EP3729987A1 - Lined garment - Google Patents

Lined garment Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3729987A1
EP3729987A1 EP18891387.5A EP18891387A EP3729987A1 EP 3729987 A1 EP3729987 A1 EP 3729987A1 EP 18891387 A EP18891387 A EP 18891387A EP 3729987 A1 EP3729987 A1 EP 3729987A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
lining
outer material
sleeve
forearm
jacket
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP18891387.5A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP3729987A4 (en
Inventor
Chisa YOSHIZAWA
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Asahi Kasei Corp
Asahi Chemical Industry Co Ltd
Original Assignee
Asahi Kasei Corp
Asahi Chemical Industry Co Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Asahi Kasei Corp, Asahi Chemical Industry Co Ltd filed Critical Asahi Kasei Corp
Publication of EP3729987A1 publication Critical patent/EP3729987A1/en
Publication of EP3729987A4 publication Critical patent/EP3729987A4/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/41Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • A41D1/02Jackets
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • A41D1/06Trousers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02Linings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/12Hygroscopic; Water retaining
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/225Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/52Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads thermal insulating, e.g. heating or cooling
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/02Underwear
    • D10B2501/021Hosiery; Panti-hose

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a lined garment.
  • Cooling function is important for spring and summer garments, in particular, suits consisting of a jacket and pants, because they cannot sometimes be removed when a hot sensation occurs.
  • coolness is improved by reducing the thickness of the outer material to the greatest extent possible, making the lining mesh-like, and adopting a specification in which the lining is not attached.
  • the outer material is too thin and becomes transparent or easily torn, and by a mesh as the lining, the air content rather increases, which brings about a heat insulating effect, and by omitting a lining, there is a problem in that contact heat conductivity and sweat treatment such as moisture/water absorption (hereinafter also referred to as heat and moisture transfer properties) are poor, whereby physiological coolness is reduced.
  • Patent Literature 1 discloses a lining fabric using a false twist untwisted yarn composed of polyester-based fibers on one of the warp and the weft yarns, and a side-by-side type crimp yarn having a crimp rate of 40% or more after boiling water treatment composed of polyester-based fibers on the other.
  • adhesion to the skin has been improved by imparting a feeling of coolness and slipperiness due to the airy feeling
  • since the fabric is composed of polyester-based fibers no consideration is given to heat and moisture transfer properties and air content of the lining, whereby there is a problem regarding the coolness.
  • Patent Literature 2 discloses a lining fabric using a false twist yarn of cellulose long fibers as the warp and polyester long fibers as the weft.
  • Patent Literature 3 discloses a jacket in which a mesh or net-like storage part is arranged in the front body and the back body of a summer jacket, which when folded and stored, is stored in a storage part so as to maintain the shape thereof during carrying.
  • Patent Literature 4 discloses a mesh lining as a lining of the upper and lower parts of a summer suit, and discloses a sewing method in which, regarding the jacket, the mesh lining is used in the underarm area of the front back, the underarm area of the back, and the upper region of the back of the lower sleeve, wherein the lining of the textile is sewn at the boundaries to produce a jacket that can be easily worn without impairing the smooth feeling of the sleeves.
  • the mesh lining and jacket disclosed in Patent Literature 4 in both mesh and fabric linings, consideration is given to neither the relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material nor the heat and moisture transfer properties of the lining, whereby coolness of the jacket is not sufficiently developed.
  • Patent Literature 4 discloses that, for the pants, the above mesh lining and fabric lining are sewn together as a knee back without impairing the smooth feeling of the knee, consideration is given to neither the relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material nor the heat and moisture transfer properties of the lining, whereby coolness of the pants is not sufficiently developed.
  • Patent Literature 5 discloses pants in which a mesh or net-like knee lining material is placed on the front body of summer pants to produce a storage part, and when the pants are folded and stored, they are stored in the storage part so as to maintain the shape thereof during carrying.
  • consideration is given to neither the relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material nor the heat and moisture transfer properties of the lining, whereby coolness of the jacket is not sufficiently developed.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a lined garment having enhanced thermophysiological and sensory coolness by optimizing the heat and moisture transfer properties of the lining of particularly summer garments such as jackets and pants, and further considering the placement method of the lining.
  • a lined garment having improved cooling performance both thermophysiologically and organoleptically can be provided by satisfying the following requirements. Specifically, it was clarified that it is important to select a lining material having a high heat conductance and moisture absorbency as the lining material of the garment most inner layer.
  • the present invention is as follows.
  • the lined garment according to the present invention can enhance both thermophysiological and sensory coolness as a result of appropriate placement of the lining.
  • the garment of the present embodiment is characterized by the physical properties and placement method of the lining to be used.
  • the garment of the present embodiment is a lined garment in which a lining having a contact coolness value Qmax of 120 W/m 2 ⁇ °C or more and a moisture absorbency M of 6.0% or more is affixed to the outer material.
  • a lining having a contact coolness value Qmax of 120 W/m 2 ⁇ °C or more and a moisture absorbency M of 6.0% or more is affixed to the outer material.
  • such a lining is also referred to as the 'specific lining.
  • the contact coolness value Qmax of the lining is 120 W/m 2 ⁇ °C or more, preferably 140 W/m 2 ⁇ °C or more, and more preferably 160 W/m 2 ⁇ °C or more.
  • a material with high hygroscopicity is selected for the lining in order to absorb perspiration on the skin and suppress stuffiness, and the moisture absorbency M is 6.0% or more, preferably 8.0% or more, and more preferably 10% or more.
  • the specific lining is preferably arranged at a position corresponding to at least an inner arm and an upper arm near the artery, or a wrist and a forearm near the arteriovenous anastomosis. If a short-sleeved shirt is worn under the jacket, it is especially preferable that the specific lining be positioned on the forearm that contacts the skin.
  • the sleeve is the part that covers the upper limbs, has a large surface area and high heat dissipation, and contributes greatly to coolness.
  • the specific lining is preferably arranged in 30% or more of the surface area of the sleeve of the outer material, more preferably 40% or more, further preferably 60% or more, and yet further preferably 90%.
  • a lining other than the "specific lining” can be used in other portions, for example, the "other sleeve lining" of FIGS. 6 and 7 .
  • the specific lining can be arranged on a part or the entirety of the body part, and a full back specification (in which the lining is arranged in nearly the entire surface of the front body, the side body, the back body, and the sleeve) is preferable.
  • the lining of the jacket of the present embodiment preferably occupies 30% of the area of the back body (also referred to as the back part) of the outer material, more preferably 40% or more, further preferably 60% or more, and yet further preferably 90% or more.
  • the full back specification (area ratio of 90% or more) shown in FIG. 1
  • the unlined specification at the back part shown in FIG. 2-1 and FIG. 2-2 the half back specification shown in FIG. 3
  • the unlined single-breasted specification at the back part shown in FIG. 4 may be used, and it is preferable that the lining be arranged in 30% or more of the area of the back body of the outer material.
  • the specification in which the lining is arranged in the entire back part has the advantage that piping work centering on the back can be omitted.
  • lining of the back body it is preferable that lining be used in 30% or more of the area of the outer material of the back body from the shoulder portion close to the torso to the collar portion.
  • the lining is arranged in the front body and the side body as well, there are advantages of preventing tactile sensation of the seam in the back surface of the outer material and an increase in hygroscopicity.
  • the lining in a men's jackets, which is conventionally buttoned as a courtesy, it is necessary that the lining have a moisture treatment function in a closed clothing environment.
  • the lining arranged in the side part (side body) and the front part (front body) is not particularly limited and may be the same as or different from the back part (back body).
  • the specific lining be arranged in the portion from the groin to the knees of the leg. Because the lower limbs, in particular the groin and the upper front part of the thigh, have high heat dissipation efficiency, it is also thermophysiologically optimal to arrange the specific lining in this portion.
  • the specific lining be arranged in 20% or more of the surface area of the outer material, more preferably 30% or more, and it is preferable that the specific lining be arranged in 40% or more of the surface area of the front body, more preferably 50% or more.
  • the placement of the specific lining may be a full back specification, a front contact specification, or a back contact specification, but the full back specification is more preferable because it can prevent tactile sensation of the outer material and friction with the seam of the outer material, which is more preferable because it is possible to treat perspiration on the entirety of the lower leg.
  • the front contact specification be used.
  • the reason for this is that in the case of the front contact specification, the skin and the lining come into contact with each other during walking, whereby heat exchange efficiency is increased.
  • the length of the lining is preferably a length below the knee from the viewpoint of improving the knee operability. As long as the lining extends below the knee, the thigh portion can be effectively contacted even during movements such as walking and sitting.
  • the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining in the outermost layer of garment is 0.1 kPa ⁇ s/m or less, and the ventilation resistance RS of the outer material is higher than the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining, in other words, the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining is lower than (smaller than) the ventilation resistance RS of the outer material, i.e., it is preferable that RL ⁇ RS.
  • the ventilation resistance RL of the lining is more preferably 0.05 kPa ⁇ s/m or less.
  • the ventilation resistance RL of the lining exceeds 0.1 kPa ⁇ s/m, the water vapor transfer properties during long-duration wearing is poor, and a humid feeling cannot be suppressed only by the moisture absorbency of the material. Further, when the ventilation resistance RL of the lining is higher than the ventilation resistance RS of the surface, water vapor in the innermost layer is not effectively discharged, whereby water vapor tends to remain. Thus, it is preferable that RL be 0.1 kPa ⁇ s/m or less and RL ⁇ RS be satisfied.
  • the constituent yarns may be combined and twisting or crimping may be imparted to the yarn, and in the case of short fibers, the twist coefficient may be increased.
  • the void index V which takes into account the air content of the lining i.e., the void index V which is obtained from the product of the void area and thickness calculated from the two-dimensional void ratio, be 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less.
  • the porosity of a fabric is generally calculated in two dimensions, such as by calculation from the cover factor (fiber occupancy rate), but the present inventors have made it clear that the void index V taking the air content into consideration is important, and that the void area can be captured three-dimensionally, i.e., from the product of the two-dimensional gap ratio and the thickness.
  • the void index V is preferably 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less during long-duration wearing in order to achieve thermal conductivity and water vapor transferability.
  • the void index V exceeds 3.0, even if water vapor transferability is achieved, the air content may be high, whereby the heat insulating effect may be enhanced.
  • the void index is less than 1.0, the insulating effect may be reduced due to the low air content, but the water vapor transferability may not be achieved.
  • the thickness (multiplied by the void rate, the void index) be considered. If the yarns are simply converged in order to reduce the ventilation resistance, the increase in thickness due to the convergence of the yarns also increases the amount of voids, and thus, it is necessary that increases in thickness be limited to the necessary minimum, and at the same time, it is desirable to reduce the air content of the constituent yarns themselves.
  • the thickness of the lining In order to reduce the void index V, it is preferable to reduce the thickness of the lining, for that purpose, in addition to the yarn manufacturing technique, it is more preferable to reduce the thickness by 10% to 20% using a cold calender or a hot calender in combination in the final finishing step of lining. As a result, the contact coolness and thermal conductivity can be enhanced not only by the effect of reducing the quantity of voids but also as a result of smoothing.
  • short fibers having a relatively long fiber length the single fiber fineness of which is preferably 2 dtex or less, the fiber length of which is preferably 25 mm or more, more preferably 38 mm or more.
  • the thickness of the short fibers is preferably 40 to 60 (cotton number), more preferably 50 to 60 (cotton number).
  • the number of twists is preferably 20 twists/inch to 30 twists/inch in view of the rigidity and texture of the yarns.
  • the twist coefficient Ks calculated by the following formula:
  • fibers having a yarn fineness of 30 dtex or more and 130 dtex or less When long fibers are used as the constituent fibers of the lining, it is preferable to select fibers having a yarn fineness of 30 dtex or more and 130 dtex or less. By setting the thickness to 30 dtex or more and 130 dtex or less, it is possible to maintain a balance between physical properties such as friction resistance and tearing, and texture properties such as softness. When the fineness is less than 30 dtex, friction and tear strength are poor, and when it exceeds 130 dtex, the texture becomes rigid.
  • circles and ellipses are preferable to shapes with angles such as triangles and crosses from the viewpoint of reducing friction between the skin and the outer material.
  • the single yarn fineness is preferably 4 dtex or less because the finer the yarn, the softer the fabric.
  • the shape of the constituent yarns may be a single material, a prepared composite of two or more types of materials, a composite on the machine, or an alternating composite.
  • a raw yarn and a twisted yarn having a high smoothness and a high packing degree are preferable to a false twisted yarn and an air entangled yarn having a low surface smoothness. Materials with high intra-fiber water content are preferable because of their high thermal conductance.
  • Examples of materials constituting the lining include, among cellulosic fibers, natural fibers such as cotton and hemp, regenerated cellulose fibers such as viscose rayon, copper ammonium rayon (also referred to as cuprammonium rayon, Cupra, BembergTM), purified cellulose, acetate of semi-synthetic fibers, as well as synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester. If a metallic oxide having high heat conductance is kneaded in the polymer, heat conduction can be further increased.
  • the hydrophobic group in the polymer may be modified with a hydrophilic group exhibiting hygroscopicity.
  • the mixing ratio of the cellulosic fiber is preferably 30% or more relative to the weight of the lining, more preferably 40% or more, and further preferably 50% or more, which enhances hygroscopicity.
  • the cellulosic fiber content is less than 30%, hygroscopicity is insufficient, whereby a humid feeling is likely to occur.
  • Cellulosic fibers are more preferable than synthetic fibers because they are less likely to cause shininess, glare, or heat fusion after calendering step, and among these, it is preferable that regenerated cellulosic fibers be contained in an amount of 30% by weight or more, more preferably 40% by weight or more. If the regenerated cellulose fiber is a long fiber yarn, the air content of the yarn can be suppressed, which is more preferable.
  • the use of long fibers as the constituent yarn is more preferable because the air content in the yarn is relatively smaller than that of short fibers.
  • a false-twisted yarn of synthetic fibers can be used, in this case, it is preferable to select a low crimped yarn in which the total fineness of the yarn is 130 dtex or less, more preferably 84 dtex or less, further preferably 56 dtex or less, and the false twist number, heater temperature, and yarn speed are adjusted so as not to be bulky, and the crimp elongation (based on JIS-L-1090 synthetic fiber bulky finished yarn evaluation method, 5.7 stretching method, method B) is 20% or less.
  • the crimp elongation is most preferably 5% to 10%.
  • the false-twisted yarn it is preferable that a fused drawn false-twisted yarn having a portion in which the twisted state is maintained during twisting in the longitudinal direction of the yarn (a so-called "not untwisted portion"), and an untwisted portion in which the untwisting action is concentrated and formed in the same direction as the not untwisted portion not be used.
  • the warp of the fabric constituting the lining is fixed in the longitudinal direction in the case of the sleeve of a jacket, and in substantially the height direction in the case of the body part of a jacket or pants.
  • a twisted yarn is preferable because the air content can be suppressed by eliminating the air in the yarn.
  • a twisted yarn made of a single material or a twisted yarn obtained by twisting two or more types of yarns may be used, and it is preferable that at least one of the warp and the weft constituting the lining be a twisted yarn, and more preferably both are twisted yarns.
  • the twist coefficient Ks calculated from the following formula:
  • the lining used in the garment of the present embodiment has a basis weight of preferably 50 g/m 2 or more, more preferably 60 g/m 2 or more, and further preferably 62 g/m 2 or more. When the basis weight is less than 50 g/m 2 , physical properties such as strength may be reduced.
  • the basis weight of the garment of the present embodiment is preferably 100 g/m 2 or less, more preferably 85 g/m 2 or less, and further preferably 80 g/m 2 or less. When the basis weight exceeds 100 g/m 2 , the lining may become excessively thick.
  • the organization of the lining used in the garment of the present embodiment is not particularly limited and can be produced using a conventional loom.
  • Examples of the organization of the fabric include flat fabrics, twill fabrics, satin fabrics, and modified organizations thereof.
  • Post-weaving post-treatment should be carried out in the order of scouring, presetting, dyeing, and finishing, but post-treatment is not limited thereto.
  • scouring a general open-soaper type open-cloth continuous scouring machine is preferably used.
  • the temperature at the time of scouring may be appropriately selected in the range of 40 °C to 90 °C, and the drying temperature may be appropriately selected in the range of 100 °C to 195 °C.
  • the presetting may be appropriately selected in the range of 150 °C to 195 °C with a pin tenter-type processor.
  • the setting width may be appropriately selected as appropriate from the width after scouring and drying.
  • Dyeing may be carried out by a jet dyeing method, a beam dyeing method, a Jigger dyeing method, a spreading continuous cold pad batch dyeing method, a pad steam dyeing method, or a combination of the above dyeing methods.
  • a spun yarn may be used to reduce the dyeing process.
  • the finishing process is preferably performed in a spread state, and when cellulosic fibers are used, non-formalin resin processing may be performed for the purpose of preventing shrinkage and wrinkling.
  • a softening agent, a water repellent, or an anti-slip agent may be appropriately added.
  • the calendering mentioned above is preferably used in order to reduce the thickness, and to increase smoothness and contact coolness, and in the case of hot calendering, the effect of improving smoothness and contact coolness is further enhanced.
  • the pressure of the calendaring is preferably 0.1 MPa to 0.5 MPa and more preferably 0.2 MPa to 0.3 MPa.
  • the temperature of the calendaring is preferably 80 °C to 115 °C and more preferably 90 °C to 100 °C.
  • the lining of the garment of the present embodiment is required to be fixed to at least a part of the outer material, and all corners of the lining may be fixed to the outer material.
  • the method of affixing the lining to the outer material is not limited to sewing, and adhesive bonding may be used.
  • the lining is sewn with a lockstitch sewing machine, it is preferable to stitch at a pitch of 4 to 5 needles/cm from the aspect of sewing location strength retention and the prevention of sink marks. This sewing method will be referred to as method A.
  • auxiliary materials such as interlining may be appropriately used in the front body, collar, cuffs, and sides.
  • the garment of the present embodiment is pants
  • front contact or back contact it is preferable that the seam margin between the outer material and the lining be covered with the lining, which prevents the seam between the outer material and the lining from contacting and rubbing skin, whereby the frequency of discomfort is decreased.
  • the pants can be sewn so that the front side of the lining is the inner most layer by a method in which the outer material is turned inside out, both sides thereof are sewn, the lining is turned to the outside, and thereafter, sewn to the seam margin, which was sewn by turning the outer material inside out, so as to overlap outside of the seam of the outer material, and finally aligning the three layers and finally reversing (this sewing method will be referred to as method B).
  • the material and physical form, such as short fibers or long fibers, of the outer material of the garment of the present embodiment is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to satisfy the relative relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material described above. It is preferable that a material having a relatively high hygroscopicity, for example, animal fibers such as wool or silk, cellulose fibers, or semi-synthetic fibers be mixed with acetate fibers. Examples of synthetic fibers include polyamide-based fibers and polyester-based fibers having modified hygroscopicity, and these may be mixed together or may be mixed with fibers having high hygroscopicity.
  • the contact coolness value Qmax of the back surface of the outer material is high, in particular since the coolness improvement effect is obtained in portions where the lining is not attached.
  • the Qmax of the back surface of the outer material is preferably 120 W/m 2 ⁇ °C or more, more preferably 140 W/m 2 ⁇ °C or more, and further preferably 150 W/m 2 ⁇ °C or more.
  • examples of the method for increasing the contact coolness value Qmax of the back surface of the outer material include calendering the back surface of the outer material. In this case, it is preferable to carry out calendering only on the back surface from the viewpoint of aesthetics.
  • the organization of the outer material of a jacket of the present embodiment is not limited to weaving and knitting, but it is preferable to satisfy the relative relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material describe above, and as a result, it is possible to provide a jacket with higher coolness when the lining is attached than when the lining is not attached.
  • the fabrics (outer material and lining) were stored all day and night in a temperature-controlled room maintained at 20 °C ⁇ 65% RH, and thereafter measured in the same temperature-controlled room.
  • Warp/Weft Density number of strands per inch
  • Density meter Basis Weight g/m 2
  • Precision Electronic Balance Thickness Measured with a thickness meter in accordance with the JIS L 1096 standard, for example, a Peacock constant pressure thickness meter FFA10, contact pressure: 2.4 N/cm 2
  • Ventilation Resistance R (Lining Ventilation Resistance RL, Outer Material Ventilation Resistance RS)
  • the void index V was calculated by multiplying the porosity and the thickness.
  • the area occupancy ratio of the back fabric was calculated from the area ratio of the pattern paper of the front fabric and the pattern paper of the back fabric.
  • the above-mentioned pattern paper can be produced by disassembling the product to make the fabric flat and scanning with a digitizer.
  • Sensory evaluation was carried out by the subject by inserting both arms into the sleeves, resting for five minutes, repeatedly extending both arms forward for five repetitions (initial coolness evaluation), and thereafter resting for five minutes (sustained coolness evaluation). Thereafter, the jacket was removed, and the subject moved on to the subsequent jacket wearing evaluation.
  • the evaluation criteria for initial coolness evaluation (initial coolness) and sustained coolness evaluation (sustained coolness) are shown below.
  • a jacket having high coolness in both of these points is considered to be a lined jacket having both a high thermophysiological coolness and high sensory coolness.
  • Subjects repeated squatting for five repetitions followed by sitting and standing for five repetitions. Thereafter, subjects put on 100% cotton pants and rested for five minutes. Subjects then moved to the subsequent pants wearing evaluation.
  • Evaluation was carried out while wearing, on the lower half of the body, 100% cotton briefs and cotton/polyester blended sock under the pants, and on the upper half of the body, an undershirt composed of 60% cotton, 20% cupra, and 20% polyester milling cutter (YG-X manufactured by Gunze), and a short-sleeved shirt composed of a mixed yarn of 65% cotton and 35% polyester. All subjects wore no tie and did not button the first button of the shirt.
  • the subjects were made to walk on a treadmill for 10 minutes at 5 km/h after sitting for 30 minutes while wearing a pair of prototype pants, and were then made to sit at rest for 10 minutes after finishing.
  • the average skin temperature was obtained every 10 seconds from the start of rest to the end of rest after walking.
  • the skin temperature was obtained by averaging the data of 5 persons on the time axis and then obtaining the section average value from the start to the end of the measurement.
  • the average skin temperature was obtained by attaching skin temperature sensors (LT-2N-12 manufactured by Gram Co.) to the right chest, upper arm, thigh and lower leg of the subject according to the four-point Ramanasan Method.
  • a spun yarn was obtained using a 2/72 warp 2/72 weft top-dyed wool/polyester yarn, and a plain weave outer material X having a finishing density of 64 warp/inch, 55 weft/inch, and a ventilation resistance of 0.083 kPa ⁇ s/m was prepared.
  • the contact coolness of the back surface of the outer material was 139 W/m 2 ⁇ °C.
  • a 2/60 warp 2/60 weft wool spun yarn was obtained, and after conventional dyeing processing, a plain weave outer material Y having a finishing density of 62 warp/inch, 48 weft/inch, and a ventilation resistance of 0.100 kPa ⁇ s/m was prepared.
  • the contact coolness of the back surface of the outer material was 148 W/m 2 ⁇ °C.
  • a 2/60 warp 2/60 weft wool spun yarn was obtained, and after a conventional dyeing processing, single-sided calendering was performed on only the back surface in the finishing process using the plain weave outer material Y having a finishing density of 62 warp/inch and 48 weft/inch.
  • the ventilation resistance of this outer material was 0.110 kPa ⁇ s/m, and the contact coolness value Qmax of the back surface was 158 W/m 2 ⁇ °C.
  • a 56 dtex/45f cupra ammonium rayon (Bemberg manufactured by Asahi Kasei) was twisted twice in the S direction at a treatment temperature of 85 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting to obtain an S-twisted yarn having a number of TM twists of 1000 twists/m.
  • an 84 dtex/45f Bemberg yarn twisted in the S direction and the same twisted in the Z direction were twisted twice at a treatment temperature of 85 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting to obtain an S-twisted yarn and a Z-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1825 twists/m.
  • the yarns were supplied to an air jet loom so that the former S-twisted yarn was arranged in the warp and the S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn of the latter were alternately arranged in the weft to obtain a flat fabric, and after being subjected to dyeing process 1 below, lining 1 was obtained.
  • the thickness of the lining changed by 4% from 0.104 mm to 0.100 mm before and after calendering.
  • a 56 dtex/24f polyester twisted in the S direction was subjected to twist setting at a treatment temperature of 80 °C and a treatment time of 30 minutes to obtain an S-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 600 twists/m.
  • an 84 dtex/45f Viscose rayon twisted in the S direction and the same twisted in the Z direction subjected to twist setting at a treatment temperature of 80 °C and a treatment time of 40 minutes to obtain an S-twisted yarn and a Z-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1825 twists/m.
  • the yarns were supplied to an air jet loom so that the former S-twisted yarn was arranged in the warp and the S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn of the latter were alternately arranged in the weft to obtain a flat fabric, and after being subjected to dyeing process 3 below, lining 3 was obtained.
  • the thickness of the lining changed by 9% from 0.154 mm to 0.140 mm before and after calendering.
  • a 84 dtex/45f cupra ammonium rayon (BembergTM manufactured by Asahi Kasei) twisted in the S direction was subjected to twist setting at a treatment temperature of 70 °C and a treatment time of 40 minutes to obtain an S-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 600 twists/m.
  • an 84 dtex/45f BembergTM yarn twisted in the S direction and the same twisted in the Z direction were subjected to twist setting at a treatment temperature of 70 °C and a processing time of 40 minutes to obtain an S-twisted yarn and a Z-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 600 twists/m.
  • the yarns were supplied to an air jet loom so that the former S-twisted yarn was arranged in the warp and the S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn of the latter were alternately arranged in the weft to obtain a flat fabric, and after being subjected to dyeing process 2 described above, lining 4 was obtained.
  • the thickness of the lining changed by 9% from 0.154 mm to 0.140 mm before and after calendering.
  • the thickness of the lining changed by 8% from 0.176 mm to 0.160 mm before and after calendering.
  • a flat fabric was obtained with a water jet loom using 100 dtex/36f polyester fused drawn false twisted yarn for both the warp and weft, and this fabric was then subjected to dyeing process 4 below to obtain lining 6.
  • a flat fabric was obtained with a water jet loom using a 56 dtex/36f polyester as the warp and an 84 dtex/36f polyester as the weft, and this fabric was subjected to dyeing process 4 described above to obtain lining 7.
  • moisture absorbency M was 6.0% or more
  • ventilation resistance value RL was 0.045 kPa ⁇ s/m or less, which is lower than the ventilation resistance value RS of the outer materials X and Y
  • contact coolness value Qmax was 120 W/m 2 ⁇ °C or more.
  • the ventilation resistance value RL was not 0.1 kPa ⁇ s/m or less, and the ventilation resistance value RL was higher than the ventilation resistance values RS of outer materials X and Y, and the contact coolness value Qmax was the highest at 185 W/m 2 ⁇ °C.
  • the ventilation resistance value RL was 0.1 kPa ⁇ s/m or less, which was lower than the ventilation resistance value RS of the outer material Y, and the contact coolness value Qmax was 120 W/m 2 ⁇ °C or more.
  • the contact coolness value Qmax were less than 120 W/m 2 ⁇ °C, and the moisture absorbency M was less than 6.0%.
  • Jackets were sewn in accordance with JIS standard size A6 using outer material X and outer material Y and linings 1 to 7. During sewing of the lining, sewing was carried out so that the the warp direction on the loom was warp direction of the body.
  • Example 13 outer material Y was used, and in Examples 1 to 12 and 14 to 26, and in Comparative Examples 1 to 10, outer material X was used.
  • Example 26 regarding the side body and the front body, the same lining as the back part was arranged so that, in the full back specification, the outer material area ratio was 95%, in the unlined specification at the back part, the outer material area ratio was 40%, and in the half back specification, the outer material area ratio was 30%.
  • the outer material surface area in the side body and the front body correspond to the surface areas of the regions indicated by reference signs 2 and 3 in FIG. 1 .
  • the side body and the front body were unlined.
  • a jacket with no lining was prepared as Comparative Example 7. Note that the sewing state between the outer material and the lining at the time of sewing was judged in accordance with the following evaluation criteria.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the full back specification shown in FIG. 1 and lining 1 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5 .
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the unlined specification shown in FIG. 2-1 and lining 1 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5 .
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) in the body part and lining 1 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5 .
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) in the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the upper arms shown in FIG. 6 and lining 2 for the forearm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner and outer sleeves at the lower part of elbow, the area ratio of the upper arm was 60%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 35%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the full back specification shown in FIG. 1 and, for the sleeves, lining 1 in the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 and lining 2 in the forearm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner and outer sleeves at the upper elbow part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 30%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the half back specification shown in FIG. 3 , and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 and a lining 2 for the forearm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner and outer sleeves at the upper elbow part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 30%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 on the inner arm shown in FIG. 5 and lining 2 on the outer arm.
  • the area ratio of the inner arm was 40% and the area ratio of the outer arm was 55%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 on the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 and lining 2 on the forearm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the upper elbow part both, the area ratio of the upper arm was 30%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using the lining 4 for the body part with the unlined specification shown in FIG. 2-2 and lining 2 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5 .
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the unlined specification shown in FIG. 2-1 and lining 2 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5 .
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 3 for the body part with the unlined specification shown in FIG. 2-1 and lining 1 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5 .
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 4 for the body part with the unlined specification shown in FIG. 2-1 and lining 3 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5 .
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 5 for the body part with the full back specification shown in FIG. 1 and lining 5 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5 .
  • the jacket was produced using outer material Y.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 6 for the upper arm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the upper elbow part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 35%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 60%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the full back specification shown in FIG. 1 , and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 6 for the upper arm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 65%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using a lining 1 for the body part with the half back specification shown in FIG. 3 , and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 , and lining 6 for the upper arm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 65%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the inner arm shown in FIG. 5 and the lining 6 for the outer arm.
  • the area ratio of the inner arm was 40% and the area ratio of the outer arm was 55%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 6 for the upper arm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 65% and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the full back specification shown in FIG. 1 , and for the sleeves, lining 2 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 6 for the upper arm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 65% and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the half back specification shown in FIG. 3 , and for the sleeves, lining 2 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 6 for the upper arm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 65%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 2 for the inner arm shown in FIG. 5 and lining 6 for the outer arm.
  • the area ratio of the inner arm was 40% and the area ratio of the outer arm was 55%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 and lining 6 for the forearm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 70%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 25%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the outer arm shown in FIG. 5 and lining 6 for the inner arm.
  • the area ratio of the inner arm was 35% and the area ratio of the outer arm was 60%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 2 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 6 for the upper arm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 65% and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.
  • a jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 2 for the inner arm shown in FIG. 5 and lining 6 for the outer arm.
  • the area ratio of the inner arm was 35% and the area ratio of the outer arm was 60%.
  • a jacket was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 (lining 1), except that lining 6 was arranged in the side part (side body) and the front part (front side).
  • a jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 6 needles/cm using lining 6 for the body part with the full back specification shown in FIG. 1 and lining 6 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5 .
  • a jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 6 needles/cm using lining 7 for the body part with the unlined specification shown in FIG. 2-1 and lining 7 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5 .
  • a jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 6 needles/cm using no lining (unbacked) for the body part and lining 6 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5 .
  • a jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 3 needles/cm using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 7 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 and lining 6 for the forearm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 60% and the area ratio of the forearm was 35%.
  • a jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 3 needles/cm using lining 7 for the body part with the full back specification shown in FIG. 1 , and for the sleeves, lining 7 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 and lining 6 for the forearm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the upper elbow part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 30%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.
  • a jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 3 needles/cm using lining 7 for the body part with the half back specification shown in FIG. 3 , and for the sleeves, lining 7 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 and lining 6 for the forearm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow upper part both, the area ratio of the upper arm was 30% and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.
  • a jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 3 needles/cm using lining 2 for the body part with the half back specification shown in FIG. 3 , and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 7 for the upper arm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 75% and the area ratio of the forearm was 20%.
  • a jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 3 needles/cm using lining 2 for the body part with the half back specification shown in FIG. 3 , and for the sleeves, lining 2 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 7 for the upper arm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 75% and the area ratio of the forearm was 20%.
  • a jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 3 needles/cm using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 2 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 7 for the upper arm.
  • the upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 75% and the area ratio of the forearm was 20%.
  • Pants were sewn in accordance with JIS standard size A6 using outer material X, outer material Y, outer material Z, and each type of lining. At the time of lining sewing, sewing was performed so that the warp direction on the loom becomes the body part warp direction.
  • the pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 1 20 cm below the KL (knee line) with a front contact specification.
  • the lining area was 42% as compared to the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared to the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • the pants were sewn with the full back specification.
  • the lining area was 90% as compared to the surface area of the outer material, and there were no defects in the followability of the pants.
  • the pants were sewn by method A and method B with the front contact specification 15 cm below the KL (short front).
  • the lining area was 36% as compared with the surface area of the outer material of the outer material and 72% as compared with the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • Pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 3 20 cm below the KL (knee line) with the front contact specification.
  • the lining area was 42% as compared with the surface area of the outer material of the outer material and 84% as compared with the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • a 56 dtex/45f cupra ammonium rayon (BembergTM manufactured by Asahi Kasei) was twisted twice in the S direction at a treatment temperature of 70 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting to obtain an S-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1000 twists/m.
  • an 84 dtex/45f BembergTM yarn twisted in the S direction and the same twisted in the Z direction were twisted twice at a treatment temperature of 70 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting twice to obtain an S-twisted yarn and a Z-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1825 twists/m.
  • the yarns were supplied to an air jet loom so that the former S-twisted yarn was arranged in the warp and the S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn of the latter were alternately arranged in the weft to obtain a flat fabric, and after being subjected to dyeing process 1 described above, lining 8 was obtained.
  • the thickness of the lining changed by 10% from 0.146 mm to 0.133 before and after calendering.
  • Lining 8 had a moisture absorbency M of 6.0% or more, a ventilation resistance value RL of 0.1 kPa ⁇ s/m or less, which was lower than the ventilation resistance value RS of the outer materials X and Y, and a contact coolness value Qmax of 120 W/m 2 ⁇ °C or more, but the void index V exceeded 3.0.
  • Pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 8 20 cm below the KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal length).
  • the lining area was 42% as compared with the surface area of the outer material of the outer material and 84% as compared with the front body outer material, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • Pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 4 20 cm below the KL (knee line) the front contact specification (front normal length).
  • the lining area was 42% as compared with the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared with the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • a 56 dtex/45f cupra ammonium rayon (BembergTM manufactured by Asahi Kasei) was twisted twice in the S direction at a treatment temperature of 85 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting to obtain an S-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1000 twists/m.
  • an 84 dtex/45f BembergTM yarn twisted in the S direction and the same twisted in the Z direction were twisted twice at a treatment temperature of 85 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting twice to obtain an S-twisted yarn and a Z-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1825 twists/m.
  • the yarns were supplied to an air jet loom so that the former S-twisted yarn was arranged in the warp and the S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn of the latter were alternately arranged in the weft to obtain a flat fabric, and after being subjected to dyeing process 3 described above, lining 9 was obtained.
  • the thickness of the lining changed by 8% from 0.147 mm to 0.135 mm before and after calendering.
  • Lining 9 had a moisture absorbency M of 6.0% or more, a ventilation resistance value RL of 0.1 kPa ⁇ s/m or less, which was lower than the ventilation resistance value RS of the outer materials X and Y, a contact coolness value Qmax of 120 W/m 2 ⁇ °C or more, and a void index V of 2.97.
  • Pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 9 20 cm below the KL (knee line) with the font contact specification (front normal length.
  • the lining area was 42% as compared with the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared with the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • a 56 dtex/45f cupra ammonium rayon (BembergTM manufactured by Asahi Kasei) was twisted twice in the S direction at a treatment temperature of 70 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting to obtain an S-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1000 twists/m.
  • an 84 dtex/45f BembergTM yarn twisted in the S direction and the same twisted in the Z direction were twisted twice at a treatment temperature of 70 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting twice to obtain an S-twisted yarn and a Z-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1825 twists/m.
  • the yarns were supplied to an air jet loom so that the former S-twisted yarn was arranged in the warp and the S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn of the latter were alternately arranged in the weft to obtain a flat fabric, and after being subjected to dyeing process 3 described above, lining 10 was obtained.
  • the thickness of the lining changed by 7% from 0.147 mm to 0.137 mm before and after calendering.
  • Lining 10 had a moisture absorbency M of 6.0% or more, a ventilation resistance value RL of 0.1 kPa ⁇ s/m or less, lower than the ventilation resistance value RS of the outer materials X and Y, and a contact coolness value Qmax of 120 W/m 2 ⁇ °C or more, but the void index V exceeded 3.0.
  • Pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 10 20 cm below the KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal length).
  • the lining area was 42% as compared with the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared with the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 5 20 cm below the KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal length).
  • the lining area was 42% as compared with the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared with the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 5 20 cm below the KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal length).
  • the lining area was 42% as compared with the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared with the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • Pants were sewn by method A and a conventional method using lining 7 20 cm below KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal).
  • the lining area was 42% as compared to the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared to the outer material front body, and there were puckering defects in the followability of the pants.
  • Pants were sewn by method A and by a conventional method using lining 5 20 cm below KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal length).
  • the lining area was 42% as compared to the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared to the outer material front body.
  • Unlined pants were sewn using the outer material X.
  • the thickness of the lining changed by 4% from 0.172 mm to 0.165 mm.
  • Lining 11 had a moisture absorbency M 6.0% or more, a ventilation resistance value RL of more than 0.1 kPa ⁇ s/m, which was higher than the ventilation resistance value RS of the outer materials X and Y, and a contact coolness value Qmax 120 W/m 2 ⁇ °C or more, but the void index V exceeded 3.0.
  • Pants were sewn by method A and a conventional method using lining 11 20 cm below KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal length).
  • the lining area was 42% as compared to the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared to the outer material front body.
  • there puckering defects in the followability of the pants were not limited.
  • the lined garment of the present invention can achieve enhanced material and physical properties of the lining, but also thermophysiological and sensory coolness through not only appropriate selection the lining but also the placement method of the lining.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Thermal Sciences (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)

Abstract

Provided is a lined garment that optimizes the heat and moisture transfer properties of the lining of a garment for summer and that takes into consideration the placement of the lining so as to increase cooling properties from both a thermal physiology and sensory perspective, examples of such lined garment including a jacket and pants. This lined garment is characterized in that, at locations corresponding to at least an inner arm portion and an upper arm portion, a forearm portion, or portions from the inguinal areas of the legs to the knees, the lining, which is a fabric with a cold-sensation contact value Qmax of 120 W/m2·°C and a moisture absorption ratio M of at least 6.0%, is fixed to an outer material. The basis weight of the lining is preferably at least 62 g/m2.

Description

    FIELD
  • The present invention relates to a lined garment.
  • BACKGROUND
  • Cooling function is important for spring and summer garments, in particular, suits consisting of a jacket and pants, because they cannot sometimes be removed when a hot sensation occurs. Thus, coolness is improved by reducing the thickness of the outer material to the greatest extent possible, making the lining mesh-like, and adopting a specification in which the lining is not attached. However, there is a problem that the outer material is too thin and becomes transparent or easily torn, and by a mesh as the lining, the air content rather increases, which brings about a heat insulating effect, and by omitting a lining, there is a problem in that contact heat conductivity and sweat treatment such as moisture/water absorption (hereinafter also referred to as heat and moisture transfer properties) are poor, whereby physiological coolness is reduced.
  • Patent Literature 1 below discloses a lining fabric using a false twist untwisted yarn composed of polyester-based fibers on one of the warp and the weft yarns, and a side-by-side type crimp yarn having a crimp rate of 40% or more after boiling water treatment composed of polyester-based fibers on the other. However, in this fabric, though adhesion to the skin has been improved by imparting a feeling of coolness and slipperiness due to the airy feeling, since the fabric is composed of polyester-based fibers, no consideration is given to heat and moisture transfer properties and air content of the lining, whereby there is a problem regarding the coolness.
  • Further, Patent Literature 2 below discloses a lining fabric using a false twist yarn of cellulose long fibers as the warp and polyester long fibers as the weft.
  • Furthermore, Patent Literature 3 below discloses a jacket in which a mesh or net-like storage part is arranged in the front body and the back body of a summer jacket, which when folded and stored, is stored in a storage part so as to maintain the shape thereof during carrying.
  • However, in the lining fabric disclosed in Patent Literature 2 and the jacket disclosed in Patent Literature 3, consideration is given to neither the heat and moisture transfer properties of the lining, nor the relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the material, whereby coolness is not sufficiently developed.
  • Patent Literature 4 below discloses a mesh lining as a lining of the upper and lower parts of a summer suit, and discloses a sewing method in which, regarding the jacket, the mesh lining is used in the underarm area of the front back, the underarm area of the back, and the upper region of the back of the lower sleeve, wherein the lining of the textile is sewn at the boundaries to produce a jacket that can be easily worn without impairing the smooth feeling of the sleeves. However, regarding the mesh lining and jacket disclosed in Patent Literature 4, in both mesh and fabric linings, consideration is given to neither the relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material nor the heat and moisture transfer properties of the lining, whereby coolness of the jacket is not sufficiently developed.
  • Though Patent Literature 4 below discloses that, for the pants, the above mesh lining and fabric lining are sewn together as a knee back without impairing the smooth feeling of the knee, consideration is given to neither the relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material nor the heat and moisture transfer properties of the lining, whereby coolness of the pants is not sufficiently developed.
  • Patent Literature 5 below discloses pants in which a mesh or net-like knee lining material is placed on the front body of summer pants to produce a storage part, and when the pants are folded and stored, they are stored in the storage part so as to maintain the shape thereof during carrying. However, consideration is given to neither the relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material nor the heat and moisture transfer properties of the lining, whereby coolness of the jacket is not sufficiently developed.
  • [CITATION LIST] [PATENT LITERATURE]
    • [PTL 1] Japanese Patent No. 4584762
    • [PTL 2] WO 99/31309
    • [PTL 3] Utility Model Registration No. 3088492
    • [PTL 4] Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication (Kokai) No. 2007-231490
    • [PTL 5] Utility Model Registration No. 3102317
    SUMMARY [TECHNICAL PROBLEM]
  • In light of the prior art described above, the object of the present invention is to provide a lined garment having enhanced thermophysiological and sensory coolness by optimizing the heat and moisture transfer properties of the lining of particularly summer garments such as jackets and pants, and further considering the placement method of the lining.
  • [SOLUTION TO PROBLEM]
  • As a result of rigorous investigation and repeated experimentation to solve the above problems, the present inventors have discovered that a lined garment having improved cooling performance both thermophysiologically and organoleptically can be provided by satisfying the following requirements. Specifically, it was clarified that it is important to select a lining material having a high heat conductance and moisture absorbency as the lining material of the garment most inner layer.
  • Specifically, the present invention is as follows.
    1. [1] A lined garment, wherein a lining, which is a fabric having a contact coolness value Qmax of 120 W/m2·°C or more and a moisture absorbency of 6.0% or more, is affixed to an outer material in a position corresponding to at least an inner arm and upper arm portions, a forearm portion, or a portion from the groin to both knees.
    2. [2] The lined garment according to [1], wherein the basis weight of the lining is 62 g/m2 or more.
    3. [3] The lined garment according to [1] or [2], wherein the contact coolness value Qmax of a back of the outer material is 150 W/m2·°C or more.
    4. [4] The lined garment according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the garment is a jacket and the lining is affixed to an area of 30% or more of a sleeve of the outer material.
    5. [5] The lined garment according to [4], wherein the lining is affixed to an area of 30% or more of a back body of the outer material.
    6. [6] The lined garment according to [4] or [5], wherein a ventilation resistance value RL of the lining is 0.1 kPa·s/m or less and a ventilation resistance RS of the outer material is higher than the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining.
    7. [7] The lined garment according to any one of [4] to [6], wherein a void index V of the lining is 1.0 to 3.0.
    8. [8] The lined garment according to any one of [4] to [7], wherein the warp and weft of the lining are both long fiber twisted yarns having a twist coefficient Kf of 4000 to 20000 T/m.
    9. [9] The lined garment according to any one of [3] to [7], wherein the lining comprises regenerated cellulose long fibers.
    10. [10] The lined garment according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the garment is pants and the lining is affixed to an area of 30% or more of the outer material.
    11. [11] The lined garment according to [10], wherein the lining is affixed to an area of 50% or more of a front body of the outer material.
    12. [12] The lined garment according to [10] or [11], wherein the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining is 0.1 kPa·s/m or less and a ventilation resistance RS of the outer material is higher than the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining.
    13. [13] The lined garment according to any one of [10] to [12], wherein a void index V of the lining is 1.0 to 3.0.
    14. [14] The lined garment according to any one of [10] to [13], wherein the lining comprises regenerated cellulose long fibers.
    15. [15] The lined garment according to any one of [10] to [14], wherein the lining is a front support or back support and a seam margin of the outer material and the lining is covered by the lining.
    [ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION]
  • In addition to the heat and moisture transfer properties of the lining material, the lined garment according to the present invention can enhance both thermophysiological and sensory coolness as a result of appropriate placement of the lining.
  • BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS
    • FIG. 1 shows an example of a men's jacket body part pattern in which a lining is arranged in substantially the entire surface of a back part (full back specifications). This is an example in which the lining area ratio to the surface area of the back body of the outer material is approximately 95%.
    • FIG. 2-1 shows an example of a men's jacket body part pattern with an unlined specification at the back part. FIG. 2-1 is an example in which the lining area ratio to the surface area of the back body of the outer material is approximately 40%.
    • FIG. 2-2 shows an example of a men's jacket body part pattern with an unlined specification at the back part. FIG. 2-2 is an example in which the lining area ratio to the surface area of the back body of the outer material is approximately 60%.
    • FIG. 3 shows an example of a men's jacket body part pattern with a half back specification. This is an example in which the lining area ratio to the surface area of the back body of the outer material is approximately 30 %.
    • FIG. 4 shows an example of men's jacket body pattern with an unlined specification at the back part and single-breasted tailoring. This is an example in which the lining area ratio to the surface area of the back body of the outer material is approximately 40%.
    • FIG. 5 shows an example of a men's jacket sleeve pattern. This is an example in which the lining area ratio to the surface area of the sleeve of the outer material is approximately 95% (full sleeve specification). Note that in the present description and drawings, the area near the underside of the sleeve is referred to as the upper arm, the area near the end of the sleeve is referred to as the forearm, and the upper arm and forearm are combined to make a full sleeve. The area on the body side of the sleeve is the inner sleeve or inner arm, and the area opposite thereto is the outer sleeve or outer arm.
    • FIG. 6 shows an example of a men's jackets sleeve pattern. This is an example in which the specific lining area ratio to the surface area of the sleeve of the outer material is approximately 60% (upper arm specification). Note that in FIG. 6, "other sleeve material" corresponds to the forearm shown in FIG. 7.
    • FIG. 7 is an example of a men's jackets sleeve pattern. This is an example in which the specific lining area ratio to the surface area of the sleeve of the outer material is approximately 35% (forearm specifications). Note that in FIG. 7, "other sleeve material" corresponds to the upper arm shown in FIG. 6.
    DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS
  • Hereinafter, the embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
  • The garment of the present embodiment is characterized by the physical properties and placement method of the lining to be used.
  • The garment of the present embodiment is a lined garment in which a lining having a contact coolness value Qmax of 120 W/m2·°C or more and a moisture absorbency M of 6.0% or more is affixed to the outer material. Hereinafter, such a lining is also referred to as the 'specific lining.
  • In linings, it is important to select a material with high heat transfer characteristics because the function of effectively transferring the heat produced by the human body by heat conduction is important every time the garment comes into contact with the human body during wearing. Specifically, the contact coolness value Qmax of the lining is 120 W/m2·°C or more, preferably 140 W/m2·°C or more, and more preferably 160 W/m2·°C or more.
  • A material with high hygroscopicity is selected for the lining in order to absorb perspiration on the skin and suppress stuffiness, and the moisture absorbency M is 6.0% or more, preferably 8.0% or more, and more preferably 10% or more.
  • When the garment of the present embodiment is a jacket, in the sleeve of the outer material (sleeve outer material), the specific lining is preferably arranged at a position corresponding to at least an inner arm and an upper arm near the artery, or a wrist and a forearm near the arteriovenous anastomosis. If a short-sleeved shirt is worn under the jacket, it is especially preferable that the specific lining be positioned on the forearm that contacts the skin. The sleeve is the part that covers the upper limbs, has a large surface area and high heat dissipation, and contributes greatly to coolness.
  • When the garment of the present embodiment is a jacket, regarding the placement of the lining, the specific lining is preferably arranged in 30% or more of the surface area of the sleeve of the outer material, more preferably 40% or more, further preferably 60% or more, and yet further preferably 90%. When the "specific lining" is used in an area of 30% or more of the sleeve area of the outer material, a lining other than the "specific lining" can be used in other portions, for example, the "other sleeve lining" of FIGS. 6 and 7. In general, it is difficult to apply a lining to only the forearm, and therefore, when providing the specific lining to the forearm, it is preferable to provide the lining to the upper arm as well, as shown in FIG. 7.
  • In the jacket of the present embodiment, the specific lining can be arranged on a part or the entirety of the body part, and a full back specification (in which the lining is arranged in nearly the entire surface of the front body, the side body, the back body, and the sleeve) is preferable. The lining of the jacket of the present embodiment preferably occupies 30% of the area of the back body (also referred to as the back part) of the outer material, more preferably 40% or more, further preferably 60% or more, and yet further preferably 90% or more.
  • When arranging the lining in the back body, the full back specification (area ratio of 90% or more) shown in FIG. 1, the unlined specification at the back part shown in FIG. 2-1 and FIG. 2-2, the half back specification shown in FIG. 3, or the unlined single-breasted specification at the back part shown in FIG. 4 may be used, and it is preferable that the lining be arranged in 30% or more of the area of the back body of the outer material. In particular, the specification in which the lining is arranged in the entire back part has the advantage that piping work centering on the back can be omitted. Further, regarding the lining of the back body, it is preferable that lining be used in 30% or more of the area of the outer material of the back body from the shoulder portion close to the torso to the collar portion. When the lining is arranged in the front body and the side body as well, there are advantages of preventing tactile sensation of the seam in the back surface of the outer material and an increase in hygroscopicity. In particular, in a men's jackets, which is conventionally buttoned as a courtesy, it is necessary that the lining have a moisture treatment function in a closed clothing environment. The lining arranged in the side part (side body) and the front part (front body) is not particularly limited and may be the same as or different from the back part (back body).
  • In the case in which the garment of the present embodiment is pants, it is preferable that the specific lining be arranged in the portion from the groin to the knees of the leg. Because the lower limbs, in particular the groin and the upper front part of the thigh, have high heat dissipation efficiency, it is also thermophysiologically optimal to arrange the specific lining in this portion.
  • In the pants of the present embodiment, it is preferable that the specific lining be arranged in 20% or more of the surface area of the outer material, more preferably 30% or more, and it is preferable that the specific lining be arranged in 40% or more of the surface area of the front body, more preferably 50% or more. The placement of the specific lining may be a full back specification, a front contact specification, or a back contact specification, but the full back specification is more preferable because it can prevent tactile sensation of the outer material and friction with the seam of the outer material, which is more preferable because it is possible to treat perspiration on the entirety of the lower leg. When either a front contact or back contact partial specification is to be used, it is preferable that the front contact specification be used. The reason for this is that in the case of the front contact specification, the skin and the lining come into contact with each other during walking, whereby heat exchange efficiency is increased. The length of the lining is preferably a length below the knee from the viewpoint of improving the knee operability. As long as the lining extends below the knee, the thigh portion can be effectively contacted even during movements such as walking and sitting.
  • In order to suppress increases in humidity in the garment during long-duration wearing, in consideration of the water vapor transfer properties, the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining in the outermost layer of garment is 0.1 kPa·s/m or less, and the ventilation resistance RS of the outer material is higher than the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining, in other words, the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining is lower than (smaller than) the ventilation resistance RS of the outer material, i.e., it is preferable that RL < RS. The ventilation resistance RL of the lining is more preferably 0.05 kPa·s/m or less.
  • When the ventilation resistance RL of the lining exceeds 0.1 kPa·s/m, the water vapor transfer properties during long-duration wearing is poor, and a humid feeling cannot be suppressed only by the moisture absorbency of the material. Further, when the ventilation resistance RL of the lining is higher than the ventilation resistance RS of the surface, water vapor in the innermost layer is not effectively discharged, whereby water vapor tends to remain. Thus, it is preferable that RL be 0.1 kPa·s/m or less and RL < RS be satisfied. As a standard method to reduce the ventilation resistance of lining, in addition to simply lowering the density of the constituent yarns, in the case of long fibers, the constituent yarns may be combined and twisting or crimping may be imparted to the yarn, and in the case of short fibers, the twist coefficient may be increased.
  • In order to achieve the desired heat and moisture transfer properties, it is preferable that the void index V which takes into account the air content of the lining, i.e., the void index V which is obtained from the product of the void area and thickness calculated from the two-dimensional void ratio, be 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less.
  • When excessive voids are provided in the lining, though the ventilation resistance is greatly reduced, the air content is large and the heat insulating effect is increased, whereby it is difficult for heat transfer due to contact to be exhibited. Thus, in order to achieve both thermal conductivity and water vapor transferability, it is important to control the void index V.
  • The porosity of a fabric is generally calculated in two dimensions, such as by calculation from the cover factor (fiber occupancy rate), but the present inventors have made it clear that the void index V taking the air content into consideration is important, and that the void area can be captured three-dimensionally, i.e., from the product of the two-dimensional gap ratio and the thickness. As described above, the void index V is preferably 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less during long-duration wearing in order to achieve thermal conductivity and water vapor transferability. When the void index V exceeds 3.0, even if water vapor transferability is achieved, the air content may be high, whereby the heat insulating effect may be enhanced. Conversely, when the void index is less than 1.0, the insulating effect may be reduced due to the low air content, but the water vapor transferability may not be achieved.
  • In order to control the ventilation resistance to 0.1 or less and the void index V to 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less, in addition to the density and shapes of the constituent yarns (which are related to the void rate), it is necessary that the thickness (multiplied by the void rate, the void index) be considered. If the yarns are simply converged in order to reduce the ventilation resistance, the increase in thickness due to the convergence of the yarns also increases the amount of voids, and thus, it is necessary that increases in thickness be limited to the necessary minimum, and at the same time, it is desirable to reduce the air content of the constituent yarns themselves.
  • In order to reduce the void index V, it is preferable to reduce the thickness of the lining, for that purpose, in addition to the yarn manufacturing technique, it is more preferable to reduce the thickness by 10% to 20% using a cold calender or a hot calender in combination in the final finishing step of lining. As a result, the contact coolness and thermal conductivity can be enhanced not only by the effect of reducing the quantity of voids but also as a result of smoothing.
  • In order to set Qmax of the lining to 120 W m2·°C or more, it is preferable to use short fibers having less fluffing than short fibers having fluffing, and further, long fibers having no fluffing, as the constituent fiber. Excessive fluffing hinders heat transfer. Thus, when short fibers are used, it is preferable to select short fibers having a relatively long fiber length, the single fiber fineness of which is preferably 2 dtex or less, the fiber length of which is preferably 25 mm or more, more preferably 38 mm or more. The thickness of the short fibers is preferably 40 to 60 (cotton number), more preferably 50 to 60 (cotton number). The number of twists is preferably 20 twists/inch to 30 twists/inch in view of the rigidity and texture of the yarns. The twist coefficient Ks calculated by the following formula:
    • twist coefficient Ks (s represents short fibers) = number of twists (twists/inch)/cotton number0.5
    • is preferably 3 to 4. If the twist coefficient Ks is 3 to 4, convergence is more likely to occur, whereby the air content can be suppressed.
  • When long fibers are used as the constituent fibers of the lining, it is preferable to select fibers having a yarn fineness of 30 dtex or more and 130 dtex or less. By setting the thickness to 30 dtex or more and 130 dtex or less, it is possible to maintain a balance between physical properties such as friction resistance and tearing, and texture properties such as softness. When the fineness is less than 30 dtex, friction and tear strength are poor, and when it exceeds 130 dtex, the texture becomes rigid. Regarding the cross-sectional shape of single fibers, circles and ellipses are preferable to shapes with angles such as triangles and crosses from the viewpoint of reducing friction between the skin and the outer material. The single yarn fineness is preferably 4 dtex or less because the finer the yarn, the softer the fabric. The shape of the constituent yarns may be a single material, a prepared composite of two or more types of materials, a composite on the machine, or an alternating composite. A raw yarn and a twisted yarn having a high smoothness and a high packing degree are preferable to a false twisted yarn and an air entangled yarn having a low surface smoothness. Materials with high intra-fiber water content are preferable because of their high thermal conductance. Examples of materials constituting the lining include, among cellulosic fibers, natural fibers such as cotton and hemp, regenerated cellulose fibers such as viscose rayon, copper ammonium rayon (also referred to as cuprammonium rayon, Cupra, Bemberg™), purified cellulose, acetate of semi-synthetic fibers, as well as synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester. If a metallic oxide having high heat conductance is kneaded in the polymer, heat conduction can be further increased.
  • In order to achieve the hygroscopicity of the lining, it is preferable to include a cellulosic fiber described above. The hydrophobic group in the polymer may be modified with a hydrophilic group exhibiting hygroscopicity.
  • Thereamong, regenerated cellulose fibers are most preferable because of their high thermal conductivity due to the high moisture content in the fibers. The mixing ratio of the cellulosic fiber is preferably 30% or more relative to the weight of the lining, more preferably 40% or more, and further preferably 50% or more, which enhances hygroscopicity. When the cellulosic fiber content is less than 30%, hygroscopicity is insufficient, whereby a humid feeling is likely to occur. Cellulosic fibers are more preferable than synthetic fibers because they are less likely to cause shininess, glare, or heat fusion after calendering step, and among these, it is preferable that regenerated cellulosic fibers be contained in an amount of 30% by weight or more, more preferably 40% by weight or more. If the regenerated cellulose fiber is a long fiber yarn, the air content of the yarn can be suppressed, which is more preferable.
  • The use of long fibers as the constituent yarn is more preferable because the air content in the yarn is relatively smaller than that of short fibers. Though a false-twisted yarn of synthetic fibers can be used, in this case, it is preferable to select a low crimped yarn in which the total fineness of the yarn is 130 dtex or less, more preferably 84 dtex or less, further preferably 56 dtex or less, and the false twist number, heater temperature, and yarn speed are adjusted so as not to be bulky, and the crimp elongation (based on JIS-L-1090 synthetic fiber bulky finished yarn evaluation method, 5.7 stretching method, method B) is 20% or less. The crimp elongation is most preferably 5% to 10%. It is more preferable to use a method in which two or more types of yarns are air-entangled in advance and subsequently further twisted, because the air content can be further suppressed. As the false-twisted yarn, it is preferable that a fused drawn false-twisted yarn having a portion in which the twisted state is maintained during twisting in the longitudinal direction of the yarn (a so-called "not untwisted portion"), and an untwisted portion in which the untwisting action is concentrated and formed in the same direction as the not untwisted portion not be used.
  • In the garment of the present embodiment, it is assumed that the warp of the fabric constituting the lining is fixed in the longitudinal direction in the case of the sleeve of a jacket, and in substantially the height direction in the case of the body part of a jacket or pants.
  • A twisted yarn is preferable because the air content can be suppressed by eliminating the air in the yarn. A twisted yarn made of a single material or a twisted yarn obtained by twisting two or more types of yarns may be used, and it is preferable that at least one of the warp and the weft constituting the lining be a twisted yarn, and more preferably both are twisted yarns. The twist coefficient Ks calculated from the following formula:
    • twist coefficient Kf (f represents long fibers) = number of twists (twists/m) × fineness0. 5
    • is preferably 4000 to 20000, more preferably 4500 to 20000, and further preferably 5000 to 18000. When the twist coefficient Kf is set to 4000 to 20000, convergence is more likely to occur, whereby the air content is suppressed. At the time of production of the twisted yarn, it is preferable that twist setting conditions be set to a high temperature and longer time. Preferred conditions are a setting temperature of 70 °C to 90 °C, a setting time of 40 to 60 minutes for a single repetition, 20 minutes to 30 minutes for two repetitions, and for cellulosic fibers, a setting temperature as high as 80 °C to 90 °C. The setting time is preferably carried out twice. Though raw yarn and twisted yarn, raw yarn and false-twisted yarn, and false-twisted yarn and twisted yarn can be used on the machine, a combination of a twisted yarn and a twisted yarn, which has a low air content in the yarn, is most preferable. A yarn which is additionally twisted after false-twist, twisted, and then strong-twisted is more preferable than a false-twisted yarn since the air content can be reduced.
  • The lining used in the garment of the present embodiment has a basis weight of preferably 50 g/m2 or more, more preferably 60 g/m2 or more, and further preferably 62 g/m2 or more. When the basis weight is less than 50 g/m2, physical properties such as strength may be reduced. The basis weight of the garment of the present embodiment is preferably 100 g/m2 or less, more preferably 85 g/m2 or less, and further preferably 80 g/m2 or less. When the basis weight exceeds 100 g/m2, the lining may become excessively thick.
  • The organization of the lining used in the garment of the present embodiment is not particularly limited and can be produced using a conventional loom. Examples of the organization of the fabric include flat fabrics, twill fabrics, satin fabrics, and modified organizations thereof.
  • Post-weaving post-treatment should be carried out in the order of scouring, presetting, dyeing, and finishing, but post-treatment is not limited thereto. Regarding scouring, a general open-soaper type open-cloth continuous scouring machine is preferably used. The temperature at the time of scouring may be appropriately selected in the range of 40 °C to 90 °C, and the drying temperature may be appropriately selected in the range of 100 °C to 195 °C.
  • The presetting may be appropriately selected in the range of 150 °C to 195 °C with a pin tenter-type processor. The setting width may be appropriately selected as appropriate from the width after scouring and drying.
  • Dyeing may be carried out by a jet dyeing method, a beam dyeing method, a Jigger dyeing method, a spreading continuous cold pad batch dyeing method, a pad steam dyeing method, or a combination of the above dyeing methods. A spun yarn may be used to reduce the dyeing process.
  • The finishing process is preferably performed in a spread state, and when cellulosic fibers are used, non-formalin resin processing may be performed for the purpose of preventing shrinkage and wrinkling. In this case, in addition to the resin processing agent, a softening agent, a water repellent, or an anti-slip agent may be appropriately added. The calendering mentioned above is preferably used in order to reduce the thickness, and to increase smoothness and contact coolness, and in the case of hot calendering, the effect of improving smoothness and contact coolness is further enhanced. The pressure of the calendaring is preferably 0.1 MPa to 0.5 MPa and more preferably 0.2 MPa to 0.3 MPa. The temperature of the calendaring is preferably 80 °C to 115 °C and more preferably 90 °C to 100 °C.
  • The lining of the garment of the present embodiment is required to be fixed to at least a part of the outer material, and all corners of the lining may be fixed to the outer material. The method of affixing the lining to the outer material is not limited to sewing, and adhesive bonding may be used. When the lining is sewn with a lockstitch sewing machine, it is preferable to stitch at a pitch of 4 to 5 needles/cm from the aspect of sewing location strength retention and the prevention of sink marks. This sewing method will be referred to as method A. Note that in the present embodiment, auxiliary materials such as interlining may be appropriately used in the front body, collar, cuffs, and sides.
  • In the case in which the garment of the present embodiment is pants, when front contact or back contact is partially used, it is preferable that the seam margin between the outer material and the lining be covered with the lining, which prevents the seam between the outer material and the lining from contacting and rubbing skin, whereby the frequency of discomfort is decreased. In order to ensure that the seam margin of the outer material and the lining is covered with the lining, the pants can be sewn so that the front side of the lining is the inner most layer by a method in which the outer material is turned inside out, both sides thereof are sewn, the lining is turned to the outside, and thereafter, sewn to the seam margin, which was sewn by turning the outer material inside out, so as to overlap outside of the seam of the outer material, and finally aligning the three layers and finally reversing (this sewing method will be referred to as method B). By sewing in this manner, it is possible to prevent puckering of the side part of the pants as compared to conventional sewing methods (standard methods) in which the outer material and the lining are sewn, whereby the pants will have beautiful seams, and the wearing comfort is improved. This is because, in the conventional method, the outer material and the lining are sewn together, and puckering may occur due to differences in thickness and elongation, elongation may be insufficient during use due to the differences in elongation.
  • The material and physical form, such as short fibers or long fibers, of the outer material of the garment of the present embodiment is not particularly limited, but it is preferable to satisfy the relative relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material described above. It is preferable that a material having a relatively high hygroscopicity, for example, animal fibers such as wool or silk, cellulose fibers, or semi-synthetic fibers be mixed with acetate fibers. Examples of synthetic fibers include polyamide-based fibers and polyester-based fibers having modified hygroscopicity, and these may be mixed together or may be mixed with fibers having high hygroscopicity. It is preferable when the contact coolness value Qmax of the back surface of the outer material is high, in particular since the coolness improvement effect is obtained in portions where the lining is not attached. The Qmax of the back surface of the outer material is preferably 120 W/m2·°C or more, more preferably 140 W/m2·°C or more, and further preferably 150 W/m2·°C or more. Note that examples of the method for increasing the contact coolness value Qmax of the back surface of the outer material include calendering the back surface of the outer material. In this case, it is preferable to carry out calendering only on the back surface from the viewpoint of aesthetics.
  • The organization of the outer material of a jacket of the present embodiment is not limited to weaving and knitting, but it is preferable to satisfy the relative relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material describe above, and as a result, it is possible to provide a jacket with higher coolness when the lining is attached than when the lining is not attached.
  • EXAMPLES
  • Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described by way of Examples and Comparative examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples. First, the measurement methods and evaluation methods used in the Examples will be explained. In the following measurement methods, the fabrics, outer materials, and linings were cut out from garment.
  • (1) Characteristics (Warp Density, weft density, Basis Weight, Thickness)
  • The fabrics (outer material and lining) were stored all day and night in a temperature-controlled room maintained at 20 °C × 65% RH, and thereafter measured in the same temperature-controlled room.
    Warp/Weft Density (number of strands per inch): Density meter
    Basis Weight (g/m2): Precision Electronic Balance
    Thickness: Measured with a thickness meter in accordance with the JIS L 1096 standard, for example, a Peacock constant pressure thickness meter FFA10, contact pressure: 2.4 N/cm2
  • (2) Contact Coolness Value Qmax
  • In the same temperature-controlled room, the maximum thermal movement (Qmax) was measured at room temperature 20 °C, humidity 65% RH, a contact pressure of 98 cN/cm2·, and a 9 cm2 (3 cm × 3 cm) contact area with the skin-facing surface facing the of the fabric (the back surface of the outer material and the front surface of the lining). Styrofoam was used as insulating material. The number of measurements was N = 5, and the average value was obtained.
  • (3) Moisture Absorbency M (Lining Moisture Absorbency)
  • The fabric was pre-dried for 1 hour in an 80 °C blower dryer, the fabric (lining) was then stored all day and night in a temperature-controlled room at 20 °C × 65% RH, and thereafter the weight of the fabric was measured in the same temperature-controlled room. The number of measurements was N = 5, and the average value was obtained.
  • (4) Ventilation Resistance R (Lining Ventilation Resistance RL, Outer Material Ventilation Resistance RS)
  • In the same temperature-controlled room, using a KES-F8 ventilation resistance measuring instrument manufactured by Katotech Co., the ventilation resistances of the outer material (RS) and the lining (RL) were measured. The number of measurements was N = 5 at different measurement locations, and the average value was obtained.
  • (5) Void Index V
  • Five locations on the surface of the lining were photographed with a scanning electron microscope (preferably 50 to 100 times magnification), the area occupancy (%) of the fiber yarn was determined using the binarization method of an image analysis device, the average value was obtained, and the porosity (%) was calculated from this value (porosity = 100 - area occupancy). The void index V was calculated by multiplying the porosity and the thickness.
  • (6) Share of lining area (%)
  • By image processing using CAD, the area occupancy ratio of the back fabric was calculated from the area ratio of the pattern paper of the front fabric and the pattern paper of the back fabric. The above-mentioned pattern paper can be produced by disassembling the product to make the fabric flat and scanning with a digitizer.
  • Next, the jacket wearing evaluation methods used in the Examples and Comparative Examples will be described.
  • (7) Jacket Wearing Sensory Evaluation
  • Ten healthy males with heights of 170 to 175 cm and weights of 60 to 70 kg were selected as subjects. Evaluation was carried out while wearing, on the upper half of the body, an undershirt composed of 60% cotton, 20% cupra, and 20% polyester milling cutter (YG-X manufactured by Gunze), and a short-sleeved shirt composed of a mixed yarn of 65% cotton and 35% polyester. All subjects wore no tie and did not button the first button of the shirt. The jacket was of a two-button specification, but only the first button was buttoned. On the lower body, 100% cotton briefs and cotton/polyester blend socks were worn under 100% cotton unlined pants.
  • In a 30 °C × 50% RH environment, subjects were first made to sit in the sitting position for 15 minutes while wearing 100% cotton unlined pants and a short sleeve shirt. Thereafter, subjects were randomly asked to wear a prototype jacket one-by-one (using a random number table) and the following specified actions were performed, and sensory evaluation was carried out for each jacket. Responses were given in accordance with the following five-step evaluation by the SD method, and the average values thereof are shown.
  • [Specified Actions]
  • Sensory evaluation was carried out by the subject by inserting both arms into the sleeves, resting for five minutes, repeatedly extending both arms forward for five repetitions (initial coolness evaluation), and thereafter resting for five minutes (sustained coolness evaluation). Thereafter, the jacket was removed, and the subject moved on to the subsequent jacket wearing evaluation. The evaluation criteria for initial coolness evaluation (initial coolness) and sustained coolness evaluation (sustained coolness) are shown below. A jacket having high coolness in both of these points is considered to be a lined jacket having both a high thermophysiological coolness and high sensory coolness.
  • [Initial Coolness Evaluation (Initial Coolness)]
    • 5: Very cool
    • 4: Cool
    • 3: Unsure
    • 2: Slightly hot
    • 1: Very hot
    [Sustained Coolness Evaluation (Sustained Coolness)]
    • 5: Very cool
    • 4: Cool
    • 3: Unsure
    • 2: Slightly hot
    • 1: Very hot
  • Hereinafter, the pants wearing evaluation methods used in the Examples and Comparative Examples will be described.
  • (8) Pants Wearing Sensory Evaluation
  • Ten healthy males with heights of 170 to 175 cm and weights of 60 to 70 kg were selected as subjects. Evaluation was carried out wearing, on the lower half of the body, 100% cotton briefs and cotton/polyester blend socks, and on the upper half of the body, an undershirt composed of 60% cotton, 20% cupra, and 20% polyester milling cutter (YG-X manufactured by Gunze), and a short-sleeved shirt composed of a mixed yarn of 65% cotton and 35% polyester. All subjects wore no tie and did not button the first button of the shirt.
  • In a 30 °C × 50% RH environment, subjects were first made to sit in a sitting position for 15 minutes wearing 100% unlined cotton pants. Thereafter, subjects were randomly asked to wear a pair of prototype pants one-by-one (using a random number table), and the following specified actions were performed, and a sensory evaluation was performed for each pair. Responses were given in accordance with the following five-step evaluation by the SD method, and the average value was obtained.
  • [Specified Actions]
  • Subjects repeated squatting for five repetitions followed by sitting and standing for five repetitions. Thereafter, subjects put on 100% cotton pants and rested for five minutes. Subjects then moved to the subsequent pants wearing evaluation.
  • [Coolness Evaluation (Coolness)]
    • 5: Very cool
    • 4: Cool
    • 3: Unsure
    • 2: Slightly hot
    • 1: Very hot
    (9) Pants Wearing Physiological Evaluation
  • Five healthy males with heights of 170 to 175 cm and weights of 60 to 70 kg were selected as subjects. Taking into consideration circadian rhythm, each subject underwent an experiment with one outfit per day under dietary control.
  • Evaluation was carried out while wearing, on the lower half of the body, 100% cotton briefs and cotton/polyester blended sock under the pants, and on the upper half of the body, an undershirt composed of 60% cotton, 20% cupra, and 20% polyester milling cutter (YG-X manufactured by Gunze), and a short-sleeved shirt composed of a mixed yarn of 65% cotton and 35% polyester. All subjects wore no tie and did not button the first button of the shirt.
  • In a 32 °C × 50% RH environment, the subjects were made to walk on a treadmill for 10 minutes at 5 km/h after sitting for 30 minutes while wearing a pair of prototype pants, and were then made to sit at rest for 10 minutes after finishing. During the wearing evaluation, the average skin temperature was obtained every 10 seconds from the start of rest to the end of rest after walking. The skin temperature was obtained by averaging the data of 5 persons on the time axis and then obtaining the section average value from the start to the end of the measurement. The average skin temperature was obtained by attaching skin temperature sensors (LT-2N-12 manufactured by Gram Co.) to the right chest, upper arm, thigh and lower leg of the subject according to the four-point Ramanasan Method. Sensory evaluation of the coolness for each pair of pants was carried out at the time of walking and rest. Responses were made in accordance with the following five-step evaluation by the SD method, and the average values thereof are shown. Due to the high coolness after walking, the lined pants had both high thermophysiological coolness and high sensory coolness.
  • [Coolness Evaluation (Coolness After Walking)]
    • 5: Very cool
    • 4: Cool
    • 3: Unsure
    • 2: Slightly hot
    • 1: Very hot
    [Production of Outer Material] [Wool/Polyester Blend Outer Material X]
  • A spun yarn was obtained using a 2/72 warp 2/72 weft top-dyed wool/polyester yarn, and a plain weave outer material X having a finishing density of 64 warp/inch, 55 weft/inch, and a ventilation resistance of 0.083 kPa·s/m was prepared. The contact coolness of the back surface of the outer material was 139 W/m2·°C.
  • [Wool Outer Material Y]
  • A 2/60 warp 2/60 weft wool spun yarn was obtained, and after conventional dyeing processing, a plain weave outer material Y having a finishing density of 62 warp/inch, 48 weft/inch, and a ventilation resistance of 0.100 kPa·s/m was prepared. The contact coolness of the back surface of the outer material was 148 W/m2·°C.
  • [Wool Outer Material Z]
  • A 2/60 warp 2/60 weft wool spun yarn was obtained, and after a conventional dyeing processing, single-sided calendering was performed on only the back surface in the finishing process using the plain weave outer material Y having a finishing density of 62 warp/inch and 48 weft/inch. The ventilation resistance of this outer material was 0.110 kPa·s/m, and the contact coolness value Qmax of the back surface was 158 W/m2·°C.
  • [Lining Production] [Lining 1]
  • For the warp, a 56 dtex/45f cupra ammonium rayon (Bemberg manufactured by Asahi Kasei) was twisted twice in the S direction at a treatment temperature of 85 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting to obtain an S-twisted yarn having a number of TM twists of 1000 twists/m. Thereafter, for the weft, an 84 dtex/45f Bemberg yarn twisted in the S direction and the same twisted in the Z direction were twisted twice at a treatment temperature of 85 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting to obtain an S-twisted yarn and a Z-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1825 twists/m. The yarns were supplied to an air jet loom so that the former S-twisted yarn was arranged in the warp and the S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn of the latter were alternately arranged in the weft to obtain a flat fabric, and after being subjected to dyeing process 1 below, lining 1 was obtained.
  • <Dyeing Process 1>
  • Continuous Scouring - Presetting - Pad Steam Dyeing/Soaping/Drying - Flexible Resin Treatment - Hot Paper Calendering (Temperature 90 °C, 1000 N/cm) - Evaluation
    The thickness of the lining changed by 13% from 0.147 mm to 0.128 mm before and after calendering.
  • [Lining 2]
  • An 84 dtex/45f cupra ammonium rayon (Bemberg™ manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corp.) and a 110 dtex/75f of the same cupra ammonium rayon were fed to an air jet room weaving machine to obtain a flat fabric, and after being subjected to dyeing process 2 below, lining 2 was obtained.
  • The thickness of the lining changed by 4% from 0.104 mm to 0.100 mm before and after calendering.
  • <Dyeing Process 2>
  • Continuous Scouring - Presetting - Pad Steam Dyeing/Soaping/Drying - Flexible Resin Treatment - Cold Paper Calendering (Room Temperature, 1000 N/cm) - Evaluation
  • [Lining 3]
  • For the warp, a 56 dtex/24f polyester twisted in the S direction was subjected to twist setting at a treatment temperature of 80 °C and a treatment time of 30 minutes to obtain an S-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 600 twists/m. Thereafter, for the weft, an 84 dtex/45f Viscose rayon twisted in the S direction and the same twisted in the Z direction subjected to twist setting at a treatment temperature of 80 °C and a treatment time of 40 minutes to obtain an S-twisted yarn and a Z-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1825 twists/m. The yarns were supplied to an air jet loom so that the former S-twisted yarn was arranged in the warp and the S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn of the latter were alternately arranged in the weft to obtain a flat fabric, and after being subjected to dyeing process 3 below, lining 3 was obtained. The thickness of the lining changed by 9% from 0.154 mm to 0.140 mm before and after calendering.
  • <Dyeing Process 3>
  • Continuous Scouring - Presetting - Jet Dyeing/Soaping - Drying - Pad Steam Dyeing/Soaping/Drying - Resin Treatment - Cold Paper Calendering (Room Temperature, 1000 N/cm) - Evaluation
  • [Lining 4]
  • For the warp, a 84 dtex/45f cupra ammonium rayon (Bemberg™ manufactured by Asahi Kasei) twisted in the S direction was subjected to twist setting at a treatment temperature of 70 °C and a treatment time of 40 minutes to obtain an S-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 600 twists/m. Thereafter, for the weft, an 84 dtex/45f Bemberg™ yarn twisted in the S direction and the same twisted in the Z direction were subjected to twist setting at a treatment temperature of 70 °C and a processing time of 40 minutes to obtain an S-twisted yarn and a Z-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 600 twists/m. The yarns were supplied to an air jet loom so that the former S-twisted yarn was arranged in the warp and the S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn of the latter were alternately arranged in the weft to obtain a flat fabric, and after being subjected to dyeing process 2 described above, lining 4 was obtained. The thickness of the lining changed by 9% from 0.154 mm to 0.140 mm before and after calendering.
  • [Lining 5]
  • A flat fabric was obtained with an air jet loom using 60/-cupra ammonium rayon (Bemberg™ manufactured by Asahi Kasei) short fibers (single yarn 1.4 dtex, fiber length 38 mm, Ks = 3.8) For both the warp and the weft, and this fabric was then subjected to dyeing process 2 described above to obtain lining 5.
  • The thickness of the lining changed by 8% from 0.176 mm to 0.160 mm before and after calendering.
  • [Lining 6]
  • A flat fabric was obtained with a water jet loom using 100 dtex/36f polyester fused drawn false twisted yarn for both the warp and weft, and this fabric was then subjected to dyeing process 4 below to obtain lining 6.
  • <Dyeing Process 4>
  • Continuous Scouring - Presetting - Jet Dyeing/Soaping - Drying - Finishing - Evaluation
  • [Lining 7]
  • A flat fabric was obtained with a water jet loom using a 56 dtex/36f polyester as the warp and an 84 dtex/36f polyester as the weft, and this fabric was subjected to dyeing process 4 described above to obtain lining 7.
  • The yarns and various physical properties of linings 1 to 7 obtained in this manner are shown in Table 1 below. [Table 1]
    Cellulose Fiber Mixing Ratio (%) Polyester Fiber Mixing Ratio (%) Warp Weft Warp Density (strands/inch) Weft Density (strands/inch) Binarized Porosity (%) Thickness (mm) Void Index V Basis Weight (g/m2) RL (kPa·s/m) Lining Moisture Absorbency M (%) Qmax (W/m2·°C)
    Lining 1 100 0 Cupra 56 dtex Cupra 84 dtex 144 82 18.8 0.128 2.406 69.5 0.017 11.0 166
    Lining 2 100 0 Cupra 84 dtex Cupra 110 dtex 114 75 6.9 0.100 0.690 73.4 0.363 11.0 185
    Lining 3 60 40 Polyester 56 dtex Rayon 84 dtex 121 92 21.0 0.140 2.940 71.0 0.015 6.6 142
    Lining 4 100 0 Cupra 84 dtex Cupra 84 dtex 128 91 18.7 0.140 2.618 79.9 0.045 11.0 184
    Lining 5 100 0 Cupra 60/- Cupra 60/- 101 83 18.6 0.160 2.976 78.7 0.098 11.0 159
    Lining 6 0 100 Polyester 100 dtex Polyester 100 dtex 91 92 22.1 0.195 4.310 71.8 0.031 0.4 112
    Lining 7 0 100 Polyester 56 dtex Polyester 84 dtex 106 85 2.3 0.080 0.184 54.1 0.541 0.4 118
  • Regarding lining 1, lining 3, and lining 4, moisture absorbency M was 6.0% or more, ventilation resistance value RL was 0.045 kPa·s/m or less, which is lower than the ventilation resistance value RS of the outer materials X and Y, and contact coolness value Qmax was 120 W/m2·°C or more.
  • Conversely, regarding lining 2, the ventilation resistance value RL was not 0.1 kPa·s/m or less, and the ventilation resistance value RL was higher than the ventilation resistance values RS of outer materials X and Y, and the contact coolness value Qmax was the highest at 185 W/m2·°C.
  • Regarding lining 5, the ventilation resistance value RL was 0.1 kPa·s/m or less, which was lower than the ventilation resistance value RS of the outer material Y, and the contact coolness value Qmax was 120 W/m2·°C or more.
  • Regarding both lining 6 and lining 7, the contact coolness value Qmax were less than 120 W/m2·°C, and the moisture absorbency M was less than 6.0%.
  • [Lined Jacket Prototype]
  • Jackets were sewn in accordance with JIS standard size A6 using outer material X and outer material Y and linings 1 to 7. During sewing of the lining, sewing was carried out so that the the warp direction on the loom was warp direction of the body.
  • In Example 13, outer material Y was used, and in Examples 1 to 12 and 14 to 26, and in Comparative Examples 1 to 10, outer material X was used. With the exception of Example 26, regarding the side body and the front body, the same lining as the back part was arranged so that, in the full back specification, the outer material area ratio was 95%, in the unlined specification at the back part, the outer material area ratio was 40%, and in the half back specification, the outer material area ratio was 30%. The outer material surface area in the side body and the front body correspond to the surface areas of the regions indicated by reference signs 2 and 3 in FIG. 1. In the case of no backing, the side body and the front body were unlined. Furthermore, a jacket with no lining was prepared as Comparative Example 7. Note that the sewing state between the outer material and the lining at the time of sewing was judged in accordance with the following evaluation criteria.
  • [Sewing State Evaluation]
    • 3: Very good
    • 2: Good
    • 1: Unsure
    • 0: Poor
    [Example 1]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the full back specification shown in FIG. 1 and lining 1 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5.
  • [Example 2]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the unlined specification shown in FIG. 2-1 and lining 1 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5.
  • [Example 3]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) in the body part and lining 1 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5.
  • [Example 4]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) in the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the upper arms shown in FIG. 6 and lining 2 for the forearm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner and outer sleeves at the lower part of elbow, the area ratio of the upper arm was 60%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 35%.
  • [Example 5]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the full back specification shown in FIG. 1 and, for the sleeves, lining 1 in the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 and lining 2 in the forearm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner and outer sleeves at the upper elbow part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 30%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.
  • [Example 6]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the half back specification shown in FIG. 3, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 and a lining 2 for the forearm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner and outer sleeves at the upper elbow part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 30%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.
  • [Example 7]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 on the inner arm shown in FIG. 5 and lining 2 on the outer arm. The area ratio of the inner arm was 40% and the area ratio of the outer arm was 55%.
  • [Example 8]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 on the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 and lining 2 on the forearm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the upper elbow part both, the area ratio of the upper arm was 30%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.
  • [Example 9]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using the lining 4 for the body part with the unlined specification shown in FIG. 2-2 and lining 2 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5.
  • [Example 10]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the unlined specification shown in FIG. 2-1 and lining 2 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5.
  • [Example 11]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 3 for the body part with the unlined specification shown in FIG. 2-1 and lining 1 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5.
  • [Example 12]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 4 for the body part with the unlined specification shown in FIG. 2-1 and lining 3 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5.
  • [Example 13]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 5 for the body part with the full back specification shown in FIG. 1 and lining 5 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5. As described above, in Example 13, the jacket was produced using outer material Y.
  • [Example 14]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 6 for the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the upper elbow part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 35%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 60%.
  • [Example 15]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the full back specification shown in FIG. 1, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 6 for the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 65%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.
  • [Example 16]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using a lining 1 for the body part with the half back specification shown in FIG. 3, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7, and lining 6 for the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 65%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.
  • [Example 17]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the inner arm shown in FIG. 5 and the lining 6 for the outer arm. The area ratio of the inner arm was 40% and the area ratio of the outer arm was 55%.
  • [Example 18]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 6 for the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 65% and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.
  • [Example 19]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the full back specification shown in FIG. 1, and for the sleeves, lining 2 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 6 for the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 65% and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.
  • [Example 20]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using lining 1 for the body part with the half back specification shown in FIG. 3, and for the sleeves, lining 2 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 6 for the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 65%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.
  • [Example 21]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 2 for the inner arm shown in FIG. 5 and lining 6 for the outer arm. The area ratio of the inner arm was 40% and the area ratio of the outer arm was 55%.
  • [Example 22]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 and lining 6 for the forearm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 70%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 25%.
  • [Example 23]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the outer arm shown in FIG. 5 and lining 6 for the inner arm. The area ratio of the inner arm was 35% and the area ratio of the outer arm was 60%.
  • [Example 24]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 2 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 6 for the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 65% and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.
  • [Example 25]
  • A jacket was produced by sewing method A using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 2 for the inner arm shown in FIG. 5 and lining 6 for the outer arm. The area ratio of the inner arm was 35% and the area ratio of the outer arm was 60%.
  • [Example 26]
  • A jacket was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 (lining 1), except that lining 6 was arranged in the side part (side body) and the front part (front side).
  • [Comparative Example 1]
  • A jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 6 needles/cm using lining 6 for the body part with the full back specification shown in FIG. 1 and lining 6 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5.
  • [Comparative Example 2]
  • A jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 6 needles/cm using lining 7 for the body part with the unlined specification shown in FIG. 2-1 and lining 7 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5.
  • [Comparative Example 3]
  • A jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 6 needles/cm using no lining (unbacked) for the body part and lining 6 for the sleeves with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. 5.
  • [Comparative Example 4]
  • A jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 3 needles/cm using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 7 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 and lining 6 for the forearm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 60% and the area ratio of the forearm was 35%.
  • [Comparative Example 5]
  • A jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 3 needles/cm using lining 7 for the body part with the full back specification shown in FIG. 1, and for the sleeves, lining 7 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 and lining 6 for the forearm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the upper elbow part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 30%, and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.
  • [Comparative Example 6]
  • A jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 3 needles/cm using lining 7 for the body part with the half back specification shown in FIG. 3, and for the sleeves, lining 7 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 and lining 6 for the forearm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow upper part both, the area ratio of the upper arm was 30% and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.
  • [Comparative Example 7]
  • A jacket having no lining was produced.
  • [Comparative Example 8]
  • A jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 3 needles/cm using lining 2 for the body part with the half back specification shown in FIG. 3, and for the sleeves, lining 1 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 7 for the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 75% and the area ratio of the forearm was 20%.
  • [Comparative Example 9]
  • A jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 3 needles/cm using lining 2 for the body part with the half back specification shown in FIG. 3, and for the sleeves, lining 2 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 7 for the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 75% and the area ratio of the forearm was 20%.
  • [Comparative Example 10]
  • A jacket was sewn and produced at a pitch of 3 needles/cm using no lining (unbacked) for the body part, and for the sleeves, lining 2 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 and lining 7 for the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the elbow lower part, the area ratio of the upper arm was 75% and the area ratio of the forearm was 20%.
  • The back and sleeve lining placement methods, the areas ratio of the lining to the outer material, the sewing finishing, and the results of the wearing evaluations are shown in Table 2 below. [Table 2]
    Lining Placement Method 1) Back Lining 2) Sleeve Lining (first) 2)' Sleeve Lining (second) Sewing State Initial Coolness Sustained Coolness
    Type Surface Area Ratio to Back Outer Material (%) Type Placement Surface Area Ratio to Sleeve Outer Material (%) Type Placement Surface Area Ratio to Sleeve Outer Material (%)
    Ex 1 Full Back Lining 1 95 Lining 1 Full Sleeve 95 - - - 3 4.5 4.5
    Ex 2 Unbacked Lining 1 40 Lining 1 Full Sleeve 95 - - - 3 4.4 4.3
    Ex 3 Unlined - 0 Lining 1 Full Sleeve 95 - - - 3 4.3 3.7
    Ex 4 Unlined - 0 Lining 1 Sleeve Upper Arm 60 Lining 2 Sleeve Forearm 35 3 3.9 3.6
    Ex 5 Full Back Lining 1 95 Lining 1 Sleeve Upper Arm 30 Lining 2 Sleeve Forearm 65 3 4 4.3
    Ex 6 Half Back Lining 1 30 Lining 1 Sleeve Upper Arm 30 Lining 2 Sleeve Forearm 65 3 3.7 3.8
    Ex 7 Unlined - 0 Lining 1 Sleeve Inner Arm 40 Lining 2 Sleeve Outer Arm 55 3 3.7 3.6
    Ex 8 Unlined - 0 Lining 1 Sleeve Upper Arm 30 Lining 2 Sleeve Forearm 65 3 3.5 3.6
    Ex 9 Unbacked Lining 4 60 Lining 2 Full Sleeve 95 - - - 3 4 3.5
    Ex 10 Unbacked Lining 1 40 Lining 2 Full Sleeve 95 - - - 3 3.8 3.5
    Ex 11 Unbacked Lining 3 40 Lining 1 Full Sleeve 95 - - - 3 4.3 4.2
    Ex 12 Unbacked Lining 4 40 Lining 3 Full Sleeve 95 - - - 3 3.8 3.9
    Ex 13 Full Back Lining 5 95 Lining 5 Full Sleeve 95 - - - 3 3.8 3.6
    Ex 14 Unlined - 0 Lining 1 Sleeve Forearm 60 Lining 6 Sleeve Upper Arm 35 3 3.2 3.3
    Ex 15 Full Back Lining 1 95 Lining 1 Sleeve Forearm 30 Lining 6 Sleeve Upper Arm 65 3 3.1 3.5
    Ex 16 Half Back Lining 1 30 Lining 1 Sleeve Forearm 30 Lining 6 Sleeve Upper Arm 65 3 3.2 3
    Ex 17 Unlined - 0 Lining 1 Sleeve Inner Arm 40 Lining 6 Sleeve Outer Arm 55 3 3.2 3
    Ex 18 Unlined - 0 Lining 1 Sleeve Forearm 30 Lining 6 Sleeve Upper Arm 65 3 3 3
    Ex 19 Full Back Lining 1 95 Lining 2 Sleeve Forearm 30 Lining 6 Sleeve Upper Arm 65 3 3 3.4
    Ex 20 Half Back Lining 1 30 Lining 2 Sleeve Forearm 30 Lining 6 Sleeve Upper Arm 65 3 2.9 2.9
    Ex 21 Unlined - 0 Lining 2 Sleeve Inner Arm 40 Lining 6 Sleeve Outer Arm 55 3 3 2.9
    Ex 22 Unlined - 0 Lining 1 Sleeve Upper Arm 70 Lining 6 Sleeve Forearm 25 3 3.4 3.2
    Ex 23 Unlined - 0 Lining 1 Sleeve Outer Arm 60 Lining 6 Sleeve Inner Arm 35 3 3.3 3.2
    Ex 24 Unlined - 0 Lining 2 Sleeve Forearm 30 Lining 6 Sleeve Upper Arm 65 3 2.9 2.7
    Ex 25 Unlined - 0 Lining 2 Sleeve Inner Arm 35 Lining 6 Sleeve Outer Arm 60 3 3.1 2.7
    Ex 26 Full Back Lining 1 95 Lining 1 Full Sleeve 95 - - - 3 4.4 4.4
    Comp Ex 1 Full Back Lining 6 95 Lining 6 Full Sleeve 95 - - - 0 1.6 1.4
    Comp Ex 2 Unbacked Lining 7 40 Lining 7 Full Sleeve 95 - - - 0 1.3 1.1
    Comp Ex 3 Unlined - 0 Lining 6 Full Sleeve 95 - - - 0 1.5 1.5
    Comp Ex 4 Unlined - 0 Lining 7 Sleeve Upper Arm 60 Lining 6 Sleeve Forearm 35 1 1.2 1.3
    Comp Ex 5 Full Back Lining 7 95 Lining 7 Sleeve Upper Arm 30 Lining 6 Sleeve Forearm 65 1 1.3 1.4
    Comp Ex 6 Half Back Lining 7 30 Lining 7 Sleeve Upper Arm 30 Lining 6 Sleeve Forearm 65 1 1.3 1.3
    Comp Ex 7 Unlined - - - Sleeveless - - - - - 1.0 1.1
    Comp Ex 8 Half Back Lining 2 30 Lining 1 Sleeve Forearm 20 Lining 7 Sleeve Upper Arm 75 1 2.2 3.1
    Comp Ex 9 Half Back Lining 2 30 Lining 2 Sleeve Forearm 20 Lining 7 Sleeve Upper Arm 75 1 2.2 3.1
    Comp Ex 10 Unlined - - Lining 2 Sleeve Forearm 20 Lining 7 Sleeve Upper Arm 75 1 2.0 2.8
  • [Prototype Lined Pants]
  • Pants were sewn in accordance with JIS standard size A6 using outer material X, outer material Y, outer material Z, and each type of lining. At the time of lining sewing, sewing was performed so that the warp direction on the loom becomes the body part warp direction.
  • [Examples 27, 31 and 32]
  • Regarding Example 27, the pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 1 20 cm below the KL (knee line) with a front contact specification. The lining area was 42% as compared to the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared to the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable. Regarding Example 31, the pants were sewn with the full back specification. The lining area was 90% as compared to the surface area of the outer material, and there were no defects in the followability of the pants. Regarding Example 32, the pants were sewn by method A and method B with the front contact specification 15 cm below the KL (short front). The lining area was 36% as compared with the surface area of the outer material of the outer material and 72% as compared with the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • [Example 28]
  • Pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 3 20 cm below the KL (knee line) with the front contact specification. The lining area was 42% as compared with the surface area of the outer material of the outer material and 84% as compared with the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • [Example 29]
  • For the warp, a 56 dtex/45f cupra ammonium rayon (Bemberg™ manufactured by Asahi Kasei) was twisted twice in the S direction at a treatment temperature of 70 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting to obtain an S-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1000 twists/m. Thereafter, for the weft, an 84 dtex/45f Bemberg™ yarn twisted in the S direction and the same twisted in the Z direction were twisted twice at a treatment temperature of 70 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting twice to obtain an S-twisted yarn and a Z-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1825 twists/m. The yarns were supplied to an air jet loom so that the former S-twisted yarn was arranged in the warp and the S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn of the latter were alternately arranged in the weft to obtain a flat fabric, and after being subjected to dyeing process 1 described above, lining 8 was obtained.
  • The thickness of the lining changed by 10% from 0.146 mm to 0.133 before and after calendering.
  • Lining 8 had a moisture absorbency M of 6.0% or more, a ventilation resistance value RL of 0.1 kPa·s/m or less, which was lower than the ventilation resistance value RS of the outer materials X and Y, and a contact coolness value Qmax of 120 W/m2·°C or more, but the void index V exceeded 3.0.
  • Pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 8 20 cm below the KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal length). The lining area was 42% as compared with the surface area of the outer material of the outer material and 84% as compared with the front body outer material, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • [Example 30]
  • Pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 4 20 cm below the KL (knee line) the front contact specification (front normal length). The lining area was 42% as compared with the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared with the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • [Example 33]
  • For the warp, a 56 dtex/45f cupra ammonium rayon (Bemberg™ manufactured by Asahi Kasei) was twisted twice in the S direction at a treatment temperature of 85 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting to obtain an S-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1000 twists/m. Thereafter, for the weft, an 84 dtex/45f Bemberg™ yarn twisted in the S direction and the same twisted in the Z direction were twisted twice at a treatment temperature of 85 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting twice to obtain an S-twisted yarn and a Z-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1825 twists/m. The yarns were supplied to an air jet loom so that the former S-twisted yarn was arranged in the warp and the S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn of the latter were alternately arranged in the weft to obtain a flat fabric, and after being subjected to dyeing process 3 described above, lining 9 was obtained.
  • The thickness of the lining changed by 8% from 0.147 mm to 0.135 mm before and after calendering.
  • Lining 9 had a moisture absorbency M of 6.0% or more, a ventilation resistance value RL of 0.1 kPa·s/m or less, which was lower than the ventilation resistance value RS of the outer materials X and Y, a contact coolness value Qmax of 120 W/m2·°C or more, and a void index V of 2.97.
  • Pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 9 20 cm below the KL (knee line) with the font contact specification (front normal length. The lining area was 42% as compared with the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared with the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • [Example 34]
  • For the warp, a 56 dtex/45f cupra ammonium rayon (Bemberg™ manufactured by Asahi Kasei) was twisted twice in the S direction at a treatment temperature of 70 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting to obtain an S-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1000 twists/m. Thereafter, for the weft, an 84 dtex/45f Bemberg™ yarn twisted in the S direction and the same twisted in the Z direction were twisted twice at a treatment temperature of 70 °C and a treatment time of 20 minutes and subjected to twist setting twice to obtain an S-twisted yarn and a Z-twisted yarn having a number of twists of 1825 twists/m. The yarns were supplied to an air jet loom so that the former S-twisted yarn was arranged in the warp and the S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn of the latter were alternately arranged in the weft to obtain a flat fabric, and after being subjected to dyeing process 3 described above, lining 10 was obtained.
  • The thickness of the lining changed by 7% from 0.147 mm to 0.137 mm before and after calendering.
  • Lining 10 had a moisture absorbency M of 6.0% or more, a ventilation resistance value RL of 0.1 kPa·s/m or less, lower than the ventilation resistance value RS of the outer materials X and Y, and a contact coolness value Qmax of 120 W/m2·°C or more, but the void index V exceeded 3.0.
  • Pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 10 20 cm below the KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal length). The lining area was 42% as compared with the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared with the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • [Example 35]
  • Using the outer material Y, pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 5 20 cm below the KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal length). The lining area was 42% as compared with the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared with the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • [Example 36]
  • Using the outer material Z, pants were sewn by method A and method B using lining 5 20 cm below the KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal length). The lining area was 42% as compared with the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared with the outer material front body, and the followability of the pants was suitable.
  • [Comparative Examples 12 and 16]
  • Regarding Comparative Example 12, pants were sewn using lining 6 with the full back specification. The lining area was 90% as compared to the surface area of the outer material.
  • Regarding Comparative Example 16, pants were sewn by method A and a convention method similarly using lining 6 20 cm below KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal length). The lining area was 42% as compared to the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared to the outer material front body, and there were no defects in the followability of the pants.
  • [Comparative Example 13]
  • Pants were sewn by method A and a conventional method using lining 7 20 cm below KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal). The lining area was 42% as compared to the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared to the outer material front body, and there were puckering defects in the followability of the pants.
  • [Comparative Example 14]
  • Pants were sewn by method A and by a conventional method using lining 5 20 cm below KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal length). The lining area was 42% as compared to the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared to the outer material front body. However, there were puckering defects in the followability of the pants.
  • [Comparative Example 15]
  • Unlined pants were sewn using the outer material X.
  • [Comparative Example 17]
  • 60/- cupra ammonium rayon (Bemberg™ manufactured by Asahi Kasei) short fibers (single yarn 1.4 dtex, fiber length 38 mm, Ks = 3.3) was used as a warp and weft to obtain a flat fabric with an air jet loom, which was then subjected to dyeing process 3 described above to obtain lining 11.
  • The thickness of the lining changed by 4% from 0.172 mm to 0.165 mm.
  • Lining 11 had a moisture absorbency M 6.0% or more, a ventilation resistance value RL of more than 0.1 kPa·s/m, which was higher than the ventilation resistance value RS of the outer materials X and Y, and a contact coolness value Qmax 120 W/m2·°C or more, but the void index V exceeded 3.0.
  • Pants were sewn by method A and a conventional method using lining 11 20 cm below KL (knee line) with the front contact specification (front normal length). The lining area was 42% as compared to the surface area of the outer material and 84% as compared to the outer material front body. However, there puckering defects in the followability of the pants.
  • The compositions, physical properties, placement locations, area occupancy ratio, and wearing evaluation results of linings of the pants obtained in this manner are shown in Tables 3-1 and 3-2 below. [Table 3-1]
    Cellulose Fiber Mixing Ratio (%) Polyester Fiber Mixing Ratio (%) Warp Weft Warp Density (strands/inch) Weft Density (strands/inch) Binarized Porosity (%) Thickness (mm) Void Index V Basis Weight (g/m2) RL (kPa·s/m)
    Outer Material Lining
    Ex 27 X 1 100 0 Cupra 56 dtex Cupra 84 dtex 144 82 18.8 0.128 2.406 69.5 0.017
    Ex 28 X 3 60 40 Polyester 56 dtex Rayon 84 dtex 121 92 21.0 0.140 2.940 71.0 0.015
    Ex 29 X 8 100 0 Cupra 56 dtex Cupra 84 dtex 137 86 31.6 0.133 4.203 67.4 0.013
    Ex 30 X 4 100 0 Cupra 84 dtex Cupra 84 dtex 128 91 18.7 0.140 2.618 79.9 0.045
    Ex 31 X 1 100 0 Cupra 56 dtex Cupra 84 dtex 144 82 18.8 0.128 2.406 69.5 0.017
    Ex 32 X 1 100 0 Cupra 56 dtex Cupra 84 dtex 144 82 18.8 0.128 2.406 69.5 0.017
    Ex 33 X 9 100 0 Cupra 56 dtex Cupra 84 dtex 144 82 22.0 0.135 2.970 69.5 0.015
    Ex 34 X 10 100 0 Cupra 56 dtex Cupra 84 dtex 137 86 32.8 0.137 4.490 67.4 0.010
    Comp Ex 12 X 6 0 100 Polyester 100 dtex Polyester 100 dtex 91 92 22.1 0.195 4.310 71.8 0.031
    Comp Ex 13 X 7 0 100 Polyester 56 dtex Polyester 84 dtex 106 85 2.3 0.080 0.184 54.1 0.541
    Comp Ex 14 X 5 100 0 No. 60 Spun Cupra No. 60 Spun Cupra 101 83 18.6 0.160 2.976 78.7 0.098
    Comp Ex 15 X None - - - - - - - - - - -
    Comp Ex 16 X 6 0 100 Polyester 100 dtex Polyester 100 dtex 91 92 22.1 0.195 4.310 71.8 0.031
    Comp Ex 17 X 11 100 0 No. 60 Spun Cupra No. 60 Spun Cupra 100 82 18.4 0.165 3.040 78.3 0.101
    Ex 35 Y 5 100 0 No. 60 Spun Cupra No. 60 Spun Cupra 101 83 18.6 0.160 2.976 78.7 0.098
    Ex 36 Z 5 100 0 No. 60 Spun Cupra No. 60 Spun Cupra 101 83 18.6 0.160 2.976 78.7 0.098
    [Table 3-2]
    Outer Material Lining RS-RL (kPa·s/m) Lining Hygroscopicity M (%) Qmax (W/m2· °C) Outer Material Surface Area Ratio (%) Outer Material Front Body Surface Area Ratio (%) Placement Method Coolness Average Skin Temp (°C) Coolness After Walking
    Ex 27 X 1 0.066 11.0 166 42 84 Normal Front 4.5 34.3 4.3
    Ex 28 X 3 0.069 6.6 142 42 84 Normal Front 4.0 34.6 3.8
    Ex 29 X 8 0.070 11.0 167 42 84 Normal Front 3.8 34.8 3.6
    Ex 30 X 4 0.038 11.0 184 42 84 Normal Front 4.1 34.4 3.9
    Ex 31 X 1 0.066 11.0 166 90 90 Full Back 4.6 34.2 4.4
    Ex 32 X 1 0.066 11.0 166 36 72 Short Front 4.3 34.4 4.2
    Ex 33 X 9 0.068 11.0 160 42 84 Normal Front 4.0 34.6 4.0
    Ex 34 X 10 0.073 11.0 160 42 84 Normal Front 3.6 34.8 3.5
    Comp Ex 12 X 6 0.052 0.4 112 90 90 Full Back 1.8 35.2 1.6
    Comp Ex 13 X 7 -0.458 0.4 118 42 84 Normal Front 1.6 35.4 1.4
    Comp Ex 14 X 5 -0.015 11.0 159 42 84 Normal Front 3.2 34.8 3.2
    Comp Ex 15 X None - - - 0 0 Unlined 1.6 35.6 1.4
    Comp Ex 16 X 6 0.052 0.4 112 42 84 Normal Front 2.0 35.0 1.8
    Comp Ex 17 X 11 -0.018 11.0 151 42 84 Normal Front 3.0 34.9 3.0
    Ex 35 Y 5 0.002 11.0 159 42 84 Normal Front 3.4 34.7 3.4
    Ex 36 Z 5 0.012 11.0 159 42 84 Normal Front 3.6 34.5 3.6
  • INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY
  • The lined garment of the present invention can achieve enhanced material and physical properties of the lining, but also thermophysiological and sensory coolness through not only appropriate selection the lining but also the placement method of the lining.
  • REFERENCE SIGNS LIST
  • 1
    back body (back part)
    2
    side body (side body)
    3
    front body (front part)
    4
    body part
    11
    lined back part
    12
    lined side part
    13
    lined front part
    21
    unlined back part
    22
    unlined side part
    23
    unlined front part

Claims (15)

  1. A lined garment, wherein a lining, which is a fabric having a contact coolness value Qmax of 120 W/m2·°C or more and a moisture absorbency of 6.0% or more, is affixed to an outer material in a position corresponding to at least an inner arm and upper arm portions, a forearm portion, or a portion from the groin to both knees.
  2. The lined garment according to claim 1, wherein the basis weight of the lining is 62 g/m2 or more.
  3. The lined garment according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the contact coolness value Qmax of a back of the outer material is 150 W/m2·°C or more.
  4. The lined garment according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the garment is a jacket and the lining is affixed to an area of 30% or more of a sleeve of the outer material.
  5. The lined garment according to claim 4, wherein the lining is affixed to an area of 30% or more of a back body of the outer material.
  6. The lined garment according to claim 4 or 5, wherein a ventilation resistance value RL of the lining is 0.1 kPa·s/m or less and a ventilation resistance RS of the outer material is higher than the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining.
  7. The lined garment according to any one of claims 4 to 6, wherein a void index V of the lining is 1.0 to 3.0.
  8. The lined garment according to any one of claims 4 to 7, wherein the warp and weft of the lining are both long fiber twisted yarns having a twist coefficient Kf of 4000 to 20000 T/m.
  9. The lined garment according to any one of claims 4 to 8, wherein the lining comprises regenerated cellulose long fibers.
  10. The lined garment according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the garment is underwear and the lining is affixed to an area of 30% or more of the outer material.
  11. The lined garment according to claim 10, wherein the lining is affixed to an area of 50% or more of a front body of the outer material.
  12. The lined garment according to claim 10 or 11, wherein the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining is 0.1 kPa·s/m or less and a ventilation resistance RS of the outer material is higher than the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining.
  13. The lined garment according to any one of claims 10 to 12, wherein a void index V of the lining is 1.0 to 3.0.
  14. The lined garment according to any one of claims 10 to 13, wherein the lining comprises regenerated cellulose long fibers.
  15. The lined garment according to any one of claims 10 to 14, wherein the lining is a front support or back support and a seam margin of the outer material and the lining is covered by the lining.
EP18891387.5A 2017-12-18 2018-12-18 Lined garment Withdrawn EP3729987A4 (en)

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PCT/JP2018/046613 WO2019124392A1 (en) 2017-12-18 2018-12-18 Lined garment

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JP3024300U (en) * 1995-11-01 1996-05-17 株式会社ワコール Sleeping clothes
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CN111432676A (en) 2020-07-17
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EP3729987A4 (en) 2021-03-31
JPWO2019124392A1 (en) 2020-10-22

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