CN100435779C - Skin care composition - Google Patents
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- CN100435779C CN100435779C CNB2004800261792A CN200480026179A CN100435779C CN 100435779 C CN100435779 C CN 100435779C CN B2004800261792 A CNB2004800261792 A CN B2004800261792A CN 200480026179 A CN200480026179 A CN 200480026179A CN 100435779 C CN100435779 C CN 100435779C
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Abstract
Disclosed is a skin care composition comprising: (a) from about 0.001% to about 5.0% of a hydrophilic gelling agent; (b) from about 0.001% to about 1.0% of a first nonionic surfactant system having a HLB value of 10 or more, preferably polysorbates; (c) from about 3% to about 30% of a lower alcohol; (d) from about 5% to about 40% of an oily component; and (e) water.
Description
The intersection ginseng person of related application
The priority that the application requires to be filed in 10 days U.S. Provisional Application of JIUYUE in 2003 60/501,804 and is filed in the U.S. Provisional Application 60/592,336 on July 29th, 2004.
Invention field
The present invention relates to a kind of skin care compositions, described compositions comprises: (a) hydrophilic gelling agent; (b) having the HLB value is 10 or the first bigger nonionic surfactant system; (c) a kind of lower alcohol; (d) a kind of oily components; (e) water.Compositions of the present invention provides less greasy feeling and/or the less sense of being clamminess to skin when comprising the oily components of increment.
Background of invention
Consumer obtainable many personal care products at present relates generally to health and/or the physical appearance that improves and/or keep skin.
Known additional oily components helps improving and/or keeping the health and/or the physical appearance of skin.This oily components is for example emollient, siloxanes and ultra-violet protecting agent.Skin care compositions comprises emollient and siloxanes so that flexibility, smoothness and additional iuntercellular lipoid to be provided to skin.The skin care compositions that comprises ultra-violet protecting agent prevents from horny layer excessively to be peeled off with skin texture change owing to being exposed to ultraviolet light.Yet the also known skin care compositions that comprises this oily components provides greasy feeling and/or the sense of being clamminess to skin, especially when compositions comprises this oily components of increment.
Oily components is included in the skin care compositions with emulsion and/or dispersion form usually.Known use surfactant makes oily components emulsifying and/or dispersion.When skin care compositions comprised the oily components of increment, usual way was to comprise the surfactant of increment with emulsifying and/or dispersion oily components.Yet the surfactant of increment provides greasy feeling and/or the sense of being clamminess equally.
For the consumer that prefers pure and fresh sensation, the above-mentioned greasy feeling and/or the sense of being clamminess are not expected.
Described based on preamble, need a kind of like this skin care compositions, it provides less greasy feeling and/or the less sense of being clamminess to skin when comprising the oily components of increment.
Can provide whole advantage of the present invention and beneficial effect without any prior art.
Summary of the invention
The present invention relates to a kind of skin care compositions, said composition comprises:
(a) about 0.001% to about 5.0% hydrophilic gelling agent;
(b) about 0.001% to about 1.0% the HLB value that has is 10 or the first bigger nonionic surfactant system, wherein said first surface activating agent system comprises one or more non-ionic surface active agents, and it is selected from polysorbate, the hydrogenant Oleum Ricini of polyoxyalkylene, the polyglycereol Arrcostab with C10-20 alkyl substituent, polyoxyethylene sterol and polyethylene glycol hydrogenated sterol;
(c) about 3% to about 30% lower alcohol;
(d) about 5% to about 40% oily components; With
(e) water.
By reading following description and appending claims, can understand these and other feature, aspect and advantage of the present invention better.
Detailed Description Of The Invention
Although this description it is believed that by following explanation to understand the present invention better to particularly point out and clearly claimed claims of the present invention are drawn a conclusion.
Herein, " comprise " and be meant and add other step of not influencing final result and other composition.This term comprise term " by ... form " and " basically by ... composition ".
Except as otherwise noted, all percentage ratio, umber and ratio is all in the gross weight of compositions of the present invention.All weight that relate to listed composition all are in its activity substance content, and therefore do not comprise the carrier or the by-product that may be included in the commercially available prod.
Herein, " mixture " is meant simple combination that comprises material and any chemical compound that is produced by their combinations.
Though this description with particularly point out and clearly claimed claims of the present invention as conclusion, it is believed that by following explanation and can understand the present invention better.
Compositions
Compositions of the present invention comprises first surface activating agent system, lower alcohol, oily components and the water of hydrophilic gelling agent, high HLB value.Compositions of the present invention preferably also comprises second surface activating agent system.
This compositions can provide less greasy feeling and/or the less sense of being clamminess to skin when comprising the oily components of increment.
With other polymer phase ratio, the use of hydrophilic gelling agent can provide less greasy feeling and/or the sense of being clamminess.The use of lower alcohol also can provide the less greasy feeling and/or the sense of being clamminess.
Compare with low HLB value surfactant, the use of high HLB value first surface activating agent system can provide less greasy feeling and/or the sense of being clamminess.Be not bound by theory, it is believed that with low HLB value surfactant and compare, because the high HLB value surfactant and the less compatibility of oily components,, provide the granularity of bigger oily components when high HLB value surfactant during at aqueous phase emulsifying and/or dispersion oily components.The granule that it is believed that bigger oily components provides less butyraceous sensation to skin, also provides less greasy feeling and/or the less sense of being clamminess to skin.
In addition, be not bound by theory, it is believed that the use of hydrophilic gelling agent, high HLB value first surface activating agent system and lower alcohol can make the oily components of increment by a spot of surfactant system emulsifying and/or dispersion.
In compositions of the present invention, the weight ratio of oily components and first surface activating agent system is at preferred about 10: 1 to 100: 1, more preferably from about 15: 1 to 90: 1, also more preferably from about 30: 1 to about 90: 1 scope.When other surfactant (as second surface activating agent system) when being included in the compositions, oily components and all surfaces activating agent (whole first surface activating agent system and other surfactant, as second surface activating agent system) weight ratio at preferred about 10: 1 to about 100: 1, more preferably from about 15: 1 to 90: 1, also more preferably from about 30: 1 to about 90: 1 scope.
In compositions of the present invention, the content of all surfaces activating agent is preferably about 0.001% to about 2.0% by the weight of described compositions, and more preferably from about 0.01% to about 1.0%, and more preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.8%.
Preferably, compositions of the present invention is substantially free of other surfactant except first and second surfactant systems.In the present invention, " being substantially free of other surfactant " is meant except first and second surfactant systems, and compositions comprises 0.001% or still less, other surfactant of preferred 0%.
Compositions of the present invention is suitable for local coating to human body skin, is particularly useful for skin of face.Typically, described coating with every day frequency approximately once in these extended periods, use, its coating frequency can be up to about three times/day or more.
Hydrophilic gelling agent
Compositions of the present invention comprises hydrophilic gelling agent, and its content is preferably about 0.001% to about 5% by the weight of described compositions, and more preferably from about 0.04% to about 2%, and also more preferably from about 0.04% to about 1%.
Be not bound by theory, it is believed that hydrophilic gelling agent provides the shear thinning characteristic to this compositions.The shear thinning characteristic is meant and is present in typically and can be administered to yield point in the shear pressure on the skin by hands, and the composition viscosity that surpasses yield point significantly is decreased to the degree that can be arrived by the consumer alert.In a preferred embodiment, before coating was sheared, compositions of the present invention had suitable viscosity, be preferably about 100mPas to about 40,000mPas, more preferably about 500mPas extremely about 38,000mPas also is preferably about 700mPas to about 35,000mPas.In the time of 25 ℃, can measure viscosity herein with the rotating speed of 2rad/s (20rpm) aptly with axle #4,5,6 or 7 (this depends on the viscosity and the characteristic of compositions) by Brookfield LV.In a highly preferred embodiment, the viscosity that surpasses yield point is similar to the viscosity in the water.After use, the shear thinning characteristic can directly provide low viscosity compositions, provides thus water is coated to sensation on the skin.
In addition, in aqueous environment, hydrophilic gelling agent can disperse and stable oily components, so that this component can not separated out.
The hydrophilic gelling agent that is applicable to this paper comprises carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer, Voncoat R 3310, acrylate copolymer and their mixture.
This paper carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer is the hydrophobically modified cross-linked copolymer of carboxylic acid and alkyl carboxylates and has amphipathic characteristic.It is believed that carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer can not make compositions have the viscosity of not expecting owing to comprise alkyl in the copolymer.
The carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer that this paper suits is the acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymer with following formula:
R wherein
51Be hydrogen or alkyl, wherein at least one R independently with 1 to 30 carbon atom
51Be hydrogen, R
52As above definition, n, n ', m and m ' are integer, wherein n+n '+m+m ' is about 40 to about 100, n " be 1 to about 30 integer, and l is defined and makes that the molecular weight of copolymer is about 500,000 to about 3,000,000.
Can be used for commercially available carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer of the present invention comprises: commodity are called Carbopol Ultrez 21, Carbopol Ultrez 10, Pemulen TR-1, PemulenTR-2, Carbopol 1342, Carbopol 1382 and Carbopol ETD 2020, the CTFA name is called those of acrylate/acrylic acid C10-30 alkyl ester cross-linked polymer, all available from Noveon; With ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate// behenyl alcohol ether-25 methacrylate cross linked polymer of commodity Aristoflex HMB by name, available from Clariant.
Can be used for Voncoat R 3310 of the present invention and comprise sodium polyacrylate, polyethyl acrylate and polyacrylamide.Is preferred acrylates homopolymer with trade name Cosmedia SP available from the sodium polyacrylate of Cognis.
Can be used for acrylate copolymer of the present invention and comprise the PVP/VA copolymer, as be purchased S-630 from the PVP/VA of ISP; With with the ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate// VP copolymer of trade name Aristoflex AVC available from Clariant.
If desired, can comprise nertralizer with in and carboxylic acid/carboxylate polymer hydrophilic gelling agent.The non-limiting example of above-mentioned nertralizer comprises sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, aluminium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, diisopropanolamine (DIPA), amino methyl propanol, tromethane, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine and their mixture.
First surface activating agent system
Compositions of the present invention comprises first surface activating agent system.First surface activating agent system comprises one or more non-ionic surface active agents, and it is selected from polysorbate, the hydrogenant Oleum Ricini of polyoxyalkylene, the polyglycereol Arrcostab with C10-20 alkyl substituent, polyoxyethylene sterol and polyethylene glycol hydrogenated sterol.
Generally speaking, hydrophil lipophil balance (HLB) value of first surface activating agent system is 10 or bigger, preferred about 12 or bigger, more preferably about 14 to about 20.Preferably, first surface activating agent system is 10 or bigger by having the HLB value substantially, more preferably from about 12 or bigger, and also more preferably about 14 to about 20 non-ionic surface active agent is formed.
Can be used for polyoxyalkylene castor oil hydrogenated of the present invention and comprise the polyoxyethylene hydrogenated Oleum Ricini that for example has the 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide, as polyoxyethylene (20) castor oil hydrogenated, polyethylene (40) castor oil hydrogenated and polyoxyethylene (100) castor oil hydrogenated.
The polyglycereol Arrcostab that can be used for the C10-20 of having alkyl substituent of the present invention comprise for example contain the 6-10 mole of glycerin unitary those, as polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate and polyglyceryl-10 stearate.
Can be used for polysorbate of the present invention and comprise those that for example contain the 20-80 moles of ethylene oxide, as polysorbate-20, polysorbate-40, polysorbate-60 and polysorbate-80.
Can be used for polyethylene sterol of the present invention and the hydrogenant sterol of polyethylene comprises those that for example contain the 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide, as polyethylene (10) plant sterol, polyethylene (30) plant sterol and polyethylene (20) cholesterol.
In above-mentioned non-ionic surface active agent, preferably polysorbate, more preferably polysorbate-20, polysorbate-40 and their mixture.
Preferably, first surface activating agent system is a liquid in the time of 40 ℃, is liquid in the time of 25 ℃ more preferably.
The content that is included in the first surface activating agent system in the present composition is preferably about 0.001% to about 1.0%, more preferably about 0.01% to about 0.5% by the weight of described compositions, and also more preferably about 0.05% to about 0.5%.
Lower alcohol
Compositions of the present invention comprises a kind of lower alcohol.Can be used for lower alcohol of the present invention is the monohydric alcohol with 1 to 6 carbon atom, more preferably ethanol and isopropyl alcohol.
The use that it is believed that lower alcohol can provide less greasy feeling and/or the sense of being clamminess.It is believed that also lower alcohol can help oily components to be disperseed by a spot of surfactant system.
In addition, lower alcohol can be used as antiseptic.This is particularly useful when oily components comprises polar oil preparation such as ultra-violet protecting agent.Be not bound by theory, it is believed that some antiseptic such as p-Hydroxybenzoate are tending towards being present in oil phase rather than aqueous phase, therefore are unfavorable for that antiseptic works effectively at aqueous phase when compositions of the present invention comprises above-mentioned polar oil preparation.It is believed that also lower alcohol can be present in aqueous phase and can be used as antiseptic.
The content that lower alcohol can be included in the compositions is preferably about 3% to about 30%, more preferably about 3% to about 20% by the weight of described compositions, and also more preferably about 5% to about 15%.
Oily components
Compositions of the present invention comprises oily components.Can be used for oily components of the present invention and comprise for example solvent, emollient, silicone oil and their mixture of ultra-violet protecting agent, ultra-violet protecting agent.The content that oily components is included in the compositions is preferably about 5% to about 40%, more preferably about 10% to about 25% by the weight of described compositions.
(i) ultra-violet protecting agent and solvent thereof
Ultra-violet protecting agent is to prevent from usually to make horny layer excessively peel off those materials that change with skin texture owing to being exposed to ultraviolet light.The wide variety of conventional ultraviolet protective agent is applicable to this paper.Preferably octyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, avobenzone, heliophan, octyl triazone and their mixture.Other conventional ultra-violet protecting agent also can be used for the present invention.These reagent comprise for example butyl methoxydibenzoylmethise, 2-hydroxyl-4-methoxyl group benzophenone, 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octyldimethyl para-amino benzoic acid, N, N-dimethyl para-amino benzoic acid-2-ethyl hexyl ester, para-amino benzoic acid, hydroxyl methoxy benzophenone, 4-isopropyl diphenyl formoxyl methane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3-(4-methyl benzal) Camphora.
Its accurate consumption will depend on selected sunscreen and required sun protection factor (SPF).SPF is that the commonly used of anti-erythema photoprotection of sunscreen measured.Referring to FederalRegister, the 43rd volume, the 166th phase, the 38206th to 38269 page, on August 25th, 1978.
When ultra-violet protecting agent is solid,, preferably they are dissolved in the solvent in order to obtain higher spf value.Above-mentioned solvent is generally hydrophobic.Preferably Hamposyl L isopropyl ester, salicylic acid butyl monooctyl ester, 2,6-naphthoic acid ethylhexyl, tricaprylin and their mixture.Can be used for solvent of the present invention and also can be used as hereinafter described " emollient ".
Ultra-violet protecting agent and solvent thereof preferably use with other oily components.When using with other oily components, ultra-violet protecting agent and solvent thereof are included in content in the compositions by the weight of described compositions, are preferably about 0.1% to about 30%, more preferably about 1% to about 25%, and also more preferably about 5% to about 25%.
(ii) emollient
Can be used for soothing oil of the present invention is that fusing point is no more than about 25 ℃, and provides those of skin moistening beneficial effect to skin.Can be used for soothing oil of the present invention and comprise ester and hydrocarbon.The soothing oil of highly preferred low viscosity, low-molecular-weight or branched structure.Be surprised to find, being clamminess of skin felt and greasy feeling by using these oil to alleviate.
Can be used for soothing oil of the present invention is ester, especially contains the ester of branched alkyl and alkenyl.Above-mentioned ester comprises for example 2 ethyl hexanoic acid cetyl, different n-nonanoic acid tridecyl ester, the isostearyl isostearate ester, isostearic acid isocetyl ester, the isostearic acid isopropyl ester, different n-nonanoic acid isodecyl ester, Octanoic acid, hexadecyl ester, isononyl isononanoate, the myristic acid diisopropyl ester, the different cetyl of myristic acid, myristic acid isotridecyl ester, isopropyl myristate, myristic acid myristyl ester, Palmic acid isooctadecanol ester, the different cetyl of Palmic acid, Palmic acid isodecyl ester, isopropyl palmitate, myristic acid iso stearyl ester, Palmic acid octyl group ester, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycerol three (2-ethylhexanoate), neopentyl glycol two (2-ethylhexanoate), the neopentyl glycol dicaprate, diisopropyl dimer salt, tricaprylin, three different tripalmitins, isopropyl myristate, lactic acid octyl group dodecyl ester, and their mixture.Also can use triglyceride such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglyceride and PEG-8 caprylic/capric triglyceride.Also can use the thick thing that mixes of these triglyceride of CTFA Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil by name.Commercially available oils comprises, for example, with trade name Salacos 99 available from NisshinOil Mills or with the isononyl isononanoate of commodity Lanol 99 available from Seppic; With trade name Crodamol TN available from Croda and with trade name Hexalan available from the different n-nonanoic acid tridecyl ester of NisshinSeiyu with the Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil of trade name Cropure MDF available from Croda.
Also can be used for the hydrocarbon that soothing oil of the present invention is various grades and kind.Mineral oil is the liquid mixture that derives from the hydrocarbon of oil.The specific embodiment of suitable hydrocarbon comprises paraffin oil (comprising those that are called as pumice wax or isoparaffin), mineral oil, squalane, dodecane, Fancol ID, hexadecane, 2-Methylpentadecane, eicosylene, different eicosylene, tridecane, the tetradecane, Parleam, docosane, and their mixture.Can be used for commercially available hydrocarbon of the present invention comprises with trade name PERMETHYL 99A, PERMETHYL 101A and PERMETHYL 1082 available from Presperse (South Plainfield New Jersey, Fancol ID USA), 2-Methylpentadecane and different eicosylene; With the mineral oil of trade name BENOL available from Witco; With trade name ISOPAR available from Exxon Chemical Co. (Houston Texas, USA.); With trade name Isoparaffin 2028 available from Idemitsu; With with the isoparaffin of trade name AmscoMineral Spirits available from Ashland.
(iii) silicone oil
Silicone oil preferably uses with other oily components.When using with other oily components, the content that silicone oil is included in the compositions is preferably about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 5% by the weight of described compositions, and also more preferably about 0.5% to about 3%.
Can be used for silicone components of the present invention and comprise the insoluble silicone that is applicable to skin.The so-called insoluble siloxanes that is meant forms and the isolating discontinuous phase of carrier, for example the siloxanes droplet of emulsion or form of suspension.Silicone components can comprise the emulsion polymerisation effect by any suitable method preparation known in the art herein.Silicone components can also emulsion form mix this compositions, wherein emulsion is made by mechanical mixture or makes via the emulsion polymerisation effect by building-up process, this preparation process can or not have to carry out under its auxiliary situation the down auxiliary of surfactant, and described surfactant is selected from anion surfactant, non-ionic surface active agent, cationic surfactant and their mixture.High-molecular weight silicone components can be prepared by the emulsion polymerisation effect.
Can be used for silicone components of the present invention and comprise the poly-aryl siloxanes of poly-alkyl, silicone resin, the amino siloxanes that replaces and their mixture.Silicone components is preferably selected from poly-alkyl poly-aryl siloxanes, silicone resin and their mixture, more preferably is selected from the poly-aryl siloxanes of one or more poly-alkyl.
Can be used for the poly-aryl siloxanes of poly-alkyl of the present invention and comprise those with following structure (I):
Wherein R is an alkyl or aryl, and x is about 1 to about 8,000 integer.The group of " A " representative sealing siloxane chain end.As long as it is mobile that the gained siloxanes at room temperature keeps, can disperse, non-stimulated in the time of on being coated to skin, nontoxic do not have other illeffects yet, with other component compatibility of compositions, routine use and condition of storage under chemically stable and can be deposited on the skin and regulate skin, go up or can have arbitrary structures at siloxane chain (R) so at the alkyl or aryl of the end replacement of siloxane chain (A).Suitable A group comprises hydroxyl, methyl, methoxyl group, ethyoxyl, propoxyl group and aryloxy group.Two R groups on silicon atom can be represented identical or different group.Preferably, two R groups are represented identical group.Suitable R group comprises methyl, ethyl, propyl group, phenyl, aminomethyl phenyl and phenyl methyl, trialkyl silica alkane (for example trimethicone).
In the poly-aryl siloxanes of above-mentioned poly-alkyl, it is highly preferred that have following formula those of (I), wherein x is 1 to about 15 integer, is preferably 1 to about 10, more preferably 1 to about 5, and wherein at least one R is a phenyl.The poly-aryl siloxanes of above-mentioned highly preferred poly-alkyl comprises for example Silicone DC 556, phenyl methyl siloxanes, phenylpropyl trimethicone and phenylpropyl trimethicone/diphenylmethyl radical siloxane.The poly-aryl siloxanes of commercially available highly preferred poly-alkyl comprises, for example with trade name Silicone oil KF56 available from the Silicone DC 556 of Shinetsu Chem with the phenylpropyl trimethicone of trade name DC2-2043 CosmeticGrade Fluid available from Dow Corning.When oily components comprised ultra-violet protecting agent, these silicone oil that contain phenyl were particularly useful.When comprising ultra-violet protecting agent, when being applied to skin, compositions provides dull sense and/or dry sensation usually.When being applied to skin, the use that contains the silicone oil of phenyl provides the soft feeling and the smooth feeling of improvement.
The poly-aryl siloxanes of the poly-alkyl of Shi Yonging is poly-alkylsiloxane, for example polydimethylsiloxane and poly-di-ethyl siloxane in addition.Polydimethylsiloxane is also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane.These chemical compounds for example with trade name Viscasil and SF 96 series available from GeneralElectric Company and with trade name Dow Corning 200 series available from DowCorning.
The poly-aryl siloxanes of the poly-alkyl of Shi Yonging is a silicone gum in addition.Term used herein " silicone gum " is meant that viscosity in the time of 25 ℃ is more than or equal to 1m
2The polysiloxane material of/s (1,000,000 centistoke).Will be appreciated that silicone gum as herein described also can have some repetitions with disclosed silicone compounds above.This repeats not to be intended to any of these material is limited.Weight average molecular weight that should " silicone gum " is typically about more than 200,000, usually between about 200,000 and about 1,000, between 000.Its specific embodiment comprises polydimethylsiloxane, poly-(dimethyl siloxane ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer, poly-(dimethyl siloxane diphenyl siloxane ethylene methacrylic radical siloxane) copolymer and their mixture.High-viscosity silicone chemical compound (for example silicone gum) preferably uses with the siloxy group carrier.The siloxy group carrier comprises that viscosity is about 6mPas to those of about 100mPas, and it is selected from has cyclohexyl methyl siloxanes and the polydimethylsiloxane that hangs down repetitive.
Water
The present composition comprises water.The preferred deionized water that uses.The characteristic required according to product also can be used the water of the natural origin that comprises mineral cation.
Usually, the present composition comprises by the weight of described compositions about 10% to about 99%, and preferred about 50% to about water of 95%, more preferably about 60% to about 90%.
The pH of this compositions is preferably about 4 to about 8, and more preferably from about 5 to about 7.In this pH scope, suitable viscosity skin treatment agents is especially effective.For obtaining required pH, can comprise buffer agent and other pH regulator agent.
Second surface activating agent system
Compositions of the present invention preferably comprises second surface activating agent system.Second surface activating agent system comprises one or more non-ionic surface active agents, and it is selected from silicone copolyol ester, silicone copolyol and their mixture.
Can be used for silicone copolyol ester of the present invention and comprise for example having for about 2 to about 10 dialkylsiloxane unit, preferred dimethyl polysiloxane unit, have for about 2 to about 20 carbon atoms with have for about 5 to those of about 10 oxyalkylene groups derived from fatty acid.Above-mentioned silicone copolyol ester comprises for example polydimethylsiloxane isostearate, as polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 isostearate, it is purchased from for example Noveon and polydimethylsiloxane Fructus Canarii albi grease with trade name Ultrasil DW18, as polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 Fructus Canarii albi grease, it is purchased from for example Noveon with trade name Ultrasil DW-O.
Can be used for silicone copolyol of the present invention and comprise, for example have for about 2 to about 10 dialkylsiloxane unit, preferred dimethyl polysiloxane unit and having for about 2 to those of about 10 oxyalkylene groups.Above-mentioned silicone copolyol comprises, dimethicone copolyol for example, and as the PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane, it is purchased from for example Shinetsu Chem with trade name KF-6017.
Preferably, second surface activating agent system is a liquid in the time of 40 ℃, is liquid in the time of 25 ℃ more preferably.
The content that is included in the second surface activating agent system in the present composition is preferably about 0.001% to about 1.0%, more preferably about 0.01% to about 0.5% by the weight of described compositions, and also more preferably about 0.05% to about 0.5%.
Additional water-soluble polymer
The present composition can also comprise additional water-soluble polymer, and preferably its content is about 0.01% to about 5%, and more preferably from about 0.04% to about 1%.Additional herein water-soluble polymer is a polymer water miscible or can be miscible with water, and compatible with carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer.Be not bound by theory, it is believed that the additional water-soluble polymer of controlled quatity in the compositions provides humidification and the slickness improved for skin, but can not produce undesirable be clamminess sense or sticking sense.
In a preferred embodiment, select additional water-soluble polymer so that this compositions has the appropriate viscosity of preferred about 100mPas to about 6000mPas, as mentioned above.
Be applicable to that other water-soluble polymer of the present invention comprises anionic polymer and non-ionic polymers.Can be used for other water-soluble polymer of the present invention for example comprise polyvinyl as, the CTFA name is called the crosslinked acrylic acid polymer of Carbomer; The cellulosic polymer of cellulose derivative and modification as, methylcellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl emthylcellulose; Polyvinylpyrrolidone; Polyvinyl alcohol; Natural gum is as guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum and xanthan gum; Microbial polymer as, glucosan and succinoglucan; Based on the polymer of starch as, carboxymethyl starch and methyl hydroxypropyl starch.Molecular weight also can be used for the present invention greater than about 1000 poly alkylene glycol.Can be used for additional water-soluble polymer of the present invention and comprise that amphoteric polymer is as, polyquaternary ammonium salt 22, polyquaternary ammonium salt 39, polyquaternary ammonium salt 47 and octyl acrylamide/acrylate/metering system acid butyl ammonia ethyl ester copolymer.
Highly can be used for the commercially available additional water soluble polymer of the present invention and comprise xanthan gum, its with trade name Keltrol series available from Kelco; Carbomer, with trade name Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980 and Carbopol 981 all available from Noveon; Acrylate/stearyl polyethenoxy ether metacrylic acid ester copolymer, with trade name ACRYSOL 22 available from Rohm and Hass; The ninth of the ten Heavenly Stems oxygen ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, with trade name AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 available from Amerchol; Methylcellulose with trade name BENECEL, hydroxyethyl-cellulose, with trade name NATROSOL, hydroxypropyl cellulose, with trade name KLUCEL, cetyl hydroxyethyl-cellulose, with trade name POLYSURF67, provides by Herculus; Scleroglycan, with trade name Clearogel SC11 available from Michel Mercier Products Inc. (NJ, USA); Oxirane and/or expoxy propane based polyalcohol provide by Amerchol with trade name CARBOWAX PEGs, POLYOX WASRs and UCONFLUIDS.
Water-soluble wetting agent
Compositions of the present invention also can comprise about 1% to about 20%, preferred about 5% to about 15% water-soluble wetting agent.Be applicable to that water-soluble wetting agent of the present invention comprises polyhydric alcohol such as glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol, butanediol, hexanediol, ethoxylated glucose, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, hexanetriol, dipropylene glycol, erithritol, trehalose, two glycerol, xylitol, maltose alcohol, maltose, glucose, fructose, sodium chondroitin sulfate, hyaluronate sodium, adenylic acid sodium, sodium lactate, ketopyrrolidine carbonate, glucamine, cyclodextrin and their mixture.
Be applicable to that water-soluble wetting agent of the present invention comprises the Polyethylene Glycol and the polypropylene glycol of water soluble alkoxylated non-ionic polymers such as molecular weight the most about 1000, as have the mixture that the CTFA name is called those and they of PEG-200, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000.
Can highly be used for commercially available wetting agent of the present invention comprises: butanediol, with the trade name 1,3 butylene glycol available from ASAHI DENKA Co.Ltd.; Glycerol, available from Croda Universal Ltd., PRECERIN series is available from Unichema with trade name CRODEROL GA7000, with the identical trade name of chemical name available from NOF; Propylene glycol, with trade name LEXOL PG-865/855 available from Inolex, 1,2-propylene glycol USP is available from BASF; Dipropylene glycol, with identical trade name available from BASF; Two glycerol, with trade name DIGLYCEROL available from Solvay GmbH; Polyethylene Glycol, with the mixture of trade name CARBOWAX series available from Union Carbide and glyceryl polymethacrylates, propylene glycol and PVM/MA copolymer, with trade name Lubrajel Oil available from Guardian Lab.
The sebum absorbent
Compositions of the present invention can comprise about 0.1% to about 10%, preferred about 1% to about 5% sebum absorbent.Being applicable to that sebum absorbent of the present invention comprises in fact can absorb from the oozy sebum of pore and those materials compatible with Aquo-composition of the present invention.Water solublity, hydroexpansivity or the component with higher emulsifying capacity are unsuitable for this paper, because when being formulated in it in this compositions, they no longer have the sebum absorbability.
The preferred sebum absorbent of this paper comprises porous spherical cellulose powder, Trefil 506C, surface modification porous silica powder, porous nylon powder, porous propylene acid ester copolymer and their mixture.The type of sebum absorbent and quantity are selected according to the required character of product.
Can highly be used for commercially available porous spherical cellulose powder of the present invention and comprise series, as Celluflow C025, available from the material of Chisso Corp. with trade name Celluflow.Can highly be used for commercially available Trefil 506C of the present invention and comprise vinyldimethicone/methylsiloxane silsesquioxane cross linked polymer, its with trade name KSP series available from ShinEtsu Chemical Co., Ltd., Tokyo Japan.Other commercially available sebum absorbent comprises the porous propylene acid ester copolymer, its with trade name Polytra p available from DowCorning.
The viscosity skin treatment agents
The present composition can comprise about 0.5% to about 10%, preferred about 1% to about 5% viscosity skin treatment agents.Be applicable to that skin treatment agents of the present invention is to help to repair and additional epidermis natural water divides those of barrier function, so they can improve for skin provides beneficial effect such as skin texture.Usually be known that these reagent are the beneficial effect that skin provides usefulness when these reagent of life-time service, but when they apply separately, also be easy to the dermal sensation that provides relatively poor.
Be applicable to that viscosity skin treatment agents of the present invention has nicotiamide, nicotinic acid and ester thereof, nicotinyl alcohol, pantothenylol, cigarette base (panthenyl) ethylether, positive acetylcysteine, positive acetyl-L-serine, phosphodiesterase inhibitor, trimethyl glycine, carbamide, gelatin, soluble collagen, Lac regis apis, tocopheryl nicotinate and vitamin D3 and analog or derivant, and their mixture.Especially preferred nicotiamide because when it uses with pharmacy effective dose, can reduce or alleviate the intensity of chronic speckle.Nicotiamide is suitable for mixing in the compositions by at first being dissolved in the water.Pantothenylol also is especially preferred because when it when using at least about 1% amount, the beneficial effect that it can provide skin texture to improve.Nicotinamide and pantothenylol can be commercially available from for example Roche.
Sebum suppresses the plant extract agent
The present composition also can comprise about 0.001% to about 5%, and more preferably from about 0.05% to about 1% sebum suppresses the plant extract agent.Can be used for plant extract agent of the present invention is to have the astringent type effect that reduces pore size, or has an inhibitory action of 5-reductase, and compatible with this compositions of moisture form, preferably can not change those of transparent or semitransparent outward appearance of this compositions.Preferred water soluble plant extractant.The plant extract agent that is applicable to this paper comprises Flos Caryophylli (choji) extract, Semen Coicis (yokuinin) extract, Radix Hamamelidis Mollis (hamamerisu) extract and their mixture.These plant extracts are available from Iwase.
Brightening agent
Compositions of the present invention also can comprise about 0.001% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5% brightening agent.Be applicable to that brightening agent of the present invention is those compatible with this compositions of moisture form.Preferred water dissolubility brightening agent.Be applicable to brightening agent of the present invention be meant with handle before compare the active component that not only changes skin appearance but also improve hyperpigmentation disease.
Be applicable to that useful brightening agent of the present invention comprises ascorbic acid compound, Azelaic Acid, butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA), gallic acid and derivant thereof, glycyrrhizic acid, hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, mulberry extract and their mixture.It is believed that it is favourable using the combination of brightening agent, brightens beneficial effect because they can provide by different mechanism.
Preferably, can be used for ascorbic acid compound of the present invention is the Ascorbate or derivatives thereof.The water soluble salt derivant of example includes but not limited to L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside, L-ascorbyl phosphate ester salt such as L-ascorbyl sodium phosphate, L-ascorbyl potassium phosphate, L-ascorbyl potassium phosphate, L-ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, L-ascorbyl calcium phosphate, L-ascorbyl aluminum phosphate.Also can use L-ascorbyl sulfuric acid.Embodiment is L-ascorbyl sodium sulfate, L-ascorbyl potassium sulfate, L-ascorbyl magnesium sulfate, L-ascorbyl calcium sulfate and L-ascorbyl aluminum sulfate.
Annexing ingredient
This paper compositions also can comprise other annexing ingredient, selected according to the desirable characteristics of final products by the technical staff, and described annexing ingredient is suitable for making compositions more acceptant on cosmetology or aesthetics, and the beneficial effect of additional purpose perhaps is provided for it.Be applicable to that component of the present invention carries out easy classification by beneficial effect or its supposition action mode of determining, yet given classification to its purposes without limits.It is also understood that a kind of component can provide multiple beneficial effect.
(i) antioxidant and free radical scavenger
Antioxidant and free radical scavenger be for providing ultra-violet radiation resisting protection and resist other environmental agent that causes skin lesion particularly useful, and described ultraviolet radiation can cause the increase of peeling off in the horny layer or the change of skin texture.Preferred anti-oxidants/free radical scavenger comprises for example tocopherol sorbic acid ester and other Renascin, more preferably tocopherol sorbic acid ester.For example, can be applicable to of the present invention in local emulsion the use ester of tocopherol sorbic acid be described in the people's such as Bissett that announced on July 11st, 1989 the United States Patent (USP) 4,847,071.
(ii) antiinflammatory
By for example helping uniformity and the acceptable colour of skin and/or color, antiinflammatory can strengthen the beneficial effect of skin appearance.Preferably, antiinflammatory comprises steroid antiinflammatory and non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents.The preferred steroid antiinflammatory that is suitable for is a hydrocortisone.Also can use so-called " natural " antiinflammatory.For example, can use α-bisabolol, Aloe, Manjistha (from the Rubia plant, especially extract in the Radix Rubiae) and Guggal (from the Myrrha platymiscium, especially extracting in the commiphora mukul), cola extract, Chamomile and gorgonian extract.
(iii) antimicrobial
Used " antimicrobial " is meant can destroy microorganisms, prevent growth of microorganism or prevent the chemical compound of the pathogenic effects of microorganism.For example, antimicrobial can be used for controlling acne.Be applicable to that preferred antimicrobial of the present invention is benzoyl peroxide, erythromycin, tetracycline, clindamycin, Azelaic Acid, sulfur resorcinol, phenyl phenol and Irgasan
TMDP 300 (CibaGeigy Corp., U.S.A.).The antimicrobial that can add safe and effective amount in emulsion of the present invention is preferably about 0.001% to about 10%, and more preferably from about 0.01% to about 5%, and also more preferably from about 0.05% to about 2%.
(iv) chelating agen
" chelating agen " used in the present invention is meant by reaction formation coordination compound and removes metal ion so that metal ion is difficult for the chemical compound of participation or catalyzed chemical reaction from system.It is particularly useful with the protection of resisting other environmental agent that can cause skin lesion for the opposing ultraviolet radiation is provided to comprise chelating agen, and described ultraviolet radiation can cause excessively peeling off or texture changes.Be applicable to that the chelating agen of example of the present invention is disclosed in the people's such as Bissett that announced on January 30th, 1996 United States Patent (USP) 5,487,884; In the PCT application 91/16035 and 91/16034 that October 31 nineteen ninety-five, people such as Bush announced.Preferred chelating agen has furil-dioxime and derivant thereof.
(v) silicone elastomer
Compositions of the present invention can comprise non-emulsifying cross-linked organopolysiloxane.Term used herein " non-emulsifying " is used for definition and does not contain the unitary cross-lined organic polyorganosiloxane elastomer of polyoxyalkylene.Above-mentioned elastomer is used to reduce the cohesiveness relevant with skin conditioner/viscosity sense.
Advantageously, elastomer can be Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone cross linked polymer, vinyldimethicone/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane cross linked polymer, C30-C45, alkyl cetearyl polydimethylsiloxane/poly-cyclohexane oxide cross linked polymer and their mixture.
This class Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone cross linked polymer can be by a lot of suppliers supply, comprise Dow Corning (DC 9040 and DC 9041), GeneralElectric (SFE 839), Shin Etsu (KSG-15,16,18[polydimethylsiloxane/phenyl vinyl polydimethylsiloxane cross linked polymer]) and Grant Industries (GRANSIL
TMThe series elastomer).Can be used for cross-lined organic polyorganosiloxane elastomer of the present invention and preparation method thereof also is described in the following patent: the United States Patent (USP) of announcing November 13 nineteen ninety 4,970,252 of authorizing people such as Sakuta; The United States Patent (USP) of announcing on June 2nd, 1,998 5,760,116 of authorizing people such as Kilgour; That announced on August 5th, 1997 authorizes Schulz, people's such as Jr. United States Patent (USP) 5,654,362, and all these documents are incorporated herein by reference.
Vinyldimethicone/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane cross linked polymer comprises vinyldimethicone/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane cross linked polymer and mineral oil (trade name KSG-41); Vinyldimethicone/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane cross linked polymer and Fancol ID (trade name KSG-42); Vinyldimethicone/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane cross linked polymer and three isooctyl acid glyceride (trade name KSG-43); Vinyldimethicone/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane cross linked polymer and squalane (trade name KSG-44).In these of called after silicone elastomer " KSG " each is all available from Shinestu Chemical.
Commercially available ring-type polymethyl siloxane and C30-C45 alkyl spermaceti Stearyl dimethicone/poly-cyclohexane oxide cross linked polymer with trade name Velvasil 125 available from GESilicone.
(vi) other component
Except that said components, the present composition can also comprise antiseptic and preservative enhancer, but as the antiseptic of water solublity or solubilising, comprises Germall 115; Methyl hydroxybenzoate, nipagin A, nipasol and butoben, benzylalcohol, imidazolidinyl urea, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and salt thereof, bromo nitryl propylene glycol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-glycol) and phenoxypropanol; Defoamer; Binding agent; Bio-additive; Extender; Coloring agent; Quintessence oil and solubilizing agent thereof; Other natural extract; Stimulate the chemical compound of collagen production; Culture propagation filtrate, and other material.
Embodiment
The interior embodiment of the scope of the invention is also described and illustrated to following examples.These embodiment that given only are illustrative, and are unintelligible for being limitation of the present invention, because can carry out multiple change under the condition that does not deviate from spirit and scope of the invention.Unless hereinafter explanation in addition, the composition of Shi Yonging is all discerned with chemical name or CTFA name herein.
Compositions
The component definition
*1 polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 isostearate: commodity are called UltrasilDW18, available from Noveon.
*The 2PEG-10 polydimethylsiloxane: commodity are called KF-6017, available from Shinetsu Chem.
*3 polydimethylsiloxane PEG-7 Fructus Canarii albi greases: commodity are called UltrasilDW-O, available from Noveon
*4 methylmethacrylate cross linked polymers: commodity are called GanzPearl 2001, available from Ganz Kasei
*5 Silicone DC 556s: commodity are called Silicone Oil KF56, available from Shinetsu Chem.
*6 phenylpropyl trimethicones: commodity are called DC2-2043 cosmetics-stage liquid, available from Dow Corning
*7 ring-type polymethyl siloxanes and C30-C45 alkyl spermaceti Stearyl dimethicone/poly-cyclohexane oxide cross linked polymer: commodity are called Velvasil 125, available from GESilicone
*8 vinyldimethicone/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane cross linked polymer and Fancol ID: commodity are called KSG-42, available from Shinetsu Chem.
*9 vinyldimethicone/lauryl polydimethylsiloxane cross linked polymer and three isooctyl acid glyceride: commodity are called KSG-43, available from Shinetsu Chem.
*10 sodium polyacrylate: commodity are called Cosmedia SP, available from Cognis
*11 ammonium acryloyldime-thyltaurate// VP copolymer: commodity are called AristoflexAVC, available from Clariant
*12 acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymer 1: commodity are called Carbopol ETD2020, available from Noveon.
*13 acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymer 2: commodity are called Carbopol Ultrez21, available from Noveon.
*14 zizyphus Fructus Jujubae berry extracts: available from Ichimaru Pharcos
*15 Radix Hamamelidis Mollis extracts: commodity are called Hamamerisu Liquid, available from Iwase
*16 Flos Caryophylli extracts: commodity are called Choji Extract BG, available from Iwase
*17 titanium dioxide: commodity are called titanium dioxide MT-100, available from Tayca
*18 cellulose powders: commodity are called Celluflow C-25, available from Chisso corp.
Preparation method
The skin care compositions of " embodiment 1 " as implied above to " embodiment 7 " can be by the method preparation of any routine well known in the art.For example, compositions of the present invention can be prepared by following steps:
(a) will be mutually 03 be heated to about 80 ℃ and be stirred to polymer dissolution.To 03 be cooled to about 25 ℃ mutually then.
(b) incite somebody to action the mixture that phase 04 is added into (a).
(c) will be mutually 05 with 06 mixture that is added into (b) mutually.
(d) will be mutually 01 with 02 mixture that is added into (c) mutually.When comprising the solid ultra-violet protecting agent in the phase 01, before phase 01 is added into the mixture of (c), it is dissolved in the solvent at about 65 ℃.
(e) incite somebody to action the mixture that phase 07 is added into (d).
(f) last, will be mutually 08 with 09 mixture that is added into (e) mutually.
Embodiment open by front " embodiment 1 " to " embodiment 7 " and explanation has many advantages.For example, embodiment 1 to 7 is providing especially effective aspect the ultraviolet protection beneficial effect to skin.When being used for skin of face, the compositions of embodiment 1 to 7 provides the ultraviolet protection beneficial effect to skin, and can not stay be clamminess sense and/or greasy feeling to skin.
The relevant portion of all documents of quoting in detailed Description Of The Invention is incorporated herein by reference; It is to its approval as prior art of the present invention that the quoting of any document not can be regarded as.
Although illustrated and described the present invention with specific embodiments, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that many other variations and modifications may be made in the case of without departing from the spirit and scope of protection of the present invention.Therefore, in additional claims, comprise all such changes and modifications in the scope of the invention consciously.
Claims (8)
1. skin care compositions, described compositions comprises the gross weight in compositions:
(a) 0.001% to 5.0% hydrophilic gelling agent, described hydrophilic gelling agent are selected from carboxylic acid/carboxylate copolymer, Voncoat R 3310, acrylate copolymer and their mixture;
(b) 0.05% to 1.0% the HLB value that has is 14 or the first bigger nonionic surfactant system, wherein said first nonionic surfactant system comprises one or more non-ionic surface active agents, and described non-ionic surface active agent is selected from polysorbate, polyoxyalkylene castor oil hydrogenated, has the polyglycereol Arrcostab of C10-20 alkyl substituent, polyoxyethylene sterol and polyethylene glycol hydrogenated sterol;
(c) 3% to 30% monohydric alcohol with 1-6 carbon atom;
(d) 5% to 40% ultra-violet protecting agent, described ultra-violet protecting agent are selected from octyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, avobenzone, heliophan, octyl triazone and their mixture; With
(e) water.
2. skin care compositions as claimed in claim 1, wherein said first nonionic surfactant system is a liquid in the time of 40 ℃.
3. skin care compositions as claimed in claim 1, wherein said first nonionic surfactant system comprises polysorbate, and described polysorbate is selected from polysorbate-20, polysorbate-40 and their mixture.
4. skin care compositions as claimed in claim 1, described skin care compositions also comprises second nonionic surfactant system in the gross weight 0.001% to 1.0% of compositions, and described second nonionic surfactant system is selected from silicone copolyol ester, silicone copolyol and their mixture.
5. skin care compositions as claimed in claim 4, wherein said second nonionic surfactant system comprises the silicone copolyol ester.
6. skin care compositions as claimed in claim 4, wherein said second nonionic surfactant system is a liquid in the time of 40 ℃.
7. skin care compositions as claimed in claim 1, described skin care compositions also comprise the additional water soluble polymer in the gross weight 0.01% to 5% of compositions.
8. skin care compositions as claimed in claim 1, described skin care compositions also comprise the additional water-soluble wetting agent in the gross weight 1% to 20% of compositions.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US50180403P | 2003-09-10 | 2003-09-10 | |
| US60/501,804 | 2003-09-10 | ||
| US60/592,336 | 2004-07-29 |
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| CN100435779C true CN100435779C (en) | 2008-11-26 |
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Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN107412012A (en) * | 2017-02-09 | 2017-12-01 | 苏州安特化妆品股份有限公司 | A kind of microemulsified makeup removing gel and preparation method thereof |
| CN109069366A (en) * | 2016-05-13 | 2018-12-21 | 莱雅公司 | UV shielding compositions with matte effect and excellent quality |
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| US9861119B2 (en) * | 2012-06-15 | 2018-01-09 | Arkema Inc. | Peroxide dispersions |
| FR3046063B1 (en) * | 2015-12-23 | 2019-05-10 | L'oreal | PHOTOPROTECTIVE COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND PROCESS FOR PREPARING THE SAME |
| WO2018021542A1 (en) * | 2016-07-29 | 2018-02-01 | カーリットホールディングス株式会社 | 2-O-α-D-GLYCOSYL-L-ASCORBIC ACID METAL SALT, USE OF SAME AS ANTIOXIDANT, AND METHOD FOR PRODUCING POWDER OF SAME |
| CN113287611B (en) * | 2021-02-24 | 2022-03-25 | 杭州西子卫生消毒药械有限公司 | Disinfectant wet tissue and preparation method thereof |
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| CN1849109A (en) | 2006-10-18 |
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