EP4118261A1 - Fibre élastique, fils composites et tissus à performance anti-glissement - Google Patents

Fibre élastique, fils composites et tissus à performance anti-glissement

Info

Publication number
EP4118261A1
EP4118261A1 EP21718264.1A EP21718264A EP4118261A1 EP 4118261 A1 EP4118261 A1 EP 4118261A1 EP 21718264 A EP21718264 A EP 21718264A EP 4118261 A1 EP4118261 A1 EP 4118261A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
fiber
slip
yarn
fabric
composite yarn
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21718264.1A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Tianyi Liao
Nicholas E. Kurland
Hong Liu
Yucheng HUANG
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Lycra Co UK Ltd
Original Assignee
Lycra Co UK Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Lycra Co UK Ltd filed Critical Lycra Co UK Ltd
Publication of EP4118261A1 publication Critical patent/EP4118261A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F1/00—General methods for the manufacture of artificial filaments or the like
    • D01F1/02—Addition of substances to the spinning solution or to the melt
    • D01F1/10—Other agents for modifying properties
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F6/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F6/58—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from homopolycondensation products
    • D01F6/70—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from homopolycondensation products from polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
    • D01F6/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof
    • D01F6/88—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds
    • D01F6/94—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from mixtures of polycondensation products as major constituent with other polymers or low-molecular-weight compounds of other polycondensation products
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane

Definitions

  • ELASTIC FIBER, COMPOSITE YARNS AND FABRICS WITH ANTI-SLIPPAGE PERFORMANCE FIELD This disclosure relates to the manufacture of elastomeric fiber, composite yarns and fabrics with improved seam slippage resistance performance. More specifically, the disclosure relates to elastomeric fiber with anti-slip polymeric additives, as well as elastomeric composite yarns, fabrics and articles of manufacture comprising the elastomeric fiber.
  • BACKGROUND Stretch fabrics with elastic composite yarn have been on the market for many years in many applications. Fabric and garment manufacturers generally know how to make fabrics with the right quality parameters to achieve fabrics acceptable to consumers. However, elastane fiber slippage often happens during garment manufacturing or consumer home laundry.
  • Elastic fiber when used in a woven fabric, is typically covered with a rigid yarn. Slippage of these yarns, oftentimes referred to as elastane yarns, occurs when the elastane yarn slips loose from a sewn seam, resulting in a loss of elasticity in the area where the elastane yarn has slipped. Sometimes, there is no visual indication that slippage has occurred. However, often, slippage can be observed as white whiskers of bare elastane yarn sticking up through the surface of the fabric. This slippage is therefore particularly noticeable on the dark fabrics.
  • elastomeric fiber with good anti-slip performance which anchors well and prevents slipping away from garment seams.
  • elastomeric fibers and composite yarns, fabrics and articles of manufacture comprising elastomeric fiber exhibiting improved elastane slippage resistance, easy stretch, easy processing, low shrinkage, facile garment making, excellent recovery power and low growth.
  • An aspect of the present invention relates to an elastomeric fiber with improved seam-slippage performance comprising a polymeric additive with a glass transition below 100oC.
  • the elastomer is spandex.
  • the polymeric additive is a polyurethane comprising bis(4- isocyanatocyclohexyl) methane and N-alkyldiethanolamine or a derivative thereof.
  • the polymeric additive is a long side chain copolymer comprising a reaction product of polystyrene and maleic anhydride.
  • Another aspect of the present invention relates to an elastomeric composite yarn comprising the anti-slip elastomer fiber.
  • the elastomeric composite yarn comprises a core comprising the anti-slip elastomer fiber surrounded by, twisted with, or intermingled with hard fiber in the yarn surface which serves to protect the elastomeric fibers from abrasion during textile processes and helps to stabilize the elastic behavior of the elastomeric fiber.
  • Composite yarns of this invention may include, but are not limited to single wrapping of the elastomer fibers with a hard yarn; double wrapping of the elastomer fibers with a hard yarn; continuously covering (i.e., core spun or core-spinning) an elastomer fiber with staple fibers, followed by twisting during winding; intermingling and entangling elastomer and hard yarns with an air jet; and twisting an elastomer fibers and hard yarns together.
  • Another aspect of the present invention relates to a woven stretch fabric having warp and weft yarns and comprising a composite yarn comprising the anti-slip elastomer fiber.
  • the composite yarn comprises a sheath of at least one hard fiber and a core comprising the anti-slip fiber.
  • Another aspect of the present invention relates to articles of manufacture comprising an elastomeric fiber with improved seam-slippage performance or a composite yarn or fabric comprising the elastomeric fiber.
  • the article of manufacture is a garment.
  • Yet another aspect of the present invention relates to methods for making elastomeric fiber, composite yarn, fabric and articles of manufacture with improved elastane slippage resistance. In these methods, a polymeric additive with a glass transition below 100oC is added to the elastomer fiber. In one nonlimiting embodiment, the elastomer is spandex.
  • the polymeric additive is a polyurethane comprising bis(4-isocyanatocyclohexyl) methane and N-alkyldiethanolamine or a derivative thereof.
  • the polymeric additive is a long side chain copolymer comprising a reaction product of polystyrene and maleic anhydride.
  • FIGs.4A and 4B are chemical structures of nonlimiting embodiments of polymeric additives for use in the present invention.
  • the structure of FIG.4A is a polyurethane comprising bis(4-isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane and N-alkyldiethanolamine, wherein R represents–CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -C(CH 3 ) 3 3 or other alkyl groups with 18 carbons or less.
  • R1 represents NH or O group
  • R2 represents alkyl or alkenyl, linear or branched C4-C22 group
  • M represents a monomer which can copolymerize with maleic anhydride including, but not limited to, styrene, substituted styrene, ethylene, vinyl acetate, propene, butadiene, octadecene, acrylamide, acrylonitrile, acrylates, methacrylates, vinyl chloride
  • FIG.5 is a schematic description of a core spinning apparatus.
  • FIG.6 is a differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) curve of an additive PSC18.
  • FIG.7 is a DSC curve of an additive 2PSC18.
  • the present invention relates to elastomeric fibers and composite yarns, fabrics and articles of manufacture comprising elastomeric fiber exhibiting improved elastane slippage resistance, easy stretch, easy processing, low shrinkage, facile garment making, excellent recovery power and low growth.
  • the present invention relates to anti-slip elastomer fiber comprising an elastomer and a polymeric additive with glass transition temperature below 100oC.
  • the invention also relates to elastic composite yarns which comprise the anti-slip elastomeric fiber.
  • the invention is related to the stretch woven fabrics comprising such elastic composite yarns as well.
  • the fabrics are substantially free of elastane slippage and have a desirable combination of stretch, a soft hand, excellent comfort when worn, dimensional stability, and natural fiber look and feel.
  • the invention also relates to a process for making such fiber, yarn and fabrics, as well as garments comprising the fabric of the invention.
  • the term “seam slippage” or “elastane slippage” refers to when an elastomer fiber such as, but not limited to spandex, does not stay anchored and slips back in the cut end of the yarn in seam area. Thus, at one end of the yarn, there is no longer any elastane fiber as it has retracted axially inside of the yarn bundle and fabric.
  • the term “anti-slip” when used in reference to a fiber refers the elastane of the fiber exhibiting resistance to any slip-back from the cut edge of the yarn in seam area.
  • rigid or hard refers to a fiber or yarn which is substantially non-elastic.
  • rigid or hard fiber include, but are not limited to, polyester, cotton, nylon, rayon and wool and any combinations thereof.
  • Elastomeric or elastomer fibers are used interchangeably herein.
  • An elastomer is a polymer with rubber-like elasticity. The term covers a wide range of materials.
  • Elastomeric is an adjective for an elastomer.
  • Elastomeric or elastomer fibers comprise an elastomer polymer. These fibers are commonly used by those skilled in the art to provide stretch and elastic recovery in fabrics and garments.
  • “Elastomeric” or “elastomer” fibers are either a continuous filament (optionally a coalesced multifilament) or a plurality of filaments, free of diluents, which have a break elongation in excess of 100% independent of any crimp.
  • An elastomeric fiber when (1) stretched to twice its length; (2) held for one minute; and (3) released, retracts to less than 1.5 times its original length within one minute of being released.
  • “elastomeric fiber” or “elastomer fiber” means at least one elastomeric fiber or filament.
  • Such elastomeric fibers include, but are not limited to rubber filament, biconstituent filament (which may be based on rubber, polyurethane, etc.), lastol, and spandex.
  • “Spandex” is a manufactured fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long chain synthetic polymer comprised of at least 85% by weight of segmented polyurethane. Since spandex fibers are based on segmented polyurethane elastomers, spandex fiber is a sub-category of the elastomeric fibers.
  • a “composite yarn” is one comprising both elastic fiber surrounded by, twisted with, or intermingled with rigid fiber.
  • the rigid fiber serves to protect the elastic fibers from abrasion during textile processes. Such abrasion can result in breaks in the elastic fiber with consequential process interruptions and undesired fabric non-uniformities.
  • the covering helps to stabilize the elastic fiber elastic behavior, so that the elongation of composite yarn can be more uniformly controlled during textile processes than would be possible with bare elastic fibers.
  • the composite yarn also can increase the tensile modulus of the yarn and fabric, which is helpful to improve the fabric recovery power and dimensional stabilities.
  • FIGs.3(A)-3(E) Multiple nonlimiting examples of composite yarns are shown in FIGs.3(A)-3(E), including FIG.3(A) continuously covering (i.e., core spinning) an anti-slip spandex with staple fibers, followed by twisting during winding; FIG.3(B) intermingling and entangling anti-slip spandex and hard yarns with an air jet; FIG.3(C) single wrapping of the anti-slip spandex with a hard yarn; FIG.3(D) double wrapping of the anti-slip spandex with a hard yarn; and FIG.3(E) twisting anti-slip spandex and hard yarns together.
  • a composite yarn is a “core spun yarn” (CSY), which consists of a separable core surrounded by a spun fiber sheath.
  • CSY core spun yarn
  • the core comprises an anti-slip spandex and is covered by staple cotton fibers.
  • the term "fabric” refers to a knitted or woven material.
  • the knitted fabric may be flat knit, circular knit, warp knit, narrow elastic, and lace.
  • the woven fabric may be of any construction, for example sateen, twill, plain weave, oxford weave, basket weave, and narrow elastic and the like.
  • one aspect of this invention relates to an anti-slip elastomeric fiber comprising an elastomer and an effective amount of a polymeric additive with glass transition temperature below 100oC.
  • the amount of the polymeric additive with glass transition temperature below 100oC effective in producing an anti-slip fiber can vary over a fairly broad range.
  • Bifunctional aliphatic isocyanates are preferred in order to maximize efficacy of the additive by way of enhanced phase separability from the polymer, a family which includes bis(4-isocyanato-cyclohexyl)methane and 1,6-diisocyanatohexane.
  • glycols examples include Terathane® glycols (INVISTA of Wichita, Kansas, USA), PTG-L glycols (Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd., Tokyo, Japan), ETERNACOLL® diols (Ube Industries, Ltd., Tokyo, Japan) and STEPANPOL® polyols (Stepan, Illinois, USA).
  • an effective polymeric additive is a polyurethane comprising bis(4-isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane and N-alkyldiethanolamine or a derivative thereof.
  • R represents a –CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 3 , - CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 , -C(CH 3 ) 3 or other alkyl groups with 18 carbons or less.
  • This type of additive has adhesive functions. It is a polymeric basic amine with tertiary amine repeat units along the polymer chains, which can be used as an acid dye assist agent. It also provides some benefits in whiteness retention, when used at very high levels. It can provide substantial benefit in acid dyeability plus improvements in performance following fume gas and NOx emissions.
  • This polymer additive is prepared by reacting amine or alcohol with a copolymer containing maleic anhydride. This chemical allows the elastomer to which it is added to be tackier and sticky.
  • the additive contains -COOH, long alkyl or alkenyl, linear or branched side chain and exhibits a softening temperature below 75oC, which may result in interaction with cotton and increase friction with staple fibers.
  • spandex was used as the elastomer by the inventors herein, as will be understood by the skilled artisan, other elastomeric polymers with rubber-like elasticity can be routinely used in the fiber as well as yarn, fabric and articles of manufactures comprising and are included with the scope of the present invention.
  • the anti-slip elastomeric fibers of the invention may also comprise one or more additional additives with a different purposes including, but not limited to, delustrants, additional antioxidants, dyes, dye enhancers, UV stabilizers, pigments and other function-enhancing materials.
  • additional additives with a different purposes including, but not limited to, delustrants, additional antioxidants, dyes, dye enhancers, UV stabilizers, pigments and other function-enhancing materials.
  • the anti-slip elastomeric fiber is used in an elastic composite yarn comprising the anti-slip elastomeric fiber covered with sheath hard fibers. Nonlimiting examples of such composite yarns are depicted in in FIGs 3(A)-3(E).
  • An anti-slip spandex is surrounded by, twisted with, or intermingled with at least one hard fiber or yarn.
  • the composite yarn that comprises anti-slip elastomeric fiber and hard yarn is also termed a “covered yarn” in the text of this specification.
  • the hard yarn sheath covers the synthetic luster, glare, and bright appearance of elastomeric fibers of spandex.
  • the hard yarn covering also serves to protect the elastomer from abrasion during the weaving processes which can result in break in the elastomeric fiber with consequential process interruptions and undesired fabric non-uniformities.
  • the anti- slip fiber from tube 48 is unwound in the direction of arrow 50 by the action of positively- driven feed rollers 46.
  • the feed rollers 46 serve as a cradle for the tube 48 and deliver the anti-slip fiber 52 at a pre-determined speed.
  • the hard fiber or yarn 44 is unwound from tube 54 to meet the anti-slip fiber 52 at the set of front rollers 42.
  • the combined anti-slip fiber 52 and hard fiber 44 are core spun together at spinning device 56.
  • the anti-slip fiber 52 is stretched (drafted) before it enters the front rollers 42.
  • the anti-slip fiber is stretched through the speed difference between feed rollers 46 and front rollers 42.
  • the linear density of the hard yarn can range from about 5 English cotton count (Ne) to about 60 English cotton count, for example from 6 English cotton count to about 40 English cotton count.
  • the anti-slip fibers of the present invention can also be used in core spun yarn with two core filaments, core filament I and core filament II.
  • core filament I is anti-slip elastomeric fiber, preferably anti-slip spandex and core II is control filament.
  • core filament II is covered by rigid staples fibers on the surface as a sheath.
  • the control filament of core filament II is textured polyester, nylon, rayon filament, PPT filament, bi-component fiber, or PBT stretch fiber.
  • entangling refers to a process and product in which a jet or jets of air are directed against the yarn or yarns, usually at a 90° angle to the yarn path.
  • a jet or jets of air are directed against the yarn or yarns, usually at a 90° angle to the yarn path.
  • the speed or tension on the yarn is substantially the same at the entrance and exit of the intermingle and the resultant product has a high degree of intermingling or entangling of the filaments with anti-slip spandex.
  • anti-slip fiber is fed to an intermingling jet together with covering rigid filament.
  • the covered yarn is single covered yarn, also called single wrapping, where anti-slip fiber is wrapped with a rigid hard filament fiber such as depicted in FIG.3(C).
  • the anti- slip fiber is precisely elongated through a hollow spindle, covered by the rigid covering yarn, and wound on cross wound bobbins. The anti-slip fiber is only covered in one direction, either S-turn or Z-turn. These single covered yarns have a tendency to twist which can complicate further processing.
  • the composite yarn is a twisted covered yarn.
  • the spun yarns are first twisted or plied together from staple fibers. Then, anti-slip fiber is added and twisted together.
  • Nonlimiting examples of these types of yarns include two-for-one twisted yarns and Hamel twisted yarns.
  • the anti-slip fiber is assembled with a rigid spun yarn on a high-speed assembly winder. The subsequent twisting is performed on two-for-one twisting frames.
  • the anti-slip fiber is well-covered in twists.
  • Elastic two-for-one composite yarn may also be produced using a bare anti-slip fiber.
  • the covering operation is replaced by an assembling and drafting operation. This is done on an assembly winding machine fitted with feeder rollers to adjust the anti-slip fiber draft. During this operation, the anti-slip fiber is stretched and simultaneously assembled with the rigid fiber components. The twisting of this yarn is performed on two-for-one frames.
  • the covered yarn is a hollow spindle twisted composite yarn (Hamel yarn), wherein, anti-slip fiber is covered by a spun yarn or filament.
  • the anti-slip fiber is led through the hollow spindle, as shown in FIG. 3(E).
  • the hard yarn is wound on a pre-twisted flanged bobbin (HD bobbin) that is subsequently put into the tube spindle.
  • HD bobbin rotates with the spindle which is fitted with a cover which hermetically seals the bobbin interior in order to avoid dirt depositions.
  • the anti-slip spandex remains free from twists and is completely covered by the hard fiber yarn.
  • the covered yarn is a Siro-spun® composite yarn.
  • two separate roving yarns are fed to the drafting system of a spinning frame.
  • the anti-slip fiber is guided between the two rovings. These component yarns are combined after the last cylinder of the draft field and scrambled by a certain twist. Within the Siro-spun technique, it is possible to produce a yarn with twist characteristics in one step. Thus, the technique results in a double covered yarn consisting of individual twisted threads.
  • the anti-slip fiber is combined with the two roving via a second feed roller whereby the anti-slip fiber has a defined draft.
  • the Siro-spun yarn can be optionally steamed optionally, and wound on tubes with the help of auto cones. As compared with core spun yarn, Siro-spun yarn have better covering and good hand feel.
  • Stretch woven fabric comprising the anti-slip fiber the invention can be made by the following process.
  • anti-slip fiber is combined with the hard fibers, such as filament or staple roving yarn, i.e. cotton, wool, linen, polyester, nylon, and rayon or a combination of these, to make an anti-slip fiber composite yarn.
  • the anti-slip fiber is drafted from about 1.01 ⁇ to about 5.0 ⁇ of its original length during formation of the composite yarn with anti- slip fiber core.
  • the composite yarn is then woven with at least one staple spun yarn or filament to form a fabric, which is then dyed and finished by piece dyeing or continuous dyeing methods.
  • the anti-slip fiber composite yarn may be used in either warp or weft direction to produce warp or weft stretch fabric.
  • the available fabric stretch (elongation) in the direction of the core spun yarn can be at least about 10% and no more than about 110%. This range of available fabric stretch provides sufficient comfort to the wearer while avoiding poor fabric appearance and too much fabric growth.
  • the anti-slip fiber composite yarn may also be used in both the warp and weft direction of a fabric to obtain a bi-stretch fabric, one which has stretch in both the warp and the weft directions. In this case, the available fabric stretch can be at least about 10% and no more than about 110% in each direction.
  • spun staple fibers and filaments may be used in the weft direction.
  • a variety of different fibers and yarns may be used with the fabrics and garments of some embodiments. These include cotton, wool, acrylic, polyamide (nylon), polyester, spandex, regenerated cellulose, rubber (natural or synthetic), bamboo, silk, soy or combinations thereof.
  • a filament of yarn having stretch-and-recovery properties for example spandex, polyester bicomponent fibers, and the like
  • may be used in the other direction for example in the warp direction.
  • the fabric can have warp stretch as well as weft-stretch characteristics.
  • the woven fabric of the invention can be a plain woven, twill, weft rib, or satin fabric.
  • twill fabric include 2/1, 3/1, 2/2, 1/2, 1/3, herringbone, and pointed twills.
  • Examples of weft rib fabrics include 2/3 and 2/2 weft ribs.
  • the fabric of the invention is suitable for use in various garments for which stretch is desirable, such as pants, jeans, shirts, and sportswear.
  • Fabric Load and Unload Force [00074] Elongation and tenacity properties were measured on fabrics using a dynamic tensile tester Instron. The sample size was 1 x 3 inches (1.5 cm x 7.6 cm) measured along the long dimension. The sample was placed in clamps and extended at a strain rate of 200% elongation per minute until a maximum elongation was reached. The denim samples are extended from 0 to 30% elongation for three cycles. The load forces and unload forces at 12% or 30% extension were measured after the third cycle.
  • the fabric samples are washed and dried in following conditions: Wash machine: similar to a Tupesa TSP-15, 1 vertical machine with a single 75 cm diameter compartment; Bath temperature: 98°C; Process time: 90 munities; Liquor ratio: 1/8; Machine speed: 25-28rp; PH:10; Salt:20 gr/1; Drying temperature: 90 0 C. [00078] After finishing washing and tumble drying, the specimens are conditioned for at least 16 hours by laying each specimen as a single layer. The sample is lightly steam ironed in order to facilitate measuring. [00079] The elastic fiber seam slippage is measured as follows: along both sides of the specimen warp and/or weft direction, two spots are selected and marked.
  • Example 1 Preparation of an additive from polyurethane comprising bis(4- isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane and N-alkyldiethanolamine
  • a polyurethane additive was prepared by reacting bis(4- isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane with N-alkyldiethanolamine. See FIG.4A.
  • N-tert-butyldiethanolamine (1600.0g) and bis(4-isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane (2290.0g, Desmodur® W from Covestro) was added into 3287.0g dimethylacetamide (DMAC).
  • DMAC dimethylacetamide
  • the solution was heated to 70°C-120°C for 4-12 hours before cooling to room temperature.
  • DMAc with 0.1% LiCl was used as eluent for GPC at 60°C and a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min.
  • Example 3 Preparation of an additive from polyurethane comprising bis(4- isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane and a diol
  • Polyurethane additives were prepared by reacting bis(4- isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane with 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol.
  • An example for MPD-105 Bis(4-isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane (150.8g), 2- methyl-1,3-propanediol (60.0g), K-KAT XK640 (0.04g, King Industries, Inc.), and DMAC (370.0g) were added into a reaction kettle.
  • Example 4 Preparation of long side chain copolymer [00089] A long side chain copolymer was prepared by reacting alkyl or alkenyl, linear or branched amine or alcohol with anhydride group in poly (M-co-maleic anhydride) copolymer. See FIG.4B. In a typical experiment, poly(M-co-maleic anhydride) was dissolved in dimethylacetamide (DMAC) solution, which was followed by adding alcohol or amine. The mixture was heated to 50-120°C for 1-10 hours. The reaction was fully converted by the disappearance of 1854 cm -1 and 1772 cm -1 peaks from FT-IR (vibration of anhydride group).
  • DMAC dimethylacetamide
  • a poly(styrene-co-maleic anhydride) is commercially available as XIRAN® from Polyscope company.
  • a stearamine is commercially available as Armeen 18D from Nouryon company.41.70g poly(styrene-co-maleic anhydride) (XIRAN® 1000, 474 mg/KOH acid value) was added into 250.0g dimethylacetamide (DMAC) in a reaction kettle. After the solid was dissolved, 44.10g stearamine (Armeen 18D) was added into the solution and heated to 85°C for 4 hours. The long side chain copolymer PS-C18 solution was formed by cooling to room temperature. The polymer was recovered by removing DMAC solvent under vacuum.
  • the glass transition temperature (Tg) of PS-C18 polymer was 55.85°C, as measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) (FIG.6).
  • the 2PS-C18 polymer was prepared similarly by reacting XIRAN® 2000 (370 mg/KOH acid value) with Armeen 18D.
  • the Tg of 2PS-C18 was 41.37°C, as measured by DSC (FIG.7).
  • Example 5 Fiber Spinning Process
  • the concentration of the isocyanate terminal groups in the formed prepolymer was at 2.60% by weight of the prepolymer.
  • This prepolymer was mixed with and dissolved into N,N-dimethylacetamide (DMAc) to give a solution with about 45% solids by weight, and then further reacted with a DMAc solution containing a mixture of ethylenediamine (EDA) and 2-methylpentanediamine with a molar ratio of 90 to 10 and diethylamine (DEA) to form a viscous poly(urethane urea) solution with 35% polymer solids.
  • DMAc N,N-dimethylacetamide
  • This polymer solution was mixed with additives in a slurry form, at a level producing approximately 1.35% of LOWINOX® GP45 antioxidant, 0.54% silicone-oil based spinning aid, 1.50% huntite/hydromagnesite, and 0.17% titanium oxide powder based on the total weight of the solids.
  • the resulting polymer solution including the mixed additives was spun into a 44 dtex 5 filament spandex fiber using a dry-spinning process at a wound-up speed of 869 meters per minute.
  • various levels of polyurethane-based anti-slip additive are blended into the polymer in slurry form. All examples are spun under similar conditions in terms of decitex (44dtex) and spinning speed.
  • Example 6 Elastic Composite Yarn and Fabric Making
  • 100 % cotton open end spun yarn or ring spun was used as warp yarn.
  • Denim fabrics included two count yarns: 7.0 Ne OE yarn and 8.5 Ne OE yarn with irregular arrangement pattern. The yarns were indigo dyed in rope form before beaming. Then, they were sized and wound onto the weaving beam.
  • Several composite yarns with elastic fibers and low-melt fibers were used as weft yarn, including core spun, air jet covering, and dual core spun. Table 1 lists the materials and processes that were used to make the composite yarns for each example. Lycra® spandex are available from The LYCRA Company, Wilmington, Delaware.
  • Example A 44dtex Anti-slip spandex fibers and core spun yarns [00098]
  • Example A includes a group of spandex fibers and cotton core spun yarn and fabrics. The spandex fibers are made various finishes, ingredients and with or without anti- slip polymeric additives.
  • Sample 1 is a Comparative Example as no anti-slip polymeric additive is added.
  • the fabric has very high seam slippage, 28.7 mm. Such fabric has high risk for producing a defective garment related to slippage after laundering.
  • the fabric load force at 30% elongation is 1616.6 grams and unload force (recovery force) at 12% elongation is 156.2 grams.
  • the fabric anti-slippage length is 11.7 mm.
  • the fabric load force at 30% elongation is 1880 grams and the unload force (recovery force) at 12% elongation is 191.5 grams.
  • this fabric of Sample 5 continues to provide comfort and move freedom while maintaining excellent recovery.
  • Sample 6 which is 44 dtex anti-slippage spandex with 3 filaments also has a very low slippage level after adding anti-slip polymeric additive.
  • the slippage length is 12.2 mm, which is similar to 44 dtex spandex with 5 filament fiber (Sample 5).
  • the fabric load force at 30% elongation is 1686.2 grams and unload force (recovery force) at 12% elongation is 145.2 grams.
  • Sample 7 utilizes an anti-slip additive based on bis(4-isocyanatohexyl)methane with N-methyldiethanolamine, and was spun as a 44 dtex anti-slippage spandex with 5 filaments.
  • the fiber slippage length is 9.4 mm, which is similar to 44 dtex spandex with 5 filament fiber (Sample 5).
  • the fabric load force at 30% elongation is 2377.2 grams and unload force (recovery force) at 12% elongation is 259.1 grams.
  • Sample 8 utilizes an anti-slip additive based on bis(4-isocyanatohexyl)methane with 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol, and was spun as a 44 dtex anti-slippage spandex with 5 filaments.
  • the fiber slippage length is 14.9 mm, which also yields improved performance relative to the control (Sample 1).
  • the fabric load force at 30% elongation is 2398.0 grams and unload force (recovery force) at 12% elongation is 250.0 grams.
  • Example B 78dtex Anti-slip spandex fibers and core spun yarns
  • Example B include two types of anti-slip 77 dtex spandex fiber and cotton core spun yarn and fabrics.
  • the spandex fibers have 5 filaments.
  • the spandex in Sample 7 is a Comparative Example of spandex without anti- slip additive.
  • the fabric made from this fiber has very high seam slippage, 20.2 mm, as shown in Table 1.
  • the fabric load force at 30% elongation is 1639.5 grams and unload force (recovery force) at 12% elongation is 232.1 grams.
  • 2% anti-slip polymeric additive of bis(4- isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane with N-alkyldiethanolamine was added to the spandex during fiber making.
  • the fabric seam slippage length reduced to 13.5 mm, which indicates the fabric has low risk for producing defective garments related to spandex slippage after garment wash.
  • Example C Anti-slip spandex fibers with long side chain additive
  • Example C includes three spandex fibers and cotton core spun yarns and fabrics. The spandex fibers are made with or without anti-slip polymeric additives. The long side chain polymer is used as the anti-slip polymeric additive.14s cotton core spun yarns with these spandex fibers were made under draft 3.5X.1/3 twill denim fabrics were woven with 40 picks per inch and finished.
  • Sample 9 is a Comparative Example of 50 dtex spandex with no anti-slip polymeric additive added.
  • the fabric has a high seam slippage of 20.4 mm. This fabric has a high risk for producing defective garments related to slippage after laundering.
  • Sample 10 2% of the anti-slip polymeric additive PS-C18 was added during the fiber spinning process. The fabric slippage reduced to 17.1 mm (see Table1).
  • Sample 11 2% of another type anti-slip polymeric additive, 2PS-C18, was added into the fiber. The fabric slippage length reduced even lower in this Sample to 15.4 mm.
  • Example D Two Step covered composite yarns
  • Example D includes four pieces of core spun composite yarns and fabrics comprising double filaments as core and covered by cotton staple fiber as sheath.
  • the composite yarn is made with three types of yarns: a first type 1 of sheath fiber, a second type 2 of spandex fiber, and a third type yarn 3 of anchor filament, wherein, the elastic fiber and anchor fiber adhere together in discontinuous bonding knots.
  • the yarns are made through a two-step process.
  • the spandex fiber and anchor filament are interlaced together through an air jet covering process. After the air covering process, spandex fiber and anchor filament form the pre-bounded composite core.
  • the pre-bounded composite core is covered by cotton on the yarn surface in a core spun machine.
  • the sheath fiber cotton covers the yarn surface to provide authentic appearance and soft touch.
  • the pre- bonded composite core can provide a bonding force to help preventing the spandex slippage during garment making, garment wet process and home laundry.
  • Sample 12 is a Comparative Example wherein the spandex fiber is 44/5 dtex without anti-slip polymeric additive.
  • the anchor filament is 75d/144f polyester textured filament. These two filaments are pre-bonded together at an air jet covering machine. Then this pre-bonded filament is covered by cotton in core spun yarn to form 14S cotton core spun yarn. Finally, this core spun is woven into denim fabric with 40 picks per inch.
  • Sample 13 has the same yarn and fabric structure as Sample 12. The only difference is the spandex contains 2% of anti-slip polymeric additive of bis(4- isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane with N-alkyldiethanolamine. As shown in Table 1, the fabric slippage is 4.5 mm.
  • Sample 14 is also a Comparative Example having the same spandex fiber, yarn structure and fabric structure as Sample 12. The only difference is the anchor filament: 75D/34f polyester bi-component LYCRA® T400® Fiber made by The LYCRA® Company. The fabric slippage is 4.9 mm.
  • Sample 15 has the sample yarn and fabric structure as Sample 14.
  • Sample 16 is a Comparative Example with 44/5 dtex spandex fiber without any anti-slip polymeric additive.
  • the anchor filament is 75d/144f polyester textured filament. These two filaments are directly fed into the core spun yarn machine and covered by cotton to form 14S cotton core spun yarn. This yarn is then woven into denim fabric with 40 picks per inch. The slippage of this fabric is 20.8 mm.
  • Sample 17 has the sample yarn and fabric structure as Sample 16. The only difference is the spandex contains 2% of anti-slip polymeric additive bis(4- isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane with N-alkyldiethanolamine. As shown in Table 1, the fabric slippage is 8.5 mm.
  • Sample 18 is a Comparative Example having the same spandex fiber, yarn structure and fabric structure as Sample 16. The only difference is the anchor filament: 75D/34f polyester bi-component LYCRA® T400® Fiber made by The LYCRA® Company. The fabric slippage is 8.0 mm.
  • Sample 19 has the sample yarn and fabric structure as Sample 18. The only difference is the spandex contains 2% of anti-slip polymeric additive of bis(4- isocyanatocyclohexyl)methane with N-alkyldiethanolamine. As shown in Table 1, the fabric slippage is 5.9 mm.
  • Example F Air Jet covered composite yarns [000125] Example F includes two pieces of air covered composite yarns and the fabrics.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
  • General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une fibre élastique présentant une meilleure performance de résistance au glissement de la couture. L'invention concerne également un fil composite élastique, des tissus et des articles de fabrication comprenant la fibre élastique et des procédés de production de fibres d'élasthanne, de fils composites, de tissus et d'articles de fabrication ayant une résistance au glissement d'élasthanne améliorée.
EP21718264.1A 2020-03-11 2021-03-10 Fibre élastique, fils composites et tissus à performance anti-glissement Pending EP4118261A1 (fr)

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WO2024015553A1 (fr) * 2022-07-14 2024-01-18 Yulex Llc Filaments fins de caoutchouc comprenant du caoutchouc naturel et leurs procédés de fabrication

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TW202200861A (zh) 2022-01-01
WO2021183609A1 (fr) 2021-09-16
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KR20220146651A (ko) 2022-11-01
JP2023517945A (ja) 2023-04-27
CN115552061A (zh) 2022-12-30
BR112022017945A2 (pt) 2022-11-29

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