EP4096617A1

EP4096617A1 - Two-phase composition for makeup removal and/or cleansing

Info

Publication number: EP4096617A1
Application number: EP21706643.0A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Marie RENOUARD; Camille ROPION; Corinne GAREAUD
Original assignee: Laboratoires de Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher SA
Current assignee: Laboratoires de Biologie Vegetale Yves Rocher SA
Priority date: 2020-01-30
Filing date: 2021-01-29
Publication date: 2022-12-07
Also published as: FR3106752B1; WO2021152265A1; FR3106752A1

Abstract

The invention pertains to the field of skin, eye and/or lip makeup, more particularly to the field of compositions for makeup removal and/or cleansing (face and body). The present invention relates to a two-phase composition for makeup removal and cleansing (face and body), the use thereof for removing makeup from the skin, eyes and/or lips and the use thereof for cleansing the face and/or body, and the method for producing said composition. Hence, one aspect of the present invention is a two-phase composition for makeup removal and/or cleansing, comprising: - between 5 and 50% by mass of an oily phase, calculated in relation to the total mass of the composition, and - between 50 and 95% by mass of an aqueous phase, calculated in relation to the total mass of the composition, characterised in that the oily phase comprises one or more naturally occurring, non-petrochemical alkane oil(s).

Description

TWO-PHASE MAKE-UP REMOVER AND / OR COMPOSITION

CLEANING

[1] The invention belongs to the field of make-up for the skin, eyes and / or lips, more particularly to that of make-up removing and / or cleansing compositions (face and body).

[2] The present invention relates to a composition with two make-up removing and cleansing phases (face and body), its use for removing make-up from the skin, eyes and / or lips, its use for cleaning the face and / or body. , as well as its manufacturing process.

[3] Make-up removing and / or cleansing compositions comprising two phases are known. These can also be called “two-phase”, “two-phase” or “dual phases” in English. These compositions have the advantage of having an effective make-up removing and / or cleansing power associated with a satisfactory sensoriality (non-greasy) generally superior to the compositions conventionally used. The two-phase makeup remover compositions have become in a few years an essential product used by millions of consumers. These products have the particularity of completely removing make-up, in particular that of the eyelashes and eyelids, while respecting the fragile areas, in particular those around the eye area. These products also have a soft and fresh texture having a soothing effect, necessary in particular for removing make-up from sensitive eyes. Two-phase cleansing compositions have also become a must-have product.

[4] Compositions with two makeup and / or cleansing phases also have the advantage of not requiring rinsing.

[5] The Applicant has in the past developed several makeup-removing two-phase compositions. This composition makes it possible to effectively remove make-up from the skin, eyes and / or lips while limiting irritation and does not require rinsing.

[6] The plaintiff is the creator of Plant-based Cosmetics and has been promoting natural cosmetics since 1959. Its research into raw materials and its expertise in formulation pushes it to innovate to create ever more natural formulas to satisfy consumers and create scientific value. In order to limit its impact on the environment, the applicant is carrying out an innovation process to substitute ingredients derived from non-renewable and not easily biodegradable resources. This represents a major challenge in certain cosmetic categories, because it is imperative to simultaneously guarantee the safety, efficacy and sensoriality of products to consumers.

[7] There is therefore a need to provide a new composition with two makeup and / or cleansing phases, the composition of which accords with new regulations and industry trends, in particular a composition which corresponds more closely to the values of the applicant.

[8] There is thus a need for a composition, composed of products of natural origin, silicone-free and mineral oil-free having properties at least equivalent to make-up removing and / or cleansing compositions comprising two existing phases comprising silicones and mineral oils. .

[9] However, it is difficult to do without silicone oils and / or mineral oils in a two-phase makeup remover and / or cleansing composition because this usually leads to problems in terms of texture, separation of the two phases. , when the densities are close, and the resulting haze at the interface. The products thus deprived of these silicone oils and / or mineral oils can also leave a greasy sensation on the hands after use, may require rinsing or even lose effectiveness.

[10] It is to the Applicant's merit that they have developed a new two-phase makeup remover and / or cleansing composition which solves these problems and drawbacks of the prior art. The composition according to the invention has the particular advantage of:

- have good tolerance for the eyes,

- to use only raw materials authorized on the lips and eyes without loss of effectiveness,

- have a high efficiency, a dry and non-greasy finish despite the removal of synthetic volatile raw materials (such as isododecane, cyclopentasiloxane), - have a fatty phase with a flash point greater than or equal to 60 ° C? compliant with regulations,

- to offer a composition based on products of natural origin.

[1 1] Thus, an object of the present invention is a composition with two makeup removing and / or cleansing phases comprising:

- from 5 to 50%, preferably 20 to 45% and more preferably from 30 to 40%, by mass of the oily phase, calculated with respect to the total mass of the composition, and

- from 50 to 95%, preferably 55 to 80% and more preferably from 60 to 70%, by mass of aqueous phase, calculated relative to the total mass of the composition, characterized in that the oily phase comprises one or more several alkane oil (s) of natural origin, not petrochemical.

[12] Advantageously, the oily phase comprises an alkane or a mixture of C9 to C12 alkanes, an alkane or a mixture of C13 to 15 alkanes and a volatile hydrocarbon oil. Preferably, the oily phase comprises a C9-12 alkane, a C13-15 alkane and a volatile hydrocarbon oil, said volatile hydrocarbon oil being preferably chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 with 16 carbon atoms, such as undecane, tridecane and their mixtures, undecane-tridecane mixtures.

[13] In the context of the invention, the term "two-phase" composition or

"Two-phase", a composition comprising a fatty or oily phase, comprising oils and an aqueous phase where the two phases are optically separated at zero shear rate and become homogeneous by stirring and return again to two separate phases after stopping agitation. Agitation can be manual agitation performed by a subject.

[14] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises two optically separated phases which become homogeneous after stirring and return to two optically separated phases after stopping the stirring. The composition according to the invention returns to two optically separated phases upon stopping the agitation, preferably in less than 48 hours, preferably in less than 24 hours and, preferably, in 12 to 24 hours. The return times to two optically separated phases when stopping the above agitation relates to the complete separation of the two phases, that is to say the return to their initial (clear) state of the composition. Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the oily and aqueous phases separated are identifiable and recognizable less than 30 minutes after stopping agitation, preferably 10 to 30 minutes after stopping agitation, more preferably less than 5 minutes after stopping the agitation.

[15] The term "makeup remover" composition means a composition which, when applied to the skin, eyes and / or lips, makes it possible to cleanse and remove all or part of the makeup. There are different types of makeup removing compositions such as lotions, tonics, milks, balms or butters. A so-called tonic composition can contribute to removing make-up removing composition and traces of facial make-up from the skin, eyes and / or lips. Generally, the make-up removing compositions are cosmetic products intended to remove impurities, dead cells, sweat, sebum and make-up from the skin, eyes and / or lips. These compositions usually do not have the power to penetrate the skin. Also, the makeup removing compositions should not have detergent power and should respect the pH of the subject's skin. Apart from tonics, which are composed of water and surfactants, makeup removing compositions mostly include lipids which more easily remove makeup, which is soluble in said lipids. Among the makeup-removing compositions, there are two-phase or two-phase compositions, which are distinguished from emulsions (i.e. creams, milk), in particular by the fact that the two phases are optically separated when the composition is at rest. It is easy for the subject to homogenize the composition by simple manual shaking. Finally, when the composition is stored, the two phases separate again. This type of composition has many advantages over a conventional cleansing emulsion. Two-phase compositions are more effective than a milk or lotion / tonic because they contain a greater amount of fatty phase and are easier to use than a butter or a rinse-out balm.

[16] Advantageously, the composition comprises from 50 to 95%, preferably 55 to 80% and more preferably from 60 to 70%, by mass of the aqueous phase, calculated on the basis of to the total mass of the composition. The aqueous phase can comprise from 70 to 100% water, relative to the total mass of the aqueous phase.

[17] Advantageously, the composition comprises from 5 to 50%, preferably 20 to 45% and even more preferably from 30 to 40%, by mass of oily phase (which can also be called fatty phase), calculated with respect to the total mass of the composition. The oily phase comprises one or more alkane oil (s) of natural origin, non-petrochemical, preferably a C9-12 alkane, a C13-15 alkane and a volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[18] “Product of natural origin” means a product falling within the definition given by standard ISO 16128: ingredients derived from natural materials are cosmetic ingredients, for a proportion of more than 50% of natural origin. , by their molecular mass, according to their renewable carbon content, or by any other appropriate method, which are obtained by defined chemical and / or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying them. It can be a chemical compound or a chemical substance produced by a living organism, that is, found in nature. In the context of the invention, products of natural origin are considered to be products derived from plants or from the hydrogenation of oils of natural origin, preferably plant oils.

[19] The term “alkane oil of natural, non-petrochemical origin” means an alkane or mixture of several alkanes, C8 to C19, preferably C8 to C16 or C9 to C15, of natural origin, preferably vegetable. and which is or is not derived from a petroleum derivative. It may preferably be an alkane or mixture of C9 to 12 alkanes (for example C9-C12 alkane), of an alkane or mixture of C13-15 alkanes (for example

C13-alkane) and a volatile hydrocarbon oil (eg undecane-tridecane).

[20] The term “alkane or mixture of C9 to C12 alkanes” means an oil comprising one or more alkanes of natural origin, the chains of which comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms. It can be a C9-C12 alkane. The term “C9-12 alkane” (INCI name, also known under the brand name VEGELIGHT SILK® sold by the company BioSynthis, of CAS number 68608-12-8) is understood to mean a compound which is a mixture of C9 alkanes. to C12. This oil is a biodegradable and very volatile emollient obtained from from coconut oil. It comes in liquid form, limpid almost odorless. Its viscosity is 0.9-1.1 cSt (40 ° C) and has a flash point at 65 ° C.

[21] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can comprise from 1 to 10% by mass of alkane or of mixture of C9 to C12 alkanes, preferably of C9-12 alkane, calculated relative to the total mass of the oily phase, preferably 4 to 8%.

[22] The term "alkane or mixture of C13 to 05 alkanes" means an oil comprising one or more alkanes of natural origin, the chains of which contain from 13 to 15 carbon atoms. It can be C13-C15 alkane. The term “C13-15 alkane” (INCI name, also known under the brand name NEOSSANCE® Hemisqualane sold by the company Aprinnova, of CAS number 64742-46-7) is understood to mean a compound which is a mixture of C 3 alkanes. to C15. This oil is obtained from sugar cane. It comes in a liquid, clear, almost odorless form. Its viscosity is 2.7 cP (20 ° C) and has a flash point at 110 ° C.

[23] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can comprise from 50 to 89% by mass of alkane or of mixture of C 3 to 05 alkanes, preferably of 03-15 alkane, calculated relative to the total mass of the alkane. oily phase, preferably 50 to 70%.

[24] The term "volatile hydrocarbon oil" means an oil preferably chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably different from the alkane or from the alkane. mixture of C9 to 02 alkanes and alkane or mixture of C05 alkanes (preferably different from C9-12 alkane and from 03-15 alkane). They may in particular be compounds such as undecane, tridecane and their mixtures. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is an "undecane (and) tridecane" mixture (INCI name, also known under the brand name CETIOL ULTIMATE® marketed by the company BASF, number

CAS 1120-21-4 and 629-50-5). It is in the form of a liquid, clear, transparent and practically odorless oil, having a low dynamic viscosity of less than 7 mPa.s. The undecane / tridecane mixture can comprise from 50 to 80% of undecane and from 20 to 50% of tridecane, by mass relative to the total mass of the mixture. undecane / tridecane. This oil of natural origin is obtained from the hydrogenation of lauryque / myristic alcohol.

[25] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can comprise from 10 to 40% by mass of volatile hydrocarbon oil, calculated with respect to the total mass of the oily phase, preferably from 20 to 30%.

[26] Advantageously, the oily phase of the composition according to the invention can further comprise a fourth oil. The fourth oil is different from the alkane or mixture of C9 to C12 alkanes (preferably different from C9-12 alkane), alkane or mixture of C 3 to C15 alkanes (preferably different from C13 -15 alkane) and volatile hydrocarbon oil (preferably different from undecane (and) tridecane). The fourth oil can be an oil, preferably of natural, vegetable origin, chosen from oils, butters and waxes of vegetable origin. The fourth oil is preferably different from the alkane or mixture of C9 to C12 alkanes (preferably different from C9-12 alkane), alkane or mixture of C0 to C15 alkanes (preferably different of 03-15 alkane) and volatile hydrocarbon oil (preferably different from undecane (and) tridecane). The fourth oil is preferably chosen from the group comprising oils, butters and waxes of natural origin, preferably of vegetable origin, such as hydrocarbons, saturated or unsaturated and different from the aforementioned alkanes, fatty acids (C4 to C36 ), fatty alcohols (C4 to C36), fatty acid mono-, di- or tri-glycerides (C4 to C36), fatty alcohol esters (C3 to 36) and fatty acid (in C3 to C36).

[27] Advantageously, the fourth oil can be chosen from the group comprising isopropyl palmitate, isoamyl laurate, hexyl laurate, coconut capryl caprate, isopropyl myristate and mixtures thereof.

[28] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can comprise from 8 to 15% by mass of fourth oil, calculated relative to the total mass of the oily phase, preferably from 10 to 14% or more preferably 12.5. %.

[29] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can also comprise a surfactant. The surfactant can be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric, preferably nonionic. The surfactant can be chosen from the group comprising betaine, capryl / capramidopropyl betaine, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, coco-glucoside, decyl glucoside, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl glycolipylate, glyceryl oleate, 40 glycolipolipyl glucosyl oleate, 40 glycolipyl glucosyl oleate, 407 glycolipyl glucosyl oleate, glycolipolipylate polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate / polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate / polyglyceryl-6 -10 laurate, sodium surfactin (cyclic lipopeptide formed from a peptide of 7 amino acids of D and L conformation linked to a linear or branched b-hydroxylated fatty acid containing 13 to 15 carbon atoms), sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium caproyl prolinate, sorbitan caprylate, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl undecilenate and mixtures thereof.

[30] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.1 to 5% by mass of surfactant, calculated relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably 0.10 to 0.30% or even more preferably. 0.15%.

[31] Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, the aqueous phase may have a pH in the range from 4 to 8, preferably 4.5 or 6.0 or more preferably from 5.2 to 5, 8.

[32] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can further comprise a pH adjuster. The pH adjuster can be selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lactic acid, citric acid, arginine, and tromethamine. Of course, the choice of the pH adjuster (acidic or basic) and the quantity of the latter can easily be adapted by those skilled in the art to obtain the desired pH for the aqueous phase of the composition.

[33] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can also comprise a preservative and / or an antimicrobial agent. Preferably, the preservative and / or antimicrobial agent is in the aqueous phase. The preservative and / or an antimicrobial agent can be one or more compounds chosen from among the preservatives listed in appendix V (Preservatives) of Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 amended by Regulation 2019/698 of April 30, 2019, published in the Journal. official of the European Union on May 7 2019. Preferably, the preservative can be chosen from the group comprising benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid and phenethyl alcohol and their mixtures.

[34] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.01 to 1% by mass of preservative and / or of antimicrobial agent, calculated relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably 0.3 to 0, 7% or more preferably 0.5%.

[35] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise a solvent, preferably in the aqueous phase, preferably chosen from the group comprising 1,2-hexanediol, butylene glycol, caprylhydroxamic acid, capryloyl glycine, caprylyl glycol , decylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin, glycerin, hexylene glycol, methylpropanediol, pentylene glycol, phenyl propanol, propanediol, propylene glycol,, and mixtures thereof.

[36] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.1 to 10% by mass of solvent, calculated relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably from 5 to 8% or more preferably 6.5%. .

[37] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can further comprise an interface and phase shift time adjuster. The term "interface and phase shift time adjuster" is understood to mean a compound which may be an organic or inorganic salt and which improves the separation of the oily and aqueous phases, preferably an alkaline or alkaline-earth cation salt. Preferably, the interface and phase shift time adjuster is in the aqueous phase. The interface and phase shift time adjuster can be a salt selected from the group consisting of calcium chloride, calcium sulfate, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, maris sal (sea salt), potassium citrate, chloride sodium, sodium citrate and mixtures thereof.

[38] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.1 to 10% by mass of interface and phase shift time adjuster, calculated with respect to the total mass of the composition, preferably of 0.5 at 3%.

[39] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can also comprise an active agent, in the oily phase or in the aqueous phase, preferably in the oily phase. It can be, for example, cornflower, calendula or chamomile. [40] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can also comprise a dye (for example a colored plant extract), in the oily phase or in the aqueous phase, preferably in the oily phase.

[41] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can comprise:

- from 50 to 95%, preferably 55 to 80% and more preferably from 60 to 70%, by mass of the aqueous phase, calculated with respect to the total mass of the composition, said oily phase comprising:

* from 1 to 10% by mass of alkane or mixture of C9 to C12 alkanes, preferably C9-12 alkane, calculated relative to the total mass of the oily phase, preferably from 4 to

8%,

* from 50 to 89% by mass of alkane or mixture of C13 to 05 alkanes, preferably 03-15 alkane, calculated relative to the total mass of the oily phase, preferably from 50 to 70%,

* from 10 to 40% by mass of volatile hydrocarbon oil (preferably different from the alkane or mixture of C9 to 02 alkanes and from the alkane or mixture of C 9 to 05 alkanes), calculated with respect to the total mass of the oily phase, preferably from 20 to

30%, preferably chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 19 carbon atoms (preferably different from the alkane or mixture of C9 to 02 alkanes and the alkane or mixture of C 9 to 05 alkanes , preferably different from C9-12 alkane and from 03-15 alkane),

* optionally from 8 to 15% by mass of a fourth oil different from the alkane or mixture of C9 to 02 alkanes, from the alkane or mixture of from 03 to 05 alkanes (preferably different from C9-12 alkane and 03-15 alkane) and volatile hydrocarbon oil, calculated with respect to the total mass of the oily phase, preferably from 10 to 14% or more preferably 12.5%,

* optionally an asset, and

* optionally a dye, said aqueous phase comprising:

* from 70 to 100% water, * optionally from 0.1 to 5% by mass of surfactant, calculated relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably 0.10 to 0.30% or more preferably 0.15%,

* optionally from 0.01 to 1% by mass of preservative and / or of antimicrobial agent, calculated relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably 0.5 to 0.8% or more preferably 0.7% ,

* optionally from 0.1 to 10% by mass of solvent, calculated relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably from 5 to 8% or more preferably 6.5%,

* optionally from 0.1 to 10% by mass of interface adjuster and phase shift time, calculated relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 3%,

* optionally an asset, and

* optionally a dye.

[42] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention can also comprise one or more perfumes, gelling agents (such as, for example xanthan gum, cellulose, konjac or alginate), thickeners (cellulose, starch) or other conventional compounds in make-up removers / cleansers. conventionally used in cosmetics by those skilled in the art, in the aqueous and / or oily phase depending on their solubility.

[43] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is preferably transparent, preferably the oily phase and the aqueous phase are transparent. The term “transparent” composition is understood to mean a composition which allows light to pass through and the objects behind it appear with clarity. The aqueous and oily phases are preferably homogeneous when the composition is at rest. Preferably, the composition does not include particles, preferably no particles visible to the naked eye.

[44] The invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the invention for removing make-up from the skin, eyes and / or lips.

[45] The invention further relates to a use of the composition according to the invention for cleaning the face and / or the body. [46] The invention also encompasses a process for removing make-up from the skin, eyes and / or lips comprising at least one step of applying a two-phase composition according to the invention to the skin, eyes and / or. or the lips.

[47] The invention also encompasses a method for cleansing the face and / or body comprising at least one step of applying a two-phase composition according to the invention to the face and / or body.

[48] The invention also relates to a process for manufacturing a two-phase composition according to the invention comprising the steps:

- preparation of an oily phase H comprising:

* from 1 to 10% by mass of alkane or mixture of C9 to Cl 2 alkanes, preferably C9-12 alkane, calculated relative to the total mass of the oily phase, preferably from 4 to 8%

* from 50 to 89% by mass of alkane or mixture of 03 to C15 alkanes, preferably C13-15 alkane, calculated relative to the total mass of the oily phase, preferably from 50 to 70%

* from 10 to 40% by mass of volatile hydrocarbon oil (preferably different from the alkane or mixture of C9 to C12 alkanes and the alkane or mixture of C03 to C12 alkanes), calculated with respect to the total mass of the oily phase, preferably from 20 to

30%, preferably chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 19 carbon atoms (preferably different from the alkane or mixture of C9 to C12 alkanes and the alkane or mixture of C 3 to C15 alkanes , preferably different from C9-12 alkane and from C13-alkane),

* optionally from 8 to 15% by mass of fourth oil different from the alkane or mixture of C9 to C12 alkanes and of the alkane or mixture of C13 to 05 alkanes (preferably different from C9-12 alkane, C13 - 15 alkane) and volatile hydrocarbon oil, calculated with respect to the total mass of the oily phase, preferably from 10 to 14% or more preferably 12.5%,

* optionally an asset, and

* optionally a dye, by mixing the aforementioned elements, at a temperature ranging from 20 to 30 ° C, preferably 25 ° C, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, - optionally filtration of the oily phase H obtained,

- preparation of an aqueous phase E comprising:

* from 70 to 100% by mass of water calculated relative to the total mass of the aqueous phase,

* optionally from 0.1 to 5% by mass of surfactant, calculated relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably 0.10 to 0.30% or more preferably 0.15%,

* optionally an asset, and

* optionally a colorant by mixing the aforementioned elements, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,

- adjustment of the pH of the aqueous phase, and

- optionally filtration of the oily phase obtained,

- placing in contact from 50 to 95%, preferably 55 to 80% and more preferably from 60 to 70%, by mass of aqueous phase E, calculated with respect to the total mass of the composition and from 5 to 50%, preferably 20 to 45% and more preferably from 30 to 40%, by mass of oily phase H, calculated with respect to the total mass of the composition, and obtaining the two-phase composition.

[49] The invention also relates to a bottle or container comprising a composition according to the invention.

[50] Brief description of the figures:

[51] Figure 1 shows a composition according to the invention (a) after stirring, (b) at rest. [52] FIG. 2 represents a non-conforming composition outside the invention in which the demarcation between the two phases is not clear. The milky (or cloudy) area is indicated by the arrows.

[53] Figure 3 shows the CBM samples of Example 2 prepared, respectively, from left to right, with lipstick, eye shadow, foundation and mascara.

[54] Figure 4 shows a color measurement diagram visualized on the application area of a CBM sample from Example 2: the circles indicate the five adjacent color measurement points.

[55] The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, without limitation.

[56] Example 1: Preparation of compositions according to the invention.

[57] Table 1: compositions of the aqueous and oily phases of compositions 1 and 2.

[58] Table 2 describes the procedures for preparing the aqueous and oily phases of the compositions.

59] From these aqueous and oily phases, the compositions with two make-up removing phases 1 and 2 are prepared.

60] Table 3: Composition 1 (consisting of 40% oily phase and 60% of aqueous phase) and Composition 2 (consisting of 35% of oily phase and 65% of aqueous phase).

[61] According to an identical protocol, compositions 3 to 10 are prepared, the fatty phases of which have the following compositions:

62] Table 4: composition of the oily phases of compositions 3 to 10. The aqueous phases of compositions 3 to 10 are identical to those of compositions 1 and 2. Compositions 3 to 10 consist of 35% fatty phase and 65% of aqueous phase. Compositions 3 and 4 are counter-examples not comprising a volatile hydrocarbon oil. [63] Example 2: Evaluation of the make-up removing properties and of the sensoriality (non-greasy feel) of the composition 1.

[64] The cleansing efficiency and smearing of three two-phase cleansing formulations was compared in an in vitro procedure. A modified tribological test stand served as the testing machine and ensured constant test conditions during the cleaning process. Composition 1 according to the invention showed significantly better cleaning efficiency for three of the four cosmetic products compared to the two commercial references (A and B) and is therefore classified as the best cleaning formulation tested. Composition 1 also exhibits good results in terms of smearing, comparable to those obtained with composition A.

[65] The test was carried out in an air-conditioned room with a relative humidity of 40 +/- 5% and a temperature of 22 +/- 1 ° C.

[66] Materials used:

- Collagen bio matrix leaf (CBM)

- 5 PMMA plates of 10 cm x 5 cm

- Tesa double-sided adhesive tape

- "C700d" spectrophotometer from Konica Minolta GmbH

- Absolute ethanol and cosmetic paper tissues

- Sliding frame (interior opening: 25 x 20 mm)

- Cotton cosmetic patches

- Silk brushes

- Eppendorf Multipipette® plus 2.5 ml

- H3P-Derma modified tribology bench by Ziegler Instruments GmbH

[67] In this test, the cleansing effectiveness of composition 1 according to the invention is compared with that of two commercial compositions A and B of the prior art.

[68] The oily phase of composition A consists of a mixture of isododecane, isopropyl palmitate, dimethicone and helianthus annuus seed (sunflower oil).

The aqueous phase of composition A comprises water, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, methyl propanediol, trisodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol and benzethonium chloride. The oily phase of composition B consists of a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, isohexadecane and hexyl laurate. The aqueous phase of composition B comprises water, caprylyl / capryl glucoside, methylpropanediol, propylene glycol, methyl paraben, tetrasodium EDTA, potassium sorbate, sodium chloride and magnesium chloride.

[69] Test procedure:

[70] In this in vitro test, the collagen biomatrix (CBM) serves as a skin substitute because it has some similarities to human skin, in particular its medium roughness. The CBM is cut to size and glued onto 5x10 cm PMMA sheets using double-sided adhesive tape. Before applying a test cosmetic, each CBM is gently cleaned with an ethanol-soaked tissue. After its evaporation, a sliding frame is placed in the center of the test zone and 50 mΐ of a cosmetic is applied using a pipette on its interior opening. The cosmetic to be tested is distributed evenly by dabbing the sample over the opening of the slide frame with a clean bristle brush and dried for at least an hour. The prepared test samples are shown in Figure 3: CBM samples prepared respectively, from left to right, with lipstick, eye shadow, foundation and mascara.

[71] A tribological bench is used to maintain constant test conditions. A cotton swab is attached to the probe head and the HDM holder prepared with the test portion is mounted on the sampling table.

[72] The principle of the tribological bench is the use of a high precision linear drive which allows the probe head to move against the static sampling table under individually adjustable conditions such as speed and position.

[73] The cosmetic cotton is soaked uniformly with 1 ml of the two-phase product (composition A, B or 1) well mixed and fixed to the head of the probe. The probe head is lined with silicone, giving it a degree of elasticity to mimic skin when applied in vivo. The test parameters used are listed below:

[74] Parameters:

Travel (one way): 56 mm Probe head speed: 30 mm / s

Normal force of the probe head acting on the sampling table: 3 N Cleaning cycles (back and forth movement):

Foundation: 2 Mascara (waterproof): 3 Eye shadow: 3 Lipstick: 3

[75] The cosmetic composition can be spread over the cleaned area during the cleaning procedure. Therefore, an application area as well as a smear zone are defined.

[76] Five HD samples are used for each test formulation and each cosmetic. Five measurements of the CIE L * a * b color space are carried out in the application zone of the untreated substrate, after cosmetic application and after cleaning using a calibrated spectrophotometer. In addition, the color of the stained area is measured after the cleaning process.

[77] The average of the five measured L * a * b color values is calculated and used to determine the ΔE color distances between untreated test samples and prepared samples (ΔEblank) [%], prepared samples and the wiped samples (ΔEwiped) [%] as well as the untreated area compared to the stained area

(ΔEsmeared) [%]. The color measurement scheme is shown in Figure 4.

[78] The Grubbs test for outliers is applied to detect and eliminate data that probably does not belong to a normal distribution. The color distances L * a * b are determined by the formula:

[79]

The cleaning efficiency is determined by the ratio: cleansing efficacy = (ΔEwiped / ΔEblank) * 100

The smear is referenced to ΔEwiped and calculated by the formula: smearing: (ΔEsmeared / ΔEwiped) * 100 [80] Tukey's test is performed to check whether the resulting mean color distances are significantly different from each other with a 95% confidence level.

[81] The Grubbs test for outliers did not reveal any outliers. The results are visualized in Tables 9 and 10 below. Regarding cleaning efficiency, the higher the value (in%), the better the result; a cleaning efficiency of 100% indicates complete removal of the cosmetic from the sample being tested. In the case of the smearing measurement, a lower% indicates a better result. The cleaning results obtained respectively with compositions A, B and 1 are presented in Table 9 below:

82] Table 5: cleaning efficiency test of compositions A, B and 1 (average over n = 5 measurements, Tuckey test: p <0.05).

83] Table 6: smearing of compositions A, B and 1 (average over n = 5 measurements, Tuckey test: p <0.05).

[84] The results obtained show that the two-phase makeup remover composition according to the invention exhibits makeup removing effectiveness comparable to that of known compositions, available commercially. Composition 1 also exhibits good “smearing” properties, comparable to that of composition A and better than those of composition B.

Claims

[Claim 1] A two-phase makeup removing composition comprising:

- from 5 to 50%, preferably 20 to 45% and more preferably from 30 to 40%, by mass of oily phase, calculated with respect to the total mass of the composition, and

- from 50 to 95%, preferably 55 to 80% and more preferably from 60 to 70%, by mass of aqueous phase, calculated with respect to the total mass of the composition, characterized in that the oily phase comprises one or more alkane oil (s) of natural origin, not petrochemical.

[Claim 2] A composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the oily phase comprises an alkane or a mixture of C9 to 02 alkanes, an alkane or a mixture of C 9 to 15 alkanes and a volatile hydrocarbon oil.

[Claim 3] A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oily phase comprises a C9-12 alkane, a 03-15 alkane and a volatile hydrocarbon oil, said volatile hydrocarbon oil being preferably chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 19 carbon atoms, such as undecane, tridecane and their mixtures, undecane-tridecane mixtures.

[Claim 4] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 1 to 10% by mass of alkane or of mixture of C9 to 02 alkanes, preferably of C9-12 alkane, calculated relative to the total mass. of the oily phase.

[Claim 5] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 50 to 89% by mass of alkane or of mixture of C 3 to 5 alkanes, preferably of 03-15 alkane, calculated relative to the total mass of the oily phase.

[Claim 6] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 10 to 40% by mass of volatile hydrocarbon oil, calculated with respect to the total mass of the oily phase.

[Claim 7] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a surfactant, preferably nonionic, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, calculated relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 8] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a preservative and / or an antimicrobial agent, preferably from 0.01 to 1% by mass, calculated on the total mass of the composition.

[Claim 9] Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a solvent, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by mass, calculated with respect to the total mass of the composition.

[Claim 10] A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising an interface and phase shift time adjuster, preferably a salt such as calcium chloride, calcium sulfate, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate. , husbands sal, potassium citrate, sodium chloride, sodium citrate and mixtures thereof.

[Claim 11] Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for removing makeup from the skin, eyes and / or lips.

[Claim 12] Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for cleansing the face and / or body.

[Claim 13] Cosmetic process for removing make-up from the skin, eyes and / or lips, comprising at least one step consisting in applying to the skin, eyes and / or lips at least one composition according to any one of the following. claims 1 to 10.

[Claim 14] A cosmetic method for cleansing the face and / or the body, comprising at least one step of applying to the face and / or the body at least one composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10.