EP3696305B1 - Textilgewebe mit kontollierter elastizität zur herstellung von bekleidungs-, unterbekleidungs-, orthesen- und sitzelementen - Google Patents

Textilgewebe mit kontollierter elastizität zur herstellung von bekleidungs-, unterbekleidungs-, orthesen- und sitzelementen Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3696305B1
EP3696305B1 EP20154484.8A EP20154484A EP3696305B1 EP 3696305 B1 EP3696305 B1 EP 3696305B1 EP 20154484 A EP20154484 A EP 20154484A EP 3696305 B1 EP3696305 B1 EP 3696305B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarns
textile
elements
underwear
orthoses
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Active
Application number
EP20154484.8A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP3696305A1 (de
Inventor
Jean-Pierre CHEYNET
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
BERTHEAS and CIE
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BERTHEAS and CIE
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B17/00—Selection of special materials for underwear
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/02—Underwear
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/06—Details of garments

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a textile with controlled elastic properties. It finds its field of application in particular in elements of underwear, clothing, such as, for example, bra straps, elastic waistbands of underwear or of shorts for sports activities. But also in the field of orthopedics, more particularly implementing an elastic compression action, or even in the field of seats, such as in particular seats or seat backs likely to be implemented in the field in particular of the transport of people.
  • controlled elasticity we mean within the meaning of the invention, the ability developed by the textile in question to be able to stretch when it is subjected to a stress, while opposing an elastic restoring force, this ability of elongation being however limited.
  • the primary objective sought by the present invention resides in the simultaneous search for user comfort and support in the event of higher intensity or frequency stress.
  • the textiles used are generally woven or knitted articles having high elasticity in the warp direction, and endowed with a power of elastic return (high compression effect).
  • the constituent threads of these fabrics developing elastic properties are traditionally covered type threads, typically consisting of a core of elastodiene or preferably of elastofiber, such as elastane, and cover threads of another material (see example US 2016/281275 ).
  • the elongation capacity of these textile articles, in particular woven articles is between 60 and 130% in the longitudinal direction, and when such articles develop elastic properties in both directions (warp direction and weft direction), the capacity elongation is typically greater than or equal to 30% in the weft direction.
  • the elastic components with long elongation do not ensure the compression and the damping required during stronger, more intense and/or faster stresses.
  • the objective sought by the present invention is precisely to be able to have a textile element capable, at the same time, of ensuring the comfort of the user of the underwear, the garment, the orthosis or the seat integrating this textile, and as a corollary, to have elastic properties such that they meet the desired result of elastic compression, in particular in the event of significant and/or rapid stresses.
  • the invention relates to a textile for the production of elements of underwear, clothing, orthoses or seat elements with controlled elasticity, integrating at least in the main direction of stress highly extensible yarns .
  • said highly extensible yarns are associated with yarns that are also extensible in the same direction, but whose elongation properties are lower than those of highly extensible yarns, and typically close to 50% of those of highly extensible yarns , these short-stretch elastic threads typically constituting an elastic stop.
  • the restoring force exerted by the yarns with reduced extensibility is between 25 and 50% of that exerted by the yarns with highly extensible elongation. If this restoring force of the yarns with reduced extensibility is less than 25% of that exerted by the yarns with highly extensible elongation, the braking or compression effect sought for the textile in question, in particular when the latter is subjected to significant stresses or of high frequency (intense effort, sport, etc.) is not ensured, causing all the desired benefit to be lost to said textile. As a corollary, in the case where said restoring force is greater than 50% of that exerted by highly extensible elongation yarns, the desired effect of comfort at rest, or when said textile is subjected to reduced stresses, is absent.
  • this double combination of characteristics makes it possible to combine yarns with differentiated extensibility and restoring force, and thus to provide the desired result combining both comfort and elastic compression.
  • This combination since the person skilled in the art could naturally be inclined to consider the limiting factor arising from the specific characteristics of yarns with low extensibility, to dissuade him from using them, or on the contrary to favor their containment efficiency by sacrificing comfort.
  • the yarns with an elastic property integrated into the textile are covered yarns, the core of which advantageously consists of elastane, polyurethane, silicone or elastodiene, and cover advantageously made of polyamide, polyester or other materials, and in particular other son or synthetic fibers.
  • the elongation capacity of short-stretch elastic threads is close to 50% of that of long-stretch elastic threads, and advantageously close to the maximum elongation capacity desired for the textile in question.
  • the maximum elongation of said suspender is approximately 90% relative to its initial length, for a restoring force at 30% elongation close to 400 cN/cm.
  • Another application of the invention relates to the production of a waistband for shorts or underwear, in particular for sports use, then has a maximum elongation of approximately 120 to 150% of the initial length of the fabric constituting said belt, for a restoring force at 30% elongation between 220 and 300 cN/cm.
  • the weave of the structure implemented has a stiffening (the stiffening being defined as the ratio between the length of the yarns used and the length of the fabric at rest), this stiffening being selected to always be greater than the elongation capacity of the elastic yarns with the greatest elongation capacity.
  • the example embodiment which follows relates more specifically to the production of a woven strip for making a bra or sports bra strap, that is to say for the production of an element of a part of a garment likely to be subjected to significant mechanical stresses, in this case during the practice of sport.
  • This embodiment uses a conventional loom with a comb density of 10.25 teeth per cm. It uses a double weft (T), each consisting of a textured polyamide yarn with a count of 2/78 decitex, the reduction of the finished fabric being 110 counts per inch.
  • T double weft
  • the textile element thus produced has a maximum elongation capacity of approximately 90% relative to the initial length, and develops a restoring force at 30% elongation of the order of 400 cN/cm.
  • the respective proportion of long-stretch yarns and short-stretch yarns is close to 50-50; only the elastic threads on each selvage are made with long-stretch elastic threads to facilitate the realization of the edge.
  • a textile structure is produced similar to that previously described, but which this time has a maximum elongation of approximately 120 at 150% with respect to the initial length, in addition to a restoring force at 30% elongation typically comprised between 200 and 300 cN/cm.
  • the example described relates to a woven article.
  • the invention also applies to textile structures obtained by knitting or braiding, the fundamental elements of the invention being retained.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)

Claims (8)

  1. Textilgewebe mit kontrollierter Elastizität zur Herstellung von Unterbekleidungs- Kleidungs-, Orthesen- oder Sitzelementen, das zumindest in der Hauptbeanspruchungsrichtung dehnbare Fäden mit elastischen Eigenschaften enthält, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass diese dehnbaren Fäden (A) in einer gleichen Richtung mit stärker dehnbaren Fäden (A1) kombiniert sind, deren Dehnungseigenschaften größer sind als die der dehnbaren Fäden (A), und dadurch, dass die Rückstellkraft der Fäden mit geringerer Dehnbarkeit (A) zwischen 25 und 50 % derjenigen liegt, die von den Fäden mit starker Dehnfähigkeit (A1) ausgeübt wird.
  2. Textilgewebe mit kontrollierter Elastizität zur Herstellung von Unterbekleidungs- Kleidungs-, Orthesen- oder Sitzelementen, nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Dehnfähigkeit der Fäden mit geringerer Dehnbarkeit (A) ungefähr 50 % derjenigen der stark dehnbaren Fäden (A1) beträgt.
  3. Textilgewebe mit kontrollierter Elastizität zur Herstellung von Unterbekleidungs- Kleidungs-, Orthesen- oder Sitzelementen, nach einem der Ansprüche 1 und 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der jeweilige Anteil der stark dehnbaren Fäden (A1) und der Fäden mit geringerer Dehnbarkeit (A) ungefähr 50-50 beträgt.
  4. Textilgewebe mit kontrollierter Elastizität zur Herstellung von Unterbekleidungs- Kleidungs-, Orthesen- oder Sitzelementen, nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es sich bei den in das Textilgewebe integrierten Fäden mit elastischen Eigenschaften (A, A1) um umsponnene Fäden handelt, deren Kern vorteilhafterweise aus Elasthan, Polyurethan, Silikon oder Elastodien besteht und deren Umhüllung vorteilhafterweise aus Polyamid, Polyester oder anderen synthetischen Fäden oder Fasern besteht.
  5. Textilgewebe mit kontrollierter Elastizität zur Herstellung von Unterbekleidungs- Kleidungs-, Orthesen- oder Sitzelementen, nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die dehnbaren Fäden mit elastischen Eigenschaften (A, A1) in einer Struktur integriert sind, deren Bindung eine Welligkeit aufweist, die Welligkeit wird so gewählt, dass sie immer höher ist als die Dehnungsfähigkeit der elastischen Fäden (A1) mit der höchsten Dehnungsfähigkeit.
  6. Textilgewebe mit kontrollierter Elastizität zur Herstellung von Unterbekleidungs- Kleidungs-, Orthesen- oder Sitzelementen, nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es sich bei diesem Textil um ein Gewebe, ein Gestrick oder ein Geflecht handelt.
  7. Träger für Unterbekleidung oder Sportbekleidung, bei dem ein Textilgewebe nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6 eingesetzt wird, und bei dem die maximale Dehnung dieses Trägers ungefähr 90 % bezogen auf seine ursprüngliche Länge beträgt, mit einer Rückstellkraft von 30 % Dehnung in der Nähe von 400 cN/cm.
  8. Short- oder Unterbekleidungsbund zur Verwendung im Sport, bei dem ein Textilgewebe nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6 eingesetzt wird, und bei dem die maximale Dehnung dieses Bundes ungefähr 120 à 150 %, bezogen auf die ursprüngliche Länge des Stoffes, aus dem der Bund besteht, beträgt, mit einer Rückstellkraft von 30 % Dehnung zwischen 200 und 300 cN/cm.
EP20154484.8A 2019-02-13 2020-01-30 Textilgewebe mit kontollierter elastizität zur herstellung von bekleidungs-, unterbekleidungs-, orthesen- und sitzelementen Active EP3696305B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1901442A FR3092591B1 (fr) 2019-02-13 2019-02-13 Textile à élasticité contrôlée pour la réalisation d’éléments de vêtements, de sous-vêtements, d’orthèses et d’éléments de sièges

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3696305A1 EP3696305A1 (de) 2020-08-19
EP3696305B1 true EP3696305B1 (de) 2022-03-09

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EP20154484.8A Active EP3696305B1 (de) 2019-02-13 2020-01-30 Textilgewebe mit kontollierter elastizität zur herstellung von bekleidungs-, unterbekleidungs-, orthesen- und sitzelementen

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US20200255989A1 (de)
EP (1) EP3696305B1 (de)
ES (1) ES2908913T3 (de)
FR (1) FR3092591B1 (de)

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US6276177B1 (en) * 1999-09-03 2001-08-21 Liberty Fabrics Knitted elastomeric fabric
US7555922B1 (en) * 2005-12-28 2009-07-07 EFA Holdings, LLC Elastic fabric
EP1837064A1 (de) * 2006-03-23 2007-09-26 Sefar AG Gewebe
US20160281275A1 (en) * 2015-03-26 2016-09-29 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Elastic fabric and process of preparation

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US20200255989A1 (en) 2020-08-13
FR3092591A1 (fr) 2020-08-14
ES2908913T3 (es) 2022-05-04
FR3092591B1 (fr) 2021-01-22
EP3696305A1 (de) 2020-08-19

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