EP3993758A1 - Feste kosmetische zusammensetzung - Google Patents

Feste kosmetische zusammensetzung

Info

Publication number
EP3993758A1
EP3993758A1 EP20753982.6A EP20753982A EP3993758A1 EP 3993758 A1 EP3993758 A1 EP 3993758A1 EP 20753982 A EP20753982 A EP 20753982A EP 3993758 A1 EP3993758 A1 EP 3993758A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
composition according
solid cosmetic
weight
acid
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP20753982.6A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Lina DUPUIS
Cyril GIBERT
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Chanel Parfums Beaute SAS
Original Assignee
Chanel Parfums Beaute SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Chanel Parfums Beaute SAS filed Critical Chanel Parfums Beaute SAS
Publication of EP3993758A1 publication Critical patent/EP3993758A1/de
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/025—Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0254—Platelets; Flakes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0254—Platelets; Flakes
    • A61K8/0258—Layered structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition
  • a solid cosmetic composition comprising 12 to 50% by weight of a non-volatile liquid fatty phase, and 40 to 85% by weight of a pulverulent phase comprising spherical fillers surface treated with a metallic soap.
  • the invention also relates to a process for preparing such a solid cosmetic composition and to a process for making up the skin or the lips using it.
  • the dosage forms conventionally adopted for the solid compositions are generally free or compact powders.
  • the aforementioned powders mainly have the function of providing color, mattness or even providing coverage.
  • the powders combine a largely predominant pulverulent phase with a fatty phase at least partly liquid constituting the binder and making it possible, in the context of compact powders, to ensure good cohesion of the pulverulent phase.
  • a pulverulent phase is essentially formed of fillers and coloring agents, the amount of the latter being modulated to provide the desired makeup effect, color, covering or mattifying.
  • percentage of pulverulent phase in the product becomes too high, its manufacture and compacting become complicated or even impossible to achieve at an industrial level, taking into account the quality and productivity requirements.
  • solid compositions with a high content of pulverulent phase can have the drawback of being uncomfortable, too dry and too powdery and for some of being fragile, brittle, with poor impact resistance.
  • large amounts of pulverulent phase in the compact powder do not give sensory properties. satisfactory, making them difficult to disintegrate when the powder is taken from its packaging (“pick-up”) and / or to spread when it is applied to the surface of the skin to be made up (“pay-off”).
  • a compaction process consisting in mixing the pulverulent phase and the fatty phase and in compacting the resulting composition under high pressure in a housing .
  • a process referred to as a “wet process” can be implemented to produce such compositions.
  • the pulverulent phase and the fatty phase of said composition are placed in the presence of a volatile solvent so as to form a suspension, which is then pressed and the volatile solvent removed.
  • the amount of fatty phase, and in particular of oils generally does not exceed 10% of the composition so as to obtain good compacting of the powder via mechanical means, and also to avoid any overflow of the composition of the case.
  • these galenics very often oblige formulators to limit the amount of fatty phase, and in particular of oil (s), so as to ensure good compacting of the powder.
  • compositions exhibiting such properties could be obtained by using, in a solid composition, a specific content of a particular liquid fatty phase, and a pulverulent phase at least in part treated at the surface with a metallic soap.
  • a solid cosmetic composition comprising:
  • a pulverulent phase comprising spherical fillers treated at the surface with a metallic soap
  • the subject of the invention is a solid cosmetic composition
  • a solid cosmetic composition comprising:
  • a pulverulent phase comprising spherical fillers surface treated with a metallic soap and further comprising a lamellar filler surface treated with a metallic soap,
  • the invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition
  • a solid cosmetic composition comprising:
  • a pulverulent phase comprising spherical and / or lamellar fillers treated at the surface with a metallic soap
  • a subject of the invention is also, according to a second aspect, a process for preparing such a composition, comprising:
  • a further subject of the invention is a process for making up the skin or the lips, consisting in applying to the skin or the lips such a solid cosmetic composition.
  • composition according to the invention is solid, in that it does not flow under its own weight. It is preferably in the form of a pasty product, obtained by extrusion of a mixture of a pulverulent phase and a fatty phase, optionally in the presence of a volatile solvent which will be evaporated (“slurry” process). .
  • composition according to the invention has a hardness of between 30g and 250g, preferably between 50g and 230g, more preferably between 80g and 200g.
  • the hardness of the composition which is expressed in grams (g) is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 ° C using a texturometer sold under the name "TA-XT Plus Microstable System ”by the company Swantech.
  • the texturometer is equipped with a cylindrical probe of ref P / 2 of 2mm in diameter in stainless steel of the Stable Micro System brand moving at the measuring speed of 1 mm / s and penetrating into the composition to a depth of 3 mm with a force of 3mm.
  • the hardness value is the measured compressive force divided by the area of the texturometer's cynlindrical probe in contact with the composition.
  • the measurement is made in 15 ml perfume jars 40mm in height and 38mm in diameter, filled at room temperature up to the neck, ie 20mm in height, with the composition.
  • the samples thus prepared are stored for 24 h at 20 ° C. before carrying out the measurement.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile liquid fatty phase, that is to say a fatty phase comprising at least one non-volatile oil.
  • non-volatile oil is meant an oil remaining on the keratin fibers at room temperature and at least atmospheric pressure. several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
  • the non-volatile oils can, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon-based and fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil mention may in particular be made of:
  • Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as linear C4 to C36 alkanes, preferably C11 -C21 such as phyto squalane or Emogreen L15 from SEPPIC (C15-19 alkane), or even such as phytostearyl esters , such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, including acids fatty can have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36; these oils can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils can, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, millet, barley, quinoa, ry
  • John's wort oil monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, l 'evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, oil pumpkin e, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil (Helianthus Annuus seed oil), oil castor oil, and watermelon oil, ethyl olivate such as Vegeflow D10 innovation company and their mixtures, or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the MIGLYOL names 810®, 812® and 818® by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL,
  • R1 COOR2 oils of formula R1 COOR2 in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms on condition that R1 + R2 is> 10.
  • the esters can be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol , such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearate stearate 'octyl, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactacte, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols , such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridec
  • esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate
  • dimer diol and dimer diacid and their esters such as dilinoleyl diol / dilinoleic dimer dimer copolymers and their esters, such as, for example, Plandool-G,
  • - copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and their esters such as Hailuscent ISDA, - fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-blatyloctanol , and 2- undecylpentadecanol,
  • C 12 -C 22 such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, and mixtures thereof
  • di-alkyl carbonates the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC®, by COGNIS,
  • oils of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass ranging from approximately 400 to approximately 10,000 g / mol, in particular, from approximately 650 to approximately 10,000 g / mol, in particular, from approximately 750 at approximately 7500 g / mol, and more particularly, varying from approximately 1000 to approximately 5000 g / mol,
  • phenylated silicones such as BELSIL PDM 1000 from the company WACIER
  • fluorinated oils which can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicon oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847752.
  • the non-volatile liquid fatty phase comprises at least one non-volatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils, non-phenyl silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
  • the non-volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils, and the composition comprises from 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of nacres treated with surface by metallic soap.
  • the non-volatile oil is chosen from non-phenylated silicone oils.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise a volatile liquid fatty phase, that is to say a fatty phase comprising at least one volatile oil.
  • volatile oil means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin fibers in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0, 13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mm of Hg), in particular ranging from 1, 3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm of Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1, 3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
  • the volatile liquid fatty phase can comprise at least one volatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile oil can be hydrocarbon.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • As volatile hydrocarbon-based oil having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms mention may in particular be made of branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane. and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil having 8 to 16 carbon atoms is chosen from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and their mixtures, and is in particular isododecane.
  • the volatile oil can be a volatile linear alkane.
  • an alkane suitable for the invention can be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • Such a volatile linear alkane can be advantageously of plant origin.
  • alkanes suitable for the invention mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO 2007/1068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and differing by at least a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.
  • linear alkanes suitable for the invention there may be mentioned n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C1 1), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 15505 from the company Cognis. Mention may also be made of the mixture of n-undecane (C1 1) and of n-tridecane (C13) sold by the company BASF under the name CETIOL ULTIMATE. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures.
  • the volatile oil can be a volatile silicone oil such as cyclic polysiloxanes, linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof.
  • a volatile silicone oil such as cyclic polysiloxanes, linear polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof.
  • linear volatile polysiloxanes mention may be made of hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane.
  • volatile cyclic polysiloxanes mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
  • the composition produced can comprise at least one volatile fluorinated oil.
  • the composition according to the invention is free of volatile liquid fatty phase, that is to say free of volatile oil.
  • free of volatile oil means a composition comprising less than 3% by weight of volatile oil, preferably less than 1% by weight, and more preferably not comprising any volatile oil.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise a solid fatty phase, comprising at least one wax and / or a pasty fatty substance and / or a lipophilic gelling agent.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, of a solid fatty phase.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise at least one wax.
  • the wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a higher melting point or equal to 30 ° C up to 120 ° C.
  • the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than approximately 45 ° C., and in particular greater than 55 ° C.
  • the melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.
  • D.S.C. differential scanning calorimeter
  • the waxes capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, which are solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the wax can also have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 30 MPa, and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa.
  • the hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 ° C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2Î by the company RHEO, equipped with a cylinder in stainless steel with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm.
  • hydrocarbon waxes such as lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers as well as their esters.
  • a mixture of jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax is for example marketed under the reference ACTICIRE MP by the company GATTEFOSSE.
  • the hydrocarbon waxes can be chosen from Carnauba wax, beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof.
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, C 8 -C 32 ⁇
  • hydrogenated jojoba oil hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, tetrastearate.
  • di- (trimethylol-1, 1, 1 propane) sold under the name "FIEST 2T-4S” by the company FIETERENE
  • tetrabhenate of di- (trimethylol-1, 1, 1 propane) sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.
  • vegetable oils such as castor or olive oil
  • SOPFIIM Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73®
  • Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.
  • Silicone waxes can also be used, which can advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point. These silicone waxes are known or can be prepared according to known methods. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1 1 18-3 and 176-1 1481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC), alkyl- or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428.
  • hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example: siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax from Koster Keunen.
  • the waxes can also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.
  • the compositions according to the invention can comprise at least one wax called a sticky wax.
  • a sticky wax a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used, alone or as a mixture, in particular a 12- (12'-hydroxystearyloxy) stearate.
  • C20-C40 alkyl Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
  • the waxes are chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, preferably chosen from Carnauba wax, beeswax, jojoba wax, mimosa wax, sunflower wax, and their mixtures.
  • the solid fatty phase can also comprise a pasty, hydrocarbon-based, silicone and / or fluorinated fatty substance, or a mixture of these.
  • the term "pasty fatty substance” means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change exhibiting in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the starting melting point of the pasty fatty substance can be less than 23 ° C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. This fraction which is liquid at 23 ° C. preferably represents between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.
  • the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of a pasty fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments.
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first rise in temperature ranging from - 20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to - 20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from - 20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute .
  • the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of pasty fatty substance is measured as a function of the temperature.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23 ° C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to standard ISO 1 1357-3: 1999.
  • DS C differential scanning calorimeter
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the quantity of energy necessary to change the pasty fatty substance from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.
  • the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state it presents at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and of a solid fraction.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32 ° C preferably represents from 30 to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance, preferably from 50 to 100%, more preferably from 60 to 100% by weight of the body pasty fat.
  • the temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty fatty substance is less than or equal to 32 ° C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32 ° C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.
  • the pasty fatty substance is preferably chosen from synthetic fatty substances and fatty substances of plant origin.
  • a pasty fatty substance can be obtained by synthesis from starting products of plant origin.
  • polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers
  • the pasty fatty substance is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon-based polymer.
  • liposoluble polyethers preference is given in particular to copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene-oxides, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene- oxide and / or propyleneoxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30.
  • copolymers such as long-chain alkylene-oxides arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a block copolymer of polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol such as ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol ) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) sold under the brand ELFACOS ST9 by AKZO NOBEL.
  • esters the following are preferred:
  • esters of an oligomeric glycerol in particular esters of diglycerol, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as acid stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed under the Softisan649 brand by SASOL,
  • esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer where appropriate, esterified on their alcohol (s) or free acid (s) function (s) with acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters;
  • esters can be chosen in particular from the esters of the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinelectricaciyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl isostearyl dimerdilinoleate (Lusplan PI-DA, Lusplan PHY / IS-DA / phytosteryl), isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S) and mixtures thereof,
  • the composition according to the invention can comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent, for example consisting of copolymers of styrene and olefins such as ethylene, propylene and / or butylene, optionally combined with silicone or hydrocarbon solvents, as described in particular in application WO 98/38981 and in US Pat. No. 6,309,629, or copolymers of styrene and of butadiene such as those sold under the reference OleaoFLEX EG 200 by the company Applechem. They include the block terpolymers based gelling available from Penreco under the VERSAGEL ® trade name.
  • lipophilic gelling agent consists of polyamides such as those identified by the INCI name polyamide-3 and in particular the SYLVACLEAR ® AF 1900V and PA 1200V polymers available from the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL as well as those identified by the INCI name "Ethylenediamine / Hydrogenated Dimer dilinoleate Copolymer Bis-Di-C14-18 Alkyl Amide "and available for example under the trade name SYLVACLEAR ® A200V or SYLVACLEAR A2614V ® from Arizona Chemical.
  • the lipophilic gelling agent may alternatively be a hydrophobic modified bentone or hectorite.
  • the gelling agent for the oils can also be a polyurethane gelling agent, preferably of natural origin such as a castor oil derivative available for example under the trade name EstoGel® M by the company Polymerexpert.
  • the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one pulverulent phase comprising spherical fillers treated at the surface with a metallic soap.
  • the pulverulent phase can also comprise a lamellar filler treated at the surface with a metallic soap.
  • the pulverulent phase can, preferably, also comprise nacres and / or pigments, optionally treated at the surface with a metallic soap, and preferably at least nacres, optionally treated at the surface with a metallic soap.
  • the pulverulent phase used in the compositions according to the invention is at least in part treated at the surface with a metallic soap.
  • the pulverulent phase comprises at least spherical fillers treated at the surface with a metallic soap.
  • the pulverulent phase comprises at least spherical fillers treated at the surface with a metallic soap and further comprises a lamellar filler treated at the surface with a metallic soap.
  • At least 30% by weight, preferably 30 to 50% by weight of nacres are surface treated with a metallic soap.
  • the non-volatile oil used is a hydrocarbon oil.
  • the metallic soap is a soap of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the metal of the metallic soap is for its part preferably chosen from zinc and magnesium.
  • the metallic soap is chosen from zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and their mixtures, and preferably, the metallic soap is magnesium stearate.
  • the fillers can be mineral or organic.
  • the pulverulent phase comprises at least one spherical filler treated at the surface with a metallic soap.
  • powders of acrylic (co) polymers, and their derivatives in particular powders of acrylate (co) polymer, and their derivatives, advantageously chosen from a powder of polymethyl methacrylate, a powder of polymethyl methacrylate / di methacrylate ethylene glycol, a powder of polymethacrylate of allyl / dimethacrylate of ethylene glycol, a powder of copolymer of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate, a powder of optionally crosslinked acrylate / alkyl acrylate, the particles hollow expanded acrylonitrile (co) polymer, and their mixture (s);
  • Silicone powders advantageously chosen from a powder of polymethylsilsesquioxane, of organopolysiloxane elastomer coated with silicone resin, a powder of organosilicon particles;
  • Nylon® in particular Nylon 12
  • the composition can further comprise a lamellar filler treated at the surface with a metallic soap.
  • a lamellar filler treated at the surface with a metallic soap.
  • the lamellar fillers mention may be made of talc, natural or synthetic mica, certain silicas, clays such as magnesium and aluminum silicate, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate and 'magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, fluorphlogopite, perlite powders, N-Lauroyl Lysine powder, sericite, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, and their mixture (s) (s).
  • lamellar fillers preferred are talc, natural or synthetic mica, certain silicas, clays such as magnesium and aluminum silicate, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, fluorphlogopite, perlite powders, N-Lauroyl Lysine powder, sericite, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, and their mixture (s).
  • clays such as magnesium and aluminum silicate, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, fluorphlogopite, perlite powders, N-Lauroyl Lysine powder, sericite, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, and their mixture (s).
  • the composition can further include an additional filler.
  • the additional filler can be chosen from mineral or organic fillers of any shape, lamellar, spherical (or hemispherical) whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorombic, etc.)
  • the pulverulent phase comprises lamellar and spherical fillers in a lamellar / spherical ratio ranging from 1/10 to 10/1, preferably from 1/5 to 9/1. This ratio is a weight ratio.
  • the term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or colored particles, inorganic or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.
  • the pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.
  • the pigment can be an organic pigment.
  • organic pigment is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter organic pigment.
  • the organic pigment may in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane.
  • the organic pigment (s) can be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments. codified in the Color Index under the references C1 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 1 1680, 1 1710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21 100, 21 108 , 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CM 1725, 15510,45370, 71 105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200
  • These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as they are described in patent EP 1 184 426.
  • These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the attachment of the organic pigments to the core.
  • the pigment can also be a lacquer.
  • lacquer is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
  • lakes mention may be made of the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (Cl 15 850: 1).
  • the pigment can be an inorganic pigment.
  • inorganic pigment is meant any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Mention may be made, among the inorganic pigments useful in the present invention, the oxides of zirconium or of cerium, as well as the oxides of zinc, of iron (black, yellow or red) or of chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue. , chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder.
  • the following inorganic pigments can also be used: Ti 2 0 5 , Ti 3 0 5 , Ti 2 0 3 , TiO, Zr0 2 as a mixture with TiC0 2 , Zr0 2 , Nb 2 0 5 , Ce0 2 , ZnS.
  • the size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 10 ⁇ m, preferably between 20 nm and 5 ⁇ m, and more preferably between 30 nm and 1 ⁇ m.
  • the coloring agent can also be a soluble dye, preferably water soluble.
  • D & C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D & C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D & C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D & C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D & C Red 33 ( Cl 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985).
  • D & C Green (Cl 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (Cl 77 002), D & C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D & C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).
  • the nacres can be chosen from those conventionally present in makeup products, such as mica / titanium dioxide. As a variant, they may be nacres based on mica / silica / titanium dioxide, based on synthetic fluorphlogopite / titanium dioxide (SUNSHINE ® from MAPRECOS), calcium sodium borosilicate / titanium dioxide (REFLECKS ® from ENGELHARD) or calcium aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide (RONASTAR ® from MERCK).
  • SUNSHINE ® synthetic fluorphlogopite / titanium dioxide
  • REFLECKS ® calcium sodium borosilicate / titanium dioxide
  • RONASTAR ® calcium aluminum borosilicate / silica / titanium dioxide
  • composition according to the invention comprises from 40 to 85% by weight of pulverulent phase, preferably from 50 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one polyol.
  • polyol is understood to mean any organic molecule having in its structure at least 2 free hydroxy (—OH) groups. These polyols are preferably liquid at room temperature (25 ° C).
  • polyols suitable for use in the composition can be chosen from propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, pentanediol, isoprene glycol, neopentyl glycol, glycerol, polyethylene glycols (PEG) having in particular from 4 to 8 ethylene glycol units and / or sorbitol.
  • PEG polyethylene glycols
  • the polyol is glycerol.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises from 2 to 30% by weight of polyols, preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise an emulsifying agent.
  • emulsifying agents can be chosen from nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric surfactants or else polymeric surfactants.
  • the surfactants which can be used within the framework of the invention are chosen from nonionic surfactants of HLB of between 8 and 20 at 25 ° C.
  • HLB nonionic surfactants of between 8 and 20 at 25 ° C.
  • esters and ethers of ose such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols, such as Montanov 68 from Seppic; - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of glycerol;
  • - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of C8 -C24 alcohol, and preferably of C12 -C18) such as oxyethylene ether cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30”), the oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20”), the oxyethylene ether of the mixture of C12- C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “C12-15 Pareth-7”) in particular sold under the name NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS
  • - fatty acid esters in particular of C8 -C24 acid, and preferably of C16 -C22
  • polyethylene glycol which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units
  • PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate in particular, marketed under the name MYRJ 52P® by the company ICI UNIQUEMA, or else PEG-30 glyceryl stearate in particular marketed under the name TAGAT S® by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT;
  • - fatty acid esters (in particular of C8 -C24, and preferably C16 -C22) acid and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate, in particular sold under the name Simulsol 220 TM® by the company SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAGAT S® product sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the TAGAT O® product sold by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product VARIONIC Ll 13® sold by the company SHEREX, polyethoxyl
  • polysorbate 20 in particular sold under the name Tween 20® by the company CRODA
  • polysorbate 60 in particular sold under the name Tween 60® by the company CRODA
  • lysophosphatidylcholine of the following formula [CHEM1]:
  • R is a fatty acid chain, comprising in particular from 10 to 25 carbon atoms, preferably from 15 to 20.
  • the lysophospholipid used in the composition of the invention is obtained from soybeans. More preferably, it has the INCI name glycine soya (soybean) seed extract.
  • glycine soya soybean seed extract
  • the mixture of 80% by weight glycerin and 20% by weight soybean (soybean) seed extract sold by Kemin under the name Lysofix Liquid® is used;
  • - emulsifying waxes such as the self-emulsifying wax sold under the name Polawax NF by Croda, or the PEG-8 beeswax sold under the name Apifil by Gattefossé,
  • the emulsifying agent for a FILB of between 8 and 20 is chosen from fatty acid esters and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • Lysophospholipids such as Lysofix Liquid® allow the composition to thicken.
  • the surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from nonionic surfactants with an HLB of less than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C.
  • HLB HLB of less than or equal to 8 at 25 ° C.
  • sucrose stearate sucrose cocoate
  • sorbitan stearate and mixtures thereof, such as Arlatone 2121® sold by the company ICI;
  • - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (which may contain from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular of C8 -C24 alcohol, and preferably of C12 -C18) such as oxyethylene ether stearyl alcohol with 2 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name “Steareth-2”);
  • esters of fatty acids in particular of C8 -C24 acid, and preferably of C16 C22
  • polyol in particular of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the name TEGIN M® by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the name IMWITOR 312® by the company HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, sorbitan tristearate, ricinoleate glyceryl;
  • Lecithins such as soya lecithins (such as Emulmetik 100 J from Cargill, or Biophilic H from Lucas Meyer);
  • the silicone emulsifier which can be used in the composition according to the invention is a siloxane polymer comprising:
  • the fatty side chain of the silicone emulsifier makes it possible to have good compatibility with the fatty phase of the water-in-oil emulsion.
  • the silicone side chain makes it possible to have good compatibility with the non-volatile silicone oil, when the non-volatile oil of the cosmetic emulsion of the invention is a silicone oil.
  • the silicone emulsifier comprises a fatty side chain and a silicone side chain.
  • the silicone emulsifier is chosen from the group comprising:
  • x ' is an integer ranging from 1 to 50
  • x, y and z independently of each other represent an integer ranging from 1 to 100:
  • the silicone emulsifier is chosen from the group comprising the siloxane polymers sold by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KF6038, KF6104, KF6105, KF6106 and their mixtures.
  • the compound KF6038 having the INCI name "Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone” corresponds to the general formula (I).
  • This siloxane polymer comprises a silicone side chain, an oxyethylenated side chain and a fatty side chain (lauryl).
  • the compound KF6104, having the INCI name "Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone”, and the compound KF6106, having the INCI name "Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone” respond to the general formula (II).
  • This siloxane polymer comprises a silicone side chain and a glyceryl side chain.
  • the compound KF6105, having the INCI name "Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone” corresponds to the general formula (III).
  • This siloxane polymer comprises a silicone side chain, a glyceryl side chain and a fatty side chain (lauryl).
  • the surfactant is chosen from silicone surfactants such as compound KF6028 or compound KF6038 or a mixture thereof.
  • the silicone emulsifier is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5%, preferably from 1% to 3%, the percentages being percentages by weight relative to the weight total composition.
  • the surfactant is chosen from non-silicone surfactants, preferably polysorbate 20.
  • composition according to the invention may contain from 0.1 to 5% by weight of emulsifying agent, relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably from 1 to 3% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one film-forming polymer.
  • film-forming polymers which can be used in the compositions of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the term “radical film-forming polymer” means a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers containing in particular ethylenic unsaturation, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).
  • the film-forming polymers of radical type can in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.
  • the vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.
  • unsaturated ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenic carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid.
  • Use is preferably made of (meth) acrylic acid, itaconic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably itaconic acid (for example a metal salt of poly (itaconic acid) such as that marketed under the trade reference REVCARE. NE 100S by the company Itaconix).
  • esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular of C1 - alkyl. C30, preferably C1-C20, aryl (meth) acrylates, in particular C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.
  • alkyl (meth) acrylates of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl, cyclohexyl methacrylate.
  • hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.
  • aryl (meth) acrylates mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.
  • esters of (meth) acrylic acid are alkyl (meth) acrylates.
  • the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that part or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms. .
  • amides of acidic monomers there may be mentioned, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of C2-C12 alkyl.
  • N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.
  • the vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or the copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers.
  • these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.
  • vinyl esters mention may be made of vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.
  • styrenic monomers there may be mentioned styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.
  • styrene / butadiene block copolymers such as products from the company Kraton, or OLEOFLEX EG 200 from the company APPLECHEM.
  • film-forming polycondensates mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.
  • the polyurethanes can be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, acrylic polyurethanes, poly-urethanes-polyvinylpirrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes , and their mixtures. Polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.
  • the dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic.
  • acids that may be mentioned include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, acid 2,2 -dimethylglutaric, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1, 3- acid cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid.
  • These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least
  • the diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols.
  • a diol chosen from among: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol and 4-butanediol is preferably used.
  • As other polyols glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane can be used.
  • the polyesters amides can be obtained in a manner analogous to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amine alcohols.
  • diamine it is possible to use ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine.
  • aminoalcohol monoethanolamine can be used.
  • polyamide resins there may also be mentioned that corresponding to the name INCI DIISOSTEARYL MALATE & BIS DIOCTADECYLAMIDE DIMER DILINOLEIC ACID / ETHYLENE DIAMINE COPOLYMER marketed under the name of Haimalate PAM by the company Kokyu alcohol Kogyo.
  • the polyester can also comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one -SO3M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4 + or a metal ion, such as for example an Na +, Li +, K + ion, Mg2 +, Ca2 +, Cu2 +, Fe2 +, Fe3 +. It is in particular possible to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a —SO3M group.
  • the aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer additionally bearing a —SO3M group as described above can be chosen, for example, from the benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxidiphenyl and sulfonyldiphenyl rings. methylenediphenyl.
  • a bifunctional aromatic monomer also bearing a —SO3M group there may be mentioned: sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.
  • copolymers based on isophthalate / sulphoisophthalate and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulphoisophthalic acid.
  • the polymers of natural origin can be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, arabic gum (ACACIA SENEGAL GUM), dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, polymers. extracts of the fruit of Caesalpinia spinosa and / or of the alga Kappaphycus alvarezii (such as the Filmexel® product sold by the company Silab), and mixtures thereof.
  • a natural polymer such as Filmexel® makes it possible in particular to improve the hold of the film obtained from the composition according to the invention.
  • film-forming polymers corresponding to the INCI name SHOERA ROBUSTA RESIN + BEESWAX, SHOERA ROBUSTA RESIN + SUNFLOWER OIL, ARAUCARIA + SUNFLOWER OIL, ARAUCARIA + CASTOR OIL, SHOERA ROBUSTA + OCTYLDODECANOL
  • the film-forming polymer may be a polymer dissolved in a liquid fatty phase comprising oils or organic solvents (the film-forming polymer is then said to be a liposoluble polymer).
  • a liposoluble polymer By way of example of a liposoluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear hydrocarbon radical. or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an ⁇ -olefin (having 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkylvinylether (whose alkyl group contains from 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allylic or methallyl ester (having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group).
  • vinyl ester copolymers the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear hydrocarbon radical. or branched, from
  • copolymers can be crosslinked using crosslinkers which can be either of the vinyl type, or of the allylic or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.
  • crosslinkers which can be either of the vinyl type, or of the allylic or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.
  • copolymers examples include vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate.
  • vinyl / octadecylvinylether vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether , vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, dimethyl propionate vinyl allyl / stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether
  • liposoluble film-forming polymers mention may also be made of liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the allyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • Such liposoluble copolymers can be chosen from copolymers of vinyl polystearate, of vinyl polystearate crosslinked using of divinylbenzene, of diallyl ether or of diallyl phthalate, copolymers of poly (meth) acrylate of stearyl, of polyvinyl laurate, of poly (meth) acrylate of lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates being able to be crosslinked using methylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
  • the liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.
  • liposoluble homopolymers and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • fat-soluble homopolymers mention may be made in particular of: polyvinyl laurate and poly (meth) acrylates of lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates possibly being crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of tetraethylene glycol.
  • liposoluble film-forming polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 alkyl radical. to C8 like ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 alkene and better still to C3 to C20.
  • polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 alkyl radical. to C8 like ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 alkene and better
  • a VP copolymer which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene (ANTARON V220 sold by the company Ashland), VP / hexadecene (ANTARON V216 sold by the company Ashland), VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrolidone
  • ALARON V220 sold by the company Ashland
  • VP / hexadecene ANTARON V216 sold by the company Ashland
  • VP / triacontene VP / styrene
  • dextrin esters and in particular:
  • sucrose acetate isobutyrate sold under the name EASTMAN SUSTANE SAIB by the company EASTMAN.
  • silicone resins generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers.
  • the nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name “MDTQ”, the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters “MDTQ” characterizing a type of unit.
  • polymethylsilsesquioxane resins examples include those marketed by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK, and by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L. , or silform fleible resin.
  • TMS trimethylsiloxysilicate
  • SR1000 by the company General Electric
  • TMS 803 by the company Wacker
  • silicone resins such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers sold by the company Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA and described in document US Pat. 5,162,410 or also silicone copolymers resulting from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and of a diorganosiloxane such as described in document WO 2004/073626.
  • copolymers with a non-silicone organic backbone grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane unit such as for example the butyl acrylate / hydroxypropyl dimethicone acrylate copolymer sold under the name GRANACRYSIL BAS by the company GRANT.
  • acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymers comprising a dendrimeric carbosiloxane structure grafted onto a vinyl backbone available commercially under the references DOW CORNING FA 4002 ID or DOW CORNING FA 4001 CM.
  • silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5. , 874,069, US-A-5, 919,441, US-A-6,051, 216 and US-A-5, 981, 680.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise a silicone elastomer.
  • the at least partially crosslinked polymers resulting from the reaction of an organopolysiloxane bearing unsaturated groups, such as vinyl or allyl groups, located at the end or in the middle of the chain, preferably on a silicon atom, with another reactive silicone compound such as an organohydrogenpolysiloxane.
  • an organopolysiloxane bearing unsaturated groups such as vinyl or allyl groups
  • another reactive silicone compound such as an organohydrogenpolysiloxane.
  • Examples of such elastomers are marketed in particular by the company SHIN ETSU under the trade names KSG-6, KSG-16, KSG-31, KSG-32, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44, and by the company DOW CORNING under the trade names DOWSIL TM 9040 and DOWSIL TM 9041.
  • Another oily gelling agent consists of a silicone polymer, obtained by self-polymerization of an organopolysiloxane functionalized with epoxy and hydrosilyl groups, in the presence of a catalyst, which is commercially available from the company General Electric under the tradename VELVESIL ® 125.
  • the silicone elastomer can be an emulsifier, preferably chosen from polyoxyalkylenated and polyglycerolated silicone elastomers.
  • polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers the following can be used: those of the INCI name PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer: such as those sold under the names "KSG-21", “KSG-20”, by Shin Etsu; - those of INCI name Lauryl PEG- 15 Dimethicone / Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer: like those marketed under the names "KSG-30” and "KSG-31", KSG-32 "(in isododecane),” KSG-33 "(in trioctanoine), "KSG-210", “KSG-310” (in mineral oil), “KSG-320” (in isododecane), "KSG-330", “KSG-340” by the company Shin Etsu .
  • polyglycerolated silicone elastomers the following can be used: - those with the INCI name Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer: such as those sold under the names "KSG-710" by Shin Etsu; those with the INCI name Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer: such as those sold under the names “KSG-840” (in squalene) by the company Shin Etsu.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally, at least one solvent soluble in water other than the polyols described above.
  • solvent soluble in water denotes in the present invention a compound which is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure ).
  • the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be volatile.
  • water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may in particular be made of mono-alcohols. having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, C3-C4 ketones and C 2 -C 4 aldehydes.
  • the composition according to the invention is free from water.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one cosmetic active ingredient, which can be chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, anti-pollution agents, keratolytic agents, astringents, anti-inflammatory agents. , whitening agents, self-tanners and agents promoting microcirculation.
  • at least one cosmetic active ingredient can be chosen from the group consisting of vitamins, antioxidants, moisturizing agents, anti-pollution agents, keratolytic agents, astringents, anti-inflammatory agents. , whitening agents, self-tanners and agents promoting microcirculation.
  • vitamins include vitamins A, B1, B2, B6, C and E and their derivatives, pantothenic acid and its derivatives and biotin.
  • antioxidants include ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl sorbate.
  • tocopherol and its derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, tocopherol sorbate and other tocopherol esters; BHT and BHA; esters of gallic acid, phosphoric acid, citric acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, cephalin, hexametaphosphate, phytic acid, and plant extracts, for example from the roots of Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) such as Blue Malagasy Ginger marketed by the company BIOLANDES, of Chondrus crispus, Rhodiola, Thermus thermophilus, mate leaf, oak wood, bark from Rapet Kayu, Sakura leaves and ylang ylang leaves.
  • Zingiber Officinale Ginger
  • BIOLANDES of Chondrus crispus, Rhodiola, Thermus thermophilus, mate leaf, oak wood, bark from Rapet Kayu, Sakura leaves and ylang ylang leaves.
  • hydrating agents include polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol, xylitol, sorbitol, maltitol, mucopolysaccharides, such as chondroitin sulfuric acid, l high or low molecular weight hyaluronic acid or alternatively hyaluronic acid potentiated by a silanol derivative such as the active Epidermosil ® marketed by the company Exymol, and mucoitinsulphuric acid; caronic acid; atelo collagen; chloresteryl-12-hydroxystearate; the salts bile, a major component of NHF (natural hydration factor) such as a salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and a salt of lactic acid, an amino acid analogue such as urea, cysteine and serine; short chain soluble collagen, diglycerin PPGs, 2-methacryloyloxye
  • NHF natural
  • moisturizing agents include compounds which stimulate the expression of MT / SP1 matriptase, such as an extract of carob bean pulp, as well as agents which stimulate the expression of CERT, of ARNT2 or of FN3K or FN3K RP; agents increasing the proliferation or differentiation of keratinocytes, either directly or indirectly by stimulating, for example, the production of b-endorphins, such as extracts of Thermus thermophilus or of Theobroma cacao bean hulls, water-soluble extracts of corn, peptide extracts of Voandzeia subterranea and niacinamide; epidermal lipids and agents increasing the synthesis of epidermal lipids, either directly or by stimulating certain b-glucosidases which modulate the deglycosylation of lipid precursors such as glucosylceramide to ceramides, such as phospholipids, ceramides, lupine protein hydrolysates and derivatives of dihydroja
  • anti-pollution agents include extract of seeds of Moringa pterygosperma (eg Purisoft ® from LSN); shea butter extract (eg Detoxyl ® from Silab), a mixture of ivy extract, phytic acid, sunflower seed extract (eg Osmopur ® from Sederma).
  • keratolytic agents include ⁇ -hydroxy acids (for example glycolic, lactic, citric, malic, mandelic, or tartaric acids) and b-hydroxy acids (for example salicylic acid), and their esters, such as C12-13 alkyl lactates, and plant extracts containing these hydroxy acids, such as extracts of Hibiscus sabdriffa.
  • Examples of astringents include extracts of witch hazel.
  • anti-inflammatory agents include bisabolol, allantoin, tranexamic acid, zinc oxide, sulfur oxide and its derivatives, chondroitin sulfate, glycyrrhizinic acid and its derivatives. derivatives such as glycyrrhizinates.
  • bleaching agents include arbutin and its derivatives, ferulic acid (such as Cytovector®: water, glycol, lecithin, ferulic acid, hydroxyethylcellulose, marketed by BASF) and its derivatives, acid kojic, resorcinol, lipoic acid and its derivatives such as resveratrol diacetate monolipoate as described in patent application WO2006134282, ellagic acid, leucodopachrome and its derivatives, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, ceramides and their homologues, a peptide as described in patent application WO2009010356, a bioprecursor as described in patent application WO2006134282 or a tranexamate salt such as the hydrochloride salt of cetyl tranexamate, a liquorice extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra extract), which is sold in particular by the company Maruzen under the trade name Lico
  • DHA An example of a self-tanner is DHA.
  • agents promoting microcirculation include an extract of lupine (such as Eclaline ® from Silab), ruscus, horse chestnut, ivy, ginseng or sweet clover, caffeine, nicotinate and its derivatives, a seaweed extract of Corallina officinalis such as that marketed by CODIF; and their mixtures. These agents which are active on the skin microcirculation can be used to prevent dulling of the complexion and / or to improve the uniformity and radiance of the complexion.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise other ingredients as long as they do not interfere with the desired properties of the composition.
  • these other ingredients can for example be preservatives, pH adjusters such as citric acid or arginine, antimicrobial agents, perfumes, sun filters, and mixtures thereof.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a process for preparing a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising:
  • the present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin or the lips, consisting in applying to the skin or the lips a solid cosmetic composition according to the invention.
  • Example 1 eye shadows
  • the powders constituting the pulverulent phase were premixed.
  • the fatty binder was then prepared comprising the fatty phase (liquid and solid).
  • the powders were pasted with the fat binder by extrusion.
  • compositions were then shaped by pressing.
  • the eye shadows obtained exhibit good cohesion and good impact resistance. In particular, they can be stored and transported without crumbling or cracking. Their texture allows easy disintegration and application.
  • Example 2 Blush - Complexion Highlighter - Bronzing Powder - Lipstick
  • the fatty binder was then prepared comprising the fatty phase (liquid and solid).
  • the powders were pasted with the fat binder by extrusion.
  • compositions were then shaped by pressing.
  • the compositions obtained exhibit good cohesion and good impact resistance. In particular, they can be stored and transported without crumbling or cracking. Their texture allows easy disintegration and application.

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EP20753982.6A 2019-07-03 2020-07-03 Feste kosmetische zusammensetzung Pending EP3993758A1 (de)

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WO2021001637A1 (fr) 2021-01-07
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FR3098110B1 (fr) 2022-02-04

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