JP6902856B2 - How to make lined trousers - Google Patents
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- JP6902856B2 JP6902856B2 JP2016226746A JP2016226746A JP6902856B2 JP 6902856 B2 JP6902856 B2 JP 6902856B2 JP 2016226746 A JP2016226746 A JP 2016226746A JP 2016226746 A JP2016226746 A JP 2016226746A JP 6902856 B2 JP6902856 B2 JP 6902856B2
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Description
本発明は、清涼機能、汗処理機能に優れ、着心地を高めた裏地付きズボンの製造方法に関する。 The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing lined trousers which are excellent in cooling function and sweat treatment function and have improved comfort.
春夏用男性用ズボン、女性用ズボンは、暑いと感じた時も都度脱ぐことができないため、清涼機能が重要である。そこで、できるだけ表地を薄くしたり、裏地をメッシュ調にしたり、裏地を付けない仕様にするなど、清涼性を高めようと工夫がされている。しかし、表地が薄すぎて透けてしまう、破れてしまうなどの問題点や、裏地をメッシュにすることで、むしろ含気量が増え、断熱効果となる、裏地が付かないことによって、接触熱伝導性、及び吸湿・吸水といった汗処理性（以下、併せて熱水分移動特性ともいう。）が劣り、結果として温熱生理学的に清涼性が低下する、という問題がある。 Men's trousers and women's trousers for spring and summer cannot be taken off each time they feel hot, so a refreshing function is important. Therefore, we have devised ways to improve the coolness, such as making the outer material as thin as possible, making the lining mesh-like, and making the specifications without lining. However, there are problems such as the outer material being too thin to be transparent or torn, and by using a mesh lining, the air content is rather increased, which provides a heat insulating effect. There is a problem that the properties and sweat treatment properties such as moisture absorption and water absorption (hereinafter, also referred to as thermal moisture transfer characteristics) are inferior, and as a result, the cooling property is deteriorated thermophysiologically.
以下の特許文献１には、経糸及び緯糸の一方にポリエステル系繊維からなる仮撚未解撚糸を、他方にポリエルテル系繊維からなる沸水処理後の捲縮率４０％以上のサイドバイサイド型の捲縮糸を用いた織物が開示されている。しかしながら、該織物では、しゃり感による清涼感と滑り性を付与することで肌へのベタツキが改善されているものの、ポリエステル繊維で構成されていることから、裏地の熱水分移動特性、含気量に考慮が無く、清涼性に問題がある。 In the following Patent Document 1, one of the warp and the weft is a false-twisted untwisted yarn made of polyester fiber, and the other is a side-by-side type crimped yarn made of polyertel fiber and having a crimping rate of 40% or more after boiling water treatment. The woven fabric using the above is disclosed. However, in the woven fabric, although the stickiness to the skin is improved by imparting a refreshing feeling and slipperiness due to a crunchy feeling, since it is composed of polyester fibers, it contains the heat and moisture transfer characteristics of the lining. There is no consideration of the air volume, and there is a problem with coolness.
また、以下の特許文献２には、経糸にセルロース系長繊維、緯糸にポリエステル系長繊維の仮撚糸を用いた裏地用織物が、また、以下の特許文献３には、夏用のズボンの前身にメッシュ又はネット調のひざ裏生地を配置して収納部を作り、折畳み収納に際しては折畳んだままで収納部に収納し、持ち運びに際して型崩れがないズボンが開示されているが、いずれも裏地通気抵抗、表地通気抵抗との関係、裏地の熱水分移動特性に考慮が無く、清涼性が充分発現できていない。
Further, in the following
以下の特許文献４には、夏用スーツ上下の裏地として、メッシュ裏地が開示されており、ズボンにおいては、該メッシュ裏地と織物裏地を縫合し、膝の滑り感を損なわない膝裏としての縫製方法が開示されているものの、いずれの裏地も、裏地の通気抵抗と表地の通気抵抗との関係、裏地の熱水分移動特性に考慮が無く、ズボンとしての清涼性が充分発現できていない。 The following Patent Document 4 discloses a mesh lining as the upper and lower linings of a summer suit, and in trousers, the mesh lining and the woven lining are sewn together and sewn as a knee lining that does not impair the slippery feeling of the knee. Although the method is disclosed, in any of the linings, the relationship between the ventilation resistance of the lining and the ventilation resistance of the outer material and the heat-moisture transfer characteristics of the lining are not taken into consideration, and the coolness of the trousers cannot be sufficiently expressed.
本発明は、夏用ズボンの裏地の通気抵抗、表地の通気抵抗とこれらの相対関係、裏地の熱水分移動特性や含気量を最適値とすることで、温熱生理学的にも官能においても、清涼性を高めることができる、裏地付きズボンを提供することである。 The present invention optimizes the ventilation resistance of the lining of summer trousers, the ventilation resistance of the outer material and their relative relationships, the heat-moisture transfer characteristics and the air content of the lining, in terms of both thermophysiology and sensuality. It is to provide lined trousers that can enhance the coolness.
発明者は、鋭意検討し実験を重ねた結果、以下の要件を満たすことで、温熱生理学的にも、官能的にも、清涼性を高めた裏地付きズボンを提供することができることを見出した。本発明者は、裏地の通気抵抗を小さくし、且つ、裏地の通気抵抗を表地の通気抵抗よりも低く（小さく）することで、皮膚から裏地へ、裏地から表地へ、更に表地から外環境へ、と水分移行性を高めることができること、また、最内層の裏地素材に熱伝導性や吸湿性が高いものを選択することが重要であること、同時に断熱に寄与する含気量を増やさないために、裏地の空隙率と厚みから算出される空隙指数を適正範囲にし、皮膚と裏地間の熱水分をより効果的に移行させることが必要であること、更には、ヒトの温熱生理メカニズムに着目し、裏地の配置部位として、ズボンの前身部分、特に、鼠蹊部や大腿前上部は熱放散効果が優れており、最適であることを見出した。本発明者は、かかる知見に基づき本発明を完成するに至ったものである。 As a result of diligent studies and experiments, the inventor has found that it is possible to provide lined trousers with improved coolness, both thermophysiologically and sensually, by satisfying the following requirements. The present inventor reduces the ventilation resistance of the lining and lowers (smaller) the ventilation resistance of the lining than the ventilation resistance of the outer material, thereby from the skin to the lining, from the lining to the outer material, and further from the outer material to the outside environment. It is important to select a lining material with high thermal conductivity and moisture absorption as the lining material of the innermost layer, and at the same time, it does not increase the air content that contributes to heat insulation. In addition, it is necessary to set the void index calculated from the void ratio and thickness of the lining to an appropriate range, and to transfer the heat and moisture between the skin and the lining more effectively. Focusing on it, we found that the front part of the trousers, especially the inguinal part and the upper part of the anterior part of the thigh, have an excellent heat-dissipating effect and are optimal as the lining placement part. The present inventor has completed the present invention based on such findings.
すなわち、本発明は、下記の通りのものである。
［１］ 通気抵抗値ＲＳの表地の少なくとも一部に、接触冷感値Ｑｍａｘ（Ｗ／ｍ２・℃）が１２０以上であり、吸湿率Ｍ（％）が６．０以上であり、通気抵抗値ＲＬ（ｋＰａ・s／ｍ）がＲＳ未満、かつ、０．１以下であり、そして空隙指数Ｖが、１．０以上３．０以下である裏地を固定する工程を含む、裏地付きズボンの製造方法。
［２］前記裏地が、前記表地の面積の３０％以上を占める、前記［１］に記載の方法。
［３］前記裏地が、ズボンの前身面積の５０％以上を占める、前記［２］に記載の方法。
［４］前記裏地が、脚の両鼠蹊部から膝までの部分に配置されている、前記［１］〜［３］のいずれかに記載の方法。
［５］前記裏地が、再生セルロース長繊維を含む、前記［１］〜［４］のいずれかに記載の方法。
［６］通気抵抗値ＲＳの表地の少なくとも一部に、接触冷感値Ｑｍａｘ（Ｗ／ｍ ２ ・℃）が１２０以上、吸湿率Ｍ（％）が６．０以上、通気抵抗値ＲＬ（ｋＰａ・s／ｍ）がＲＳ未満、かつ、０．１以下である裏地を、前当て又は後ろ当て仕様で、固定する工程を含み、該工程において、表地を中表にして、両脇を縫い、裏地を外表にし、表地を中表にして縫製した縫い代に、表地の縫い目よりも外側に重ねるように縫い、最終的には裏地を一番上に三枚重ねてひっくり返しにする方法で、裏地の表側を最内層としたズボンに縫い仕上げる、裏地付きズボンの製造方法。
That is, the present invention is as follows.
[1] At least a part of the outer material of the ventilation resistance value RS has a cool contact value Qmax (W / m 2 · ° C.) of 120 or more , a moisture absorption rate M (%) of 6.0 or more , and ventilation resistance. the value RL (kPa · s / m) is less than RS, and 0.1 Ri der less and void index V comprises the step of fixing the Ru der 1.0 to 3.0 lining, lined How to make trousers.
[ 2 ] The method according to the above [1] , wherein the lining occupies 30% or more of the area of the outer material.
[ 3 ] The method according to [2 ] above, wherein the lining occupies 50% or more of the frontal area of the trousers.
[ 4 ] The method according to any one of [1] to [3 ] above, wherein the lining is arranged in a portion from both inguinal regions of the leg to the knee.
[ 5 ] The method according to any one of [1] to [4 ] above, wherein the lining contains regenerated cellulose filaments.
[6] On at least a part of the outer material of the ventilation resistance value RS, the contact cold feeling value Qmax (W / m 2 · ° C.) is 120 or more, the moisture absorption rate M (%) is 6.0 or more, and the ventilation resistance value RL (kPa).・ Including the step of fixing the lining whose s / m) is less than RS and 0.1 or less with the front pad or back pad specification, in this step, the outer material is turned to the inside and both sides are sewn. The lining is sewn with the lining on the outside and the outer material on the inside, and the seam allowance is sewn so that it overlaps the seams of the outer material. A method of manufacturing lined trousers, in which the front side of the trousers is sewn to the innermost layer.
本発明に係る裏地付きズボンは、裏地素材や物性だけではなく、裏地と表地の関係、裏地の配置方法を適切にすることにより、温熱生理学的にも官能的にも清涼性が高められたものである。具体的には、空隙を与えつつ、含気量は可能な限り抑制し、接触による熱伝導とズボン内の熱水分移行性を高めることから、下肢、特に、大腿前上部の皮膚温上昇、発汗量上昇を抑え、結果としてズボン内温湿度上昇を抑制することができる。温熱生理学的にも、特に、下肢は熱放散効率が高い部位であることから、この衣服内環境を適切にすることで、全身の皮膚温上昇、発汗量上昇を抑制することができ、結果的に官能においても清涼性を実感することができる。 The lined trousers according to the present invention have improved thermophysiological and sensual coolness by appropriately adjusting not only the lining material and physical properties but also the relationship between the lining and the outer material and the arrangement method of the lining. Is. Specifically, while providing voids, the air content is suppressed as much as possible, and heat conduction by contact and heat-moisture transfer in the trousers are enhanced. It is possible to suppress an increase in the amount of sweating, and as a result, an increase in the temperature and humidity inside the trousers. In terms of thermophysiology, in particular, the lower limbs are areas with high heat dissipation efficiency, so by adjusting the environment inside the clothes, it is possible to suppress the rise in skin temperature and sweating of the whole body, resulting in this. You can also feel the coolness in terms of sensuality.
以下、本発明の実施形態の概要を説明する。
本実施形態のズボンは、使用する裏地の物性、表地との関係、さらには、配置方法に特徴がある。裏地素材や物性については、ズボン着用時、大腿と接触する都度、熱伝導により人体産熱を有効に移行させる機能が重要で、熱移動特性が高い素材を選定するとよい。具体的には、裏地の接触冷感値Ｑｍａｘ値は、１２０Ｗ／ｍ２・℃以上、好ましくは１４０以上、更に好ましくは１６０以上である。同時に、皮膚からの不感蒸泄を吸収し、蒸れ感を抑制するために吸湿性の高い素材を選定し、この吸湿率Ｍ値は、６％以上である。また、長時間着用における衣服内の湿度上昇も抑制するために、水蒸気移行性を考慮し、ズボンの最内層である裏地の通気抵抗ＲＬ値が０．１ｋＰａ・ｓ／ｍ以下、且つ裏地の通気抵抗ＲＬを表地の通気抵抗ＲＳよりも低く（小さく）する、すなわちＲＬ＜ＲＳとなるよう表地裏地を選定する。
The outline of the embodiment of the present invention will be described below.
The trousers of the present embodiment are characterized by the physical characteristics of the lining used, the relationship with the outer material, and the arrangement method. Regarding the lining material and physical characteristics, it is important to select a material with high heat transfer characteristics because it is important to have a function to effectively transfer heat generated by the human body by heat conduction each time it comes into contact with the thigh when wearing trousers. Specifically, the cool contact value Qmax value of the lining is 120 W / m 2 · ° C. or higher, preferably 140 or higher, and more preferably 160 or higher. At the same time, a material having high hygroscopicity is selected in order to absorb insensitive evaporation from the skin and suppress the feeling of stuffiness, and the hygroscopicity M value is 6% or more. In addition, in order to suppress the rise in humidity inside the clothes when worn for a long time, the ventilation resistance RL value of the lining, which is the innermost layer of the trousers, is 0.1 kPa · s / m or less, and the ventilation of the lining is taken into consideration. The outer lining is selected so that the resistance RL is lower (smaller) than the ventilation resistance RS of the outer material, that is, RL <RS.
前記熱水分移動特性を達成するために、裏地の含気量を考慮した空隙指数Ｖが目安となり、二次元的な空隙率から算出した空隙面積と厚みの乗算値からとらえられる。この空隙指数Ｖは１．０以上３．０以下であることが好ましい。また、本実施形態のズボンの裏地は、表地の面積の３０％以上を占め、表地の前身面積の５０％以上を占め、配置部位として、熱放散特性が高い下肢、特に、大腿前上部の鼠蹊部から膝までの部分に配置されることが好ましい。 In order to achieve the heat-moisture transfer characteristic, the void index V in consideration of the air content of the lining serves as a guide, and can be grasped from the multiplication value of the void area and the thickness calculated from the two-dimensional porosity. The void index V is preferably 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less. Further, the lining of the trousers of the present embodiment occupies 30% or more of the area of the outer material, occupies 50% or more of the predecessor area of the outer material, and as a placement site, the lower limbs having high heat dissipation characteristics, particularly the inguinal region of the upper anterior thigh. It is preferably arranged in the portion from the portion to the knee.
以下、本実施形態の裏地付きズボンに用いる裏地について説明する。
裏地のＱｍａｘ値を１２０以上にするために、毛羽を有する短繊維よりも毛羽の少ない短繊維、更には毛羽のない長繊維が好ましい。毛羽が多いと熱移動の妨げとなる。従って、短繊維を用いる場合、単糸繊度が２ｄｔｅｘ以下、繊維長が２５ｍｍ以上、より好ましくは３８ｍｍ以上である、比較的繊維長が長い短繊維を選定するとよい。短繊維の太さは４０番手から６０番手（綿番手）、より好ましくは５０番手から６０番手である。撚数は糸の硬さ、風合いの面から２０／ｉｎｃｈ〜３０／ｉｎｃｈが好ましい。以下の式：
撚り係数Ｋｓ（ｓは短繊維を示す）＝撚数（Ｔ／ｉｎｃｈ）／綿番手＾０．５
で計算される撚り係数Ｋｓは３〜４であることが好ましい。
Hereinafter, the lining used for the lined trousers of the present embodiment will be described.
In order to make the Qmax value of the lining 120 or more, short fibers having less fluff than short fibers having fluff, and even long fibers without fluff are preferable. If there is a lot of fluff, it will hinder heat transfer. Therefore, when short fibers are used, it is preferable to select short fibers having a single yarn fineness of 2 dtex or less, a fiber length of 25 mm or more, more preferably 38 mm or more, and a relatively long fiber length. The thickness of the short fibers is 40 to 60 (cotton), more preferably 50 to 60. The number of twists is preferably 20 / inch to 30 / inch in terms of yarn hardness and texture. The following formula:
Twist coefficient Ks (s indicates short fiber) = number of twists (T / inch) / cotton count ^ 0.5
The twist coefficient Ks calculated in is preferably 3 to 4.
長繊維を用いる場合、ヤーンの繊度が３０ｄｔｅｘ以上１３０ｄｔｅｘ以下の繊維を選定することが好ましい。３０ｄｔｅｘ以上１３０ｔｅｘ以下にすることで、耐摩擦、引裂き等の強度物性と、柔らかさ等の風合い特性とのバランスを保つことができる。３０ｄｔｅｘ未満では摩擦や引き裂き強度に劣り、他方、１３０ｄｔｅｘを超えると、風合いが硬くなる。単繊維の断面形状については、皮膚とアウターとの摩擦を低減する観点から、三角や十字等の角のある形状よりも、丸や楕円等が好ましい。単糸繊度は、細いほど生地が柔らかくなることから、４ｄｔｅｘ以下であることが好ましい。構成糸条の形態は、単一素材でも二種以上素材を予め複合しても、機上で複合してもよいが、表面の平滑性が低い仮撚加工糸、エア交絡糸よりは、平滑性が高く充填度の高い原糸、撚糸が好ましい。また、繊維内水分率が高い素材は熱伝導性が高いため好適である。素材としては、例えば、セルロース系繊維では、天然繊維の綿、麻、再生セルロース繊維のビスコースレーヨン、銅アンモニウムレーヨン、精製セルロース、半合成繊維のアセテート、合成繊維のナイロン、ポリエステル等が挙げられる。中でも繊維内水分率が高いことから熱伝導性が高い、再生セルロース繊維が最も好ましい。ポリマー中に熱伝導性が高い金属酸化物等を練り込むと、熱伝導性をより高めることができる。 When long fibers are used, it is preferable to select fibers having a yarn fineness of 30 dtex or more and 130 dtex or less. By setting the content to 30 dtex or more and 130 tex or less, it is possible to maintain a balance between strength physical properties such as abrasion resistance and tearing and texture characteristics such as softness. If it is less than 30 dtex, the friction and tear strength are inferior, while if it exceeds 130 dtex, the texture becomes hard. Regarding the cross-sectional shape of the single fiber, from the viewpoint of reducing the friction between the skin and the outer, a round or elliptical shape is preferable to a shape having a corner such as a triangle or a cross. The fineness of the single yarn is preferably 4 dtex or less because the finer the fabric, the softer the fabric. The form of the constituent yarns may be a single material, two or more kinds of materials may be combined in advance, or may be combined on the machine, but it is smoother than the false twisted yarn and the air entangled yarn having low surface smoothness. Raw yarns and twisted yarns having high properties and a high degree of filling are preferable. Further, a material having a high water content in the fiber is suitable because it has high thermal conductivity. Examples of the material include cotton and linen of natural fibers, bisco rayon of recycled cellulose fibers, copper ammonium rayon, purified cellulose, acetate of semi-synthetic fibers, nylon of synthetic fibers, polyester and the like as cellulose-based fibers. Of these, regenerated cellulose fibers, which have high thermal conductivity because of their high water content in the fibers, are most preferable. By kneading a metal oxide or the like having high thermal conductivity into the polymer, the thermal conductivity can be further enhanced.
裏地の吸湿性を達成するためにも、前述のセルロース系繊維を含むことが好ましい。ポリマー中の疎水基を、吸湿性を示す親水基で改質するのもよい。
中でも繊維内水分率が高い再生セルロース繊維が最も好ましい。セルロース系繊維の混率は、裏地重量の３０％以上であることが好ましく、４０％以上、更には５０％以上であると吸湿性が高まり好ましい。セルロース系繊維が３０％未満になると、吸湿性が不足し、蒸れを感じやすくなる。
In order to achieve hygroscopicity of the lining, it is preferable to contain the above-mentioned cellulosic fibers. Hydrophobic groups in the polymer may be modified with hydrophilic groups exhibiting hygroscopicity.
Of these, regenerated cellulose fibers having a high water content in the fibers are most preferable. The mixing ratio of the cellulosic fibers is preferably 30% or more, more preferably 40% or more, and more preferably 50% or more of the weight of the lining, because the hygroscopicity is increased. If the cellulosic fiber content is less than 30%, the hygroscopicity is insufficient and the stuffiness is easily felt.
裏地の通気抵抗ＲＬについては、０．１を超えると水蒸気移行性が乏しく、素材の吸湿性のみでは蒸れ感を抑制できない。また、裏地の通気抵抗ＲＬが表地の通気抵抗ＲＳよりも高いと、最内層の水蒸気が効果的に排出されず、水蒸気が留まりやすくなる。従って、ＲＬが０．１以下、且つ、ＲＬ＜ＲＳを満たすことが好ましい。裏地の通気抵抗を下げる定法法としては、構成糸条の密度を下げる他に、長繊維の場合、構成糸条を収束させ、糸に撚り又は捲縮を加える、短繊維の場合、撚り係数を高めに設定する等がある。 When the ventilation resistance RL of the lining exceeds 0.1, the water vapor transferability is poor, and the stuffiness cannot be suppressed only by the hygroscopicity of the material. Further, when the ventilation resistance RL of the lining is higher than the ventilation resistance RS of the outer material, the water vapor in the innermost layer is not effectively discharged, and the water vapor tends to stay. Therefore, it is preferable that the RL is 0.1 or less and RL <RS is satisfied. In addition to reducing the density of the constituent yarns, the standard method for reducing the ventilation resistance of the lining is to converge the constituent yarns and twist or crimp the yarns in the case of long fibers, and to increase the twist coefficient in the case of short fibers. There are things like setting it higher.
他方、空隙を過剰に与えると、通気抵抗は大きく下がるものの、含気量が多く断熱効果が高まり、接触による熱移動が作用しにくくなる。従って、熱伝導性と水蒸気移行性を両立するためには、空隙指数をコントロールすることが重要である。
布帛の空隙率は、一般的にカバーファクター（繊維占有率）から算出する等、二次元でとらえるのが定法であったが、本発明者は含気量を考慮した空隙指数Ｖが重要であり、三次元、つまり二次元的な空隙率から算出される空隙面積と厚みの乗算値でとらえられることを明らかにした。この空隙指数Ｖは前述の通り、熱伝導性と水蒸気移行性の両立のため１．０以上３．０以下であることが好ましい。３．０を超えると、水蒸気移行性は達成しても、含気量が多く断熱効果が高まる。他方、１．０を下回ると、含気量が少ないため断熱効果は低減できるが、水蒸気移行性が達成できない。
On the other hand, if the voids are excessively provided, the ventilation resistance is greatly reduced, but the air content is large and the heat insulating effect is enhanced, and heat transfer due to contact is less likely to act. Therefore, it is important to control the void index in order to achieve both thermal conductivity and water vapor transferability.
Generally, the porosity of fabric is calculated from the cover factor (fiber occupancy), and it is a standard method to grasp it in two dimensions, but the present inventor considers the porosity V in consideration of the air content. , It was clarified that it can be grasped by the multiplication value of the void area and the thickness calculated from the three-dimensional, that is, the two-dimensional porosity. As described above, the void index V is preferably 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less in order to achieve both thermal conductivity and water vapor transferability. If it exceeds 3.0, the water vapor transferability is achieved, but the air content is large and the heat insulating effect is enhanced. On the other hand, if it is less than 1.0, the heat insulating effect can be reduced because the air content is small, but the water vapor transferability cannot be achieved.
通気抵抗を０．１以下、且つ、空隙指数Ｖを１．０以上３．０以下にコントロールするためには、構成糸条の密度と形態、（空隙率につながる）に加えて、厚み（空隙率に乗算し、空隙指数となる単位を記載する）を考慮する必要がある。通気抵抗を下げるため、単に糸条を収束させると、糸条収束による厚み増は空隙量も増大させることから、厚み増は必要最小限に留める必要がある。同時に、構成糸条自体の含気量も低減することが望ましい。 In order to control the ventilation resistance to 0.1 or less and the void index V to 1.0 or more and 3.0 or less, in addition to the density and morphology of the constituent yarns (leading to porosity), the thickness (void). It is necessary to consider (multiply the rate and describe the unit that becomes the void index). In order to reduce the ventilation resistance, if the threads are simply converged, the increase in thickness due to the convergence of the threads also increases the amount of voids, so it is necessary to keep the increase in thickness to the minimum necessary. At the same time, it is desirable to reduce the air content of the constituent yarns themselves.
したがって、構成糸として短繊維を用いる場合、繊維毛羽が可能な限り少なく、比較的繊維長が長い繊維糸条を選定するとよい。中でも、単糸繊度が２ｄｔｅｘ以下、繊維長が２５ｍｍ以上、より好ましくは３８ｍｍ以上の短繊維で、太さは５０番手から６０番手、撚係数Ｋｓを３〜４に設定することが好ましい。撚係数Ｋｓが３〜４であれば、より収束しやすく、含気量を抑制することができる。 Therefore, when short fibers are used as the constituent yarns, it is preferable to select fiber yarns having as few fiber fluffs as possible and a relatively long fiber length. Among them, it is preferable to set the single yarn fineness to 2 dtex or less, the fiber length to 25 mm or more, more preferably 38 mm or more, the thickness from 50 to 60, and the twist coefficient Ks to 3 to 4. When the twist coefficient Ks is 3 to 4, it is easier to converge and the air content can be suppressed.
構成糸として長繊維を用いると、短繊維よりも相対的に糸条内の含気量が少ないのでより好ましい。合成繊維の仮撚加工糸を用いることもできるが、この場合、糸条のトータル繊度を１３０ｄｔｅｘ以下、より好ましくは８４ｄｔｅｘ以下、さらに好ましくは５６ｄｔｅｘ以下とし、且つ、嵩高にならないよう、仮撚数、ヒーター温度、糸速等を調整し、捲縮伸長率（ＪＩＳ−Ｌ−１０９０合成繊維嵩高加工糸試験方法、５．７伸縮法Ｂ法に基づく）を２０％以下とした低捲縮糸を選定するのがよい。捲縮伸長率は５％〜１０％が最も好ましい。二種以上の糸条を予めエア交絡した後、追撚する方法を用いると、より一層含気量を抑制できるため、なおよい。 It is more preferable to use long fibers as the constituent yarns because the air content in the yarns is relatively smaller than that of the short fibers. It is also possible to use false twisted yarn of synthetic fiber, but in this case, the total fineness of the yarn is 130 dtex or less, more preferably 84 dtex or less, further preferably 56 dtex or less, and the number of false twists so as not to be bulky. Select a low crimp yarn with a crimp elongation rate (JIS-L-1090 synthetic fiber bulky processed yarn test method, 5.7 expansion and contraction method B method) of 20% or less by adjusting the heater temperature, yarn speed, etc. It is better to do it. The crimp extension rate is most preferably 5% to 10%. It is even more preferable to use a method in which two or more kinds of yarns are air-entangled in advance and then twisted, because the air content can be further suppressed.
撚糸は含気量抑制において好ましく、単一素材による撚糸、二種以上の糸条を合撚して得た合撚糸でもよいが、以下の式：
撚り係数Ｋｆ（ｆは長繊維を示す）＝撚数（Ｔ／ｍ）×繊度＾０．５
で計算される撚り係数Ｋｆを４５００〜２００００、より好ましくは５０００〜１８０００に設定すると、より収束しやすく、含気量を抑制できる。
撚糸作製時は、撚り止めセット条件温度を高く、時間を長めに設定するとよい。好ましい条件は、セット温度７０℃〜９０℃、セット時間は一回なら４０〜６０分、二回なら２０分〜３０分、セルロース系繊維は、セット温度は８０℃〜９０℃と高めに設定することが好ましい。セット時間は二回実施することが好ましい。機上で原糸と撚糸、原糸と仮撚加工糸と、仮撚加工糸と撚糸を併用することも可能であるが、糸条内の含気量が少ない、撚糸と撚糸の組み合わせが最もよい。仮撚加工糸よりも仮撚追撚、撚糸、更には強撚の方が、糸条内の含気量が低減できるため好ましい。
The twisted yarn is preferable in terms of suppressing the air content, and may be a twisted yarn made of a single material or a twisted yarn obtained by twisting two or more kinds of yarns.
Twist coefficient Kf (f indicates long fiber) = number of twists (T / m ) x fineness ^ 0.5
When the twist coefficient Kf calculated in 1 is set to 4500 to 20000, more preferably 5000 to 18000, it is easier to converge and the air content can be suppressed.
When producing the twisted yarn, it is advisable to set the anti-twist set condition temperature high and the time longer. Preferred conditions are a set temperature of 70 ° C. to 90 ° C., a set time of 40 to 60 minutes once, a set time of 20 minutes to 30 minutes twice, and a set temperature of 80 ° C. to 90 ° C. for cellulosic fibers. Is preferable. The set time is preferably carried out twice. It is possible to use both raw yarn and twisted yarn, raw yarn and false twisted yarn, and false twisted yarn and twisted yarn together on the machine, but the combination of twisted yarn and twisted yarn, which has a low air content in the yarn, is the best. Good. False twist additional twist, twisted yarn, and even strong twist are preferable to false twisted yarn because the air content in the yarn can be reduced.
空隙指数Ｖを減ずるために、裏地の厚みを小さくすることが好ましく、そのためには前述の糸条製造技術の他に、裏地の最終仕上げ工程にてコールドカレンダーやホットカレンダー等を併用し、厚みを５％〜２０％程度、更に好ましくは１０％〜１５％低減するとなおよい。空隙量を減じる効果だけではなく、平滑にすることで、接触冷感性、熱伝導性を高めることができる。 In order to reduce the void index V, it is preferable to reduce the thickness of the lining. For that purpose, in addition to the above-mentioned thread manufacturing technique, a cold calendar, a hot calendar, etc. are used together in the final finishing process of the lining to increase the thickness. It is even more preferable to reduce the amount by about 5% to 20%, more preferably 10% to 15%. Not only the effect of reducing the amount of voids, but also smoothing can enhance the cool contact sensitivities and thermal conductivity.
裏地を構成する素材例として、セルロース系繊維では、天然繊維の綿、麻、再生セルロース繊維のビスコースレーヨン、銅アンモニウムレーヨン、精製セルロース、半合成繊維のアセテート、合成繊維のナイロン、ポリエステル等が挙げられる。構成糸条は、単一素材でも二種以上素材でもよく、糸条で複合しても、機上で複合しても、一本交互等の複合使用でもよい。中でもセルロース系繊維は、繊維内水分率が高いことから熱伝導性が高く、更にはカレンダー工程後にテカリやギラツキ、熱融着が生じにくいため合成繊維よりも好ましく、中でも、再生セルロース繊維を３０重量％以上、より好ましくは４０重量％以上含むとよい。再生セルロース繊維が、長繊維糸条であれば糸条内の含気量も抑制できるため、なおよい。 Examples of materials constituting the lining include natural fibers such as cotton and linen, recycled cellulose fibers such as biscous rayon, copper ammonium rayon, purified cellulose, semi-synthetic fiber acetate, synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester. Be done. The constituent threads may be a single material or two or more kinds of materials, and may be combined with threads, combined on a machine, or used in combination such as alternating one thread. Among them, cellulosic fibers have high thermal conductivity due to their high water content in the fibers, and are more preferable than synthetic fibers because they are less likely to cause shine, glare, and heat fusion after the calendar process. % Or more, more preferably 40% by weight or more. If the regenerated cellulose fiber is a long fiber yarn, the air content in the yarn can be suppressed, which is even better.
本実施形態のズボンに用いる裏地の配置については、総裏仕様、前当て使用、後ろ当て仕様でもよいが、総裏仕様は表地のチクチク感や表地縫代の摩擦を防ぐことができるうえ、下肢全体の不感蒸泄を処理することができるためより好ましい。前当てか後ろ当て、いずれかの部分仕様とする場合は、ズボンの前身部分に裏地を配置する前当て仕様に縫製することが好ましい。その理由は、歩くたびに皮膚と接触し、熱交換効率が高くなるためである。ヒトにおいて熱放散特性が高いと知られる下肢のうち、特に大腿前上部の鼠蹊部から膝までの部分が、その効率は高い。したがって、下肢の動脈に近い鼠蹊部を中心に鼠蹊部から膝までの間に裏地を配置することが好ましい。裏地の丈については、膝動作性向上の観点から、膝下までの長さがあることが好ましい。膝下まであれば、歩行や座位等の動作時においても、効果的に大腿部と接触することができる。裏地の面積が、表地の面積の２０％以上、より好ましくは３０％以上を占め、且つ表地の前身面積の４０％以上、より好ましくは５０％以上を占めることが好ましい。裏地は表地の少なくとも一部に固定されていればよく、裏地の隅全てが表地と固定されていてもよい。 Regarding the arrangement of the lining used for the trousers of the present embodiment, the full lining specification, the front pad use, and the back pad specification may be used, but the total lining specification can prevent the tingling sensation of the outer material and the friction of the outer seam allowance, and the lower limbs. It is more preferable because it can treat the entire insensitive evaporation. When either the front pad or the back pad is used, it is preferable to sew to the front pad specification in which the lining is arranged on the front part of the trousers. The reason is that each time you walk, it comes into contact with the skin and the heat exchange efficiency increases. Among the lower limbs known to have high heat dissipation characteristics in humans, the efficiency is particularly high in the part from the inguinal region to the knee in the upper anterior thigh. Therefore, it is preferable to arrange the lining from the inguinal region to the knee centering on the inguinal region near the artery of the lower limb. The length of the lining is preferably a length below the knee from the viewpoint of improving knee operability. As long as it is below the knee, it is possible to effectively contact the thigh even during movements such as walking and sitting. It is preferable that the area of the lining occupies 20% or more, more preferably 30% or more of the area of the outer material, and 40% or more, more preferably 50% or more of the predecessor area of the outer material. The lining may be fixed to at least a part of the outer material, and all corners of the lining may be fixed to the outer material.
表地への裏地の固定方法は、縫製に限定されるものではないが、縫製であることができる。裏地の縫製方法については、縫製部位強度保持の面から、４針ないしは５針／１ｃｍのピッチで、本縫いにて縫うことが好ましい。前当てか後ろ当て、いずれかの部分使用とする場合、表地の縫い代ができるだけ皮膚に当たらないようにするためには、表地を中表にして、両脇を縫い、裏地を外表にし、表地を中表にして縫製した縫い代に、表地の縫い目よりも外側に重ねるように縫い、最終的には裏地を一番上に三枚重ねてひっくり返しにする方法（この縫製方法をＡ法とする）で、裏地の表側を最内層としたズボンに縫い仕上げることができる。この方法で縫うと、ズボン脇部のパッカリングを防ぐことができ、縫い目が美しいズボンとなる。何故なら、表地と裏地を縫い込む通常の縫い方（定法）では、縫製コストは削減できるが、厚みや伸度の違う表地と裏地を縫い合わせると、厚みや伸度差によりパッカリングが、更には伸度差により動作時の伸び不足感が、伴うことがあり、着用感を悪化させる場合がある。 The method of fixing the lining to the outer material is not limited to sewing, but can be sewing. Regarding the sewing method of the lining, it is preferable to sew by lock stitching at a pitch of 4 stitches or 5 stitches / 1 cm from the viewpoint of maintaining the strength of the sewn part. When using either the front pad or the back pad, in order to prevent the seam allowance of the outer material from hitting the skin as much as possible, the outer material should be on the inside, both sides should be sewn, the lining should be on the outside, and the outer material should be. A method in which the seam allowance sewn on the inside and outside is sewn so that it overlaps the seam on the outer material, and finally three linings are layered on top and turned upside down (this sewing method is referred to as method A). Then, it is possible to sew the trousers with the front side of the lining as the innermost layer. When sewn in this way, puckering on the sides of the trousers can be prevented, resulting in trousers with beautiful seams. The reason is that the normal sewing method (standard method) in which the outer material and the lining are sewn can reduce the sewing cost, but when the outer material and the lining with different thickness and elongation are sewn together, puckering due to the difference in thickness and elongation can be achieved. Due to the difference in elongation, a feeling of insufficient elongation during operation may accompany, which may worsen the wearing feeling.
本実施形態のズボンは、熱水分移動特性が高い裏地を用いることから、下肢、特に、大腿前上部の皮膚温上昇、発汗量上昇を抑制し、結果としてズボン内温湿度上昇を抑制することができ、その機能を発現させるために、裏地の通気抵抗ＲＬに対して小さい通気抵抗を有する表地を選定すればよい。これにより、裏地がつかないよりもついた方が温熱生理学的にも官能に置いても清涼性を高めることができる。 Since the trousers of the present embodiment use a lining having high heat and moisture transfer characteristics, the increase in skin temperature and sweating amount of the lower limbs, especially the anterior upper thigh, is suppressed, and as a result, the increase in temperature and humidity in the trousers is suppressed. In order to express its function, it is sufficient to select an outer material having a small ventilation resistance with respect to the ventilation resistance RL of the lining. As a result, it is possible to improve the refreshing property even if it is placed in a thermophysiological or sensual manner by having it attached rather than not having a lining.
本実施形態のズボンに用いる裏地は、目付が５０ｇ／ｍ２以上１００ｇ／ｍ２以下が好ましく、５０ｇ／ｍ２以上８５ｇ／ｍ２以下であることがより好ましく、６０ｇ／ｍ２以上８０ｇ／ｍ２以下が更に好ましい。１００ｇ／ｍ２を超えると厚ぼったく、他方、５０ｇ／ｍ２未満になると物性に不安がある。 The lining used for the trousers of the present embodiment preferably has a basis weight of 50 g / m 2 or more and 100 g / m 2 or less, more preferably 50 g / m 2 or more and 85 g / m 2 or less, and 60 g / m 2 or more and 80 g / m. 2 or less is more preferable. If it exceeds 100 g / m 2 , it becomes thick, while if it is less than 50 g / m 2 , there is concern about its physical properties.
組織は、特に限定はなく、通常の織機を用いて製造することができる。織物の組織としては、平織、綾織、朱子織、その変化組織等が挙げられる。
製織後の後加工は、精練、プレセット、染色、仕上げ加工の順で行うとよいが、この限りではない。精練は、一般的なオープンソーパー型の拡布連続精練機が好ましく用いられる。精練時の温度は４０℃〜９０℃の範囲で、乾燥温度は１００℃〜１９５℃の範囲で適宜選定すればよい。
The structure is not particularly limited and can be produced using a normal loom. Examples of the texture of the woven fabric include plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and its modified texture.
Post-processing after weaving may be performed in the order of refining, presetting, dyeing, and finishing, but this is not the case. For smelting, a general open soaper type continuous spread smelting machine is preferably used. The temperature at the time of refining may be appropriately selected in the range of 40 ° C. to 90 ° C., and the drying temperature may be appropriately selected in the range of 100 ° C. to 195 ° C.
プレセットは、ピンテンター型の処理機にて１５０℃〜１９５℃の範囲で適宜選定すればよい。また、セット幅は、精練・乾燥後の幅から適宜選定すればよい。
染色は、液流染色法やビーム染色法、拡布連続型のコールドパッドバッチ染色法、パッドスチーム染色方法でもよく、上記染色方法を組み合わせてもよい。また、染色工程を削減するために原着糸を使用してもよい。
仕上げ加工は、拡布状態で行うことが好ましく、セルロース系繊維使用の場合は、防縮や防皺を目的として、ノンホルマリン系樹脂加工を施すとよい。この場合、樹脂加工剤に加えて柔軟剤、撥水剤やスリップ防止剤を適宜添加しても構わない。前述のカレンダー加工については、厚み低減、平滑性、接触冷感性を高めるために好ましく用いられ、ホットカレンダー加工の場合は、平滑性、接触冷感性向上効果が一層高まる。
好ましいカレンダー条件は、カレンダーの材質や裏地を構成する糸条形態にもよるが、例えば、ペーパーカレンダーの場合、３００Ｎ／ｃｍ〜１５００Ｎ／ｃｍ（約３０ｋｇ／ｃｍ〜１５０ｋｇ／ｃｍ）であると、厚みが、カレンダー前後で５％〜２０％、望ましくは１０％〜１５％薄くする目安となる。ホットカレンダーの場合、温度は８０℃〜１１０℃、より好ましくは９０℃〜１００℃がテカリ等が生じにくくなるので好ましい。
The preset may be appropriately selected in the range of 150 ° C. to 195 ° C. using a pin tenter type processing machine. Further, the set width may be appropriately selected from the width after refining and drying.
The staining may be a liquid flow staining method, a beam staining method, a continuous spreading cold pad batch staining method, a pad steam staining method, or a combination of the above staining methods. In addition, a dyed yarn may be used to reduce the dyeing process.
The finishing process is preferably performed in a spread state, and when a cellulosic fiber is used, a non-formalin resin process is preferably applied for the purpose of shrinkage prevention and wrinkle prevention. In this case, a softener, a water repellent or an anti-slip agent may be appropriately added in addition to the resin processing agent. The above-mentioned calendar processing is preferably used to reduce the thickness, smoothness, and cold contact feeling, and in the case of hot calendar processing, the smoothness and cold contact feeling are further enhanced.
The preferable calendar condition depends on the material of the calendar and the shape of the threads constituting the lining, but for example, in the case of a paper calendar, the thickness is 300 N / cm to 1500 N / cm (about 30 kg / cm to 150 kg / cm). However, it is a guideline to make it 5% to 20% thinner, preferably 10% to 15% thinner before and after the calendar. In the case of a hot calendar, the temperature is preferably 80 ° C. to 110 ° C., more preferably 90 ° C. to 100 ° C. because shine and the like are less likely to occur.
本実施形態の裏地付きズボンは、裏地の通気抵抗、表地の通気抵抗とこれらの相対関係、裏地の熱水分移動特性や含気量を最適な範囲にしており、温熱生理学的にも、官能的にも、清涼性を高めることができる。更に裏地を、温熱生理メカニズムを考慮し効果的に配置することで、より清涼性の高い裏地付きズボンを提供することができる。 The lined trousers of the present embodiment have the optimum range of the ventilation resistance of the lining, the ventilation resistance of the outer material and their relative relations, the heat-moisture transfer characteristics and the air content of the lining, and are also thermophysiologically sensory. In addition, the refreshing property can be enhanced. Further, by effectively arranging the lining in consideration of the thermal physiology mechanism, it is possible to provide lined trousers with higher refreshing property.
以下、実施例により本発明を具体的に説明するが、本発明はこれらの実施例のみに限定されるものではない。まず、実施例で用いた測定方法及び評価方法について説明する。
（１）性量
２０℃×６５％ＲＨの環境に保たれた恒温室にて布帛を一昼夜保管した後、同じく恒温室内で測定した。
経糸・緯糸密度（ｉｎｃｈあたりの本数）：デンシメーターで計測
目付（ｇ／ｍ２）：精密電子天秤
厚み（μｍ）：ＪＩＳ１０９６規格に準拠した厚み計により測定、例えば、ピーコック 定圧厚み計 ＦＦＡ１０、接圧：２．４Ｎ／ｃｍ２
Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples. First, the measurement method and the evaluation method used in the examples will be described.
(1) The fabric was stored in a constant temperature room kept in an environment of 20 ° C. × 65% RH for a whole day and night, and then measured in the same constant temperature room.
Warp / weft density (number per inch ): Measured with a densimeter Metsuke (g / m 2 ): Precision electronic balance Thickness (μm): Measured with a thickness gauge compliant with JIS1096 standard, for example, Peacock constant pressure thickness gauge FFA10, contact Pressure: 2.4 N / cm 2
（２）接触冷感値Ｑｍａｘ
同恒温室内で、カトーテック社製ＫＥＳ−Ｆ７ サーモラボIIを用い、最大熱移動量（Ｑｍａｘ値）、環境温度２０℃、湿度６５％ＲＨ、接触圧力９８ｃＮ／ｃｍ２、接触面積９ｃｍ２（３ｃｍ×３ｃｍ）を測定した。断熱材として、発泡スチロールを用いた。測定回数はＮ＝５とし、その平均値を得た。
(2) Cooling contact value Qmax
Using KES-F7 Thermolab II manufactured by Katou Tech Co., Ltd., maximum heat transfer (Qmax value), environmental temperature 20 ° C, humidity 65% RH, contact pressure 98 cN / cm 2 , contact area 9 cm 2 (3 cm x) 3 cm) was measured. Styrofoam was used as the heat insulating material. The number of measurements was N = 5, and the average value was obtained.
（３）吸湿率Ｍ（裏地吸湿率）
８０℃の送風乾燥機で１時間予備乾燥をし、次いで、２０℃×６５％ＲＨの恒温室にて布帛を一昼夜保管した後、同じく恒温室内で布帛重量を測定した。測定回数はＮ＝５とし、その平均値を得た。
(3) Moisture absorption rate M (lining moisture absorption rate)
The fabric was pre-dried in a blower dryer at 80 ° C. for 1 hour, and then the fabric was stored in a constant temperature room at 20 ° C. × 65% RH for a whole day and night, and then the weight of the fabric was measured in the same constant temperature room. The number of measurements was N = 5, and the average value was obtained.
（４）通気抵抗Ｒ（裏地ＲＬ、表地ＲＳ）
同恒温室内で、カトーテック社製ＫＥＳ−Ｆ８通気抵抗測定器を用い、表地（ＲＳ）、裏地（ＲＬ）の通気抵抗を測定した。測定回数は測定箇所を変え、Ｎ＝５とし、その平均値を得た。
(4) Ventilation resistance R (lining RL, outer material RS)
In the same constant temperature room, the ventilation resistance of the outer material (RS) and the lining (RL) was measured using a KES-F8 ventilation resistance measuring device manufactured by Katou Tech Co., Ltd. The number of measurements was changed at different measurement points, N = 5, and the average value was obtained.
（５）空隙指数Ｖ
走査型電子顕微鏡（５０倍〜１００倍が好ましい）で裏地表面写真を５箇所撮影、画像解析装置の二値化法により、繊維糸条の面積占有率（％）を求め、平均値を得、この値から空隙率（％）を算出した（空隙率＝１００−面積占有率）。空隙率と厚み（ｍｍ）を乗算し、空隙指数を算出した。
(5) Void index V
Photographs of the lining surface were taken at 5 locations with a scanning electron microscope (preferably 50 to 100 times), and the area occupancy (%) of the fibers was obtained by the binarization method of the image analyzer, and the average value was obtained. The porosity (%) was calculated from this value (porosity = 100-area occupancy). The porosity was multiplied by the thickness (mm) to calculate the porosity index.
（６）裏地面積占有率（％）
ＣＡＤを用いた画像処理により、表地の型紙と裏地の型紙の面積比から、裏地の面積占有率を算出した。面積計算には、ポケット布や、天狗布、ベルト布は除いて計算した。図１に、総裏仕様の例を、図２に、前当て仕様の例（裏地短め、裏地通常）を示す。
(6) Lining area occupancy rate (%)
By image processing using CAD, the area occupancy of the lining was calculated from the area ratio of the outer pattern and the lining pattern. The area was calculated excluding pocket cloth, tengu cloth, and belt cloth. FIG. 1 shows an example of a total lining specification, and FIG. 2 shows an example of a front contact specification (short lining, normal lining).
以下、実施例で用いたズボンの着用試験方法について説明する。
（７）着用官能試験
被験者は身長１７０〜１７５ｃｍ、体重６０〜７０ｋｇの健全な男性１０名を選定した。下半身は、後述するズボンの下に綿１００％のブリーフ、綿、ポリエステル混の靴下、上半身は、肌着として綿６０％、キュプラ２０％、ポリエステル２０％フライス（グンゼ社製ＹＧ−Ｘ）、半袖シャツとして、綿６５％、ポリエステル３５％混紡を供試した。いずれの被験者にも、ノーネクタイとし、シャツ第一ボタンをはめずに着用させた。
３０℃×５０％ＲＨの環境にて、まずは裏地なしの綿１００％ズボン着用の状態で１５分坐位安静にさせた。続いて、試作のズボンを１種ずつランダムに着用（乱数表使用）、以下の指定動作をさせ、１着ごと官能評価を実施した。回答は、ＳＤ法による以下の５段階評定とし、その平均値を示した。平均値が３．４以上であると好ましい。
［指定動作］
脚曲げ伸ばし繰り返し５回−座り、立ち繰り返し５回、ズボン脱衣して綿１００％ズボン着用し５分安静後、次のズボン着用試験へ移行
［清涼感評価（清涼性）］
５：非常に清涼
４：清涼
３：どちらともいえない
２：やや暑い
１：非常に暑い
Hereinafter, the trouser wearing test method used in the examples will be described.
(7) Wearing sensory test The subjects were selected from 10 healthy men with a height of 170 to 175 cm and a weight of 60 to 70 kg. The lower body is 100% cotton briefs, cotton and polyester mixed socks under the trousers described later, and the upper body is 60% cotton, 20% cupra, 20% polyester milling (YG-X manufactured by Gunze), short sleeve shirt as underwear. As a result, a blend of 65% cotton and 35% polyester was tested. All subjects wore no ties and did not wear the first button on the shirt.
In an environment of 30 ° C. × 50% RH, the patient was first allowed to sit and rest for 15 minutes while wearing unlined 100% cotton trousers. Subsequently, the prototype trousers were randomly worn one by one (using a random number table), the following designated actions were performed, and sensory evaluation was performed for each pair of trousers. The answers were based on the following five-grade rating by the SD method, and the average value was shown. The average value is preferably 3.4 or more.
[Specified operation]
Leg bending and stretching 5 times-sitting, standing 5 times, undressing trousers, wearing 100% cotton trousers, resting for 5 minutes, then moving on to the next trouser wearing test [coolness evaluation (coolness)]
5: Very cool 4: Cool 3: Neither 2: Slightly hot 1: Very hot
（８）着用生理試験
被験者は身長１７０〜１７５ｃｍ、体重６０〜７０ｋｇの健全な男性５名を選定した。各被験者共にサーカディアンリズムを考慮し、摂食コントロールのもとで１日１着の実験を行った。
下半身は、ズボンの下に綿１００％のブリーフ、綿、ポリエステル混の靴下、上半身は、肌着として綿６０％、キュプラ２０％、ポリエステル２０％フライス（グンゼ社製ＹＧ−Ｘ）、半袖シャツとして、綿６５％、ポリエステル３５％混紡を供試した。いずれの被験者にも、ノーネクタイとし、シャツ第一ボタンをはめずに着用させた。
３２℃×５０％ＲＨの環境にて、試作ズボン着用の状態で３０分間坐位安静後、時速５ｋｍにて１０分間トレッドミル上で歩行させ、終了後１０分座位安静にさせた。着用試験中は、安静開始から歩行後安静終了まで１０秒ごとの平均皮膚温を得た。皮膚温は５人分のデータを時間軸に平均した後、測定開始から終了までの区間平均値を得た。平均皮膚温は、皮膚温度センサー（グラム社製ＬＴ−２Ｎ−１２）を被験者の右胸、上腕、大腿、下腿、ラマナサンの４点法に従い貼り付けて採取した。歩行後安静時に、各ズボンの清涼性についての官能評価を実施した。回答は、ＳＤ法による以下の５段階評定とし、その平均値を示した。平均値が３．４以上であると好ましい。
［清涼感評価（歩行後清涼性）］
５：非常に清涼
４：清涼
３：どちらともいえない
２：やや暑い
１：非常に暑い
(8) Wearing physiology test Five healthy men with a height of 170 to 175 cm and a weight of 60 to 70 kg were selected as subjects. In consideration of circadian rhythm, each subject conducted an experiment of wearing once a day under feeding control.
The lower body is 100% cotton briefs, cotton and polyester mixed socks under the trousers, and the upper body is 60% cotton, 20% cupra, 20% polyester milling (Gunze YG-X) as underwear, as a short sleeve shirt. A blend of 65% cotton and 35% polyester was tested. All subjects wore no ties and did not wear the first button on the shirt.
In an environment of 32 ° C. × 50% RH, the patient was allowed to sit and rest for 30 minutes while wearing prototype trousers, then walked on a treadmill at a speed of 5 km / h for 10 minutes, and was allowed to sit and rest for 10 minutes after the completion. During the wearing test, the average skin temperature was obtained every 10 seconds from the start of rest to the end of rest after walking. After averaging the data for 5 people on the time axis, the skin temperature was obtained as the interval average value from the start to the end of the measurement. The average skin temperature was collected by attaching a skin temperature sensor (LT-2N-12 manufactured by Gram Co., Ltd.) according to the four-point method of the subject's right chest, upper arm, thigh, lower leg, and ramanasan. A sensory evaluation of the coolness of each trouser was performed at rest after walking. The answers were based on the following five-grade rating by the SD method, and the average value was shown. The average value is preferably 3.4 or more.
[Cool feeling evaluation (coolness after walking)]
5: Very cool 4: Cool 3: Neither 2: Slightly hot 1: Very hot
[裏地付きズボン試作]
各種表地と裏地を用いた、ズボンをＪＩＳ標準サイズＡ６にて縫製した。裏地の縫製時には、織機上の経糸方向が胴体経方向になるように縫製した。
［ウール／ポリエステル混紡表地Ｘ］
経糸２／７２、緯糸２／７２のウールとポリエステルの混紡糸のトップ染めを経て紡績糸を得、仕上げ密度が経６４本／ｉｎｃｈ、緯５５本／ｉｎｃｈ、通気抵抗値が０．０８３Ｋｐａ・ｓ／ｍの平織表地Ｘを用意した。
［ウール表地Ｙ］
経糸２／６０、緯糸２／６０のウール紡績糸を得、定法の染色加工の後、仕上げ密度が経６２本／ｉｎｃｈ、緯４８本／ｉｎｃｈ、通気抵抗が０．１００Ｋｐａ・ｓ／ｍの平織表地Ｙを用意した。
続いて、この表地Ｘと表地Ｙを用いて、下記実施例、比較例中に詳細を示す裏地を用いて、紳士用ズボンを１６着作製した。表地Ｘによるズボンは、実施例１〜８、比較例１〜７の１５種、表地Ｙによるズボンは、実施例９の１種である。尚、比較例５として、裏地無しも用意した。
裏地の構成、物性、配置場所、面積占有率及び着用試験結果を以下の表１−１、１−２に示す。
[Prototype lined trousers]
Trousers using various outer and lining materials were sewn in JIS standard size A6. When sewing the lining, the lining was sewn so that the warp direction on the loom was the body warp direction.
[Wool / polyester blended outer material X]
A spun yarn is obtained through top dyeing of a blended yarn of wool and polyester of 2/72 warp and 2/72 weft, and the finishing density is 64 warp / inch, 55 weave / inch, and the ventilation resistance value is 0.083 Kpa · s. A plain weave outer material X of / m was prepared.
[Wool outer material Y]
Wool spun yarns of 2/60 warp and 2/60 weft are obtained, and after dyeing by a standard method, a plain weave with a finishing density of 62 warp / inch, 48 weft / inch, and a ventilation resistance of 0.100 Kpa · s / m. Outer material Y was prepared.
Subsequently, using the outer material X and the outer material Y, 16 men's trousers were produced using the lining shown in detail in the following Examples and Comparative Examples. The trousers made of the outer material X are 15 types of Examples 1 to 8 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7, and the trousers made of the outer material Y are one type of Example 9. As Comparative Example 5, no lining was also prepared.
The composition, physical properties, placement location, area occupancy and wearing test results of the lining are shown in Tables 1-1 and 1-2 below.
［実施例１、５、６］
経糸用にキュプラアンモニウムレーヨン（旭化成（製）ベンベルグ）５６ｄｔｅｘ／４５ｆを、処理温度８５℃、処理時間２０分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、１０００回／ｍのＳ撚糸を得た。続いて、緯糸用にベンベルグ８４ｄｔｅｘ／４５ｆを、処理温度８５℃、処理時間２０分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、１８２５回／ｍ、ＳＺ撚糸を得た。これらをエアージェットルーム織機により、平織物を得た後、染色加工工程１により裏地１を得た。
[Examples 1, 5, 6]
Cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg, Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 56dtex / 45f for warp was subjected to anti-twisting set twice at a treatment temperature of 85 ° C. and a treatment time of 20 minutes to obtain 1000 times / m S-twisted yarn. Subsequently, Bemberg 84dtex / 45f for weft was subjected to a twist-prevention set twice at a treatment temperature of 85 ° C. and a treatment time of 20 minutes to obtain SZ twisted yarn at 1825 times / m. After obtaining a plain woven fabric by an air jet room loom, a lining 1 was obtained by a dyeing process 1.
＜染色加工工程１＞
連続精練−プレセット−パッドスチーム染色・ソーピング・乾燥−柔軟樹脂加工−ホットペーパーカレンダー（温度９０℃、１０００Ｎ／ｃｍ）−検査
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で０．１４７ｍｍから０．１２８ｍｍに１３％変化した。
この裏地を、実施例１については、図２に例示したような前当て仕様、ＫＬ（ニーライン）よりも２０ｃｍ下（前当て通常長さ）としてズボンをＡ法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比４２％、表地前身対比８４％であった。実施例５については、図１に例示したような総裏仕様としてズボンを縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比９０％であった。
実施例６については、図２に例示したような前当て仕様、ＫＬよりも１５ｃｍ下（前当て短め）としてズボンをＡ法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比３６％、表地前身対比７２％であった。
<Dyeing process 1>
Continuous refining-Preset-Pad steam dyeing / soaping / drying-Soft resin processing-Hot paper calendar (
In Example 1, the lining was sewn by the A method with the front pad specification as illustrated in FIG. 2 , 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor. For Example 5, it was sewing pants as full lining specification as illustrated in Figure 1. The lining area was 90% of the outer material area.
In Example 6, the trousers were sewn by the A method with the front contact specifications as illustrated in FIG. 2 and 15 cm below the KL (shorter front contact). The lining area was 36% of the outer material area and 72% of the outer material predecessor.
［実施例２］
経糸用にポリエステル５６ｄｔｅｘ／２４ｆを処理温度８０℃、処理時間３０分で撚り止めセットを実施し、６００回／ｍのＳ撚糸を得た。緯糸用にビスコースレーヨン８４ｄｔｅｘ４５ｆを、処理温度８０℃、処理時間４０分で撚り止めセットを実施し、１８２５回／ｍのＳＺ撚糸を得た。これらを用いてエアージェットルーム織機により、平織物を得た後、染色加工工程２により裏地２を得た。
[Example 2]
A polyester 56dtex / 24f for warp was subjected to a twist-prevention set at a treatment temperature of 80 ° C. and a treatment time of 30 minutes to obtain 600 times / m S-twisted yarn. A viscose rayon 84dtex45f for weft was subjected to a twist-prevention set at a treatment temperature of 80 ° C. and a treatment time of 40 minutes to obtain 1825 times / m SZ twisted yarn. After obtaining a plain woven fabric by an air jet room loom using these, a
＜染色加工工程２＞
連続精練−プレセット−液流染色・ソーピング−乾燥−パッドスチーム染色・ソーピング−乾燥−樹脂加工−コールドペーパーカレンダー（温度常温、１０００Ｎ／ｃｍ）−検査
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で０．１５４ｍｍから０．１４０ｍｍに１０％変化した。
この裏地を、実施例２については、図２に例示したような前当て仕様、ＫＬ（ニーライン）よりも２０ｃｍ下（前当て通常長さ）としてズボンをＡ法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比４２％、表地前身対比８４％であった。
<
Continuous scouring-Preset-Liquid flow dyeing / soaping-Drying-Pad steam dyeing / soaping-Drying-Resin processing-Cold paper calendar (temperature room temperature, 1000N / cm) -Inspection Lining thickness is 0.154mm to 0 before and after the calendar It changed to 140 mm by 10%.
In Example 2, the lining was sewn by the A method with the front pad specification as illustrated in FIG. 2 , 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor.
［参考例３］
経糸用にキュプラアンモニウムレーヨン（旭化成（製）ベンベルグ）５６ｄｔｅｘ／４５ｆを、処理温度７０℃、処理時間２０分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、１０００回／ｍのＳ撚糸を得た。続いて、緯糸用にベンベルグ８４ｄｔｅｘ／４５ｆを、処理温度７０℃、処理時間２０分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、１８２５回／ｍのＳＺ撚糸を得た。これらを用いてエアージェットルーム織機により、平織物を得た後、染色加工工程１により裏地３を得た。
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で０．１４６ｍｍから０．１３３に１０％変化した。
この裏地を、実施例３については、図２に例示したような前当て仕様、ＫＬ（ニーライン）よりも２０ｃｍ下（前当て通常長さ）としてズボンをＡ法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比４２％、表地前身対比８４％であった。
[ Reference example 3]
Cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg, Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 56dtex / 45f for warp was subjected to anti-twisting set twice at a treatment temperature of 70 ° C. and a treatment time of 20 minutes to obtain 1000 times / m S-twisted yarn. Subsequently, a Bemberg 84dtex / 45f for weft was subjected to a twist-prevention set twice at a treatment temperature of 70 ° C. and a treatment time of 20 minutes to obtain 1825 times / m SZ twisted yarn. After obtaining a plain woven fabric by an air jet room loom using these, a lining 3 was obtained by a dyeing process 1.
The thickness of the lining changed by 10% from 0.146 mm to 0.133 before and after the calendar.
In Example 3, the lining was sewn by the A method with the front pad specification as illustrated in FIG. 2, 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor.
［実施例４］
経糸用にキュプラアンモニウムレーヨン（旭化成（製）ベンベルグ）８４ｄｔｅｘ／４５ｆを、処理温度７０℃、処理時間４０分で撚り止めセットを実施し、６００回／ｍのＳ撚糸を得た。続いて、緯糸用にベンベルグ８４ｄｔｅｘ／４５ｆを、処理温度７０℃、処理時間４０分で撚り止めセットを実施し、６００回／ｍのＳＺ撚糸を得た。これら用いてをエアージェットルーム織機により、平織物を得た後、染色加工工程３により裏地４を得た。
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で０．１５４ｍｍから０．１４０ｍｍに１０％変化した。
[Example 4]
Cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg, Asahi Kasei Corporation) 84dtex / 45f for warp was subjected to a twist-prevention set at a treatment temperature of 70 ° C. and a treatment time of 40 minutes to obtain 600 times / m S-twisted yarn. Subsequently, Bemberg 84dtex / 45f for weft was subjected to a twist-preventing set at a treatment temperature of 70 ° C. and a treatment time of 40 minutes to obtain 600 times / m SZ twisted yarn. After using these to obtain a plain woven fabric by an air jet room loom, a lining 4 was obtained by a dyeing process 3.
The thickness of the lining changed by 10% from 0.154 mm to 0.140 mm before and after the calendar.
＜染色加工工程３＞
連続精練−プレセット−パッドスチーム染色・ソーピング・乾燥−柔軟樹脂加工−コールドペーパーカレンダー（温度常温、１０００Ｎ／ｃｍ）−検査
この裏地を、実施例４については、図２に例示したような前当て仕様、ＫＬ（ニーライン）よりも２０ｃｍ下（前当て通常長さ）としてズボンをＡ法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比４２％、表地前身対比８４％であった。
<Dyeing process 3>
Continuous scouring-Preset-Pad steam dyeing / soaping / drying-Soft resin processing-Cold paper calendar (temperature room temperature, 1000 N / cm) -Inspection This lining is applied to the front part as illustrated in FIG. 2 for Example 4. The trousers were sewn by the A method with the specifications, 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor.
[実施例７]
経糸用にキュプラアンモニウムレーヨン（旭化成（製）ベンベルグ）５６ｄｔｅｘ／４５ｆを、処理温度８５℃、処理時間２０分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、１０００回／ｍのＳ撚糸を得た。続いて、緯糸用にベンベルグ８４ｄｔｅｘ／４５ｆを、処理温度８５℃、処理時間２０分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、１８２５回／ｍ、ＳＺ撚糸を得た。これらをエアージェットルーム織機により、平織物を得た後、染色加工工程３により裏地５を得た。
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で０．１４０ｍｍから０．１２８ｍｍに１０％変化した。
この裏地を、実施例７については、図２に例示したような前当て仕様、ＫＬ（ニーライン）よりも２０ｃｍ下（前当て通常長さ）としてズボンをＡ法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比４２％、表地前身対比８４％であった。
[Example 7]
Cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg, Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 56dtex / 45f for warp was subjected to anti-twisting set twice at a treatment temperature of 85 ° C. and a treatment time of 20 minutes to obtain 1000 times / m S-twisted yarn. Subsequently, Bemberg 84dtex / 45f for weft was subjected to a twist-prevention set twice at a treatment temperature of 85 ° C. and a treatment time of 20 minutes to obtain SZ twisted yarn at 1825 times / m. After obtaining a plain woven fabric by an air jet room loom, a lining 5 was obtained by a dyeing process 3.
The thickness of the lining changed by 10% from 0.140 mm to 0.128 mm before and after the calendar.
In Example 7, the trousers were sewn by the A method with the lining set to 20 cm below the KL (knee line) and the front pad specification as illustrated in FIG. 2 (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor.
[参考例８]
経糸用にキュプラアンモニウムレーヨン（旭化成（製）ベンベルグ）５６ｄｔｅｘ／４５ｆを、処理温度７０℃、処理時間２０分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、１０００回／ｍのＳ撚糸を得た。続いて、緯糸用にベンベルグ８４ｄｔｅｘ／４５ｆを、処理温度７０℃、処理時間２０分を二回、撚り止めセットを実施し、１８２５回／ｍのＳＺ撚糸を得た。これらを用いてエアージェットルーム織機により、平織物を得た後、染色加工工程３により裏地６を得た。
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で０．１４７ｍｍから０．１３７ｍｍに７％変化した。
この裏地を、実施例８については、図２に例示したような前当て仕様、ＫＬ（ニーライン）よりも２０ｃｍ下（前当て通常長さ）としてズボンをＡ法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比４２％、表地前身対比８４％であった。
[Reference example 8]
Cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg, Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) 56dtex / 45f for warp was subjected to anti-twisting set twice at a treatment temperature of 70 ° C. and a treatment time of 20 minutes to obtain 1000 times / m S-twisted yarn. Subsequently, a Bemberg 84dtex / 45f for weft was subjected to a twist-prevention set twice at a treatment temperature of 70 ° C. and a treatment time of 20 minutes to obtain 1825 times / m SZ twisted yarn. After obtaining a plain woven fabric by an air jet room loom using these, a lining 6 was obtained by a dyeing process 3.
The thickness of the lining changed by 7% from 0.147 mm to 0.137 mm before and after the calendar.
In Example 8, the lining was sewn by the A method with the front pad specification as illustrated in FIG. 2, 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor.
[実施例９]
経緯糸に、キュプラアンモニウムレーヨン（旭化成（製）ベンベルグ）短繊維６０／−（単糸１．４ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長３８ｍｍ、Ｋｓ＝３．８）を用いて、エアージェットルーム織機により平織物を得た後、染色加工工程３により裏地７を得た。
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で０．１７６ｍｍから０．１６０ｍｍに１０％変化した。
この裏地を、実施例９については、図２に例示したような前当て仕様、ＫＬ（ニーライン）よりも２０ｃｍ下（前当て通常長さ）としてズボンをＡ法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比４２％、表地前身対比８４％であった。
[Example 9]
A plain woven fabric was obtained by an air jet room loom using cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg, Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) short fiber 60 /-(single yarn 1.4 dtex, fiber length 38 mm, Ks = 3.8) as the warp and weft. After that, the lining 7 was obtained by the dyeing process 3.
The thickness of the lining changed by 10% from 0.176 mm to 0.160 mm before and after the calendar.
In Example 9, the lining was sewn by the A method with the front pad specification as illustrated in FIG. 2 , 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor.
［比較例１、６］
経緯糸に、ポリエステルの融着延伸仮撚加工糸１００ｄｔｅｘ／３６ｆを用いて、ウォータージェットルーム織機により平織物を得た後、染色加工工程４により裏地８を得た。ここで融着延伸仮撚加工糸とは、糸長方向に加撚時の撚り状態を保持している部分（いわゆる「未解撚部分」）と、解撚作用が集中して形成された解撚と同一方向の撚りとなっている過剰解撚部分とを有している糸である。
[Comparative Examples 1 and 6]
A polyester fusion-stretched false twisted yarn 100dtex / 36f was used as the warp and weft to obtain a plain woven fabric by a water jet room loom, and then a lining 8 was obtained by a dyeing process 4. Here, the fusion-stretched false-twisted yarn is a portion that retains the twisted state at the time of twisting in the yarn length direction (so-called "untwisted portion") and a solution formed by concentrating the untwisting action. A yarn having an excessively untwisted portion that is twisted in the same direction as the twist.
＜染色加工工程４＞
連続精練−プレセット−液流染色・ソーピング−乾燥−仕上げ加工−検査
<Dyeing process 4>
Continuous refining-Preset-Liquid dyeing / soaping-Drying-Finishing-Inspection
この裏地を、比較例１については、図１に例示したような総裏仕様としてズボンを縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比９０％であった。比較例６については、図２に例示したような前当て仕様、ＫＬ（ニーライン）よりも２０ｃｍ下（前当て通常長さ）としてズボンを常法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比４２％、表地前身対比８４％であった。 The backing, for Comparative Example 1 was sewn pants as full lining specification as illustrated in Figure 1. The lining area was 90% of the outer material area. In Comparative Example 6, the trousers were sewn by a conventional method with the front contact specifications as illustrated in FIG. 2 , 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front contact). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor.
［比較例２］
経糸にポリエステル５６ｄｔｅｘ／３６ｆ、緯糸にポリエステル８４ｄｔｅｘ／３６ｆを用いて、ウォータージェットルーム織機により平織物を得た後、染色加工工程４により裏地９を得た。
この裏地を、比較例２については、図２に例示したような前当て仕様、ＫＬ（ニーライン）よりも２０ｃｍ下（前当て通常長さ）としてズボンを定法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比４２％、表地前身対比８４％であった。
[Comparative Example 2]
Using polyester 56dtex / 36f for the warp and polyester 84dtex / 36f for the weft, a plain woven fabric was obtained by a water jet room loom, and then a lining 9 was obtained by a dyeing process 4.
For Comparative Example 2, the lining was sewn by a conventional method with the front pad specifications as illustrated in FIG. 2 , 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor.
［比較例３］
経糸にキュプラアンモニウムレーヨン（旭化成（製）ベンベルグ）８４ｄｔｅｘ／４５ｆ、緯糸に同１１０ｄｔｅｘ／７５ｆを用いて、エアージェットルーム織機により、平織物を得た後、染色加工工程３により裏地１０を得た。
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で０．１０４ｍｍから０．１００ｍｍに４％変化した。
この裏地を、比較例３については、図２に例示したような前当て仕様、ＫＬ（ニーライン）よりも２０ｃｍ下（前当て通常長さ）としてズボンを定法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比４２％、表地前身対比８４％であった。
[Comparative Example 3]
Using cuprammonium rayon (Bemberg, Asahi Kasei Corporation) 84dtex / 45f for the warp and 110dtex / 75f for the weft, a plain woven fabric was obtained by an air jet room loom, and then a lining 10 was obtained by a dyeing process 3.
The thickness of the lining changed by 4% from 0.104 mm to 0.100 mm before and after the calendar.
For Comparative Example 3, the lining was sewn by a conventional method with the front pad specifications as illustrated in FIG. 2 , 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor.
［比較例４］
経緯糸に、キュプラアンモニウムレーヨン（旭化成（製）ベンベルグ）短繊維６０／−（単糸１．４ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長３８ｍｍ、Ｋｓ＝３．８）を用いて、エアージェットルーム織機により平織物を得た後、染色加工工程３により裏地９を得た。
裏地の厚みはカレンダー前後で０．１７６ｍｍから０．１６０ｍｍに１０％変化した。
この裏地を、比較例４については、図２に例示したような前当て仕様、ＫＬ（ニーライン）よりも２０ｃｍ下（前当て通常長さ）としてズボンを定法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比４２％、表地前身対比８４％であった。
[Comparative Example 4]
A plain woven fabric was obtained by an air jet room loom using cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg, Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) short fiber 60 /-(single yarn 1.4 dtex, fiber length 38 mm, Ks = 3.8) as the warp and weft. After that, the lining 9 was obtained by the dyeing process 3.
The thickness of the lining changed by 10% from 0.176 mm to 0.160 mm before and after the calendar.
For Comparative Example 4, the lining was sewn by a conventional method with the front pad specifications as illustrated in FIG. 2 , 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front pad). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor.
［比較例５］
表地Ｘを用いて、裏地無しのズボンを縫製した。
[Comparative Example 5]
Unlined trousers were sewn using the outer material X.
［比較例７]
経緯糸に、キュプラアンモニウムレーヨン（旭化成（製）ベンベルグ）短繊維６０／−（単糸１．４ｄｔｅｘ、繊維長３８ｍｍ、Ｋｓ＝３．３）を用いて、エアージェットルーム織機により平織物を得た後、染色加工工程３により裏地１１を得た。
裏地の厚みは０．１７２ｍｍから０．１６５ｍｍに４％変化した。
この裏地を、比較例７については、図２に例示したような前当て仕様、ＫＬ（ニーライン）よりも２０ｃｍ下（前当て通常長さ）としてズボンを定法により縫製した。裏地面積は表地面積対比４２％、表地前身対比８４％であった。
[Comparative Example 7]
A plain woven fabric was obtained by an air jet room loom using cupraammonium rayon (Bemberg, Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) short fiber 60 /-(single yarn 1.4 dtex, fiber length 38 mm, Ks = 3.3) as the warp and weft. After that, the lining 11 was obtained by the dyeing process 3.
The thickness of the lining changed by 4% from 0.172 mm to 0.165 mm.
For Comparative Example 7, the lining was sewn by a conventional method with the front contact specifications as illustrated in FIG. 2 , 20 cm below the KL (knee line) (normal length of the front contact). The lining area was 42% of the outer material area and 84% of the outer material predecessor.
本発明に係る裏地付きズボンは、裏地素材や性量、熱移動特性、物理特性だけではなく、裏地と表地の通気性の関係、裏地の配置方法、ズボンの縫製方法を適切にすることにより、裏地がつかないよりも、温熱生理学的にも官能的にも快適で、清涼性を高めることができる。 The lined trousers according to the present invention can be obtained by appropriately adjusting not only the lining material, physical characteristics, heat transfer characteristics, and physical characteristics, but also the breathability relationship between the lining and the outer material, the lining arrangement method, and the trouser sewing method. It is more comfortable in terms of thermophysiology and sensuality than unlined, and can enhance the coolness.
Claims (6)
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