WO2021217225A1 - Composition cosmétique de soin capillaire, procédé de traitement et/ou de mise en forme des cheveux, et processus de fabrication d'une composition cosmétique de soin capillaire - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique de soin capillaire, procédé de traitement et/ou de mise en forme des cheveux, et processus de fabrication d'une composition cosmétique de soin capillaire Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021217225A1
WO2021217225A1 PCT/BR2020/050148 BR2020050148W WO2021217225A1 WO 2021217225 A1 WO2021217225 A1 WO 2021217225A1 BR 2020050148 W BR2020050148 W BR 2020050148W WO 2021217225 A1 WO2021217225 A1 WO 2021217225A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
hair care
cosmetic composition
alcohol
care cosmetic
hair
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/BR2020/050148
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
João Paulo Duarte GUIMARAES
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to BR112022017270A priority Critical patent/BR112022017270A2/pt
Priority to PCT/BR2020/050148 priority patent/WO2021217225A1/fr
Priority to FR2007291A priority patent/FR3109727B1/fr
Publication of WO2021217225A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021217225A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26—Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/591—Mixtures of compounds not provided for by any of the codes A61K2800/592 - A61K2800/596
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/594—Mixtures of polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds

Definitions

  • HAIR CARE COSMETIC COMPOSITION METHOD FOR TREATING AND/OR SHAPING HAIR, AND PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A HAIR CARE
  • the present application relates to a hair care cosmetic composition
  • a hair care cosmetic composition comprising one or more alkoxy functional amino silicones, one or more polymers, a mixture of two or more solvents, wherein the first solvent contains a monoalcohol and the second solvent contains a polyol, two or more cationic surfactants, and one or more fatty alcohol or one or more fatty acid; wherein the composition is an anhydrous or substantially anhydrous (i.e., the amount of water can be about 10 wt.% or less), is liquid and transparent, until combined with external water, whereupon the composition forms an opaque or turbid emulsion instantaneously, the opaque or turbid emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the composition prior to combination with the external water.
  • the present application also relates to a method for treating hair, and a process for manufacturing the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, high melting point fatty compounds, low melting point oils, silicone compounds, and mixtures thereof. Most of these conditioning agents are known to provide various conditioning benefits.
  • the inventors of the present application developed a hair care cosmetic composition that meets the individual’s desires and overcome the challenges of the state of the art, wherein such composition is liquid and transparent, and forms an emulsion with increased viscosity when in contact with external water.
  • the amount of alcohol is reduced, the melting point of such composition is increased (that is, the solidification point is increased), which impacts the application of the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of alcohol is increased in the hair care cosmetic composition, in order to decrease its solidification point to make it remain liquid and transparent, there is a manufacturing difficulty residing in the amount of alcohol in the hair care cosmetic composition: the greater the amount of alcohol, the lower the viscosity of the emulsion which is formed after the mixture with external water.
  • a technical problem in manufacturing such a hair care cosmetic composition is increasing its amount of alcohol, in order to keep the composition liquid and transparent, without negatively affecting the viscosity of the emulsion formed when such composition is mixed with external water, preferably while maintaining a high viscosity in such emulsion.
  • the inventors of the present application were capable to overcome the above-mentioned difficulties by manufacturing a hair care cosmetic composition comprising the one or more alkoxy functional amino silicones and the one or more polymers, as described herein.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention can have a greater amount of alcohol, when compared to the state of the art, while maintaining the same aspect, before and after the mixtures with external water and demonstrates improved results when applied in a method for treating and/or shaping hair.
  • the present application relates to a hair care cosmetic composition
  • a hair care cosmetic composition comprising one or more alkoxy functional amino silicones, one or more polymers, a mixture of two or more solvents, wherein the first solvent contains a monoalcohol and the second solvent contains a polyol, two or more cationic surfactants, and one or more fatty alcohol or one or more fatty acid; wherein the composition is an anhydrous or substantially anhydrous, is liquid and transparent, until combined with external water, whereupon the composition forms an opaque or turbid emulsion instantaneously, the opaque or turbid emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the composition prior to combination with the external water.
  • the present application also relates to a method for treating hair, and a process for manufacturing the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • Fig. 1 demonstrates the comparative results of Example 5 in locks of human hair, wherein the compositions according to Examples 2 and 3 of the present invention and according to Example 1 of the state of the art were applied.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises: a) one or more alkoxy functional amino silicones; b) one or more polymers; c) a mixture of two or more solvents; d) two or more cationic surfactants; e) one or more fatty alcohol or one or more fatty acid; wherein the hair care cosmetic composition is an anhydrous or substantially anhydrous, is liquid and transparent, with a viscosity ranging from about 1 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s at 25 Q C, and a pH that ranges from about 1 to about 14, before combined with external water, and after the combination with the external water, the hair care cosmetic composition forms an opaque or turbid emulsion instantaneously, the opaque or turbid emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the composition prior to combination with the external water, preferably ranging from about 5 mPa.s to about 10,000 mPa.s.
  • the one or more alkoxy functional amino silicone of the present invention is selected from PEG-7 amodimethicone or Trideceth- 9 PG amodimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
  • the one or more alkoxy functional amino silicones is present in a range from about 0.1 % to about 10 %, preferably from about 1 % to about 5 %, from about 2 % to about 3.5 %, from about 2.5 % to about 3.5 %, from about 3 % to about 5 %, from about 3 % to about 8 %, based on the total weight of the composition based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the one or more polymers of the present invention are able to keep the embodiment transparent and fluid and at the same time able to enhance the viscosity of the final mixture with external water.
  • the polymers are nonionic and comprising preferably the isocyanate-functional polymers steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer, disteareth-100 ipdi, disteareth-75 ipdi, peg- 240/hdi copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether, and mixtures thereof.
  • the concentration of the polymers can range from about 0.1 % to about 10 %, preferably about 1 % to about 5 %, more preferably about 2 % to about 5 %, most preferably about 3 % to about 5 %, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the concentration of the polymers can range from about 1 .5 % to about 3.0 %, or from about 2.5 % to about 4.5 %, or from about 3.0 % to about 5.0 %, or from about 4.0 % to about 5.0 %, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition of the present application has a mixture of two or more solvents, wherein the first solvent contains a monoalcohol and the second solvent contains a polyol.
  • the first solvent containing a monoalcohol is selected from monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cycohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl-2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol), and a mixture thereof
  • the second solvent contains a polyol selected from polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms and two or more hydroxyl groups, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propanediol, 1 ,4- butanediol, 1 ,5-Pentane
  • the first solvent ranges from about 5 % to about 50 %, preferably from about 10 % to about 40 %, from about 15 % to 35 %, from about 25 % to 45 %, from about 35 % to about 45%, from about 40 % to 50 %, based on the total weight of the composition
  • the second solvent ranges from about 10 % to about 90 %, such as from about 5 % to about 10%, from about 10 % to about 15%, from about 10 % to about 25 %, from about 12 % to about 23 %, from about 20 % to about 25%, from about 30 % to about 40 %, from about 50 % to about 70 %, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the ratio of the first solvent to the second solvent ranges from about from about 0.5:1 to about 10:1 , including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, respectively, such as from about 0.75:1 to about 8:1 , about 1 :1 to about 7:1 , about 1 .2:1 to about 6:1 , about 1 .5:1 to about 5:1 , about 1 .5:1 to about 4.5:1 , about 1 .5:1 to about 4:1 , about 1 .7:1 to about 3.5:1 .
  • the ratio of the first solvent to the second solvent is at about 0.5:1 , about 0.75:1 , about 1 :1 . about 1 :2:1 , about 1 .3:1 , about 1 .4:1 , about 1 .5:1 , about 1 :6:1 , about 1 .7:1 , about 1 :8:1 , about 1 :9:1 , about 2:1 , about 2.2:1 , about 2:3:1 , about 2.4:1 , about 2.5:1 , about 2.6:1 , about 2.7:1 , about 2.8:1 , about 2.9:1 , about 3:1 , about 3.1 :1 , about 3.2:1 , about 3.3:1 , about 3.4:1 , about 3.5:1 , about 3.6:1 , about 3.7:1 , about 3.8:1 , about 3.9:1 , about 4:1 , about 4.1 :1 , about 4.2
  • the hair care cosmetic composition of the present application comprises at least two cationic surfactants that contain positively charged ammonium compounds or form positively charged ammonium compounds at pH lower than 7, preferably, cationic surfactants with quaternary ammonium compounds with different counter ions, such as chloride ion and sulfate ion.
  • the first cationic surfactant is C16-24 ammonium salts, preferably behentrimonium chloride and second one is a C14-18 ammonium salt, preferably cetrimonium chloride.
  • the concentration of the two or more cationic surfactants ranges from about 0.5 % to about 10 %, respectively, preferably from about 1 % to about 8 %, from about 2 % to about 6%, from about 3 % to about 6 %, from about 3,5 % to about 6 %, from about 3.5 % to about 5.5 %, from about 6 % to about 7 %, from about 8 % to about 9 %, from about 8.5 % to about 10 %, based on the total weight of the composition, to ensure performance and the transparency of the hair care cosmetic composition above 15 Q C.
  • the ratio of the first cationic surfactant to the second cationic surfactant ranges from about 1 :0.5 to about 1 :2, such as about 1 :0,5, about 1 :0.75, about 1 :1 , about 1 :1 .25, about 1 :1 .5, about 1 :1 .75, or about 1 :2 including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween.
  • fatty alcohol of the one or more fatty alcohol or one or more fatty acid is selected from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t- butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof, and the fatty acid of the one or more fatty alcohol or one or more fatty acid is selected from myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof.
  • the concentration of the one or more fatty alcohol or one or more fatty acid ranges from about 4 % to about 18%, preferably from about 4 % to about 18 %, from about 10 to about 14.5 %, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition of the present application may further comprise, optionally, at least an alkyl ester, preferably di-C-12-13 alkyl malate, ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.5 % to about 3 %, from about 0.5 to about 2 %, at least a polyalkoxylated polydimethysiloxane with viscosity ranging from about 5 to about 1 ,000,000 centistokes, preferably PEG-12 dimethicone with concentration ranging from about 0.5% to about 5%, at least a fatty compound, preferably glycerides, more preferably triglycerides with concentration, ranging from about 0.1% to about 15%, preferably from about 2.5 % to about 3.5 %, from about 5 to about 8 %, from about 9 % to about 10 %, pH adjuster, mainly organic acids or organic bases, and/or fragrance, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
  • alkyl ester preferably di-C-12-13 al
  • the hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention provides better frizz and volume control, and better smoothness in wet and dry hair. Also, the hair care cosmetic composition is transparent and fluid above about 5 S C, while maintaining the instantaneous transformation into a cream.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention may show higher viscosity in the presence of water, as demonstrated by the provided Examples.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention when applied to keratin fibers, specifically hair, shows improved discipline, alignment, frizz control and volume down when compared to the results of the state of the art hair care cosmetic compositions. Also, the use of the present hair care cosmetic composition shows enhanced smoothness and conditioning compared to prior art on dry state compared to the state of the art.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition according to the present invention provides an improved unique sensorial and individual experience by forming an emulsion with increased viscosity upon the addition (e.g., combination) of external water and, in particular, forming an emulsion with increased viscosity instantaneously on wet hand(s), wet hair, etc.
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions are typically translucent or transparent prior to combination with external water and are opaque or turbid, or substantially opaque or turbid, after combination with external water (they form an emulsion in contact with such external water).
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions of the present application may provide a unique sensorial experience by forming an emulsion with increased viscosity during use.
  • a user combines the hair care cosmetic composition with external water ⁇ e.g., water other than the water already included in the hair care cosmetic composition). This results in the formation of an emulsion may have an increased viscosity.
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions are typically solubilized and transparent (or translucent) prior to use when the hair care cosmetic composition is combined with external water. As the hair care cosmetic composition becomes mixed with external water, the viscosity of the composition may increase, an emulsion forms, and the composition becomes opaque or turbid.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition combines with the external water instantaneously and forms an opaque or turbid emulsion having a higher viscosity than the hair care cosmetic composition prior to combination with external water.
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions typically combine with external water to form an emulsion with increased viscosity.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may have a viscosity of about 1 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s at a temperature of 25°C using a Rheomat® viscosimeter (spindle #3) at 200 revolutions per minute (RPM), prior to combination with external water.
  • the viscosity may be, for example, about 1 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s at a temperature of 25°C using a Rheomat® viscosimeter (spindle #3) at 200 revolutions per minute (RPM).
  • the viscosity of the hair care cosmetic composition prior to combination with external water is preferably about 1 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s, about 1 mPa.s to about 30 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to about 40 mPa.s, or about 5 mPa.s to about 30 mPa.s.
  • the viscosity of the opaque or turbid emulsion that is formed may be, for example, about 1 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 10 mP.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 40 mP.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 50 mP.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 100 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 500 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 1 ,000 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 5,000 mPa.s to about 40,000 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to about 30,000 mPa.s, about 5 mPa.s to about 25,000 mPa.s, about 50 mPa.s to about 25,000 mPa.s, about 100 mPa.s
  • the hair care cosmetic composition become an opaque or turbid emulsion upon combination with external water, for example, from a user’s wet or damp hands, wet or damp hair, and/or from the faucet and the like.
  • the opaque or turbid emulsion may be formed by combining external water with the hair care cosmetic composition in an ratio (water : composition) ranging from about 0.1 :1 to about 3:1 , preferably about 0.5:1 or about 1 :1 or about 1.5:1 or about 2:1.
  • the emulsion may be formed by combining external water in an amount such that the total amount of water in the hair care cosmetic composition increases to more than 10 wt.% or, in some instances, to about 12 wt.% or more, about 15 wt.% or more, about 20 wt.% or more, about 25 wt.% or more, or about 30 wt.% or more, relative to the amount of water in the hair care cosmetic composition before combination with external water.
  • the emulsion formed from the combination of the hair care cosmetic composition and external water may occur without active mixing from a user or in conjunction with active mixing from the user.
  • the opaque or turbid emulsion is formed automatically without the need for mixing.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition becomes sufficiently combined with external water to form the opaque or turbid emulsion by simply coming into contact with external water.
  • a minimal amount of mixing may be needed, and may be encouraged, to more thoroughly form the opaque or turbid emulsion. This can easily be achieved during use of the hair care cosmetic composition, for example, by physically manipulating ( e.g ., mixing) the hair care cosmetic composition with external water using the body ⁇ e.g., with the hands).
  • the hair care cosmetic composition can occur, for example, when a consumer applies the hair care cosmetic composition to a wet or damp part of the body ⁇ e.g., hands, face, skin, hair, etc.).
  • the user may then physically manipulate the applied hair care cosmetic composition (for example, by rubbing the hands together or rubbing the composition against another part of the body such as the face, hair, etc. or using an applicator or device to mix or physically manipulate the hair care cosmetic composition with external water).
  • the combination of the hair care cosmetic composition with the external water instantaneously forms an emulsion having the same or higher viscosity than the hair care cosmetic composition prior to combination with external water.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition upon combination with external water, forms an emulsion having a lamellar phase, and may even form a multi-lamellar emulsion.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition upon combination with external water, forms an emulsion comprising emulsified droplets, micelles, etc.
  • a “lamellar phase” refers generally to packing of polar-headed long chain nonpolar-tail molecules in an environment of bulk polar liquid (i.e., water from the hair), as sheets of bilayers separated by bulk liquid.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition is formulated to form the opaque or turbid emulsion within 3 minutes of combination (with or without active mixing) with water, preferably in 2 minutes or less, preferably in 1 minute or less, preferably in 45 seconds or less, preferably in 30 seconds or less, preferably in 20 seconds or less, preferably in 10 seconds or, or preferably in 5 seconds or less.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention is used as a rinse-off conditioner or mask, so they should be applied on hair during the shower where it will become a viscous cream in contact with water providing conditioning, detangling and smoothness, for example.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention is used as a leave-on product.
  • compositions and methods of the present disclosure can comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.
  • the expression “at least one” is interchangeable with the expression “one or more” and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • any value or point described herein that falls within a range described herein can serve as a minimum or maximum value to derive a sub-range, etc.
  • all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • a range from 1 -5 includes specifically 1 , 2, 3, 4 and 5, as well as sub ranges such as 2-5, 3-5, 2-3, 2-4, 1 -4, etc.
  • the term "transparent” refers to a hair care cosmetic composition having a transmittance of at least 80% at a wavelength of 600 nm, for example measured using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer.
  • the compositions may have, e.g., a transmittance of at least 80%, at least 90%, or at least 95% at a wavelength of 600 nm, measured, e.g., using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer.
  • the term “transparent” can also mean that an article is visible to the human eye when looking through the har care cosmetic composition contained in a clear glass bottle.
  • the term “opaque” refers to a hair care cosmetic composition having a transmittance of below 80% at a wavelength of 600 nm, for example measured using a Lambda 40 UV-visible spectrometer.
  • polyol should be understood as meaning, within the meaning of the present disclosure, an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • extraneous water can also mean “extraneous water”.
  • compositions described throughout this disclosure may be a “leave- on” product.
  • a “leave-on” (also called leave-in) product refers to a hair treatment composition that is applied to hair and is not subjected to immediate rinsing and/or washing for at least 4 hours or for a period of time ranging from 4 hours up to 72 hours, from 4 hours up to 48 hours, or from 8 hours up to 36 hours, or from 8 hours up to 24 hours.
  • the product is applied to the hair and remains on the hair, as styled, i.e., it is not removed from the hair prior to shaping the hair.
  • the har care cosmetic composition can be anhydrous, that is, they do not contain water or are free of water (added water or part of a raw material), or it can be substantially anhydrous.
  • the phrase “substantially anhydrous” is interchangeable with the phrase “essentially free of water” or “substantially free of water.”
  • a substantially anhydrous composition may include up to 10 wt.% of water regardless of whether the water is added to the composition or part of a raw material.
  • the substantially anhydrous composition may include less than 9 wt.%, less than 8 wt.%, less than 7 wt.%, less than 6 wt.%, less than 5 wt.%, less than 4 wt.%, less than 3 wt.%, less than 2 wt.%, less than 1 wt.%, or less than 0.5 wt.% of water.
  • hair care is interchangeable with the term “hair treatment” for purposes of the instant disclosure.
  • an opaque or turbid composition is formed, and the obtained opaque or turbid emulsion can have a lamellar phase structure.
  • a “lamellar phase” refers generally to packing of polar headed long chain nonpolar-tail molecules in an environment of bulk polar liquid (i.e., water from the hair), as sheets of bilayers separated by bulk liquid.
  • a mixture thereof also relates to “mixtures thereof.”
  • A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.”
  • A-F represent the elements: “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture thereof.”
  • the term, “a mixture thereof” does not require that the mixture include all of A, B, C, D, E, and F (although all of A, B, C, D, E, and F may be included). Rather, it indicates that a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F can be included. In other words, it is equivalent to the phrase “one or more elements selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, and a mixture of any two or more of A, B, C, D, E, and F.”
  • “Substituted,” as used herein, means comprising at least one substituent.
  • substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulphonate groups, thiosulphate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups.
  • the substituent(s) may be further substituted.
  • a salt thereof also relates to “salts thereof.”
  • the disclosure refers to “an element selected from the group consisting of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt thereof, and a mixture thereof,” it indicates that that one or more of A, B, C, D, and F may be included, one or more of a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included, or a mixture of any two of A, B, C, D, E, F, a salt of A, a salt of B, a salt of C, a salt of D, a salt of E, and a salt of F may be included.
  • the salts referred to throughout the disclosure may include salts having a counter-ion such as an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, or ammonium counter-ion. This list of counter-ions, however, is non-limiting.
  • compositions of the instant disclosure can be free or essentially free of all components and elements positively recited throughout the instant disclosure.
  • the one or more alkoxy functional amino silicone of the present invention is selected from PEG-7 amodimethicone or Trideceth- 9 PG amodimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
  • the one or more alkoxy functional amino silicones is present in a range from about 0.1 % to about 10 %, preferably from about 1 % to about 5 %, from about 2 % to about 3.5 %, from about 2.5 % to about 3.5 %, from about 3 % to about 5 %, from about 3 % to about 8 %, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the one or more polymers of the present invention are able to keep the embodiment transparent and fluid and at the same time able to enhance the viscosity of the final mixture with external water.
  • the polymers are nonionic and comprising preferably the isocyanate-functional polymers steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer, disteareth-100 ipdi, disteareth-75 ipdi, peg-240/hdi copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether, and mixtures thereof.
  • the concentration of the polymers can range from about 0.1 % to about 10 %, preferably about 1 % to about 5 %, more preferably about 2 % to about 5 %, most preferably about 3 % to about 5 %, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the concentration of the polymers can range from about 1 .5 % to about 3.0 %, or from about 2.5 % to about 4.5 %, or from about 3.0 % to about 5.0 %, or from about 4.0 % to about 5.0 %, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises a mixture of two or more solvents, wherein the first solvent is a monoalcohol and the second solvent is a polyol.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may be formulated to have a ratio of the first solvent to the second solvent ranges from about 0.5:1 to about 10:1 , including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, respectively, such as from about 0.75:1 to about 8:1 , about 1 :1 to about 7:1 , about 1 .2:1 to about 6:1 , about 1 .5:1 to about 5:1 , about 1 .5:1 to about 4.5:1 , about 1 .5:1 to about 4:1 , about 1 .7:1 to about 3.5:1 .
  • the ratio of the first solvent to the second solvent is at about 0.5:1 , about 0.75:1 , about 1 :1 . about 1 :2:1 , about 1 .3:1 , about 1 .4:1 , about 1 .5:1 , about 1 :6:1 , about 1.7:1 , about 1 :8:1 , about 1 :9:1 , about 2:1 , about 2.2:1 , about 2:3:1 , about 2.4:1 , about 2.5:1 , about 2.6:1 , about 2.7:1 , about 2.8:1 , about 2.9:1 , about 3:1 , about 3.1 :1 , about 3.2:1 , about 3.3:1 , about 3.4:1 , about 3.5:1 , about 3.6:1 , about 3.7:1 , about 3.8:1 , about 3.9:1 , about 4:1 , about 4.1 :1 , about 4.2:1
  • the first solvent ranges from about 5 % to about 50 %, such as from about 10 % to about 40 %, from about 15 % to 35 %, from about 25 % to 45 %, from about 35 % to about 45%, from about 40 % to 50 %, based on the total weight of the composition
  • the second solvent ranges from about 10 % to about 90 %, such as from about 5 % to 10%, from about 10 % to about 15%, from about 10 % to about 25 %, from about 20 % to about 25%, from about 30 % to 40 %, from about 50 % to about 70 %, respectively, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the first solvent of the hair care cosmetic composition includes one or more monoalcohols, such as those having from 2 to 6 carbon atom.
  • the amount of monoalcohols present in the hair care cosmetic composition may range from about 5 to about 50 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may have monoalcohol(s) in an amount of about 5 to about 50 wt.%, about 5 to about 45 wt.%, about 5 to about 40 wt.%, about 5 to about 35 wt.%, about 5 to about 30 wt.%, about 5 to about 25 wt.%; about 10 to about 50 wt.%, about 10 to about 45 wt.%, about 10 to about 40 wt.%, about 10 to about 35 wt.%, about 10 to about 30 wt.%, about 10 to about 25 wt.%; about 15 to about 50 wt.%, about 15 to about 45 wt.%, about 15 to about 40 wt.%, about 15 to about 35 wt.%, about 15 to about 30 wt.%, or about 15 to about 25 wt.% including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • the one or more monoalcohols of the hair care cosmetic composition may be chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, hexanol, isopropyl alcohol, cycohexanol, isobutyl alcohol, 2-methyl-2-butanol (2-methylbutan-2-ol), and a mixture thereof.
  • the one or more monoalcohol(s) includes or consists of ethanol.
  • the second solvent of the hair care cosmetic composition includes one or more polyols, which may be glycols or compounds with numerous hydroxyl groups.
  • the one or more polyols is/are selected from the group consisting of C2-C32 polyols.
  • the one or more polyols may be liquid at ambient temperature (25°C).
  • the one or more polyols may have from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or from 3 to 12 carbon atoms.
  • the polyols may be chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1 ,3 propanediol, glycerin, diglycerin, and a mixture thereof.
  • Suitable components may be included or excluded from the formulations for the hair care cosmetic compositions depending on the specific combination of other components, the form of the hair care cosmetic compositions, and/or the use of the formulation (e.g., a lotion, gel, cream, spray, etc.).
  • Polyols that may be included in the hair care cosmetic composition include ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin, diethylene glycol, and dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol is propylene glycol.
  • the polyol is one or both of propylene glycol and butylene glycol.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition comprises at least propylene glycol, and optionally one or more polyols other than propylene glycol.
  • Non-limiting examples of polyols that may, optionally, be included in the cosmetic include and/or may be chosen from alkanediols such as glycerin, 1 ,2,6- hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2- butene-1 ,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1 ,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1 ,2- hexanediol, 1 ,2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1 ,2-pentanediol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether
  • the one or more polyols may, optionally, be glycols or glycol ethers such as, e.g., monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, e.g., monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, e.g., monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
  • glycols or glycol ethers such as, e.g., monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, e.g., monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, e
  • the one or more polyols may include or are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, and a mixture thereof.
  • the polyol of the second solvent is preferably selected from having 3 to 6 carbon atoms and two or more hydroxyl groups, such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 1 ,5-Pentanediol, Hexane-1 ,6-diol, and glycerin, and a mixture thereof.
  • hydroxyl groups such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propanediol, 1 ,4-butanediol, 1 ,5-Pentanediol, Hexane-1 ,6-diol, and glycerin, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of polyol(s) present in the hair care cosmetic composition typically ranges from about 10 to about 90 wt.%.
  • the amount of polyol(s) in the hair care cosmetic composition may be about 20 to about 88 wt.%, about 20 to about 85 wt.%, about 20 to about 80 wt.%, about 20 to about 75 wt.%, about 20 to about 70 wt.%, about 20 to about 65 wt.%, about 20 to about 60 wt.%, about 20 to about 55 wt.%, about 20 to about 50 wt.%, about 20 to about 45 wt.%, about 20 to about 40 wt.%, about 20 to about 35 wt.%, about 20 to about 30 wt.%; about 10 to about 25 wt.%, about 12 to about 23 wt.%, about 25 to about 88 wt.%, about 25 to about 85 wt.%, about 25 to about 80 wt.%, about 25 to about
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions may optionally include at least one organic solvent (non-silicone solvents) other than the monoalcohols and polyols of the present disclosure.
  • Non-limiting examples of organic solvents include glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
  • glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol
  • propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition of the present application comprises at least two cationic surfactants that contain positively charged ammonium compounds or form positively charged ammonium compounds at pH lower than 7, preferably, cationic surfactants with quaternary ammonium compounds with different counter ions, such as chloride ion and sulfate ion.
  • the first cationic surfactant is C16-24 ammonium salts, preferably behentrimonium chloride and second one is a Cu-ie ammonium salt, preferably cetrimonium chloride.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may be formulated such that the two or more cationic surfactants are associated with the same or different balancing anionic ions.
  • at least one of the two or more cationic surfactants may have a chloride ion and/or at least one of the two or more cationic surfactants may have a sulfate ion.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may be formulated such that at least two of the two or more cationic surfactants have a chloride ion, or one of the at least two or more cationic surfactants has a chloride ion and one of the at least two or more cationic surfactants has a sulfate ion.
  • the two or more cationic surfactants comprise cetrimonium chloride and one or both of behentrimonium methosulfate and behentrimonium chloride. In at least one instance, the two or more cationic surfactants comprise behentrimonium chloride and one or both of behentrimonium methosulfate and cetrimonium chloride.
  • the cationic surfactants include or are chosen from cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidtrimonium
  • cationic surfactants include behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride(Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethylchloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, diethanolammonium POE (10) oletyl ether phosphate, diethanolammonium POE (3)oleyl ether phosphate, tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammoniumbentonite, stea
  • the cationic surfactant(s) may also be chosen from optionally polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. In some cases it is useful to use salts such as chloride salts of the quaternary ammonium compounds.
  • the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon- based chain.
  • quaternary ammonium salts which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those corresponding to the following general formula: in which the groups Rs to R11, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Rs to R11 denoting a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C2-C30 alkenyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (C12- C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups;
  • X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates.
  • quaternary ammonium salts having a structure in accordance with the above general formula (III)
  • those that are preferred are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or, on the other hand, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts.
  • tetraalkylammonium salts for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salt
  • the cationic surfactants may be cationic polymers such as polyquaternium.
  • the cationic surfactants may be polyquaternium polymers selected polyquaternium-1 , polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11 , polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21 , polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium-24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41 , polyquaternium
  • Examples of quaternary ammonium salt of imidazoline include those having a structure according to the general formula provided below: in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkyl or alkenyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Ri4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Ri2 and R13 preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, Ri4 preferably denotes a methyl group, and R15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • Ri4 preferably denotes a methyl group
  • R15 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • REWOQUAT W 75 Such a product is sold, for example, under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • Examples of quaternary diammonium or triammonium salt which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those having a structure in accordance with the following general formula: in which R16 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms; R-iz is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a)N-(CH2)3, Ri6a, Ri7a, Risa, Rie, R19, R2o and R21, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulfates.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Qu
  • cationic/cationizable surfactants which may be incorporated in certain instances, include those having a structure in accordance with the general formula provided below:
  • R4-A-R5 — B wherein R4 is a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 8 to 24 C atoms, R5 is a straight or branched alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, A is selected from: and B is selected from: wherein R6 and Rz are the same or different and are H or an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms,
  • Re and R9 are the same or different, an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms and di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms, Rio is an alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms, hydroxyl alkyl chain with 1 to 4 C atoms or di hydroxyl alkyl chain with 2 to 4 C atoms.
  • R4 is saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain with 10 to 24C atoms, more preferably 12 to 22 C atoms and Rs is straight or branched alkyl group with 1 to 4 C atoms, and A, B, R6 to Rio are same as above.
  • Non-limiting suitable examples are stearyloxypropyl amine, palmityloxypropyl amine, stearyloxypropyldimethyl amine, stearyloxypropyldiethyl amine, stearyloxyethylyldimethyl amine, stearyloxyethyl amine, myristyloxypropyl amine, myristyloxypropyldimethyl amine, palmitamidopropyl amine, palmitamidopropyl methylamine, palmitamidopropyl diethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dibutylamine, palmitamidopropyl buylamine, palmitamidopropyl dipropylamine, palmitamidopropyl propylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl hydroxyethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dihydroxypropylamine, palmitamidoprop
  • Cationizable surfactants may be chosen from fatty alkylamines, preferably, fatty dialkylamines.
  • Non-limiting examples include dimethyl lauramine, dimethyl behenamine, dimethyl cocamine, dimethyl myristamine, dimethyl palmitamine, dimethyl stearamine, dimethyl tallowamine, dimethyl soyamine, and mixtures thereof.
  • Fatty dialkylamines include fatty amidoamine compounds, their salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples include oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamido- propyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidiethylamine, arachidamidoethyidimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl and palmitamid
  • Non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids may be used to “neutralize” the fatty dialkylamines.
  • the one or more non-polymeric, mono-, di-, and/or tri-carboxylic acids include at least one dicarboxylic acid.
  • Non limiting examples include lactic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, malic acid, glutaric acid, citraconic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, tartaric acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,6-naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, benzoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • lactic acid or tartaric acid or mixtures thereof are useful, especially in combination with fatty dimethylamines such as, for example, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.
  • Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants include those chosen from cetrimonium chloride, steartrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethyl-amine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachid
  • At least one of the two or more cationic surfactants has a chloride ion and/or at least one of the two or more cationic surfactants has a sulfate ion. Additionally or alternatively, in some instances, at least two of the two or more cationic surfactants have a chloride ion, or one of the at least two or more cationic surfactants has a chloride ion and one of the at least two or more cationic surfactants has a sulfate ion.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition includes two or more cationic surfactant(s) typically in an amount ranging from about 0.5 % to about 10 %, based on the total weight of the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of cationic surfactants present in the hair care cosmetic composition may range from about 1 % to about 8 %, from about 2 % to about 6%, about 2 % to about 10 %, about 2 % to about 9 %, about 2 % to about 8 %, about 2 % to about 7 %, about 2 % to about 6 %, about 2 % to about 5 %; about 2.5 % to about 5 %, about 2.5 % to about 4.5 %, about 2.5 % to about 4.4 %, or about 2.5 % to about 4.2 %, from about 3 % to about 6 %, from about 3,5 % to about 6 %, from about 3.5 % to about 5.5 %, from about 6 % to about 7 %, from about 8 % to about 9 %, from about
  • the concentration of the two or more cationic surfactants ranges from 0.5 % to 10 %, respectively, to ensure performance and the transparency of the hair care cosmetic composition above 15 Q C.
  • the ratio of the first cationic surfactant to the second cationic surfactant ranges from 1 :0.5 to 1 :2.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition includes one or more fatty alcohols or one or more fatty acids, or a mixture thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols, fatty acids, or mixture thereof may include fatty alcohols chosen from decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
  • the one or more fatty compounds chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, or a mixture thereof may include one or more fatty acids chosen from myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols may be liquid at 25°C, 1 atm, or may even be solid. They may even be glycerolated and/or oxyalkylenated, and may include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. They may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty alcohols may be chosen from those having from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and from about 14 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated.
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cholesterol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols are those selected from the group consisting of myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and a mixture thereof.
  • the saturated liquid fatty alcohols may be branched. They can optionally comprise, in their structure, at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring, but are preferably acyclic.
  • Non-limiting examples of liquid saturated fatty alcohols include octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and 2-hexyldecanol.
  • the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols may include in their structure at least one double or triple bond and, in some instances, one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them and they can be conjugated or non-conjugated. These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They can optionally include in their structure at least one aromatic or non aromatic ring but they are preferably acyclic. Among liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol can be cited.
  • Non-limiting examples of solid fatty alcohols include linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture, cetylstearyl alcohol.
  • Non-limiting examples of high melting point fatty compounds include fatty alcohols such as, for example, myristyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 38°C), cetyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 56°C.), stearyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 58-59°C), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 71 °C), and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohols such as, for example, myristyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 38°C), cetyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 56°C.), stearyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 58-59°C), behenyl alcohol (having a melting point of about 71 °C), and mixtures thereof.
  • These compounds are known to have the above melting points. However, they often have lower melting points when supplied, since such supplied products are often mixtures of fatty alcohols having alkyl chain length distribution in which the main alkyl chain is cet
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis4-t-butylcyclohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arichidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid, and a mixture thereof.
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions include an amount of fatty alcohol(s), fatty acid(s), or mixture(s) thereof typically in the range of about 4 % to about 18 %, based on the total weight of the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of fatty alcohol(s), fatty acid(s), or mixture(s) present in the hair care cosmetic composition may range from about 4 % to about 18 %, about 4 % to about 17 %, about 5 % to about 18 %, about 5 % to about 17 %; about 6 % to about 18 %, or about 6 %to about 17 %, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention may further comprise any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient, which may be chosen especially from such as perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments and mixtures thereof.
  • any usual cosmetically acceptable ingredient which may be chosen especially from such as perfume/fragrance, preserving agents, solvents, actives, surfactants, fatty compounds, vitamins, fillers, silicones, polymers, pigments and mixtures thereof.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition of the present invention further comprises at least an alky ester, preferably di-C-12-13 alkyl malate, ranging from 0.5% to 5%, preferably from about 0.5 % to about 3 %, from about 0.5 to about 2 %, at least a polyalkoxylated polydimethysiloxane with viscosity ranging from about 5 to about 1 ,000,000 centistokes, preferably PEG-12 dimethicone with concentration ranging from 0.5% to 5%, at least a fatty compound, preferably glycerides, more preferably triglycerides with concentration, ranging from 0.1% to 10%, pH adjuster, mainly organic acids or organic bases, and/or fragrance.
  • Other suitable cosmetic ingredients may also be included.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition includes one or more silicones other than the alkoxy functional amino silicones of the present invention.
  • silicones include polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • the one or more silicones may be or include one or more dimethicone copolyols.
  • the copolyols may be chosen from Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG- 7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG- 12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions may include fatty compounds other than fatty alcohol(s), fatty acid(s), or mixtures thereof, such as, e.g., those described above.
  • the amount of fatty compounds other than fatty alcohol(s), fatty acid(s), or mixtures thereof present in the hair care cosmetic composition may range from, e.g., about 1 to about 40 wt.%, about 1 to about 35 wt.%, about 1 to about 30 wt.%, about 1 to about 25 wt.%, about 1 to about 20 wt.%, about 1 to about 15 wt.%, about 1 to about 10 wt.%, about 1 to about 5 wt.%; about 2 to about 40 wt.%, about 2 to about 35 wt.%, about 2 to about 30 wt.%, about 2 to about 25 wt.%, about 2 to about 20 wt.%, about 2 to about 15 wt.%, about 2 to about 10 wt.%, or about 2
  • a “fatty compound” is generally an organic compound that is not soluble in water at normal temperature (25°C.) and at atmospheric pressure (750 mmFIg) (solubility below 10%). In some instances, the solubility in water may be below 5%, below 1%, or below 0.1%). Moreover, fatty compounds are generally soluble in one or more organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, for example organic solvents such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds other than fatty alcohol(s) and/or fatty acid(s) include oils, mineral oil, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives (such as polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids or propylene glycol esters of fatty acids or butylene glycol esters of fatty acids or esters of neopentyl glycol and fatty acids or polyglycerol/glycerol esters of fatty acids or glycol diesters or diesters of ethylene glycol and fatty acids or esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, esters of short chain alcohols and fatty acids), esters of fatty alcohols, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, and a mixture thereof.
  • oils mineral oil, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives (such as polyethylene glycol esters of fatty acids or propylene glycol esters of fatty acids or butylene glycol esters of fatty acids or esters of neopentyl glycol
  • the at least one fatty compound includes one or more esters of fatty acids, and/or esters of fatty alcohols (for example, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate, myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate, and stearyl stearate (a mixture of which is referred to as “cetyl esters”)).
  • the fatty compounds may be liquid or solid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25°C Conduct 1 atm).
  • the one or more fatty compounds may be one or more high melting point fatty compounds.
  • a high melting point fatty compound is a fatty compound having a melting point of greater than 25°C. Even higher melting point fatty compounds may also be used, for example, fatty compounds having a melting point of 30 °C or higher, 40°C or higher, 45°C or higher, 50°C or higher.
  • Non-limiting examples of the high melting point compounds are found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifteenth Edition, 2014, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.
  • Additional and/or alternative fatty alcohol derivatives include alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, esters of fatty alcohols and a mixture thereof.
  • fatty alcohol derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth-1 through ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the steareth series of compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, wherein the numeric designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth 1 through ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.
  • Non-limiting examples of hydrocarbons include linear or branched, optionally cyclic C6-C16 alkanes; hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane.
  • the linear or branched hydrocarbons may be composed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms of mineral, plant, animal or synthetic origin with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene, and squalane.
  • Non-limiting examples of liquid fatty esters include esters from a C6-C32 fatty acid and/or a C6-C32 fatty alcohol, and are liquid at 25°C., 1 atm. These esters may be liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C25 aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 10. In some cases, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention result is branched.
  • ethyl palmitate isopropyl palmitate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • Cetyl Esters is a mixture of the following esters of saturated fatty acids and fatty alcohols: cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate, myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate, and stearyl stearate.
  • Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.
  • Non-limiting liquid fatty esters that may be mentioned include, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, coconut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter oil.
  • sunflower oil sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, coconut oil, camellina oil,
  • the solid fatty acid esters and/or fatty acid esters that may be mentioned include solid esters obtained from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C25 fatty alcohols.
  • these esters mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.
  • the liquid fatty ethers may be chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether.
  • the non-liquid fatty ethers may also be chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
  • Non-limiting examples of waxes include carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by Bertin (France), or animal waxes such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), and ceramides.
  • Non-limiting examples of ceramides include N-linoleyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleyldihydrosphingosine, N- palmityldihydrosphingosine, N-stearyldihydrosphingosine or N- behenyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • the fatty acid derivatives may include, but are not limited to, ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethyleneglycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propyleneglycol monostearate, propyleneglycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate
  • the one or more ester oils may be or include one or more monoester oils, one or more diester oils, one or more triester oils, or a combination thereof. In some instances, the one or more esters oils include one or more monoester oils, one or more diester oils, or a combination thereof. In some instances, the one or more ester oils include one or more diesters. For purposes of the present application triglycerides are not considered ester oils.
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions include ester oils typically in an amount from about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%.
  • the amount of ester oil(s) present in the hair care cosmetic composition may range from about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%; about 1 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 to about 4 wt.%; about 1 .5 to about 5 wt.%, or about 1.5 to about 4 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • Non-limiting examples of the one or more diester oils include those chosen from diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dioctanoate, dibutyl sebacate, di- C-12-13 alkyl malate, dicetearyl dimer dilinoleate, dicetyl adipate, diisocetyl adipate, diisononyl adipate, diisostearyl dimer dilinoleate, diisostearyl fumarate, and mixtures thereof.
  • ester oils include, for example, as monoesters, isononanoates such as isononyl isononanoate and isotridecyl isononanoate, etc., 2-ethylhexanoate such as cetyl ethylhexanoate and hexyldecyl ethylhexanoate, etc., myristates such as isopropyl myristate, isocetyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, etc., isostearates such as ethyl isostearate, isopyropyl isostearate, hexyldecyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, cholesteryl isostearate, phytosteryl isostearate, etc., lactates such as isostearyl lactate, octyldodecyl lactate, etc.,
  • Non-limiting examples of diester oils include diisobutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate, neopentyl glycol diisononanoate, neopentyl glycol diethyl hexanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisostearyl malate, diisopropyl dilinoleate, ethylene glycol dioctanoate, octyldodecyl stearoyloxystearate, diisopropyl sebacate, di(cholesteryl/octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate, di(phytosteryl/octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate, etc.
  • the one or more ester oils may be or include one or more triester oils.
  • triester oils that may, optionally be used, include triethyl hexanoin, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, triisostearin, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, etc.
  • Tetraester oils include pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, etc.
  • the one or more ester oils may be or include one or more polyester oils.
  • polyester oils include polyglycerin fatty acid esters such as polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate, etc.
  • ester oils may also be high-viscosity ester oils such as those chosen from dipentaerythrityl hexa(hydroxystearate/stearate/rosinate), hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, (polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimer dilinoleate) copolymer, (phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl) dimer dilinoleate, bis(phytosteryl/behenyl/isostearyl) dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, di(isostearyl/phytosteryl) dimer dilinoleate, dimer dilinoleyl hydrogenated rosin condensation product, dimer dilinoleyl diisostearate, dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, di(cholesteryl/beheny
  • the hair care cosmetic composition includes one or more silicone(s) typically in an amount ranging from about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of silicone(s) present in the hair care cosmetic composition may range from about 0.5 to about 5 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 4 wt.%; about 1 to about 5 wt.%, about 1 to about 4 wt.%; about 1 .5 to about 5 wt.%, or about 1.5 to about 4 wt.%, including all ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • Non-limiting examples of silicones include amine-functionalized silicones (e.g ., amodimethicone), dimethicone, bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethyl silylamodimethicone, dimethicone copolyols, etc.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may include, in some instances, one or more silicones chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconols), polymethylphenylsiloxanes, phenylmethylsiloxanes, amino functional polydimethylsiloxane (amodimethicone), bis-aminopropyl dimethicone, trimethylsilylamodimethicone, dimethicone copolyols, dimethicone copolyol esters, dimethicone copolyol quaternium nitrogen containing compounds, dimethicone copolyol phosphate esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicones chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (dimethicones), polydiethylsiloxanes, polydimethyl siloxanes having terminal hydroxyl groups (dimethiconol
  • the one or more silicones may be or include one or more dimethicone copolyols.
  • the copolyols may be chosen from Dimethicone PEG-8 Adipate, Dimethicone PEG-8 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-20/23 Benzoate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate, Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate, PEG-3 Dimethicone, PEG-7 Dimethicone, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-9 Dimethicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG-14 Dimethicone, PEG-17 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicon
  • the silicone(s) may, optionally, include or be chosen from a siloxane with a methacrylic group on one of its molecular ends, polydimethylsiloxane containing a styryl group on one of its molecular ends, or a similar silicone compound containing unsaturated groups; butadiene; vinyl chloride; vinylidene chloride; methacrylonitrile; dibutyl fumarate; anhydrous maleic acid; anhydrous succinic acid; methacryl glycidyl ether; an organic salt of an amine, an ammonium salt, and an alkali metal salt of methacrylic acid, of itaconic acid, of crotonic acid, of maleic acid or of fumaric acid; a radical-polymerizable unsaturated monomer containing a sulfonic acid group such as a styrenesulfonic acid group; a quaternary ammonium salt derived from methacrylic acid, such as 2-hydroxy
  • the silicones optionally, include or are chosen from siloxanes having an organo functional group, such as polyalkylsiloxanes, where at least one alkyl radical is different than methyl, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Stearyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone or C26-28 Alkyl Dimethicone, or, for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone or Dimethylphenyl Dimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having an organofunctional radical such as an aminopropyl, aminopropyl-aminoethyl, aminopropyl-aminoisobutyl radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Amodimethicone,
  • the compositions are free or essentially free of silicones.
  • the compositions include less than about 3 wt.%, 2 wt.%, 1 wt.%, 0.5 wt.%, 0.4 wt.% 0.3 wt.% 0.2 wt.%, or 0.1 wt.% of silicones (e.g., no silicones).
  • the hair care cosmetic composition is anhydrous or substantially anhydrous.
  • the phrase “substantially anhydrous” is interchangeable with the phrase “essentially free of water” or “substantially free of water.”
  • a substantially anhydrous composition may typically include 10 wt.% or less of water.
  • the amount of water present in the hair care cosmetic composition prior to combination with external water is typically 10 wt.%, 10 wt.% or less, 9 wt.% or less, 8 wt.% or less, 7 wt.% or less, 6 wt.% or less, 5 wt.% or less, 4 wt.% or less, 3 wt.% or less, 2 wt.% or less, 1 wt.% or less, or 0.5 wt.% or less, based on the total was of the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • the water present in the hair care cosmetic composition prior to combination with external water is added to the composition (“added water”).
  • the water present in the hair care cosmetic composition prior to combination with external water is not “added water,” i.e. , it is present in the hair care cosmetic composition as part of a raw material that is included in the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may optionally include triglycerides in an amount typically ranging from about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • the amount of triglycerides present in the hair care cosmetic composition may range from, e.g., about 0.1 to about 40 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 35 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 30 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 25 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 20 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 15 wt.%; about 0.5 to about 40 wt.%, about 0.5 to about 35 wt.%, about 0.
  • the triglycerides may be chosen from natural triglycerides (e.g., having a plant origin) or synthetic triglycerides.
  • the triglycerides may have 6 to 30 carbon atoms — such as, for instance, heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, coconut oil, camellina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, and shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • the triglycerides may be chosen from caprylic/capric/isostearic/adipictriglycerides, caprylic/capric/linoleictriglycerides, caprylic/caprictriglycerides, caprylic/capric/stearictriglycerides, glyceryltrilaurate/stearate, glyceryldi/tripalmitostearate, glyceryldi/tritristearate, caprylictriglyceride, caprylic/capric/laurictriglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may include one or more pH adjusters to increase or decrease the overall pH of the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • one or more acids may be included to decrease the pH of the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • suitable acids for decreasing the pH of the hair care cosmetic composition include, but are not limited to, citric acid, acetic acid, and the like.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may include one or more bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the like, to increase the pH of the hair care cosmetic composition. Additional or alternative acids and bases that are suitable for adjusting the pH of the hair care cosmetic composition are readily known to one of ordinary skill in the art.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may, desirably, have a pH of less than 7.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may have a pH of about 2 to less than 7, preferably about 2.5 to about 6 or about 3 to about 5.
  • the amount of the pH adjuster in the hair care cosmetic composition may be based on the desired pH of the final hair care cosmetic composition and/or product.
  • the total amount of the pH adjuster may range from about 0.05 to about 20 wt.%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of pH adjuster is from about 0.05 to about 15 wt.%, about 0.1 to about 10 wt.%, or about 0.12 to about 5 wt.%, including ranges and sub-ranges therebetween, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the present application also relates to methods for treating and/or shaping the hair and body with the hair care cosmetic composition discussed herein.
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions are useful in method for conditioning the hair, for providing frizz control to the hair, for improving ease of combability and detangling of the hair, for protecting the hair from damage, for increasing the appearance of hair volume, etc.
  • the compositions can be applied immediately after shampooing the hair, for example, in place of a conditioner.
  • the compositions can also be applied on hair immediately after shampooing and conditioning the hair, for example, as a mask rinse-off or leave-in treatment.
  • the compositions can also be applied before shampooing the hair as pre-treatment compositions.
  • the compositions are applied to wet or damp hair and massaged into the hair to ensure uniform coverage.
  • compositions After application to the hair, the hair may be rinsed with water, dried, and styled as desired. Another unique aspect of the compositions is that they may be used as a leave-on product.
  • the compositions can be applied to wet or damp hair and allowed to remain on the hair indefinitely, i.e., the hair composition is not removed or rinsed from the hair prior to shaping the hair.
  • a method for treating hair by applying a hair care cosmetic composition discussed herein to wet or damp hair and forming an emulsion instantaneously; and optionally rinsing the emulsion from the hair.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may be mixed with shampoo prior to application to the hair; or layered onto the hair with a shampoo; or applied to hair after a shampoo has been rinsed from the hair; or layered onto the hair with a conditioner; or mixed with a conditioner prior to application to the hair; or applied to hair after a conditioner has been rinsed from the hair; or mixed with a leave-in hair treatment prior to application to hair; or mixed with a mask composition prior to application to hair; or applied to hair after a mask composition has been applied to and optionally, rinsed from the hair.
  • Methods of treating hair according to the disclosure may vary but typically include applying a hair care cosmetic composition as disclosed herein, allowing the hair care cosmetic composition to remain on the hair for a sufficient amount of time, and rinsing the hair care cosmetic compositions from the hair.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair in a sequence with other compositions.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair before shampooing the hair, after shampooing the hair, before conditioning the hair, and/or after conditioning the hair, etc.
  • the compositions are not required to be used in a sequence.
  • the methods may include applying an amount of the hair care cosmetic composition onto the body, for example, onto one or both hands, onto the hair, onto the face, etc..
  • the body may already be wet or damp with external water or external water can be included after the hair care cosmetic composition has already been applied to the body.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition and the external water may optionally be mixed together on the body to facilitate formation of an opaque or turbid emulsion having an increased viscosity.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition and external water may be combined, and optionally mixed, prior to application to the body.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may be combined in a container, bowl, packaging, bottle, etc., and subsequently applied to the body after formation of the opaque or turbid emulsion.
  • the methods include forming the opaque or turbid emulsion on the hands and subsequently applying the opaque or turbid emulsion to the hair. In other instances, the methods include forming an opaque or turbid emulsion directly on the hair. In yet other instance, the methods include forming an opaque or turbid emulsion other the face, or other parts of the body.
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions and the emulsions formed by combination with water are useful for conditioning and/or managing the hair.
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions and the emulsions formed by combination of water can be applied to the wet or damp hair and may be massaged into the hair, for example, with the hands, and/or spread throughout the hair with a comb or brush. This results in a smoothing and softening of the hair, which reduces frizz, dryness, and unwanted volume.
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions may be used as a leave-on product.
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions can be applied to wet or damp hair and allowed to remain on the hair indefinitely, i.e., the hair care cosmetic composition is not removed or rinsed from the hair prior to shaping the hair.
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions are used in conjunction with additional hair-treatment compositions in a routine, for example, during an individual’s normal showering/bathing routine.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair individually or may be combined with one or more additional compositions.
  • Combining the compositions with one or more additional compositions e.g ., a shampoo, a conditioner, a rinse, etc.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may be mixed with a shampoo (or conditioner) prior to application to the hair.
  • the mixture of the shampoo (or conditioner) and the hair care cosmetic composition are simultaneously applied to the hair during the cleansing or conditioning process and simultaneously rinsed from the hair.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may be layered on top of (or lathered into) hair to which a shampoo (or conditioner) has already been applied or vice versa.
  • the composition may be applied to the hair and without rinsing it from the hair, a shampoo (or conditioner) is then subsequently applied to the hair.
  • the shampoo (or conditioner) may be first applied to the hair and without rinsing the shampoo (or conditioner) from the hair, the hair care cosmetic composition is also applied to the hair.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition When used in conjunction with a shampoo and/or a conditioner, the hair care cosmetic composition may be mixed or used with the shampoo and/or conditioner in a ratio of about 1 :10 to about 10:1 , about 1 :5 to about 5:1 , about 1 :3 to about 3:1 , about 1 :2 to about 2:1 , about 1 :1 to about 4:1 , about 1 :1 to about 3:1 , or about 1 :1 to about 2:1 (hair care cosmetic composition of the present inventio shampoo/conditioner, etc.).
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions of the present invention may be allowed to remain on the hair for a minimum amount of time before being rinsed from the hair, but it is not necessary to allow the hair care cosmetic composition to remain on the hair for an extended period of time.
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions can be applied and allowed to remain on the hair for a period of time that is typical for regular shampooing and/or conditioning.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition (whether combined with another hair-treatment composition such as a shampoo or conditioner) may be applied to the hair and allowed to remain on the hair for a few seconds (1 , 2, 3, or 5 seconds) up to about 1 , about 2, about 5, about 10, about 15, about 20, about 25, or about 30 minutes.
  • the hair care cosmetic composition may be applied to the hair immediately after or before the hair is treated with another composition (e.g., a shampoo and/or a conditioner).
  • another composition e.g., a shampoo and/or a conditioner
  • the hair-treatment compositions may be applied to the hair within about a few seconds or 1 , 2, 5, 10, or 20 minutes before or after a shampoo and/or a conditioner is applied to the hair.
  • the hair care cosmetic compositions of the present invention are unique in their ability to provide hair with improved manageability, shape/style, long-lasting style and frizz control, curl definition, curl retention, and smoothness. Accordingly, the present invention relates to methods for treating hair, for example, for improving the manageability of hair, for imparting lasting style and frizz control, and for imparting smoothness. More specifically, the hair care cosmetic compositions may be used in methods for conditioning the hair, providing curl definition to the hair, providing frizz control to the hair, improving ease of combability and detangling, and providing smoothness.
  • An example of a suitable hair care cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • fatty alcohols selected from myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and a fatty acid selected from myristic acid;
  • additional ingredients such as suitable pH adjuster, water (ranging from 5.0 % to 20 %), and/or fragrance.
  • Suitable hair care cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • fatty alcohols selected from myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and a fatty acid selected from myristic acid;
  • additional ingredients such as suitable pH adjuster, water (ranging from 5.0 to 20 %), and/or fragrance.
  • a further example of a suitable hair care cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises:
  • fatty alcohols selected from myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and a fatty acid selected from myristic acid;
  • alkoxy functional amino silicones selected from PEG- 7 amodimethicone, trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicone, and a mixture thereof;
  • isocyanate-functional polymers selected from steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI copolymer, disteareth-100 ipdi, peg-240/hdi copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether and mixtures thereof;
  • polyol selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;
  • fatty alcohols selected from myristyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, and a fatty acid selected from myristic acid;
  • compositions are anhydrous or substantially anhydrous, liquid and transparent, with a viscosity ranging from 1 mPa.s to 40 mPa.s at 25 Q C, and a pH that ranges from 3 to 5, until combined with external water, whereupon the composition forms an opaque or turbid emulsion instantaneously, the opaque or turbid emulsion having a viscosity that is the same or greater than that of the composition prior to combination with the external water, wherein all percentages are based on the total weight of the hair care cosmetic composition.
  • the process of manufacturing the hair care cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises the following steps:
  • Example 1 A suitable composition according to the state of the art is as Example 1 and a suitable composition according to the present invention is as Examples 2 to 4, as follows:
  • a hair care cosmetic composition of the state of the art according to Example 1 and according to the inventive Examples 2 and 3 were applied to locks of human hair. According to the protocol, the locks of human hair were left naturally at ambient conditions for 12h. After such period, the hair locks were combed twice before smoothness evaluation.
  • composition D hair care cosmetic composition of the state of the art
  • compositions E and F two hair care cosmetic compositions within the scope of the present invention
  • compositions E and F had higher viscosities.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique de soin capillaire comprenant une ou plusieurs silicones aminées à fonction alcoxy, un ou plusieurs polymères, un mélange d'au moins deux solvants, le premier solvant contenant un monoalcool et le deuxième solvant contenant un polyol, au moins deux tensioactifs cationiques, et un ou plusieurs alcools gras ou un ou plusieurs acides gras. La composition est un liquide anhydre ou sensiblement anhydre et transparente, jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit combinée à de l'eau externe, après quoi la composition forme instantanément une émulsion opaque ou trouble, l'émulsion opaque ou trouble ayant une viscosité qui est égale ou supérieure à celle de la composition avant la combinaison avec l'eau externe. L'invention concerne également un procédé de traitement des cheveux et un processus de fabrication de la composition cosmétique de soin capillaire.
PCT/BR2020/050148 2020-04-30 2020-04-30 Composition cosmétique de soin capillaire, procédé de traitement et/ou de mise en forme des cheveux, et processus de fabrication d'une composition cosmétique de soin capillaire WO2021217225A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

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BR112022017270A BR112022017270A2 (pt) 2020-04-30 2020-04-30 Composições cosméticas para cuidados dos cabelos, método para tratar e/ou modelar os cabelos e processo para fabricar uma composição cosmética para cuidados dos cabelos
PCT/BR2020/050148 WO2021217225A1 (fr) 2020-04-30 2020-04-30 Composition cosmétique de soin capillaire, procédé de traitement et/ou de mise en forme des cheveux, et processus de fabrication d'une composition cosmétique de soin capillaire
FR2007291A FR3109727B1 (fr) 2020-04-30 2020-07-09 Composition cosmetique de soin des cheveux, procede de traitement et/ou de mise en forme des cheveux, et processus de fabrication d’une composition cosmetique de soin des cheveux

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PCT/BR2020/050148 WO2021217225A1 (fr) 2020-04-30 2020-04-30 Composition cosmétique de soin capillaire, procédé de traitement et/ou de mise en forme des cheveux, et processus de fabrication d'une composition cosmétique de soin capillaire

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FR3130158A1 (fr) * 2021-12-14 2023-06-16 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant une silicone bis-aminée, un tensioactif cationique, un alcool gras et un alcane gras, procédé de traitement cosmétique et utilisation
WO2023179924A1 (fr) * 2022-03-23 2023-09-28 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Conditionneur capillaire pour lisser les cheveux

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WO2015024078A1 (fr) * 2013-08-20 2015-02-26 L'oreal Procédé de traitement cosmétique, trousse et composition
US20190201315A1 (en) * 2018-01-02 2019-07-04 L'oreal Reverse wash conditioning composition and methods of use

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JP4657354B2 (ja) * 2009-05-28 2011-03-23 株式会社資生堂 毛髪化粧料
BR112017000937B1 (pt) * 2014-07-31 2022-01-25 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Composição antiaderente e lenço

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WO2015024079A1 (fr) * 2013-08-20 2015-02-26 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant des silicones aminés, des tensioactifs cationiques et des esters spécifiques et méthode de traitement cosmétique
WO2015024078A1 (fr) * 2013-08-20 2015-02-26 L'oreal Procédé de traitement cosmétique, trousse et composition
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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3130158A1 (fr) * 2021-12-14 2023-06-16 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant une silicone bis-aminée, un tensioactif cationique, un alcool gras et un alcane gras, procédé de traitement cosmétique et utilisation
WO2023179924A1 (fr) * 2022-03-23 2023-09-28 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Conditionneur capillaire pour lisser les cheveux

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BR112022017270A2 (pt) 2022-11-29
FR3109727A1 (fr) 2021-11-05

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