JP6990716B2 - Lined clothing - Google Patents

Lined clothing Download PDF

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JP6990716B2
JP6990716B2 JP2019561123A JP2019561123A JP6990716B2 JP 6990716 B2 JP6990716 B2 JP 6990716B2 JP 2019561123 A JP2019561123 A JP 2019561123A JP 2019561123 A JP2019561123 A JP 2019561123A JP 6990716 B2 JP6990716 B2 JP 6990716B2
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lining
outer material
area
ventilation resistance
sleeve
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JPWO2019124392A1 (en
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知佐 吉澤
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Asahi Kasei Corp
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Asahi Kasei Corp
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/41Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific twist
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • A41D1/02Jackets
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00Garments
    • A41D1/06Trousers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02Linings
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/04Materials specially adapted for outerwear characterised by special function or use
    • A41D31/12Hygroscopic; Water retaining
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D03D15/225Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based artificial, e.g. viscose
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/52Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads thermal insulating, e.g. heating or cooling
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/02Underwear
    • D10B2501/021Hosiery; Panti-hose

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Thermal Sciences (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)

Description

本発明は裏地付き衣料に関する。 The present invention relates to lined garments.

春夏用の衣料、特にジャケット、パンツからなるスーツは、暑いと感じた時も都度脱ぐことができない場合もあるため、清涼機能が重要である。そこで、できるだけ表地を薄くしたり、裏地をメッシュ調にしたり、裏地を付けない仕様にするなど、清涼性を高める工夫がされている。しかしながら、表地が薄すぎて透けてしまう、破れてしまうなどの問題点や、裏地をメッシュにすることで、むしろ含気量が増え、断熱効果となる、裏地が付かないことによって、接触熱伝導性、及び吸湿・吸水といった汗処理性(以下、併せて熱水分移動特性ともいう。)が劣り、結果として温熱生理学的に清涼性が低下する、という問題がある。 Spring-summer clothing, especially suits consisting of jackets and pants, may not be able to be taken off each time it feels hot, so a refreshing function is important. Therefore, we have devised ways to improve the coolness, such as making the outer material as thin as possible, making the lining mesh-like, and making the specifications without lining. However, there are problems such as the outer material being too thin to be transparent or torn, and by using a mesh lining, the air content is rather increased, which provides a heat insulating effect. There is a problem that the properties and sweat treatment properties such as moisture absorption and water absorption (hereinafter, also referred to as heat-moisture transfer characteristics) are inferior, and as a result, the cooling property is deteriorated in terms of thermophysiology.

以下の特許文献1には、経糸及び緯糸の一方にポリエステル系繊維からなる仮撚未解撚糸を、他方にポリエステル系繊維からなる沸水処理後の捲縮率40%以上のサイドバイサイド型の捲縮糸を用いた裏地用織物が開示されている。しかしながら、該織物では、しゃり感による清涼感と滑り性を付与することで肌へのベタツキが改善されているものの、ポリエステル系繊維で構成されていることから、裏地の熱水分移動特性、含気量に考慮が無く、清涼性に問題がある。 In the following Patent Document 1, one of the warp and weft is a false twisted untwisted yarn made of polyester fiber, and the other is a side-by-side type crimped yarn made of polyester fiber and having a crimp ratio of 40% or more after boiling water treatment. The lining fabric using the above is disclosed. However, in the woven fabric, although the stickiness to the skin is improved by imparting a refreshing feeling and slipperiness due to a crunchy feeling, since it is composed of polyester fibers, the heat-moisture transfer characteristics of the lining, There is no consideration of the air content, and there is a problem with coolness.

また、以下の特許文献2には、経糸にセルロース系長繊維、緯糸にポリエステル系長繊維の仮撚糸を用いた裏地用織物が開示されている。
また、以下の特許文献3には、夏用の上着の前身と背部の後身頃にメッシュ又はネット調の裏地を配置して収納部を作り、折畳み収納に際しては折畳んだままで収納部に収納し、持ち運びに際して型崩れがないジャケットが開示されている。
しかしながら、特許文献2に開示された裏地用織物と特許文献3に開示されたジャケットにおいては、裏地の熱水分移動特性、裏地の通気抵抗と表地の通気抵抗の関係が考慮されておらず、清涼性は充分発現できていない。
Further, Patent Document 2 below discloses a lining woven fabric in which a cellulosic long fiber is used as a warp and a false twisted polyester long fiber is used as a weft.
Further, in Patent Document 3 below, a mesh or net-like lining is arranged on the front part of the jacket for summer and the back part of the back to make a storage part, and when folded and stored, it is stored in the storage part while folded. However, a jacket that does not lose its shape when carried is disclosed.
However, in the lining woven fabric disclosed in Patent Document 2 and the jacket disclosed in Patent Document 3, the relationship between the heat and moisture transfer characteristics of the lining, the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material is not taken into consideration. The refreshing property has not been sufficiently expressed.

また、以下の特許文献4には、夏用スーツ上下の裏地として、メッシュ裏地が開示され、ジャケットに関して、前裏の脇下領域、背裏の脇下領域、下袖裏の上部領域に該メッシュ裏地を用い、織物の裏地を境界で縫合し、袖の滑り感を損なわず着やすいジャケットとしての縫製方法が開示されている。しかしながら、特許文献4に開示されたメッシュ裏地、ジャケットに関して、メッシュ裏地、織物裏地のいずれでも、裏地の通気抵抗と表地の通気抵抗の関係、裏地の熱水分移動特性は考慮されておらず、ジャケットとしての清涼性は充分発現できていない。 Further, Patent Document 4 below discloses a mesh lining as the upper and lower linings of the summer suit, and the mesh is provided in the front back armpit area, the back back armpit area, and the upper sleeve back area with respect to the jacket. Disclosed is a sewing method as a jacket that is easy to wear without impairing the slippery feeling of the sleeves by sewing the lining of the woven fabric at the boundary using the lining. However, regarding the mesh lining and the jacket disclosed in Patent Document 4, the relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material and the heat-moisture transfer characteristics of the lining are not taken into consideration in any of the mesh lining and the woven fabric lining. The coolness as a jacket has not been fully expressed.

また、以下の特許文献4には、パンツにおいては、前述のメッシュ裏地と織物裏地を縫合し、膝の滑り感を損なわない膝裏としての縫製方法が開示されているものの、いずれの裏地も、裏地の通気抵抗と表地の通気抵抗との関係、裏地の熱水分移動特性に考慮が無く、パンツとしての清涼性が充分発現できていない。 Further, the following Patent Document 4 discloses, in pants, a sewing method as a knee lining in which the above-mentioned mesh lining and woven lining are sewn together so as not to impair the slippery feeling of the knee. The relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material and the heat-moisture transfer characteristics of the lining are not taken into consideration, and the coolness of the pants is not sufficiently exhibited.

また、以下の特許文献5には、夏用のパンツの前身にメッシュ又はネット調のひざ裏生地を配置して収納部を作り、折畳み収納に際しては折畳んだままで収納部に収納し、持ち運びに際して型崩れがないパンツが開示されているが、いずれも裏地通気抵抗、表地通気抵抗との関係、裏地の熱水分移動特性に考慮が無く、清涼性が充分発現できていない。 Further, in Patent Document 5 below, a mesh or net-like knee lining fabric is arranged on the predecessor of summer pants to form a storage portion, and when folded and stored, the storage portion is stored in the folded state and is carried. Pants that do not lose their shape are disclosed, but in each case, the relationship between the lining ventilation resistance and the outer material ventilation resistance and the heat-moisture transfer characteristics of the lining are not taken into consideration, and the cooling property is not sufficiently exhibited.

特許第4584762号公報Japanese Patent No. 4584762 国際公開第99/31309号International Publication No. 99/31309 実用新案登録第3088492号公報Utility Model Registration No. 3088492 特開2007-231490号公報Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2007-231490 実用新案登録第3102317号公報Utility Model Registration No. 3102317

前記した従来技術に鑑み、本発明が解決しようとする課題は、特に夏用の衣料、例えば、ジャケット、パンツの裏地の熱水分移動特性を最適化し、裏地の配置方法をさらに考慮することで、温熱生理学的にも官能においても清涼性を高めた裏地付き衣料を提供することである。 In view of the above-mentioned prior art, the problem to be solved by the present invention is to optimize the heat-moisture transfer characteristics of the lining of summer clothing, for example, jackets and pants, and further consider the lining arrangement method. It is to provide lined garments with enhanced thermal physiology and sensuality.

本発明者は、前記課題を解決すべく、鋭意検討し実験を重ねた結果、以下の要件を満たすことで、温熱生理学的にも、官能的にも、清涼性を高めた裏地付き衣料を提供することができることを見出した。具体的には、衣料最内層の裏地素材に熱伝導性や吸湿性が高いものを選択することが重要であることを明らかにした。 As a result of diligent studies and experiments in order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventor provides lined garments with improved thermal physiology and sensuality by satisfying the following requirements. I found that I could do it. Specifically, it was clarified that it is important to select a lining material for the innermost layer of clothing that has high thermal conductivity and hygroscopicity.

すなわち、本発明は、下記の通りのものである。
[1]少なくとも内腕かつ上腕の部分、前腕部分、又は、脚の両鼠蹊部から膝までの部分に相当する位置に、接触冷感値Qmaxが120W/m・℃以上であり、かつ、吸湿率Mが6.0%以上である織物である裏地が表地に固定されている、裏地付き衣料。
[2]前記裏地の目付が62g/m以上である、前記[1]に記載の裏地付き衣料。
[3]前記表地の裏面の接触冷感値Qmaxが150W/m・℃以上である、前記[1]又は[2]に記載の裏地付き衣料。
[4]前記衣料がジャケットであり、前記表地の袖部の面積の30%以上に前記裏地が固定されている、前記[1]~[3]のいずれかに記載の裏地付き衣料。
[5]前記表地の後身頃の面積の30%以上に前記裏地が固定されている、前記[4]に記載の裏地付き衣料。
[6]前記裏地の通気抵抗値RLが0.1kPa・s/m以下であり、かつ、前記表地の通気抵抗RSが前記裏地の通気抵抗値RLよりも高い、前記[4]又は[5]に記載の裏地付き衣料。
[7]前記裏地の空隙指数Vが1.0以上3.0以下である、前記[4]~[6]のいずれかに記載の裏地付き衣料。
[8]前記裏地の経糸と緯糸がいずれも、撚り係数Kfが4000~20000T/mである長繊維撚糸糸条である、前記[4]~[7]のいずれかに記載の裏地付き衣料。
[9]前記裏地が再生セルロース長繊維を含む、前記[3]~[7]のいずれかに記載の裏地付き衣料。
[10]前記衣料がパンツであり、前記表地の面積の30%以上に前記裏地が固定されている、前記[1]~[3]のいずれかに記載の裏地付き衣料。
[11]前記表地の前身頃の面積の50%以上に裏地が固定されている、前記[10]に記載の裏地付き衣料。
[12]前記裏地の通気抵抗値RLが0.1kPa・s/m以下であり、かつ、前記表地の通気抵抗RSが前記裏地の通気抵抗値RLよりも高い、前記[10]又は[11]に記載の裏地付き衣料。
[13]前記裏地の空隙指数Vが、1.0以上3.0以下である、前記[10]~[12]のいずれかに記載の裏地付き衣料。
[14]前記裏地が再生セルロース長繊維を含む、前記[10]~[13]のいずれかに記載の裏地付き衣料。
[15]前記裏地が前当て又は後ろ当てであり、前記表地と前記裏地の縫い代端が該裏地で覆われている、前記[10]~[14]のいずれかに記載の裏地付き衣料。
That is, the present invention is as follows.
[1] At least at a position corresponding to the inner arm and upper arm part, forearm part, or the part from both inguinal regions to the knee of the leg, the contact cooling sensation value Qmax is 120 W / m 2 · ° C. or higher, and Lined clothing in which the lining, which is a woven fabric having a moisture absorption rate M of 6.0% or more, is fixed to the outer material.
[2] The lining garment according to the above [1], wherein the lining has a basis weight of 62 g / m 2 or more.
[3] The lined clothing according to the above [1] or [2], wherein the contact cooling sensation value Qmax on the back surface of the outer material is 150 W / m 2 ° C. or higher.
[4] The lined garment according to any one of [1] to [3] above, wherein the garment is a jacket and the lining is fixed to 30% or more of the area of the sleeve portion of the outer material.
[5] The lined garment according to the above [4], wherein the lining is fixed to 30% or more of the area of the back body of the outer material.
[6] The above [4] or [5], wherein the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining is 0.1 kPa · s / m or less, and the ventilation resistance RS of the outer material is higher than the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining. Lined clothing as described in.
[7] The lined garment according to any one of [4] to [6] above, wherein the void index V of the lining is 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less.
[8] The lined garment according to any one of [4] to [7] above, wherein both the warp and weft of the lining are long fiber plyed yarns having a twisting coefficient Kf of 4000 to 20000 T / m.
[9] The lined garment according to any one of [3] to [7] above, wherein the lining contains regenerated cellulose filaments.
[10] The lined garment according to any one of [1] to [3], wherein the garment is pants and the lining is fixed to 30% or more of the area of the outer material.
[11] The lined garment according to the above [10], wherein the lining is fixed to 50% or more of the area of the front body of the outer material.
[12] The above [10] or [11], wherein the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining is 0.1 kPa · s / m or less, and the ventilation resistance RS of the outer material is higher than the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining. Lined clothing as described in.
[13] The lined garment according to any one of [10] to [12], wherein the void index V of the lining is 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less.
[14] The lined garment according to any one of [10] to [13] above, wherein the lining contains regenerated cellulose filaments.
[15] The lined garment according to any one of [10] to [14], wherein the lining is a front pad or a back pad, and the seam allowance end of the outer material and the lining is covered with the lining.

本発明に係る裏地付き衣料は、裏地素材の熱水分移動特性に加え、裏地の配置方法を適切にすることにより、温熱生理学的にも官能的にも清涼性を高めることができる。 The garment with a lining according to the present invention can enhance the cooling property both thermophysiologically and sensually by appropriately arranging the lining in addition to the heat-moisture transfer characteristics of the lining material.

背部のほぼ全面に裏地を配置(総裏仕様)のメンズ用ジャケット胴部型紙例を示す。表地の後身頃の面積に対する裏地面積率が約95%の例である。An example of a men's jacket body pattern with a lining placed on almost the entire back (total lining specification) is shown. This is an example in which the lining area ratio to the area of the back body of the outer material is about 95%. 背抜き仕様のメンズ用ジャケット胴部型紙例を示す。図2-1は表地の後身頃の面積に対する裏地面積率が約40%の例である。An example of a men's jacket body pattern with an unlined back is shown. FIG. 2-1 is an example in which the lining area ratio to the area of the back body of the outer material is about 40%. 背抜き仕様のメンズ用ジャケット胴部型紙例を示す。図2-2は表地の後身頃の面積に対する裏地面積率が約60%の例である。An example of a men's jacket body pattern with an unlined back is shown. Figure 2-2 shows an example in which the lining area ratio to the area of the back body of the outer material is about 60%. 半裏仕立てのメンズ用ジャケット胴部型紙例を示す。表地の後身頃の面積に対する裏地面積率が約30%の例である。An example of a semi-lined men's jacket body pattern is shown. This is an example in which the lining area ratio to the area of the back body of the outer material is about 30%. 背抜き仕様で且つ観音仕立てのメンズ用ジャケット胴部型紙例を示す。表地の後身頃の面積に対する裏地面積率が約40%の例である。An example of a men's jacket body pattern with a backless design and a Kannon style is shown. This is an example in which the lining area ratio to the area of the back body of the outer material is about 40%. メンズ用ジャケット袖部型紙例を示す。表地の袖部の面積に対する裏地面積率が約95%の例である(全袖仕様)。尚、本明細書、図面中、袖部の脇下に近い領域を上腕、袖部の末端に近い領域を前腕とし、上腕と前腕を合わせて全袖とする。また、袖部の体幹側の領域を内袖又は内腕、その反対の領域を外袖又は外腕とする。An example of a men's jacket sleeve pattern is shown. This is an example in which the lining area ratio to the sleeve area of the outer material is about 95% (all sleeve specifications). In the present specification and drawings, the region near the armpit of the sleeve is the upper arm, the region near the end of the sleeve is the forearm, and the upper arm and the forearm are combined to form the entire sleeve. The area of the sleeve on the trunk side is the inner sleeve or the inner arm, and the opposite area is the outer sleeve or the outer arm. メンズ用ジャケット袖部型紙例を示す。表地の袖部の面積に対する特定の裏地面積率が約60%の例である(上腕仕様)。尚、図6中、「その他袖裏」は、図7に示す前腕に相当する。An example of a men's jacket sleeve pattern is shown. This is an example in which the specific lining area ratio to the area of the sleeve part of the outer material is about 60% (upper arm specification). In FIG. 6, “other sleeve lining” corresponds to the forearm shown in FIG. 7. メンズ用ジャケット袖部型紙例を示す。表地の袖部の面積に対する特定の裏地面積率が約35%の例である(前腕仕様)。尚、図7中、「その他袖裏」は、図6に示す上腕に相当する。An example of a men's jacket sleeve pattern is shown. This is an example in which the specific lining area ratio to the area of the sleeve part of the outer material is about 35% (forearm specification). In FIG. 7, the “other sleeve lining” corresponds to the upper arm shown in FIG.

以下、本発明の実施形態を詳細に説明する。
本実施形態の衣料は、使用する裏地の物性及び配置方法に特徴がある。
本実施形態の衣料は、表地に接触冷感値Qmaxが120W/m・℃以上であり、かつ、吸湿率Mが6.0%以上である裏地が固定されている裏地付き衣料である。以下、かかる裏地を「特定の裏地」ともいう。
裏地では、衣料着用時、人体と接触する都度、熱伝導により人体産熱を有効に移行させる機能が重要であり、熱移動特性が高い素材を選定するとよい。具体的には、裏地の接触冷感値Qmaxは、120W/m・℃以上、好ましくは140W/m・℃以上、より好ましくは160W/m・℃以上である。
また、皮膚からの不感蒸泄を吸収し、蒸れ感を抑制するために、裏地として吸湿性の高い素材を選定し、この吸湿率Mは、6.0%以上であり、好ましくは8.0%以上、より好ましくは10%以上である。
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
The garment of the present embodiment is characterized by the physical characteristics of the lining used and the arrangement method.
The garment of the present embodiment is a garment with a lining having a contact cooling sensation value Qmax of 120 W / m 2 ° C. or higher and a hygroscopicity M of 6.0% or higher fixed to the outer material. Hereinafter, such lining is also referred to as "specific lining".
For the lining, it is important to have the function of effectively transferring heat generated by the human body by heat conduction each time it comes into contact with the human body when wearing clothing, so it is advisable to select a material with high heat transfer characteristics. Specifically, the contact cooling sensation value Qmax of the lining is 120 W / m 2 · ° C. or higher, preferably 140 W / m 2 · ° C. or higher, and more preferably 160 W / m 2 · ° C. or higher.
Further, in order to absorb insensitive evaporation from the skin and suppress the feeling of stuffiness, a material having high hygroscopicity is selected as the lining, and the hygroscopicity M is 6.0% or more, preferably 8.0. % Or more, more preferably 10% or more.

本実施形態の衣料がジャケットの場合、表地の袖部(袖表地)において、前記特定の裏地が、少なくとも動脈に近い内腕かつ上腕、又は、動静脈吻合に近い手首及び前腕に相当する位置に配置されていることが好ましい。ジャケットの下に半袖シャツを着用する場合は、肌に接触する前腕に特定の裏地を配置することが特に好ましい。袖部は、比表面積が大きく、熱放散性が高い上肢を覆うパーツであり、清涼性への寄与が大きい。 When the garment of the present embodiment is a jacket, in the sleeve portion (sleeve outer material) of the outer material, the specific lining is at least at a position corresponding to the inner arm and the upper arm close to the artery, or the wrist and the forearm close to the arteriovenous anastomosis. It is preferable that it is arranged. If a short-sleeved shirt is worn under the jacket, it is particularly preferred to place a specific lining on the forearm that comes into contact with the skin. The sleeve is a part that covers the upper limbs, which has a large specific surface area and high heat dissipation, and contributes greatly to coolness.

本実施形態の衣料がジャケットの場合は、裏地の配置については、前記特定の裏地が、表地の袖部の面積の30%以上に配されていることが好ましく、より好ましくは40%以上、さらに好ましくは60%以上、よりさらに好ましくは90%以上である。「特定の裏地」を表地の袖部の面積の30%以上の領域に用いるとき、それ以外の部分、例えば、図6、7における「その他袖裏」には、当該「特定の裏地」以外の裏地を使ってもよい。一般に、前腕だけに裏地を付けることは困難であるため、図7に示すように、前腕に特定の裏地を配する場合、上腕にも裏地を配することが好ましい。 When the garment of the present embodiment is a jacket, regarding the arrangement of the lining, it is preferable that the specific lining is arranged in 30% or more of the area of the sleeve portion of the outer material, more preferably 40% or more, and further. It is preferably 60% or more, and even more preferably 90% or more. When the "specific lining" is used for an area of 30% or more of the area of the sleeve portion of the outer material, other parts, for example, the "other sleeve lining" in FIGS. You may use the lining. In general, it is difficult to lining only the forearm. Therefore, as shown in FIG. 7, when a specific lining is arranged on the forearm, it is preferable to arrange the lining on the upper arm as well.

本実施形態のジャケットにおいては、胴部の一部又は全体に前記特定の裏地を配することができ、総裏仕様(前身頃、脇身頃、後身頃、袖のほぼ全面に配置)が好ましい。本実施形態のジャケットの裏地は、表地の後身頃(背部ともいう)の面積の30%を占めていることが好ましく、より好ましくは40%以上、さらに好ましくは60%以上、よりさらに好ましくは90%以上である。
裏地を後身頃に配置する場合、図1に示す背部全面(面積比90%以上)の仕様、図2-1、図2-2に示す背抜き仕様、図3に示す半裏仕様、図4に示す背抜き観音仕様のいずれでもよく、表地の後身頃の面積の30%以上に配置されていることが好ましい。特に背部全面に配置される仕様は、背中心のパイピング作業が省略できる利点がある。更に、後身頃の裏地は、後身頃の表地面積の30%以上を、体幹に近い肩部から襟部に優先的に用いられることがより好ましい。前身頃及び脇身頃にも配置すると、着用時、表地裏面や縫い代のチクチク感、ごろつきを防ぐことができるなどの利点があり、また、吸湿性が高まるため好ましい。特に、ボタンをとめて着用するのが礼儀とされるメンズジャケットにおいては、裏地により、閉鎖的な衣環境における湿度処理機能が必要とされる。脇部(脇身頃)、前部(前身頃)に配置される裏地は特に限定されず、背部(後身頃)と同一でも異なっていてもよい。
In the jacket of the present embodiment, the specific lining can be arranged on a part or the whole of the body, and the total lining specification (arranged on almost the entire front body, side body, back body, and sleeves) is preferable. The lining of the jacket of the present embodiment preferably occupies 30% of the area of the back body (also referred to as the back) of the outer material, more preferably 40% or more, still more preferably 60% or more, still more preferably 90. % Or more.
When the lining is placed on the back body, the specifications of the entire back (area ratio of 90% or more) shown in FIG. 1, the unlined specifications shown in FIGS. 2-1 and 2-2, the semi-lining specifications shown in FIG. 3, and the specifications shown in FIG. Any of the unlined Kannon specifications shown may be used, and it is preferable that the material is arranged in 30% or more of the area of the back body of the outer material. In particular, the specifications placed on the entire back have the advantage that the piping work at the center of the back can be omitted. Further, it is more preferable that the lining of the back body preferentially uses 30% or more of the outer material area of the back body from the shoulder portion close to the trunk to the collar portion. Placing it on the front body and the side body has advantages such as the tingling sensation of the back surface of the outer material and the seam allowance and the prevention of thugs when worn, and is preferable because it enhances hygroscopicity. In particular, men's jackets, which are polite to be worn with buttons down, require a humidity control function in a closed clothing environment due to the lining. The lining arranged on the armpits (armpits) and the front (front body) is not particularly limited, and may be the same as or different from the back (rear body).

本実施形態の衣料がパンツの場合は、前記特定の裏地が、脚の両鼠蹊部から膝までの部分に配されていることが好ましい。下肢、特に鼠蹊部や大腿前上部は熱放散効率が高いため、前記部分に特定の裏地を配置することは温熱生理学的にも最適である。 When the garment of the present embodiment is pants, it is preferable that the specific lining is arranged from both inguinal regions of the legs to the knees. Since the lower limbs, especially the inguinal region and the anterior upper thigh, have high heat dissipation efficiency, it is optimal for thermophysiology to place a specific lining on the above portion.

本実施形態のパンツは、特定の裏地が表地の面積の20%以上に配置されていることが好ましく、より好ましくは30%以上であり、また、前身頃の面積の40%以上に配置されていることが好ましく、より好ましくは50%以上である。特定の裏地の配置は、総裏仕様、前当て仕様、後ろ当て仕様でもよいが、総裏仕様は表地のチクチク感や表地縫代の摩擦を防ぐことができるうえ、下肢全体の不感蒸泄を処理することができるため、より好ましい。前当てか後ろ当てのいずれかの部分仕様とする場合は、前当て仕様にすることが好ましい。その理由は、前当て仕様の場合は、歩くたびに皮膚と裏地とが接触し、熱交換効率が高くなるためである。裏地の丈については、膝動作性向上の観点から、膝下までの長さがあることが好ましい。また、膝下まであれば、歩行や座位等の動作時においても、効果的に大腿部と接触することができる。 In the pants of the present embodiment, the specific lining is preferably arranged in 20% or more of the area of the outer material, more preferably 30% or more, and 40% or more of the area of the front body. It is preferably 50% or more, more preferably 50% or more. The specific lining may be arranged in full lining, front pad, or back pad, but the total lining can prevent the outer material from tingling and the outer seam allowance from rubbing, and it also prevents insensitive evaporation of the entire lower limbs. It is more preferable because it can be processed. When the partial specifications of either the front pad or the back pad are used, it is preferable to use the front pad specifications. The reason is that in the case of the front pad specification, the skin and the lining come into contact with each other each time the walk is performed, and the heat exchange efficiency is increased. The length of the lining is preferably a length below the knee from the viewpoint of improving knee operability. In addition, if it is below the knee, it can effectively contact the thigh even during movements such as walking and sitting.

長時間着用における衣服内の湿度上昇を抑制するためには、水蒸気移行性を考慮し、衣料最内層にある裏地の通気抵抗値RLは、0.1kPa・s/m以下であり、かつ、表地の通気抵抗RSが裏地の通気抵抗値RLよりも高くする、換言すれば、裏地の通気抵抗RLを表地の通気抵抗RSよりも低く(小さく)する、すなわちRL<RSとすることが好ましい。裏地の通気抵抗RLは、より好ましくは0.05kPa・s/m以下である。 In order to suppress the rise in humidity inside the garment when worn for a long time, the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining in the innermost layer of the garment is 0.1 kPa · s / m or less and the outer material in consideration of water vapor transferability. It is preferable that the ventilation resistance RS of the lining is higher than the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining, in other words, the ventilation resistance RL of the lining is lower (smaller) than the ventilation resistance RS of the outer material, that is, RL <RS. The ventilation resistance RL of the lining is more preferably 0.05 kPa · s / m or less.

裏地の通気抵抗RLについては、0.1kPa・s/mを超えると長時間の着用において水蒸気移行性が乏しく、素材の吸湿性のみでは蒸れ感を抑制できない。また、裏地の通気抵抗RLが表地の通気抵抗RSよりも高いと、最内層の水蒸気が効果的に排出されず、水蒸気が留まりやすくなる。従って、RLが0.1kPa・s/m以下、且つ、RL<RSを満たすことが好ましい。裏地の通気抵抗を下げる定法としては、単に構成糸条の密度を下げる他に、長繊維の場合、構成糸条を収束させ、糸に撚り又は捲縮を加える、短繊維の場合、撚り係数を高めに設定する等がある。 Regarding the ventilation resistance RL of the lining, if it exceeds 0.1 kPa · s / m, the water vapor transferability is poor when worn for a long time, and the hygroscopicity of the material alone cannot suppress the feeling of stuffiness. Further, when the ventilation resistance RL of the lining is higher than the ventilation resistance RS of the outer material, the water vapor in the innermost layer is not effectively discharged, and the water vapor tends to stay. Therefore, it is preferable that the RL is 0.1 kPa · s / m or less and RL <RS is satisfied. As a standard method for reducing the ventilation resistance of the lining, in addition to simply reducing the density of the constituent yarns, in the case of long fibers, the constituent yarns are converged and twisted or crimped, and in the case of short fibers, the twist coefficient is used. There are things like setting it higher.

所望の熱水分移動特性を達成するためには、裏地の含気量を考慮した空隙指数V、すなわち、二次元的な空隙率から算出した空隙面積と厚みの乗算値から求められる空隙指数Vが1.0以上3.0以下であることが好ましい。 In order to achieve the desired heat-moisture transfer characteristics, the void index V considering the air content of the lining, that is, the void index V obtained from the product of the void area and the thickness calculated from the two-dimensional porosity. Is preferably 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less.

裏地に空隙を過剰に与えると、通気抵抗は大きく下がるものの、含気量が多く断熱効果が高まり、接触による熱移動が作用しにくくなる傾向にある。従って、熱伝導性と水蒸気移行性を両立するためには、空隙指数Vをコントロールすることが重要である。
布帛の空隙率は、一般的にカバーファクター(繊維占有率)から算出する等、二次元でとらえるのが定法であったが、本発明者は含気量を考慮した空隙指数Vが重要であり、三次元、つまり二次元的な空隙率から算出される空隙面積と厚みの乗算値でとらえられることを明らかにした。この空隙指数Vは前述の通り、熱伝導性と水蒸気移行性の両立のため長時間での着用を想定する場合、1.0以上3.0以下であることが好ましい。3.0を超えると、水蒸気移行性は達成しても、含気量が多く断熱効果が高まることがある。他方、1.0を下回ると、含気量が少ないため断熱効果は低減できるが、水蒸気移行性が達成できないことがある。
If an excessive amount of voids is given to the lining, the ventilation resistance is greatly reduced, but the air content is large and the heat insulating effect is enhanced, and the heat transfer due to contact tends to be difficult to act. Therefore, it is important to control the void index V in order to achieve both thermal conductivity and water vapor transferability.
Generally, the porosity of a cloth is calculated from the cover factor (fiber occupancy), and it is a standard method to grasp it in two dimensions. , It was clarified that it can be grasped by the multiplication value of the void area and the thickness calculated from the three-dimensional, that is, the two-dimensional porosity. As described above, the void index V is preferably 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less when it is assumed to be worn for a long time in order to achieve both thermal conductivity and water vapor transferability. If it exceeds 3.0, even if the water vapor transferability is achieved, the air content is large and the heat insulating effect may be enhanced. On the other hand, when it is less than 1.0, the heat insulating effect can be reduced because the air content is small, but the water vapor transferability may not be achieved.

通気抵抗を0.1以下、且つ、空隙指数Vを1.0以上3.0以下にコントロールするためには、構成糸条の密度と形態、(空隙率につながる)に加えて、厚み(空隙率に乗算し、空隙指数)を考慮する必要がある。通気抵抗を下げるため、単に糸条を収束させると、糸条収束による厚み増は空隙量も増大させることから、厚み増は必要最小限に留める必要があり、同時に、構成糸条自体の含気量も低減することが望ましい。
空隙指数Vを減ずるために、裏地の厚みを小さくすることが好ましく、そのためには糸条製造技術の他に、裏地の最終仕上げ工程にてコールドカレンダーやホットカレンダー等を併用し、厚みを10%から20%低減するとなおよい。これにより、空隙量を減じる効果だけではなく、平滑にすることで、接触冷感性、熱伝導性を高めることができる。
In order to control the ventilation resistance to 0.1 or less and the void index V to 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less, in addition to the density and morphology of the constituent yarns (leading to the porosity), the thickness (void). It is necessary to multiply the rate and consider the void index). In order to reduce the ventilation resistance, if the threads are simply converged, the increase in thickness due to the convergence of the threads also increases the amount of voids. It is desirable to reduce the amount as well.
In order to reduce the void index V, it is preferable to reduce the thickness of the lining. For that purpose, in addition to the thread manufacturing technology, a cold calendar, hot calendar, etc. are used together in the final finishing process of the lining to reduce the thickness to 10%. It is even better to reduce it by 20%. As a result, not only the effect of reducing the amount of voids but also the smoothing of the voids can enhance the cool contact feeling and the thermal conductivity.

裏地のQmaxを120W/m・℃以上にするためには、構成繊維として、毛羽を有する短繊維よりも毛羽の少ない短繊維、更には毛羽のない長繊維を用いることが好ましい。毛羽が多いと熱移動の妨げとなる。従って、短繊維を用いる場合、単糸繊度は2dtex以下が好ましく、繊維長は25mm以上が好ましく、より好ましくは38mm以上である、比較的繊維長が長い短繊維を選定するとよい。短繊維の太さは、好ましくは40番手~60番手(綿番手)、より好ましくは50番手~60番手である。撚数は糸の硬さ、風合いの面から20回/inch~30回/inchが好ましい。また、以下の式:
撚り係数Ks(sは短繊維を示す)=撚数(回/inch)/綿番手0.5
で計算される撚り係数Ksは3~4であることが好ましい。撚係数Ksが3~4であれば、より収束しやすく、含気量を抑制することができる。
In order to make the Qmax of the lining 120 W / m 2 · ° C. or higher, it is preferable to use short fibers having less fluff than short fibers having fluff, and further long fibers without fluff as constituent fibers. If there is a lot of fluff, it will hinder heat transfer. Therefore, when using short fibers, it is preferable to select short fibers having a relatively long fiber length, preferably a single yarn fineness of 2 dtex or less, a fiber length of 25 mm or more, and more preferably 38 mm or more. The thickness of the short fibers is preferably 40 to 60 (cotton), and more preferably 50 to 60. The number of twists is preferably 20 times / inch to 30 times / inch in terms of yarn hardness and texture. In addition, the following formula:
Twist coefficient Ks (s indicates staple fiber) = number of twists (times / inch) / cotton count 0.5
The twist coefficient Ks calculated in is preferably 3 to 4. When the twist coefficient Ks is 3 to 4, it is easier to converge and the air content can be suppressed.

裏地を構成する繊維として長繊維を用いる場合、ヤーンの繊度が30dtex以上130dtex以下の繊維を選定することが好ましい。30dtex以上130tex以下にすることで、耐摩擦、引裂き等の強度物性と、柔らかさ等の風合い特性とのバランスを保つことができる。30dtex未満では摩擦や引き裂き強度に劣り、他方、130dtexを超えると、風合いが硬くなる。単繊維の断面形状については、皮膚とアウターとの摩擦を低減する観点から、三角や十字等の角のある形状よりも、丸や楕円等が好ましい。単糸繊度は、細いほど生地が柔らかくなることから、4dtex以下であることが好ましい。構成糸条の形態は、単一素材でも二種以上素材を予め複合しても、機上で複合しても、一本交互等の複合使用でもよいが、表面の平滑性が低い仮撚加工糸、エア交絡糸よりは、平滑性が高く充填度の高い原糸、撚糸が好ましい。また、繊維内水分率が高い素材は熱伝導性が高いため好適である。裏地を構成する素材例としては、例えば、セルロース系繊維では、天然繊維の綿、麻、再生セルロース繊維のビスコースレーヨン、銅アンモニウムレーヨン(キュプラアンモニウムレーヨン、キュプラ、ベンベルグ(登録商標)ともいう)、精製セルロース、半合成繊維のアセテート等が挙げられ、合成繊維では、ナイロン、ポリエステル等が挙げられる。ポリマー中に熱伝導性が高い金属酸化物等を練り込むと、熱伝導性をより高めることができる。 When long fibers are used as the fibers constituting the lining, it is preferable to select fibers having a yarn fineness of 30 dtex or more and 130 dtex or less. By setting the content to 30 dtex or more and 130 tex or less, it is possible to maintain a balance between strength physical properties such as abrasion resistance and tearing and texture characteristics such as softness. If it is less than 30 dtex, the friction and tear strength are inferior, while if it exceeds 130 dtex, the texture becomes hard. As for the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber, from the viewpoint of reducing the friction between the skin and the outer, a round or an ellipse is preferable to a shape having a corner such as a triangle or a cross. The single yarn fineness is preferably 4 dtex or less because the finer the fabric, the softer the fabric. The form of the constituent yarns may be a single material, two or more kinds of materials combined in advance, combined on a machine, or combined use such as alternating one yarn, but false twisting with low surface smoothness. Raw yarns and twisted yarns having high smoothness and high filling degree are preferable to yarns and air entangled yarns. Further, a material having a high water content in the fiber is suitable because it has high thermal conductivity. Examples of materials constituting the lining include, for example, cotton and linen of natural fibers, cuprammonium rayon of recycled cellulose fibers, and cuprammonium rayon (also referred to as cupraammonium rayon, cupra, and Bemberg (registered trademark)) for cellulose-based fibers. Examples thereof include purified cellulose and acetate of semi-synthetic fiber, and examples of synthetic fiber include nylon and polyester. By kneading a metal oxide or the like having high thermal conductivity into the polymer, the thermal conductivity can be further enhanced.

裏地の吸湿性を達成するためにも、前述のセルロース系繊維を含むことが好ましい。ポリマー中の疎水基を、吸湿性を示す親水基で改質するのもよい。
中でも繊維内水分率が高いことから熱伝導性が高い、再生セルロース繊維が最も好ましい。セルロース系繊維の混率は、裏地重量の30%以上であることが好ましく、40%以上、更には50%以上であると吸湿性が高まりより好ましい。セルロース系繊維が30%未満になると、吸湿性が不足し、蒸れを感じやすくなる。セルロース系繊維は、カレンダー工程後にテカリやギラツキ、熱融着が生じにくいため合成繊維よりも好ましく、中でも、再生セルロース繊維を30重量%以上、より好ましくは40重量%以上含むとよい。再生セルロース繊維が、長繊維糸条であれば糸条内の含気量も抑制でき、なおよい。
In order to achieve hygroscopicity of the lining, it is preferable to contain the above-mentioned cellulosic fibers. Hydrophobic groups in the polymer may be modified with hydrophilic groups exhibiting hygroscopicity.
Of these, regenerated cellulose fiber, which has high thermal conductivity because of its high water content in the fiber, is most preferable. The mixing ratio of the cellulosic fibers is preferably 30% or more, more preferably 40% or more, and more preferably 50% or more of the weight of the lining, because the hygroscopicity is increased. When the cellulosic fiber content is less than 30%, the hygroscopicity is insufficient and it becomes easy to feel stuffiness. Cellulose-based fibers are more preferable than synthetic fibers because they are less likely to cause shine, glare, and heat fusion after the calendar process, and among them, regenerated cellulose fibers are preferably contained in an amount of 30% by weight or more, more preferably 40% by weight or more. If the regenerated cellulose fiber is a long fiber yarn, the air content in the yarn can be suppressed, which is even better.

構成糸として長繊維を用いると、短繊維よりも相対的に糸条内の含気量が少ないのでより好ましい。合成繊維の仮撚加工糸を用いることもできるが、この場合、糸条のトータル繊度を130dtex以下、より好ましくは84dtex以下、さらに好ましくは56dtex以下とし、且つ、嵩高にならないよう、仮撚数、ヒーター温度、糸速等を調整し、捲縮伸長率(JIS-L-1090合成繊維嵩高加工糸試験方法、5.7伸縮法B法に基づく)を20%以下とした低捲縮糸を選定するのがよい。捲縮伸長率は5%~10%が最も好ましい。二種以上の糸条を予めエア交絡した後、追撚する方法を用いると、より一層含気量を抑制できるため、なおよい。なお、仮撚加工糸として、少なくとも経糸は、糸長方向に加撚時の撚り状態を保持している部分(いわゆる「未解撚部分」)と、解撚作用が集中して形成された解撚と同一方向の撚りとなっている過剰解撚部分とを有している融着延伸仮撚加工糸ではない方が好ましい。融着延伸仮撚加工糸は、未解撚部と過剰解撚部の共存で、嵩高な構造となりやすく、含気量が高く、断熱効果が高いためである。
なお、本実施形態の衣料においては、裏地を構成する織物の経糸が、ジャケットの袖であれば略腕の長さ方向、ジャケットの胴部やパンツであれば略身長方向に配向して固定されていることを想定している。
It is more preferable to use long fibers as the constituent yarns because the air content in the yarns is relatively smaller than that of the short fibers. False twisted yarns made of synthetic fibers can also be used, but in this case, the total fineness of the yarns is 130 dtex or less, more preferably 84 dtex or less, further preferably 56 dtex or less, and the number of false twists so as not to be bulky. Select a low crimp yarn with a crimp elongation rate (JIS-L-1090 synthetic fiber bulk processed yarn test method, 5.7 expansion and contraction method B method) of 20% or less by adjusting the heater temperature, yarn speed, etc. It is better to do it. The crimp extension rate is most preferably 5% to 10%. It is even more preferable to use a method in which two or more kinds of yarns are air-entangled in advance and then twisted, because the air content can be further suppressed. As the false twisted yarn, at least the warp yarn is formed by concentrating the untwisting action on the portion (so-called “untwisted portion”) that maintains the twisted state at the time of twisting in the yarn length direction. It is preferable that the yarn is not a fusion-stretched false-twisted yarn having an excessively untwisted portion that is twisted in the same direction as the twist. This is because the fused-stretched false twisted yarn tends to have a bulky structure due to the coexistence of an untwisted portion and an excessively untwisted portion, has a high air content, and has a high heat insulating effect.
In the garment of the present embodiment, the warps of the woven fabric constituting the lining are oriented and fixed in the substantially arm length direction for the sleeves of the jacket and in the substantially height direction for the jacket body and pants. It is assumed that it is.

撚糸は、糸条中の空気を排除することで含気量を抑制できるため好ましい。単一素材による撚糸、二種以上の糸条を合撚して得た合撚糸でもよいが、裏地を構成する経糸、緯糸の少なくともいずれか一方は撚糸であることが好ましく、両方が撚糸であることがより好ましい。また、撚糸は、以下の式:
撚り係数Kf(fは長繊維を示す)=撚数(回/m)×繊度0.5
で計算される撚り係数Kfが4000~20000であることが好ましく、より好ましくは4500~20000、さらに好ましくは5000~18000である。撚り係数Kfを4000~20000に設定すると、より収束しやすく、含気量を抑制できる。撚糸作製時は、撚り止めセット条件温度を高く、時間を長めに設定するとよい。好ましい条件は、セット温度70℃~90℃、セット時間は一回なら40~60分、二回なら20分~30分、セルロース系繊維は、セット温度は80℃~90℃と高めに設定することが好ましい。セット時間は二回実施することが好ましい。機上で原糸と撚糸、原糸と仮撚加工糸と、仮撚加工糸と撚糸を併用することも可能であるが、糸条内の含気量が少ない、撚糸と撚糸の組み合わせが最もよい。仮撚加工糸よりも仮撚追撚、撚糸、更には強撚の方が、糸条内の含気量が低減できるため好ましい。
Plyed yarn is preferable because the air content can be suppressed by removing air from the yarn. Plyed yarns made of a single material or twisted yarns obtained by twisting two or more kinds of yarns may be used, but at least one of the warp and wefts constituting the lining is preferably twisted yarns, and both are twisted yarns. Is more preferable. In addition, the twisted yarn has the following formula:
Twist coefficient Kf (f indicates long fiber) = number of twists (times / m) x fineness 0.5
The twist coefficient Kf calculated in 1 is preferably 4000 to 20000, more preferably 4500 to 20000, and further preferably 5000 to 18000. When the twist coefficient Kf is set to 4000 to 20000, it is easier to converge and the air content can be suppressed. When producing the plyed yarn, it is advisable to set the anti-twist set condition temperature high and the time longer. Preferred conditions are a set temperature of 70 ° C. to 90 ° C., a set time of 40 to 60 minutes once, a set time of 20 minutes to 30 minutes twice, and a set temperature of 80 ° C. to 90 ° C. for cellulosic fibers. Is preferable. The set time is preferably carried out twice. It is possible to use raw yarn and twisted yarn, raw yarn and false twisted yarn, and false twisted yarn and twisted yarn together on the machine, but the combination of twisted yarn and twisted yarn, which has a small air content in the yarn, is the most. good. False twist additional twist, twisted yarn, and even strong twist are preferable to false twisted yarn because the air content in the yarn can be reduced.

本実施形態の衣料に用いる裏地は、目付が50g/m以上が好ましく、60g/m以上がより好ましく、62g/m以上が更に好ましい。50g/m未満になると強度等の物性が低くなる場合がある。また、本実施形態の衣料に用いる裏地の目付は100g/m以下が好ましく、85g/m以下がより好ましく、80g/m以下が更に好ましい。100g/mを超えると裏地が厚ぼったくなる場合がある。The lining used for the garment of the present embodiment preferably has a basis weight of 50 g / m 2 or more, more preferably 60 g / m 2 or more, and further preferably 62 g / m 2 or more. If it is less than 50 g / m 2 , physical properties such as strength may be lowered. The basis weight of the lining used for the clothing of the present embodiment is preferably 100 g / m 2 or less, more preferably 85 g / m 2 or less, and even more preferably 80 g / m 2 or less. If it exceeds 100 g / m 2 , the lining may become thick.

本実施形態の衣料に用いる裏地の組織は、特に限定はなく、通常の織機を用いて製造することができる。織物の組織としては、平織、綾織、朱子織、その変化組織等が挙げられる。 The structure of the lining used for the garment of the present embodiment is not particularly limited, and can be produced using a normal loom. Examples of the texture of the woven fabric include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and its changing texture.

製織後の後加工は、精練、プレセット、染色、仕上げ加工の順で行うとよいが、この限りではない。精練は、一般的なオープンソーパー型の拡布連続精練機が好ましく用いられる。精練時の温度は40℃~90℃の範囲で、乾燥温度は100℃~195℃の範囲で適宜選定すればよい。
プレセットは、ピンテンター型の処理機にて150℃~195℃の範囲で適宜選定すればよい。また、セット幅は、精練・乾燥後の幅から適宜選定すればよい。
染色は、液流染色法やビーム染色法、ジッガー染色法、拡布連続型のコールドパッドバッチ染色法、パッドスチーム染色方法でもよく、上記染色方法を組み合わせてもよい。また、染色工程を削減するために原着糸を使用してもよい。
仕上げ加工は、拡布状態で行うことが好ましく、セルロース系繊維使用の場合は、防縮や防皺を目的として、ノンホルマリン系樹脂加工を施すとよい。この場合、樹脂加工剤に加えて柔軟剤、撥水剤やスリップ防止剤を適宜添加しても構わない。前述のカレンダー加工については、厚み低減、平滑性、接触冷感性を高めるために好ましく用いられ、ホットカレンダー加工の場合は、なお一層、平滑性、接触冷感性向上効果が高まる。好ましいカレンダー圧は0.1MPa~0.5MPa、より好ましくは、0.2MPa~0.3MPa、好ましいホットカレンダー温度は80℃~110℃、より好ましくは90℃~100℃であるとよい。
Post-processing after weaving may be performed in the order of scouring, presetting, dyeing, and finishing, but this is not the case. For scouring, a general open soaper type spreading continuous scouring machine is preferably used. The temperature at the time of scouring may be appropriately selected in the range of 40 ° C. to 90 ° C., and the drying temperature may be appropriately selected in the range of 100 ° C. to 195 ° C.
The preset may be appropriately selected in the range of 150 ° C. to 195 ° C. with a pin tenter type processing machine. Further, the set width may be appropriately selected from the width after scouring and drying.
The staining may be a liquid flow staining method, a beam staining method, a jigger staining method, a continuous spreading cold pad batch staining method, a pad steam staining method, or a combination of the above staining methods. In addition, a raw yarn may be used to reduce the dyeing process.
The finishing process is preferably performed in a spread state, and when a cellulosic fiber is used, a non-formalin resin process may be applied for the purpose of shrinkage prevention and wrinkle prevention. In this case, a softener, a water repellent agent or an anti-slip agent may be appropriately added in addition to the resin processing agent. The above-mentioned calendar processing is preferably used to reduce the thickness, smoothness, and cold contact feeling, and in the case of hot calendar processing, the smoothness and cold contact feeling are further enhanced. The preferred calendar pressure is 0.1 MPa to 0.5 MPa, more preferably 0.2 MPa to 0.3 MPa, and the preferred hot calendar temperature is 80 ° C. to 110 ° C., more preferably 90 ° C. to 100 ° C.

本実施形態の衣料の裏地は、表地の少なくとも一部分に固定されていればよく、裏地の隅全てが表地と固定されていてもよい。表地への裏地の固定方法は、縫製に限定されるものではなく、接着でもよい。裏地を本縫いミシンで縫製する場合には、縫製部位強度保持、ヒケ防止の面から、4針~5針/1cmのピッチで縫うことが好ましい。本縫製方法をA法とする。なお、本実施形態においては、前身頃、襟、袖口、脇等に芯地等の副資材を適宜利用してよい。
本実施形態の衣料がパンツであり、前当てか後ろ当てのいずれかの部分使用とする場合、表地と裏地の縫い代端が裏地で覆われていると、表地と裏地の縫い代が皮膚に接触、摩擦せず、不快に感じることが少ないため、好ましい。表地と裏地の縫い代端が裏地で覆われるようにするためには、表地を中表にして、両脇を縫い、裏地を外表にし、表地を中表にして縫製した縫い代に、表地の縫い目よりも外側に重ねるように縫い、最終的には裏地を一番上に三枚重ねてひっくり返しにする方法(この縫製方法をB法とする)で、裏地の表側を最内層としたパンツに縫い仕上げることができる。この方法で縫うと、表地と裏地を縫い込む通常の縫い方(定法)に比べ、パンツ脇部のパッカリングを防ぐことができ、縫い目が美しいパンツとなり、また、着用感を向上させるという効果もある。何故なら、定法では、厚みや伸度の違う表地と裏地を縫い合わせるため、厚みや伸度差によりパッカリングが、更には伸度差により動作時の伸び不足が伴うことがあるためである。
The lining of the garment of the present embodiment may be fixed to at least a part of the outer material, and all the corners of the lining may be fixed to the outer material. The method of fixing the lining to the outer material is not limited to sewing, and may be adhesive. When the lining is sewn with a lockstitch sewing machine, it is preferable to sew at a pitch of 4 to 5 stitches / 1 cm from the viewpoint of maintaining the strength of the sewn area and preventing sink marks. The lockstitching method is the A method. In this embodiment, auxiliary materials such as interlining may be appropriately used for the front body, collar, cuffs, armpits and the like.
When the garment of the present embodiment is pants and either the front pad or the back pad is used, if the seam allowance ends of the outer material and the lining are covered with the lining, the seam allowance of the outer material and the lining comes into contact with the skin. It is preferable because it does not rub and does not feel uncomfortable. In order to cover the seam allowances of the outer and lining with the lining, the seam allowance sewn with the outer material on the inside, both sides sewn, the lining on the outside, and the outer material on the inside, from the seam of the outer material. Sew it so that it overlaps the outside, and finally sew it on the pants with the front side of the lining as the innermost layer by the method of stacking three linings on top and turning it over (this sewing method is called method B). Can be finished. When sewn by this method, it is possible to prevent puckering on the side of the pants compared to the normal sewing method (standard method) in which the outer material and lining are sewn, and the pants have beautiful seams and also have the effect of improving the wearing feeling. be. This is because, in the conventional method, since the outer material and the lining having different thicknesses and elongations are sewn together, puckering may occur due to the difference in thickness and elongation, and further, insufficient elongation during operation may occur due to the difference in elongation.

本実施形態の衣料の表地の素材や、短繊維、長繊維等の繊維の物理形態について限定はないが、前記した裏地の通気抵抗と表地の通気抵抗の相対関係を満たすことが好ましい。また、吸湿性が比較的高い素材、例えば、ウール、シルク等の動物繊維、セルロース系繊維や、半合成繊維ではアセテート系繊維が混用されていることが好ましい。合成繊維では、ポリアミド系繊維、吸湿性が改質されたポリエステル系繊維等も挙げられ、これらと吸湿性の高い繊維との混紡、混繊形態でも構わない。また、表地の裏面の接触冷感値Qmaxが高いと、特に裏地が付かない部分での清涼感向上効果が得られるため、好ましい。表地の裏面のQmaxとしては、120W/m・℃以上が好ましく、140W/m・℃以上がより好ましく、150W/m・℃以上がさらに好ましい。尚、表地の裏面の接触冷感値Qmaxを高めるための方法としては、表地の裏面へのカレンダー加工が挙げられる。この場合、審美性の観点より、裏面のみカレンダー加工することが好ましい。The material of the outer material of the garment of the present embodiment and the physical form of the fibers such as staple fibers and long fibers are not limited, but it is preferable to satisfy the relative relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material described above. Further, it is preferable that a material having a relatively high moisture absorption property, for example, an animal fiber such as wool or silk, a cellulosic fiber, or a semi-synthetic fiber contains an acetate fiber. Examples of the synthetic fiber include a polyamide fiber and a polyester fiber having a modified hygroscopicity, and a blended spinning or a mixed fiber form of these and a fiber having a high hygroscopicity may be used. Further, when the contact cooling sensation value Qmax on the back surface of the outer material is high, the effect of improving the refreshing sensation can be obtained particularly in the portion where the lining is not attached, which is preferable. The Qmax on the back surface of the outer material is preferably 120 W / m 2 ° C or higher, more preferably 140 W / m 2 ° C or higher, and even more preferably 150 W / m 2 ° C or higher. As a method for increasing the contact cooling sensation value Qmax on the back surface of the outer material, calendar processing on the back surface of the outer material can be mentioned. In this case, from the viewpoint of aesthetics, it is preferable to perform calendar processing only on the back surface.

本実施形態のジャケットの表地の組織については、織、編限定はないが、前記した裏地の通気抵抗と表地の通気抵抗の相対関係を満たすことが好ましく、これにより、裏地が付かないよりも、付いた方が清涼性の高いジャケットを提供することができる。 The structure of the outer material of the jacket of the present embodiment is not limited to weaving or knitting, but it is preferable to satisfy the relative relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material described above. It is possible to provide a jacket with a high degree of coolness.

以下、実施例、比較例により本発明を具体的に説明するが、本発明はこれらの実施例のみに限定されるものではない。まず、実施例で用いた測定方法及び評価方法について説明する。尚、下記測定方法における布帛、表地、裏地は、衣料から切り出したものである。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples. First, the measurement method and the evaluation method used in the examples will be described. The fabric, outer material, and lining in the following measurement method are cut out from clothing.

(1)性量(経糸密度、緯糸密度、目付、厚み)
20℃×65%RHの環境に保たれた恒温室にて布帛(表地と裏地)を一昼夜保管した後、同じく恒温室内で測定した。
経糸・緯糸密度(inchあたりの本数):デンシメーターで計測
目付(g/m):精密電子天秤
厚み:JIS L 1096規格に準拠した厚み計により測定、例えば、ピーコック 定圧厚み計 FFA10、接圧:2.4N/cm
(1) Productivity (warp density, weft density, basis weight, thickness)
The fabrics (outer material and lining) were stored in a constant temperature room kept in an environment of 20 ° C. × 65% RH for a whole day and night, and then measured in the same constant temperature room.
Warp and weft density (number per inch): Measured with a densimeter Scale (g / m 2 ): Precision electronic balance Thickness: Measured with a thickness gauge compliant with JIS L 1096 standard, for example, Peacock constant pressure thickness gauge FFA10, contact pressure : 2.4N / cm 2

(2)接触冷感値Qmax
同恒温室内で、カトーテック社製KES-F7 サーモラボIIを用い、布帛の肌に接する面(表地は裏面、裏地は表面)の最大熱移動量(Qmax値)、環境温度20℃、湿度65%RH、接触圧力98cN/cm、接触面積9cm(3cm×3cm)を測定した。断熱材として、発泡スチロールを用いた。測定回数はN=5とし、その平均値を得た。
(2) Contact cooling sensation value Qmax
In the same constant temperature room, using KES-F7 Thermolab II manufactured by Kato Tech, the maximum heat transfer amount (Qmax value) of the surface of the fabric in contact with the skin (outer material is the back surface, lining is the front surface), environmental temperature 20 ° C, humidity 65% RH, contact pressure 98 cN / cm 2 , contact area 9 cm 2 (3 cm × 3 cm) were measured. Styrofoam was used as the heat insulating material. The number of measurements was N = 5, and the average value was obtained.

(3)吸湿率M(裏地吸湿性)
80℃の送風乾燥機で1時間予備乾燥をし、次いで、20℃×65%RHの恒温室にて布帛(裏地)を一昼夜保管した後、同じく恒温室内で布帛重量を測定した。測定回数はN=5とし、その平均値を得た。
(3) Hygroscopicity M (lining hygroscopicity)
The cloth was pre-dried in a blower dryer at 80 ° C. for 1 hour, and then the cloth (lining) was stored in a constant temperature room at 20 ° C. × 65% RH for a whole day and night, and then the weight of the cloth was measured in the same constant temperature room. The number of measurements was N = 5, and the average value was obtained.

(4)通気抵抗R(裏地の通気抵抗RL、表地の通気抵抗RS)
同恒温室内で、カトーテック社製KES-F8通気抵抗測定器を用い、表地(RS)、裏地(RL)の通気抵抗を測定した。測定回数は測定箇所を変え、N=5とし、その平均値を得た。
(4) Ventilation resistance R (Ventilation resistance RL of lining, Ventilation resistance RS of outer material)
In the same constant temperature room, the ventilation resistance of the outer material (RS) and the lining (RL) was measured using a KES-F8 ventilation resistance measuring instrument manufactured by Kato Tech. The number of measurements was changed at different measurement points, N = 5, and the average value was obtained.

(5)空隙指数V
走査型電子顕微鏡(50倍~100倍が好ましい)で裏地表面写真を5箇所撮影、画像解析装置の二値化法により、繊維糸条の面積占有率(%)を求め、平均値を得、この値から空隙率(%)を算出した(空隙率=100-面積占有率)。空隙率と厚みを乗算し、空隙指数Vを算出した。
(5) Void index V
Five lining surface photographs were taken with a scanning electron microscope (preferably 50 to 100 times), and the area occupancy (%) of the fiber threads was obtained by the binarization method of the image analyzer, and the average value was obtained. The void ratio (%) was calculated from this value (void ratio = 100-area occupancy). The porosity and thickness were multiplied to calculate the porosity index V.

(6)裏地面積占有率(%)
CADを用いた画像処理により、表地の型紙と裏地の型紙の面積比から、裏地の面積占有率を算出した。なお、前記型紙は、製品を分解して生地を平面にし、デジタイザーでスキャンすることで作製することができる。
(6) Lining area occupancy rate (%)
By image processing using CAD, the area occupancy rate of the lining was calculated from the area ratio of the pattern of the outer material and the pattern of the lining. The paper pattern can be produced by disassembling the product, flattening the fabric, and scanning with a digitizer.

次に、実施例、比較例で用いたジャケットの着用試験方法について説明する。
(7)ジャケットの着用官能試験
被験者は身長170~175cm、体重60~70kgの健全な男性10名を選定した。上半身には、肌着として綿60%、キュプラ20%、ポリエステル20%のフライス(グンゼ社製YG-X)、半袖シャツとして、綿65%、ポリエステル35%の混紡糸よりなる半袖シャツを供試した。いずれの被験者にも、ノーネクタイとし、シャツの第一ボタンをはめずに着用させた。ジャケットは二つボタンの仕様とし、第一ボタンのみはめさせた。下半身は、裏地なしの綿100%のパンツの下に綿100%のブリーフ、綿、ポリエステル混の靴下を着用させた。
30℃×50%RHの環境にて、まずは裏地なしの綿100%パンツ、半袖シャツ着用の状態で15分坐位安静にさせた。続いて、試作のジャケットを1種ずつランダムに着用(乱数表使用)、以下の指定動作をさせ、1着ごと官能評価を実施した。回答は、SD法による以下の5段階評定とし、その平均値を示した。
Next, the jacket wearing test method used in Examples and Comparative Examples will be described.
(7) Jacket wearing sensory test The subjects selected 10 healthy men with a height of 170 to 175 cm and a weight of 60 to 70 kg. For the upper body, a short-sleeved shirt made of a blended yarn of 60% cotton, 20% cupra and 20% polyester (YG-X manufactured by Gunze) as underwear and 65% cotton and 35% polyester as a short-sleeved shirt was tested. .. All subjects wore no ties and did not wear the first button on the shirt. The jacket has two buttons, and only the first button is fitted. The lower half of the body was made to wear 100% cotton briefs, cotton and polyester socks under unlined 100% cotton pants.
In an environment of 30 ° C. x 50% RH, first, the patient was allowed to sit and rest for 15 minutes while wearing unlined 100% cotton pants and a short-sleeved shirt. Subsequently, the prototype jackets were randomly worn one by one (using a random number table), and the following designated actions were performed to perform sensory evaluation for each jacket. The answers were given on the following five-point scale by the SD method, and the average value was shown.

[指定動作]
袖通し-安静5分-両腕前方曲げ伸ばし繰り返し5回(初期清涼感評価)-安静5分(持続的清涼感評価)、の官能試験を実施、ジャケットを脱衣して、次のジャケットの着用試験に移行。初期清涼感評価(初期清涼性)、及び持続的な清涼感評価(持続清涼性)の評価基準を以下に示す。これら2つの観点での清涼性が共に高いことで、温熱生理学的にも官能においても清涼性の高い裏地付きジャケットとなる。
[Specified operation]
Performed a sensory test of sleeve-through-5 minutes of rest-bending and stretching forward of both arms 5 times (initial refreshing feeling evaluation) -resting 5 minutes (sustained refreshing feeling evaluation), undressing the jacket, and wearing the next jacket Moved to the exam. The evaluation criteria for the initial refreshing sensation evaluation (initial refreshing property) and the continuous refreshing sensation evaluation (sustained refreshing property) are shown below. By having high refreshing properties from these two viewpoints, the jacket is lined with high cooling properties both in terms of thermophysiology and sensuality.

[初期清涼感評価(初期清涼性)]
5:非常に清涼
4:清涼
3:どちらともいえない
2:やや暑い
1:非常に暑い
[持続的な清涼感評価(持続清涼性)]
5:非常に清涼
4:清涼
3:どちらともいえない
2:やや暑い
1:非常に暑い
[Initial refreshing feeling evaluation (initial refreshingness)]
5: Very cool 4: Cool 3: Neither 2: Slightly hot 1: Very hot [Continuous refreshing evaluation (sustained refreshing)]
5: Very cool 4: Cool 3: Neither can be said 2: Slightly hot 1: Very hot

以下、実施例、比較例で用いたパンツの着用試験方法について説明する。
(8)パンツの着用官能試験
被験者は身長170~175cm、体重60~70kgの健全な男性10名を選定した。下半身は、後述するパンツの下に綿100%のブリーフ、綿、ポリエステル混の靴下、上半身は、肌着として綿60%、キュプラ20%、ポリエステル20%のフライス(グンゼ社製YG-X)、半袖シャツとして、綿65%、ポリエステル35%の混紡糸よりなる半袖シャツを供試した。いずれの被験者にも、ノーネクタイとし、シャツ第一ボタンをはめずに着用させた。
30℃×50%RHの環境にて、まずは裏地なしの綿100%パンツ着用の状態で15分坐位安静にさせた。続いて、試作のパンツを1種ずつランダムに着用(乱数表使用)、以下の指定動作をさせ、1着ごと官能評価を実施した。回答は、SD法による以下の5段階評定とし、その平均値を示した。
[指定動作]
脚曲げ伸ばし繰り返し5回-座り、立ち繰り返し5回、パンツを脱衣して綿100%パンツを着用し5分安静後、次のパンツの着用試験へ移行
[清涼感評価(清涼性)]
5:非常に清涼
4:清涼
3:どちらともいえない
2:やや暑い
1:非常に暑い
Hereinafter, the method of wearing the pants used in Examples and Comparative Examples will be described.
(8) Pants wearing sensory test The subjects selected 10 healthy men with a height of 170 to 175 cm and a weight of 60 to 70 kg. The lower body is 100% cotton briefs, cotton and polyester mixed socks under the pants described later, and the upper body is 60% cotton, 20% cupra, 20% polyester milling (YG-X manufactured by Gunze), short sleeves as underwear. As a shirt, a short-sleeved shirt made of a blended yarn of 65% cotton and 35% polyester was tested. All subjects wore no ties and did not wear the first button on the shirt.
In an environment of 30 ° C. × 50% RH, first, the patient was allowed to sit and rest for 15 minutes while wearing 100% cotton pants without lining. Subsequently, the prototype pants were randomly worn one by one (using a random number table), and the following designated actions were performed to perform sensory evaluation for each pair of pants. The answers were given on the following five-point scale by the SD method, and the average value was shown.
[Specified operation]
Repeatedly bending and stretching legs 5 times-sitting, standing 5 times, undressing pants, wearing 100% cotton pants, resting for 5 minutes, then moving on to the next pants wearing test [coolness evaluation (coolness)]
5: Very cool 4: Cool 3: Neither can be said 2: Slightly hot 1: Very hot

(9)パンツの着用生理試験
被験者は身長170~175cm、体重60~70kgの健全な男性5名を選定した。各被験者共にサーカディアンリズムを考慮し、摂食コントロールのもとで1日1着の実験を行った。
下半身は、パンツの下に綿100%のブリーフ、綿、ポリエステル混の靴下、上半身は、肌着として綿60%、キュプラ20%、ポリエステル20%フライス(グンゼ社製YG-X)、半袖シャツとして、綿65%、ポリエステル35%混紡を供試した。いずれの被験者にも、ノーネクタイとし、シャツ第一ボタンをはめずに着用させた。
32℃×50%RHの環境にて、試作パンツを着用した状態で30分間坐位安静後、時速5kmにて10分間トレッドミル上で歩行させ、終了後10分座位安静にさせた。着用試験中は、安静開始から歩行後安静終了まで10秒ごとの平均皮膚温を得た。皮膚温は5人分のデータを時間軸に平均した後、測定開始から終了までの区間平均値を得た。平均皮膚温はラマナサンの4点法に従い、皮膚温度センサー(グラム社製LT-2N-12)を被験者の右胸、上腕、大腿、下腿に貼り付けて採取した。歩行後安静時に、各パンツの清涼性についての官能評価を実施した。回答は、SD法による以下の5段階評定とし、その平均値を示した。この歩行後清涼性が高いことで、温熱生理学的にも官能においても清涼性の高い裏地付きパンツとなる。
[清涼感評価(歩行後清涼性)]
5:非常に清涼
4:清涼
3:どちらともいえない
2:やや暑い
1:非常に暑い
(9) Pants wearing physiological test Five healthy men with a height of 170 to 175 cm and a weight of 60 to 70 kg were selected as subjects. Considering circadian rhythm, each subject conducted an experiment of wearing once a day under feeding control.
The lower body is 100% cotton briefs, cotton and polyester mixed socks under the pants, and the upper body is 60% cotton, 20% cupra, 20% polyester milling (Gunze YG-X) as underwear, as a short-sleeved shirt. A blend of 65% cotton and 35% polyester was tested. All subjects wore no ties and did not wear the first button on the shirt.
In an environment of 32 ° C. × 50% RH, the patient was allowed to sit and rest for 30 minutes while wearing the prototype pants, then walked on the treadmill at 5 km / h for 10 minutes, and then rested for 10 minutes after the completion. During the wearing test, the average skin temperature was obtained every 10 seconds from the start of rest to the end of rest after walking. For the skin temperature, after averaging the data for 5 people on the time axis, the interval average value from the start to the end of the measurement was obtained. The average skin temperature was collected by attaching a skin temperature sensor (LT-2N-12 manufactured by Gram) to the right chest, upper arm, thigh, and lower leg of the subject according to the 4-point method of Ramanasan. A sensory evaluation of the coolness of each pair of pants was performed at rest after walking. The answers were given on the following five-point scale by the SD method, and the average value was shown. Due to the high refreshing property after walking, the pants are lined with high cooling property both in terms of thermal physiology and sensuality.
[Refreshing feeling evaluation (coolness after walking)]
5: Very cool 4: Cool 3: Neither can be said 2: Slightly hot 1: Very hot

[表地の作製]
[ウール/ポリエステル混紡表地X]
経糸2/72、緯糸2/72のウールとポリエステルの混紡糸のトップ染めを経て紡績糸を得、仕上げ密度が経64本/inch、緯55本/inch、通気抵抗値が0.083kPa・s/mの平織表地Xを用意した。この表地の裏面の接触冷感値Qmaxは139W/m・℃であった。
[ウール表地Y]
経糸2/60、緯糸2/60のウール紡績糸を得、定法の染色加工の後、仕上げ密度が経62本/inch、緯48本/inch、通気抵抗が0.100kPa・s/mの平織表地Yを用意した。この表地の裏面の接触冷感値Qmaxは148W/m・℃であった。
[ウール表地Z]
経糸2/60、緯糸2/60のウール紡績糸を得、定法の染色加工の後、仕上げ密度が経62本/inch、緯48本/inchの平織表地Yを用い、仕上げ工程で裏面のみに片面カレンダー加工を行った。この表地の通気抵抗は0.110kPa・s/m、裏面の接触冷感値Qmaxは158W/m・℃であった。
[Preparation of outer material]
[Wool / polyester blended outer material X]
A spun yarn is obtained through top dyeing of wool and polyester blended yarn of warp 2/72 and warp 2/72, and the finishing density is 64 warp / inch, 55 weft / inch, and the ventilation resistance value is 0.083 kPa · s. A plain weave outer material X of / m was prepared. The contact cooling sensation value Qmax on the back surface of the outer material was 139 W / m 2 · ° C.
[Wool outer material Y]
Wool spun yarns of 2/60 warp and 2/60 warp are obtained, and after dyeing by a conventional method, a plain weave with a finishing density of 62 warps / inch, 48 wefts / inch, and a ventilation resistance of 0.100 kPa · s / m. The outer material Y was prepared. The contact cooling sensation value Qmax on the back surface of the outer material was 148 W / m 2 · ° C.
[Wool outer material Z]
Wool spun yarns of 2/60 warp and 2/60 warp are obtained, and after dyeing by a conventional method, a plain weave outer material Y with a finishing density of 62 warps / inch and 48 wefts / inch is used, and only on the back surface in the finishing process. Single-sided calendar processing was performed. The ventilation resistance of this outer material was 0.110 kPa · s / m, and the cool contact value Qmax on the back surface was 158 W / m 2 · ° C.

[裏地の作製]
[裏地1]
経糸用にキュプラアンモニウムレーヨン(旭化成社製ベンベルグ(登録商標))56dtex/45fを、S方向に撚った糸を、処理温度85℃、処理時間20分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、撚数1000回/mのS撚糸を得た。続いて、緯糸用にベンベルグ(登録商標)84dtex/45fを、S方向に撚った糸、及び、Z方向に撚った糸を、それぞれ、処理温度85℃、処理時間20分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、撚数1825回/mのS撚糸とZ撚糸を得た。経糸には前者のS撚糸を配するよう、緯糸には後者のS撚糸およびZ撚糸を交互に配するよう、エアージェットルーム織機に供給し、平織物を得た後、以下の染色加工工程1により裏地1を得た。
<染色加工工程1>
連続精練-プレセット-パッドスチーム染色・ソーピング・乾燥-柔軟樹脂加工-ホットペーパーカレンダー(温度90℃、1000N/cm)-検査
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で0.147mmから0.128mmに13%変化した。
[Preparation of lining]
[Lining 1]
Cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg (registered trademark) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) 56dtex / 45f for warp was twisted in the S direction, and the twisting set was carried out twice at a treatment temperature of 85 ° C. and a treatment time of 20 minutes. An S-twisted yarn having a twist number of 1000 times / m was obtained. Subsequently, Bemberg (registered trademark) 84dtex / 45f for weft was twisted in the S direction and in the Z direction, respectively, at a treatment temperature of 85 ° C. and a treatment time of 20 minutes twice. An anti-twist set was carried out to obtain S-twisted yarn and Z-twisted yarn having a twist number of 1825 times / m. The former S-twisted yarns are arranged in the warp yarns, and the latter S-twisted yarns and Z-twisted yarns are alternately arranged in the warp and wefts. Obtained lining 1 by.
<Dyeing process 1>
Continuous scouring-Preset-Pad steam dyeing / soaping / drying-Flexible resin processing-Hot paper calendar (temperature 90 ° C, 1000 N / cm) -Inspection The thickness of the lining changes by 13% from 0.147 mm to 0.128 mm before and after the calendar. did.

[裏地2]
経糸にキュプラアンモニウムレーヨン(旭化成社製ベンベルグ(登録商標))84dtex/45f、緯糸に同110dtex/75fを用いて、エアージェットルーム織機により、平織物を得た後、以下の染色加工工程2により裏地2を得た。
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で0.104mmから0.100mmに4%変化した。
<染色加工工程2>
連続精練-プレセット-パッドスチーム染色・ソーピング・乾燥-柔軟樹脂加工-コールドペーパーカレンダー(温度常温、1000N/cm)-検査
[Lining 2]
Using cuprammonium rayon (Bemberg (registered trademark) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) 84dtex / 45f for the warp and 110dtex / 75f for the weft, a plain woven fabric is obtained by an air jet room loom, and then the lining is performed by the following dyeing process 2. I got 2.
The thickness of the lining changed by 4% from 0.104 mm to 0.100 mm before and after the calendar.
<Dyeing process 2>
Continuous scouring-Preset-Pad steam dyeing / soaping / drying-Flexible resin processing-Cold paper calendar (temperature room temperature, 1000 N / cm) -Inspection

[裏地3]
経糸用にポリエステル56dtex/24fをS方向に撚った糸を、処理温度80℃、処理時間30分で撚り止めセットを実施し、撚数600回/mのS撚糸を得た。緯糸用にビスコースレーヨン84dtex45fを、S方向に撚った糸、及び、Z方向に撚った糸を、それぞれ、処理温度80℃、処理時間40分で撚り止めセットを実施し、撚数1825回/mのS撚糸とZ撚糸を得た。経糸には前者のS撚糸を配するよう、緯糸には後者のS撚糸とZ撚糸を交互に配するよう、エアージェットルーム織機に供給し、平織物を得た後、以下の染色加工工程3により裏地3を得た。裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で0.154mmから0.140mmに9%変化した。
<染色加工工程3>
連続精練-プレセット-液流染色・ソーピング-乾燥-パッドスチーム染色・ソーピング・乾燥-樹脂加工-コールドペーパーカレンダー(温度常温、1000N/cm)-検査
[Lining 3]
A yarn obtained by twisting polyester 56dtex / 24f for warp in the S direction was subjected to a twist-prevention set at a treatment temperature of 80 ° C. and a treatment time of 30 minutes to obtain an S-twisted yarn having a twist number of 600 times / m. Viscose rayon 84dtex45f for warp and weft was twisted in the S direction and twisted in the Z direction, respectively, at a treatment temperature of 80 ° C. and a treatment time of 40 minutes. S-twisted yarn and Z-twisted yarn at times / m were obtained. The former S-twisted yarn is arranged in the warp and the latter S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn are alternately arranged in the weft. Obtained lining 3 by. The thickness of the lining changed by 9% from 0.154 mm to 0.140 mm before and after the calendar.
<Dyeing process 3>
Continuous scouring-Preset-Liquid flow dyeing / soaping-Drying-Pad steam dyeing / soaping / drying-Resin processing-Cold paper calendar (temperature room temperature, 1000N / cm) -Inspection

[裏地4]
経糸用にキュプラアンモニウムレーヨン(旭化成社製ベンベルグ(登録商標))84dtex/45fを、S方向に撚った糸を、処理温度70℃、処理時間40分で撚り止めセットを実施し、撚数600回/mのS撚糸を得た。続いて、緯糸用にベンベルグ(登録商標)84dtex/45fを、S方向に撚った糸、及び、Z方向に撚った糸を、それぞれ、処理温度70℃、処理時間40分で撚り止めセットを実施し、撚数600回/mのS撚糸とZ撚糸を得た。経糸には前者のS撚糸を配するよう、緯糸には後者のS撚糸とZ撚糸を交互に配するよう、エアージェットルーム織機に供給して、平織物を得た後、前記した染色加工工程2により裏地4を得た。裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で0.154mmから0.140mmに9%変化した。
[Lining 4]
Cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg (registered trademark) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) 84dtex / 45f for warp is twisted in the S direction, and a twisting stop set is carried out at a treatment temperature of 70 ° C. and a treatment time of 40 minutes, and the number of twists is 600. S twisted yarn of times / m was obtained. Subsequently, a bemberg (registered trademark) 84dtex / 45f twisted yarn for wefts, twisted in the S direction and twisted in the Z direction, was set at a treatment temperature of 70 ° C. and a treatment time of 40 minutes, respectively. Was carried out to obtain S-twisted yarn and Z-twisted yarn having a twist number of 600 times / m. The former S-twisted yarn is arranged in the warp and the latter S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn are alternately arranged in the weft. 2 gave the lining 4. The thickness of the lining changed by 9% from 0.154 mm to 0.140 mm before and after the calendar.

[裏地5]
経糸、緯糸共に、キュプラアンモニウムレーヨン(旭化成社製ベンベルグ(登録商標))短繊維60/-(単糸1.4dtex、繊維長38mm、Ks=3.8)を用いて、エアージェットルーム織機により平織物を得た後、前記した染色加工工程2により裏地5を得た。
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で0.176mmから0.160mmに8%変化した。
[Lining 5]
Both warp and weft are flat with an air jet room weaving machine using cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg (registered trademark) manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation) short fiber 60 /-(single yarn 1.4 dtex, fiber length 38 mm, Ks = 3.8). After obtaining the woven fabric, the lining 5 was obtained by the dyeing processing step 2 described above.
The thickness of the lining changed by 8% from 0.176 mm to 0.160 mm before and after the calendar.

[裏地6]
経糸、緯糸共に、ポリエステルの融着延伸仮撚加工糸100dtex/36fを用いて、ウォータージェットルーム織機により平織物を得た後、以下の染色加工工程4により裏地6を得た。
<染色加工工程4>
連続精練-プレセット-液流染色・ソーピング-乾燥-仕上げ加工-検査
[Lining 6]
A plain woven fabric was obtained by a water jet room loom using 100 dtex / 36f of polyester fusion-stretched false twisted yarns for both the warp and weft, and then the lining 6 was obtained by the following dyeing process 4.
<Dyeing process 4>
Continuous scouring-Preset-Liquid dyeing / soaping-Drying-Finishing-Inspection

[裏地7]
経糸にポリエステル56dtex/36f、緯糸にポリエステル84dtex/36fを用いて、ウォータージェットルーム織機により平織物を得た後、前記した染色加工工程4により裏地7を得た。
[Lining 7]
Using polyester 56dtex / 36f for the warp and polyester 84dtex / 36f for the weft, a plain woven fabric was obtained by a water jet room loom, and then a lining 7 was obtained by the above-mentioned dyeing process 4.

こうして得た裏地1~7の糸使い、各種物性を以下の表1に示す。

Figure 0006990716000001
Table 1 below shows the thread usage of the linings 1 to 7 thus obtained and various physical properties.
Figure 0006990716000001

裏地1、裏地3、裏地4は、吸湿率Mが6.0%以上で、通気抵抗値RLが0.045kPa・s/m以下で、表地X、Yの通気抵抗値RSよりも低く、接触冷感値Qmaxが120W/m・℃以上である。
他方、裏地2は、通気抵抗値RLが0.1kPa・s/m以下でなく、かつ、通気抵抗値RLが表地X、Yの通気抵抗値RSより高いが、接触冷感値Qmaxは、185W/m・℃で最も高い。
裏地5は、通気抵抗値RLが0.1kPa・s/m以下で、表地Yの通気抵抗値RSよりも低く、接触冷感値Qmaxが120W/m・℃以上である。
裏地6と7はいずれも、接触冷感値Qmaxが120W/m・℃未満であり、かつ、吸湿率Mは6.0%未満である。
The lining 1, the lining 3, and the lining 4 have a moisture absorption rate M of 6.0% or more, a ventilation resistance value RL of 0.045 kPa · s / m or less, and are lower than the ventilation resistance values RS of the outer materials X and Y, and are in contact with each other. The cooling sensation value Qmax is 120 W / m 2 · ° C. or higher.
On the other hand, in the lining 2, the ventilation resistance value RL is not 0.1 kPa · s / m or less, and the ventilation resistance value RL is higher than the ventilation resistance values RS of the outer materials X and Y, but the contact cooling sensation value Qmax is 185 W. Highest at / m 2 ° C.
The lining 5 has a ventilation resistance value RL of 0.1 kPa · s / m or less, is lower than the ventilation resistance value RS of the outer material Y, and has a contact cooling sensation value Qmax of 120 W / m 2 · ° C. or higher.
In each of the linings 6 and 7, the contact cooling sensation value Qmax is less than 120 W / m 2 · ° C., and the hygroscopicity M is less than 6.0%.

[裏地付きジャケットの試作]
表地Xと表地Y、裏地1~7を用い、ジャケットをJIS標準サイズA6にて縫製した。裏地の縫製時には、織機上の経糸方向が胴体経方向になるように縫製した。
実施例13では表地Yを用い、それ以外の実施例1~12、14~26、比較例1~10では表地Xを用いた。脇身頃と前身頃については、総裏仕様では、表地面積の95%、背抜き仕様では、表地面積の40%、そして半裏仕様では、表地面積の30%、となるように、実施例26を除いて、背裏と同じ裏地を配した。ここで、脇身頃、前身頃における表地面積とは、図1における2と3で記した領域の面積である。背裏が無い場合は、脇身頃と前身頃も裏地無とした。また、比較例7として、裏地を全く付けないジャケットも用意した。尚、縫製時の表地と裏地の縫製状態は以下の評価基準で判定した。
[縫製状態評価]
◎:大変良好
○:良好
△:どちらともいえない
×:やや悪い
[Prototype lined jacket]
The jacket was sewn with JIS standard size A6 using the outer material X, the outer material Y, and the linings 1 to 7. When sewing the lining, the lining was sewn so that the warp direction on the loom was the body warp direction.
In Example 13, the outer material Y was used, and in the other Examples 1 to 12, 14 to 26, and in Comparative Examples 1 to 10, the outer material X was used. For the side body and the front body, the total back specification is 95% of the outer material area, the backless specification is 40% of the outer material area, and the half back specification is 30% of the outer material area. Except for the same lining as the back. Here, the outer material area of the side body and the front body is the area of the area described by 2 and 3 in FIG. If there is no back, the armpits and front are also unlined. In addition, as Comparative Example 7, a jacket without any lining was also prepared. The sewing state of the outer material and the lining at the time of sewing was judged by the following evaluation criteria.
[Evaluation of sewing condition]
◎: Very good ○: Good △: Neither can be said ×: Slightly bad

[実施例1]
胴部には図1に示す総裏仕様で裏地1を、袖部に図5に示す全袖仕様で裏地1を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。
[Example 1]
A jacket was manufactured by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 for the body portion with the full lining specification shown in FIG. 1 and the lining 1 for the sleeve portion with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG.

[実施例2]
胴部には図2-1に示す背抜き仕様で裏地1を、袖部に図5に示す全袖仕様で裏地1を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。
[Example 2]
A jacket was manufactured by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 for the body portion with the unlined specification shown in FIG. 2-1 and the lining 1 for the sleeve portion with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG.

[実施例3]
胴部には、裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図5に示す全袖仕様で裏地1を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。
[Example 3]
The body was not lined (no back), and the sleeves were made by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 with the full sleeve specifications shown in FIG.

[実施例4]
胴部には裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図6に示す上腕に裏地1を、前腕に裏地2を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘下部で切り替えとし、上腕の面積比=60%、前腕の面積比=35%とした。
[Example 4]
A jacket was produced by the method A sewing method using no lining on the body (no back), lining 1 on the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 on the sleeve, and lining 2 on the forearm. The upper arm and forearm were switched at the lower elbow for both the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 60% and the area ratio of the forearm was 35%.

[実施例5]
胴部には図1に示す総裏仕様で裏地1を、袖部に図6に示す上腕に裏地1を、前腕に裏地2を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘上部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=30%、前腕の面積比=65%とした。
[Example 5]
A jacket was produced by the method A sewing method using a lining 1 for the body portion having the full lining specifications shown in FIG. 1, a lining 1 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 6 for the sleeve portion, and a lining 2 for the forearm portion. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the upper elbow, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 30% and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.

[実施例6]
胴部には図3に示す半裏仕様で裏地1を、袖部に図6に示す上腕に裏地1を、前腕に裏地2を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘上部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=30%、前腕の面積比=65%とした。
[Example 6]
A jacket was manufactured by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 for the body part with the semi-lining specifications shown in FIG. 3, the lining 1 for the upper arm shown for the sleeve part, and the lining 2 for the forearm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the upper elbow, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 30% and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.

[実施例7]
胴部には裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図5に示す内腕に裏地1を、外腕に裏地2を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。内腕の面積比=40%、外腕の面積比=55%とした。
[Example 7]
A jacket was produced by the method A sewing method using no lining on the body (no back), lining 1 on the inner arm shown in FIG. 5 on the sleeve, and lining 2 on the outer arm. The area ratio of the inner arm was 40%, and the area ratio of the outer arm was 55%.

[実施例8]
胴部に裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図6に示す上腕に裏地1を、前腕に裏地2を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘上部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=30%、前腕の面積比=65%とした。
[Example 8]
A jacket was produced by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 for the upper arm and the lining 2 for the forearm shown in FIG. 6 on the sleeve without lining the body (no back). The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the upper elbow, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 30% and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.

[実施例9]
胴部に図2-2に示す背抜き仕様で裏地4を、袖部に図5に示す全袖仕様で裏地2を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。
[Example 9]
A jacket was manufactured by the method A sewing method using the lining 4 on the body with the unlined specifications shown in FIG. 2-2 and the lining 2 on the sleeves with the full sleeve specifications shown in FIG.

[実施例10]
胴部に図2-1に示す背抜き仕様で裏地1を、袖部に図5に示す全袖仕様で裏地2を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。
[Example 10]
A jacket was manufactured by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 on the body with the unlined specifications shown in FIG. 2-1 and the lining 2 on the sleeves with the full sleeve specifications shown in FIG.

[実施例11]
胴部に図2-1に示す背抜き仕様で裏地3を、袖部に図5に示す全袖仕様で裏地1を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。
[Example 11]
A jacket was manufactured by the method A sewing method using the lining 3 on the body with the unlined specifications shown in FIG. 2-1 and the lining 1 on the sleeves with the full sleeve specifications shown in FIG.

[実施例12]
胴部に図2-1に示す背抜き仕様で裏地4を、袖部に図5に示す全袖仕様で裏地3を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。
[Example 12]
A jacket was manufactured by the method A sewing method using the lining 4 on the body with the unlined specifications shown in FIG. 2-1 and the lining 3 on the sleeves with the full sleeve specifications shown in FIG.

[実施例13]
胴部に図1に示す総裏仕様で裏地5を、袖部に図5に示す全袖仕様で裏地5を使用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。前記したように、実施例13では、表地Yを用いてジャケットを作製した。
[Example 13]
A jacket was manufactured by the A method sewing method using the lining 5 for the body part with the full lining specification shown in FIG. 1 and the lining 5 for the sleeve part with the full sleeve specification shown in FIG. As described above, in Example 13, a jacket was produced using the outer material Y.

[実施例14]
胴部に裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図7に示す前腕に裏地1を、上腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘上部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=35%、前腕の面積比=60%とした。
[Example 14]
A jacket was produced by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 for the forearm and the lining 6 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 7 on the sleeve without lining the body (no back). The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the upper elbow, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 35% and the area ratio of the forearm was 60%.

[実施例15]
胴部に図1に示す総裏仕様で裏地1を、袖部に図7に示す前腕に裏地1を、上腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘下部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=65%、前腕の面積比=30%とした。
[Example 15]
A jacket was produced by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 on the body with the full lining specifications shown in FIG. 1, the lining 1 on the forearm shown on FIG. 7 on the sleeves, and the lining 6 on the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the lower elbow, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 65% and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.

[実施例16]
胴部には図3に示す半裏仕様で裏地1を、袖部に図7に示す前腕に裏地1を、上腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘下部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=65%、前腕の面積比=30%とした。
[Example 16]
A jacket was manufactured by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 for the body part with the semi-lining specification shown in FIG. 3, the lining 1 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 for the sleeve part, and the lining 6 for the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the lower elbow, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 65% and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.

[実施例17]
背部に裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図5に示す内腕に裏地1を、外腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。内腕の面積比=40%、外腕の面積比=55%とした。
[Example 17]
A jacket was produced by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 for the inner arm and the lining 6 for the outer arm shown in FIG. 5 on the sleeve without lining on the back (no back). The area ratio of the inner arm was 40%, and the area ratio of the outer arm was 55%.

[実施例18]
胴部に裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図7に示す前腕に裏地1を、上腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘下部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=65%、前腕の面積比=30%とした。
[Example 18]
A jacket was produced by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 for the forearm and the lining 6 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 7 on the sleeve without lining the body (no back). The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the lower elbow, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 65% and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.

[実施例19]
胴部に図1に示す総裏仕様で裏地1を、袖部に図7に示す前腕に裏地2を、上腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘下部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=65%、前腕の面積比=30%とした。
[Example 19]
A jacket was produced by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 on the body with the full lining specifications shown in FIG. 1, the lining 2 on the forearm shown on FIG. 7 on the sleeves, and the lining 6 on the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the lower elbow, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 65% and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.

[実施例20]
胴部には図3に示す半裏仕様で裏地1を、袖部に図7に示す前腕に裏地2を、上腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘下部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=65%、前腕の面積比=30%とした。
[Example 20]
A jacket was manufactured by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 for the body part with the semi-lining specification shown in FIG. 3, the lining 2 for the forearm shown in FIG. 7 for the sleeve part, and the lining 6 for the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the lower elbow, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 65% and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.

[実施例21]
胴部に裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図5に示す内腕に裏地2を、外腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。内腕の面積比=40%、外腕の面積比=55%とした。
[Example 21]
A jacket was produced by the method A sewing method using the lining 2 for the inner arm and the lining 6 for the outer arm shown in FIG. 5 on the sleeve without lining the body (no back). The area ratio of the inner arm was 40%, and the area ratio of the outer arm was 55%.

[実施例22]
胴部に裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図6に示す上腕に裏地1を、前腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘下部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=70%、前腕の面積比=25%とした。
[Example 22]
A jacket was produced by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 for the upper arm and the lining 6 for the forearm shown in FIG. 6 on the sleeve without lining the body (no back). The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the lower elbow, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 70% and the area ratio of the forearm was 25%.

[実施例23]
胴部に裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図5に示す外腕に裏地1を、内腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。内腕の面積比=35%、外腕の面積比=60%とした。
[Example 23]
A jacket was produced by the method A sewing method using the lining 1 for the outer arm and the lining 6 for the inner arm shown in FIG. 5 on the sleeve without lining on the body (no back). The area ratio of the inner arm was 35%, and the area ratio of the outer arm was 60%.

[実施例24]
胴部に裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図7に示す前腕に裏地2を、上腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘下部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=65%、前腕の面積比=30%とした。
[Example 24]
A jacket was produced by the method A sewing method using the lining 2 for the forearm and the lining 6 for the upper arm shown in FIG. 7 on the sleeve without lining the body (no back). The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the lower elbow, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 65% and the area ratio of the forearm was 30%.

[実施例25]
胴部に裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図5に示す内腕に裏地2を、外腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットをA法の縫製方法で作製した。内腕の面積比=35%、外腕の面積比=60%とした。
[Example 25]
A jacket was produced by the method A sewing method using the lining 2 for the inner arm and the lining 6 for the outer arm shown in FIG. 5 on the sleeve without lining the body (no back). The area ratio of the inner arm was 35%, and the area ratio of the outer arm was 60%.

[実施例26]
脇部(脇身頃)、前部(前身見頃)に裏地6を配する以外は実施例1(裏地1)と同様にしてジャケットを作製した。
[Example 26]
A jacket was produced in the same manner as in Example 1 (lining 1) except that the lining 6 was arranged on the armpit (armpit) and the front (front body).

[比較例1]
胴部に図1に示す総裏仕様で裏地6を、袖部に図5に示す全袖仕様で裏地6を用いてジャケットを6針/1cmのピッチで縫製し、作製した。
[Comparative Example 1]
A jacket was sewn on the body using the lining 6 with the full lining specifications shown in FIG. 1 and the lining 6 on the sleeves with the full sleeve specifications shown in FIG. 5 at a pitch of 6 stitches / 1 cm.

[比較例2]
胴部に図2-1に示す背抜き仕様で裏地7を、袖部に図5に示す全袖仕様で裏地7を用いてジャケットを6針/1cmのピッチで縫製し、作製した。
[Comparative Example 2]
A jacket was sewn on the body using the lining 7 with the unlined specifications shown in FIG. 2-1 and on the sleeves with the lining 7 with the full sleeve specifications shown in FIG. 5 at a pitch of 6 stitches / 1 cm.

[比較例3]
胴部に裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図5に示す全袖仕様で裏地6を用いてジャケットを6針/1cmのピッチで縫製し、作製した。
[Comparative Example 3]
A jacket was sewn at a pitch of 6 stitches / 1 cm using the lining 6 with the full sleeve specifications shown in FIG. 5 on the sleeves without lining on the body (no back).

[比較例4]
胴部に裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図6に示す上腕に裏地7を、前腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットを3針/1cmのピッチで縫製し、作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘下部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=60%、前腕の面積比=35%とした。
[Comparative Example 4]
A jacket was sewn at a pitch of 3 stitches / 1 cm using a lining 7 on the upper arm and a lining 6 on the forearm shown in FIG. 6 on the sleeve without lining on the body (no back). The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the lower elbow, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 60% and the area ratio of the forearm was 35%.

[比較例5]
胴部に図1に示す総裏仕様で裏地7を、袖部に図6に示す上腕に裏地7を、前腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットを3針/1cmのピッチで縫製し、作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘上部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=30%、前腕の面積比=65%とした。
[Comparative Example 5]
A jacket was sewn at a pitch of 3 stitches / 1 cm using the lining 7 on the body with the full lining specifications shown in FIG. 1, the lining 7 on the upper arm shown on FIG. 6 on the sleeve, and the lining 6 on the forearm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the upper elbow, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 30% and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.

[比較例6]
胴部に図3に示す半裏仕様で裏地7を、袖部に図6に示す上腕に裏地7を、前腕に裏地6を用いてジャケットを3針/1cmのピッチで縫製し、作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘上部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=30%、前腕の面積比=65%とした。
[Comparative Example 6]
A jacket was sewn at a pitch of 3 stitches / 1 cm using the lining 7 on the body with the semi-lining specifications shown in FIG. 3, the lining 7 on the upper arm shown on FIG. 6 on the sleeve, and the lining 6 on the forearm. The upper arm and forearm were switched between the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve at the upper elbow, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 30% and the area ratio of the forearm was 65%.

[比較例7]
裏地を全く付けないジャケットを作製した。
[Comparative Example 7]
I made a jacket without any lining.

[比較例8]
胴部に図3に示す半裏仕様で裏地2を、袖部に図7に示す前腕に裏地1を、上腕に裏地7を用いてジャケットを3針/1cmのピッチで縫製し、作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘下部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=75%、前腕の面積比=20%とした。
[Comparative Example 8]
A jacket was sewn at a pitch of 3 stitches / 1 cm using the lining 2 on the body with the semi-lining specifications shown in FIG. 3, the lining 1 on the forearm shown on FIG. 7 on the sleeves, and the lining 7 on the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched at the lower elbow for both the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 75% and the area ratio of the forearm was 20%.

[比較例9]
胴部に図3に示す半裏仕様で裏地2を、袖部に図7に示す前腕に裏地2を、上腕に裏地7を用いてジャケットを3針/1cmのピッチで縫製し、作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘下部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=75%、前腕の面積比=20%とした。
[Comparative Example 9]
A jacket was sewn at a pitch of 3 stitches / 1 cm using the lining 2 on the body with the semi-lining specification shown in FIG. 3, the lining 2 on the forearm shown on FIG. 7 on the sleeve, and the lining 7 on the upper arm. The upper arm and forearm were switched at the lower elbow for both the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 75% and the area ratio of the forearm was 20%.

[比較例10]
胴部に裏地を付けず(背無)、袖部に図7に示す前腕に裏地2を、上腕に裏地7を用いてジャケットを3針/1cmのピッチで縫製し、作製した。上腕と前腕は内袖、外袖共に肘下部で切り替えし、上腕の面積比=75%、前腕の面積比=20%とした。
[Comparative Example 10]
A jacket was sewn at a pitch of 3 stitches / 1 cm using the lining 2 on the forearm and the lining 7 on the upper arm shown in FIG. 7 on the sleeve without lining on the body (no back). The upper arm and forearm were switched at the lower elbow for both the inner sleeve and the outer sleeve, and the area ratio of the upper arm was 75% and the area ratio of the forearm was 20%.

背部、袖部の裏地の配置方法、表地に対する裏地の面積比、縫製の仕上がり、着用試験の結果を以下の表2に示す。 Table 2 below shows the arrangement method of the lining of the back and sleeves, the area ratio of the lining to the outer material, the finish of sewing, and the results of the wearing test.

Figure 0006990716000002
Figure 0006990716000002

[裏地付きパンツの試作]
表地Xと表地Yと表地Zと、各種裏地を用いたパンツを、JIS標準サイズA6にて縫製した。裏地の縫製時には、織機上の経糸方向が胴体経方向になるように縫製した。
[Prototype of lined pants]
Pants using outer material X, outer material Y, outer material Z, and various linings were sewn with JIS standard size A6. When sewing the lining, the lining was sewn so that the warp direction on the loom was the body warp direction.

[実施例27、31、32]
裏地1を、実施例27、については、前当て仕様、KL(ニーライン)よりも20cm下(前当て通常長さ)としてパンツをA法及びB法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比42%、表地前身対比84%で、パンツの仕立て映えは良好あった。実施例31については、総裏仕様としてパンツを縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比90%で、パンツの仕立てには、欠点はなかった。実施例32については、前当て仕様、KLよりも15cm下(前当て短め)としてパンツをA法及びB法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比36%、表地前身対比72%、パンツの仕立て映えは良好であった。
[Examples 27, 31, 32]
For Example 27, the lining 1 was sewn by the A method and the B method with the front pad specification, 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor, and the tailoring of the pants was good. For Example 31, pants were sewn as a total back specification. The lining area was 90% of the outer material area, and there were no drawbacks in the tailoring of the pants. For Example 32, the pants were sewn by the A method and the B method with the front pad specification, 15 cm below the KL (shorter front pad). The lining area was 36% of the outer material area and 72% of the outer material predecessor, and the tailoring of the pants was good.

[実施例28]
裏地3を、前当て仕様、KL(ニーライン)よりも20cm下(前当て通常長さ)としてパンツをA法及びB法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比42%、表地前身対比84%で、パンツの仕立て映えは良好であった。
[Example 28]
The lining 3 was set to be 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad), and the pants were sewn by the A method and the B method. The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor, and the tailoring of the pants was good.

[実施例29]
経糸用にキュプラアンモニウムレーヨン(旭化成(製)ベンベルグ)56dtex/45fを、S方向に撚った糸を、処理温度70℃、処理時間20分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、撚数1000回/mのS撚糸を得た。続いて、緯糸用にベンベルグ84dtex/45fを、S方向に撚った糸、および、Z方向に撚った糸を、それぞれ処理温度70℃、処理時間20分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、撚数1825回/mのS撚糸およびZ撚糸を得た。経糸には前者のS撚糸を配するよう、緯糸には後者のS撚糸およびZ撚糸を交互に配するよう、エアージェットルーム織機に供給して、平織物を得た後、前記した染色加工工程1により裏地8を得た。
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で0.146mmから0.133に10%変化した。
裏地8は、吸湿率Mが6.0%以上で、通気抵抗値RLが0.1kPa・s/m以下で、表地X、Yの通気抵抗値RSよりも低く、接触冷感値Qmaxが120W/m・℃以上であるが、空隙指数Vが3.0を超えていた。
この裏地8を、前当て仕様、KL(ニーライン)よりも20cm下(前当て通常長さ)としてパンツをA法及びB法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比42%、表地前身対比84%で、パンツの仕立て映えは良好であった。
[Example 29]
Cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg, Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 56dtex / 45f for warp is twisted in the S direction, and the twisting set is carried out twice at a processing temperature of 70 ° C. and a processing time of 20 minutes, and the number of twists is 1000. S twisted yarn of times / m was obtained. Subsequently, the bemberg 84dtex / 45f for the warp and weft was twisted twice in the treatment temperature of 70 ° C. and the treatment time of 20 minutes for the yarn twisted in the S direction and the yarn twisted in the Z direction. Then, S-twisted yarn and Z-twisted yarn having a twist number of 1825 times / m were obtained. The former S-twisted yarn is arranged in the warp and the latter S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn are alternately arranged in the weft. 1 gave the lining 8.
The thickness of the lining changed by 10% from 0.146 mm to 0.133 before and after the calendar.
The lining 8 has a moisture absorption rate M of 6.0% or more, a ventilation resistance value RL of 0.1 kPa · s / m or less, is lower than the ventilation resistance values RS of the outer materials X and Y, and has a contact cooling sensation value Qmax of 120 W. Although it was / m 2 · ° C. or higher, the void index V exceeded 3.0.
The lining 8 was set to 20 cm below the KL (knee line) of the front pad specification (normal length of the front pad), and the pants were sewn by the A method and the B method. The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor, and the tailoring of the pants was good.

[実施例30]
裏地4を、前当て仕様、KL(ニーライン)よりも20cm下(前当て通常長さ)としてパンツをA法及びB法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比42%、表地前身対比84%で、パンツの仕立て映えは良好であった。
[Example 30]
The lining 4 was set to 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad), and the pants were sewn by the A method and the B method. The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor, and the tailoring of the pants was good.

[実施例33]
経糸用にキュプラアンモニウムレーヨン(旭化成(製)ベンベルグ)56dtex/45fを、S方向に撚った糸を、処理温度85℃、処理時間20分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、撚数1000回/mのS撚糸を得た。続いて、緯糸用にベンベルグ84dtex/45fを、S方向に撚った糸、および、Z方向に撚った糸を、それぞれ処理温度85℃、処理時間20分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、撚数1825回/mのS撚糸およびZ撚糸を得た。経糸には前者のS撚糸を配するよう、緯糸には後者のS撚糸およびZ撚糸を交互に配するよう、エアージェットルーム織機に供給して、平織物を得た後、前記した染色加工工程3により裏地9を得た。
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で0.147mmから0.135mmに8%変化した。
裏地9は、吸湿率Mが6.0%以上で、通気抵抗値RLが0.1kPa・s/m以下で、表地X、Yの通気抵抗値RSよりも低く、接触冷感値Qmaxが120W/m・℃以上であり、空隙指数Vが2.97であった。
この裏地9を、前当て仕様、KL(ニーライン)よりも20cm下(前当て通常長さ)としてパンツをA法及びB法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比42%、表地前身対比84%で、パンツの仕立て映えは良好であった。
[Example 33]
Cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg, Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 56dtex / 45f for warp is twisted in the S direction, and the twisting set is carried out twice at a processing temperature of 85 ° C. and a processing time of 20 minutes, and the number of twists is 1000. S twisted yarn of times / m was obtained. Subsequently, the bemberg 84dtex / 45f for the warp and weft was twisted twice in the treatment temperature of 85 ° C. and the treatment time of 20 minutes for the yarn twisted in the S direction and the yarn twisted in the Z direction. Then, S-twisted yarn and Z-twisted yarn having a twist number of 1825 times / m were obtained. The former S-twisted yarn is arranged in the warp and the latter S-twisted yarn and the Z-twisted yarn are alternately arranged in the weft. 3 gave the lining 9.
The thickness of the lining changed by 8% from 0.147 mm to 0.135 mm before and after the calendar.
The lining 9 has a moisture absorption rate M of 6.0% or more, a ventilation resistance value RL of 0.1 kPa · s / m or less, is lower than the ventilation resistance values RS of the outer materials X and Y, and has a contact cooling sensation value Qmax of 120 W. It was / m 2. ° C. or higher, and the void index V was 2.97.
The lining 9 was set to 20 cm below the front pad specification, KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad), and the pants were sewn by the A method and the B method. The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor, and the tailoring of the pants was good.

[実施例34]
経糸用にキュプラアンモニウムレーヨン(旭化成(製)ベンベルグ)56dtex/45fを、S方向に撚った糸を、処理温度70℃、処理時間20分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、撚数1000回/mのS撚糸を得た。続いて、緯糸用にベンベルグ84dtex/45fを、S方向に撚った糸、および、Z方向に撚った糸を、それぞれ処理温度70℃、処理時間20分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、撚数1825回/mのS撚糸およびZ撚糸を得た。経糸には前者のS撚糸を配するよう、緯糸には後者のS撚糸およびZ撚糸を交互に配するよう、エアージェットルーム織機に供給して、平織物を得た後、染色加工工程3により裏地10を得た。
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で0.147mmから0.137mmに7%変化した。
裏地10は、吸湿率Mが6.0%以上で、通気抵抗値RLが0.1kPa・s/m以下で、表地X、Yの通気抵抗値RSよりも低く、接触冷感値Qmaxが120W/m・℃以上であったが、空隙指数Vが3.0を超えていた。
この裏地10を、前当て仕様、KL(ニーライン)よりも20cm下(前当て通常長さ)としてパンツをA法及びB法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比42%、表地前身対比84%で、パンツの仕立て映えは良好であった。
[Example 34]
Cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg, Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 56dtex / 45f for warp is twisted in the S direction, and the twisting set is carried out twice at a processing temperature of 70 ° C. and a processing time of 20 minutes, and the number of twists is 1000. S twisted yarn of times / m was obtained. Subsequently, the bemberg 84dtex / 45f for the warp and weft was twisted twice in the treatment temperature of 70 ° C. and the treatment time of 20 minutes for the yarn twisted in the S direction and the yarn twisted in the Z direction. Then, S-twisted yarn and Z-twisted yarn having a twist number of 1825 times / m were obtained. The former S-twisted yarns are arranged in the warp yarns, and the latter S-twisted yarns and Z-twisted yarns are alternately arranged in the warp and wefts. Obtained lining 10.
The thickness of the lining changed by 7% from 0.147 mm to 0.137 mm before and after the calendar.
The lining 10 has a moisture absorption rate M of 6.0% or more, a ventilation resistance value RL of 0.1 kPa · s / m or less, is lower than the ventilation resistance values RS of the outer materials X and Y, and has a contact cooling sensation value Qmax of 120 W. Although it was / m 2 ° C or higher, the void index V exceeded 3.0.
The lining 10 was set to 20 cm below the KL (knee line) of the front pad specification (normal length of the front pad), and the pants were sewn by the A method and the B method. The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor, and the tailoring of the pants was good.

[実施例35]
表地Yを用い、裏地5を、前当て仕様、KL(ニーライン)よりも20cm下(前当て通常長さ)としてパンツをA法及びB法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比42%、表地前身対比84%で、パンツの仕立て映えは良好であった。
[Example 35]
Using the outer material Y, the lining 5 was sewn by the A method and the B method with the lining 5 being 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front contact). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor, and the tailoring of the pants was good.

[実施例36]
表地Zを用い、裏地5を、前当て仕様、KL(ニーライン)よりも20cm下(前当て通常長さ)としてパンツをA法及びB法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比42%、表地前身対比84%で、パンツの仕立て映えは良好であった。
[Example 36]
Using the outer material Z, the lining 5 was sewn by the A method and the B method with the lining 5 being 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front material). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor, and the tailoring of the pants was good.

[比較例12、16]
比較例12については、裏地6を用いて、総裏仕様としてパンツを縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比90%であった。
比較例16については、同じく裏地6を用いて、前当て仕様として、KL(ニーライン)よりも20cm下(前当て通常長さ)としてパンツをA法及び定法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比42%、表地前身対比84%で、パンツの仕立てには、欠点はなかった。
[Comparative Examples 12, 16]
For Comparative Example 12, the lining 6 was used and the pants were sewn as a total lining specification. The lining area was 90% of the outer material area.
For Comparative Example 16, the lining 6 was also used, and the pants were sewn by the A method and the conventional method with the lining 6 as the front pad specification, 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor, and there were no drawbacks in the tailoring of the pants.

[比較例13]
裏地7を用いて、前当て仕様として、KL(ニーライン)よりも20cm下(前当て通常長さ)としてパンツをA法及び定法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比42%、表地前身対比84%で、パンツの仕立てとして、パッカリングの欠点があった。
[Comparative Example 13]
Using the lining 7, the pants were sewn by the A method and the standard method with the front pad specification 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor, and there was a drawback of puckering as a tailoring of pants.

[比較例14]
裏地5を用いて、前当て仕様として、KL(ニーライン)よりも20cm下(前当て通常長さ)としてパンツをA法及び定法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比42%、表地前身対比84%で、パンツの仕立て映えとして、パッカリングの欠点があった。
[Comparative Example 14]
Using the lining 5, the pants were sewn by the A method and the standard method with the front pad specification 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor, and there was a drawback of puckering as the tailoring of the pants.

[比較例15]
表地Xを用いて、裏地無しのパンツを縫製した。
[Comparative Example 15]
Unlined pants were sewn using the outer material X.

[比較例17]
経緯糸に、キュプラアンモニウムレーヨン(旭化成(製)ベンベルグ)短繊維60/-(単糸1.4dtex、繊維長38mm、Ks=3.3)を用いて、エアージェットルーム織機により平織物を得た後、前記した染色加工工程3により裏地11を得た。
裏地の厚みは0.172mmから0.165mmに4%変化した。
裏地11は、吸湿率Mが6.0%以上で、通気抵抗値RLが0.1kPa・s/mを超え、表地X、Yの通気抵抗値RSよりも高く、また、接触冷感値Qmaxが120W/m・℃以上であったが、空隙指数Vが3.0を超えていた。
この裏地11を用いて、前当て仕様として、KL(ニーライン)よりも20cm下(前当て通常長さ)としてパンツをA法及び定法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比42%、表地前身対比84%で、パンツの仕立て映えとして、パッカリングの欠点があった。
[Comparative Example 17]
A plain woven fabric was obtained by an air jet room weaving machine using cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg, Asahi Kasei Corporation) short fiber 60 /-(single yarn 1.4 dtex, fiber length 38 mm, Ks = 3.3) as the warp and weft. Later, the lining 11 was obtained by the dyeing process 3 described above.
The thickness of the lining changed by 4% from 0.172 mm to 0.165 mm.
The lining 11 has a moisture absorption rate M of 6.0% or more, a ventilation resistance value RL exceeding 0.1 kPa · s / m, higher than the ventilation resistance values RS of the outer materials X and Y, and a cool contact value Qmax. Was 120 W / m 2 ° C or higher, but the void index V exceeded 3.0.
Using this lining 11, the pants were sewn by the A method and the standard method with the front pad specification 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor, and there was a drawback of puckering as the tailoring of the pants.

こうして得たパンツの裏地の構成、物性、配置場所、面積占有率及び着用試験結果を、以下の表3-1、3-2に示す。 The composition, physical properties, placement location, area occupancy rate, and wearing test results of the lining of the pants thus obtained are shown in Tables 3-1 and 3-2 below.

Figure 0006990716000003
Figure 0006990716000003

Figure 0006990716000004
Figure 0006990716000004

本発明の裏地付き衣料は、裏地素材や物性だけではなく、裏地の配置方法を適切にすることにより、裏地がつかないよりも、温熱生理学的にも官能的にも清涼性を高めることができる。 The lined garment of the present invention can enhance the coolness in terms of thermophysiology and sensuality as compared with the case where the lining is not attached, by appropriately arranging the lining as well as the lining material and physical properties. ..

1 後身頃(背部)
2 脇身頃(脇部)
3 前身頃(前部)
4 胴部
11 裏地が配された背部
12 裏地が配された脇部
13 裏地が配された前部
21 裏地が配されていない背部
22 裏地が配されていない脇部
23 裏地が配されていない前部
1 Back body (back)
2 Armpit (armpit)
3 Front body (front)
4 Body 11 Back with lining 12 Side with lining 13 Front with lining 21 Back without lining 22 Side without lining 23 No lining front

Claims (14)

少なくとも内腕かつ上腕の部分、前腕部分、又は、脚の両鼠蹊部から膝までの部分に相当する位置に、接触冷感値Qmaxが120W/m・℃以上であり、かつ、吸湿率Mが6.0%以上である織物である裏地が表地に固定されており、かつ、該表地の裏面の接触冷感値Qmaxが150W/m ・℃以上である、裏地付き衣料。 The cool contact value Qmax is 120 W / m 2 ° C or higher, and the moisture absorption rate is M, at least at the positions corresponding to the inner arm and upper arm, forearm, or the part from both inguines to the knee of the leg. A lining that is a woven fabric having a value of 6.0% or more is fixed to the outer material , and the cool contact value Qmax on the back surface of the outer material is 150 W / m 2 ° C. or more . 前記裏地の目付が62g/m以上である、請求項1に記載の裏地付き衣料。 The lined garment according to claim 1, wherein the lining has a basis weight of 62 g / m 2 or more. 前記衣料がジャケットであり、前記表地の袖部の面積の30%以上に前記裏地が固定されている、請求項1又は2に記載の裏地付き衣料。 The lined garment according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the garment is a jacket and the lining is fixed to 30% or more of the area of the sleeve portion of the outer material. 前記表地の後身頃の面積の30%以上に前記裏地が固定されている、請求項に記載の裏地付き衣料。 The lined garment according to claim 3 , wherein the lining is fixed to 30% or more of the area of the back body of the outer material. 前記裏地の通気抵抗値RLが0.1kPa・s/m以下であり、かつ、前記表地の通気抵抗RSが前記裏地の通気抵抗値RLよりも高い、請求項又はに記載の裏地付き衣料。 The lined garment according to claim 3 or 4 , wherein the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining is 0.1 kPa · s / m or less, and the ventilation resistance RS of the outer material is higher than the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining. .. 前記裏地の空隙指数Vが1.0以上3.0以下である、請求項のいずれか1項に記載の裏地付き衣料。 The lined garment according to any one of claims 3 to 5 , wherein the void index V of the lining is 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less. 前記裏地の経糸と緯糸がいずれも、撚り係数Kfが4000~20000T/mである長繊維撚糸糸条である、請求項のいずれか1項に記載の裏地付き衣料。 The lined garment according to any one of claims 3 to 6 , wherein both the warp and weft of the lining are long fiber plyed yarns having a twisting coefficient Kf of 4000 to 20000 T / m. 前記裏地が再生セルロース長繊維を含む、請求項のいずれか1項に記載の裏地付き衣料。 The lined garment according to any one of claims 3 to 7 , wherein the lining contains regenerated cellulose filaments. 前記衣料がパンツであり、前記表地の面積の30%以上に前記裏地が固定されている、請求項1又は2に記載の裏地付き衣料。 The lined garment according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the garment is pants and the lining is fixed to 30% or more of the area of the outer material. 前記表地の前身頃の面積の50%以上に裏地が固定されている、請求項に記載の裏地付き衣料。 The lined garment according to claim 9 , wherein the lining is fixed to 50% or more of the area of the front body of the outer material. 前記裏地の通気抵抗値RLが0.1kPa・s/m以下であり、かつ、前記表地の通気抵抗RSが前記裏地の通気抵抗値RLよりも高い、請求項又は10に記載の裏地付き衣料。 The lined garment according to claim 9 or 10 , wherein the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining is 0.1 kPa · s / m or less, and the ventilation resistance RS of the outer material is higher than the ventilation resistance value RL of the lining. .. 前記裏地の空隙指数Vが、1.0以上3.0以下である、請求項11のいずれか1項に記載の裏地付き衣料。 The lined garment according to any one of claims 9 to 11 , wherein the void index V of the lining is 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less. 前記裏地が再生セルロース長繊維を含む、請求項12のいずれか1項に記載の裏地付き衣料。 The lined garment according to any one of claims 9 to 12 , wherein the lining contains regenerated cellulose filaments. 前記裏地が前当て又は後ろ当てであり、前記表地と前記裏地の縫い代端が該裏地で覆われている、請求項13のいずれか1項に記載の裏地付き衣料。 The lined garment according to any one of claims 9 to 13 , wherein the lining is a front pad or a back pad, and the outer material and the seam allowance end of the lining are covered with the lining.
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