readily known to one of ordinary skill in the art.
  • the amount of the pH adjuster in the cosmetic composition may be based on the desired pH of the final cosmetic composition and/or product.
  • the cosmetic composition may have an amount of pH adjusters such that the pH of the composition is about 3 to about 7, preferably about 3.5 to about 6.5, preferably about 3.5 to about 6, or preferably about 3.5 to about 5.5.
  • the amount of the pH adjuster in the cosmetic composition may be based on the desired pH of the final cosmetic composition and/or product.
  • the total amount of the pH adjuster may range from about 0.05 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of pH adjuster is from about 0.05 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, or about 0.12 to about 5 wt.%, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions may, optionally, include monoalcohol(s), such as those having 1 to 10 carbons, preferably, from 2 to 6 carbons.
  • the amount of monoalcohol present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of monoalcohol present in the cosmetic composition may range from about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%; about 0.2 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.2 to about 3 wt.%; about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 to about 6 wt.%, about 1 to about 4 wt.%, about 1 to about 3 wt.%; about 1 .5 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 .5 to about 8 wt.%, about 1 .5 to about 6 wt.%, about 1 .5 to about 4 wt.%, about 1 .5 to to about
  • the one or more monoalcohols of the cosmetic composition may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cyclohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl-2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol), and a mixture thereof.
  • the monoalcohols comprise or are chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, an isomer thereof, or a combination thereof.
  • the one or more monoalcohol(s) includes or consists of ethanol.
  • the cosmetic compositions may optionally include esters, such as ester oils chosen from one or more diester, one or more triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of diesters present in the cosmetic composition may range from, e.g., about 0.05 to about 4.5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3.5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 2.5 wt.%; about 0.5 to about 2 wt.%, or about 0.5 to about 1 .5 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of diesters present in the cosmetic composition is about 0.05. 0.1 , 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, 0.5, 0.75, 1 , 1.25, 1 .5, 1 .75, 2, 2.25, 2.5, 2.75, 3 wt.%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • Non-limiting examples of liquid esters include fatty esters from a C6-C32 fatty acid and/or a C6-C32 fatty alcohol, and are liquid at 25°C., 1 atm. These esters may be liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C25 aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 10. In some cases, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention result is branched.
  • ethyl palmitate isopropyl palmitate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • Cetyl Esters is a mixture of the following esters of saturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols: cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate, myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate, and stearyl stearate.
  • Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.
  • Non-limiting liquid esters (ester oils) or liquid fatty esters that may be mentioned include, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, coconut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter oil.
  • sunflower oil sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil
  • the esters of the present disclosure may also further comprise solid fatty acid esters and/or fatty acid esters including solid esters obtained from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C25 fatty alcohols.
  • solid fatty acid esters and/or fatty acid esters including solid esters obtained from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C25 fatty alcohols.
  • esters mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myr
  • the one or more esters of the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure include one or more diesters, in particular, diester oils, chosen from diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, di-Ci2- 13 alkyl malate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, and mixtures thereof.
  • diester oils chosen from diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, di-Ci2- 13 alkyl malate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, di
  • the cosmetic composition may, optionally, include chelating agents.
  • the amount of chelating agent present in the cosmetic composition may be, e.g., about 0.01 to about 20 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 3 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 2 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 1 wt.%; about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 4 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 3 wt.%, about
  • Non-limiting examples of chemical chelating agents include aminotrimethyl phosphonic acid, R>-alanine diacetic acid, cyclodextrin, cyclohexanediamine tetracetic acid, diethylenetriamine pentamethylene phosphonic acid, diethanolamine N-acetic acid, ethylene diamine tetracetic acid (EDTA or YH4) and its sodium (YHsNa, Y2H2Na2, YHNas and YNa4), potassium (YH3K, Y2H3K3 and YK4), calcium disodium, and diammonium salts and its salts with triethanolamine (TEA-EDTA), etidronic acid, galactanic acid, hydroxyethyl ethylenediamine tetracetic acid (HEDTA) and its trisodium salt, gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its trisodium salt, pentetic acid,
  • the chelating agent is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.
  • Preservatives may be included in the cosmetic composition in an amount typically from about 0.01 to about 20 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 18 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 16 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 14 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 12 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 7 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.01 to about 5 wt.%; about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 18 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 16 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 14 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 12 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 7 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 6 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 5 wt.
  • Non-limiting examples of preservatives include sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, phenoxyethanol, salicylic acid, tocopherol, chlorphenesin, BHT, disodium EDTA, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, and mixtures thereof. Kits
  • kits which include cosmetic compositions as discussed herein.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the instant disclosure are hair cosmetic or hair treatment compositions.
  • kits may include at least one cosmetic composition according to the instant disclosure, such as a hair cosmetic and/or hair treatment composition, and one or more additional compositions, such as a shampoo, a conditioner, etc.
  • additional compositions such as a shampoo, a conditioner, etc.
  • the various compositions are separately contained in the kits.
  • the kits include one or more cosmetic compositions, such as a hair cosmetic and/or hair treatment composition, according to the instant disclosure, a shampoo, a conditioner, a mask, and/or other hair treatment products, all of which are separately contained.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the kit may be packaged in a variety of different containers, such as, for example, a ready-to-use container.
  • suitable packaging include tubes, jars, caps, unit dose packages, and bottles, including squeezable tubes, bottles, and sprayable containers.
  • the packaging may be configured so that it can be attached to a wall, such as a wall in a bathroom, including walls of a shower or tub.
  • the packaging can be a container that is configured to attach to a wall, such that when pressure is applied to the container, the composition contained therein is expelled from one or more openings in the container.
  • the packaging is a tube, such as a tube with two compartments, or dual tubes, each forming a separate compartment.
  • Each compartment may include a different composition.
  • one tube or compartment may include a cosmetic composition according to the instant disclosure, and the other tube may include a composition to be used with the cosmetic composition, for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, an all-in-one shampoo/conditioner (i.e. , a conditioning shampoo; also referred to as a “co-wash”) mask or other cosmetic products.
  • a cosmetic composition for example, a shampoo, a conditioner, an all-in-one shampoo/conditioner (i.e. , a conditioning shampoo; also referred to as a “co-wash”) mask or other cosmetic products.
  • the methods for producing cosmetic compositions typically include: (I) producing a deep eutectic solvent system comprising:
  • the method may further include forming the deep eutectic solvent (DES) system of (I) by mixing the citric acid and urea compound(s) in certain ratios, e.g., as discussed herein.
  • the DES system may be formed at room temperatures, e.g., when the citric acid and urea compounds mix as liquids at room temperature.
  • the method also includes heating a mixture/combination of the citric acid and the urea compound to a temperature of about 70°C to about 90°C. Heating the mixture/combination of citric acid and urea compounds is typically beneficial when the citric acid and urea compounds do not mix as liquids at room temperature.
  • the mixture/combination of citric acid and urea compounds may be heated to a temperature, such that the citric acid and urea compounds mix as liquids.
  • the mixture/combination of citric acid and urea compounds may be heated to a temperature of about 75°C to about 90°C, about 80°C to about 90°C, about 85°C to about 90°C, about 70°C to about 85°C, about 75°C to about 85°C, about 80°C to about 85°C, about 70°C to about 80°C, about 75°C to about 80°C, or about 70°C to about 75°C, or any ranges or subranges thereof.
  • the method may include producing a base of the cosmetic composition by combining one or more components, such as fatty compounds, polyols, thickening agents, water-soluble solvents, silicone oils, etc.
  • a base of the cosmetic composition may be heated, mixed, and/or receive shear forces, e.g., from an emulsifier.
  • Aspects of the instant disclosure also relate to methods for using such cosmetic compositions.
  • a method for treating hair according to aspects of the disclosure typically includes:
  • the methods for treating and/or cleaning hair according to the disclosure may vary but typically include applying a cosmetic composition as disclosed herein, allowing the cosmetic composition to remain on the hair for a sufficient amount of time, and rinsing the cosmetic compositions from the hair.
  • the cosmetic composition may be a leave-in composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions may allowed to remain on the hair indefinitely, i.e. , the cosmetic composition is not removed or rinsed from the hair prior to styling the hair.
  • the cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair in a sequence with other compositions.
  • the cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair before shampooing the hair, after shampooing the hair, before conditioning the hair, and/or after conditioning the hair, etc.
  • the cosmetic compositions are not required to be used in a sequence.
  • the cosmetic compositions are useful for conditioning, managing the hair, improving durability, and/or improving the hair’s resistance to thermal degradation.
  • the cosmetic compositions can be applied to the wet or damp hair and may be massaged into the hair, for example, with the hands, and/or spread throughout the hair with a comb or brush. This results in a smoothing and softening of the hair, which reduces frizz, dryness, and unwanted volume.
  • the cosmetic composition and extraneous water may be combined, and optionally mixed, prior to application to the body.
  • the cosmetic composition may be combined in a container, bowl, packaging, bottle, etc., and subsequently applied to the body after formation of the opaque emulsion.
  • the cosmetic compositions are used in conjunction with additional hair-care compositions in a routine, for example, during an individual’s normal showering/bathing routine.
  • the cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair individually or may be combined with one or more additional compositions.
  • the cosmetic composition may be mixed with a shampoo (or conditioner) prior to application to the hair.
  • the mixture of the shampoo (or conditioner) and the cosmetic composition are simultaneously applied to the hair during the cleansing or conditioning process and simultaneously rinsed from the hair.
  • the cosmetic composition may be layered on top of (or lathered into) hair to which a shampoo (or conditioner) has already been applied or vice versa.
  • the cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair and without rinsing it from the hair, a shampoo (or conditioner) is then subsequently applied to the hair.
  • a shampoo or conditioner
  • the shampoo (or conditioner) may be first applied to the hair and without rinsing the shampoo (or conditioner) from the hair, the cosmetic composition is also applied to the hair.
  • the cosmetic composition When used in conjunction with a shampoo and/or a conditioner, the cosmetic composition may be mixed or used with the shampoo and/or conditioner in a ratio of about 1 : 10 to about 10:1 , about 1 :5 to about 5: 1 , about 1 :3 to about 3: 1 , about 1 :2 to about 2:1 , about 1 : 1 to about 4: 1 , about 1 : 1 to about 3:1 , or about 1 : 1 to about 2:1 (cosmetic composition of the instant disclosure : shampoo/conditioner, etc.).
  • the cosmetic composition When the cosmetic composition is not being mixed with another composition prior to application to the hair, the cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair immediately after or before the hair is treated with another composition (e.g., a shampoo and/or a conditioner).
  • another composition e.g., a shampoo and/or a conditioner
  • the cosmetic compositions may be applied to the hair within about a few seconds or 1 , 2, 5, 10, or 20 minutes before or after a shampoo and/or a conditioner is applied to the hair.
  • ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1-5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3- 5, 2-3, 2-4, 1-4, etc.
  • the hair cleansing compositions of the instant disclosure can be free or essentially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout the instant disclosure.
  • the hair cleansing compositions of the present disclosure may be substantially free of non-incidental amounts of the ingredient(s) or compound(s) described herein.
  • a non-incidental amount of an ingredient or compound is the amount of that ingredient or compound that is added into the hair cleansing composition by itself.
  • a hair cleansing composition may be substantially free of a non-incidental amount of an ingredient or compound, although such ingredient(s) or compound(s) may be present as part of a raw material that is included as a blend of two or more compounds.
  • an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component.
  • certain compounds may be characterized as both an emulsifier and a surfactant. If a particular hair composition includes both an emulsifier and a surfactant, the compounds that may be characterized as both an emulsifier and a surfactant will serve only as either the emulsifier or the surfactant — not both.
  • the terms “comprising,” “having,” and “including” are used in their open, non-limiting sense.
  • the terms “a,” “an,” and “the” are understood to encompass the plural as well as the singular.
  • the term “a mixture thereof” also relates to “mixtures thereof.”
  • the term “a mixture thereof” is used, following a list of elements as shown in the following example where letters A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.”
  • the term, “a mixture thereof” does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included).
  • treat refers to the application of the compositions of the present disclosure onto the surface of keratinous substrates such as hair on a user’s head and/or body.
  • compositions/method/kits may be free or essentially free of the component.
  • a particular composition may be free or essentially free of silicones.
  • the cosmetic compositions includes: about 0.1 to about 25 wt.%, preferably about 0.5 to about 20 wt.%, preferably about 1 to about 20 wt.%, of citric acid; about 0.2 to about 40 wt.%, preferably about 0.2 to about 35 wt.%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 30 wt.%, of one or more urea compound chosen from imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, m-dimethylaminophenyl urea, dimethyl urea, a hydroxyethyl urea, urea, urea derivatives, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, m-dimethylaminophenyl urea, dimethyl urea, a hydroxyethyl urea, N-(2- hydroxyethyl)urea;, N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea; N-
  • a molar ratio of the citric acid of (a) to the urea compound of (b) is 1 or less, preferably about 10:1 to about 0.5:10, more preferably about 1 :1 to about 1 :3; and about 20 wt.% or more, preferably about 20 to about 90 wt.%, more preferably about 50 to about 90 wt.%, of water, wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the cosmetic compositions includes: about 0.1 to about 25 wt.%, preferably about 0.5 to about 20 wt.%, preferably about 1 to about 20 wt.%, of citric acid; about 0.2 to about 40 wt.%, preferably about 0.2 to about 35 wt.%, more preferably about 0.5 to about 30 wt.%, of one or more urea compound chosen from dimethyl urea, a hydroxyl ethyl urea, or a combination thereof, wherein a molar ratio of the citric acid of (a) to the urea compound of (b) is 1 or less, preferably about 10:1 to about 0.5:10, more preferably about 1 :1 to about 1 :3; and about 20 wt.% or more, preferably about 20 to about 90 wt.%, more preferably about 50 to about 90 wt.%, of water; optionally, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably about 0.1 to about
  • the polyol is propylene glycol; optionally, about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, preferably about 0.1 to about 18 wt.%, more preferably about 0.1 to about 14 wt.% of a thickening agent, including, e.g., polyacrylate crosspolymers or crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, cationic acrylate copolymers, anionic acrylic or carboxylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides, gums, polyquaterniums, vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers/copolymers, C8-24 hydroxyl substituted aliphatic acid, C8-24 conjugated aliphatic acid, sugar fatty esters, polyglyceryl esters, or a mixture thereof; optionally, about 0.1 to about 35 wt.%, preferably about 1 to about 25 wt.%, more preferably about 1 to about 20 wt.%, of a water-soluble solvent, such as alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4
  • a preservative such as, e.g., sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, phenoxyethanol, salicylic acid, tocopherol, chlorphenesin, BHT, disodium EDTA, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, or a mixture thereof; optionally, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, preferably about 0.1 to about 9 wt.%, more preferably about 0.2 to about 8 wt.%, of a silicone, such as those chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodime)
  • a chelating agent 15 wt.%, more preferably about 0.1 to about 8 wt.%, of a chelating agent; optionally, about 0.01 to about 20 wt.% of a pH adjuster, preferably in an amount such that the pH of the composition is about 3 to about 7; and optionally, about 0.001 to about 10 wt.% of a fragrance, wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • a method for producing cosmetic compositions include:
  • Example Compositions A-C Three exemplary cosmetic compositions (Exemplary Compositions A-C) were prepared from deep eutectic solvent (“DES”) system.
  • the DES system was prepared by mixing citric acid and dimethyl urea to a temperature of about 80°C to about 85°C. The DES system was then solubilized in distilled water.
  • the formulation for Exemplary Compositions A-C are provided in Table 1 , below. Table 1
  • Exemplary Compositions B and D was applied to hair swatches and evaluated in comparison to the application of only a conventional sulfate-based shampoo (the control).
  • Exemplary Composition D had the same formulation as Exemplary Composition B, except that a DES system was not formed from the citric acid and dimethyl urea before preparing the cosmetic composition.
  • Natural brown wavy Caucasian hair swatches were washed with a conventional sulfate-based shampoo and rinsed before the application of Exemplary Compositions B and D.
  • An amount of 0.4 gram of each of Exemplary Compositions B and D per gram of hair swatch was massaged onto their respective hair swatches for 1 minute, left on the hair swatches for another minute, rinsed for 30 seconds, and then blow dried for 2 minutes.
  • These hair swatches were then evaluated to assess the effects of Exemplary Compositions B and D using a rinse-off procedure.
  • the control was prepared according to the above procedure, except that a cosmetic composition was not applied to the hair swatch after the conventional sulfate-based shampoo.
  • Additional hair swatches were prepared by applying Exemplary Compositions B and D to hair swatches, in an amount of 0.15 grams of composition per gram of respective hair swatches. Specifically, Exemplary Compositions B and D were massaged onto their respective hair swatches for one minute, left on the hair swatches for a minute, and then below dried for two minutes. These hair swatches were evaluated to assess the effects of Exemplary Compositions B and D using a leave-on procedure.
  • Anti-frizz properties or the degree of frizz on each of the hair swatches was evaluated using imaging analysis. Anti-frizz properties of the hair swatches were evaluated after the hair swatches were blow dried, and after 1 hour, after 2 hours, after 4 hours, after 8 hours, after 12 hours, and after 24 hours of the hair swatches residing in a humidity chamber at 80% relative humidity and room temperature.
  • FIG. 1 provides images of the hair swatches treated with Exemplary Compositions B and D and the control using the rinse out procedure.
  • FIG. 2 provides images of the hair swatches treated with Exemplary Compositions B and D and the control using the leave-on procedure.
  • Exemplary Compositions B and D provided significantly better anti-frizz properties to the control hair swatches.
  • Exemplary Compositions B and D provided better hair volume control.
  • Exemplary Composition B provides surprisingly better volume control than Exemplary Composition D and the control, as shown in Table 2.
  • Hair swatches treated with exemplary Compositions A and C were evaluated and compared to hair swatches treated only with a conventional sulfate-based shampoo (the Control). Hair swatches were washed with a conventional sulfate- based shampoo and rinsed before the application of Exemplary Compositions A and C in an amount of 0.15 grams of composition per gram of respective hair swatches. The compositions were massaged onto their respective hair swatches for one minute, left on the hair swatches for a minute, and then below dried for two minutes. The control was prepared according to the above procedure, except that a cosmetic composition was not applied to the hair swatch after the conventional sulfate-based shampoo.
  • hair swatches were evaluated to assess the effects of Exemplary Compositions A and C using a leave-on procedure.
  • the hair swatches underwent cyclic fatigue using a Cyclic Tester to determine the durability of the hair swatch.
  • the Cyclic Tester simulates every day hair grooming by subjecting a set number of fibers to repeated cyclic tensile deformations until failure.
  • the hair swatches were evaluated for the thermal denaturation temperature, which is associated with cross-link density of the amorphous matrix, using Differential Scanning Calorimetry. Differential scanning calorimetry measures the thermal stability of hair’s major morphological components.
  • the hair swatch treated with Exemplary Compositions C exhibited significantly better durability and denaturation temperature than the control hair swatch.
  • the hair swatch treated with Exemplary Compositions A also exhibited improved durability and denaturation temperature than the control hair swatch.
  • Exemplary Composition E had the same formulation as Exemplary Composition A, except that a DES system was not prepared from the citric acid and dimethyl urea before preparing the cosmetic composition.
  • the formulations for Comparative Compositions 1 and 2 are provided in Table 3.
  • Exemplary Composition A was massaged onto the respective hair swatch for one minute, left on the hair swatch for a minute, and then below dried for two minutes. The hair swatch was evaluated to assess the effects of Exemplary Composition A using a leave-on procedure.
  • the hair was then assessed to evaluate the effect of Exemplary Composition A and E on the thermal denaturation temperature (which corresponds to cross-link density), durability of the hair, the Young’s modulus, and the break extension as compared to the effects of Comparative Compositions 1 and 2 and the Control.
  • Thethermal denaturation temperature and durability of the hair was determined as discussed in Example 2.
  • FIGS. 5-8 are graphs of the break cycles, denaturation temperature, Young’s modulus, and break extension of the hair treated with Exemplary Composition A and E in comparison to Comparative Compositions 1 and 2 and the control.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne des compositions cosmétiques, des kits correspondants et des procédés de fabrication et d'utilisation de telles compositions cosmétiques. Les compositions cosmétiques comprennent environ 0,1 à environ 25 % en poids d'acide citrique, environ 0,2 à environ 40 % en poids d'un ou de plusieurs composé d'urée, et environ 20 % en poids ou plus d'eau, tous les pourcentages en poids étant basés sur le poids total de la composition cosmétique. De plus, les compositions cosmétiques sont typiquement formulées pour avoir un rapport molaire de l'acide citrique de (a) au composé d'urée de (b) inférieur ou égal à 1.
EP21763198.5A 2020-08-31 2021-08-23 Compositions cosmétiques, kits correspondants et leurs procédés de fabrication et d'utilisation Pending EP4203911A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US17/007,752 US20220062135A1 (en) 2020-08-31 2020-08-31 Cosmetic compositions, kits thereof, and methods for making and using the same
FR2010605A FR3115203B1 (fr) 2020-10-16 2020-10-16 COMPOSITIONS COSMETIQUES, LEURS NECESSAIRES, ET PROCEDES DE FABRICATION et D’UTILISATION DE CELLES-CI
PCT/US2021/047086 WO2022046602A1 (fr) 2020-08-31 2021-08-23 Compositions cosmétiques, kits correspondants et leurs procédés de fabrication et d'utilisation

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EP4203911A1 true EP4203911A1 (fr) 2023-07-05

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JP (1) JP2023539200A (fr)
KR (1) KR20230051299A (fr)
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WO (1) WO2022046602A1 (fr)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
NL93966C (fr) * 1955-04-29
US4185087A (en) 1977-12-28 1980-01-22 Union Carbide Corporation Hair conditioning compositions containing dialkylamino hydroxy organosilicon compounds and their derivatives
GB9116871D0 (en) 1991-08-05 1991-09-18 Unilever Plc Hair care composition
US5262603A (en) 1992-05-12 1993-11-16 Miller Edge, Inc. Sensing edge
EP1535607B1 (fr) * 2003-11-26 2013-07-17 Akzo Nobel N.V. Hydroxyalkylurée pour un effet hydradant amélioré
FR2883175B1 (fr) * 2005-03-17 2007-05-11 Oreal Composition cosmetique de nettoyage contenant un compose d'uree et un compose alkyl glycol carboxylate
WO2007054833A2 (fr) * 2005-11-14 2007-05-18 L'oréal Utilisation cosmetique d’une hydroxyalkyluree en tant qu’agent de traitement de conditions desquamantes du cuir chevelu ; compositions et processus de traitement cosmetique
KR101458382B1 (ko) * 2011-04-18 2014-11-06 한국콜마주식회사 피부염착방지용 신속염모제 조성물
CN106176454A (zh) * 2016-08-30 2016-12-07 无锡雷克雅未克科技有限公司 一种免冲洗沐浴及洗发露及其制备方法
AU2019316813A1 (en) * 2018-08-09 2021-02-04 Universidade Do Minho Hair treatment composition, methods and uses thereof

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JP2023539200A (ja) 2023-09-13
WO2022046602A1 (fr) 2022-03-03
CN116348084A (zh) 2023-06-27

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