EP4138763A1

EP4138763A1 - Foaming makeup remover

Info

Publication number: EP4138763A1
Application number: EP21793678.0A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Xiaodong He; Pauline SAUREL; Julie SAINTECATHERINE; Lise MASSON
Original assignee: Elegant Best Investment Ltd
Current assignee: Elegant Best Investment Ltd
Priority date: 2020-04-22
Filing date: 2021-04-21
Publication date: 2023-03-01
Also published as: WO2021214674A1; FR3109526B1; CN115867247A; US20230165762A1; JP2023524399A; FR3109526A1; KR20230004734A

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for makeup removal in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: - a lipophilic phase amounting to between 35% and 60% of the total weight of the composition, - a non-ionic hydrophilic surfactant assembly comprising at least one alkylpolyglucoside, - and at least one gelling agent amounting to between 0.3% and 0.8% of the total weight of the composition, the gelling agent being: - at least one clay and/or - at least one polysaccharide gum.

Description

Foaming make-up remover

Technical field of the invention

The present invention relates in particular to a cosmetic composition and the use of this cosmetic composition for removing make-up from a keratin material.

Technical background

Removing make-up from the skin is an essential step in facial care. It must be done daily. It helps get rid of impurities, pollution residues and makeup.

Among the many cosmetic compositions for makeup removal, makeup remover foams have the advantage of being soft and refreshing.

However, it is difficult to formulate makeup removing foams which are both comfortable on the skin and have good makeup removing properties.

Thus, foaming make-up removers in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion are comfortable on application due to their oily phase but have very poor foaming properties.

Conversely, compositions such as foaming gels which contain a high content of foaming surfactants have good foaming properties but are more aggressive for the skin than oil-in-water emulsions.

In this context, there is a need for a cosmetic makeup removal composition which exhibits one or more of the following qualities:

- excellent efficiency for removing both aqueous and anhydrous make-up,

-easy application,

-a good ability to form a foam,

-a comfortable application.

Summary of the invention

To meet this need, the inventors have formulated a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion with a high percentage of oil which has both good foaming properties and is easy to apply. This cosmetic composition forms a foam which breaks during make-up removal and makes it possible to remove both aqueous make-up and anhydrous make-up. An object of the present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition for makeup removal in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

- a lipophilic phase in a content by weight of between 35% and 60% relative to the total weight of the composition,

a nonionic hydrophilic surfactant assembly comprising at least one alkylpolyglucoside,

at least one gelling agent with a content by weight of between 0.3% and 0.8% relative to the total weight of the composition, the gelling agent being:

- at least one clay and / or

- at least one polysaccharide gum.

Detailed description of the invention

Definitions

The expression “between ... and ...” should be understood with the limits included. Throughout the present application and unless it is specified otherwise, the percentages are percentages by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition as defined above.

Typically, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is foaming.

It can be in the form of a single-phase fluid emulsion such as a milk or multiphase such as a two-phase oil / emulsion emulsion. It can also be in the form of a foam when a gas, preferably air, is dispersed in this composition.

Lipophilic phase

As indicated below, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

Oil-in-water emulsions comprising a lipophilic phase dispersed in a hydrophilic phase.

The lipophilic phase, also called oily or fatty phase, consists of the lipophilic constituents, that is to say oils and other lipophilic bodies present in the composition, as well as all the lipophilic additives which may be present.

The content by weight of the lipophilic phase is between 35% and 60% relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the content by weight of the lipophilic phase is between 45% and 55% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the lipophilic phase contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. The term “oil” is understood to mean a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature.

The oil can be chosen from oils of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin.

The oil may for example be selected from the group consisting of an alkane such as paraffin, petrolatum, isohexadecane and isododecane, a fatty ester, a fatty ether or a mixture thereof.

In a preferred embodiment, the oil is a fatty ester or a mixture of fatty esters.

Preferably, the composition does not include fatty alcohol.

As fatty ester, there may be mentioned, for example, CETIOL C5C®, NIKKOL IPIS®, CRODAMOL PTIS ™ and LIPONATE NPGC-2®.

Hydrophilic phase

Advantageously, the hydrophilic phase comprises water and therefore can also be called the aqueous phase.

Besides water, the hydrophilic phase can also include other hydrophilic solvents such as alcohol, for example ethanol or isopropanol.

The hydrophilic phase also comprises hydrophilic compounds other than the hydrophilic solvent (s).

According to a preferred embodiment, the oil / water ratio is between 0.5 and 1.5.

Surfactant

The composition according to the invention comprises a nonionic hydrophilic surfactant assembly.

According to a preferred embodiment, the content of the surfactant assembly is between 5% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the surfactant set has a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of between 12 and 18, more preferably between 14 and 16.

The hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant (in English hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB)) is a measure of the degree of hydrophilicity or lipophilicity well known to those skilled in the art (Griffin, William C. (1949), "Classification of Surface-Active Agents by 'HLB'" (PDF), Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 1 (5): 31 1 -26, Griffin, William C. (1954), "Calculation of HLB Values of Non-lonic Surfactants", Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 5 (4): 249-56, "The HLB System. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier selection ”(published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984).

A surfactant set with an HLB of between 12 and 18 and more preferably between 14 and 16 makes it possible to obtain a composition with a good ability to form foam.

The surfactant assembly comprises at least one alkylpolyglucoside. Alkylpolyglucosides are known to those skilled in the art. They preferably have the formula [CeHnOsHCeHioOsJ _n OR where R is an alkyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and n is an average value of zero or greater than 0.

According to a preferred embodiment, the surfactant assembly does not include an amphoteric surfactant.

Gelling agent

As indicated above, the cosmetic composition according to the invention has a gelling agent content which is between 0.3% and 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. More preferably, the content of gelling agent is between 0.4% and 0.6%, even more preferably 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Typically, if the concentration of gelling agent is too high, the cosmetic composition will be too viscous and it will not be able to form a foam. If the concentration of the gelling agent is too low, the emulsion will be unstable.

The concentration of the gelling agent therefore makes it possible to obtain the desired viscosity for the cosmetic composition, which then has both a good ability to form foam and to form a stable emulsion.

Thus, preferably, the viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the invention measured at room temperature at t = 60 seconds with the RM 100 PLUS LAMY RHEOLOGY type measuring device is between 200 cP and 400 cP.

The at least one gelling agent of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is at least one clay and / or at least one polysaccharide gum.

The clay can be selected from the group consisting of bentonite, montmorillonite, saponite, hectorite, fluorohectorite, beidellite, nontronite, vermiculite, halloysite, ghassoul, stevensite and a mixture of these. The clay is preferably hectorite, bentonite, montmorillonite and / or a mixture thereof. this. These clays are in fact commonly used as a viscosity control agent in cosmetic products. More preferably, the clay is hectorite.

The polysaccharide gum can be selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, tara gum, carrageenan gum, gellan gum, rhizobian gum, sclerotium rolfssii gum and a mixture of these. The polysaccharide gum is preferably xanthan gum.

According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one gelling agent of the cosmetic composition is a clay, more preferably hectorite. Thus, the cosmetic composition has better stability and better ability to form foam.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise a crosslinked polymer or copolymer of a monomer, cationic or anionic, with ethylenic unsaturation, such as carbomers.

Others

The cosmetic composition can also comprise any other compound which can be used in the cosmetics field.

Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can comprise active principles such as, for example, moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, anti-sebohrréic agents, preservatives, vitamins, antioxidants, trace elements and / or agents. perfumes.

Foam dispensing device

The present invention also relates to a foam dispensing device comprising a reservoir which comprises the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

Foam dispensing devices are usually found on the market (WO97 / 13585, EP0613728). Usually, in addition to their reservoir, the foam dispensing devices include a foaming means. The foaming means allows the dispersion of a gas in liquid from the tank.

In the present case, the foam distribution device therefore comprises a foam-forming means for dispersing a gas in the cosmetic composition obtained from the reservoir.

Preferably, the foam dispensing device does not include a propellant gas. The foam is formed by a dispersion of air in the cosmetic composition. Use

The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the cosmetic composition as defined above as a make-up removal product.

The present invention also relates to a process for removing make-up from a keratin material chosen from the group consisting of the skin, the lips, the hair, the eyelashes and the eyebrows in which the cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the keratin material. .

Preferably, the keratin material which is removed by the cosmetic composition according to the invention is the skin, the lips, the eyelashes and / or the eyebrows. According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a makeup remover. It can be used to remove any type of makeup such as lipstick, foundation, mascara and / or eye shadow. The cosmetic composition according to the invention has the advantage of being able to remove both aqueous and oily make-up. The invention will be further illustrated by the following figure and examples. However, this figure and these examples should not be interpreted as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Brief description of the figures

[Fig. 1] Figure 1 shows the comparison of the make-up removing properties on an anhydrous lipstick (Powermatte Lip Pigment by NARS Cosmetics), on a water-based waterproof mascara (Lash augmented mascara by Nocibé) and on a tinted lip ink ( Lip Tattoo by Dior Addict) of a makeup removing composition according to one embodiment of the invention versus a commercial makeup remover.

Examples

Materials and methods

The water and the gelling agent are placed in a 250 ml beaker and then a gel is formed by stirring the composition for 10 minutes at 600 revolutions / minute using a TURBOTEST EVO RAYNERI device fitted with a stator at grooves, this being placed centrally in the beaker.

The surfactants are then added to the gel obtained and then the whole is homogenized for 5 minutes at 600 revolutions / minute using a TURBOTEST EVO RAYNERI device fitted with a grooved stator, the latter being placed centrally. in the beaker.

The emulsion is then produced by gradually pouring the previously homogenized fatty phase into the hydrophilic phase with stirring at 3300 revolutions / minute for 5 minutes still using a TURBOTEST EVO RAYNERI fitted with a grooved stator, this stator being placed centrally in the beaker.

Finally, the active ingredient is added to the emulsion obtained and then the whole is homogenized for 5 minutes at 3000 revolutions / minute using a TURBOTEST EVO RAYNERI device fitted with a stator with grooves, the latter being placed central way into the beaker.

The viscosity of the emulsion obtained is then measured at t = 60 seconds at room temperature, using an RM 100 PLUS LAMY RHEOLOGY viscometer with the following parameters:

-MS-R3 measuring system; speed 45 rpm for emulsions with a viscosity between 72 cP and 21,600,000 cP

-MS-DIN 1 1 measuring system; speed 193.65 revolutions / minute for emulsions with a viscosity between 3 cP and 1,000,000 cP Finally, the emulsion obtained is transferred to packaging of the foam pump type without propellant gas and it is observed whether any foam is obtained.

If foam is obtained with the composition tested by this method, the foaming properties of the composition tested are considered acceptable and workable.

Results

Foaming properties [Table 1]

The commercial products used in these three examples have the following INCI names:

KELTROL CG-F: Xanthan gum BENTONE EW CE: Hectorite LAPONITE XLG: Lithium magnesium sodium silicate

CREMOPHOR CO 40: PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil

ORAMIX CG110: Caprylyl / capryl glucoside

ORAMIX NS10: Decyl glucoside

CETIOL C5C: Coco-caprylate / caprate

NIKKOL IPIS: Isopropyl isostearate

CRODAMOL PTIS: Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate

LIPONATE NPGC-2: Neopentylglycol dicaprylate / dicaprate

PHYTOFOAM: Aqua (and) Acacia Concinna Fruit Extract (and) Balanites Aegyptiaca Fruit Extract (and) Gypsophila Paniculata Root Extract

The compositions of Examples 1 to 3 have satisfactory foaming properties, unlike the composition of Example 4 and the foaming cleansing gel-cream available on the market with a polyacrylate type gelling agent.

Effect of viscosity on foam production

We are studying the relationship between viscosity and foam production from different emulsions containing different percentages of the same gelling agent.

The compositions tested have the following formulation:

-8.0% of a surfactant set whose average HLB is between 12 and 16 and comprising at least one surfactant of glucoside type -variable concentrations of a gelling agent of clay or xanthan type -50% of a mixture oily including cleansing or moisturizing oils - water (qsp)

The percentages of gelling agents used are: 0%; 0.2%; 0.5%; 0.8% and 1%.

The results are summarized in the following table:

[Table 2] The results obtained show that the tests, the viscosity of which is greater than approximately 400 cP, do not make it possible to obtain a foam.

Make-up removing properties

The makeup removing properties of the composition of Example 2 were compared with those of a commercial makeup remover having an oily phase weight content of less than 20% (Figure 1).

The composition of Example 2 showed better make-up removing properties both on an anhydrous-based lipstick, on a water-based waterproof mascara and on a tinted lip ink.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for makeup removal in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, characterized in that it comprises:

- a nonionic hydrophilic surfactant assembly comprising at least one alkylpolyglucoside,

- at least one gelling agent with a weight content of between 0.3% and 0.8% relative to the total weight of the composition, the gelling agent being:

- at least one clay and / or

- at least one polysaccharide gum.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the gelling agent is a clay.

3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the surfactant assembly has a hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) of between 12 and 18.

4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the content by weight of the surfactant assembly is between 5% and 10% relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the oil / water ratio is between 0.5 and 1 .5.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the content by weight of the lipophilic phase is between 45% and 55% relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is a makeup remover.

8. A foam dispensing device comprising a reservoir which comprises the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7.

9. Cosmetic use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 as a makeup removal product.

10. Process for removing make-up from a keratin material, characterized in that the cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 is applied to the keratin material.