EP3600226A1 - Dyed particles with a high pigment content - Google Patents

Dyed particles with a high pigment content

Info

Publication number
EP3600226A1
EP3600226A1 EP18714775.6A EP18714775A EP3600226A1 EP 3600226 A1 EP3600226 A1 EP 3600226A1 EP 18714775 A EP18714775 A EP 18714775A EP 3600226 A1 EP3600226 A1 EP 3600226A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
pigment
particles
particle
weight
phase
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP18714775.6A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Julie CANI
Cassia MICHEL
Morgane FOREST
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Capsum SAS
Original Assignee
Capsum SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Capsum SAS filed Critical Capsum SAS
Publication of EP3600226A1 publication Critical patent/EP3600226A1/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/11Encapsulated compositions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/20Halogens; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55Phosphorus compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62Coated
    • A61K2800/621Coated by inorganic compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61Surface treated
    • A61K2800/62Coated
    • A61K2800/622Coated by organic compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/651The particulate/core comprising inorganic material
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/65Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
    • A61K2800/652The particulate/core comprising organic material

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to pigment-rich colored particles for incorporation into cosmetic compositions, particularly makeup compositions and process for their preparation.
  • cosmetic composition means any cosmetic formulation intended to be applied to the skin, the hair and / or the nails.
  • foundations are used to improve the features or mask skin imperfections. These foundations are generally available in the form of liquid, semi-liquid or cream suspensions, emulsions, gels, as well as pressed powders or anhydrous oils and wax compositions.
  • Some colored macroscopic particles comprising dyes (colored chemical substance soluble in the colored particle) have been described. However, their dye levels are very low. Few macroscopic colored particles comprising a pigment (powdery and insoluble chemical dye) are known, and their pigment contents are extremely low, and this makes them unsuitable for use as a make-up composition. In addition, these low levels of pigments are such that the corresponding cosmetic products have properties in terms of unsatisfactory coverage.
  • the pigments are indeed difficult to integrate in the macroscopic particles. Indeed, the processes for preparing macroscopic particles generally implement solutions. However, introducing pigments into these solutions generally makes them very viscous, and the usual methods of preparation are then very difficult to implement. In addition, in the rare cases where it is possible to formulate a colored macroscopic particle comprising a pigment, it is possible to observe a phenomenon of sedimentation of the pigment inside the colored macroscopic particle. However, colored macroscopic particles in which the pigment is distributed throughout the macroscopic colored particle (or in the entire phase which contains them when the macroscopic particle is multiphasic and the pigment is in a phase) are sought.
  • the present invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition comprising macroscopic particles and having properties satisfactory in terms of coverage.
  • the invention relates to a particle, in particular macroscopic, comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment (s), generally at least 5% by weight of pigment (s), in particular at least 10% by weight of pigment ( s), typically at least 13% by weight of pigment (s), based on the weight of said particle.
  • the particles of the invention may comprise up to 50% by weight of pigment (s). When several pigments are present, this mass proportion is the cumulative proportion of pigments. These proportions are expressed in relation to the weight of particles.
  • the particles according to the invention may in particular be called "colored particles” or “colored macroscopic particles”.
  • the particles according to the invention therefore comprise at least one pigment but are different from the pigments. Indeed, they comprise, in addition to pigments, other constituents, as explained in particular below. According to the invention, the pigments are one of the constituents of the particles of the invention but they are not the only constituents of said particles. The particles according to the invention are therefore different (or distinct) elements of pigment (s) as such (s).
  • the invention also relates to a series of particles as defined above.
  • the invention also relates to a composition comprising at least one particle as defined above or at least one series of particles as defined above.
  • the colored particles according to the invention have a substantially spherical shape.
  • the particles according to the invention are advantageously macroscopic, that is to say visible to the naked eye.
  • Their average diameters D are generally from 0.1 mm to 10 mm, in particular from 0.1 to 7 mm, preferably from 0.2 mm to 5 mm, typically from 0.3 mm to 3 mm, in particular from 0 to , 4 mm to 2.5 mm, for example from 0.5 mm to 2 mm.
  • This diameter is advantageously measured on N colored particles using the "Image J" image processing software, on the basis of a snapshot of the colored particles taken in top view with a digital camera.
  • the diameter is measured in pixels, then reported in ⁇ , depending on the size of the container containing the colored particles.
  • the value of N is chosen to be greater than or equal to 30, so that this analysis reflects in a statistically significant manner the diameter distribution of the colored particles.
  • the diameter D i of each colored particle is measured, then the average diameter D is obtained by calculating the arithmetic mean of these values D i :
  • the standard deviation ⁇ reflects the distribution of diameters ; colored particles around the average diameter D.
  • This parameter reflects the distribution of the diameters of the colored particles as a function of the average diameter of these particles.
  • the coefficient of variation of the diameters of the colored particles is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%.
  • the coefficient of variation of the diameters of the colored particles is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%.
  • the colored particles can be monophasic or multiphasic.
  • they comprise a heart (which comprises at least one phase) and an envelope or membrane (which constitutes another phase) completely encapsulating the heart.
  • the core is preferably liquid at 25 ° C.
  • the heart can itself include one or more phases.
  • the at least one pigment is in the phase (one of the phases) forming the core.
  • the envelope completely encapsulating the core is typically based on at least one gelled polyelectrolyte and / or at least one polymer, preferably heat-sensitive, for example agar-agar.
  • Each phase of the colored particles may be oily or aqueous.
  • a particle according to the invention is a solid (or monophasic) particle.
  • these particles there may be mentioned particles based on at least one gelled polyelectrolyte and / or at least one polymer, preferably heat-sensitive, for example agar-agar.
  • agar beads and particles formed of a single phase corresponding to the aforementioned gelled polyelectrolyte are examples of the particles.
  • a particle according to the invention is a heart / shell particle (or core / shell), also designated by the term "capsule”.
  • a particle according to the invention is a capsule which comprises a liquid core or at least partially gelled or at least partly thixotropic and an envelope, preferably gelled, totally encapsulating said liquid heart, said liquid heart being monophasic, and in particular based on a predominantly aqueous phase or on the contrary a predominantly oily phase.
  • the casing is based on at least one gelled polyelectrolyte and / or at least one polymer, preferably heat-sensitive, for example agar-agar.
  • Such a type of particle then corresponds to a simple capsule comprising two distinct phases, an internal liquid phase or at least partially gelled or at least partly thixotropic and an outer phase in the solid or gelled state surrounding the inner phase.
  • a particle according to the invention is a capsule which comprises a liquid core or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic and an envelope, preferably gelled, totally encapsulating said heart, said heart having a intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the envelope, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an inner phase disposed in the intermediate drop.
  • the casing is based on at least one gelled polyelectrolyte and / or at least one polymer, preferably heat-sensitive, for example agar-agar.
  • the ratio of the volume of the core to the volume of the gelled envelope is greater than 2, advantageously less than 50, and preferably is between 5 and 10.
  • the intermediate phase is for example made based on an aqueous solution. or oily. When the intermediate phase is aqueous, the internal phase is oily, and conversely when the intermediate phase is oily, the internal phase is aqueous.
  • Such a type of particle then corresponds to a complex capsule signifying that the liquid core, viscous or thixotropic, comprises a single intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the envelope, and at least one of preferably a single internal drop of an inner phase disposed in the intermediate drop.
  • the core comprises a continuous intermediate phase within which a plurality of internal phase drops (s) are located.
  • a particle according to the invention comprises a liquid heart or at least partially gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a shell, preferably gelled, completely encapsulating said heart, said heart having an intermediate drop of a oily phase, the oily phase being placed in contact with the shell, and at least one internal drop of an aqueous phase disposed in the intermediate drop.
  • a particle according to the invention comprises a liquid core or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic and an envelope, preferably gelled, completely encapsulating said heart, said heart having an intermediate drop of an aqueous phase, the aqueous phase being placed in contact with the envelope, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an oily phase disposed in the intermediate drop.
  • the intermediate phase further comprises at least one gelling agent, especially as defined below.
  • the gelling agent contributes to improving the suspension of the internal drop (s) disposed in the intermediate drop of the particles of the invention according to this embodiment.
  • the gelling agent makes it possible to prevent / avoid the phenomena of creaming or sedimentation of the internal drop (s) arranged in the intermediate drop of the particles of the invention according to this method. embodiment.
  • the colored particles comprise at least one pigment, preferably several pigments.
  • the use of several pigments makes it possible to shade the color of the colored particles obtained as desired.
  • pigment is meant a coloring chemical substance insoluble in the colored particle (or the phase of the colored particle in which the pigment is present).
  • insoluble is meant that the solubility at 20 ° C of the pigment in the colored particle (or the phase of the colored particle in which the pigment is present) is less than 1 g / L, in particular less than 0.1 g / L, preferably less than 0.001 g / L.
  • Each pigment may independently be an organic, inorganic or hybrid organic-inorganic pigment. These are typically inorganic pigments.
  • pigments mention may especially be made of titanium dioxide, zinc dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chromium and ferric blue, and their mixtures.
  • the preferred inorganic pigments are iron oxides, especially red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigment is preferably an iron oxide, especially red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide and mixtures thereof.
  • Each pigment of the colored particles may be an untreated pigment or a treated pigment.
  • pigment treated means a pigment which has been treated with an additive improving its dispersibility in an oily or aqueous composition, in particular one of the additives defined below.
  • untreated pigment or “pigment not treated” is meant a pigment which has not been treated with such an additive.
  • the phase comprising the pigment (s) is an aqueous phase. According to one embodiment, the phase comprising the pigment (s) is a greasy or oily substance.
  • phase comprising pigments is a fatty or oily phase
  • said phase also comprises hydrostearic acid, preferably in a content of between 0.5% and 10%, in particular between 3% and 6%. , by weight relative to the total weight of the phase under consideration.
  • hydrostearic acid preferably in a content of between 0.5% and 10%, in particular between 3% and 6%. , by weight relative to the total weight of the phase under consideration.
  • This particular compound is advantageous in that it makes it possible to reduce the viscosity of a powdered / oil mill (60:40), a fortiori of a phase highly loaded with pigments, and thus to make it more fluid and more easily processable, especially at the level of fluidic devices as described below.
  • the colored particles are generally formed in whole or in part from at least one polymer, in particular at least one polysaccharide, such as an alginate, a gelatin, a pectin, a cellulose or a cellulose derivative, such as carboxymethylcellulose, agar-agar.
  • the polysaccharide is a polyelectrolyte, a thermosensitive polysaccharide, and their mixture.
  • the colored particles may comprise at least one gelling agent, in particular a heat-sensitive agent.
  • This gelling agent makes it possible in particular to adapt the viscosity and / or to reduce or even prevent the sedimentation of the pigment (s), especially when present in a liquid phase at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the term "gelling agent” is understood to mean an agent which makes it possible, at ambient temperature at atmospheric pressure, to increase the viscosity of the phase (s) containing it (neat) with respect to the same phase (s) without (e) said gelling agent, and in particular to reach a final viscosity of the phase (s) greater than 20 000 mPa.s, preferably greater than 50 000 mPa. s, better in excess of 100,000 mPa.s, and most preferably greater than 200,000 mPa.s.
  • the viscosity of the phase (s) forming the colored particles in the presence of said gelling agent is between 20,000 and 100,000,000 mPa.s, preferably between 50,000 and 1,000,000 mPa.s, and better still between 100,000. at 500,000 mPa.s at 25 ° C.
  • agent (s) gelling (s) takes place especially with regard to the nature of the phase and is different from the polysaccharide forming all or part of the colored particles according to the invention.
  • the gelling agent is hydrophilic when present in an aqueous phase, and the gelling agent is lipophilic when present in an oily phase.
  • hydrophilic gelling agent in the sense of the present invention, a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the colored particles.
  • the gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from semi-synthetic polymeric gelling agents, synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or natural polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and pyrogenic silicas, and mixtures thereof. These hydrophilic gelling agents may be cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic.
  • lipophilic gelling agent means a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the colored particles.
  • the gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible.
  • the lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents; organopolysiloxane elastomers; semi-crystalline polymers; polyacrylates; sugar / polysaccharide esters, in particular dextrin esters, inulin esters, glycerol esters, in particular dextrin esters; hydrogen-bonded polymers; hydrocarbon block copolymers and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents may be chosen from those described in FR 3,025,096 or FR 3,025,103.
  • the colored particles may further comprise a blooming filler.
  • a bloomer load is likely to modify and / or hide the wrinkles by its intrinsic physical properties. These fillers can in particular modify the wrinkles by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect.
  • porous silica microparticles for example Myochi's Silica Beads® SB 150 and SB 700 of medium size of 5 m and SUNSPHERES® H series of Asahi Glass, such as H33, H51 of size of 3.5 and 5, respectively; ⁇ and Sensibead Si 175 and Sensibead Si 320 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies respectively of sizes 7 ⁇ and 5 ⁇ ;
  • silicone resins such as NLK 500®, NLK 506® and NLK 510® from Takemoto Oil and Fat, in particular described in EP 1 579 849; silicone resin powders such as, for example, SILICON Resin Tospearl® 145 A of GE silicone with a mean size of 4.5 ⁇ ;
  • acrylic copolymers in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, for instance PMMA Jurimer MBI® particles of Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 ⁇ , the hollow spheres of PMMA sold under the name COVABEAD® LH 85 by the Sensient Cosmetic Technologies company and expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel®;
  • wax powders such as paraffin wax microloase® 14S particles of micropowders of average size of 7 ⁇ ;
  • polyethylene powders in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, for example the FLOBEADS® EA 209 E from Sumimoto with an average size of 10 ⁇ ;
  • crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100®, KSP 101®, KSP 102®, KSP 103®, KSP 104® and KSP 105® by the company Shin Etsu. talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders, for example Coverleaf AR 80® from Catalyst &Chemical;
  • talc talc
  • mica kaolin
  • lauryl glycine starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydrocarbon carbonate, magnesium, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics;
  • synthetic or natural hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers mineral or organic, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted especially from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742;
  • spherical elastomeric cross-linked silicones such as Trefil E-505C® or E-506 C® from Dow Corning; abrasive fillers which, by a mechanical effect, provide a smoothing of the cutaneous microrelief, such as abrasive silica, for example Abrasif SP® from Semanez or walnut or shell powders (apricot, walnut, for example from Cosmetochem).
  • abrasive silica for example Abrasif SP® from Semanez or walnut or shell powders (apricot, walnut, for example from Cosmetochem).
  • the fillers having an effect on the signs of aging are chosen in particular from porous silica microparticles, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, polyethylene powders and organopolysiloxane powders. crosslinked elastomers coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate , cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics, silk fibers, cotton fibers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the colored particles may further comprise a "soft focus” charge.
  • soft focus we mean a load which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect.
  • the "soft-focus" charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns.
  • These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical.
  • the "soft-focus” fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powders, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
  • silica and silicate powders in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powders, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
  • talc with a mean size of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc of average size in number of 1.8 micron and in particular that sold under the trade name Talc P3® by the company Nippon Talc , Nylon® 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos® by the company Atochem, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those sold by the company Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphere, for example reference H-53® by Asahi Glass, silica micro-beads such as those sold under the name SB- 700® or SB-150® by Miyoshi, Sensibead Si 175 and Sensibead Si 320 silica balls from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, and Senselier's PMMA Covabead Velvet
  • the concentration of these fillers having an effect on the signs of aging in the colored particles may be between 0.1% and 60%, or even between 0.5% and 40%, in particular between 1% and 20%, by weight. relative to the total weight of the colored particles.
  • a colored particle according to the invention further comprises at least one coloring agent different from the above-mentioned pigment (s).
  • the colored particles may therefore also comprise a dye and / or a mother-of-pearl, for example a 2375 Gold Covapearl Star nacre by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies or Covapearl Antique Silver 239 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.
  • a dye or a mother-of-pearl of a different color from that of the pigment used will be chosen.
  • dye is meant a coloring chemical substance soluble in the colored particle (or the phase of the colored particle in which the dye is present).
  • soluble is meant that the solubility at 20 ° C of the dye in the colored particle is greater than 2 g / l, especially greater than 5 g / l, preferably greater than 10 g / l.
  • the phase comprising the pigment (s) is different from that comprising the nacre (s) or the dye (s).
  • the core comprises at least 3%, in particular at least 5%, by weight of pigments
  • the membrane comprises at least a coloring agent, in particular nacres, of a different color of the encapsulated pigments (and therefore of the core), preferably in a content such that the membrane (or envelope) prevents the contents of the capsule from being seen.
  • the core comprises at least 3%, in at least 5%, by weight of pigments, and, according to a first variant, the pigments are present in the inner phase (IF), the intermediate phase (MF), or both, and according to a second variant, the membrane comprises at least one coloring agent, in particular nacres, preferably of a different color of the encapsulated pigments (and therefore of the core), preferably in a content such that the membrane (or envelope) prevents the content of the capsule from being seen.
  • the particles according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional compound different from the abovementioned compounds.
  • a particle according to the invention in particular the core and / or the envelope of a capsule according to the invention, can thus additionally comprise, as additional compound, powders, flakes, particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase. , emulsifying and / or non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, especially as described in application EP 2 353 577, preservatives, humectants, stabilizers, chelators, emollients, modifying agents chosen from pH, osmotic force and / or refractive index modifiers etc .. or any usual cosmetic additive, and mixtures thereof.
  • a particle according to the invention in particular the core and / or the envelope of a capsule according to the invention, may furthermore comprise at least one active agent, in particular a biological or a cosmetic active agent, preferably chosen from hydrating agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidants, active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, dermodecontracting agents, antiperspirants, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, age, perfuming agents and their mixtures.
  • active agent in particular a biological or a cosmetic active agent, preferably chosen from hydrating agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidants, active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, dermodecontracting agents, antiperspirants, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, age, perfuming agents and their mixtures.
  • the invention also relates to a process for preparing a series of colored particles comprising a step c) of formulating at least one pigment in the form of a series of colored particles comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment.
  • the pigment used in step c) is an untreated and unmilled pigment (pigment used "as is").
  • the pigment used in step c) has been pre-treated in order to make it more easily dispersible during the formulation of the pigment.
  • This pretreatment consists in grinding the pigment and / or in pretreating it with an additive improving its dispersibility before formulating it in the form of a series of colored particles.
  • the preparation process then comprises the steps of:
  • step a) formulating the at least one pigment obtained in step a) or b) in the form of a series of colored particles comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment (s).
  • the invention is based in particular on the discovery that the use of a ground pigment and / or a pigment pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility:
  • pigment contributes to the preparation of colored particles having a content of very high pigment (s), comprising more than 3% by weight of pigment (s), generally more than 5% by weight of pigment (s), or even more than 7%, 5% by weight of pigment (s),
  • pigments when they are used, they all undergo the same treatment, that is to say they are all ground and / or they are all pretreated. It is possible, however, that some are crushed and untreated, and others treated and crushed or unmilled.
  • the at least one pigment of step a) is pretreated with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment.
  • the nature of the additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment depends on the hydrophilic or lipophilic nature of the phase (s) of the colored particle which will include (have) this treated pigment.
  • pretreated pigments When the process uses a plurality of pretreated pigments, these may be pretreated with additives that are identical or different from one another.
  • An additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment within an oily composition is chosen to prepare colored particles whose (s) phase (s) which will include (have) the pigment is oily.
  • the additive is for example chosen from hydrogenated lecithin, a silicone, a wax, an amino acid or a salt thereof and an amino acid ester or a salt thereof.
  • Hydrogenated lecithin comprises phosphate mono- and di-ester having fatty chains which promote dispersibility in the oily phase.
  • the silicone additive may be either obtained from a silicone precursor, such as an alkoxyalkylsilane such as triethoxycaprylsilane, or such as a trialkylsiloxysilicate such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, or be a silicone, such as dimethicone or a derivative thereof , for example bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone, or be obtained from a mixture of silicone and one of its precursors, for example a dimethicone and trimethylsiloxysilicate mixture.
  • a silicone precursor such as an alkoxyalkylsilane such as triethoxycaprylsilane, or such as a trialkylsiloxysilicate such as trimethylsiloxysilicate
  • a silicone precursor such as an alkoxyalkylsilane such as triethoxycaprylsilane, or such as a trialkylsiloxysilicate such as trimethylsiloxysilicate
  • a silicone precursor such as an alk
  • the silicone additive may be a hybrid treatment, particularly a mixture of isopropyl titanium triisostearate, bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone, PEG-2 soyamine and isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI).
  • the wax may for example be pink floral wax.
  • the preferred amino acid is cystine, and the preferred amino acid esters are sodium cocoyl glutamate, layroyl arginine or lauroyl lysine.
  • An additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment within an aqueous composition is selected to prepare colored particles whose phase (s) which will include (have) the pigment is aqueous.
  • This additive is in particular of formula (I) below:
  • n 1 or 2
  • M represents H or a cation
  • n 1 when M is H and m is the valence of the cation when M is a cation
  • - R represents: a group G chosen from a saccharide or a group or - [CH 2 -CH (CH 2 OH) -O] q -R 2 where:
  • q represents an integer of 1 to 1000
  • R 1 independently represents H or a methyl
  • R 2 represents H or an alkyl comprising from 1 to 3 carbon atoms
  • hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 500 carbon atoms substituted with one or more G groups, phosphate (of formula OPO 3 (M) 2 / m ) and / or hydroxyl (OH).
  • the group - [CH 2 -CHR O] q -R 2 with R 1 represents H is a polyethylene glycol (PEG).
  • the group - [CH 2 -CHR O] q -R 2 with R 1 represents a methyl corresponds to a polypropylene glycol (PPG).
  • q is an integer from 1 to 500, especially from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 60.
  • n 2 and the additive has the following formula ( ⁇ ):
  • a hydrocarbon chain comprises from 1 to 500 carbon atoms, especially from 1 to 50, typically from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon chains can be linear, branched or cyclic.
  • the preferred hydrocarbon chains are alkyl groups (preferably having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl and isopropyl groups) alkenyl (preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 6), aryl (preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms), arylalkyl (preferably 7 to 10 carbon atoms), or alkylaryl (preferably having 7 to 10 carbon atoms).
  • the vinyl group is the preferred alkenyl group.
  • the phenyl group is the preferred aryl.
  • a saccharide may be a mono- or polysaccharide.
  • Preferred saccharides are mono- or disaccharide, especially monosaccharides such as glucose, galactose or fructose.
  • M may especially be an inorganic cation, such as Ag 3+ , Al 3+ , Fe 3+ , Fe 2+ , Ag 2+ , Zn 2+ , Sn 2+ , Ca 2+ , Ba 2+ , Ag + , Na + or an organic cation, such as a diethanolammonium (DEA) (H 3 N + - (CH 2 ) 2 -OI-1) or a quaternary ammonium.
  • DEA diethanolammonium
  • R 2 represent H
  • R represents a group G of formula - [CH 2 -CH (CH 2 OH) -O] q -R 2 where q represents 1 and R 2 represents H),
  • M and m are as defined above and q 'and q "independently represent an integer from 0 to 1000, generally from 0 to 500, especially from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 60, such that sum of q 'and q "independently represent an integer from 1 to 1000,
  • R represents a group G of formula - [Ch CHR OJ q -Rg where q represents the sum and for the first units, R 1 is methyl and for the last 4 units R 1 is H and R 2 is H).
  • glycereth-26 phosphate of formula ( ⁇ ) below:
  • Phytic acid is the additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment in a preferred aqueous composition.
  • the method may comprise, before step a), a step aO) of mixing a pigment with an additive as defined above to obtain a pretreated pigment.
  • a step aO of mixing a pigment with an additive as defined above to obtain a pretreated pigment.
  • the preparation method described in the application WO 2012/120098 can be used.
  • the method may comprise a step b) of grinding the pretreated pigment or be free from it.
  • This grinding makes it possible to limit or even eliminate the pretreated pigment aggregates, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase (s) of the colored particles and / or contributes to reducing the sedimentation of the pigment in the (es) phase (s) of the colored particles which contain it.
  • This grinding step may be carried out in the presence of a binder, or in the absence of binder (dry grinding).
  • the binder is, for example, glycerine, propanediol, a hydrogenated starch hydrolyzate, octyldodecanol, castor oil, a mineral oil, isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone and cyclomethicone, isododecane.
  • the binder is chosen from propanediol, glycerin and a hydrogenated starch hydrolyzate.
  • the binder is chosen from glycerol, octyldodecanol, castor oil, a mineral oil, isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone and cyclomethicone, isododecane.
  • the mill is then typically selected from three-roll mills, ball mills and plate mills.
  • the mill may be a pin mill, a jet micronizer, an impact mill, a hammer mill, a knife mill, a ball mill , a vibrating mill or a cryogenic mill.
  • the at least one pigment of step a) is not pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility, and the process then comprises a step b) of grinding the pigment.
  • This grinding makes it possible to limit or even eliminate the pretreated pigment aggregates, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase (s). colored particles and / or helps to reduce the sedimentation of the pigment in the phase (s) of the colored particles which contain it.
  • the pigment is that obtained in step a) or b).
  • a liquid comprising a pigment ground and / or pretreated as defined above indeed has a lower viscosity than a liquid comprising uncrushed and unprocessed pigment.
  • a liquid comprising a ground and / or pretreated pigment can therefore be formulated much more easily in the form of a series of colored particles.
  • the phase that contains the pigment will be less prone to sedimentation of the pigment.
  • the colored particles formulated in step c) comprise all or part of at least one polysaccharide, and in particular at least one partially or totally gelled polyelectrolyte.
  • the formulation of step c) implements a liquid solution that comprises both the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b), and
  • step c) comprises the following substeps:
  • step C1 b) introducing dropwise the mixture obtained in step C1 a) in a solution containing a reagent suitable for reacting with the polyelectrolyte to pass at least partially from a liquid state to a gelled state;
  • step c) recovery of the colored particles formed. or else step c) comprises the following substeps:
  • step C2b) introducing the mixture obtained in step C2a) dropwise into a liquid solution containing a liquid polyelectrolyte suitable for gelling, whereby the polyelectrolyte (in the immediate vicinity of the drops of mixture obtained in step C2a) goes to less partially from a liquid state to a gelled state;
  • the polyelectrolyte is preferably a polyelectrolyte reactive with multivalent ions, especially a polysaccharide reactive with multivalent ions such as an alkali alginate, a gelatin, a pectin, a cellulose or a cellulose derivative, such as carboxymethylcellulose, or of agar.
  • a polysaccharide reactive with multivalent ions such as an alkali alginate, a gelatin, a pectin, a cellulose or a cellulose derivative, such as carboxymethylcellulose, or of agar.
  • it is an alkaline alginate, such as sodium alginate.
  • the reagent capable of reacting with the polyelectrolyte to change it from a liquid state to a gelled state is typically a solution comprising multivalent ions such as alkaline earth metal ions selected for example from calcium ions, ions barium, magnesium ions.
  • the pigment used in step a) is preferably an unprocessed pigment or a pigment pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility within a composition oily.
  • the pigment used in step a) is preferably an unprocessed pigment or a pigment pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility within a composition aqueous.
  • the mixture obtained in stage C1 a) or C1 b) preferably comprises more than 10% by weight, especially more than 15% by weight, for example between 20 and 50% by weight of pigment (s) (cumulative contents when there are several pigments).
  • pigment (s) cumulative contents when there are several pigments.
  • Such proportions are indeed adapted so that the mass proportion of pigment (s) colored particles obtained at the end of the process is greater than 3% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight.
  • the solution used in step C2a) may further comprise at least one thickening agent, for example a polysaccharide such as xanthan.
  • at least one thickening agent for example a polysaccharide such as xanthan.
  • step C1 b the drops are immersed in the solution containing a reagent suitable for reacting with the polyelectrolyte.
  • step C2b the drops are immersed in the polyelectrolyte solution.
  • Adaptation of the duration of step C1 b) or C2b) makes it possible to obtain partially or totally gelled particles.
  • the colored particles formed are "solid particles", also called monophasic particles.
  • the polyelectrolyte passes only partially from a liquid state to a gelled state, the colored particles comprise a gelled envelope completely encapsulating the liquid core.
  • the formulation of step c) implements two distinct liquid solutions, one which comprises the pigment, preferably obtained in step a) or b), and the other which comprises a polyelectrolyte.
  • the colored particles comprise a core and a casing completely encapsulating the heart.
  • the at least one pigment is in the phase (one of the phases) forming the core.
  • the pigment (s) do not migrate into the envelope, which allows it to not disintegrate out of the particles.
  • the colored particles may comprise a liquid or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic heart containing the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b), and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating the heart.
  • This liquid heart or at least partly gelled or at least partially thixotropic may be based on a predominantly oily phase.
  • a pretreated pigment has been used in the process, it is a pretreated pigment with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment within an oily composition.
  • This heart may be based on a predominantly aqueous phase.
  • a pretreated pigment has been used in the process, it is a pretreated pigment with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment in an aqueous composition.
  • step c) typically comprises the following substeps:
  • C3a) separate conveying in a double jacket of a first liquid solution containing the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b), and a second liquid solution containing at least a liquid polyelectrolyte suitable for gelling;
  • the first liquid solution is an aqueous composition
  • the pigment (s) preferably obtained in step a) or b
  • optionally a binder especially as defined above, at least one preservative and at least one polymer, especially chosen from hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, carrageenan, gellan, a polysiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the first liquid solution preferably comprises more than 10% by weight, in particular more than 20% by weight, for example between 25 and 50% by weight of pigment (s) (cumulated content when there are several pigments).
  • pigment (s) cumulated content when there are several pigments.
  • Such proportions are indeed adapted so that the mass proportion of pigment (s) colored particles obtained at the end of the process is greater than 3% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight.
  • the surfactant is especially chosen from an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant or mixtures thereof.
  • it is chosen from an alkyl sulphate, an alkyl sulphonate, an alkyl aryl sulphonate, an alkaline alkyl phosphate, a dialkyl sulphosuccinate, an alkaline earth salt of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, an alkylpyridium halide salt or alkylammonium such as n-ethyldodecylammonium chloride or bromide, cetylammonium chloride or bromide, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated derivatives of fatty alcohols, fatty acids or alkylphenols, or from arylphenols, alkyl glucosides, polysorbates, cocamides or mixtures thereof.
  • it is sodium dodecyl sulf
  • the or each electrolyte and the reagent suitable for reacting with the polyelectrolyte are preferably as defined above.
  • the second liquid solution containing a liquid polyelectrolyte suitable for gelation may also contain a mother-of-pearl and / or a dye, preferably of a color different from that of the pigment of the first liquid solution.
  • step c) can be implemented by following the method described in WO 2010/063937.
  • the core of the colored particles may comprise an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the envelope, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase disposed in the intermediate droplet.
  • Step c) then typically comprises the following substeps:
  • each liquid body comprising at least one, preferably a single internal internal phase drop disposed in an intermediate phase intermediate drop, said intermediate drop being coated a peripheral film formed of first solution;
  • the inner phase and / or the intermediate phase contains the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b).
  • the internal phase is that which contains the pigment (s).
  • the intermediate phase is that which contains the pigment (s).
  • the polyelectrolyte, the surfactant and the reagent are preferably as defined above.
  • the first solution containing a clean liquid polyelectrolyte to be gelled for forming the gelled envelope may further comprise a mother-of-pearl (nacres) and / or at least one dye, preferably of a color different from that of the pigment contained in the phase. internal and / or intermediate phase.
  • the intermediate phase is an aqueous composition comprising, or even consisting of, the pigment (s), optionally a binder, especially as defined above, at least one preservative and at least one polymer, in particular chosen from hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, carrageenan, gellan, a polysiloxane, and mixtures thereof
  • the inner phase is a vegetable oil such as almond, apricot or jojoba oil.
  • the intermediate phase preferably comprises more than 10% by weight, in particular more than 20% by weight, for example between 25 and 50% by weight of pigment (contents cumulated when there are several pigments). Such proportions are indeed adapted so that the mass proportion of pigment colored particles obtained at the end of the process is greater than 3% by weight.
  • step c) can be implemented by following the method described in WO 2012/089820.
  • a solution comprising a ground and / or pretreated pigment as defined above has a lower viscosity than a solution comprising unmilled and unprocessed pigment.
  • the viscosity Generally, the viscosity:
  • the viscosity can be measured with a Brookfield Model Viscometer LVDV2T machine at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute.
  • viscosities can be adapted by using a gelling agent, especially as defined above.
  • a gelling agent especially as defined above. For example :
  • the method may comprise, after step c), a step d) rinsing the colored particles.
  • the process may comprise, after step c), a step e) of depolymerization.
  • This step e) of depolymerization is intended to remove the gelled envelope when comprising at least one gelled polyelectrolyte.
  • This step e) can be carried out by any depolymerization method known to those skilled in the art.
  • the depolymerization can be carried out by immersion in a depolymerization solution, such as, for example, a solution of sodium citrate concentrated at a mass content of at least 5%, typically of 10%.
  • tartrate ion, phytic acid or EDTA solutions any solution of so-called chelating species for divalent cations, or solutions of acrylic acid polymers such as carbomer, carbopol, polyacrylamide or polyacrylate type.
  • the intermediate phase (or envelope) is not altered by the depolymerization step e).
  • the method according to the invention does not include a step of drying the particles.
  • the invention also relates to a series of colored particles that can be obtained by the above process, said particles comprising at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 10% by weight, in particular at least 13% by weight of pigment (s).
  • the invention also relates to the use of at least one series of colored particles for introduction into a cosmetic composition.
  • the particles or series of particles according to the invention can in particular be used in the cosmetics field.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition comprising at least one series of colored particles.
  • compositions according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, at least one physiologically acceptable medium.
  • the invention therefore also relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising at least one particle as defined above or at least one series of particles as defined above, in association with an acceptable physiological medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, the nails, the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and preferably the skin.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.
  • the presence of a physiologically acceptable medium can contribute to improving the conservation and / or preserving the integrity over time of the colored particles according to the invention.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is in the form of an aqueous gel, the viscosity of which is adapted to ensure the suspension of the colored particles according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic compositions are used for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, especially the skin.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be skincare, sun protection, cleaning (makeup removal), hygiene or make-up products for the skin.
  • compositions are therefore intended to be applied especially to the skin, lips or hair.
  • the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition mentioned above, as a makeup, hygiene, cleaning and / or care product for keratinous substances, in particular the skin.
  • compositions of the invention are in the form of a foundation, a makeup remover, a facial and / or body and / or hair care, anti age, a sun protection, a oily skin care, a whitening care, a moisturizer, a BB cream, tinted cream or foundation, a facial and / or body cleanser, a shower gel or a shampoo.
  • a care composition according to the invention can be in particular a solar composition, a care cream, a serum or a deodorant.
  • compositions according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in the form of cream, balm, lotion, serum, gel, gel-cream or mist.
  • a composition according to the invention is a care and / or makeup composition for keratinous substances, in particular the skin, and is in particular a foundation composition.
  • composition according to the invention and in particular the particles according to the invention do not concern, and are therefore different from, "two-way cakes” or else cosmetic compositions in the form of powders, such as described in EP 1 036 555.
  • the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material, in particular of the skin, lips or hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin material at least one composition according to the invention. 'invention.
  • the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips or hair, comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one composition according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition preferably comprises at least 3% by weight of pigment (s), in particular at least 5%, for example at least 7.5% by weight of pigment (s).
  • the maximum mass proportion of pigment (s) in the composition is generally 50% or even 30%.
  • the coloration conferred by the colored particles may for example be measured by spectrocolorimetry and / or spectrophotocolorimetry.
  • the cosmetic composition may for example be mascara, a product for the complexion, such as a foundation, a liner ("eyeliner” in English), an eyeshadow or cheek, a product for the lips as a lipstick or a lip gloss ("lip-gloss” in English), possibly liquid soap, shampoo, conditioner, nail polish, preferably eye shadow, complexion products or lip products.
  • the cosmetic composition may be in the form of a lotion monophasic or biphasic, emulsion water in oil or oil in water, gel, stick or cream.
  • the makeup composition preferably has a coverage greater than or equal to 10, in particular greater than or equal to 15, even preferably greater than or equal to 40, preferably greater than or equal to about 45, in particular greater than or equal to about 50, especially greater than equal to about 60, more particularly greater than or equal to about 80, in particular ranging from 90 to 100, or even about 100. Coverage corresponds to the ability of the makeup composition to "mask the skin” / to "hide the imperfections ".
  • the coverage of the compositions is measured at a finite thickness of 50 ⁇ for liquid compositions at 25 ° C. to be applied to the lips, in particular liquid lipsticks, liquid lip glosses and liquid lip balms, and at a thickness of 150 ⁇ for eye shadows, liquid foundations, mascaras and other liquid make-up products not intended to be applied to the lips.
  • the composition is spread on matt black and matt white contrast cards, for example LENETA Form WPI for the matte black card and Leneta IA for the matte white card.
  • the application can be performed with an automatic spreader. The measurements are carried out on the compositions thus spread.
  • Reflectance spectra are acquired using a MINOLTA 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (diffuse measurement geometry and observation D65 / 10 0 , specular component excluded mode, small aperture (CREISS)) on the black and white backgrounds.
  • the spectra are expressed in colorimetric coordinates in the CIELab76 space within the meaning of the International Commission on Illumination according to Recommendation 15: 2004.
  • the contrast ratio, or coverage is calculated by averaging Y on a black background, divided by the average value of Y on a white background, multiplied by 100.
  • Various pigment dispersions (white, black, yellow and red pigments) in glycerine were prepared with compositions shown in Table 1.
  • the additive used to improve the dispersibility of the pigments in the aqueous phase is phytic acid.
  • a dispersion of white, black, yellow and red pigments treated with surface phytic acid in glycerin was prepared with a weight ratio of 1: 1 pigments / glycerin according to the compositions shown in Table 1.
  • the pigment dispersion obtained was smooth, shiny, fluid. Its viscosity at 25 ° C was 7.32 Pa.s at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4, for 30s, torque 12.2.
  • composition of the pigment dispersion is also that of Table 1.
  • the pigment dispersion obtained was smooth, shiny, fluid. Its viscosity at 25 ° C was 5.46 Pa.s at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4, for 30s, torque 2.9.
  • a dispersion of untreated white, black, yellow and red pigments in glycerine was prepared with a weight ratio of 1: 1 pigments / glycerin according to the compositions shown in Table 2.
  • composition of the pigment dispersion is also that of Table 2.
  • the viscosity of the dispersion obtained at 25 ° C. at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4 for 30 seconds was too great to be measured with the aforementioned device.
  • Viscosity of the dispersions and size distributions of the pigment particles are provided in Table 3 below.
  • the particle size was measured by laser diffraction using a HORIBA Model LA-960S granulometer.
  • White, yellow, black and red pigments pretreated with phytic acid were used to prepare color particles with high pigment content.
  • a dispersion of white, black, yellow and red pigments treated with surface phytic acid in glycerine was prepared with a weight ratio of 1: 1 pigments / glycerin according to the compositions shown in Table 1 of the present invention. example 1.
  • composition of the pigment dispersion is also that of said table
  • step b) The mill was then cleaned with the remaining 20 g of glycerin to obtain the glycerin-treated pigments.
  • the particle size measured by laser diffraction using a HORIBA Model LA-960S particle size analyzer was D10: 0.42 - D50: 1 .49 - D90: 0.68.
  • the pigment dispersion obtained was smooth, glossy, very viscous. Its viscosity at 25 ° C was 5.46 Pa.s at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4, for 30s, torque 13.3.
  • Colored particles were then formulated using a millifluidic process similar to that described in the application WO 2010/063937, especially from a solution comprising glycerin (used as a binder during grinding), the pretreated pigments. milled obtained above, preservatives and a hyaluronic acid gel. • Preparation of a hyaluronic acid gel
  • a hyaluronic acid gel having the composition specified in Table 4 was prepared.
  • Hyaluronic acid composition comprising the pigment dispersion. • Preparation of colored particles by implementing steps C3a) to
  • mixture A A mixture of 54% by weight of pigmented hyaluronic acid gel obtained and 46% by weight of unpigmented hyaluronic acid gel having the composition indicated in Table 4, was used as the first liquid solution in the process described in WO 2010/063937.
  • the method for preparing capsules is based on (i) a millifluidic process similar to that described in application WO 2010/063937 and thus (ii) on the implementation of the following three solutions:
  • a third solution representing a calcium bath dedicated to gel the second solution and thus allow the formation of the gelled envelope of the particles.
  • the particles may then be stored / stored in a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a suspending aqueous gel as described below.
  • the colored particles obtained included very large mass proportions of pigments (between 13 and 21% by mass of pigment), which makes them particularly suitable for being introduced into make-up compositions, and especially to make-up foundations. • Preparation of a makeup composition
  • compositions advantageously have a high content of pigment, which makes them suitable for makeup applications, and especially foundation.

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a particle containing at least 3 wt. % of pigment(s) in relation to the weight of said particle. The invention also relates to a series of particles, in which each particle contains at least 3 wt. % of pigment(s) in relation to the weight of said particle, to a method for producing said series of particles, and to the uses thereof in cosmetic compositions, particularly make-up for keratinous materials.

Description

PARTICULES COLORÉES À TENEUR ÉLEVÉE EN PIGMENT  COLORED PARTICLES WITH HIGH PIGMENT CONTENT
La présente invention concerne des particules colorées à teneur élevée en pigment, destinées à être incorporées dans des compositions cosmétiques, en particulier des compositions de maquillage et leur procédé de préparation. The present invention relates to pigment-rich colored particles for incorporation into cosmetic compositions, particularly makeup compositions and process for their preparation.
Au sens de la présente demande, par « composition cosmétique », on entend toute formulation cosmétique destinée à être appliquée sur la peau, sur les cheveux et/ou les ongles.  As used herein, "cosmetic composition" means any cosmetic formulation intended to be applied to the skin, the hair and / or the nails.
L'un des principaux objectifs en cosmétique est d'améliorer l'apparence extérieure de la peau, en particulier du visage. Généralement, les fonds de teint sont utilisés pour améliorer les caractéristiques ou masquer les imperfections de la peau. Ces fonds de teint sont généralement disponibles sous forme de suspensions liquides, semi-liquides ou crèmes, d'émulsions, de gels, ainsi que de poudres pressées ou d'huiles anhydres et de compositions de cire.  One of the main goals in cosmetics is to improve the external appearance of the skin, especially the face. Generally, foundations are used to improve the features or mask skin imperfections. These foundations are generally available in the form of liquid, semi-liquid or cream suspensions, emulsions, gels, as well as pressed powders or anhydrous oils and wax compositions.
Il existe un besoin de développer de nouvelles compositions cosmétiques qui offrent de nouvelles expériences sensorielles à l'utilisateur et/ou qui soient plus efficaces. Ces dernières années ont été développées des formulations sous forme de particules macroscopiques, notamment de type perles, creuses ou pleines, souples ou rigides. Ces particules macroscopiques confèrent un aspect visuel différenciant et très attractif, tout en protégeant les actifs encapsulés. Cela étant, les particules macroscopiques existantes ne sont généralement pas ou très peu colorées et sont utilisées en tant que produits de soin dont la coloration ou la capacité à colorer les matières kératiniques est/sont largement insuffisante(s).  There is a need to develop new cosmetic compositions that offer new sensory experiences to the user and / or that are more effective. In recent years formulations have been developed in the form of macroscopic particles, in particular of the bead-like, hollow or solid, flexible or rigid type. These macroscopic particles confer a visual differentiating and very attractive, while protecting the encapsulated assets. However, existing macroscopic particles are generally not or very slightly colored and are used as skincare products whose coloring or the ability to color keratinous materials is / are largely insufficient (s).
Quelques particules macroscopiques colorées comprenant des colorants (substance chimique colorante soluble dans la particule colorée) ont été décrites. Cela étant, leurs teneurs en colorant sont très faibles. Peu de particules macroscopiques colorées comprenant un pigment (substance chimique colorante pulvérulente et insoluble) sont connues, et leurs teneurs en pigment sont extrêmement faibles, et ce qui les rend peu adaptées pour une utilisation comme composition de maquillage. En outre, ces teneurs faibles en pigments sont telles que les produits cosmétiques correspondants possèdent des propriétés en termes de couvrance non satisfaisantes.  Some colored macroscopic particles comprising dyes (colored chemical substance soluble in the colored particle) have been described. However, their dye levels are very low. Few macroscopic colored particles comprising a pigment (powdery and insoluble chemical dye) are known, and their pigment contents are extremely low, and this makes them unsuitable for use as a make-up composition. In addition, these low levels of pigments are such that the corresponding cosmetic products have properties in terms of unsatisfactory coverage.
Du fait de leur nature pulvérulente et insoluble, les pigments sont en effet difficiles à intégrer dans les particules macroscopiques. En effet, les procédés de préparation des particules macroscopiques mettent généralement en œuvre des solutions. Or, introduire des pigments dans ces solutions les rend généralement très visqueuses, et les procédés usuels de préparation sont alors très difficiles à mettre en œuvre. De plus, dans les rares cas où l'on arrive à formuler une particule macroscopique colorée comprenant un pigment, on peut observer un phénomène de sédimentation du pigment à l'intérieur de la particule macroscopique colorée. Or, des particules macroscopiques colorées dans lesquelles le pigment est réparti dans toute la particule macroscopique colorée (ou dans toute la phase qui les contient lorsque la particule macroscopique est multiphasique et que le pigment est dans une phase) sont recherchées. Because of their pulverulent and insoluble nature, the pigments are indeed difficult to integrate in the macroscopic particles. Indeed, the processes for preparing macroscopic particles generally implement solutions. However, introducing pigments into these solutions generally makes them very viscous, and the usual methods of preparation are then very difficult to implement. In addition, in the rare cases where it is possible to formulate a colored macroscopic particle comprising a pigment, it is possible to observe a phenomenon of sedimentation of the pigment inside the colored macroscopic particle. However, colored macroscopic particles in which the pigment is distributed throughout the macroscopic colored particle (or in the entire phase which contains them when the macroscopic particle is multiphasic and the pigment is in a phase) are sought.
Le développement de particules macroscopiques à teneurs élevées en pigment et ne présentant pas les inconvénients ci-dessus pour des applications cosmétiques, en particulier maquillage, demeure donc un objectif constant.  The development of macroscopic particles with high levels of pigment and not having the above disadvantages for cosmetic applications, in particular make-up, remains a constant objective.
En particulier, la présente invention a pour but de fournir une composition cosmétique comprenant des particules macroscopiques et possédant des propriétés satisfaisantes en termes de couvrance.  In particular, the present invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition comprising macroscopic particles and having properties satisfactory in terms of coverage.
A cet effet, l'invention concerne une particule, notamment macroscopique, comprenant au moins 3% en poids de pigment(s), généralement au moins 5% en poids de pigment(s), notamment au moins 10% en poids de pigment(s), typiquement au moins 13% en poids de pigment(s), par rapport au poids de ladite particule. For this purpose, the invention relates to a particle, in particular macroscopic, comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment (s), generally at least 5% by weight of pigment (s), in particular at least 10% by weight of pigment ( s), typically at least 13% by weight of pigment (s), based on the weight of said particle.
Les particules de l'invention peuvent comprendre jusqu'à 50% en poids de pigment(s). Lorsque plusieurs pigments sont présents, cette proportion massique est la proportion cumulée de pigments. Ces proportions sont exprimées par rapport au poids de particules. Les particules selon l'invention peuvent notamment être nommées « particules colorées » ou « particules macroscopiques colorées ». Les particules selon l'invention comprennent donc au moins un pigment mais sont différentes des pigments. En effet, elles comprennent, en plus des pigments, d'autres constituants, comme notamment expliqué plus loin. Selon l'invention, les pigments sont un des constituants des particules de l'invention mais ils ne sont pas les uniques constituants desdites particules. Les particules selon l'invention sont donc des éléments différents (ou distincts) de pigment(s) en tant que tel(s).  The particles of the invention may comprise up to 50% by weight of pigment (s). When several pigments are present, this mass proportion is the cumulative proportion of pigments. These proportions are expressed in relation to the weight of particles. The particles according to the invention may in particular be called "colored particles" or "colored macroscopic particles". The particles according to the invention therefore comprise at least one pigment but are different from the pigments. Indeed, they comprise, in addition to pigments, other constituents, as explained in particular below. According to the invention, the pigments are one of the constituents of the particles of the invention but they are not the only constituents of said particles. The particles according to the invention are therefore different (or distinct) elements of pigment (s) as such (s).
L'invention concerne également une série de particules telles que définies ci- dessus. L'invention concerne également une composition comprenant au moins une particule telle que définie ci-dessus ou au moins une série de particules telles que définies ci-dessus. The invention also relates to a series of particles as defined above. The invention also relates to a composition comprising at least one particle as defined above or at least one series of particles as defined above.
Les particules colorées selon l'invention présentent une forme sensiblement sphérique.  The colored particles according to the invention have a substantially spherical shape.
Les particules selon l'invention sont avantageusement macroscopiques, c'est- à-dire visibles à l'œil nu.  The particles according to the invention are advantageously macroscopic, that is to say visible to the naked eye.
Leurs diamètres moyens D sont généralement compris de 0,1 mm à 10 mm, notamment de 0,1 à 7 mm, de préférence de 0,2 mm à 5 mm, typiquement de 0,3 mm à 3 mm, en particulier de 0,4 mm à 2,5 mm, par exemple de 0,5 mm à 2 mm. Ce diamètre est mesuré avantageusement sur N particules colorées à l'aide du logiciel de traitement d'image « Image J », sur la base d'un cliché des particules colorées pris en vue de dessus avec un appareil photo numérique. Typiquement, selon cette méthode, le diamètre est mesuré en pixel, puis rapporté en μηι, en fonction de la dimension du récipient contenant les particules colorées. De préférence, la valeur de N est choisie supérieure ou égale à 30, de sorte que cette analyse reflète de manière statistiquement significative la distribution de diamètres des particules colorées.  Their average diameters D are generally from 0.1 mm to 10 mm, in particular from 0.1 to 7 mm, preferably from 0.2 mm to 5 mm, typically from 0.3 mm to 3 mm, in particular from 0 to , 4 mm to 2.5 mm, for example from 0.5 mm to 2 mm. This diameter is advantageously measured on N colored particles using the "Image J" image processing software, on the basis of a snapshot of the colored particles taken in top view with a digital camera. Typically, according to this method, the diameter is measured in pixels, then reported in μηι, depending on the size of the container containing the colored particles. Preferably, the value of N is chosen to be greater than or equal to 30, so that this analysis reflects in a statistically significant manner the diameter distribution of the colored particles.
On mesure le diamètre Di de chaque particule colorée, puis on obtient le diamètre moyen D en calculant la moyenne arithmétique de ces valeurs Di : The diameter D i of each colored particle is measured, then the average diameter D is obtained by calculating the arithmetic mean of these values D i :
1 N 1 N
D = -Y D  D = -Y D
A partir de ces valeurs Dt , on peut également obtenir l'écart-type σ des diamètres des particules colorées : From these values D t , one can also obtain the standard deviation σ of the diameters of the colored particles:
L'écart-type σ reflète la répartition des diamètres ; des particules colorées autour du diamètre moyen D . The standard deviation σ reflects the distribution of diameters ; colored particles around the average diameter D.
On peut calculer le coefficient de variation Cv : The coefficient of variation C v can be calculated:
Ce paramètre reflète la répartition des diamètres des particules colorées en fonction du diamètre moyen de celles-ci. Selon un mode de réalisation, dans la série de particules selon l'invention, le coefficient de variation des diamètres des particules colorées est inférieur à 10%, de préférence inférieur à 5%. This parameter reflects the distribution of the diameters of the colored particles as a function of the average diameter of these particles. According to one embodiment, in the series of particles according to the invention, the coefficient of variation of the diameters of the colored particles is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%.
Selon un mode de réalisation, dans la composition susmentionnée, le coefficient de variation des diamètres des particules colorées est inférieur à 10%, de préférence inférieur à 5%.  According to one embodiment, in the aforementioned composition, the coefficient of variation of the diameters of the colored particles is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%.
Les particules colorées peuvent être monophasiques ou multiphasiques. Par exemple, elles comprennent un cœur (qui comprend au moins une phase) et une enveloppe ou membrane (qui constitue une autre phase) encapsulant totalement le cœur. Le cœur est de préférence liquide à 25°C. Le cœur peut lui-même comprendre une ou plusieurs phases. Généralement, le au moins un pigment est dans la phase (une des phases) formant le cœur. L'enveloppe encapsulant totalement le cœur est typiquement à base d'au moins un polyélectrolyte gélifié et/ou au moins un polymère, de préférence thermosensible, par exemple l'agar- agar. Chaque phase des particules colorées peut être huileuse ou aqueuse.  The colored particles can be monophasic or multiphasic. For example, they comprise a heart (which comprises at least one phase) and an envelope or membrane (which constitutes another phase) completely encapsulating the heart. The core is preferably liquid at 25 ° C. The heart can itself include one or more phases. Generally, the at least one pigment is in the phase (one of the phases) forming the core. The envelope completely encapsulating the core is typically based on at least one gelled polyelectrolyte and / or at least one polymer, preferably heat-sensitive, for example agar-agar. Each phase of the colored particles may be oily or aqueous.
Selon un mode de réalisation, une particule selon l'invention est une particule pleine (ou monophasique). Parmi ces particules, on peut notamment citer des particules à base d'au moins un polyélectrolyte gélifié et/ou au moins un polymère, de préférence thermosensible, par exemple l'agar-agar. De préférence, on peut citer des billes d'agar et des particules formées d'une phase unique correspondant au polyélectrolyte gélifié susmentionné.  According to one embodiment, a particle according to the invention is a solid (or monophasic) particle. Among these particles, there may be mentioned particles based on at least one gelled polyelectrolyte and / or at least one polymer, preferably heat-sensitive, for example agar-agar. Preferably, there can be mentioned agar beads and particles formed of a single phase corresponding to the aforementioned gelled polyelectrolyte.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation, une particule selon l'invention est une particule de type cœur/écorce (ou core/shell), également désignée par le terme « capsule ». According to another embodiment, a particle according to the invention is a heart / shell particle (or core / shell), also designated by the term "capsule".
Selon un mode de réalisation, une particule selon l'invention est une capsule qui comprend un cœur liquide ou au moins en partie gélifié ou au moins en partie thixotrope et une enveloppe, de préférence gélifiée, encapsulant totalement ledit cœur liquide, ledit cœur liquide étant monophasique, et en particulier à base d'une phase majoritairement aqueuse ou au contraire d'une phase majoritairement huileuse. Avantageusement, l'enveloppe est à base d'au moins un polyélectrolyte gélifié et/ou au moins un polymère, de préférence thermosensible, par exemple l'agar-agar.  According to one embodiment, a particle according to the invention is a capsule which comprises a liquid core or at least partially gelled or at least partly thixotropic and an envelope, preferably gelled, totally encapsulating said liquid heart, said liquid heart being monophasic, and in particular based on a predominantly aqueous phase or on the contrary a predominantly oily phase. Advantageously, the casing is based on at least one gelled polyelectrolyte and / or at least one polymer, preferably heat-sensitive, for example agar-agar.
Un tel type de particule correspond alors à une capsule simple comprenant deux phases distinctes, une phase interne liquide ou au moins en partie gélifié ou au moins en partie thixotrope et une phase externe à l'état solide ou gélifié entourant la phase interne. Such a type of particle then corresponds to a simple capsule comprising two distinct phases, an internal liquid phase or at least partially gelled or at least partly thixotropic and an outer phase in the solid or gelled state surrounding the inner phase.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, une particule selon l'invention est une capsule qui comprend un cœur liquide ou au moins en partie gélifié ou au moins en partie thixotrope et une enveloppe, de préférence gélifiée, encapsulant totalement ledit cœur, ledit cœur comportant une goutte intermédiaire d'une phase intermédiaire, la phase intermédiaire étant placée au contact de l'enveloppe, et au moins une, de préférence une unique, goutte interne d'une phase interne disposée dans la goutte intermédiaire. Là encore, avantageusement, l'enveloppe est à base d'au moins un polyélectrolyte gélifié et/ou au moins un polymère, de préférence thermosensible, par exemple l'agar-agar. Avantageusement, le rapport du volume du cœur au volume de l'enveloppe gélifiée est supérieur à 2, avantageusement est inférieur à 50, et de préférence est compris entre 5 et 10. La phase intermédiaire est par exemple réalisée à base d'une solution aqueuse ou huileuse. Lorsque la phase intermédiaire est aqueuse, la phase interne est huileuse, et à l'inverse lorsque la phase intermédiaire est huileuse, la phase interne est aqueuse.  According to a particular embodiment, a particle according to the invention is a capsule which comprises a liquid core or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic and an envelope, preferably gelled, totally encapsulating said heart, said heart having a intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the envelope, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an inner phase disposed in the intermediate drop. Again, advantageously, the casing is based on at least one gelled polyelectrolyte and / or at least one polymer, preferably heat-sensitive, for example agar-agar. Advantageously, the ratio of the volume of the core to the volume of the gelled envelope is greater than 2, advantageously less than 50, and preferably is between 5 and 10. The intermediate phase is for example made based on an aqueous solution. or oily. When the intermediate phase is aqueous, the internal phase is oily, and conversely when the intermediate phase is oily, the internal phase is aqueous.
Un tel type de particule correspond alors à une capsule complexe signifiant que le cœur liquide, visqueux ou thixotrope, comporte une unique goutte intermédiaire d'une phase intermédiaire, la phase intermédiaire étant placée au contact de l'enveloppe, et au moins une, de préférence une unique, goutte interne d'une phase interne disposée dans la goutte intermédiaire.  Such a type of particle then corresponds to a complex capsule signifying that the liquid core, viscous or thixotropic, comprises a single intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the envelope, and at least one of preferably a single internal drop of an inner phase disposed in the intermediate drop.
Selon une variante, le cœur comprend une phase intermédiaire continue au sein de laquelle se trouve une pluralité de gouttes de phase(s) interne(s).  According to one variant, the core comprises a continuous intermediate phase within which a plurality of internal phase drops (s) are located.
Selon un mode de réalisation, une particule selon l'invention comprend un cœur liquide ou au moins en partie gélifié ou au moins en partie thixotrope et une enveloppe, de préférence gélifiée, encapsulant totalement ledit cœur, ledit cœur comportant une goutte intermédiaire d'une phase huileuse, la phase huileuse étant placée au contact de l'enveloppe, et au moins une goutte interne d'une phase aqueuse disposée dans la goutte intermédiaire. According to one embodiment, a particle according to the invention comprises a liquid heart or at least partially gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a shell, preferably gelled, completely encapsulating said heart, said heart having an intermediate drop of a oily phase, the oily phase being placed in contact with the shell, and at least one internal drop of an aqueous phase disposed in the intermediate drop.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation, une particule selon l'invention comprend un cœur liquide ou au moins en partie gélifié ou au moins en partie thixotrope et une enveloppe, de préférence gélifiée, encapsulant totalement ledit cœur, ledit cœur comportant une goutte intermédiaire d'une phase aqueuse, la phase aqueuse étant placée au contact de l'enveloppe, et au moins une, de préférence une unique, goutte interne d'une phase huileuse disposée dans la goutte intermédiaire. Avantageusement, la phase intermédiaire comprend en outre au moins un agent gélifiant, notamment tel que défini ci-dessous. L'agent gélifiant contribue notamment à améliorer la suspension de la/les goutte(s) interne(s) disposée(s) dans la goutte intermédiaire des particules de l'invention selon ce mode de réalisation. En d'autres termes, l'agent gélifiant permet de prévenir/éviter les phénomènes de crémage ou de sédimentation de la/les goutte(s) interne(s) disposée(s) dans la goutte intermédiaire des particules de l'invention selon ce mode de réalisation. According to another embodiment, a particle according to the invention comprises a liquid core or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic and an envelope, preferably gelled, completely encapsulating said heart, said heart having an intermediate drop of an aqueous phase, the aqueous phase being placed in contact with the envelope, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an oily phase disposed in the intermediate drop. Advantageously, the intermediate phase further comprises at least one gelling agent, especially as defined below. In particular, the gelling agent contributes to improving the suspension of the internal drop (s) disposed in the intermediate drop of the particles of the invention according to this embodiment. In other words, the gelling agent makes it possible to prevent / avoid the phenomena of creaming or sedimentation of the internal drop (s) arranged in the intermediate drop of the particles of the invention according to this method. embodiment.
Les particules colorées comprennent au moins un pigment, de préférence plusieurs pigments. L'utilisation de plusieurs pigments permet de nuancer la couleur des particules colorées obtenues comme désiré.  The colored particles comprise at least one pigment, preferably several pigments. The use of several pigments makes it possible to shade the color of the colored particles obtained as desired.
Par « pigment », on entend une substance chimique colorante insoluble dans la particule colorée (ou la phase de la particule colorée dans laquelle le pigment est présent). Par « insoluble », on entend que la solubilité à 20°C du pigment dans la particule colorée (ou la phase de la particule colorée dans laquelle le pigment est présent) est inférieure 1 g/L, notamment inférieur à 0,1 g/L, de préférence inférieure à 0,001 g/L.  By "pigment" is meant a coloring chemical substance insoluble in the colored particle (or the phase of the colored particle in which the pigment is present). By "insoluble" is meant that the solubility at 20 ° C of the pigment in the colored particle (or the phase of the colored particle in which the pigment is present) is less than 1 g / L, in particular less than 0.1 g / L, preferably less than 0.001 g / L.
Chaque pigment peut indépendamment être un pigment organique, inorganique ou de nature hybride organique-inorganique. Il s'agit typiquement de pigments inorganiques.  Each pigment may independently be an organic, inorganic or hybrid organic-inorganic pigment. These are typically inorganic pigments.
A titre de pigments, on peut notamment citer le dioxyde de titane, le dioxyde de zinc, les oxydes de zirconium ou de cérium, ainsi que les oxydes de fer ou de chrome, le violet de manganèse, le bleu outremer, l'hydrate de chrome et le bleu ferrique, et leurs mélanges. Les pigments minéraux préférés sont les oxydes de fer, notamment l'oxyde de fer rouge, l'oxyde de fer jaune, l'oxyde de fer brun, l'oxyde de fer noir, le dioxyde de titane et leurs mélanges.  As pigments, mention may especially be made of titanium dioxide, zinc dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chromium and ferric blue, and their mixtures. The preferred inorganic pigments are iron oxides, especially red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.
Le pigment est de préférence un oxyde de fer, notamment l'oxyde de fer rouge, l'oxyde de fer jaune, l'oxyde de fer brun, l'oxyde de fer noir et leurs mélanges.  The pigment is preferably an iron oxide, especially red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide and mixtures thereof.
Chaque pigment des particules colorées peut être un pigment non traité ou un pigment traité. Au sens de la demande, par « pigment traité », on entend un pigment ayant été traité par un additif améliorant sa dispersibilité au sein d'une composition huileuse ou aqueuse, notamment un des additifs définis ci-dessous. Par « pigment non traité » ou « pigment pas traité », on entend un pigment n'ayant pas été traité par un tel additif.  Each pigment of the colored particles may be an untreated pigment or a treated pigment. As used herein, the term "pigment treated" means a pigment which has been treated with an additive improving its dispersibility in an oily or aqueous composition, in particular one of the additives defined below. By "untreated pigment" or "pigment not treated" is meant a pigment which has not been treated with such an additive.
Selon un mode de réalisation, la phase comprenant le(s) pigment(s) est une phase aqueuse. Selon un mode de réalisation, la phase comprenant le(s) pigment(s) est une grasse ou huileuse. According to one embodiment, the phase comprising the pigment (s) is an aqueous phase. According to one embodiment, the phase comprising the pigment (s) is a greasy or oily substance.
De préférence, lorsque la phase comprenant des pigments est une phase grasse ou huileuse, ladite phase comprend en outre de l'acide hydrostéarique, de préférence en une teneur comprise entre 0,5% et 10%, en particulier entre 3% et 6%, en poids par rapport au poids total de la phase considérée. La présence de ce composé particulier est avantageuse en ce qu'il permet de diminuer la viscosité d'un broyât pigments/huile (60:40), a fortiori d'une phase hautement chargée en pigments, et donc le rendre fluide et plus facilement processable, notamment au niveau de dispositifs fluidiques tels que décrits ci-après.  Preferably, when the phase comprising pigments is a fatty or oily phase, said phase also comprises hydrostearic acid, preferably in a content of between 0.5% and 10%, in particular between 3% and 6%. , by weight relative to the total weight of the phase under consideration. The presence of this particular compound is advantageous in that it makes it possible to reduce the viscosity of a powdered / oil mill (60:40), a fortiori of a phase highly loaded with pigments, and thus to make it more fluid and more easily processable, especially at the level of fluidic devices as described below.
Les particules colorées sont généralement formées en tout ou partie à partir d'au moins un polymère, en particulier d'au moins un polysaccharide, tel qu'un alginate, une géllane, une pectine, une cellulose ou un dérivé de cellulose, comme la carboxyméthylcellulose, de l'agar-agar. Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, le polysaccharide est un polyélectrolyte, un polysaccharide thermosensible, et leur mélange.  The colored particles are generally formed in whole or in part from at least one polymer, in particular at least one polysaccharide, such as an alginate, a gelatin, a pectin, a cellulose or a cellulose derivative, such as carboxymethylcellulose, agar-agar. According to a particular embodiment, the polysaccharide is a polyelectrolyte, a thermosensitive polysaccharide, and their mixture.
Les particules colorées peuvent comprendre au moins un agent gélifiant, notamment thermosensible. Cet agent gélifiant permet notamment d'adapter la viscosité et/ou de diminuer, voire de prévenir, la sédimentation du/des pigment(s), notamment lorsque présent(s) dans une phase liquide à température ambiante et pression atmosphérique.  The colored particles may comprise at least one gelling agent, in particular a heat-sensitive agent. This gelling agent makes it possible in particular to adapt the viscosity and / or to reduce or even prevent the sedimentation of the pigment (s), especially when present in a liquid phase at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
Dans le cadre de l'invention, on entend par « agent gélifiant », un agent permettant, à température ambiante à pression atmosphérique, d'augmenter la viscosité de la/les phases qui le contient(nnent) par rapport à la(aux) même(s) phase(s) dépourvu(es) dudit agent gélifiant, et en particulier d'atteindre une viscosité finale de la(des) phase(s) supérieure à 20 000 mPa.s, de préférence supérieure à 50 000 mPa.s, mieux supérieure à 100 000 mPa.s, et tout particulièrement supérieure à 200 000 mPa.s.  In the context of the invention, the term "gelling agent" is understood to mean an agent which makes it possible, at ambient temperature at atmospheric pressure, to increase the viscosity of the phase (s) containing it (neat) with respect to the same phase (s) without (e) said gelling agent, and in particular to reach a final viscosity of the phase (s) greater than 20 000 mPa.s, preferably greater than 50 000 mPa. s, better in excess of 100,000 mPa.s, and most preferably greater than 200,000 mPa.s.
De préférence, la viscosité de la/des phases formant les particules colorées en présence dudit agent gélifiant est comprise entre 20 000 et 100 000 000 mPa.s, de préférence entre 50 000 et 1 000 000 mPa.s, et mieux entre 100 000 à 500 000 mPa.s, à 25°C.  Preferably, the viscosity of the phase (s) forming the colored particles in the presence of said gelling agent is between 20,000 and 100,000,000 mPa.s, preferably between 50,000 and 1,000,000 mPa.s, and better still between 100,000. at 500,000 mPa.s at 25 ° C.
Le choix en agent(s) gélifiant(s) s'effectue notamment au regard de la nature de la phase considérée et est différent du polysaccharide formant en tout ou partie les particules colorées selon l'invention. Ainsi, pour des raisons de compatibilités :  The choice of agent (s) gelling (s) takes place especially with regard to the nature of the phase and is different from the polysaccharide forming all or part of the colored particles according to the invention. Thus, for compatibility reasons:
- l'agent gélifiant est hydrophile lorsque présent dans une phase aqueuse, et - l'agent gélifiant est lipophile lorsque présent dans une phase huileuse.the gelling agent is hydrophilic when present in an aqueous phase, and the gelling agent is lipophilic when present in an oily phase.
On entend par « agent gélifiant hydrophile » au sens de la présente invention, un composé apte à gélifier la phase aqueuse des particules colorées. Le gélifiant peut être hydrosoluble ou hydrodispersible. L'agent gélifiant hydrophile peut être choisi parmi les gélifiants polymériques semi-synthétiques, les gélifiants polymériques synthétiques, les gélifiants polymériques naturels ou d'origine naturelle, les silicates mixtes et les silices pyrogénées, et leurs mélanges. Ces agents gélifiants hydrophiles peuvent être cationiques, anioniques, amphotères ou non-ioniques. The term "hydrophilic gelling agent" in the sense of the present invention, a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the colored particles. The gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible. The hydrophilic gelling agent may be chosen from semi-synthetic polymeric gelling agents, synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or natural polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and pyrogenic silicas, and mixtures thereof. These hydrophilic gelling agents may be cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic.
On entend par « agent gélifiant lipophile », un composé apte à gélifier la phase huileuse des particules colorées. Le gélifiant est liposoluble ou lipodispersible. L'agent gélifiant lipophile est avantageusement choisi parmi les gélifiants particulaires ; les élastomères d'organopolysiloxane ; les polymères semi- cristallins ; les polyacrylates ; les esters de sucre/polysaccharide, en particulier les esters de dextrine, les esters d'inuline, les esters de glycérol, en particulier les esters de dextrine ; les polymères à liaison hydrogène ; les copolymères séquencés hydrocarbonés et leurs mélanges.  The term "lipophilic gelling agent" means a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the colored particles. The gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible. The lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents; organopolysiloxane elastomers; semi-crystalline polymers; polyacrylates; sugar / polysaccharide esters, in particular dextrin esters, inulin esters, glycerol esters, in particular dextrin esters; hydrogen-bonded polymers; hydrocarbon block copolymers and mixtures thereof.
Les agents gélifiants hydrophiles ou lipophiles peuvent être choisis parmi ceux décrits dans FR 3 025 096 ou FR 3 025 103.  The hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents may be chosen from those described in FR 3,025,096 or FR 3,025,103.
Les particules colorées peuvent en outre comprendre une charge à effet flouteur.  The colored particles may further comprise a blooming filler.
Une charge à effet flouteur est susceptible de modifier et/ou de masquer les rides par ses propriétés physiques intrinsèques. Ces charges peuvent notamment modifier les rides par un effet tenseur, un effet de camouflage, ou un effet de floutage.  A bloomer load is likely to modify and / or hide the wrinkles by its intrinsic physical properties. These fillers can in particular modify the wrinkles by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect.
En tant que charge à effet flouteur, on peut donner à titre d'exemples les composés suivants :  As a blooming filler, the following compounds can be exemplified:
- les microparticules poreuses de silice comme par exemple les Silica Beads® SB 150 et SB 700 de Myochi de taille moyenne de 5 m et les SUNSPHERES® série H d'Asahi Glass comme les H33, H51 de taille respectivement de 3,5 et 5 μηι et les Sensibead Si 175 et Sensibead Si 320 de Sensient Cosmetic Technologies respectivement de tailles 7 μηι et 5 μηι ;  porous silica microparticles, for example Myochi's Silica Beads® SB 150 and SB 700 of medium size of 5 m and SUNSPHERES® H series of Asahi Glass, such as H33, H51 of size of 3.5 and 5, respectively; μηι and Sensibead Si 175 and Sensibead Si 320 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies respectively of sizes 7 μηι and 5 μηι;
- les particules hémisphériques creuses de résines de silicones comme les NLK 500®, NLK 506® et NLK 510® de Takemoto Oil and Fat, notamment décrites dans EP 1 579 849 ; - les poudres de résine de silicone comme par exemple les SILICON Resin Tospearl® 145 A DE GE silicone de taille moyenne de 4,5 μηι ; hollow hemispherical particles of silicone resins, such as NLK 500®, NLK 506® and NLK 510® from Takemoto Oil and Fat, in particular described in EP 1 579 849; silicone resin powders such as, for example, SILICON Resin Tospearl® 145 A of GE silicone with a mean size of 4.5 μηι;
- les poudres de copolymères acryliques, notamment de poly(meth)acrylate de méthyle comme par exemple les particules PMMA Jurimer MBI® de Nihon Junyoki de taille moyenne de 8 μηι, les sphères creuses de PMMA vendues sous la dénomination COVABEAD® LH 85 par la société Sensient Cosmetic Technologies et les microsphères de vinylidène/acrylonitrile/méthacrylates de méthylène expansées vendues sous la dénomination Expancel® ;  powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of methyl poly (meth) acrylate, for instance PMMA Jurimer MBI® particles of Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 μηι, the hollow spheres of PMMA sold under the name COVABEAD® LH 85 by the Sensient Cosmetic Technologies company and expanded vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel®;
- les poudres de cires comme les particules Paraffin wax microloase® 1 14S de Micropowders de taille moyenne de 7 μηι ;  wax powders such as paraffin wax microloase® 14S particles of micropowders of average size of 7 μηι;
- les poudres de polyéthylènes notamment comprenant au moins un copolymère éthylène/acide acrylique comme par exemple les FLOBEADS® EA 209 E de Sumimoto de taille moyenne de 10 μηι ;  polyethylene powders, in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, for example the FLOBEADS® EA 209 E from Sumimoto with an average size of 10 μηι;
- les poudres d'organopolysiloxanes élastomériques réticulées enrobées de résine de silicone notamment de silsesquioxane sous la dénomination KSP 100®, KSP 101®, KSP 102®, KSP 103®, KSP 104® et KSP 105® par la société Shin Etsu. - les poudres composites de talc/dioxyde ou de titane/alumine/silice comme par exemple les Coverleaf AR 80® de la société Catalyst & Chemical ;  crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100®, KSP 101®, KSP 102®, KSP 103®, KSP 104® and KSP 105® by the company Shin Etsu. talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders, for example Coverleaf AR 80® from Catalyst &Chemical;
- le talc, le mica, le kaolin, la lauryl glycine, les poudres d'amidon réticulé par l'anhydride octéanyl succinate, le nitrure de bore, les poudres de polytétrafluoroéthylène, le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate de l'hydrocarbonate de magnésium, le sulfate de baryum, l'hydroxyapatite, le silicate de calcium, le dioxyde de cérium et les microcapsules de verre ou de céramiques ;  talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octyanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, hydrocarbon carbonate, magnesium, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics;
- les fibres hydrophiles ou hydrophobes synthétiques ou naturelles, minérales ou organiques telles que des fibres de soie, de coton, de laine, de lin, de cellulose extraites notamment du bois, des légumes ou des algues, de polyamide (Nylon®), de cellulose modifiée, de poly-p-phénylène téréphtamide, en acrylique, de polyoléfine, de verre, de silice, d'aramide, de carbone, de polytétrafluoroéthylène (Téflon®), de collagène insoluble, de polyesters, de polychlorure de vinyle ou de vinylidène, d'alcool polyvinylique, de polyacrylonitrile, de chitosane, de polyuréthane, de polyéthylène phtalate, des fibres formées d'un mélange de polymères, les fibres synthétiques résorbables, et leurs mélanges décrites dans la demande de brevet EP 1 151 742 ;  synthetic or natural hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers, mineral or organic, such as silk, cotton, wool, flax, cellulose fibers extracted especially from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, synthetic resorbable fibers, and mixtures thereof described in patent application EP 1 151 742;
- les silicones réticulés élastomères sphériques comme comme les Trefil E- 505C® ou E-506 C® de chez Dow Corning ; - les charges abrasives qui par effet mécanique apportent un lissage du microrelief cutané, telles que la silice abrasive comme par exemple Abrasif SP® de Semanez ou des poudres de noix ou de coques (abricot, noix par exemple de Cosmétochem). spherical elastomeric cross-linked silicones such as Trefil E-505C® or E-506 C® from Dow Corning; abrasive fillers which, by a mechanical effect, provide a smoothing of the cutaneous microrelief, such as abrasive silica, for example Abrasif SP® from Semanez or walnut or shell powders (apricot, walnut, for example from Cosmetochem).
Les charges ayant un effet sur les signes du vieillissement sont notamment choisies parmi des microparticules poreuse de silice, des particules hémisphériques creuses de silicones, des poudres de résine de silicone, des poudres de copolymères acryliques, des poudres de polyéthylènes, des poudres d'organopolysiloxanes élastomériques réticulées enrobées de résine de silicone, des poudres composites de talc/dioxyde de titane/alumine/silice, le carbonate de calcium précipité, le carbonate de l'hydrocarbonate de magnésium, le sulfate de baryum, l'hydroxyapatite, le silicate de calcium, le dioxyde de cérium et les microcapsules de verre ou de céramiques, les fibres de soie, de coton, et leurs mélanges.  The fillers having an effect on the signs of aging are chosen in particular from porous silica microparticles, hollow hemispherical silicone particles, silicone resin powders, acrylic copolymer powders, polyethylene powders and organopolysiloxane powders. crosslinked elastomers coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbonate carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate , cerium dioxide and microcapsules of glass or ceramics, silk fibers, cotton fibers, and mixtures thereof.
Les particules colorées peuvent en outre comprendre une charge « soft focus ». Par charge « soft-focus », on entend une charge qui en plus donne de la transparence au teint et un effet flou.  The colored particles may further comprise a "soft focus" charge. By "soft-focus" load, we mean a load which in addition gives transparency to the complexion and a fuzzy effect.
De préférence, les charges « soft-focus » ont une taille moyenne des particules inférieure ou égale à 15 microns. Ces particules peuvent être de toutes formes et en particulier être sphériques ou non sphériques. De préférence encore, ces charges sont non sphériques.  Preferably, the "soft-focus" charges have an average particle size of less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical. More preferably, these fillers are nonspherical.
Les charges « soft-focus » peuvent être choisies parmi les poudres de silice et silicates, notamment d'alumine, les poudres de type polyméthyl méthacrylate (PMMA), le talc, les composites silice/Ti02 ou silice/oxyde de zinc, les poudres de polyéthylène, les poudres d'amidon, les poudres de polyamides, les poudres de copolymères styrène/acrylique, les élastomères de silicone, et leurs mélanges. The "soft-focus" fillers may be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO 2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powders, starch powders, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.
En particulier, on peut citer le talc de taille moyenne en nombre inférieure ou égale à 3 microns, par exemple du talc de taille moyenne en nombre de 1 ,8 micron et notamment celui vendu sous la dénomination commerciale Talc P3® par la société Nippon Talc, la poudre de Nylon® 12, notamment celle vendue sous le dénomination Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos® par la société Atochem, les particules de silice traitées en surface par une cire minérale 1 à 2 % (nom INCI : hydrated silica (and) paraffin) telles que celles commercialisées par la société Degussa, les microsphères de silice amorphe, telles que celles vendues sous la dénomination Sunsphère par exemple de référence H-53® par la société Asahi Glass, les micro-billes de silice telles que celles vendues sous la dénomination SB- 700® ou SB-150® par la société Miyoshi, les billes de silice Sensibead Si 175 et Sensibead Si 320 de Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, et les billes de PMMA Covabead Velvet 10 et Covabead Velvet 20 de Sensient, cette liste n'étant pas limitative. In particular, mention may be made of talc with a mean size of less than or equal to 3 microns, for example talc of average size in number of 1.8 micron and in particular that sold under the trade name Talc P3® by the company Nippon Talc , Nylon® 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra D Nat Cos® by the company Atochem, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those sold by the company Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphere, for example reference H-53® by Asahi Glass, silica micro-beads such as those sold under the name SB- 700® or SB-150® by Miyoshi, Sensibead Si 175 and Sensibead Si 320 silica balls from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, and Senselier's PMMA Covabead Velvet 10 and Covabead Velvet 20 beads, this list not being exhaustive .
La concentration de ces charges ayant un effet sur les signes du vieillissement dans les particules colorées peut être comprise entre 0,1 % et 60%, voire entre 0,5% et 40%, en particulier entre 1 % et 20%, en poids par rapport au poids total des particules colorées.  The concentration of these fillers having an effect on the signs of aging in the colored particles may be between 0.1% and 60%, or even between 0.5% and 40%, in particular between 1% and 20%, by weight. relative to the total weight of the colored particles.
Selon un mode de réalisation, une particule colorée selon l'invention comprend en outre au moins un agent colorant différent du ou des pigment(s) susmentionné(s).  According to one embodiment, a colored particle according to the invention further comprises at least one coloring agent different from the above-mentioned pigment (s).
Les particules colorées peuvent donc également comprendre un colorant et/ou une nacre, par exemple une nacre Covapearl Star doré 2375 de Sensient Cosmetic Technologies ou Covapearl antique Silver 239 de Sensient Cosmetic Technologies. On choisira de préférence un colorant ou une nacre de couleur différente de celle du pigment utilisé. Par « colorant », on entend une substance chimique colorante soluble dans la particule colorée (ou la phase de la particule colorée dans laquelle le colorant est présent). Par « soluble », on entend que la solubilité à 20°C du colorant dans la particule colorée est supérieure à 2 g/L, notamment supérieure à 5 g/L, de préférence supérieure à 10 g/L.  The colored particles may therefore also comprise a dye and / or a mother-of-pearl, for example a 2375 Gold Covapearl Star nacre by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies or Covapearl Antique Silver 239 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies. Preferably, a dye or a mother-of-pearl of a different color from that of the pigment used will be chosen. By "dye" is meant a coloring chemical substance soluble in the colored particle (or the phase of the colored particle in which the dye is present). By "soluble" is meant that the solubility at 20 ° C of the dye in the colored particle is greater than 2 g / l, especially greater than 5 g / l, preferably greater than 10 g / l.
De préférence, lorsque les particules colorées sont multiphasiques, la phase comprenant le(s) pigment(s) est différente de celle comprenant la(es) nacre(s) ou les(s) colorant(s). En découle un effet visuel exacerbé, voire inattendu, pour le consommateur qui, selon un mode de réalisation particulier, voit sortir du récipient une composition cosmétique d'une couleur (celle de(s) nacre(s) et/ou colorant(s)) totalement différente de celle attendue (celle du pigment des particules colorées).  Preferably, when the colored particles are multiphase, the phase comprising the pigment (s) is different from that comprising the nacre (s) or the dye (s). This results in an exacerbated visual effect, even unexpected, for the consumer who, according to a particular embodiment, sees out of the container a cosmetic composition of a color (that of (s) nacre (s) and / or dye (s) ) totally different from that expected (that of the pigment of the colored particles).
Selon un mode de réalisation, lorsque la particule selon l'invention est une capsule simple telle que définie ci-dessus, le cœur comprend au moins 3%, en particulier au moins 5%, en poids de pigments, et la membrane comprend au moins un agent colorant, en particulier des nacres, d'une couleur différente des pigments encapsulés (et donc du cœur) de préférence dans une teneur telle que la membrane (ou enveloppe) empêche de voir le contenu de la capsule. En découle un effet inattendu pour le consommateur qui voit sortir du pack une composition d'une couleur totalement différente de la couleur des capsules.  According to one embodiment, when the particle according to the invention is a single capsule as defined above, the core comprises at least 3%, in particular at least 5%, by weight of pigments, and the membrane comprises at least a coloring agent, in particular nacres, of a different color of the encapsulated pigments (and therefore of the core), preferably in a content such that the membrane (or envelope) prevents the contents of the capsule from being seen. This results in an unexpected effect for the consumer who sees a package of a color completely different from the color of the capsules coming out of the pack.
Selon un mode de réalisation, lorsque la particule selon l'invention est une capsule complexe telle que définie ci-dessus, le cœur comprend au moins 3%, en particulier au moins 5%, en poids de pigments, et, selon une première variante, les pigments sont présents dans la phase interne (IF), la phase intermédiaire (MF), ou les deux, et selon une deuxième variante, la membrane comprend au moins un agent colorant, en particulier des nacres, de préférence d'une couleur différente des pigments encapsulés (et donc du cœur), de préférence dans une teneur telle que la membrane (ou enveloppe) empêche de voir le contenu de la capsule. En découle des effets visuels inattendus pour le consommateur qui voit sortir du pack une composition d'une couleur totalement différente de la couleur des capsules. According to one embodiment, when the particle according to the invention is a complex capsule as defined above, the core comprises at least 3%, in at least 5%, by weight of pigments, and, according to a first variant, the pigments are present in the inner phase (IF), the intermediate phase (MF), or both, and according to a second variant, the membrane comprises at least one coloring agent, in particular nacres, preferably of a different color of the encapsulated pigments (and therefore of the core), preferably in a content such that the membrane (or envelope) prevents the content of the capsule from being seen. This results in unexpected visual effects for the consumer who sees the pack out of a composition of a color totally different from the color of the capsules.
Les particules selon l'invention peuvent comprendre en outre au moins un composé additionnel différent des composés susmentionnés.  The particles according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional compound different from the abovementioned compounds.
Une particule selon l'invention, en particulier le cœur et/ou l'enveloppe d'une capsule selon l'invention, peut ainsi en outre comprendre à titre de composé additionnel des poudres, des paillettes, des agents particulaires insolubles dans la phase grasse, des élastomères de silicone émulsionnants et/ou non émulsionnants, notamment tels que décrits dans la demande EP 2 353 577, des conservateurs, des humectants, des stabilisateurs, des chélateurs, des émollients, des agents modificateurs choisis parmi les agents de pH, de force osmotique et/ou des modificateurs d'indice de réfraction etc .. ou tout additif cosmétique usuel, et leurs mélanges.  A particle according to the invention, in particular the core and / or the envelope of a capsule according to the invention, can thus additionally comprise, as additional compound, powders, flakes, particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase. , emulsifying and / or non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, especially as described in application EP 2 353 577, preservatives, humectants, stabilizers, chelators, emollients, modifying agents chosen from pH, osmotic force and / or refractive index modifiers etc .. or any usual cosmetic additive, and mixtures thereof.
Une particule selon l'invention, en particulier le cœur et/ou l'enveloppe d'une capsule selon l'invention, peut encore en outre comprendre au moins un actif, notamment biologique ou cosmétique, de préférence choisi parmi les agents hydratants, les agents cicatrisants, les agents dépigmentants, les filtres UV, les agents desquamants, les agents antioxydants, les actifs stimulant la synthèse des macromoléculaires dermiques et/ou épidermiques, les agents dermodécontractants, les agents anti-transpirants, les agents apaisants, les agents anti-âge, les agents parfumants et leurs mélanges. De tels actifs sont notamment décrits dans la demande FR 1 558 849.  A particle according to the invention, in particular the core and / or the envelope of a capsule according to the invention, may furthermore comprise at least one active agent, in particular a biological or a cosmetic active agent, preferably chosen from hydrating agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidants, active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, dermodecontracting agents, antiperspirants, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, age, perfuming agents and their mixtures. Such assets are described in particular in application FR 1 558 849.
Bien entendu, l'homme du métier veillera à choisir les éventuels composé(s) additionnel(s) et/ou actif(s) susmentionnés et/ou leurs quantités respectives de telle manière que les propriétés avantageuses des particules selon l'invention ne soient pas ou substantiellement pas altérées par l'adjonction envisagée. Ces ajustements relèvent des compétences de l'homme du métier.  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compound (s) and / or active (s) mentioned above and / or their respective amounts so that the advantageous properties of the particles according to the invention are not not or substantially unaffected by the proposed addition. These adjustments are within the skill of the skilled person.
L'invention concerne également un procédé de préparation d'une série de particules colorées comprenant une étape c) de formulation d'au moins un pigment sous forme d'une série de particules colorées comprenant au moins 3% en poids de pigment. The invention also relates to a process for preparing a series of colored particles comprising a step c) of formulating at least one pigment in the form of a series of colored particles comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment.
Selon une première alternative du procédé, le pigment mis en œuvre dans l'étape c) est un pigment non traité et non broyé (pigment utilisé « tel quel »).  According to a first alternative of the method, the pigment used in step c) is an untreated and unmilled pigment (pigment used "as is").
Selon une seconde alternative du procédé, le pigment mis en œuvre dans l'étape c) a subi un traitement préalable afin de le rendre plus facilement dispersible lors de la formulation du pigment. Ce traitement préalable consiste à broyer le pigment et/ou à le prétraiter par un additif améliorant sa dispersibilité avant de le formuler sous forme d'une série de particules colorées.  According to a second alternative of the process, the pigment used in step c) has been pre-treated in order to make it more easily dispersible during the formulation of the pigment. This pretreatment consists in grinding the pigment and / or in pretreating it with an additive improving its dispersibility before formulating it in the form of a series of colored particles.
Le procédé de préparation comprend alors les étapes consistant à :  The preparation process then comprises the steps of:
a) fournir au moins un pigment éventuellement prétraité par un additif améliorant la dispersibilité du pigment, puis  a) providing at least one pigment optionally pretreated with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment, then
b) éventuellement broyer ledit au moins un pigment, ledit broyage ayant de préférence lieu lorsque le au moins un pigment n'est pas prétraité,  b) optionally grinding said at least one pigment, said grinding preferably taking place when the at least one pigment is not pretreated,
c) formuler le au moins un pigment obtenu à l'étape a) ou b) sous forme d'une série de particules colorées comprenant au moins 3% en poids de pigment(s).  c) formulating the at least one pigment obtained in step a) or b) in the form of a series of colored particles comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment (s).
L'invention repose notamment sur la découverte que l'utilisation d'un pigment broyé et/ou un pigment prétraité par un additif améliorant sa dispersibilité :  The invention is based in particular on the discovery that the use of a ground pigment and / or a pigment pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility:
- contribue à ce qu'un liquide qui contient le pigment broyé et/ou prétraité ait une viscosité faible,  contributes to a liquid which contains the ground and / or pretreated pigment having a low viscosity,
- contribue à la préparation de particules colorées ayant une teneur en pigment(s) très élevées, comprenant plus de 3% en poids de pigment(s), généralement plus de 5% en poids de pigment(s), voire plus de 7,5% en poids de pigment(s),  contributes to the preparation of colored particles having a content of very high pigment (s), comprising more than 3% by weight of pigment (s), generally more than 5% by weight of pigment (s), or even more than 7%, 5% by weight of pigment (s),
- contribue à la diminution, voire évite, la sédimentation du(es) pigment(s) dans la(es) phase(s) des particules colorées qui le(s) contient(nent), et/ou  - contributes to the decrease or even avoid the sedimentation of the pigment (s) in the phase (s) of the colored particles which contain it (s), and / or
- contribue à la diminution, voir évite, l'agrégation des pigments dans la(es) phase(s) des particules colorées qui le(s) contient(nent).  - contributes to the decrease, or even avoid, the aggregation of the pigments in the phase (s) of the colored particles which contain it (s).
Généralement, lorsque plusieurs pigments sont utilisés, ils subissent tous le même traitement, c'est-à-dire qu'ils sont tous broyés et/ou qu'ils sont tous prétraités. Il est toutefois possible que certains soient broyés et non traités, et d'autres traités et broyés ou non broyés.  Generally, when several pigments are used, they all undergo the same treatment, that is to say they are all ground and / or they are all pretreated. It is possible, however, that some are crushed and untreated, and others treated and crushed or unmilled.
Selon un premier mode de réalisation du procédé selon la seconde alternative, le au moins un pigment de l'étape a) est prétraité par un additif améliorant la dispersibilité du pigment. La nature de l'additif améliorant la dispersibilité du pigment dépend du caractère hydrophile ou lipophile de la(des) phase(s) de la particule colorée qui comprendra(ont) ce pigment traité. According to a first embodiment of the method according to the second alternative, the at least one pigment of step a) is pretreated with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment. The nature of the additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment depends on the hydrophilic or lipophilic nature of the phase (s) of the colored particle which will include (have) this treated pigment.
Lorsque le procédé met en œuvre plusieurs pigments prétraités, ceux-ci peuvent être prétraités avec des additifs identiques ou différents les uns des autres.  When the process uses a plurality of pretreated pigments, these may be pretreated with additives that are identical or different from one another.
Un additif améliorant la dispersibilité du pigment au sein d'une composition huileuse est choisi afin de préparer des particules colorées dont la(es) phase(s) qui comprendra(ont) le pigment est huileuse. L'additif est par exemple choisi parmi la lécithine hydrogénée, une silicone, une cire, un acide aminé ou un de ses sels et un ester d'acide aminé ou un de ses sels. La lécithine hydrogénée comporte des mono- et di-ester de phosphate comportant des chaînes grasses qui favorisent la dispersibilité en phase huileuse. L'additif silicone peut être soit obtenu à partir d'un précurseur de silicone, tel qu'un alkoxyalkylsilane comme le triéthoxycaprylsilane, ou tel qu'un trialkylsiloxysilicate comme le triméthylsiloxysilicate, ou soit être une silicone, comme la diméthicone ou un de ses dérivés, par exemple la bis- hydroxyéthoxypropyl dimethicone, soit être obtenu à partir d'un mélange de silicone et d'un de ses précurseurs, par exemple un mélange diméthicone et triméthylsiloxysilicate. L'additif silicone peut être un traitement hybride, en particulier un mélange de isopropyl titanium triisostéarate, de bis-hydroxyéthoxypropyl diméthicone, de PEG-2 soyamine et de diisocyanate d'isophorone (IPDI). La cire peut par exemple être de la cire florale de rose. L'acide aminé préféré est la cystine, et les esters d'acides aminés préférés sont le sodium cocoyl glutamate, le layroyl arginine ou la lauroyl lysine.  An additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment within an oily composition is chosen to prepare colored particles whose (s) phase (s) which will include (have) the pigment is oily. The additive is for example chosen from hydrogenated lecithin, a silicone, a wax, an amino acid or a salt thereof and an amino acid ester or a salt thereof. Hydrogenated lecithin comprises phosphate mono- and di-ester having fatty chains which promote dispersibility in the oily phase. The silicone additive may be either obtained from a silicone precursor, such as an alkoxyalkylsilane such as triethoxycaprylsilane, or such as a trialkylsiloxysilicate such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, or be a silicone, such as dimethicone or a derivative thereof , for example bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone, or be obtained from a mixture of silicone and one of its precursors, for example a dimethicone and trimethylsiloxysilicate mixture. The silicone additive may be a hybrid treatment, particularly a mixture of isopropyl titanium triisostearate, bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone, PEG-2 soyamine and isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI). The wax may for example be pink floral wax. The preferred amino acid is cystine, and the preferred amino acid esters are sodium cocoyl glutamate, layroyl arginine or lauroyl lysine.
Un additif améliorant la dispersibilité du pigment au sein d'une composition aqueuse est choisi afin de préparer des particules colorées dont la(es) phase(s) qui comprendra(ont) le pigment est aqueuse. Cet additif est notamment de formule (I) suivante : An additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment within an aqueous composition is selected to prepare colored particles whose phase (s) which will include (have) the pigment is aqueous. This additive is in particular of formula (I) below:
dans laquelle : in which :
- n représente 1 ou 2,  n represents 1 or 2,
- M représente H ou un cation,  M represents H or a cation,
- m représente 1 lorsque M est H et m représente la valence du cation lorsque M est un cation,  m is 1 when M is H and m is the valence of the cation when M is a cation,
- R représente : - un groupe G choisi parmi un saccharide ou un groupe ou -[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-0]q-R2 où : - R represents: a group G chosen from a saccharide or a group or - [CH 2 -CH (CH 2 OH) -O] q -R 2 where:
- q représente un nombre entier de 1 à 1000,  q represents an integer of 1 to 1000,
- pour chaque unité CH2-CHRrO, Ri représente indépendamment H ou un méthyle, for each CH 2 -CHRrO unit, R 1 independently represents H or a methyl,
- R2 représente H ou un alkyle comprenant de 1 à 3 atomes de carbone, et,R 2 represents H or an alkyl comprising from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and
- une chaîne hydrocarbonée comprenant de 1 à 500 atomes de carbone substituée par un ou plusieurs groupes G, phosphate (de formule OP03(M)2/m) et/ou hydroxyle (OH). a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 500 carbon atoms substituted with one or more G groups, phosphate (of formula OPO 3 (M) 2 / m ) and / or hydroxyl (OH).
Le groupe -[CH2-CHR O]q-R2 avec Ri représente H correspond à un polyéthylène glycol (PEG). Le groupe -[CH2-CHR O]q-R2 avec Ri représente un méthyle correspond à un polypropylène glycol (PPG). Le groupe-[CH2-CH(CH2OH)- 0]q-R' correspond à un polyglycérol. The group - [CH 2 -CHR O] q -R 2 with R 1 represents H is a polyethylene glycol (PEG). The group - [CH 2 -CHR O] q -R 2 with R 1 represents a methyl corresponds to a polypropylene glycol (PPG). The group [CH 2 -CH (CH 2 OH) -O] q -R 'corresponds to a polyglycerol.
Typiquement, q est un nombre entier de 1 à 500, notamment de 1 à 100, de préférence de 1 à 60.  Typically, q is an integer from 1 to 500, especially from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 60.
De préférence, n représente 2 et l'additif a la formule (Γ) suivante :  Preferably, n represents 2 and the additive has the following formula (Γ):
O I I  O I I
(M) O— P-OR  (M) O-P-OR
1/m |  1 / m |
O(M)  O (M)
1/m ( r) > 1 / m (r)>
dans laquelle M, m et R sont tels que définis ci-dessus. wherein M, m and R are as defined above.
Au sens de la présente demande, une chaîne hydrocarbonée comprend de 1 à 500 atomes de carbone, notamment de 1 à 50, typiquement de 1 à 10 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 1 à 5 atomes de carbone. Les chaînes hydrocarbonées peuvent être linéaires, ramifiées ou cycliques. Les chaînes hydrocarbonées préférées sont les groupes alkyle (ayant de préférence de 1 à 10 atomes de carbone, notamment de 1 à 5 atomes de carbone, de préférence de 1 à 3, tels que les groupes méthyle, éthyle, n-propyle et isopropyle), alcényle (ayant de préférence de 2 à 10 atomes de carbone, en particulier de 2 à 6), aryle (ayant de préférence de 6 à 10 atomes de carbone), arylalkyle (ayant de préférence de 7 à 10 atomes de carbone) ou alkylaryle (ayant de préférence de 7 à 10 atomes de carbone). Le groupe vinylique est le groupe alcényle préféré. Le groupe phényle est l'aryle préféré.  For the purposes of the present application, a hydrocarbon chain comprises from 1 to 500 carbon atoms, especially from 1 to 50, typically from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon chains can be linear, branched or cyclic. The preferred hydrocarbon chains are alkyl groups (preferably having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, especially 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 3, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl and isopropyl groups) alkenyl (preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, especially 2 to 6), aryl (preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms), arylalkyl (preferably 7 to 10 carbon atoms), or alkylaryl (preferably having 7 to 10 carbon atoms). The vinyl group is the preferred alkenyl group. The phenyl group is the preferred aryl.
Un saccharide peut être un mono- ou polysaccharide. Les saccharides préférés sont les mono- ou disaccharide, en particulier les monosaccharides tel que le glucose, le galactose ou le fructose. M peut notamment être un cation inorganique, tel que Ag3+, Al3+, Fe3+, Fe2+, Ag2+, Zn2+, Sn2+, Ca2+, Ba2+, Ag+, Na+ ou un cation organique, tel que un diéthanolammonium (DEA) (H3N+-(CH2)2-OI-l) ou un ammonium quaternaire. A saccharide may be a mono- or polysaccharide. Preferred saccharides are mono- or disaccharide, especially monosaccharides such as glucose, galactose or fructose. M may especially be an inorganic cation, such as Ag 3+ , Al 3+ , Fe 3+ , Fe 2+ , Ag 2+ , Zn 2+ , Sn 2+ , Ca 2+ , Ba 2+ , Ag + , Na + or an organic cation, such as a diethanolammonium (DEA) (H 3 N + - (CH 2 ) 2 -OI-1) or a quaternary ammonium.
Les additifs suivants de formule (II), (III) ou (IV) suivantes sont particulièrement adaptés à la mise en œuvre de l'invention : The following additives of formula (II), (III) or (IV) are particularly suitable for the implementation of the invention:
HO-(CH2CH2-0)— ChL O(M) HO- (CH 2 CH 2 -O) - ChL O (M)
2 2 q I 2 I 1/m 2 2 q I 2 I 1 / m
HO-(CH2CH2-0)— C-0-P=0 HO- (CH 2 CH 2 -O) - C-O-P = 0
d q | |  d q | |
HO-(CH2CH2-0)— CH2 O(M) HO- (CH 2 CH 2 -O) - CH 2 O (M)
q m (ll), q m (ll),
dans laquelle M, m et q sont tels que définis ci-dessus,  in which M, m and q are as defined above,
(qui correspond à un additif de formule (I) dans laquelle n représente 2 et R représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée isopropyle dont chacun des atomes de carbone est substituée par un groupe G qui représente -[Ch CHR OJq-Rg où Ri et(which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2 and R represents an isopropyl hydrocarbon chain each of whose carbon atoms is substituted by a group G which represents - [CH CHR OJ q -Rg where R 1 and
R2 représentent H), R 2 represent H),
O(M) O (M)
I 1/m  I 1 / m
HO-CH-CH-CH-0- P=0  HO-CH-CH-CH-O-P = 0
2 I 2 I 2 I 2 I
OH O(M)  OH O (M)
1/m (lll), 1 / m (III),
dans laquelle M et m sont tels que définis ci-dessus,  in which M and m are as defined above,
(qui correspond à un additif de formule (I) dans laquelle n représente 2, R représente un groupe G de formule -[CH2-CH(CH2OH)-0]q-R2 où q représente 1 et R2 représente H), (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a group G of formula - [CH 2 -CH (CH 2 OH) -O] q -R 2 where q represents 1 and R 2 represents H),
dans laquelle M et m sont tels que définis ci-dessus et q' et q" représentent indépendamment un nombre entier de 0 à 1000, généralement de 0 à 500, notamment de 0 à 100, de préférence de 0 à 60, tel que la somme de q' et q" représentent indépendamment un nombre entier de 1 à 1000,  in which M and m are as defined above and q 'and q "independently represent an integer from 0 to 1000, generally from 0 to 500, especially from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 60, such that sum of q 'and q "independently represent an integer from 1 to 1000,
(qui correspond à un additif de formule (I) dans laquelle n représente 2, R représente un groupe G de formule -[Ch CHR OJq-Rg où q représente la somme de q' et q" et, pour les q" premières unités, Ri représente un méthyle et pour les q' dernières unités, Ri représente H, et R2 représente H). (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a group G of formula - [Ch CHR OJ q -Rg where q represents the sum and for the first units, R 1 is methyl and for the last 4 units R 1 is H and R 2 is H).
Les additifs suivants de formule (V) et (VI) sont également adaptés : The following additives of formula (V) and (VI) are also suitable:
(qui correspond à un additif de formule (I) dans laquelle n représente 2, R représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée cyclohexyle substituée en positions 2, 3, 4, 5 et 6 par un groupe phosphate de formule OP03H2), (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a cyclohexyl hydrocarbon chain substituted at the 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 positions with a phosphate group of formula OPO 3 H 2 ),
(qui correspond à un additif de formule (I) dans laquelle n représente 2, R représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée méthyle liée à un groupe G glucose), dans lesquelles M et m sont tels que définis ci-dessus.  (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a methyl hydrocarbon chain linked to a G group glucose), in which M and m are as defined above.
Les additifs suivants sont particulièrement préférés :  The following additives are particularly preferred:
- le glycereth-26 phosphate, de formule (ΙΓ) suivante :  glycereth-26 phosphate, of formula (ΙΓ) below:
HO-(CH2CH2-0)— ChL OH HO- (CH 2 CH 2 -0) - CHL OH
HO-(CH2CH2-O) -Ç-O-P=O HO- (CH 2 CH 2 -O) -O-OP = O
HO-(CH2CH2-O) 2-6 CH 29 OH ( | |,) ; HO- (CH 2 CH 2 -O) 2-6 CH 2 9 OH (| | , );
(qui correspond à un additif de formule (II) dans laquelle M représente H et m représente 1 ), cet additif étant avantageusement disponible dans le commerce, par exemple chez Croda®, - le glycérophosphate, de formule ( I II') suivante : (which corresponds to an additive of formula (II) wherein M is H and m is 1), said additive being preferably commercially available, eg from Croda ®, the glycerophosphate, of formula (I II ') below:
ONa  We have
I I
HO-CH CH-CH O-P=O HO-CH CH-CH O-P = O
OH ONa  OH ONa
(qui correspond à un additif de formule (III) dans laquelle M représente Na et m représente 1 ), cet additif étant avantageusement disponible dans le commerce, par exemple chez Dr Paul Lohman®, (which corresponds to an additive of formula (III) wherein M represents Na and m represents 1), said additive being preferably commercially available, for example from Dr. Paul Lohman ®,
- le phosphate PEG-26 PPG-30 de diéthanolammonium de formule (IV) suivante :  the diethylammonium phosphate PEG-26 PPG-30 of formula (IV) below:
HO— (-CH CH— O HO- (-CH CH-O
(qui correspond à un additif de formule (IV) dans laquelle M représente un cation diéthanolammonium et m représente 1 ), cet additif étant avantageusement disponible dans le commerce, par exemple chez Innospec®, (which corresponds to an additive of formula (IV) wherein M represents a cation and m represents diethanolammonium 1), said additive being preferably commercially available, for example from Innospec ®,
- l'acide phytique de formule (V) suivante :  the phytic acid of formula (V) below:
(qui correspond à un additif de formule (V) dans laquelle M représente H et m représente 1 ), cet additif étant avantageusement disponible dans le commerce, par exemple chez Nutriscience®, (which corresponds to an additive of formula (V) wherein M is H and m is 1), said additive being preferably commercially available, for example from NutriScience ®,
- du phosphate de glucose, de formule (VI') suivante :  glucose phosphate, of formula (VI ') below:
(qui correspond à un additif de formule (VI) dans laquelle M représente H et m représente 1 ), cet additif étant avantageusement disponible dans le commerce. L'acide phytique est l'additif améliorant la dispersibilité du pigment au sein d'une composition aqueuse préférée. (which corresponds to an additive of formula (VI) in which M represents H and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously available commercially. Phytic acid is the additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment in a preferred aqueous composition.
Le procédé peut comprendre, avant l'étape a), une étape aO) de mélange d'un pigment avec un additif tel que défini ci-dessus pour obtenir un pigment prétraité. Par exemple, le procédé de préparation décrit dans la demande WO 2012/120098 peut être utilisé.  The method may comprise, before step a), a step aO) of mixing a pigment with an additive as defined above to obtain a pretreated pigment. For example, the preparation method described in the application WO 2012/120098 can be used.
Dans ce premier mode de réalisation du procédé selon la seconde alternative mettant en œuvre un pigment prétraité, le procédé peut comprendre une étape b) de broyage du pigment prétraité ou en être exempt. Ce broyage permet de limiter, voire d'éliminer, les agrégats de pigments prétraités, ce qui facilite leur incorporation ultérieure dans la(es) phase(s) des particules colorées et/ou contribue à diminuer la sédimentation du pigment dans la(es) phase(s) des particules colorées qui le contient(nent).  In this first embodiment of the method according to the second alternative implementing a pretreated pigment, the method may comprise a step b) of grinding the pretreated pigment or be free from it. This grinding makes it possible to limit or even eliminate the pretreated pigment aggregates, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase (s) of the colored particles and / or contributes to reducing the sedimentation of the pigment in the (es) phase (s) of the colored particles which contain it.
Cette étape de broyage peut être mise en œuvre en présence d'un liant, ou en l'absence de liant (broyage à sec).  This grinding step may be carried out in the presence of a binder, or in the absence of binder (dry grinding).
Le liant est par exemple la glycérine, le propanediol, un hydrolysat d'amidon hydrogéné, l'octyldodécanol, l'huile de ricin, une huile minérale, l'isononyl isononanoate, la diméthicone et la cyclométhicone, l'isododecane. De préférence, lorsque le pigment n'est pas prétraité ou lorsqu'il est traité par un additif améliorant sa dispersibilité au sein d'une composition aqueuse, le liant est choisi parmi le propanediol, la glycérine et un hydrolysat d'amidon hydrogéné. De préférence, lorsque le pigment est traité par un additif améliorant sa dispersibilité au sein d'une composition huileuse, le liant est choisi parmi la glycérine, l'octyldodécanol, l'huile de ricin, une huile minérale, l'isononyl isononanoate, la diméthicone et la cyclométhicone, l'isododecane.  The binder is, for example, glycerine, propanediol, a hydrogenated starch hydrolyzate, octyldodecanol, castor oil, a mineral oil, isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone and cyclomethicone, isododecane. Preferably, when the pigment is not pretreated or when it is treated with an additive improving its dispersibility in an aqueous composition, the binder is chosen from propanediol, glycerin and a hydrogenated starch hydrolyzate. Preferably, when the pigment is treated with an additive improving its dispersibility within an oily composition, the binder is chosen from glycerol, octyldodecanol, castor oil, a mineral oil, isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone and cyclomethicone, isododecane.
Le broyeur est alors typiquement choisi parmi les broyeurs tricylindres, les broyeurs à billes et les broyeurs à plateaux.  The mill is then typically selected from three-roll mills, ball mills and plate mills.
Lorsque l'étape de broyage est mise en œuvre en l'absence de liant, le broyeur peut être un broyeur à broches, un microniseur à jet, un broyeur à impacts, un broyeur à marteaux, un broyeur à couteaux, un broyeur à boulets, un broyeur vibrant ou un broyeur cryogénique.  When the milling step is carried out in the absence of binder, the mill may be a pin mill, a jet micronizer, an impact mill, a hammer mill, a knife mill, a ball mill , a vibrating mill or a cryogenic mill.
Selon un deuxième mode de réalisation du procédé selon la seconde alternative, le au moins un pigment de l'étape a) n'est pas prétraité par un additif améliorant sa dispersibilité, et le procédé comprend alors une étape b) de broyage du pigment. Ce broyage permet de limiter, voire d'éliminer, les agrégats de pigments prétraités, ce qui facilite leur incorporation ultérieure dans la(es) phase(s) des particules colorées et/ou contribue à diminuer la sédimentation du pigment dans la(es) phase(s) des particules colorées qui le contient(nent). According to a second embodiment of the method according to the second alternative, the at least one pigment of step a) is not pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility, and the process then comprises a step b) of grinding the pigment. This grinding makes it possible to limit or even eliminate the pretreated pigment aggregates, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase (s). colored particles and / or helps to reduce the sedimentation of the pigment in the phase (s) of the colored particles which contain it.
Les modes des réalisations décrits ci-dessus pour le broyage sont bien sûr applicables (type de broyeur, absence ou présence de liant).  The embodiments described above for grinding are of course applicable (type of mill, absence or presence of binder).
Quelle que soit l'alternative et le mode de réalisation du procédé considéré, celui-ci comprend une étape c) consistant à formuler au moins un pigment, sous forme d'une série de particules colorées comprenant au moins 3% en poids de pigment(s). Whatever the alternative and the embodiment of the process in question, it comprises a step c) of formulating at least one pigment, in the form of a series of colored particles comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment ( s).
De préférence, le pigment est celui obtenu à l'étape a) ou b). Un liquide comprenant un pigment broyé et/ou prétraité comme défini ci-dessus présente en effet une viscosité plus faible qu'un liquide comprenant un pigment non broyé et non prétraité. Un liquide comprenant un pigment broyé et/ou prétraité peut donc être formulé bien plus facilement sous forme d'une série de particules colorées. De plus, la phase qui contiendra le pigment sera moins sujette à la sédimentation du pigment.  Preferably, the pigment is that obtained in step a) or b). A liquid comprising a pigment ground and / or pretreated as defined above indeed has a lower viscosity than a liquid comprising uncrushed and unprocessed pigment. A liquid comprising a ground and / or pretreated pigment can therefore be formulated much more easily in the form of a series of colored particles. In addition, the phase that contains the pigment will be less prone to sedimentation of the pigment.
Généralement, les particules colorées formulées à l'étape c) comprennent en tout ou partie au moins un polysaccharide, et en particulier au moins un polyélectrolyte partiellement ou totalement gélifié.  Generally, the colored particles formulated in step c) comprise all or part of at least one polysaccharide, and in particular at least one partially or totally gelled polyelectrolyte.
Dans un premier mode de réalisation, la formulation de l'étape c) met en œuvre une solution liquide qui comprend à la fois le(s) pigment(s), de préférence obtenu à l'étape a) ou b), et In a first embodiment, the formulation of step c) implements a liquid solution that comprises both the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b), and
- soit un polyélectrolyte,  - a polyelectrolyte,
- soit une solution contenant un réactif propre à réagir avec un polyélectrolyte. Typiquement, l'étape c) selon ce premier mode de réalisation comprend les sous-étapes suivantes :  or a solution containing a reagent capable of reacting with a polyelectrolyte. Typically, step c) according to this first embodiment comprises the following substeps:
C1 a) mélange du au moins un pigment, de préférence obtenu à l'étape a) ou b), avec une solution liquide contenant au moins un polyélectrolyte liquide propre à gélifier,  C1 a) mixing the at least one pigment, preferably obtained in step a) or b), with a liquid solution containing at least one liquid polyelectrolyte suitable for gelling,
C1 b) introduire au goutte à goutte le mélange obtenu à l'étape C1 a) dans une solution contenant un réactif propre à réagir avec le polyélectrolyte pour le faire passer au moins partiellement d'un état liquide à un état gélifié;  C1 b) introducing dropwise the mixture obtained in step C1 a) in a solution containing a reagent suitable for reacting with the polyelectrolyte to pass at least partially from a liquid state to a gelled state;
C1 c) récupération des particules colorées formées. ou bien l'étape c) comprend les sous-étapes suivantes : C1 c) recovery of the colored particles formed. or else step c) comprises the following substeps:
C2a) mélange du au moins un pigment, de préférence obtenu à l'étape a) ou b), avec une solution contenant un réactif propre à réagir avec un polyélectrolyte, C2a) mixing the at least one pigment, preferably obtained in step a) or b), with a solution containing a reagent suitable for reacting with a polyelectrolyte,
C2b) introduire au goutte à goutte le mélange obtenu à l'étape C2a) dans une solution liquide contenant un polyélectrolyte liquide propre à gélifier, ce par quoi le polyélectrolyte (à proximité immédiate des gouttes de mélange obtenu à l'étape C2a) passe au moins partiellement d'un état liquide à un état gélifié ; C2b) introducing the mixture obtained in step C2a) dropwise into a liquid solution containing a liquid polyelectrolyte suitable for gelling, whereby the polyelectrolyte (in the immediate vicinity of the drops of mixture obtained in step C2a) goes to less partially from a liquid state to a gelled state;
C2c) récupération des particules colorées formées.  C2c) recovery of the colored particles formed.
Le polyélectrolyte est de préférence un polyélectrolyte réactif aux ions multivalents, notamment un polysaccharide réactif aux ions multivalents tel qu'un alginate d'alcalin, une géllane, une pectine, une cellulose ou un dérivé de cellulose, comme la carboxyméthylcellulose, ou de l'agar-agar. De préférence, il s'agit d'un alginate alcalin, tel qu'un alginate de sodium.  The polyelectrolyte is preferably a polyelectrolyte reactive with multivalent ions, especially a polysaccharide reactive with multivalent ions such as an alkali alginate, a gelatin, a pectin, a cellulose or a cellulose derivative, such as carboxymethylcellulose, or of agar. Preferably, it is an alkaline alginate, such as sodium alginate.
Le réactif propre à réagir avec le polyélectrolyte pour le faire passer d'un état liquide à un état gélifié est typiquement une solution comprenant des ions multivalents tels que des ions d'un métal alcalino-terreux choisis par exemple parmi les ions calcium, les ions baryum, les ions magnésium.  The reagent capable of reacting with the polyelectrolyte to change it from a liquid state to a gelled state is typically a solution comprising multivalent ions such as alkaline earth metal ions selected for example from calcium ions, ions barium, magnesium ions.
Lorsque la solution liquide utilisée à l'étape C1 a) ou C2a) est huileuse, le pigment utilisé à l'étape a) est de préférence un pigment non prétraité ou un pigment prétraité par un additif améliorant sa dispersibilité au sein d'une composition huileuse.  When the liquid solution used in step C1 a) or C2a) is oily, the pigment used in step a) is preferably an unprocessed pigment or a pigment pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility within a composition oily.
Lorsque la solution liquide utilisée à l'étape C1 a) ou C2a) est aqueuse, le pigment utilisé à l'étape a) est de préférence un pigment non prétraité ou un pigment prétraité par un additif améliorant sa dispersibilité au sein d'une composition aqueuse.  When the liquid solution used in step C1 a) or C2a) is aqueous, the pigment used in step a) is preferably an unprocessed pigment or a pigment pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility within a composition aqueous.
Le mélange obtenu à l'étape C1 a) ou C1 b) comprend de préférence plus de 10% en poids, notamment plus de 15% en poids, par exemple entre 20 et 50% en poids de pigment(s) (teneurs cumulées quand il y a plusieurs pigments). De telles proportions sont en effet adaptées pour que la proportion massique en pigment(s) des particules colorées obtenues à la fin du procédé soit supérieure à 3% en poids, de préférence supérieure à 5% en poids.  The mixture obtained in stage C1 a) or C1 b) preferably comprises more than 10% by weight, especially more than 15% by weight, for example between 20 and 50% by weight of pigment (s) (cumulative contents when there are several pigments). Such proportions are indeed adapted so that the mass proportion of pigment (s) colored particles obtained at the end of the process is greater than 3% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight.
La solution utilisée à l'étape C2a) peut en outre comprendre au moins un agent épaississant, par exemple un polysaccharide comme la xanthane.  The solution used in step C2a) may further comprise at least one thickening agent, for example a polysaccharide such as xanthan.
Lors de l'étape C1 b), les gouttes sont immergées dans la solution contenant un réactif propre à réagir avec le polyélectrolyte. Lors de l'étape C2b), les gouttes sont immergées dans la solution de polyélectrolyte. L'adaptation de la durée de l'étape C1 b) ou C2b) permet d'obtenir des particules partiellement ou totalement gélifiées. Quand la totalité du polyélectrolyte gélifie, les particules colorées formées sont des « particules pleines », également appelées particules monophasiques. Quand le polyélectrolyte ne passe que partiellement d'un état liquide à un état gélifié, les particules colorées comprennent une enveloppe gélifiée encapsulant totalement le cœur liquide. Cette adaptation de la durée de l'étape C1 b) ou C2b) relève des connaissances générales de l'homme du métier. In step C1 b), the drops are immersed in the solution containing a reagent suitable for reacting with the polyelectrolyte. In step C2b), the drops are immersed in the polyelectrolyte solution. Adaptation of the duration of step C1 b) or C2b) makes it possible to obtain partially or totally gelled particles. When all the polyelectrolyte gels, the colored particles formed are "solid particles", also called monophasic particles. When the polyelectrolyte passes only partially from a liquid state to a gelled state, the colored particles comprise a gelled envelope completely encapsulating the liquid core. This adaptation of the duration of step C1 b) or C2b) is a general knowledge of the skilled person.
Dans un second mode de réalisation, la formulation de l'étape c) met en œuvre deux solutions liquides distinctes, l'une qui comprend le pigment, de préférence obtenu à l'étape a) ou b), et l'autre qui comprend un polyélectrolyte. Les particules colorées comprennent un cœur et une enveloppe encapsulant totalement le cœur. Généralement, le au moins un pigment est dans la phase (une des phases) formant le cœur. Avantageusement, le(s) pigment(s) ne migrent pas dans l'enveloppe, ce qui permet qu'il ne dégorge pas hors des particules. In a second embodiment, the formulation of step c) implements two distinct liquid solutions, one which comprises the pigment, preferably obtained in step a) or b), and the other which comprises a polyelectrolyte. The colored particles comprise a core and a casing completely encapsulating the heart. Generally, the at least one pigment is in the phase (one of the phases) forming the core. Advantageously, the pigment (s) do not migrate into the envelope, which allows it to not disintegrate out of the particles.
Les particules colorées peuvent comprendre un cœur liquide ou au moins en partie gélifié ou au moins en partie thixotrope contenant le(s) pigment(s), de préférence obtenu(s) à l'étape a) ou b), et une enveloppe gélifiée encapsulant totalement le cœur. Ce cœur liquide ou au moins en partie gélifié ou au moins en partie thixotrope peut être à base d'une phase majoritairement huileuse. Dans ce cas, si un pigment prétraité a été mis en œuvre dans le procédé, il s'agit d'un pigment prétraité avec un additif améliorant la dispersibilité du pigment au sein d'une composition huileuse. Ce cœur peut être à base d'une phase majoritairement aqueuse. Dans ce cas, si un pigment prétraité a été mis en œuvre dans le procédé, il s'agit d'un pigment prétraité avec un additif améliorant la dispersibilité du pigment au sein d'une composition aqueuse.  The colored particles may comprise a liquid or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic heart containing the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b), and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating the heart. This liquid heart or at least partly gelled or at least partially thixotropic may be based on a predominantly oily phase. In this case, if a pretreated pigment has been used in the process, it is a pretreated pigment with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment within an oily composition. This heart may be based on a predominantly aqueous phase. In this case, if a pretreated pigment has been used in the process, it is a pretreated pigment with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment in an aqueous composition.
Lorsque les particules colorées comprennent un cœur contenant le(s) pigment(s), de préférence obtenu(s) à l'étape a) ou b), et une enveloppe gélifiée encapsulant totalement le cœur, l'étape c) comprend typiquement les sous-étapes suivantes :  When the colored particles comprise a core containing the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b), and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating the core, step c) typically comprises the following substeps:
C3a) convoyage séparé dans une double enveloppe d'une première solution liquide contenant le(s) pigment(s), de préférence obtenu(s) à l'étape a) ou b), et d'une deuxième solution liquide contenant au moins un polyélectrolyte liquide propre à gélifier ;  C3a) separate conveying in a double jacket of a first liquid solution containing the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b), and a second liquid solution containing at least a liquid polyelectrolyte suitable for gelling;
C3b) formation, à la sortie de la double enveloppe, d'une série de gouttes, chaque goutte comprenant un noyau central formé de première solution liquide, et une pellicule périphérique formée de deuxième solution et recouvrant totalement le noyau central, où la deuxième solution (40) contient au moins un agent tensioactif avant son contact avec la première solution ; C3b) formation, at the exit of the double envelope, of a series of drops, each drop comprising a central core formed of the first liquid solution, and a peripheral film formed of a second solution and completely covering the central core, wherein the second solution (40) contains at least one surfactant prior to contact with the first solution;
C3c) détachement de chaque corps liquide à l'écart de la double enveloppe et chute de chaque corps liquide dans un volume d'air ;  C3c) detachment of each liquid body away from the jacket and drop of each liquid body into a volume of air;
C3d) immersion de chaque goutte dans une solution contenant un réactif propre à réagir avec le polyélectrolyte de la pellicule pour le faire passer d'un état liquide à un état gélifié et former l'enveloppe gélifiée, le noyau central formant le cœur ; et  C3d) immersing each drop in a solution containing a reagent capable of reacting with the polyelectrolyte of the film to change it from a liquid state to a gelled state and form the gelled envelope, the central core forming the core; and
C3e) récupération des particules colorées formées.  C3e) recovery of the colored particles formed.
De préférence, la première solution liquide est une composition aqueuse comprenant, voire consistant en, le(s) pigment(s), de préférence obtenu(s) à l'étape a) ou b), éventuellement un liant, notamment tel que défini ci-dessus, au moins un conservateur et au moins un polymère, notamment choisi parmi l'acide hyaluronique ou un de ses sels, la carraghénane, la gellane, un polysiloxane, et leurs mélanges.  Preferably, the first liquid solution is an aqueous composition comprising, or even consisting of, the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b), optionally a binder, especially as defined above, at least one preservative and at least one polymer, especially chosen from hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, carrageenan, gellan, a polysiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
La première solution liquide comprend de préférence plus de 10% en poids, notamment plus de 20% en poids, par exemple entre 25 et 50% en poids de pigment(s) (teneurs cumulées quand il y a plusieurs pigments). De telles proportions sont en effet adaptées pour que la proportion massique en pigment(s) des particules colorées obtenues à la fin du procédé soit supérieure à 3% en poids, de préférence supérieure à 5% en poids.  The first liquid solution preferably comprises more than 10% by weight, in particular more than 20% by weight, for example between 25 and 50% by weight of pigment (s) (cumulated content when there are several pigments). Such proportions are indeed adapted so that the mass proportion of pigment (s) colored particles obtained at the end of the process is greater than 3% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight.
Le tensioactif est notamment choisi parmi un agent tensioactif anionique, un agent tensioactif cationique, un agent tensioactif non ionique ou leurs mélanges. De préférence, il est choisi parmi un alkylsulfate, un alkyle sulfonate, un alkylarylsulfonate, un alkylphosphate alcalin, un dialkylsulfosuccinate, un sel d'alcalino-terreux d'acides gras saturés ou non, un sel d'halogénure d'alkylpyridium ou d'alkylammonium comme le chlorure ou le bromure de n- éthyldodecylammonium, le chlorure ou le bromure de cétylamonium, des dérivés polyoxyéthylénés et/ou polyoxypropylénés des alcools gras, des acides gras ou des alkylphénols, ou parmi des arylphénols, des alkyls glucosides, des polysorbates, des cocamides ou leurs mélanges. De préférence, il s'agit de dodécyl sulfate de sodium.  The surfactant is especially chosen from an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant or mixtures thereof. Preferably, it is chosen from an alkyl sulphate, an alkyl sulphonate, an alkyl aryl sulphonate, an alkaline alkyl phosphate, a dialkyl sulphosuccinate, an alkaline earth salt of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, an alkylpyridium halide salt or alkylammonium such as n-ethyldodecylammonium chloride or bromide, cetylammonium chloride or bromide, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated derivatives of fatty alcohols, fatty acids or alkylphenols, or from arylphenols, alkyl glucosides, polysorbates, cocamides or mixtures thereof. Preferably, it is sodium dodecyl sulfate.
Le ou chaque poyélectrolyte et le réactif propre à réagir avec le polyélectrolyte sont de préférence tels que définis ci-dessus. La deuxième solution liquide contenant un polyélectrolyte liquide propre à gélifier peut également contenir une nacre et/ou un colorant, de préférence de couleur différente de celle du pigment de la première solution liquide. The or each electrolyte and the reagent suitable for reacting with the polyelectrolyte are preferably as defined above. The second liquid solution containing a liquid polyelectrolyte suitable for gelation may also contain a mother-of-pearl and / or a dye, preferably of a color different from that of the pigment of the first liquid solution.
Par exemple, selon ce deuxième mode de réalisation, la formulation de l'étape c) peut être mise en œuvre en suivant le procédé décrit dans la demande WO 2010/063937.  For example, according to this second embodiment, the formulation of step c) can be implemented by following the method described in WO 2010/063937.
Le cœur des particules colorées peut comporter une goutte intermédiaire d'une phase intermédiaire, la phase intermédiaire étant placée au contact de l'enveloppe, et au moins une, de préférence une unique, goutte interne d'une phase interne disposée dans la goutte intermédiaire. L'étape c) comprend alors typiquement les sous-étapes suivantes : The core of the colored particles may comprise an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the envelope, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase disposed in the intermediate droplet. . Step c) then typically comprises the following substeps:
C4a) convoyage séparé dans une triple enveloppe d'une phase interne destinée à former la/les goutte(s) interne du cœur, d'une phase intermédiaire destinée à former la goutte intermédiaire du cœur, et d'une première solution contenant un polyélectrolyte liquide propre à gélifier destiné à former l'enveloppe gélifiée, ladite première solution contenant de préférence un tensioactif ;  C4a) separated conveying in a triple envelope of an internal phase intended to form the internal drop (s) of the core, of an intermediate phase intended to form the intermediate drop of the core, and of a first solution containing a polyelectrolyte clean liquid to be gelled for forming the gelled shell, said first solution preferably containing a surfactant;
C4b) formation à la sortie de la triple enveloppe d'une série de corps liquides, chaque corps liquide comportant au moins une, de préférence une unique, goutte interne de phase interne disposée dans une goutte intermédiaire de phase intermédiaire, ladite goutte intermédiaire étant revêtue d'une pellicule périphérique formée de première solution ;  C4b) formation at the exit of the triple envelope of a series of liquid bodies, each liquid body comprising at least one, preferably a single internal internal phase drop disposed in an intermediate phase intermediate drop, said intermediate drop being coated a peripheral film formed of first solution;
C4c) détachement de chaque corps liquide à l'écart de la triple enveloppe et chute de chaque corps liquide dans un volume d'air ;  C4c) detachment of each liquid body away from the triple envelope and fall of each liquid body into a volume of air;
C4d) immersion de chaque corps liquide dans une solution contenant un réactif propre à réagir avec le polyélectrolyte de la pellicule pour le faire passer d'un état liquide à un état gélifié et former l'enveloppe gélifiée ;  C4d) immersing each liquid body in a solution containing a reagent capable of reacting with the polyelectrolyte of the film to change it from a liquid state to a gelled state and form the gelled envelope;
C4e) récupération des particules colorées formées, de préférence avec un rapport du volume du cœur au volume de l'enveloppe supérieur à 2, avantageusement inférieur à 50,  C4e) recovery of the colored particles formed, preferably with a ratio of the volume of the core to the volume of the envelope greater than 2, advantageously less than 50,
où la phase interne et/ou la phase intermédiaire contient le(s) pigment(s), de préférence obtenu(s) à l'étape a) ou b). De préférence, la phase interne est celle qui contient le(s) pigment(s). De préférence, la phase intermédiaire est celle qui contient le(s) pigment(s).  where the inner phase and / or the intermediate phase contains the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b). Preferably, the internal phase is that which contains the pigment (s). Preferably, the intermediate phase is that which contains the pigment (s).
Le polyélectrolyte, le tensioactif et le réactif sont de préférence tels que définis ci-dessus. La première solution contenant un polyélectrolyte liquide propre à gélifier destiné à former l'enveloppe gélifiée peut en outre comprendre une nacre (des nacres) et/ou au moins un colorant, de préférence d'une couleur différente de celle du pigment contenu dans la phase interne et/ou la phase intermédiaire. The polyelectrolyte, the surfactant and the reagent are preferably as defined above. The first solution containing a clean liquid polyelectrolyte to be gelled for forming the gelled envelope may further comprise a mother-of-pearl (nacres) and / or at least one dye, preferably of a color different from that of the pigment contained in the phase. internal and / or intermediate phase.
Généralement une des phases parmi la phase interne et la phase intermédiaire est aqueuse et l'autre est huileuse. Par exemple, la phase intermédiaire est une composition aqueuse comprenant, voire consistant en le(s) pigment(s), éventuellement un liant, notamment tel que défini ci-dessus, au moins un conservateur et au moins un polymère, notamment choisi parmi l'acide hyaluronique ou un de ses sels, la carraghénane, la gellane, un polysiloxane, et leurs mélanges, et la phase interne est une huile végétale telle qu'une huile d'amande, d'abricot ou de jojoba.  Generally one of the phases of the inner phase and the intermediate phase is aqueous and the other is oily. For example, the intermediate phase is an aqueous composition comprising, or even consisting of, the pigment (s), optionally a binder, especially as defined above, at least one preservative and at least one polymer, in particular chosen from hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, carrageenan, gellan, a polysiloxane, and mixtures thereof, and the inner phase is a vegetable oil such as almond, apricot or jojoba oil.
La phase intermédiaire comprend de préférence plus de 10% en poids, notamment plus de 20% en poids, par exemple entre 25 et 50% en poids de pigment (teneurs cumulées quand il y a plusieurs pigments). De telles proportions sont en effet adaptées pour que la proportion massique en pigment des particules colorées obtenues à la fin du procédé soit supérieure à 3% en poids.  The intermediate phase preferably comprises more than 10% by weight, in particular more than 20% by weight, for example between 25 and 50% by weight of pigment (contents cumulated when there are several pigments). Such proportions are indeed adapted so that the mass proportion of pigment colored particles obtained at the end of the process is greater than 3% by weight.
Par exemple, la formulation de l'étape c) peut être mise en œuvre en suivant le procédé décrit dans la demande WO 2012/089820.  For example, the formulation of step c) can be implemented by following the method described in WO 2012/089820.
Une solution comprenant un pigment broyé et/ou prétraité comme défini ci- dessus présente une viscosité plus faible qu'une solution comprenant un pigment non broyé et non prétraité. Généralement, la viscosité : A solution comprising a ground and / or pretreated pigment as defined above has a lower viscosity than a solution comprising unmilled and unprocessed pigment. Generally, the viscosity:
- du mélange obtenu à l'étape C1 a),  the mixture obtained in stage C1 a),
- du mélange obtenu à l'étape C2a),  the mixture obtained in stage C2a),
- de la première solution liquide de l'étape C3a),  the first liquid solution of step C3a),
- de la phase interne contenant le(s) pigment(s) de l'étape C4a) et/ou de la phase intermédiaire contenant le(s) pigment(s) de l'étape C4b),  the internal phase containing the pigment (s) of step C4a) and / or the intermediate phase containing the pigment (s) of step C4b),
est comprise de 1 mPa.s à 500 000 mPa.s, de préférence de 10 mPa.s à 300 000 mPa.s, mieux de 400 mPa.s à 100 000 mPa.s, et plus particulièrement de 1 000 mPa.s à 30 000 mPa.s, telle que mesurée à 25°C et à pression ambiante (1 013 mbar). La viscosité peut être mesurée avec un appareil Brookfield modèle Viscosimètre LVDV2T à une vitesse de 10 tours par minutes.  is from 1 mPa.s to 500,000 mPa.s, preferably from 10 mPa.s to 300,000 mPa.s, more preferably from 400 mPa.s to 100,000 mPa.s, and more particularly from 1,000 mPa.s. at 30,000 mPa.s as measured at 25 ° C and at ambient pressure (1,013 mbar). The viscosity can be measured with a Brookfield Model Viscometer LVDV2T machine at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute.
Ces viscosités peuvent être adaptées en utilisant un agent gélifiant, notamment tel que défini ci-dessus. Par exemple :  These viscosities can be adapted by using a gelling agent, especially as defined above. For example :
- le mélange obtenu à l'étape C1 a), - le mélange obtenu à l'étape C2a), the mixture obtained in stage C1 a), the mixture obtained in stage C2a),
- la première solution liquide de l'étape C3a),  the first liquid solution of step C3a),
- la phase interne contenant le(s) pigment(s) de l'étape C4a) et/ou la phase intermédiaire contenant le(s) pigment(s) de l'étape C4b),  the internal phase containing the pigment (s) of step C4a) and / or the intermediate phase containing the pigment (s) of step C4b),
comprend un agent gélifiant, notamment tel que défini ci-dessus.  comprises a gelling agent, especially as defined above.
Quel que soit le mode de réalisation utilisé, le procédé peut comprendre, après l'étape c), une étape d) de rinçage des particules colorées. Whatever the embodiment used, the method may comprise, after step c), a step d) rinsing the colored particles.
Dans le cas des capsules complexes, le procédé peut comprendre, après l'étape c), une étape e) de dépolymérisation. Cette étape e) de dépolymérisation a pour but de supprimer l'enveloppe gélifiée lorsque comprenant au moins un polyélectrolyte gélifié. Cette étape e) peut être effectuée par toute méthode de dépolymérisation connue de l'homme du métier. Dans le cas d'une enveloppe gélifiée d'alginate, la dépolymérisation peut être effectuée par immersion dans une solution de dépolymérisation, comme par exemple une solution de citrate de sodium concentrée à une teneur massique de 5% minimum, typiquement de 10%. On peut encore citer des solutions d'ions tartrates, d'acide phytique ou d'EDTA, toute solution d'espèces dites chélatantes pour les cations divalents, ou encore des solutions de polymères d'acide acrylique type carbomer, carbopol, polyacrylamide ou polyacrylate. In the case of complex capsules, the process may comprise, after step c), a step e) of depolymerization. This step e) of depolymerization is intended to remove the gelled envelope when comprising at least one gelled polyelectrolyte. This step e) can be carried out by any depolymerization method known to those skilled in the art. In the case of a gelled envelope of alginate, the depolymerization can be carried out by immersion in a depolymerization solution, such as, for example, a solution of sodium citrate concentrated at a mass content of at least 5%, typically of 10%. It is also possible to mention tartrate ion, phytic acid or EDTA solutions, any solution of so-called chelating species for divalent cations, or solutions of acrylic acid polymers such as carbomer, carbopol, polyacrylamide or polyacrylate type. .
De préférence, la phase (ou enveloppe) intermédiaire n'est pas altérée par l'étape e) de dépolymérisation.  Preferably, the intermediate phase (or envelope) is not altered by the depolymerization step e).
Avantageusement, le procédé selon l'invention ne comprend pas d'étape de séchage des particules. Advantageously, the method according to the invention does not include a step of drying the particles.
L'invention concerne également une série de particules colorées susceptibles d'être obtenues par le procédé ci-dessus, lesdites particules comprenant au moins 3% en poids, de préférence au moins 5% en poids, notamment au moins 10% en poids, notamment au moins 13% en poids de pigment(s). The invention also relates to a series of colored particles that can be obtained by the above process, said particles comprising at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 10% by weight, in particular at least 13% by weight of pigment (s).
L'invention concerne également l'utilisation d'au moins une série de particules colorées pour une introduction dans une composition cosmétique. The invention also relates to the use of at least one series of colored particles for introduction into a cosmetic composition.
Les particules ou séries de particules selon l'invention peuvent notamment être utilisées dans le domaine cosmétique. L'invention concerne également une composition cosmétique, de préférence une composition de maquillage comprenant au moins une série de particules colorées. The particles or series of particles according to the invention can in particular be used in the cosmetics field. The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition comprising at least one series of colored particles.
Les compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention peuvent comprendre, outre les ingrédients susmentionnés, au moins un milieu physiologiquement acceptable.  The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, at least one physiologically acceptable medium.
L'invention concerne donc également une composition comprenant au moins une particule telle que définie ci-dessus ou au moins une série de particules telles que définies ci-dessus, en association avec un milieu physiologique acceptable.  The invention therefore also relates to a composition comprising at least one particle as defined above or at least one series of particles as defined above, in association with an acceptable physiological medium.
Par "milieu physiologiquement acceptable", on entend désigner un milieu convenant particulièrement à l'application d'une composition de l'invention sur les matières kératiniques, notamment la peau, les lèvres, les ongles, les cils ou les sourcils, et de préférence la peau.  By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, the nails, the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and preferably the skin.
Le milieu physiologiquement acceptable est généralement adapté à la nature du support sur lequel doit être appliquée la composition, ainsi qu'à l'aspect sous lequel la composition doit être conditionnée.  The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.
La présence d'un milieu physiologiquement acceptable peut contribuer à améliorer la conservation et/ou préserver l'intégrité dans le temps des particules colorées selon l'invention.  The presence of a physiologically acceptable medium can contribute to improving the conservation and / or preserving the integrity over time of the colored particles according to the invention.
Selon un mode de réalisation, le milieu physiologiquement acceptable est sous la forme d'un gel aqueux, dont la viscosité est adaptée pour assurer la suspension des particules colorées selon l'invention.  According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium is in the form of an aqueous gel, the viscosity of which is adapted to ensure the suspension of the colored particles according to the invention.
Selon un mode de réalisation, les compositions cosmétiques sont utilisées pour le maquillage et/ou le soin de matières kératiniques, notamment de la peau.  According to one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are used for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, especially the skin.
Les compositions cosmétiques selon l'invention peuvent être des produits de soin, de protection solaire, de nettoyage (démaquillage), d'hygiène ou de maquillage de la peau.  The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be skincare, sun protection, cleaning (makeup removal), hygiene or make-up products for the skin.
Ces compositions sont donc destinées à être appliquées notamment sur la peau, les lèvres ou les cheveux.  These compositions are therefore intended to be applied especially to the skin, lips or hair.
Ainsi, la présente invention concerne également l'utilisation cosmétique non thérapeutique d'une composition cosmétique susmentionnée, comme produit de maquillage, d'hygiène, de nettoyage et/ou de soin de matières kératiniques, notamment de la peau.  Thus, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition mentioned above, as a makeup, hygiene, cleaning and / or care product for keratinous substances, in particular the skin.
Selon un mode de réalisation, les compositions de l'invention sont sous la forme d'un fond de teint, d'un démaquillant, d'un soin du visage et/ou du corps et/ou du cheveu, d'un soin anti-âge, d'un protecteur solaire, d'un soin peau grasse, d'un soin whitening, d'un soin hydratant, d'une BB cream, crème teintée ou fond de teint, d'un nettoyant visage et/ou corps, d'un gel douche ou d'un shampoing. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention are in the form of a foundation, a makeup remover, a facial and / or body and / or hair care, anti age, a sun protection, a oily skin care, a whitening care, a moisturizer, a BB cream, tinted cream or foundation, a facial and / or body cleanser, a shower gel or a shampoo.
Une composition de soin selon l'invention peut être en particulier une composition solaire, une crème de soin, un sérum ou un déodorant.  A care composition according to the invention can be in particular a solar composition, a care cream, a serum or a deodorant.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent être sous diverses formes, notamment sous forme de crème, de baume, de lotion, de sérum, de gel, de gel- crème ou encore de brume.  The compositions according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in the form of cream, balm, lotion, serum, gel, gel-cream or mist.
En particulier, une composition selon l'invention est une composition de soin et/ou de maquillage des matières kératiniques, en particulier de la peau, et est notamment une composition de fond de teint.  In particular, a composition according to the invention is a care and / or makeup composition for keratinous substances, in particular the skin, and is in particular a foundation composition.
Au vu de ce qui précède, une composition selon l'invention et en particulier les particules selon l'invention, ne concernent pas, et sont donc différentes, des « two- way cakes » ou encore des compositions cosmétiques sous forme de poudres, comme décrits dans EP 1 036 555.  In view of the foregoing, a composition according to the invention and in particular the particles according to the invention do not concern, and are therefore different from, "two-way cakes" or else cosmetic compositions in the form of powders, such as described in EP 1 036 555.
La présente invention concerne également un procédé non thérapeutique de traitement cosmétique d'une matière kératinique, en particulier de la peau, des lèvres ou des cheveux, comprenant au moins une étape d'application sur ladite matière kératinique d'au moins une composition selon l'invention.  The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material, in particular of the skin, lips or hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin material at least one composition according to the invention. 'invention.
En particulier, la présente invention concerne un procédé non thérapeutique de traitement cosmétique de la peau, des lèvres ou des cheveux, comprenant une étape d'application sur la peau d'au moins une composition selon l'invention.  In particular, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips or hair, comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one composition according to the invention.
La composition cosmétique comprend de préférence au moins 3% en poids de pigment(s), notamment au moins 5%, par exemple au moins 7,5% en poids de pigment(s). La proportion massique maximale de pigment(s) dans la composition est généralement de 50%, voire 30%. The cosmetic composition preferably comprises at least 3% by weight of pigment (s), in particular at least 5%, for example at least 7.5% by weight of pigment (s). The maximum mass proportion of pigment (s) in the composition is generally 50% or even 30%.
La coloration conférée par les particules colorées peut par exemple être mesurée par spectrocolorimétrie et/ou spectrophotocolorimétrie.  The coloration conferred by the colored particles may for example be measured by spectrocolorimetry and / or spectrophotocolorimetry.
Plus particulièrement, la composition cosmétique peut par exemple être du mascara, un produit pour le teint, comme un fond de teint, un ligneur (« eye-liner » en anglais), un fard à paupière ou à joue, un produit pour les lèvres comme un rouge à lèvre ou un brillant à lèvres (« lip-gloss » en anglais), du savon éventuellement liquide, du shampooing, du conditionneur, du vernis à ongle, de préférence du fard à paupières, des produits pour le teint ou des produits pour les lèvres. La composition cosmétique peut se présenter sous forme de lotion monophasique ou biphasique, d'émulsion eau dans l'huile ou huile dans l'eau, de gel, de stick ou de crème. More particularly, the cosmetic composition may for example be mascara, a product for the complexion, such as a foundation, a liner ("eyeliner" in English), an eyeshadow or cheek, a product for the lips as a lipstick or a lip gloss ("lip-gloss" in English), possibly liquid soap, shampoo, conditioner, nail polish, preferably eye shadow, complexion products or lip products. The cosmetic composition may be in the form of a lotion monophasic or biphasic, emulsion water in oil or oil in water, gel, stick or cream.
La composition de maquillage a de préférence une couvrance supérieure ou égale 10, notamment supérieure ou égale 15, voire de préférence supérieure ou égale à 40, de préférence supérieure ou égale à environ 45, en particulier supérieure ou égale à environ 50, notamment supérieure ou égale à environ 60, plus particulièrement supérieure ou égale à environ 80, notamment variant de 90 à 100, voire d'environ 100. La couvrance correspond à la capacité de la composition de maquillage à « masquer la peau » / à « cacher les imperfections ».  The makeup composition preferably has a coverage greater than or equal to 10, in particular greater than or equal to 15, even preferably greater than or equal to 40, preferably greater than or equal to about 45, in particular greater than or equal to about 50, especially greater than equal to about 60, more particularly greater than or equal to about 80, in particular ranging from 90 to 100, or even about 100. Coverage corresponds to the ability of the makeup composition to "mask the skin" / to "hide the imperfections ".
La couvrance des compositions est mesurée à épaisseur finie de 50 μηι pour les compositions liquides à 25°C à appliquer sur les lèvres, notamment les rouges à lèvres liquides, brillants à lèvres liquides et baumes à lèvres liquides, et à épaisseur de 150 μηι pour les fards à paupières, les fonds de teint liquides, les mascaras et autres produits de maquillage liquides non destinés à être appliqués sur les lèvres. La composition est étalée sur des cartes de contraste noir mat et blanc mat, par exemple de marque LENETA Form WPI pour la carte noir mat et Leneta IA pour la carte blanc mat. L'application peut s'effectuer avec un étaleur automatique. Les mesures s'effectuent sur les compositions ainsi étalées. Des spectres de réflectance sont acquis à l'aide d'un spectrocolorimètre MINOLTA 3700-d (géométrie de mesure diffuse et observation D65/100, mode composante spéculaire exclue, petite ouverture (CREISS)) sur les fonds noir et blanc. Les spectres sont exprimés en coordonnées colorimétriques dans l'espace CIELab76 au sens de la Commission Internationale de l'Eclairage selon la recommandation 15:2004. Le contraste ratio, ou couvrance, est calculé en faisant la moyenne arithmétique de Y sur fond noir, divisée par la valeur moyenne de Y sur fond blanc, multiplié par 100. The coverage of the compositions is measured at a finite thickness of 50 μηι for liquid compositions at 25 ° C. to be applied to the lips, in particular liquid lipsticks, liquid lip glosses and liquid lip balms, and at a thickness of 150 μηι for eye shadows, liquid foundations, mascaras and other liquid make-up products not intended to be applied to the lips. The composition is spread on matt black and matt white contrast cards, for example LENETA Form WPI for the matte black card and Leneta IA for the matte white card. The application can be performed with an automatic spreader. The measurements are carried out on the compositions thus spread. Reflectance spectra are acquired using a MINOLTA 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (diffuse measurement geometry and observation D65 / 10 0 , specular component excluded mode, small aperture (CREISS)) on the black and white backgrounds. The spectra are expressed in colorimetric coordinates in the CIELab76 space within the meaning of the International Commission on Illumination according to Recommendation 15: 2004. The contrast ratio, or coverage, is calculated by averaging Y on a black background, divided by the average value of Y on a white background, multiplied by 100.
Les expressions « compris entre ... et ... », « compris de ... à ... » et « allant de ... à ... » doivent se comprendre bornes incluses, sauf si le contraire est spécifié. The expressions "between ... and ...", "from ... to ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive, unless otherwise specified.
Les exemples ci-après illustrent l'invention sans en limiter la portée. Exemple 1 : Influence du traitement d'un pigment par un additif améliorant sa dispersibilité et du broyage sur la qualité de la dispersion pigmentaire The examples below illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. EXAMPLE 1 Influence of the Treatment of a Pigment by an Additive Improving its Dispersibility and Crushing on the Quality of the Pigment Dispersion
Différentes dispersions pigmentaires (pigments blanc, noir, jaune et rouge) dans la glycérine ont été préparées avec des compositions indiquées dans le tableau 1 . L'additif utilisé pour améliorer la dispersibilité des pigments en phase aqueuse est l'acide phytique. Various pigment dispersions (white, black, yellow and red pigments) in glycerine were prepared with compositions shown in Table 1. The additive used to improve the dispersibility of the pigments in the aqueous phase is phytic acid.
• Préparation d'une dispersion 1 de pigments traités et non broyés Preparation of a dispersion 1 of treated and unmilled pigments
Une dispersion de pigments blanc, noir, jaune et rouge traités avec de l'acide phytique en surface dans de la glycérine a été préparée avec une proportion en poids pigments/glycérine de 1/1 en suivant les compositions indiquées au tableau 1 . A dispersion of white, black, yellow and red pigments treated with surface phytic acid in glycerin was prepared with a weight ratio of 1: 1 pigments / glycerin according to the compositions shown in Table 1.
Tableau 1 : Composition de la dispersion pigmentaire comprenant des pigments traités  Table 1: Composition of the pigment dispersion comprising treated pigments
Sous agitation à l'hélice (Ika), les pigments ont été incorporés dans la glycérine. L'agitation a été maintenue 30 min à 600 t/min. While stirring with the helix (Ika), the pigments were incorporated into the glycerine. Stirring was maintained for 30 minutes at 600 rpm.
La dispersion pigmentaire obtenue était lisse, brillante, fluide. Sa viscosité à 25°C était de 7,32 Pa.s à une vitesse de 10 tours par minutes et à module 4, pendant 30s, torque 12,2.  The pigment dispersion obtained was smooth, shiny, fluid. Its viscosity at 25 ° C was 7.32 Pa.s at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4, for 30s, torque 12.2.
La dispersion a été placée entre deux plaques de verre. Des points étaient alors visibles. La couleur se développe entre la plaque de verre. • Préparation d'une dispersion 2 de pigments traités et broyés The dispersion was placed between two glass plates. Points were then visible. The color develops between the glass plate. • Preparation of a dispersion 2 of treated and milled pigments
La composition de la dispersion pigmentaire est également celle du tableau 1 .The composition of the pigment dispersion is also that of Table 1.
Le protocole suivant a été suivi : Dans un bêcher, sous agitation à l'hélice à 600 tours par minute pendant 30 min, les pigments traités ont été incorporés progressivement à la glycérine. Le mélange a alors été broyé au broyeur tricylindres (EXAKT 50i) avec trois passages consécutifs dans le broyeur. Ce broyage correspond à l'étape b) définie dans la demande. The following protocol was followed: In a beaker, with stirring at the propeller at 600 rpm for 30 min, the treated pigments were gradually incorporated into the glycerine. The mixture was then milled on a three-roll mill (EXAKT 50i) with three consecutive passes through the mill. This grinding corresponds to step b) defined in the application.
La dispersion pigmentaire obtenue était lisse, brillante, fluide. Sa viscosité à 25°C était de 5.46 Pa.s à une vitesse de 10 tours par minutes et à module 4, pendant 30s, torque 2,9.  The pigment dispersion obtained was smooth, shiny, fluid. Its viscosity at 25 ° C was 5.46 Pa.s at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4, for 30s, torque 2.9.
Elle a été placée entre deux plaques de verre et apparaissait homogène, sans amas/agglomérat de pigment/points de couleur. La couleur est restée stable.  It was placed between two glass plates and appeared homogeneous, without clumps / pigment agglomerate / color dots. The color has remained stable.
• Préparation d'une dispersion 3 de pigments non traités non broyés • Preparation of a dispersion 3 of untreated untreated pigments
Une dispersion de pigments blanc, noir, jaune et rouge non traités dans de la glycérine a été préparée avec une proportion en poids pigments/glycérine de 1 /1 en suivant les compositions indiquées au tableau 2. A dispersion of untreated white, black, yellow and red pigments in glycerine was prepared with a weight ratio of 1: 1 pigments / glycerin according to the compositions shown in Table 2.
traités  treated
Sous agitation à l'hélice (Ika), les pigments ont été incorporés dans la glycérine. L'agitation a été maintenue 30 min à 600 t/min. La dispersion pigmentaire obtenue était lisse, brillante, épaisse. Sa viscosité à 25°C à une vitesse de 10 tours par minutes et à module 4, pendant 30s, était trop importante pour être mesurée avec le dispositif susmentionné. Elle a été placée entre deux plaques de verre. Des points blancs, noirs et rouges ont été observés. La couleur se développe entre la plaque de verre. While stirring with the helix (Ika), the pigments were incorporated into the glycerine. Stirring was maintained for 30 minutes at 600 rpm. The pigment dispersion obtained was smooth, glossy, thick. Its viscosity at 25 ° C. at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4 for 30 seconds was too great to be measured with the aforementioned device. She was placed between two glass plates. White, black and red dots were observed. The color develops between the glass plate.
• Préparation d'une dispersion 4 de pigments non traités et broyés • Preparation of a dispersion 4 of untreated and crushed pigments
La composition de la dispersion pigmentaire est également celle du tableau 2.The composition of the pigment dispersion is also that of Table 2.
Le protocole suivant a été suivi : Dans un bêcher, sous agitation à l'hélice à 600 tours par minute pendant 30 min, les pigments non traités ont été incorporés progressivement à la glycérine. Le mélange a alors été broyé au broyeur tricylindres (EXAKT 50i) avec trois passages consécutifs dans le broyeur. Ce broyage correspond à l'étape b) définie dans la demande. The following protocol was followed: In a beaker, with stirring at the propeller at 600 rpm for 30 min, the untreated pigments were gradually incorporated into the glycerine. The mixture was then milled on a three-roll mill (EXAKT 50i) with three consecutive passes through the mill. This grinding corresponds to step b) defined in the application.
La viscosité de la dispersion obtenue à 25°C à une vitesse de 10 tours par minutes et à module 4, pendant 30s, était trop importante pour être mesurée avec le dispositif susmentionné.  The viscosity of the dispersion obtained at 25 ° C. at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4 for 30 seconds was too great to be measured with the aforementioned device.
Les viscosités des dispersions et les distributions de taille des particules de pigments sont fournies au tableau 3 ci-dessous. Viscosity of the dispersions and size distributions of the pigment particles are provided in Table 3 below.
Tableau 3 : Viscosités des dispersions et les distributions de taille des particules de pigments  Table 3: Viscosities of dispersions and particle size distributions of pigments
La granulométrie a été mesurée par diffraction laser à l'aide d'un granulomètre Modèle HORIBA LA-960S.  The particle size was measured by laser diffraction using a HORIBA Model LA-960S granulometer.
Ces exemples montrent que le traitement du pigment avec l'acide phytique et le broyage permettent de fluidifier la dispersion pigmentaire et d'améliorer la dispersion du pigment dans la dispersion. La dispersion la plus satisfaisante est celle obtenue à partir de pigments traités acide phytique et broyée. Plus la qualité de la dispersion est importante, plus les particules préparées à partir de la dispersion peuvent avoir une teneur élevée en pigment. These examples show that the treatment of the pigment with phytic acid and grinding makes it possible to thin the pigment dispersion and to improve the dispersion of the pigment in the dispersion. The most satisfactory dispersion is that obtained from treated phytic acid and ground pigments. The higher the quality of the dispersion, the more particles prepared from the dispersion can have a high pigment content.
Exemple 2 : Préparation de particules colorées comprenant un cœur liquide et une enveloppe à base d'alginate gélifié Example 2 Preparation of Colored Particles Comprising a Liquid Heart and a Gelled Alginate-Based Envelope
Des pigments blanc, jaune, noir et rouge prétraités à l'acide phytique ont été utilisés pour préparer des particules colorées à teneur élevée en pigments. White, yellow, black and red pigments pretreated with phytic acid were used to prepare color particles with high pigment content.
• Préparation d'une dispersion pigmentaire • Preparation of a pigment dispersion
Une dispersion de pigments blanc, noir, jaune et rouge traités avec de l'acide phytique en surface dans de la glycérine a été préparée avec une proportion en poids pigments/glycérine de 1/1 en suivant les compositions indiquées au tableau 1 de l'exemple 1 . A dispersion of white, black, yellow and red pigments treated with surface phytic acid in glycerine was prepared with a weight ratio of 1: 1 pigments / glycerin according to the compositions shown in Table 1 of the present invention. example 1.
La composition de la dispersion pigmentaire est également celle dudit tableau The composition of the pigment dispersion is also that of said table
1 . 1.
Le protocole suivant a été suivi : Dans un bêcher, sous agitation à l'hélice à 500 tours par minute pendant 1 min, les pigments traités ont été incorporés progressivement dans 30 g de glycérine. Le mélange était très visqueux.  The following protocol was followed: In a beaker, with stirring at the helix at 500 rpm for 1 min, the treated pigments were gradually incorporated into 30 g of glycerine. The mixture was very viscous.
Il a alors été broyé au broyeur tricylindres (EXAKT 50i) avec trois passages consécutifs dans le broyeur. Ce broyage correspond à l'étape b) définie dans la demande. Le broyeur a alors été nettoyé avec les 20 g de glycérine restante pour obtenir les pigments traités dans de la glycérine. La granulométrie mesurée par diffraction laser à l'aide d'un granulomètre Modèle HORIBA LA-960S était de D10 : 0.42 - D50 : 1 .49 - D90 : 0.68.  It was then crushed using a three-roll mill (EXAKT 50i) with three consecutive passes through the mill. This grinding corresponds to step b) defined in the application. The mill was then cleaned with the remaining 20 g of glycerin to obtain the glycerin-treated pigments. The particle size measured by laser diffraction using a HORIBA Model LA-960S particle size analyzer was D10: 0.42 - D50: 1 .49 - D90: 0.68.
La dispersion pigmentaire obtenue était lisse, brillante, très visqueuse. Sa viscosité à 25°C était de 5,46 Pa.s à une vitesse de 10 tours par minutes et à module 4, pendant 30s, torque 13,3.  The pigment dispersion obtained was smooth, glossy, very viscous. Its viscosity at 25 ° C was 5.46 Pa.s at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4, for 30s, torque 13.3.
Des particules colorées ont alors été formulées en utilisant un procédé millifluidique à l'image de celui décrit dans la demande WO 2010/063937, à partir notamment d'une solution comprenant de la glycérine (utilisée comme liant lors du broyage), les pigments prétraités broyés obtenus ci-dessus, des conservateurs et un gel d'acide hyaluronique. • Préparation d'un gel d'acide hyaluronique Colored particles were then formulated using a millifluidic process similar to that described in the application WO 2010/063937, especially from a solution comprising glycerin (used as a binder during grinding), the pretreated pigments. milled obtained above, preservatives and a hyaluronic acid gel. • Preparation of a hyaluronic acid gel
Un gel d'acide hyaluronique ayant la composition précisée au tableau 4 a été préparé. A hyaluronic acid gel having the composition specified in Table 4 was prepared.
Tableau 4 : Composition du gel d'acide hyaluronique  Table 4: Composition of the hyaluronic acid gel
Le protocole suivant a été suivi : Dans un bêcher ont été mélangés l'eau distillée et les conservateurs. L'acide hyaluronique a alors été incorporé progressivement en pluie fine sous agitation à l'hélice (appareil Ika Eurostar 60). L'agitation a été maintenu jusqu'à obtention d'un gel transparent, homogène. Sa viscosité à 25°C était de 2,1 Pa.s à une vitesse de 10 tours par minutes et à module 4, pendant 30s, torque 3,5 mesurée avec un appareil Brookfield modèle Viscosimètre LVDV2T. The following protocol was followed: In a beaker were mixed distilled water and preservatives. The hyaluronic acid was then gradually incorporated into fine rain with stirring with the propeller (Ika Eurostar 60 apparatus). Stirring was maintained until a transparent, homogeneous gel was obtained. Its viscosity at 25 ° C was 2.1 Pa.s at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4, for 30s, torque 3.5 measured with a Brookfield model Viscosimeter LVDV2T apparatus.
• Incorporation de la dispersion pigmentaire dans le gel d'acide hyaluronique Incorporation of the pigment dispersion into the hyaluronic acid gel
Tableau 5 : Composition du ge d'acide hyaluronique comprenant la dispersion pigmentaire. • Préparation de particules colorées en mettant en œuvre les étapes C3a) àTable 5: Hyaluronic acid composition comprising the pigment dispersion. • Preparation of colored particles by implementing steps C3a) to
C3e). C3e).
Un mélange (= mélange A) de 54% en poids de gel d'acide hyaluronique pigmenté obtenu et de 46% en poids de gel d'acide hyaluronique non pigmenté ayant la composition indiquée au tableau 4, a été utilisé comme première solution liquide dans le procédé décrit dans la demande WO 2010/063937.  A mixture (= mixture A) of 54% by weight of pigmented hyaluronic acid gel obtained and 46% by weight of unpigmented hyaluronic acid gel having the composition indicated in Table 4, was used as the first liquid solution in the process described in WO 2010/063937.
Le procédé de préparation de capsules repose (i) sur un procédé millifluidique à l'image de celui décrit dans la demande WO 2010/063937 et ainsi (ii) sur la mise en œuvre des trois solutions suivantes :  The method for preparing capsules is based on (i) a millifluidic process similar to that described in application WO 2010/063937 and thus (ii) on the implementation of the following three solutions:
- le mélange A comme première solution liquide destinée à former le cœur des particules,  the mixture A as the first liquid solution intended to form the core of the particles,
- une solution aqueuse à 3% en poids d'alginate de sodium comme deuxième solution liquide destinée à former l'enveloppe gélifiée des particules, et an aqueous solution containing 3% by weight of sodium alginate as the second liquid solution intended to form the gelled envelope of the particles, and
- une troisième solution figurant un bain de calcium dédiée à gélifier la deuxième solution et ainsi permettre la formation de l'enveloppe gélifiée des particules. a third solution representing a calcium bath dedicated to gel the second solution and thus allow the formation of the gelled envelope of the particles.
Composition du bain de calcium Composition of the calcium bath
Les débits considérés au niveau du dispositif millifluidique sont : The flows considered at the level of the millifluidic device are:
Débit  Debit
Solution  Solution
(en ml/h)  (in ml / h)
première solution 17,5  first solution 17.5
deuxième solution 5 Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, les particules peuvent être ensuite stockées/conservées dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, notamment un gel aqueux suspensif tel que décrit ci-après. second solution 5 According to a particular embodiment, the particles may then be stored / stored in a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a suspending aqueous gel as described below.
Tableau 6 : proportion massique en pigment dans les particules colorées obtenues  Table 6: mass proportion of pigment in the colored particles obtained
Les particules colorées obtenues comprenaient des proportions massiques très importantes de pigments (entre 13 et 21 % massique en pigment), ce qui les rend particulièrement aptes à être introduites dans des compositions de maquillage, et tout particulièrement de fond de teint. • Préparation d'une composition de maquillage The colored particles obtained included very large mass proportions of pigments (between 13 and 21% by mass of pigment), which makes them particularly suitable for being introduced into make-up compositions, and especially to make-up foundations. • Preparation of a makeup composition
Des compositions de maquillage comprenant 55% en poids de particules colorées obtenues ont été préparées. Makeup compositions comprising 55% by weight of colored particles obtained were prepared.
Tableau 7 : proportion massique en pigment dans les compositi maquillage préparées  Table 7: mass proportion of pigment in prepared make-up compositions
Les compositions ont avantageusement une teneur élevée en pigment, ce qui les rend adaptées à des applications maquillages, et tout particulièrement de fond de teint. The compositions advantageously have a high content of pigment, which makes them suitable for makeup applications, and especially foundation.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Particule comprenant au moins 3% en poids de pigment(s), généralement au moins 5% en poids de pigment(s), notamment au moins 10% en poids de pigment(s), typiquement au moins 13% en poids de pigment(s), par rapport au poids de ladite particule. 1. Particle comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment (s), generally at least 5% by weight of pigment (s), in particular at least 10% by weight of pigment (s), typically at least 13% by weight of pigment (s), based on the weight of said particle.
2. Particule selon la revendication 1 , dans laquelle le diamètre de ladite particule est compris de 0,1 mm à 10 mm, notamment de 0,1 mm à 7 mm, de préférence de 0,2 mm à 5 mm, typiquement de 0,3 mm à 3 mm, en particulier de 0,4 mm à 2,5 mm, par exemple de 0,5 à 2 mm. 2. Particle according to claim 1, wherein the diameter of said particle is from 0.1 mm to 10 mm, in particular from 0.1 mm to 7 mm, preferably from 0.2 mm to 5 mm, typically from 0 to 10 mm. , 3 mm to 3 mm, in particular from 0.4 mm to 2.5 mm, for example from 0.5 to 2 mm.
3. Particule selon la revendication 1 ou 2, choisie parmi les particules pleines ou les particules de type cœur/écorce. 3. Particle according to claim 1 or 2, selected from solid particles or particles of the heart / bark type.
4. Particule selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, comprenant un cœur liquide ou au moins en partie gélifié ou au moins en partie thixotrope et une enveloppe, de préférence gélifiée, encapsulant totalement ledit cœur, ledit cœur étant monophasique ou comportant une goutte intermédiaire d'une phase intermédiaire, la phase intermédiaire étant placée au contact de l'enveloppe, et au moins une, de préférence une unique, goutte interne d'une phase interne disposée dans la goutte intermédiaire. 4. Particle according to any one of claims 1 to 3, comprising a liquid core or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a shell, preferably gelled, completely encapsulating said core, said core being monophasic or having a intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the envelope, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an inner phase disposed in the intermediate drop.
5. Série de particules, dans laquelle au moins une particule comprend au moins 3% en poids de pigment(s), généralement au moins 5% en poids de pigment(s), notamment au moins 10% en poids de pigment(s), typiquement au moins 13% en poids de pigment(s), par rapport au poids de ladite particule. 5. Series of particles, in which at least one particle comprises at least 3% by weight of pigment (s), generally at least 5% by weight of pigment (s), in particular at least 10% by weight of pigment (s) typically at least 13% by weight of pigment (s), based on the weight of said particle.
6. Série de particules selon la revendication 5, dans laquelle le diamètre moyen des particules est compris de 0,1 mm à 10 mm, notamment de 0,1 mm à 7 mm, de préférence de 0,2 mm à 5 mm, typiquement de 0,3 mm à 3 mm, en particulier de 0,4 mm à 2,5 mm, par exemple de 0,5 à 2 mm. The series of particles according to claim 5, wherein the average particle diameter is from 0.1 mm to 10 mm, especially from 0.1 mm to 7 mm, preferably from 0.2 mm to 5 mm, typically from 0.3 mm to 3 mm, in particular from 0.4 mm to 2.5 mm, for example from 0.5 to 2 mm.
7. Série de particules selon la revendication 5 ou 6, dans laquelle le coefficient de variation des diamètres des particules est inférieur à 10%, de préférence inférieur à 5%. 7. A series of particles according to claim 5 or 6, wherein the coefficient of variation of the particle diameters is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%.
8. Série de particules selon l'une quelconque des revendications 5 à 7, dans laquelle lesdites particules sont des particules pleines ou des particules de type cœur/écorce. A series of particles as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 7, wherein said particles are solid particles or core / shell particles.
9. Série de particules selon l'une quelconque des revendications 5 à 8, dans laquelle lesdites particules comprennent un cœur liquide ou au moins en partie gélifié ou au moins en partie thixotrope et une enveloppe, de préférence gélifiée, encapsulant totalement ledit cœur, ledit cœur étant monophasique ou comportant une goutte intermédiaire d'une phase intermédiaire, la phase intermédiaire étant placée au contact de l'enveloppe, et au moins une goutte interne d'une phase interne disposée dans la goutte intermédiaire. 9. A series of particles according to any one of claims 5 to 8, wherein said particles comprise a liquid core or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic and an envelope, preferably gelled, completely encapsulating said heart, said heart being monophasic or having an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the envelope, and at least one internal drop of an internal phase disposed in the intermediate drop.
10. Série de particules selon l'une quelconque des revendications 5 à 9, dans laquelle lesdites particules comprennent en outre au moins un agent gélifiant, notamment thermosensible. 10. Series of particles according to any one of claims 5 to 9, wherein said particles further comprise at least one gelling agent, including heat-sensitive.
11. Série de particules selon l'une quelconque des revendications 5 à 10, dans laquelle lesdites particules comprennent en outre au moins une charge à effet flouteur. 11. A series of particles as claimed in any one of claims 5 to 10, wherein said particles further comprise at least one blooming filler.
12. Série de particules selon l'une quelconque des revendications 5 à 1 1 , dans laquelle lesdites particules comprennent en outre au moins un agent colorant différent dudit ou desdits pigment(s), notamment au moins une nacre. 12. Series of particles according to any one of claims 5 to 11, wherein said particles further comprise at least one dye agent different from said pigment (s), including at least one mother-of-pearl.
13. Composition comprenant au moins une particule selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, ou comprenant une série de particules selon l'une quelconque des revendications 5 à 12. 13. Composition comprising at least one particle according to any one of claims 1 to 4, or comprising a series of particles according to any one of claims 5 to 12.
14. Composition, notamment cosmétique, comprenant au moins une particule selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, ou comprenant une série de particules selon l'une quelconque des revendications 5 à 12, en association avec un milieu physiologiquement acceptable. 14. Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising at least one particle according to any one of claims 1 to 4, or comprising a series of particles according to any one of claims 5 to 12, in association with a physiologically acceptable medium.
15. Composition selon la revendication 13 ou 14, ladite composition étant une composition de maquillage, en particulier de fond de teint. 15. The composition of claim 13 or 14, said composition being a makeup composition, in particular foundation.
16. Procédé non thérapeutique de traitement cosmétique d'une matière kératinique, notamment de maquillage et/ou de soin, de préférence de maquillage, en particulier de la peau, des lèvres ou des cheveux, comprenant au moins une étape d'application sur ladite matière kératinique d'au moins une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 13 à 15. 16. Non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material, in particular a make-up and / or a care product, preferably a make-up product, in particular a skin, lips or hair, comprising at least one application step on said keratinous material of at least one composition according to any one of claims 13 to 15.
EP18714775.6A 2017-03-30 2018-03-30 Dyed particles with a high pigment content Pending EP3600226A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1752731A FR3064469B1 (en) 2017-03-30 2017-03-30 COLORED PARTICLES WITH HIGH PIGMENT CONTENT
PCT/EP2018/058331 WO2018178353A1 (en) 2017-03-30 2018-03-30 Dyed particles with a high pigment content

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3600226A1 true EP3600226A1 (en) 2020-02-05

Family

ID=59153069

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP18714775.6A Pending EP3600226A1 (en) 2017-03-30 2018-03-30 Dyed particles with a high pigment content

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US11744784B2 (en)
EP (1) EP3600226A1 (en)
CN (1) CN110662527B (en)
FR (1) FR3064469B1 (en)
WO (1) WO2018178353A1 (en)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR3134716A1 (en) 2022-04-26 2023-10-27 Capsum Solid cosmetic makeup composition comprising at least one cavity

Family Cites Families (26)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3919110A (en) * 1968-12-23 1975-11-11 Champion Int Corp Colored organic synthetic pigments and method for producing same
EP0460149B1 (en) * 1989-10-25 1997-12-10 Avon Products, Inc. Pigmented cosmetic compositions and method of making same
FR2787995B1 (en) * 1998-12-30 2002-05-03 Oreal HYDROPHOBIC ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF COMPACT POWDER
FR2795000B1 (en) * 1999-06-18 2001-08-03 Oreal SOLID COMPOSITION WITH AQUEOUS CONTINUOUS PHASE COMPRISING A HYDROPHILIC GELLANT AND A PARTICULAR FILLER, USES
FR2808441B1 (en) 2000-05-04 2004-06-18 Oreal USE OF FIBERS IN A CARE OR MAKE-UP COMPOSITION FOR MATTIFYING THE SKIN
FR2827161B1 (en) * 2001-07-16 2004-12-03 Oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A PARTICLE DISPERSION
EP1413298B1 (en) * 2002-09-24 2007-11-21 Cognis IP Management GmbH Process for the manufacture of macrocapsules
AU2003271543A1 (en) 2002-11-07 2004-06-07 Bosch Rexroth Ag Double-circuit hydraulic system
FR2867675B1 (en) 2004-03-22 2006-06-02 Oreal COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING CONCAVED PARTICLES
US20060171909A1 (en) * 2005-02-03 2006-08-03 The Procter & Gamble Company Cosmetic compositions comprising colorants with low free dye
PT1903866E (en) * 2005-11-07 2016-06-09 Murty Pharmaceuticals Inc Improved delivery of tetrahydrocannabinol
EP2062946B1 (en) * 2007-08-13 2012-06-06 Procter & Gamble International Operations SA Dye-loaded particles
EP2025364A1 (en) * 2007-08-13 2009-02-18 Procter & Gamble International Operations SA. Compositions comprising dye-loaded particles
FR2939012B1 (en) * 2008-12-01 2015-03-27 Capsum PROCESS FOR MANUFACTURING A SERIES OF CAPSULES, AND ASSOCIATED SERIES OF CAPSULES
EP2277982B1 (en) * 2009-07-17 2012-01-18 Clariant Finance (BVI) Limited Color changing cleansing composition
FR2954104B1 (en) 2009-12-18 2012-03-09 Oreal W / O EMULSION COMPRISING EMULSIFYING SILICONE ELASTOMER AND VOLATILE LINEAR ALKANE
RU2012134466A (en) * 2010-01-11 2014-02-20 Элк Менеджмент Ллк COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING PIGMENT PARTICLES CONCLUDED IN COMPRESSED POLYMERIC MICROSPHERES, AND METHODS FOR PRODUCING THEM
FR2969907B1 (en) * 2010-12-31 2014-03-07 Capsum SERIES OF CAPSULES COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE INTERNAL PHASE DROP IN AN INTERMEDIATE PHASE DROP AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURING THE SAME
FR2972456B1 (en) * 2011-03-09 2014-02-14 Sensient Cosmetic Tech TREATED HYDROPHILIC PIGMENTS DISPERSIBLE IN A COSMETIC COMPOSITION
FR2973225B1 (en) * 2011-03-31 2013-08-30 Lvmh Rech PIGMENT PARTICLES
DE102011077298A1 (en) * 2011-06-09 2012-12-13 Evonik Degussa Gmbh Core-shell particles with a high content of glycerin, their preparation and use
AU2013331432B2 (en) * 2012-10-15 2017-03-02 Ultra Ink, Inc. Removable tattoo ink and the use thereof
BR112015011319A2 (en) * 2012-11-30 2017-07-11 Oreal color change composition
FR3025096B1 (en) 2014-08-28 2016-12-23 Oreal GEL / GEL COMPOSITION CONTAINING ANTI-TRANSPARENT ACTIVE INGREDIENT
FR3025103B1 (en) 2014-08-28 2018-03-09 Oreal GEL / GEL COMPOSITION COMPRISING A UV FILTER
FR3031306B1 (en) * 2015-01-05 2020-01-10 L'oreal COMPOSITION, IN PARTICULAR COSMETIC FOR MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE, COMPRISING A LIPOPHILIC CLAY, OF 1 TO 10% MICA WEIGHT, AND AT LEAST ONE NON-CYCLIC SILICONE OIL

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2018178353A1 (en) 2018-10-04
FR3064469B1 (en) 2020-10-09
CN110662527A (en) 2020-01-07
US20200188242A1 (en) 2020-06-18
CN110662527B (en) 2023-01-20
FR3064469A1 (en) 2018-10-05
US11744784B2 (en) 2023-09-05

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
EP1433460B1 (en) Make-up process for dark skin
EP1586296B1 (en) Cosmetic composition for application to the skin, lips and/or nails.
EP1588687B1 (en) Composition for use on the skin, lips and/or nails
FR2958154A1 (en) PROCESS FOR CARING AND / OR MAKE-UP WRINKLES
EP3681603A1 (en) Dispersion with a dispersed fatty phase, having a high pigment content
FR2967348A1 (en) COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR EYE CONTOUR
FR2848821A1 (en) Make-up foundation capable of increasing luminosity and saturation when applied to dark skin, useful for lightening dark skin
FR3063899A1 (en) COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A FATTY PHASE AND AQUEOUS PHASE IN THE FORM OF SOLID SPHERES
FR2866894A1 (en) NEW SURFACE TREATED POWDER
EP3727298B1 (en) Coloured aqueous particle dispersion
WO2018096262A1 (en) Film-forming composition based on pullulan, and uses thereof in cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, the skin and the lips
FR2858214A1 (en) COSMETIC BILOUCHE PRODUCT, USES THEREOF, AND MAKE-UP KIT CONTAINING THE SAME
EP3600226A1 (en) Dyed particles with a high pigment content
WO2018178365A1 (en) Dyed particles with a high pigment content
FR2848826A1 (en) Make-up foundation useful for lightening dark skin comprises at least one coloring agent such that the foundation has a defined homogenization power and covering power when applied to a contrast card
FR2794999A1 (en) Solid aqueous gel used for skin, keratinous material and mucous membranes, comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent(s) and a powder phase comprising deformable particles
FR2861883A1 (en) Contrast card useful for evaluating cosmetics comprises at least two colored zones corresponding to the average color of at least two facial regions of a panel of individuals
WO2023094406A1 (en) Macroscopic dispersion with a dispersed fatty phase having high cationic polymer and pigment content
WO2023094468A1 (en) Shell-free macroscopic dispersion with pigmented fatty phase
FR3114240A1 (en) Moisturizing solid composition
FR3134716A1 (en) Solid cosmetic makeup composition comprising at least one cavity
FR3114239A1 (en) Compact care and/or make-up powder
FR2939668A1 (en) Powdery composition, useful for makeup and/or care of skin, comprises powdery phase comprising filler and composite pigment comprising inorganic core, organic binder and partial coating of an organic dye
FR3133754A1 (en) Composition comprising ethyl cellulose, a mono-alcohol, a volatile hydrocarbon oil, a non-volatile alkane oil, a mono- or diester of fatty acid and polyglycerol and an alkyl benzoate
FR3114242A1 (en) Compact care and/or make-up powder

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: UNKNOWN

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: THE INTERNATIONAL PUBLICATION HAS BEEN MADE

PUAI Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase

Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012

STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: REQUEST FOR EXAMINATION WAS MADE

17P Request for examination filed

Effective date: 20190927

AK Designated contracting states

Kind code of ref document: A1

Designated state(s): AL AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK MT NL NO PL PT RO RS SE SI SK SM TR

AX Request for extension of the european patent

Extension state: BA ME

DAV Request for validation of the european patent (deleted)
DAX Request for extension of the european patent (deleted)
STAA Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent

Free format text: STATUS: EXAMINATION IS IN PROGRESS

17Q First examination report despatched

Effective date: 20230331