EP3454823A1

EP3454823A1 - Uv shielding composition with matte effects and excellent texture

Info

Publication number: EP3454823A1
Application number: EP17728279.5A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Tomomi SUGA
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2016-05-13
Filing date: 2017-04-28
Publication date: 2019-03-20
Also published as: WO2017195800A1; CN109069366B; CN109069366A; JP6851729B2; JP2017214293A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one organic UV filter; (b) at least one inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder; (c) at least one organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder; and (d) at least one hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder with an oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, and more preferably 200 ml/ 100 g or more. The composition according to the present invention can provide UV shielding effects based on the (a) organic UV filter(s), while it can provide matte appearance and excellent texture.

Description

DESCRIPTION

UV SHIELDING COMPOSITION WITH MATTE EFFECTS AND EXCELLENT

TEXTURE

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a composition including a combination of specific ingredients, in particular a cosmetic composition for the skin, as well as a cosmetic method using the same.

BACKGROUND ART

Many cosmetics include one or more UV filters in order to shield UV rays. In particular, skin cosmetics commonly include organic and/or inorganic UV filters for protecting the skin from UV rays. Since various types of damage to the skin such as wrinkles caused by UV rays are now well recognized, the need for UV care cosmetics has further increased.

However, organic UV filters make skin shiny. Shiny skin may emphasize the roughness on the skin. In other words, organic UV filters may make skin roughness such as pores and wrinkles more noticeable. Therefore, users of anti-UV products including organic UV filters would like anti-UV products to provide matte appearance.

At the same time, skin care products are required to have good texture such as good

spreadability, less filmy sensation, and moist sensation after application. There are some powders which have oil-absorbing effects. These powders are used in some skin care products. However, they are also known to provide squeaky feeling when the amount of the above powder(s) increases.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which can provide UV shielding effects based on organic UV filter(s), while it can provide matte appearance and excellent texture. The above objective can be achieved by a composition, comprising:

(a) at least one organic UV filter;

(b) at least one inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder;

(c) at least one organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder; and

(d) at least one hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder with an oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, and more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more.

The (a) organic UV filter may be lipophilic. The amount of the (a) organic UV filter in the composition according to the present invention may be from 3 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may be selected from the group consisting of hydrophobic silicas, especially silica silylate, and a mixture thereof. The amount of the (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5%> by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may be selected from the group consisting of polyamide (in particular Nylon-6) powders, powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, or of ethylene glycol

dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder may comprise cellulose, silica, silicate, perlite, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, or a derivative thereof, or a mixture thereof.

The amount of the (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01 to 20%» by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10%> by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one oil other than the (a) organic UV filter.

The amount of the (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20%> by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) water.

The amount of the (f) water in the composition according to the present invention may be from 20 to 80% by weight, preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 40 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin substance, preferably the skin, comprising applying to the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION

After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition which can provide UV shielding effects based on organic UV filters), while it can provide matte appearance and excellent texture.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention comprises:

(a) at least one organic UV filter;

(b) at least one inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder; (c) at least one organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder; and

(d) at least one hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder with an oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, and more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more. According to the present invention, the (a) organic UV filters) can be used to provide UV shielding effects although the (a) organic UV fHter(s) alone may have properties to make skin shiny.

Since the composition according to the present invention includes a combination of the above specific ingredients (b) to (d), it can provide matte appearance and excellent texture, although the composition includes the (a) organic UV filters).

The composition according to the present invention does not provide any squeaky feeling when the amount of the above ingredients (b) to (d) increases, due to a combination of the above carefully- selected specific ingredients (b) to (d).

If the composition according to the present invention further includes (e) oil(s) other than the (a) organic UV filter(s) and/or (f) water, good spreadability, less filmy sensation, and moist sensation after application may be improved furthermore. Thus, it is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an emulsion.

Hereafter, the composition according to the present invention will be described in a detailed manner. [Organic UV Filter] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one (a) organic UV filter. If two or more (a) organic UV filters are used, they may be the same or different, preferably the same.

The (a) organic UV filter used for the present invention may be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region. The (a) organic UV filter may be hydrophilic and/or lipophilic, and preferably lipophilic.

The (a) organic UV filter may be solid or liquid. The terms "solid" and "liquid" mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25°C under 1 atm.

The (a) organic UV filter can be selected from the group consisting of anthranilic compounds;

dibenzoylmethane compounds; cinnamic compounds; salicylic compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; β,β-diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds; benzimidazole compounds; imidazoline compounds; bis- benzoazolyl compounds; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) compounds;

methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds; benzoxazole compounds; screening polymers and screening silicones; dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds; and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made, as examples of the (a) organic UV filter(s), of those denoted below under their INCI names, and mixtures thereof.

- Anthranilic compounds: Menthyl anthranilate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan MA" by Haarmann and Reimer.

- Dibenzoylmethane compounds: Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol 1789" by Hoffmann-La Roche; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane. - Cinnamic compounds: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed in particular under the trademark "Parsol MCX" by Hoffmann-La Roche; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxy methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Haarmann and Reimer; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxy cinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.

- Salicylic compounds: Homosalate (homomentyl sahcylate), marketed under the trademark "Eusolex HMS" by Rona/EM Industries; ethylhexyl sahcylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan OS" by Haarmann and Reimer; glycol sahcylate; butyloctyl salicylate; phenyl salicylate;

dipropyleneglycol sahcylate, marketed under the trademark "Dipsal" by Scher; and TEA sahcylate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Heliopan TS" by Haarmann and Reimer.

- Camphor compounds, in particular, benzyhdenecamphor derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, marketed under the trademark "Eusolex 6300" by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SL" by Chimex; camphor benzalkonium methosulfate, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SO" by Chimex; terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SX" by Chimex; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, manufactured under the trademark "Mexoryl SW" by Chimex.

- Benzophenone compounds: Benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (Tetrahydroxybenzophenone), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul D50" by BASF; Benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4

(hydroxymethoxy benzophonene sulfonic acid), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (Sodium hydroxymethoxy benzophenone Sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenone); marketed under the trademark "Helisorb 11 " by Norquay; behzophenone-8, marketed under the trademark "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (Disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate), marketed under the trademark "Uvinul DS-49" by BASF; benzophenone- 12, and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2- hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (UVINUL A+ by BASF).

- β,β-Diphenylacrylate compounds: Octocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N539" by BASF; and Etocrylene, marketed in particular under the trademark "Uvinul N35" by BASF.

- Triazine compounds: Diethylhexyl butamido triazone, marketed under the trademark "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-amtoobenzalmdonate)-s-triazine, bis- ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine marketed under the trademark «TINOSORB S » by Ciba Geigy, and ethylhexyl triazone marketed under the trademark «UV1NUL Tl 50 » by BASF. - Benzotriazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)- 6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear; and those described in USP 5240975.

- Benzaknalonate compounds: Dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate, and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzaknalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, marketed under the trademark "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-LaRoche.

- Benzimidazole compounds, in particular, phenylbenzirnidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzirnidazole sulfonic acid, marketed in particular under the trademark "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, marketed under the trademark "Neo Hekopan AP" by

Haarmann and Reimer.

- Imidazoline compounds: Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzyhdene dioxoimidazoline propionate.

- Bis-benzoazolyl compounds: The derivatives as described in EP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No.

2,463,264.

- Para-aminobenzoic acid compounds: PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, Ethyl

dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, marketed in particular under the trademark "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, marketed under the trademark "Uvinul P25" by BASF. - Methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazol) compounds, such as 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H- benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methyl-phenol] marketed in the solid form under the trademark "Mixxim BB/200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(l,l,3,3- tetramethylbutyl)phenol] marketed in the micronized form in aqueous dispersion under the trademark "Tinosorb M" by BASF, or under the trademark "Mixxim BB/100" by Fairmount Chemical, and the derivatives as described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26,184 and EP-893,119, and

Drometrizole trisiloxane, marketed under the trademark "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie or "Mexoryl XL" by L'Oreal, as represented below.

- Benzoxazole compounds: 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2- emylhexyl)imino-l ,3,5- triazine, marketed under the trademark Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3 V.

- Screening polymers and screening silicones: The silicones described in WO 93/04665.

- Dimers derived from a-alkylstyrene: The dimers described in DE-19855649.

- 4,4-Diarylbutadiene compounds: l,l-<iicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

It is preferable that the (a) organic UV filter(s) be selected from the group consisting of:

butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, n-hex l 2- 4-diethylmino-2-h drox benzo l benzoate, 1 , 1 '- 1 ,4- i erazinedi l bis l - 2- 4-

The composition according to the present invention may comprise the (a) organic UV filter(s) in an amount of ranging from 3% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, more preferably ranging from 10% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably ranging from 10% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Inorganic Hydrophobic Oil- Absorbing Powder] The composition according to the present invention includes at least one (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil- absorbing powder. If two or more (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powders are used, they may be the same or different. The (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder is capable of absorbing (and/or adsorbing) an oil or a liquid fatty substance, for instance sebum (from the skin).

The (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder is in the form of particles. The (primary) particle size of the (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may be from 0.01 to 100 um, preferably from 0.05 to 70 um, and more preferably from 0.1 to 50 um. The (primary) particle size can be measured by, for example, extracting and measuring from a photograph image obtained by SEM and the like, using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer, and the like. It is preferable to use a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer. In this case, the (primary) particle size is the number-average (primary) particle size.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "hydrophobic" oil-absorbing powder means that said powder (or the particles) is individually dispersed in an oily phase in such manner that they do not form aggregates. This (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder can be present in a fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention, if the composition includes oily ingredient(s) which can form the fatty phase.

It is preferable that the (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder be a porous particle, in particular a porous spherical particle.

The oil-absorbing capacity of the (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder is not limited. It is preferable that the (b) inorganic hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder have an oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more, even more preferably 250 ml/100 g or more, and particularly preferably 300 ml/100 g or more.

The (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may have an oil-absorbing capacity ranging from 100 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 100 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 100 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g. Further, the (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may have an oil-absorbing capacity ranging from 150 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 150 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 150 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g. Furthermore, the (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may have an oil-absorbing capacity ranging from 200 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 200 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 200 ml/100 g to 1200 ml/100 g.

The amount of oil absorbed (and/or adsorbed) by the (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may be characterized by measuring the wet point according to the method described below. The oil- absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

The amount of the absorbed (and/or adsorbed) oil can be measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard ISO 787/5-1980. It corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder, by measuring the wet point. An amount m (in grams) of the (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder of between about 0.5 g and about 5 g (the amount depends on the density of the (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder, but typically 2 g) is placed on a glass plate and isononyl isononanoate is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of purified linseed oil, the isononyl isononanoate is incorporated into the (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder using a spatula, and addition of the isononyl isononanoate is continued until a conglomerate of isononyl isononanoate and powder has formed. At this point, the isononyl isononanoate is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula The addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used is then noted.

The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m. The (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder is of inorganic nature.

The (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may have at least one inorganic core and at least one hydrophobic coating. The hydrophobic coating may be formed by a hydrophobic treatment agent which may be chosen especially from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes, and mixtures thereof. The N-acylarnino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be duminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds mentioned previously especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

It is preferable that the (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder be selected from powders of hydrophobic silica, in particular hydrophobic silica silylate, and a mixture thereof.

The hydrophobic silica, in particular silica silylate, may be based on silica aerogels which are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical C0₂. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990. The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may exhibit

a specific surface per unit of weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m²/g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m²/g, and more preferably from 600 to 800 m²/g, and/or

a size, expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 um, preferably from 1 to 1000 um, more preferably from 1 to 100 um, in particular from 1 to 30 um, more preferably from 5 to 25 um, more preferably from 5 to 20 um, and even more preferably from 5 to 15 um. According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may exhibit a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 um, preferably from 5 to 25 um, more preferably from 5 to 20 um, and even more preferably from 5 to 15 um.

The specific surface per unit of weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D). The BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles under consideration.

The sizes of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer of MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may exhibit a specific surface per unit of weight (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g and a size, expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 5 to 20 um, and preferably from 5 to 15 um.

The silica aerogel particles can advantageously exhibit a packed density (r) ranging from 0.04 g cm³ to 0.10 g/cm³, and preferably from 0.05 g/cm³ to 0.08 g/cm .

In the context of the present invention, this density, known as the packed density, can be assessed according to the following protocol:

40 g of powder are poured into a graduated measuring cylinder;

the measuring cylinder is then placed on the Stav 2003 device from Stampf Volumeter;

the measuring cylinder is subsequently subjected to a series of 2500 packing actions (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between 2 consecutive tests is less than 2%); and

the final volume Vf of packed powder is then measured directly on the measuring cylinder. The packed density is determined by the ratio w/V f, in this instance 40/Vf (V f being expressed in cm³ and w in g).

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may exhibit a specific surface per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m²/cm³, preferably from 10 to 50 m²/cm³, and more preferably from 15 to 40 m²/cm³. The specific surface per unit of volume is given by the relationship: Sy = Sw x p; where p is the packed density expressed in g/cm³ and Sw is the specific surface per unit of weight expressed in m²/g, as defined above.

The term "hydrophobic silica" is understood to mean any silica, the surface of which is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example, trimethylsilyl groups.

As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified at the surface by silylation, reference may be made to the document US 7470 725. Use will in particular be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified at the surface with trimethylsilyl groups. Examples of the (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder include fillers described below.

Silica powders that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 243 ml/100 g), precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax, such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax, and especially those sold under the name Acematt OR 412 by the company Evonik-Degussa (oil uptake equal to 398 ml/100 g), and silica silylate sold under the name of VM-2270 (oil uptake equal to 1040 ml/100 g) by the company Dow Corning.

It is more preferable to use, as the (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder, silica silylate sold under the name VM-2270 by Dow Corning, the particles of which exhibit an average size ranging from 5 to 15 um and a specific surface per unit of weight ranging from 600 to 800 m²/g.

The (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight, and even more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Organic Hydrophobic Oil- Absorbing Powder] The composition according to the present invention includes at least one (c) organic hydrophobic oil- absorbing powder. If two or more (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powders are used, they may be the same or different.

The (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder is capable of absorbing (and/or adsorbing) an oil or a liquid fatty substance, for instance sebum (from the skin).

The (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder is in the form of particles. The (primary) particle size of the (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may be from 0.01 to 100 um, preferably from 0.05 to 70 um, and more preferably from 0.1 to 50 um. The (primary) particle size can be measured by, for example, extracting and measuring from a photograph image obtained by SEM and the like, using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer, and the like. It is preferable to use a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer. In this case, the (primary) particle size is the number-average (primary) particle size. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "hydrophobic" oil-absorbing powder means that said powder (or the particles) is individually dispersed in an oily phase in such manner that they do not form aggregates.

This (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder can be present in a fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention, if the composition includes oily ingredient(s) which can form the fatty phase.

It is preferable that the (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder be a porous particle, in particular a porous spherical particle. According to another aspect of the present disclosure, the (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may have a BET specific surface area greater than or equal to 300 m²/g, for instance, greater than or equal to 500 m²/g, such as greater than or equal to 600 m²/g, and less than or equal to 1500 m²/g.

The oil-absorbing capacity of the (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder is not limited. It is preferable that the (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder have an oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more, even more preferably 250 ml/100 g or more, and particularly preferably 300 ml/100 g or more.

The (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may have an oil-absorbing capacity ranging from . 100 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 100 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 100 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g. Further, the (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may have an oil-absorbing capacity ranging from 150 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 150 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 150 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g. Furthermore, the (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may have an oil-absorbing capacity ranging from 200 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 200 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 200 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g. The amount of oil absorbed (and/or adsorbed) by the (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may be characterized by measuring the wet point according to the method described below. The oil- absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. The amount of the absorbed (and/or adsorbed) oil can be measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard ISO 787/5-1980. It corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed/adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder, by measuring the wet point.

An amount m (in grams) of the (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder of between about 0.5 g and about 5 g (the amount depends on the density of the (c) hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder, but typically 2 g) is placed on a glass plate and isononyl isononanoate is then added dropwise.

After addition of 4 to 5 drops of purified linseed oil, the isononyl isononanoate is incorporated into the (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder using a spatula, and addition of the isononyl isononanoate is continued until a conglomerate of isononyl isononanoate and powder has formed. At this point, the isononyl isononanoate is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula The addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used is then noted.

The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder is of organic nature. The (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may be chosen from the group consisting of polyamide (in particular Nylon-6) powders, powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of polyallyl

methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer; and a mixture thereof. The above material may be crosslinked. It may be preferable that the (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder be selected from powders of acrylic polymers, especially of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

The (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder may, where appropriate, be surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic treatment agent.

This hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen, for example, from:

- silicones, such as methicones, dimethicones;

- fatty acids, such as stearic acid;

- metallic soaps, such as aluminium dimyristate, aluminium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate;

- perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups;

- amino acids, N-acylated amino acids and their salts;

- lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; and

- mixtures thereof.

As used herein, the term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds cited above is understood to mean a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group comprising from 1 to 30, atoms, for example, from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

The N-acylated amino acids may comprise an acyl group comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhaxanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl and cocoyl group. The salts of these components may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

Examples of the (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder include fillers described below.

Acrylic polymer powders that may be mentioned include porous polymethyl methacrylate (ΊΝΟ name methyl methacrylate crosspolymer) such as the spheres sold under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Sensient, porous polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate spheres sold under the name Microsponge 5640 by the company Cardinal Health Technologies (oil uptake equal to 155 ml/100 g), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate aosslinked copolymer powders, especially those sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 from the company Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions (oil uptake equal to 656 ml/100 g), acrylonitrile/methyl methacrylate/vinylidene chloride copolymer sold under the name Expancel 551DE40D42 (oil uptake equal to 1040 ml/100 g) by the company Akzo Novel.

Polyamide powders that may be mentioned include nylon-6 powder, especially the product sold under the name Pomp610 by the company UBE Industries (oil uptake equal to 202 ml/100 g).

The (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10%) by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and even more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Hydrophilic Oil- Absorbing Powder]

The composition according to the present invention includes at least one (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder with an oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more. If two or more (d) hydrophilic oil- absorbing powders with an oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml/ 100 g or more are used, they may be the same or different.

The (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder is capable of absorbing (and/or adsorbing) an oil or a liquid fatty substance, for instance sebum (from the skin).

The (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder is in the form of particles. The (primary) particle size of the (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder may be from 0.01 to 100 um, preferably from 0.05 to 70 um, and more preferably from 0.1 to 50 um. The (primary) particle size can be measured by, for example, extracting and measuring from a photograph image obtained by SEM and the like, using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer, and the like. It is preferable to use a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer. In this case, the (primary) particle size is the number-average (primary) particle size. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic" oil-absorbing powder means that said powder (or the particles) is individually dispersed in an aqueous phase in such manner that they do not form aggregates.

The (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder has an oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more, and even more preferably 250 ml/100 g or more.

The (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder may have an oil-absorbing capacity ranging from 100 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 100 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 100 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g. Further, the (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder may have an oil- absorbing capacity ranging from 150 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 150 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 150 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g. Furthermore, the (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder may have an oil-absorbing capacity ranging from 200 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g, preferably from 200 ml/100 g to 800 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 200 ml/100 g to 500 ml/100 g.

The amount of oil absorbed (and/or adsorbed) by the (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder may be characterized by measuring the wet point according to the method described below. The oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.

The amount of the absorbed (and/or adsorbed) oil can be measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard ISO 787/5-1980. It corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed/adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder, by measuring the wet point.

An amount m (in grams) of the (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder of between about 0.5 g and about 5 g (the amount depends on the density of the (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder, but typically 2 g) is placed on a glass plate and isononyl isononanoate is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of purified linseed oil, the isononyl isononanoate is incorporated into the (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder using a spatula, and addition of the isononyl isononanoate is continued until a conglomerate of isononyl isononanoate and powder has formed. At this point, the isononyl isononanoate is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used is then noted.

The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.

The (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder may be of organic or inorganic nature.

The (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder having oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml/ 100 g or more may be chosen from celluloses, silicas, silicates; perlites; magnesium carbonate; magnesium hydroxide; and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder comprise at least one selected from the group consisting of cellulose, silica, silicate, perlite, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, and a derivative thereof, and a mixture thereof.

A person skilled in the art may select, among the following materials, a (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder with an oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, and more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more. According to one embodiment, a cellulose derivative may be chosen from cellulose esters and ethers.

The term "cellulose ester" means, in the text hereinabove and hereinbelow, a polymer consisting of an a (1-4) sequence of partially or totally esterified anhydroglucose rings, the esterification being obtained by reaction of all or only some of the free hydroxyl functions of the said anhydroglucose rings with a linear or branched carboxylic acid or carboxylic acid derivative (acid chloride or acid anhydride) containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Preferably, the cellulose ester results from the reaction of some of the free hydroxyl functions of the said rings with a carboxylic acid containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Advantageously, the cellulose esters are chosen from cellulose acetates, propionates, butyrates, isobutyrates, acetobutyrates and acetopropionates, and mixtures thereof.

The term "cellulose ether" means a polymer consisting of an a (1-4) sequence of partially etherified anhydroglucose rings, some of the free hydroxyl functions of the said rings being substituted with a radical -OR, R preferably being a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. The cellulose ethers are thus preferably chosen from cellulose alkyl ethers with an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as cellulose methyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutyl ethers.

Celluloses and their derivatives that may be mentioned include, for example, the following spherical cellulose particles marketed by Daito Kasei in Japan: Cellulobeads USF (oil uptake is 250 ml/100 g) with a particle size of 4 um (porous cellulose).

Silica powders that may be mentioned include porous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the names Sunsphere® H53 and Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 370 ml/100 g) by the company Asahi Glass; MSS-500-3H by the company Kobo; amorphous hollow silica particles, especially those sold under the name Silica Shells by the company Kobo (oil uptake equal to 550 ml/100 g); porous silica microsphere sold under the name of Sylysia 350 (oil uptake equal to 310 ml/100 g) by the company Fuji Silysia Chemical; and silica powder sold under the name of Finesil X35 (oil uptake equal to 380 ml/ 100 g)by the company Oriental Silycas. A silicate that may especially be mentioned is aluminum silicate which is sold under the name of Kyowaad® 700PEL (oil uptake equal to 195 ml/100 g) by the company Kyowa Chemical Industry.

A perlite powder that may especially be mentioned is the product sold under the name Optimat® 1430 OR and Optimat® 2550 OR by the company World Minerals (oil uptake equal to 240 ml/100 g).

A magnesium carbonate powder that may especially be mentioned is the product sold under the name Tipo Carbomagel® by the company Buschle & Lepper (oil uptake equal to 214 ml/100 g). A magnesium carbonate/magnesium hydroxide powder that may especially be mentioned is the product which is sold under the name of Mg Tube (oil uptake equal to 250-310 ml/100 g)by the company Nittesu Mining.

The (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder (s) with an oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from

0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and even more preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Oil]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one (e) oil other than the (a) organic UV filter. If two or more (e) oils are used, they may be the same or different. Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or nonvolatile. The (e) oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

The (e) oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof. As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.

As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides. The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C₁-C₂₆ aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C₄-C₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C₁-C₂₂ alcohols, and esters of

monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic, or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C₄-C₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy, or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.

Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2- ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C₆-C₃₀ and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides, or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₆- C₃₀ and preferably C₁₂-C₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate, and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose, or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, and oleostearates. An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2- ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2- ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl tiimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate), and glyceryl

tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,

decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid

polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group. These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll' s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non- volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile

Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia,

decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as

amethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and

tetratrimethylsilylpenteerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '-bis(2,2,2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 x 10^-6 m²/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91 , Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

Non- volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of

polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:

the Silbione^® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the Mirasil^® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;

the oils of the Mirasil^® series sold by the company Rhodia

the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm²/s; and

the Viscasil^® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.

The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:

in which

R₁ to R₁₀, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C₁-C₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably C₁-C₁₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably C₁-C₆ hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl radicals, and

m, n, p, and q are, independently of each other, integers of 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive,

with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.

Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:

the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia; the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;

the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;

certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, and SF 1265.

As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to Rio are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m=l in the above formula) is preferable. The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.

Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from:

- linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C₆-C₁₆ lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane, and isodecane; and

- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid

paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam®, and squalane.

As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.

The term "fatty" in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from C₁₂-C₂₀ alkyl and C₁₂-C₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

As examples of the fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol. Thus, the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₆-C₃₀ alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C₆-C₃₀ alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C₁₂-C₂₀ alcohols.

The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C₆-C₃₀ fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C₆-C₃₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C₁₂-C₂₀ fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C₁₆-C₂₀ fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C₁₆-C₂₀ fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.

As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the (e) oil be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 % to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The (e) oil can form a fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.

If the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion, the (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention can form dispersed fatty phases in the O/W emulsion. The fatty phase may include the (a) organic UV filter.

The amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10% to 50% by weight, preferably from 15% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 20% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Water]

The composition according to the present invention may include (f) water. If the composition according to the present invention includes the (f) water, the (f) water can form an aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.

If the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O W emulsion, the (f) water in the composition according to the present invention can form a continuous aqueous phase in the O/W emulsion.

The amount of the (f) water may be from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, more preferably from 40% to 60% by weight, and even more preferably from 40% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. [Other Ingredients]

The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.

The amount of the optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention. The optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, cationic, nonionic, or amphoteric polymers; anionic, cationic, nonionic, or amphoteric surfactants; inorganic UV filters; peptides and derivatives thereof; protein hydrolyzates; swelling agents and penetrating agents; agents for combating hair loss; anti-dandruff agents; natural or synthetic thickeners for oils; suspending agents; sequestering agents; opacifying agents; dyes; sunscreen agents; vitamins or provitamins;

fragrances; preserving agents, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the present invention may include one or several cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and butylene glycol; other polyols such as glycerol, sugar, and sugar alcohols; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ether, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, and monobutyl ethers. The organic solvents) may then be present in a concentration of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 20%> by weight, and more preferably from 1 % to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Form]

The form of the composition according to the present invention is not particularly limited, and may take various forms such as a W/O emulsion, an O/W emulsion, an aqueous gel, an aqueous solution, or the like. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention be in the form of an emulsion, and more preferably in the form of an O/W emulsion.

[Cosmetic Process]

The composition according to the present invention may preferably be used as a cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition may be any of skin cosmetics, hair cosmetics, makeup cosmetics, nail cosmetics, and cosmetics for use on mucosa such as lips, and the like, and is preferably a skin cosmetic.

In particular, the composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto a keratin substance such as the skin, scalp, and/or lips, preferably the skin. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process for the skin.

Since the composition according to the present invention includes at least one (a) organic UV filter, it can also function as a composition intended for absorbing ultraviolet light, and or for protecting a keratin substance especially of a human from ultraviolet radiation. It is well known in the art that protection of the keratin substance from ultraviolet radiation results in anti-ageing, anti-wrinkling, and moisturizing effects. Accordingly, the composition of the present invention can further constitute a composition intended for anti-ageing, anti- wrinkle, and/or moisturizing effects.

The cosmetic process or cosmetic use for a keratin substance such as the skin, according to the present invention comprises, at least, the step of applying onto the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention.

The cosmetic process or cosmetic use according to the present invention can provide anti-sebum effects or anti-shine effects due to any one of the ingredients (b) to (d) in the composition according to the present invention.

Since the composition according to the present invention includes at least one (a) organic UV filter, the cosmetic process or cosmetic use according to the present invention can also relate to a method of protecting a keratin substance from ultraviolet radiation comprising applying to the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention, as well as a method of absorbing ultraviolet light comprising applying the composition according to the present invention and subjecting the keratin substance to ultraviolet light. These methods can be defined as non-therapeutic methods,

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations in the field of the present invention.

[Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4]

The following compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4, shown in Table 1 , were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 at room temperature. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.

[Evaluations]

The compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were evaluated as follows.

(Matte Effect)

Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 was applied on a contrast card as a layer with a thickness of 100 μm, and was dried for 24 hours at room temperature.

0.4 ml of an artificial sebum/sweat composition was sprayed on the above layer on the contrast card, at room temperature. The formulation of the artificial sebum/sweat

composition is shown in Table 2 below.

The reflectance on the above layer after the spraying of the artificial sebum composition thereon was measured with a glossmeter (UNI GLOSS 60 plus, Konika Minolta) as a 60° gloss value. The amount of the artificial sebum composition sprayed on each of the above layers was the same as each other. A lower 60° gloss value shows better results.

The measured reflectance was categorized as follows.

Good (high matte effect): from 0 to 20

Poor (low matte effect): more than 20 to 40

Very Poor (no matte effect): more than 40 to 60 The results are shown in Table 1.

(Spreadability, Less Filmy Sensation and Moist Feeling after Application)

8 professional panelists evaluated "spreadability", "less filmy sensation", and "moist feeling after application" after the use of the same amount of each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4.

Each panelist took each composition in their hands, then applied it on their faces to evaluate "spreadability", "less filmy sensation", and "moist feeling after application" after the use of each composition, and rated it from 0 (very poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified in the following 3 categories based on the average of the rate.

Good: from 3.3 to 5.0

Poor: from 1.6 to less than 3.3

Very Poor: from 0 to less than 1.6 The results are shown in Table 1.

The composition according to Example 1 includes organic UV filters with inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder, organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder, and hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder with an oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, and therefore, it can provide UV shielding effects based on the organic UV filters, as well as matte appearance and excellent texture such as good spreadability, less filmy sensation, and moist sensation after application. On the other hand, the composition according to Comparative Example 1 lacks the hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder with an oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, and therefore, it cannot provide sufficient matte appearance and excellent texture.

The composition according to Comparative Example 2 lacks the inorganic hydrophobic oil- absorbing powder, and therefore, it cannot provide sufficient matte appearance.

The composition according to Comparative Example 3 lacks the organic hydrophobic oil- absorbing powder, and therefore, it cannot provide sufficient matte appearance. In addition, it cannot provide excellent spreadability.

The composition according to Comparative Example 4 lacks the inorganic hydrophobic oil- absorbing powder, the organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder, and the inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder, and therefore, it cannot provide sufficient matte appearance.

It is clear from the comparison of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-4 in Table 1 that a combination of (a) organic UV filter; (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder; (c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder; and (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder with an oil-absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more is necessary to prepare a composition which has UV shielding effects while it can provide matte appearance and excellent texture.

Claims

1. A composition, comprising:

(a) at least one organic UV filter;

(b) at least one inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder;

(c) at least one organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder; and

2. The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) organic UV filter is lipophilic.

3. The composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the amount of the (a) organic UV filter in the composition is from 3 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder is selected from the group consisting of hydrophobic silicas, especially silica silylate, and a mixture thereof.

5. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the amount of the

(b) inorganic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder in the composition is from 0.01 to 10%) by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the (c) organic

hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder is selected from the group consisting of polyamide (in particular Nylon-6) powders, powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol

dimethacrylate, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, or of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, and a mixture thereof.

7. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of the

(c) organic hydrophobic oil-absorbing powder in the composition is from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder comprises cellulose, silica, silicate, perlite, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, or a derivative thereof, or a mixture thereof.

9. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of the

(d) hydrophilic oil-absorbing powder in the composition is from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the composition further comprises (e) at least one oil other than the (a) organic UV filter.

11. The composition according to Claim 10, wherein the amount of the (e) oil in the composition is from 0.01 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, wherein the composition further comprises (f) water.

13. The composition according to Claim 12, wherein the amount of the (f) water in the composition is from 20 to 80% by weight, preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, and more preferably from 40 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

14. The composition according to Claim 12 or 13, wherein the composition is in the form of an emulsion.

15. A cosmetic process for a keratin substance, preferably skin, comprising applying to the keratin substance the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14.