EP4167950A1 - Composition cosmétique pour améliorer l'aspect de la peau - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour améliorer l'aspect de la peau

Info

Publication number
EP4167950A1
EP4167950A1 EP21732020.9A EP21732020A EP4167950A1 EP 4167950 A1 EP4167950 A1 EP 4167950A1 EP 21732020 A EP21732020 A EP 21732020A EP 4167950 A1 EP4167950 A1 EP 4167950A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
skin
composition
cosmetic composition
oil
aluminum starch
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21732020.9A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Aditi Jayavant KULKARNI
Ankita Rutu PAWAR
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Unilever Global IP Ltd
Unilever IP Holdings BV
Original Assignee
Unilever Global IP Ltd
Unilever IP Holdings BV
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unilever Global IP Ltd, Unilever IP Holdings BV filed Critical Unilever Global IP Ltd
Publication of EP4167950A1 publication Critical patent/EP4167950A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008—Preparations for oily skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for improving appearance of skin.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for an improvement in appearance of the skin that is noticeable, preferably instantly. Further, such improvement is preferably long lasting. Alternatively, such an improvement may be easily perceived by the eyes but a machine may be used for this purpose.
  • Wrinkles and fine lines are perceptible primarily as dark, non-reflective areas because of the way light falls and remains there. In contrast if light is reflected and diffused, the wrinkles are less visible. Methods have been developed to throw light into the wrinkles and immediately eliminate the dark areas. Materials are used that generate an optical blurring. This is called the ' soft focus effect ' which was described by Dr. Emmert in "Quantification of the Soft-Focus Effect", Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 111, 57-61 (1996). Soft focus or blurring is a technique which can be used to hide or conceal superficial or surface imperfections of the skin. Incoming light is distorted by scattering (lensing).
  • Ageing leads to changes to the appearance of skin. Of concern to some individuals, is the appearance of wrinkles, age spots or general unevenness of skin tone.
  • BR102017025745 A2 (UNIV SAO PAULO, 2017) discloses a cosmetic base that presents a pleasant sensory with a dry touch that avoids an oily residue.
  • the composition comprises 3 to 10% tapioca starch, 3 to 10% corn starch. It is disclosed that the two starches act synergistically.
  • US2020000721A discloses aqueous compositions comprising a rheology modifier comprising a water-swelling polymer and a co-emulsifier that are suitable for preparing cream formulations containing an oil.
  • the composition comprises PPG-3 benzyl ether ethylhexanoate, glycerin and a rheology modifier comprising sodium polyacrylate, ethylhexyl cocoate, PPG- 3 benzyl ether myristate, a co-emulsifier such as polysorbate 20, and an antimicrobial agent.
  • a cosmetic composition comprising: i) Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; and, ii) an ingredient having I NCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate; wherein weight ratio of said ingredient having I NCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate composition to said Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate in said composition is from 1:0.5 to 1:5.
  • a cosmetic composition of the first aspect to improve at least one property of skin.
  • the least one property is oil- control, moisturization, brightness of skin or pore-blurring of skin.
  • a method of improving at least one property of skin comprising treating skin with a cosmetic of the first aspect.
  • the least one property is oil-control, moisturization, brightness of skin or pore-blurring of skin.
  • Skin as used herein, is meant to include skin on the face, neck, scalp, underarms, chest, back, arms, hands, legs, scalp, feet, buttocks and abdomen, preferably the hands, neck, face, and underarms.
  • Age spots means any hyperpigmentation (e.g. including solar lentigo), spots and/or freckles.
  • treating or treatment includes within its scope reducing, delaying and/or preventing the abovementioned skin conditions and generally enhancing the quality of skin and improving its appearance and texture.
  • a cosmetic composition as used herein, is meant to include a composition for topical application to the skin of mammals, especially human beings. Such a composition may be generally classified as leave-on or rinse off but is preferably leave- on.
  • the composition could be in the form of a liquid, lotion, cream, foam, scrub, gel, or toner, or applied with an implement or via a face mask or a pad.
  • Non-limiting examples include leave-on skin lotions, creams, foundations, sunless tanners and sunscreen lotions.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising: i) Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; and, ii) an ingredient having I NCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate; wherein weight ratio of said ingredient having I NCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate composition to said Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate in said composition is from 1:0.5 to 1:5. INCI standards for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients.
  • the INCI system was established in the early 1970’s by the Personal Care Products Council (former CTFA, Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association) and the list is maintained by the Personal Care Products Council.
  • INCI names are used in the United States, the European Union, China, Japan, and many other countries, for listing ingredients on cosmetic product labels. With few exceptions, the INCI labeling names in all countries are the same.
  • the composition comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% of said ingredient having INCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate.
  • the composition comprises 0.5 to 15 wt% of said Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate.
  • the weight ratio of the ingredient having INCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate composition to said Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate in said composition is from 1:0.5 to 1:5.
  • Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate is a chemically modified starch, in particular starches that have undergone esterification. Such aluminum starch Octenylsuccinate is commercially available from suppliers like Akzo Nobel or Nouryon under the names Dry Flo® Pure and Dry Flo® PC. A variety of other suppliers sell it under their own brand name. In cosmetics and personal care products, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate is used in the formulation of lotions, powders, makeup and underarm deodorants. It is used as a thickener and binder, anticaking agent and oil absorbent.
  • the ingredient having INCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate is available, for example, from Nouryon as NATRASORB® HFB.
  • the natural content is 81% and the suggested applications include moisture resistant products, oil control products, anhydrous products, antiperspirant sticks, sunscreen and dry shampoo for a variety of benefits including oil-absorption, mitigation of syneresis and fragrance-retention.
  • the literature of the ingredient from Nouryon discloses that it is crosslinked aluminium starch octenyl succinate surface treated with acrylates copolymer and magnesium carbonate. It has been determined that the cosmetic composition of the invention improves at least one property of skin.
  • the at least one property is preferably oil-control, moisturization, brightness of skin or pore-blurring of skin.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a polyacrylate emulsifier or an emulsifier which comprises polyacrylates.
  • Emulsions are systems composed of two or more immiscible materials, in which one material (the discontinuous or internal phase) is suspended or dispersed throughout another material (the continuous or external phase) in separate droplets.
  • the immiscible phases can be water, oil or silicone.
  • emulsifiers When emulsions are made surfactants called emulsifiers are used to slow the process of separation of the immiscible phases. Proper use of emulsifier creates homogenous mixtures, dispersions or emulsions of e.g., oily or waxy substances with water.
  • the emulsifier is shear thinning and non-thixotropic.
  • the formulation when the formulation is put under high shear stress it can cause a rapid drop in viscosity. The effect is known as shear thinning.
  • Thixotropic liquids show a time dependent rebuild of viscosity after shear force is applied. Once the shearing force is stopped the viscosity recovers with time.
  • the emulsifier is self-emulsifiable and comprises an inverting surfactant
  • the shear thinning, non-thixotropic, self-emulsifiable rheology modifier is a polyacrylate polymer dispersed in a carrier oil containing an inverting surfactant.
  • the emulsifier is a material having I NCI name Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Ethylhexyl Cocoate (and) PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate (and) Polysorbate 20.
  • Such an emulsifier is commercially available as ViscOptimaTM SE.
  • ViscOptimaTM SE is a polyacrylate polymer dispersed in a carrier oil containing an inverting surfactant. Upon addition to water, ViscOptima SE inverts to form an oil-in-water emulsion allowing the polyacrylate molecules to swell by osmosis and consequently thicken the water phase.
  • ViscOptima SE has shear thinning rheology and is non- thixotropic. This results in a reduction in viscosity when force is applied to the formulation, such as during pumping or spraying, and immediate recovery of the viscosity when the force is no longer applied.
  • the emulsifier is one or more of Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Isotridecyl Isononanoate (and) Trideceth-6 (available as ViscOptimaTM LV), Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Paraffinum Liquidum (and) Trideceth-6 (available as ViscOptimaTM
  • compositions of the present invention also comprise a cosmetically acceptable carrier.
  • the carrier is an emulsion, preferably a water-in-oil emulsion.
  • emulsions are also called invert emulsions.
  • the composition comprises a carrier which is an oil-kin-water emulsion.
  • the oil phase of such emulsions comprises an emollient, preferably fats, oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, soaps, silicone oils, synthetic esters and/or hydrocarbons.
  • emollient preferably fats, oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, soaps, silicone oils, synthetic esters and/or hydrocarbons.
  • Many organic sunscreens are also hydrophobic materials and may be used alone or in combination with one or more of the foregoing emollients. Silicones may be divided into the volatile and nonvolatile variety.
  • Volatile silicone oils are preferably chosen from cyclic (cyclomethicone) or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. It is preferred that nonvolatile silicone is polyalkyl siloxane, polyalkylaryl siloxane or polyether siloxane copolymer.
  • the essentially nonvolatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes.
  • compositions of the invention comprise an arganopolysiloxane crosspolymer
  • the polymer preferably is dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer or dimethicone crosspolymer available from a variety of suppliers including Dow Corning (9040, 9041, 9045, 9506 and 9509), General Electric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu (KSG-15,
  • the emollient preferably is stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, mink oil, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate, stearic acid, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecan-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, eicosanyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, di-n-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, polyethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, lanolin, cocoa butter, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rape seed oil, safflower seed oil, evening primrose oil,
  • ester emollients are alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • examples thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanoate, cetyl ricinoleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate; ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols; polyhydric alcohol esters, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol mono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate,
  • pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane and neopentyl glycol esters of C1 to 30 alcohols are particularly useful.
  • pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate is particularly useful.
  • wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti wax and tribehenin wax
  • sterols esters of which cholesterol fatty acid esters are examples thereof
  • sugar ester of fatty acids such as sucrose polybehenate and sucrose polycottonseedate; or mixtures of two or more of the foregoing (a) to (f).
  • Hydrocarbons which are suitable emollients include petrolatum, mineral oil, C11-C13 isoparaffins, polyalphaolefins, isohexadecane or a mixture thereof.
  • the hydrophobic material comprises 1 to 25% fatty acid or 0.1 to 80% soap by weight of the composition.
  • Mixtures of fatty acid and soap are also suitable e.g. vanishing cream base which gives a highly appreciated matty feel to the skin.
  • C12 to C20 fatty acids are especially preferred for the present invention, more preferred being C14 to C18 fatty acids.
  • the most preferred fatty acid is stearic acid, palmitic acid or a mixture thereof.
  • the fatty acid in the composition is more preferably present in an amount in the range of 5 to 20% by weight of the composition.
  • Soaps can include alkali metal salt of fatty acids, like sodium or potassium salts, most preferred being potassium stearate.
  • the soap is preferably present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 10%, more preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight of the composition.
  • a vanishing cream base in skin care compositions is prepared by taking a desired amount of total fatty matter and mixing with potassium hydroxide in desired amounts.
  • the soap is usually formed in-situ during the mixing.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprise 20 to 80 wt% water, more preferably 40 and 75% water. This water forms part of the carrier.
  • cosmetic compositions of the invention comprises 0.001 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.05 to 4 wt% of a skin lightening agent.
  • a skin lightening agent is a vitamin B3 compound or its derivative e.g. niacin, nicotinic acid or niacinamide. More preferred skin lightening agent is niacinamide.
  • the skin lightening agent is at least one of aloe extract, ammonium lactate, anethole derivatives, apple extract, arbutin, azelaic acid, kojic acid, bamboo extract, bearberry extract, bletilla tuber, bupleurum falcatum extract, burnet extract, butyl hydroxy anisole, butyl hydroxy toluene, citrate esters, Chuanxiong, Dang-Gui, deoxyarbutin, 1,3-diphenyl propane derivatives, 2,5- dihydroxybenzoic acid and its derivatives, 2-(4-acetoxyphenyl)-1,3-dithane, 2-(4- hydroxyphenyl)-1,3-dithane, ellagic acid, escinol, estragole derivatives, Fadeout (Pentapharm), Fangfeng, fennel extract, ganoderma extract, gaoben, Gatuline Whitening (Gattlefosse), genistic acid and its
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprises one or more organic sunscreens.
  • organic sunscreen agents are suitable for use in combination with the essential ingredients of this invention.
  • Suitable UV-A/UV-B sunscreen agents include, 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid, digalloyltrioleate, 2,2- dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4-(bis(hydroxypropyl)) aminobenzoate, 2- ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexylsalicylate, glyceryl p- aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, methylanthranilate, p-dimethyl- aminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethyl-amino-benzoate, 2- phenylbenzimi
  • a safe and effective amount of organic sunscreen may be used in the compositions useful in the subject invention.
  • the composition preferably comprises from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 5%, of organic sunscreen agent.
  • compositions which can be included in the cosmetically acceptable carrier include solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders. Examples of each of these types of material, which can be used singly or as mixtures, are as follows:
  • Solvents include ethyl alcohol, isopropanol, acetone, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and mixtures thereof.
  • Humectants include those of the polyhydric alcohol-type.
  • Typical polyhydric alcohols include polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycerol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of humectant may range, for example, anywhere from 0.5 to 50%, more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight of the composition. Most preferred is glycerol (also known as glycerin). Amounts of glycerin may range, for example, from 0.5% to 50%, more preferably from 1 to 35%, optimally from 2 to 15% by weight of the composition.
  • thickening agents may be included in the compositions. Illustrative but not limiting are stearic acid, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (Aristoflex AVC), Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltau rate Copolymer, Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate, Polyacrylates (such as Carbomers including Carbopol® 980, Carbopol® 1342, Pemulen® TR-2 and the Ultrez® thickeners, Polysaccharides (including xanthan gum, guar gum, pectin, carageenan and sclerotium gums), celluloses (including carboxymethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxymethyl cellulose), minerals (including talc, silica, alumina, mica and clays, the latter being represented by bentonites, hectorites and attapulgites), magnesium aluminum silicate and
  • Powders include chalk, talc, Fullers earth, kaolin, starch, gums, colloidal silica sodium polyacrylate, tetraalkyl and/or trialkyl aryl ammonium smectites, chemically modified magnesium aluminium silicate, organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminium silicate, fumed silica, carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose and ethylene glycol monostearate.
  • Cosmetic compositions of the invention preferably comprise a non-silica hydrophilic inorganic thickener which swells by intercalating a polar liquid.
  • the compositions comprise 0.5 to 10 wt% of said hydrophilic inorganic thickener. This amount would depend on several other factors such as the wt% of the microspheres and the nature of the cosmetic composition, i.e. , a cream or a lotion or a gel.
  • non-silica means that the inorganic thickener is not a thickening silica or any other silica-based thickener.
  • compositions of this invention comprise 0.5 to 5 wt%, most preferably 0.5 to 3 wt% of the non-silica hydrophilic inorganic.
  • the inorganic thickener is at least one of magnesium-aluminium silicate, a layered silicate, smectite, hectorite, bentonite, montmorillonite or phyllosilicate. More preferably the inorganic thickener is smectite or magnesium-aluminium silicate.
  • VEEGUM® range of thickeners such as Normal Fast Ultra, VEEGUM® K, VEEGUM® HV, VEEGUM® PURE, VEEGUM® CH, VEEGUM® HS, VEEGUM® D, VEEGUM® Ultra and the VANATURAL range of thickeners such as VANATURAL® MC.
  • the VANATURAL® range is of the bentonite clay type.
  • the magnesium-aluminium silicate or smectite may be used in the form of combination or blend of the thickener with a natural organic gum or natural organic thickener.
  • An example thereof is VANATURAL® XGB (Bentonite and Xanthan Gum).
  • Other examples include VAN GEL SX (smectite clay and xanthan gum) and VEEGUM CER (smectite clay and cellulose gum).
  • blends could include polyacrylates, carbomers, cellulose, sodium, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylcellulose, xanthan gum, sodium carrageenan, sodium alginate, hydroxypropyl guar, gum arabic (acacia) or gum tragacanth.
  • smectite examples include sodium magnesium silicates, organically modified smectites including tetra alkyl and/or trialkyl ammonium smectites (organically modified montmorillonite clays) such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, stearalkonium bentonite and stearalkonium hectorite; and mixtures thereof.
  • organically modified smectites including tetra alkyl and/or trialkyl ammonium smectites (organically modified montmorillonite clays) such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, stearalkonium bentonite and stearalkonium hectorite; and mixtures thereof.
  • “Silicone elastomer” as used herein refers to deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises a silicone elastomer.
  • the silicone elastomer is cross-linked.
  • the silicone elastomer can be obtained from curable organo-polysiloxanes. Examples in this respect are: addition reaction-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure under platinum metal catalysis by the addition reaction between SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane and organopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded vinyl groups; condensation-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure in the presence of an organotin compound by a dehydrogenation reaction between hydroxyl terminated diorganopolysiloxane and SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane; condensation-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure in the presence of an organotin compound or a titanate ester, by a condensation reaction between a hydroxyl terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organosilane (this condensation reaction is exemplified by de
  • the silicone elastomer is preferably obtained by addition reaction-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure under platinum metal catalysis by the addition reaction between SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane and organopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded vinyl groups
  • the silicone elastomer may either be an emulsifying or non-emulsifying cross-linked silicone elastomer or a combination thereof but preferably the silicone elastomer is non-emulsifying.
  • non-emulsifying defines cross-linked silicone elastomer from which poly-oxyalkylene units are absent.
  • emulsifying means cross-linked organo-polysiloxane elastomer having at least one poly-oxyalkylene (e.g., poly-oxyethylene or poly-oxypropylene) unit.
  • Preferred silicone elastomers are organo-polysiloxanes available under the I NCI names of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer and Polysilicone-11. More preferably the silicone elastomer is dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
  • the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprise 0.1 to 10 wt% of the silicone elastomer, more preferably 0.5 to 8 wt%, even more preferably 1 to 5 wt%.
  • compositions of the invention may comprise 1 to 25 wt% fatty acid or 0.1 to 80 wt% soap by weight of the composition.
  • Mixtures of fatty acid and soap are also suitable e.g., forming a vanishing cream base which lends a matte feel to the skin.
  • C12- 20 fatty acids are especially preferred, more preferred being C14-18 fatty acids.
  • the most preferred fatty acid is stearic acid, myristic acid or a mixture thereof.
  • the composition comprises 5 to 20 wt% of the fatty acids or soap.
  • Soaps in the hydrophobic material can include alkali metal salt of fatty acids, like sodium or potassium salts, most preferred being potassium stearate.
  • a vanishing cream base in cosmetic compositions is prepared by taking a desired amount of total fatty matter and mixing with potassium hydroxide in desired amounts. The soap is usually formed in-situ during the mixing.
  • the composition comprises a whitening pigment.
  • the whitening pigment are typically particles of high refractive index materials.
  • the whitening pigment may have a refractive index of greater than 1 .3, more preferably greater than 1 .8 and most preferably from 2.0 to 2.7.
  • Examples of such whitening pigment are those comprising bismuth oxy-chloride barium sulfate, mica, silica, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, aluminum oxide, zinc oxide or combinations thereof.
  • More preferred whitening pigment are particles comprising titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, mica, iron oxide or a combination thereof.
  • Even more preferred whitening pigment are particles comprising zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, titanium dioxide or a combination thereof as these materials have especially high refractive index.
  • the whitening pigment is selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or a mixture thereof and most preferred whitening pigment is titanium dioxide.
  • the average diameter of whitening pigment is typical from 15 nm to 2 pm, more preferably from 35 nm to 800 nm, even more preferably from 50 nm to 500 nm and still even more preferably from 100 to 300 nm.
  • Diameter of whitening pigment refers to the diameter of particles in an un-aggregated state. In the event a well-defined sphere is not generated, diameter means the largest measurable distance on a particle The average diameter may be measured for example by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) or transmission electron microscopy (TEM) by averaging the value of at least one hundred particles.
  • the composition comprises 0.001 to 10 wt% whitening pigment, more preferably 0.01 to 6 wt%, more preferably still 0.1 to 3 wt% and most preferably 0.2 to 2 wt% whitening pigment.
  • compositions of the invention may further comprise other ingredients which are common in the art to enhance physical properties and performances.
  • Suitable ingredients include but are not limited to binders, colorants and pigments, pH adjusting agents, preservatives, optics, perfumes, viscosity modifiers, biological additives, buffering agents, conditioners, natural extracts, essential oils and skin benefit agents including anti-inflammatory agents, cooling agents, antiperspirant agents, anti- aging agents, anti-acne agents, anti-microbial agents and antioxidants.
  • the composition can be formulated in any known format.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention can be a leave-on or a wash-off composition, more preferably the cosmetic composition of the invention is a leave-on cosmetic.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is a cream, gel-creme or lotion.
  • the skin care composition of this invention is a composition suitable for topical application to human skin, including leave-on and wash-off products.
  • leave-on as used with reference to compositions herein means a composition that is applied to or rubbed on the skin and left thereon.
  • wash-off as used with reference to compositions herein means a skin cleanser that is applied to or rubbed on the skin and rinsed off substantially immediately subsequent to application.
  • Packaging for the composition of this invention can be a jar or tube as well as any other format typically seen for cosmetic, cream, washing and lotion type products.
  • the compositions may be applied topically and preferably 1 to 4 milligrams of composition is applied per square centimeter of skin.
  • a cosmetic composition of the first aspect to improve at least one property of skin.
  • the at least one property is oil- control, moisturization, brightness of skin or pore-blurring of skin.
  • at least two of the aforesaid properties are improved. More preferably three of the aforesaid properties are improved. Further preferably all four properties are improved.
  • the composition provides facial oil-control for at least 12 hours after single application.
  • Sebum is skin oil which is produced by sebocytes (cells of the sebaceous glands in the skin) and is then secreted to the skin surface.
  • a frequent and undesirable skin condition is “oily skin,” the condition which results from the excessive amount of sebum on the skin. Oily skin is associated with a shiny, undesirable appearance and a disagreeable tactile sensation and affects various age groups. Usually the extent of oil-control is measured by a tool called Sebumeter and generally on the forehead of the person. Moisturisation
  • a Corneometer is used for this analysis.
  • the Corneometer CM820PC (Courage & Khazaha, Kohl, Germany) is a device widely used in the cosmetic industry. It allows high frequency, alternating voltage electrical measurements of skin capacitance to be safely made via an electrode applied to the skin surface. The parameters measured have been found to vary with skin hydration. However, they may also vary with many other factors such as skin temperature, sweat gland activity, and the composition of any applied product.
  • the Corneometer can only give directional changes in the water content of the upper stratum corneum under favourable circumstances but even here the quantitative interpretations may prove misleading.
  • Skin brightening In a further aspect is disclosed the use of a composition of the first aspect for providing facial skin brightening for at least 4 hours and upto 12 hours after single application. Preferably the extent of brightening is measured using a Spectrophotometer and expressed using the L* value. Further preferably on the forehead of a subject. Pore reduction
  • a composition of the first aspect for reducing visible pores on facial skin of the pores for at least 4 hours and upto 12 hours after single application.
  • the pore reduction is measured as pore blurring on front, left and right side of face of a subject.
  • the light settings preferably are CP, PP, S1 and S2 lighting modes., using Visia® analysis.
  • a method of improving at least one property of skin comprising treating skin with a cosmetic composition of the first aspect.
  • the at least one property is oil-control, moisturization, brightness of skin or pore-blurring of skin. It is preferred that at least three properties are improved. It is preferred that in the method said composition provides facial oil-control for at least 12 hours after single application.
  • composition provides facial moisturisation for at least 8 hours after single application.
  • said composition provides facial skin brightening for at least 4 hours and upto 12 hours after single application. It is preferred that in the method said composition reduces visible pores on facial skin of the pores for at least 4 hours and upto 12 hours after single application.
  • the cream was tested vis-a-vis a comparative cream on volunteers aged between 18 to 45 years with 50:50 ratio of oily skin: normal and dry skin (as per Sebumeter measurement) and visible pores on the face.
  • the volunteers were acclimatized at a temperature of 22°C ⁇ 5°C and relative humidity of 30% ⁇ 10% for 10 to 15 minutes.
  • Required amount of the test product was taken on the fingertip.
  • T est product was applied at different points on the split face (identified as per randomization). The product was spread uniformly with the help of four fingers using circular motion for approximately 1 minute. The uniform application of product was ensured.
  • the dermatological and instrumental assessments were performed at baseline, 4 hours, 8 hours and 12 hours post single application of the test product(s) as per details given below.
  • the skin moisturization lasts for 8 hours in comparison to baseline.
  • Wth the untreated sample in comparison to baseline there was significant deterioration noted at 4 hours, 8 hours and 12 hours in comparison to baseline.
  • Moisturization was noted to be significantly higher at all-time points in comparison to untreated control, implying that the test product was efficacious in maintaining the moisturization for 12 hours compared to untreated control.
  • L* was noted to be significantly higher at 4 hours, 8 hours and 12 hours in comparison to baseline. Wth the untreated sample, L* was noted to be significantly lesser at 4 hours in comparison to baseline. L* was noted to be significantly higher at all-time points in comparison to untreated control, implying that the test product was better when compared to untreated control.
  • the test product was efficacious in providing skin brightness post single application.
  • the mean value was noted to be significantly lesser at 4 hours, 8 hours and 12 hours in comparison to baseline implying that test product was efficacious in reducing the visibility of the pores.
  • the untreated sample there was no change noted in visibility of the pores at any time point of the study in comparison to baseline. The visibility of pores was noted to be significant lesser in comparison to untreated control at all-time points, implying that the test product was efficacious in blurring the pores for 12 hours post product application.

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  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant : i) de l'octénylsuccinate d'amidon d'aluminium ; et, ii) un ingrédient ayant le nom INCI octénylsuccinate d'amidon d'aluminium (et) copolymère d'acrylate (et) carbonate de magnésium.
EP21732020.9A 2020-06-23 2021-06-10 Composition cosmétique pour améliorer l'aspect de la peau Pending EP4167950A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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EP20181717 2020-06-23
PCT/EP2021/065706 WO2021259663A1 (fr) 2020-06-23 2021-06-10 Composition cosmétique pour améliorer l'aspect de la peau

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EP (1) EP4167950A1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2023535547A (fr)
CN (1) CN116234534A (fr)
CA (1) CA3182728A1 (fr)
MX (1) MX2022016144A (fr)
WO (1) WO2021259663A1 (fr)
ZA (1) ZA202212129B (fr)

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CA2349698A1 (fr) * 1998-11-03 2000-05-11 Bristol-Myers Squibb Company Compositions cosmetiques hydratantes contenant un agent de regulation du sebum
CN102198071B (zh) * 2011-06-08 2012-11-28 浙江欧诗漫集团有限公司 一种珍珠美肤控油精华素的制备工艺
US8673325B1 (en) * 2012-09-06 2014-03-18 Dignity Sciences Limited Cosmetic compositions comprising EPA and salicylic acid and methods of making and using same
US9333165B1 (en) * 2014-12-09 2016-05-10 L'oreal Cream to powder cosmetic compositions
WO2018061855A1 (fr) * 2016-09-29 2018-04-05 株式会社マンダム Produit cosmétique en émulsion
CN106265136A (zh) * 2016-10-14 2017-01-04 上海新高姿化妆品有限公司 一种轻薄贴肤的高效防晒cc霜组合物
BR102017025745B1 (pt) 2017-11-30 2022-05-24 Universidade De São Paulo - Usp Base cosmética e processo de obtenção da mesma
CN108078795A (zh) * 2018-01-16 2018-05-29 邓凡 一种控油遮瑕粉底液及其制备方法
US20200000721A1 (en) 2018-06-29 2020-01-02 MedReleaf Corp. Aqueous compositions and associated cream formulations

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ZA202212129B (en) 2024-04-24
CN116234534A (zh) 2023-06-06
MX2022016144A (es) 2023-02-13
WO2021259663A1 (fr) 2021-12-30
JP2023535547A (ja) 2023-08-18

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