EP4167950A1

EP4167950A1 - Cosmetic composition for improving appearance of skin

Info

Publication number: EP4167950A1
Application number: EP21732020.9A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Aditi Jayavant KULKARNI; Ankita Rutu PAWAR
Original assignee: Unilever Global IP Ltd; Unilever IP Holdings BV
Current assignee: Unilever Global IP Ltd; Unilever IP Holdings BV
Priority date: 2020-06-23
Filing date: 2021-06-10
Publication date: 2023-04-26
Also published as: JP2023535547A; CA3182728A1; MX2022016144A; CN116234534A; ZA202212129B; WO2021259663A1

Abstract

Disclosed is a cosmetic composition comprising: i) Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; and, ii) an ingredient having INCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR IMPROVING APPEARANCE OF SKIN

Field of the invention

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for improving appearance of skin.

Background of the invention

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for an improvement in appearance of the skin that is noticeable, preferably instantly. Further, such improvement is preferably long lasting. Alternatively, such an improvement may be easily perceived by the eyes but a machine may be used for this purpose.

Wrinkles and fine lines are perceptible primarily as dark, non-reflective areas because of the way light falls and remains there. In contrast if light is reflected and diffused, the wrinkles are less visible. Methods have been developed to throw light into the wrinkles and immediately eliminate the dark areas. Materials are used that generate an optical blurring. This is called the ^'soft focus effect^' which was described by Dr. Emmert in "Quantification of the Soft-Focus Effect", Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 111, 57-61 (1996). Soft focus or blurring is a technique which can be used to hide or conceal superficial or surface imperfections of the skin. Incoming light is distorted by scattering (lensing).

Sometimes the skin secretes more sebum and this could happen with people of any age. Most of us desire a matte or non-oily appearance of skin, especially facial skin.

Ageing leads to changes to the appearance of skin. Of concern to some individuals, is the appearance of wrinkles, age spots or general unevenness of skin tone.

Our skin is amenable to deterioration due to dermatological disorders, environmental factors such as strong sunlight and due to the normal aging process (chrono-ageing), which may be accelerated by exposure to sun (photo-ageing). In recent years, the demand for cosmetic compositions and cosmetic methods for improving the appearance of skin has grown enormously. Consumers are increasingly seeking cosmetic compositions to treat, delay or conceal the visible signs of chrono-ageing and photo-ageing skin such as wrinkles, fine lines, sagging, hyperpigmentation and age spots. While it is desirable to hide imperfect skin through a matte effect, there is also a desire to achieve a healthy skin radiance. A cosmetic which is too opaque hides the skin under a paint-like coating. Some refer to this as whitening or brightening the skin.

BR102017025745 A2 (UNIV SAO PAULO, 2017) discloses a cosmetic base that presents a pleasant sensory with a dry touch that avoids an oily residue. The composition comprises 3 to 10% tapioca starch, 3 to 10% corn starch. It is disclosed that the two starches act synergistically.

US2020000721A (Medreleaf) discloses aqueous compositions comprising a rheology modifier comprising a water-swelling polymer and a co-emulsifier that are suitable for preparing cream formulations containing an oil. In one example, the composition comprises PPG-3 benzyl ether ethylhexanoate, glycerin and a rheology modifier comprising sodium polyacrylate, ethylhexyl cocoate, PPG- 3 benzyl ether myristate, a co-emulsifier such as polysorbate 20, and an antimicrobial agent.

Summary of the invention

We have determined that a combination of two cosmetic ingredients, when used at particular ratio by weight, provide a variety of cosmetic benefits to the skin, including brightening and moisturization.

In accordance with a first aspect is disclosed a cosmetic composition comprising: i) Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; and, ii) an ingredient having I NCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate; wherein weight ratio of said ingredient having I NCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate composition to said Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate in said composition is from 1:0.5 to 1:5. According to a second aspect is disclosed use of a cosmetic composition of the first aspect to improve at least one property of skin. Preferably the least one property is oil- control, moisturization, brightness of skin or pore-blurring of skin.

According to a third aspect is disclosed a method of improving at least one property of skin comprising treating skin with a cosmetic of the first aspect. Preferably the least one property is oil-control, moisturization, brightness of skin or pore-blurring of skin.

All other aspects of the present invention will more readily become apparent upon considering the detailed description and examples which follow.

Detailed description

Definitions

"Skin" as used herein, is meant to include skin on the face, neck, scalp, underarms, chest, back, arms, hands, legs, scalp, feet, buttocks and abdomen, preferably the hands, neck, face, and underarms.

Superficial imperfections of skin means and includes blemishes (age spots, blotches), pores, fine lines and wrinkles, and grooves (the words "lines," "wrinkles," and grooves being used interchangeably herein). "Age spots" as used herein means any hyperpigmentation (e.g. including solar lentigo), spots and/or freckles.

The term treating or treatment as used herein includes within its scope reducing, delaying and/or preventing the abovementioned skin conditions and generally enhancing the quality of skin and improving its appearance and texture.

By “a cosmetic composition” as used herein, is meant to include a composition for topical application to the skin of mammals, especially human beings. Such a composition may be generally classified as leave-on or rinse off but is preferably leave- on. The composition could be in the form of a liquid, lotion, cream, foam, scrub, gel, or toner, or applied with an implement or via a face mask or a pad. Non-limiting examples include leave-on skin lotions, creams, foundations, sunless tanners and sunscreen lotions.

Except in the examples, or where otherwise explicitly indicated, all numbers in this description indicating amounts of material or conditions of reaction, physical properties of materials and/or use may optionally be understood as modified by the word “about”. All amounts are by weight of the final composition, unless otherwise specified. The term "solid" as used herein means that the material is not fluid at 25°C. It should be noted that in specifying any range of values, a given upper value can be associated with any lower value. For the avoidance of doubt, the word “comprising” is intended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of” or “composed of’. In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive. The disclosure of the invention as found herein is to be considered to cover all embodiments as found in the claims as being multiply dependent upon each other irrespective of the fact that claims may be found without multiple dependency or redundancy. Where a feature is disclosed with respect to a particular aspect of the invention (for example a composition of the invention), such disclosure is also to be considered to apply to any other aspect of the invention (for example a method of the invention) mutatis mutandis. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising: i) Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; and, ii) an ingredient having I NCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate; wherein weight ratio of said ingredient having I NCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate composition to said Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate in said composition is from 1:0.5 to 1:5. INCI standards for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients. The INCI system was established in the early 1970’s by the Personal Care Products Council (former CTFA, Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association) and the list is maintained by the Personal Care Products Council. INCI names are used in the United States, the European Union, China, Japan, and many other countries, for listing ingredients on cosmetic product labels. With few exceptions, the INCI labeling names in all countries are the same.

Further details of INCI names may be found on the website: http://webdictionarv.personalcarecouncil.org/isp/Home.isp Preferably the composition comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% of said ingredient having INCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate.

Further preferably the composition comprises 0.5 to 15 wt% of said Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate. The weight ratio of the ingredient having INCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate composition to said Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate in said composition is from 1:0.5 to 1:5.

Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate is a chemically modified starch, in particular starches that have undergone esterification. Such aluminum starch Octenylsuccinate is commercially available from suppliers like Akzo Nobel or Nouryon under the names Dry Flo® Pure and Dry Flo® PC. A variety of other suppliers sell it under their own brand name. In cosmetics and personal care products, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate is used in the formulation of lotions, powders, makeup and underarm deodorants. It is used as a thickener and binder, anticaking agent and oil absorbent.

The ingredient having INCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate is available, for example, from Nouryon as NATRASORB® HFB. The natural content is 81% and the suggested applications include moisture resistant products, oil control products, anhydrous products, antiperspirant sticks, sunscreen and dry shampoo for a variety of benefits including oil-absorption, mitigation of syneresis and fragrance-retention. The literature of the ingredient from Nouryon discloses that it is crosslinked aluminium starch octenyl succinate surface treated with acrylates copolymer and magnesium carbonate. It has been determined that the cosmetic composition of the invention improves at least one property of skin. The at least one property is preferably oil-control, moisturization, brightness of skin or pore-blurring of skin.

It is preferred that the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a polyacrylate emulsifier or an emulsifier which comprises polyacrylates.

Emulsions are systems composed of two or more immiscible materials, in which one material (the discontinuous or internal phase) is suspended or dispersed throughout another material (the continuous or external phase) in separate droplets. The immiscible phases can be water, oil or silicone.

When emulsions are made surfactants called emulsifiers are used to slow the process of separation of the immiscible phases. Proper use of emulsifier creates homogenous mixtures, dispersions or emulsions of e.g., oily or waxy substances with water.

It is preferred that the emulsifier is shear thinning and non-thixotropic. Depending on the type of rheology modifier, when the formulation is put under high shear stress it can cause a rapid drop in viscosity. The effect is known as shear thinning. Thixotropic liquids show a time dependent rebuild of viscosity after shear force is applied. Once the shearing force is stopped the viscosity recovers with time.

Further preferably the emulsifier is self-emulsifiable and comprises an inverting surfactant Further preferably the shear thinning, non-thixotropic, self-emulsifiable rheology modifier is a polyacrylate polymer dispersed in a carrier oil containing an inverting surfactant.

It is preferred that the emulsifier is a material having I NCI name Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Ethylhexyl Cocoate (and) PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate (and) Polysorbate 20. Such an emulsifier is commercially available as ViscOptima™ SE. ViscOptima™ SE is a polyacrylate polymer dispersed in a carrier oil containing an inverting surfactant. Upon addition to water, ViscOptima SE inverts to form an oil-in-water emulsion allowing the polyacrylate molecules to swell by osmosis and consequently thicken the water phase. ViscOptima SE has shear thinning rheology and is non- thixotropic. This results in a reduction in viscosity when force is applied to the formulation, such as during pumping or spraying, and immediate recovery of the viscosity when the force is no longer applied.

Preferably and alternatively the emulsifier is one or more of Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Isotridecyl Isononanoate (and) Trideceth-6 (available as ViscOptima™ LV), Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Paraffinum Liquidum (and) Trideceth-6 (available as ViscOptima™

PL), Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Trideceth-6 (available as Rapithix A-60), Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Dicaprylyl Carbonate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Caprate (available as Cosmedia ACE), Acrylates/Acrylamide Copolymer and Mineral Oil and Polysorbate 85 (November EC-1) or Sodium polyacrylate available as Cosmedia SP.

Cosmetically acceptable carrier and other ingredients

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention also comprise a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

In some embodiments the carrier is an emulsion, preferably a water-in-oil emulsion. Such emulsions are also called invert emulsions. Alternatively, the composition comprises a carrier which is an oil-kin-water emulsion. It is preferred that the oil phase of such emulsions comprises an emollient, preferably fats, oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, soaps, silicone oils, synthetic esters and/or hydrocarbons. Many organic sunscreens are also hydrophobic materials and may be used alone or in combination with one or more of the foregoing emollients. Silicones may be divided into the volatile and nonvolatile variety. Volatile silicone oils (if used) are preferably chosen from cyclic (cyclomethicone) or linear polydimethylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. It is preferred that nonvolatile silicone is polyalkyl siloxane, polyalkylaryl siloxane or polyether siloxane copolymer. The essentially nonvolatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include, for example, polydimethyl siloxanes. Where the cosnmetic compositions of the invention comprise an arganopolysiloxane crosspolymer, the polymer preferably is dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer or dimethicone crosspolymer available from a variety of suppliers including Dow Corning (9040, 9041, 9045, 9506 and 9509), General Electric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu (KSG-15,

16 and 18 [dimethicone/phenyl vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer]), and Grant Industries (Gransil brand of materials), and lauryl dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers supplied by Shin Etsu (e.g. KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44).

Where the compositions comprise non-silicone emollient, the emollient preferably is stearyl alcohol, glyceryl monoricinoleate, mink oil, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate, stearic acid, isobutyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, octadecan-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, eicosanyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, di-n-butyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate, polyethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, lanolin, cocoa butter, corn oil, cotton seed oil, olive oil, palm kernel oil, rape seed oil, safflower seed oil, evening primrose oil, soybean oil, sunflower seed oil, avocado oil, sesame seed oil, coconut oil, arachis oil, castor oil, acetylated lanolin alcohols, petroleum jelly, mineral oil, butyl myristate, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, isopropyl linoleate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, decyl oleate, myristyl myristate, and mixtures thereof. Among the ester emollients are alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanoate, cetyl ricinoleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate; ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols; polyhydric alcohol esters, butylene glycol, ethylene glycol mono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol 2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty esters, ethoxylated glyceryl mono-stearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters, and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol esters. Particularly useful are pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane and neopentyl glycol esters of C1 to 30 alcohols. Exemplative is pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate; wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti wax and tribehenin wax; sterols esters, of which cholesterol fatty acid esters are examples thereof; sugar ester of fatty acids such as sucrose polybehenate and sucrose polycottonseedate; or mixtures of two or more of the foregoing (a) to (f).

Hydrocarbons which are suitable emollients include petrolatum, mineral oil, C11-C13 isoparaffins, polyalphaolefins, isohexadecane or a mixture thereof.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic material comprises 1 to 25% fatty acid or 0.1 to 80% soap by weight of the composition. Mixtures of fatty acid and soap are also suitable e.g. vanishing cream base which gives a highly appreciated matty feel to the skin. C12 to C20 fatty acids are especially preferred for the present invention, more preferred being C14 to C18 fatty acids. The most preferred fatty acid is stearic acid, palmitic acid or a mixture thereof. The fatty acid in the composition is more preferably present in an amount in the range of 5 to 20% by weight of the composition. Soaps can include alkali metal salt of fatty acids, like sodium or potassium salts, most preferred being potassium stearate. The soap is preferably present in an amount in the range of 0.1 to 10%, more preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight of the composition. Generally a vanishing cream base in skin care compositions is prepared by taking a desired amount of total fatty matter and mixing with potassium hydroxide in desired amounts. The soap is usually formed in-situ during the mixing.

Preferably the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprise 20 to 80 wt% water, more preferably 40 and 75% water. This water forms part of the carrier.

In addition to the ingredients already described, it is preferred that cosmetic compositions of the invention comprises 0.001 to 5 wt%, more preferably 0.05 to 4 wt% of a skin lightening agent. Preferably the skin lightening agent is a vitamin B3 compound or its derivative e.g. niacin, nicotinic acid or niacinamide. More preferred skin lightening agent is niacinamide. Alternatively the skin lightening agent is at least one of aloe extract, ammonium lactate, anethole derivatives, apple extract, arbutin, azelaic acid, kojic acid, bamboo extract, bearberry extract, bletilla tuber, bupleurum falcatum extract, burnet extract, butyl hydroxy anisole, butyl hydroxy toluene, citrate esters, Chuanxiong, Dang-Gui, deoxyarbutin, 1,3-diphenyl propane derivatives, 2,5- dihydroxybenzoic acid and its derivatives, 2-(4-acetoxyphenyl)-1,3-dithane, 2-(4- hydroxyphenyl)-1,3-dithane, ellagic acid, escinol, estragole derivatives, Fadeout (Pentapharm), Fangfeng, fennel extract, ganoderma extract, gaoben, Gatuline Whitening (Gattlefosse), genistic acid and its derivatives, glabridin and its derivatives, gluco pyranosyl-1 -ascorbate, gluconic acid, glycolic acid, green tea extract, 4-hydroxy- 5-methyl-3[2H]-furanone, hydroquinone, 4-hydroxyanisole and its derivatives, 4- hydroxy benzoic acid derivatives, hydroxycaprylic acid, inositol ascorbate, lemon extract, linoleic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Melawhite (Pentapharm), morus alba extract, mulberry root extract, 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, parsley extract, phellinus linteus extract, pyrogallol derivatives, 2,4-resorcinol derivatives, 3,5-resorcinol derivatives, rose fruit extract, salicylic acid, Song-Yi extract, 3,4,5-trihydroxybenzyl derivatives, tranexamic acid, vitamins like vitamin B6, vitamin B12, vitamin C and its derivatives, vitamin A, dicarboxylic acids, extracts from plants viz. rubia and symplocos, hydroxycarboxylic acids like lactic acid and their salts e.g. sodium lactate, and mixtures thereof.

Further preferably the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprises one or more organic sunscreens. A wide variety of organic sunscreen agents are suitable for use in combination with the essential ingredients of this invention. Suitable UV-A/UV-B sunscreen agents include, 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl p-aminobenzoic acid, digalloyltrioleate, 2,2- dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl-4-(bis(hydroxypropyl)) aminobenzoate, 2- ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2-ethylhexylsalicylate, glyceryl p- aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate, methylanthranilate, p-dimethyl- aminobenzoic acid or aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethyl-amino-benzoate, 2- phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2-(p-dimethylaminophenyl)-5-sulfonicbenzoxazoic acid, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid and mixtures thereof. The most suitable organic sunscreens are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane or a mixture thereof.

A safe and effective amount of organic sunscreen may be used in the compositions useful in the subject invention. The composition preferably comprises from 0.1% to 10%, more preferably from 0.1% to 5%, of organic sunscreen agent.

Other materials which can be included in the cosmetically acceptable carrier include solvents, humectants, thickeners and powders. Examples of each of these types of material, which can be used singly or as mixtures, are as follows:

Solvents include ethyl alcohol, isopropanol, acetone, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and mixtures thereof.

Humectants include those of the polyhydric alcohol-type. Typical polyhydric alcohols include polyalkylene glycols and more preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycerol, ethoxylated glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. The amount of humectant may range, for example, anywhere from 0.5 to 50%, more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight of the composition. Most preferred is glycerol (also known as glycerin). Amounts of glycerin may range, for example, from 0.5% to 50%, more preferably from 1 to 35%, optimally from 2 to 15% by weight of the composition.

A variety of thickening agents may be included in the compositions. Illustrative but not limiting are stearic acid, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (Aristoflex AVC), Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltau rate Copolymer, Aluminum Starch Octenyl Succinate, Polyacrylates (such as Carbomers including Carbopol® 980, Carbopol® 1342, Pemulen® TR-2 and the Ultrez® thickeners, Polysaccharides (including xanthan gum, guar gum, pectin, carageenan and sclerotium gums), celluloses (including carboxymethyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxymethyl cellulose), minerals (including talc, silica, alumina, mica and clays, the latter being represented by bentonites, hectorites and attapulgites), magnesium aluminum silicate and mixtures thereof. Amounts of the thickeners may range, for example, from 0.05 to 10%, more preferably from 0.3 to 5% by weight of the composition.

Powders include chalk, talc, Fullers earth, kaolin, starch, gums, colloidal silica sodium polyacrylate, tetraalkyl and/or trialkyl aryl ammonium smectites, chemically modified magnesium aluminium silicate, organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminium silicate, fumed silica, carboxyvinyl polymer, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose and ethylene glycol monostearate.

Cosmetic compositions of the invention preferably comprise a non-silica hydrophilic inorganic thickener which swells by intercalating a polar liquid. Preferably the compositions comprise 0.5 to 10 wt% of said hydrophilic inorganic thickener. This amount would depend on several other factors such as the wt% of the microspheres and the nature of the cosmetic composition, i.e. , a cream or a lotion or a gel. The term non-silica means that the inorganic thickener is not a thickening silica or any other silica-based thickener. More preferably the compositions of this invention comprise 0.5 to 5 wt%, most preferably 0.5 to 3 wt% of the non-silica hydrophilic inorganic. It is preferred that the inorganic thickener is at least one of magnesium-aluminium silicate, a layered silicate, smectite, hectorite, bentonite, montmorillonite or phyllosilicate. More preferably the inorganic thickener is smectite or magnesium-aluminium silicate. Several grades of magnesium-aluminium silicates are commercially available, for example, the VEEGUM® range of thickeners such as Normal Fast Ultra, VEEGUM® K, VEEGUM® HV, VEEGUM® PURE, VEEGUM® CH, VEEGUM® HS, VEEGUM® D, VEEGUM® Ultra and the VANATURAL range of thickeners such as VANATURAL® MC. The VANATURAL® range is of the bentonite clay type.

While not necessary, the magnesium-aluminium silicate or smectite may be used in the form of combination or blend of the thickener with a natural organic gum or natural organic thickener. An example thereof is VANATURAL® XGB (Bentonite and Xanthan Gum). Other examples include VAN GEL SX (smectite clay and xanthan gum) and VEEGUM CER (smectite clay and cellulose gum). Other such blends could include polyacrylates, carbomers, cellulose, sodium, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methylcellulose, xanthan gum, sodium carrageenan, sodium alginate, hydroxypropyl guar, gum arabic (acacia) or gum tragacanth.

Other preferred forms of smectite include sodium magnesium silicates, organically modified smectites including tetra alkyl and/or trialkyl ammonium smectites (organically modified montmorillonite clays) such as quaternium-18 bentonite, quaternium-18 hectorite, stearalkonium bentonite and stearalkonium hectorite; and mixtures thereof.

“Silicone elastomer” as used herein refers to deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties. Preferably the cosmetic composition comprises a silicone elastomer.

It is preferred that the silicone elastomer is cross-linked. The silicone elastomer can be obtained from curable organo-polysiloxanes. Examples in this respect are: addition reaction-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure under platinum metal catalysis by the addition reaction between SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane and organopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded vinyl groups; condensation-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure in the presence of an organotin compound by a dehydrogenation reaction between hydroxyl terminated diorganopolysiloxane and SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane; condensation-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure in the presence of an organotin compound or a titanate ester, by a condensation reaction between a hydroxyl terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organosilane (this condensation reaction is exemplified by dehydration, alcohol-liberating, oxime-liberating, amine- liberating, amide-liberating, carboxyl-liberating, and ketone-liberating reactions); peroxide-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which thermally cure in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; and organopolysiloxane compositions which are cured by high-energy radiation, such as by gamma-rays, ultraviolet radiation or electron beams. The silicone elastomer is preferably obtained by addition reaction-curing organopolysiloxane compositions which cure under platinum metal catalysis by the addition reaction between SiH-containing diorganopolysiloxane and organopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded vinyl groups

The silicone elastomer may either be an emulsifying or non-emulsifying cross-linked silicone elastomer or a combination thereof but preferably the silicone elastomer is non-emulsifying. The term “non-emulsifying,” as used herein, defines cross-linked silicone elastomer from which poly-oxyalkylene units are absent. The term “emulsifying,” as used herein, means cross-linked organo-polysiloxane elastomer having at least one poly-oxyalkylene (e.g., poly-oxyethylene or poly-oxypropylene) unit.

Preferred silicone elastomers are organo-polysiloxanes available under the I NCI names of dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer and Polysilicone-11. More preferably the silicone elastomer is dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

Preferably, the cosmetic compositions of the invention comprise 0.1 to 10 wt% of the silicone elastomer, more preferably 0.5 to 8 wt%, even more preferably 1 to 5 wt%.

The compositions of the invention may comprise 1 to 25 wt% fatty acid or 0.1 to 80 wt% soap by weight of the composition. Mixtures of fatty acid and soap are also suitable e.g., forming a vanishing cream base which lends a matte feel to the skin. C12- 20 fatty acids are especially preferred, more preferred being C14-18 fatty acids. The most preferred fatty acid is stearic acid, myristic acid or a mixture thereof. When present, the composition comprises 5 to 20 wt% of the fatty acids or soap. Soaps in the hydrophobic material can include alkali metal salt of fatty acids, like sodium or potassium salts, most preferred being potassium stearate. Generally, a vanishing cream base in cosmetic compositions is prepared by taking a desired amount of total fatty matter and mixing with potassium hydroxide in desired amounts. The soap is usually formed in-situ during the mixing.

Preferably, the composition comprises a whitening pigment. The whitening pigment are typically particles of high refractive index materials. For example, the whitening pigment may have a refractive index of greater than 1 .3, more preferably greater than 1 .8 and most preferably from 2.0 to 2.7. Examples of such whitening pigment are those comprising bismuth oxy-chloride barium sulfate, mica, silica, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, aluminum oxide, zinc oxide or combinations thereof. More preferred whitening pigment are particles comprising titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, mica, iron oxide or a combination thereof. Even more preferred whitening pigment are particles comprising zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, titanium dioxide or a combination thereof as these materials have especially high refractive index. Still even more preferably the whitening pigment is selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or a mixture thereof and most preferred whitening pigment is titanium dioxide.

The average diameter of whitening pigment is typical from 15 nm to 2 pm, more preferably from 35 nm to 800 nm, even more preferably from 50 nm to 500 nm and still even more preferably from 100 to 300 nm. Diameter of whitening pigment refers to the diameter of particles in an un-aggregated state. In the event a well-defined sphere is not generated, diameter means the largest measurable distance on a particle The average diameter may be measured for example by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) or transmission electron microscopy (TEM) by averaging the value of at least one hundred particles. Preferably the composition comprises 0.001 to 10 wt% whitening pigment, more preferably 0.01 to 6 wt%, more preferably still 0.1 to 3 wt% and most preferably 0.2 to 2 wt% whitening pigment.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may further comprise other ingredients which are common in the art to enhance physical properties and performances.

Suitable ingredients include but are not limited to binders, colorants and pigments, pH adjusting agents, preservatives, optics, perfumes, viscosity modifiers, biological additives, buffering agents, conditioners, natural extracts, essential oils and skin benefit agents including anti-inflammatory agents, cooling agents, antiperspirant agents, anti- aging agents, anti-acne agents, anti-microbial agents and antioxidants.

The composition can be formulated in any known format. Further the cosmetic composition of the invention can be a leave-on or a wash-off composition, more preferably the cosmetic composition of the invention is a leave-on cosmetic. Further preferably the cosmetic composition of the invention is a cream, gel-creme or lotion.

The skin care composition of this invention is a composition suitable for topical application to human skin, including leave-on and wash-off products. The term "leave- on" as used with reference to compositions herein means a composition that is applied to or rubbed on the skin and left thereon. The term "wash-off" as used with reference to compositions herein means a skin cleanser that is applied to or rubbed on the skin and rinsed off substantially immediately subsequent to application.

Packaging for the composition of this invention can be a jar or tube as well as any other format typically seen for cosmetic, cream, washing and lotion type products. The compositions may be applied topically and preferably 1 to 4 milligrams of composition is applied per square centimeter of skin.

Use and Method

In accordance with a second aspect is disclosed use of a cosmetic composition of the first aspect to improve at least one property of skin. Preferably the at least one property is oil- control, moisturization, brightness of skin or pore-blurring of skin. Further preferably at least two of the aforesaid properties are improved. More preferably three of the aforesaid properties are improved. Further preferably all four properties are improved.

Oil-control

It is preferred that the composition provides facial oil-control for at least 12 hours after single application. Sebum is skin oil which is produced by sebocytes (cells of the sebaceous glands in the skin) and is then secreted to the skin surface. A frequent and undesirable skin condition is “oily skin,” the condition which results from the excessive amount of sebum on the skin. Oily skin is associated with a shiny, undesirable appearance and a disagreeable tactile sensation and affects various age groups. Usually the extent of oil-control is measured by a tool called Sebumeter and generally on the forehead of the person. Moisturisation

In a further aspect is disclosed the use of the composition of the first aspect facial moisturisation for at least 8 hours after single application. Preferably a Corneometer is used for this analysis. The Corneometer CM820PC (Courage & Khazaha, Kohl, Germany) is a device widely used in the cosmetic industry. It allows high frequency, alternating voltage electrical measurements of skin capacitance to be safely made via an electrode applied to the skin surface. The parameters measured have been found to vary with skin hydration. However, they may also vary with many other factors such as skin temperature, sweat gland activity, and the composition of any applied product. The Corneometer can only give directional changes in the water content of the upper stratum corneum under favourable circumstances but even here the quantitative interpretations may prove misleading.

Skin brightening In a further aspect is disclosed the use of a composition of the first aspect for providing facial skin brightening for at least 4 hours and upto 12 hours after single application. Preferably the extent of brightening is measured using a Spectrophotometer and expressed using the L* value. Further preferably on the forehead of a subject. Pore reduction

In a further aspect is disclosed the use of a composition of the first aspect for reducing visible pores on facial skin of the pores for at least 4 hours and upto 12 hours after single application. Preferably the pore reduction is measured as pore blurring on front, left and right side of face of a subject. The light settings preferably are CP, PP, S1 and S2 lighting modes., using Visia® analysis.

Method

In accordance with another aspect is disclosed a method of improving at least one property of skin comprising treating skin with a cosmetic composition of the first aspect.

Preferably the at least one property is oil-control, moisturization, brightness of skin or pore-blurring of skin. It is preferred that at least three properties are improved. It is preferred that in the method said composition provides facial oil-control for at least 12 hours after single application.

It is preferred that in the method said composition provides facial moisturisation for at least 8 hours after single application.

It is preferred that in the method said composition provides facial skin brightening for at least 4 hours and upto 12 hours after single application. It is preferred that in the method said composition reduces visible pores on facial skin of the pores for at least 4 hours and upto 12 hours after single application.

All other preferred features as described under use of the composition, are applicable mutatis mutandis to this aspect of the invention.

The following examples are provided to facilitate an understanding of the invention.

The examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claims.

Examples

Example 1

For this experiment, a cosmetic face cream was formulated. The composition is described in Table 1.

Table 1

Testing: The cream was tested vis-a-vis a comparative cream on volunteers aged between 18 to 45 years with 50:50 ratio of oily skin: normal and dry skin (as per Sebumeter measurement) and visible pores on the face. The volunteers were acclimatized at a temperature of 22°C± 5°C and relative humidity of 30% ± 10% for 10 to 15 minutes. Required amount of the test product was taken on the fingertip. T est product was applied at different points on the split face (identified as per randomization). The product was spread uniformly with the help of four fingers using circular motion for approximately 1 minute. The uniform application of product was ensured. The dermatological and instrumental assessments were performed at baseline, 4 hours, 8 hours and 12 hours post single application of the test product(s) as per details given below.

Oil control - Sebumeter- right and left side of forehead Moisturisation - Corneometer - cheek (Left and Right)

Brightness (L*) - Spectrophotometer - right and left side of forehead Pore blurring - Visia - Front, left and right side of face under light settings: CP, PP, S1 and S2 lighting modes

The data was analysed statistically and is presented in Table 2.

Table 2

The data in Table 2 indicates that: Sebum was noted to be significantly lesser at 4 hours, 8 hours and 12 hours in comparison to baseline implying that test product was efficacious in sebum control for 12 hours. With the untreated sample, there was significant increase noted in sebum at 4, 8 and 12 hours in comparison to baseline. Sebum was noted to be significant lesser in comparison to untreated control at all-time points, implying that the test product was efficacious in sebum control for 12 hours post product application.

Moisturization was noted to be significantly higher at 4 hours in comparison to baseline. The skin moisturization lasts for 8 hours in comparison to baseline. Wth the untreated sample in comparison to baseline, there was significant deterioration noted at 4 hours, 8 hours and 12 hours in comparison to baseline.

Moisturization was noted to be significantly higher at all-time points in comparison to untreated control, implying that the test product was efficacious in maintaining the moisturization for 12 hours compared to untreated control.

In the Composition 1, L* was noted to be significantly higher at 4 hours, 8 hours and 12 hours in comparison to baseline. Wth the untreated sample, L* was noted to be significantly lesser at 4 hours in comparison to baseline. L* was noted to be significantly higher at all-time points in comparison to untreated control, implying that the test product was better when compared to untreated control. The test product was efficacious in providing skin brightness post single application. In the case of pore blurring, the mean value was noted to be significantly lesser at 4 hours, 8 hours and 12 hours in comparison to baseline implying that test product was efficacious in reducing the visibility of the pores. As far as the untreated sample was concerned, there was no change noted in visibility of the pores at any time point of the study in comparison to baseline. The visibility of pores was noted to be significant lesser in comparison to untreated control at all-time points, implying that the test product was efficacious in blurring the pores for 12 hours post product application.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: i) Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate; and, ii) an ingredient having I NCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate; wherein weight ratio of said ingredient having I NCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate composition to said Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate in said composition is from 1:0.5 to 1:5.

2. A cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1 wherein said wherein said composition comprises 0.1 to 5 wt% of said ingredient having I NCI name Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate.

3. A cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2 wherein said composition comprises 0.5 to 15 wt% of said Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate.

4. A cosmetic composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 3 wherein said composition comprises a polyacrylate emulsifier or an emulsifier which comprise polyacrylates.

5. A cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 4 wherein said emulsifier is shear thinning and non-thixotropic.

6. A cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 5 wherein said emulsifier is self- emulsifiable and comprises an inverting surfactant.

7. A cosmetic composition as claimed in any of claims 4 to 6 wherein said shear thinning, non-thixotropic, self-emulsifiable rheology modifier is a polyacrylate polymer dispersed in a carrier oil containing an inverting surfactant.

8. A cosmetic composition as claimed in claim 7 wherein said emulsifier is a material having I NCI name Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Ethylhexyl Cocoate (and) PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate (and) Polysorbate 20.

9. Use of a cosmetic composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 8 to improve at least one property of skin.

10. Use as claimed in claim 9 wherein said at least one property is oil-control, moisturization, brightness of skin or pore-blurring of skin.

11. Use as claimed in claim 10 wherein at least three properties are improved.

12. Use as claimed in claim 10 or 11 wherein said composition provides facial oil- control for at least 12 hours after single application.

13. Use as claimed in claim 10 or 11 wherein said composition provides facial moisturisation for at least 8 hours after single application.

14. A method of improving at least one property of skin comprising treating skin with a cosmetic composition as claimed in any of claims 1 to 8.