WO2017104586A1 - Water-in-oil emulsion composition - Google Patents

Water-in-oil emulsion composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017104586A1
WO2017104586A1 PCT/JP2016/086833 JP2016086833W WO2017104586A1 WO 2017104586 A1 WO2017104586 A1 WO 2017104586A1 JP 2016086833 W JP2016086833 W JP 2016086833W WO 2017104586 A1 WO2017104586 A1 WO 2017104586A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
composition
composition according
oil absorbing
oil
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PCT/JP2016/086833
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French (fr)
Inventor
Rui Niimi
Ritesh Sinha
Momoko Shimizu
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2017104586A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017104586A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • A61K8/064Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88Polyamides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/895Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/548Associative polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61Surface treated

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, more particularly to a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin.
  • W/O water-in-oil
  • W/O emulsions which consist of an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase have an external fatty phase, and therefore cosmetic/dermatological products based on the W/O emulsions can provide a comfortable feeling to the touch.
  • high internal phase W/O emulsions which include a relatively large amount of water are called high internal phase W/O emulsions.
  • high internal phase W/O emulsions can provide a fresher sensation due to the relatively large amount of water, in addition to good resistance to water or sweat due to the external fatty phase of the emulsions.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition in the form of a W/O emulsion which can provide sufficient anti-sebum or anti-shine effects even when the amount of water in the W/O emulsions becomes relatively large.
  • composition in the form of a W/O emulsion comprising:
  • the (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer may comprise at least one crosslinked silicone polymer with at least one hydrophilic moiety.
  • the hydrophilic moiety may comprise at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and/or at least one polyglyceryl chain.
  • the amount of the (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer in the composition may be from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may comprise cellulose, silica, silicate, perlite, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, or a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder in the composition may be from 0.01 to 20%) by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15%> by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder may have an oil absorbing capability of 200 ml/100 g or more, preferably 250 ml/100 g or more, and more preferably 300 ml/100 g or more.
  • the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder may be selected from the group consisting of hydrophobic silicas, especially silica silylate, polyamide (in particular Nylon-6) powders, powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, and a mixture thereof.
  • hydrophobic silicas especially silica silylate, polyamide (in particular Nylon-6) powders, powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, and a mixture thereof.
  • the amount of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder in the composition may be from 0.01 to 10%) by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (d) organomodified clay may be selected from organomodified bentonites,
  • the amount of the (d) organomodified clay in the composition may be from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder/the (d) organomodified clay be less than 3, more preferably 2 or less, and even more preferably 1 or less.
  • the amount of the (e) oil in the composition may be from 5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 50%> by weight, and more preferably from 15 to 30%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the (f) water in the composition may be from 30 to 70% by weight, preferably from 40 to 65%o by weight, and more preferably from 50 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin substance, preferably skin, comprising applying to the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention is in the form of a W/O emulsion, and comprises:
  • W/O emulsion or "water-in-oil emulsion” means any macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising a continuous fatty or oil phase and aqueous or water phases in the form of droplets dispersed in the said fatty or oil phase.
  • the composition according to the present invention can provide sufficient anti-sebum or anti-shine effects. Even when the amount of water in the composition according to the present invention becomes relatively large, they can provide sufficient anti-sebum or anti-shine effects. Further, the composition according to the present invention is stable, and can maintain its emulsified state for a long period of time. Furthermore, the hydrophilic oil absorbing powder can be well dispersed in the composition according to the present invention even when the amount of water in the composition increases. Since the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a W/O emulsion, the composition according to the present invention can also provide good resistance to water or sweat as well as a comfortable feeling to the touch and good spreadability.
  • the composition when the amount of water in the composition according to the present invention increases, the composition can provide a fresher sensation due to the relatively large amount of water.
  • composition according to the present invention includes at least one (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer. If two or more (a) emulsifying silicone elastomers are used, they may be the same or different.
  • silicone elastomer is intended to mean a partially or completely crosslinked
  • organopolysiloxane which is a flexible and deformable material having viscoelastic properties. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is capable of returning to its original shape following stretching.
  • emulsifying of "emulsifying silicone elastomer” means that the silicone elastomer is capable of emulsifying, or has a function as an emulsifier.
  • the (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer is generally introduced into the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention, and can be a part of this fatty phase.
  • the (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer used according to the present invention may be a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrophilic chain, it being possible for this chain to be in particular oxyalkylenated or glycerylated.
  • the (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer can therefore be chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain and/or one glycerylated chain.
  • the (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer comprise at least one crosslinked silicone polymer with at least one hydrophilic moiety.
  • the hydrophilic moiety may comprise at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and/or at least one polyglyceryl chain.
  • the silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain can be obtained in particular by addition reaction and crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon (Al), and of a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (B 1 ), in particular in the presence of a catalyst (C 1 ), in particular a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,236,986 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004.
  • Compound (Al) is the base compound for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking takes place via an addition reaction of compound (Al) with compound (Bl) in the presence of catalyst (CI).
  • Compound (Bl) is advantageously an oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated compound containing at least two vinyl groups in the ⁇ - ⁇ position of the silicone chain, which will react with Si-H bonds of compound (Al).
  • Compound (B 1) may in particular be a polyoxyalkylene (in particular
  • polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.
  • the organic groups linked to the silicon atoms of compound (Al) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • Compound (Al) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, cyclic climethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers and di-methylsiloxane- methymydrogenosiloxanelaurylrnethyl-siloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.
  • Compound (CI) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is in particular chosen from chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, cWoroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
  • the catalyst (CI) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (Al) and (Bl).
  • the silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain can be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
  • the silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain used according to the present invention, is preferably a silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyethylenated chain.
  • the silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain is preferably carried in the form of a gel in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil.
  • the (a) emulsifying silicone gel can be in the form of a gel.
  • the elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain is commonly in the form of nonspherical particles.
  • Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers were in particular described in documents U.S. Pat. No.
  • silicone elastomers comprising at least one oxyethylenated chain
  • use may in particular be made of those sold by the company Shin Etsu under the names of
  • PEG- 10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer such as those sold under the name of KSG-20 (at 100% in terms of active material,
  • Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer such as those sold under the name of KSG-210 (at 25% in terms of active material of silicone elastomer in silicone oil),
  • Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer such as those sold under the name ofKSG-240,
  • Isododecane (and) PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer such as those sold under the name of KSG-320,
  • Isododecane and) PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name of KSG-320Z,
  • Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG- 15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone crosspolymer such as those sold under the name of KSG-350Z,
  • Dimethicone (and) PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone crosspolymer such as those sold under the name of KSG-360Z, and KSG-380Z (25-45% in terms of active material of silicone elastomer in slilicone oil),
  • PEG- 12 dimethicone crosspolymer such as those sold under the name of DC9010 (at 11 % in terms of active material), and
  • Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG- 12 Dimethicone crosspolymer such as those sold under the name of DC9011 (at 91% in terms of active material).
  • These products are generally in the form of oily gels containing the particles of silicone elastomer.
  • Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer such as those sold under the name of KSG-210, PEG/15 lauryl dunethicone crosspolymer, such as sold under the name of KSG-320, and PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name ofKSG-380Z.
  • the (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer may also be chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one glycerylated chain.
  • the silicone elastomer comprising at least one glycerylated chain can be obtained in particular by addition reaction and crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon (A2) and of a polyglycerylated compound having ethylenically unsaturated groups (B2), in particular in the presence of a catalyst (C2), in particular a platinum catalyst.
  • the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of a polyglycerylated compound containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • Compound (A2) is the base compound for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking takes place via an addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B2) in the presence of catalyst (C2).
  • Compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms linked to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.
  • Compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25°C. ranging from 1 to 50000 centi-stokes, in particular so as to be readily miscible with compound (B2).
  • the organic groups linked to the silicon atoms of compound (A2) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.
  • Compound (A2) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane- methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethyl-siloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.
  • Compound (B2) may be a polyglycerylated compound corresponding to formula (B'2) below:
  • n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, preferentially from 2 to 50, better still from 2 to 20, even better still from 2 to 10, and even better still from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equal to 3; and Gly denotes: CH 2 -CH(OH)-CH 2 -0- or -CH 2 -CH(CH 2 OH)-0-
  • the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B2) and of the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A2) is at least 4. It is advantageous for compound (A2) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio of the total amount of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms in compound (A2) to the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B2) is within the range of from 1/1 to 20/1.
  • Compound (C2) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is in particular chosen from chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefrn complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
  • the catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A2) and (B2).
  • the silicone elastomer comprising at least one glycerylated chain used according to the present invention, is generally in the form of a gel as a mixture with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil.
  • the elastomer comprising at least one glycerylated chain is commonly in the form of non-spherical particles.
  • Such elastomers are in particular described in document WO-A-2004/024798.
  • silicone elastomer comprising at least one glycerylated chain
  • use may be made of those sold by the company Shin Etsu under the names of
  • Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer such as those sold under the name of KSG-710
  • Triethylhexanoin (and) Lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name ofKSG-830, and
  • the amount of the (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention includes at least one (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder with an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more. If two or more (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powders with an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder is capable of absorbing (and/or adsorbing) an oil or a liquid fatty substance, for instance sebum (from the skin).
  • the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder is in the form of particles.
  • the (primary) particle size of the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may be from 0.01 to 100 um, preferably from 0.05 to 70 um, and more preferably from 0.1 to 50 um.
  • the (primary) particle size can be measured by, for example, extracting and measuring from a photograph image obtained by SEM and the like, using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraclion particle size analyzer, and the like. It is preferable to use a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer.
  • the (primary) particle size is a number-average (primary) particle size.
  • the term "hydrophilic" oil absorbing powder means that said powder (or the particles) is individually dispersed in an aqueous phase in such manner that they do not form aggregates.
  • the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder has an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more, and even more preferably 250 ml/100 g or more.
  • the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may have an oil absorbing capacity ranging from 100 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 100 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 100 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g. Further, the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may have an oil absorbing capacity ranging from 150 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 150 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 150 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g.
  • the (b) hydrophUic oil absorbing powder may have an oil absorbing capacity ranging from 200 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 200 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 200 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g.
  • the amount of oil absorbed (and/or adsorbed) by the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may be characterized by measuring the wet point according to the method described below.
  • the oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • the amount of the absorbed (and/or adsorbed) oil can be measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of apowder described in standard ISO 787/5-1980. It corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed/adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder, by measuring the wet point.
  • isononyl isononanoate is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula.
  • the addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps.
  • the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used is then noted.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
  • the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may be of organic or inorganic nature.
  • the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder having oil absorption capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more may be chosen from celluloses, silicas, silicates; perlites; magnesium carbonate; magnesium hydroxide; and mixtures thereof. It is preferable that the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder comprise at least one selected from the group consisting of cellulose, silica, silicate, perlite, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide and a mixture thereof A person skilled in the art may select, among the following materials, (b) hydrophilic powders with an oil absorption capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, and more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more.
  • Celluloses that may be mentioned include, for example, the following spherical cellulose particles marketed by Daito Kasei in Japan: Cellulobeads USF (oil uptake is 250 ml/ 100 g) with a particle size of 4 um (porous cellulose).
  • Silica powders that may be mentioned include porous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the names Sunsphere® H53 and Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 370 ml/lOOg) by the company Asahi Glass; MSS-500-3H by the company Kobo; amorphous hollow silica particles, especially those sold under the name Silica Shells by the company Kobo (oil uptake equal to 550 ml/1 OOg); porous silica microsphere sold under the name of Sylysia 350 (oil uptake equal to 310 ml/lOOg) by the company Fuji Silysia Chemical; and silica powder sold under the name of Finesil X35 (oil uptake equal to 380 ml/100g)by the company Oriental Silycas.
  • porous silica microspheres especially those sold under the names Sunsphere® H53 and Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 370 ml/lOOg) by the company Asahi
  • a silicate that may especially mentioned is aluminum silicate which is sold under the name of Kyowaad® 700PEL (oil uptake equal to 195 ml/1 OOg) by the company Kyowa Chemical Industry.
  • a perlite powder that may especially be mentioned is the product sold under the name Optimat® 1430 OR and Optimat® 2550 OR by the company World Minerals (oil uptake equal to 240 ml/1 OOg).
  • a magnesium carbonate powder that may especially be mentioned is the product sold under the name Tipo Carbomagel® by the company Buschle & Lepper (oil uptake equal to 214 ml/1 OOg).
  • a magnesium carbonate/magnesium hydroxide powder that may especially be mentioned is the product of mMgC0 3 -Mg(OF3 ⁇ 4-nH 2 0 which is sold under the name of Mg Tube (oil uptake equal to 250-310 ml/100g)by the company Nittesu Mining.
  • hydrophilic oil absorbing powder (s) with an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/ 100 g or more may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from
  • 0.01% to 20% by weight preferably ranging from 0.1%> to 15% by weight and preferentially ranging from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention includes at least one (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder. If two or more (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powders are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder is capable of absorbing (and/or adsorbing) an oil or a liquid fatty substance, for instance sebum (from the skin).
  • the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder is in the form of particles.
  • the (primary) particle size of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder may be from 0.01 to 100 um, preferably from 0.05 to 70 um, and more preferably from 0.1 to 50 um.
  • the (primary) particle size can be measured by, for example, extracting and measuring from a photograph image obtained by SEM and the like, using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer, and the like. It is preferable to use a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer.
  • the (primary) particle size is a number-average (primary) particle size.
  • hydrophobic oil absorbing powder means that said powder (or the particles) is individually dispersed in an oily phase in such manner that they do not form aggregates.
  • This (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder can be present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the oil absorbing capacity of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder is not limited. It is preferable that the (c) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder have an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more, even more preferably 250 ml/100 g or more, and particularly preferably 300 ml/100 g or more.
  • the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder may have an oil absorbing capacity ranging from 100 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 100 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 100 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g.
  • the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may have an oil absorbing capacity ranging from 150 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 150 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 150 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g.
  • the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may have an oil absorbing capacity ranging from 200 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 200 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 200 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g.
  • the amount of oil absorbed (and/or adsorbed) by the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder may be characterized by measuring the wet point according to the method described below.
  • the oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • the amount of the absorbed (and/or adsorbed) oil can be measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard ISO 787/5-1980. It corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed/adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder, by measuring the wet point.
  • isononyl isononanoate is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula.
  • the addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps.
  • the volume Vs (expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used is then noted.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
  • the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder may be of organic or inorganic nature.
  • the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder may be chosen from hydrophobic silicas, polyamide (in particular Nylon-6) powders, powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer; and a mixture thereof.
  • the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder be selected from powders of hydrophobic silica, in particular hydrophobic silica silylate, and acrylic polymers, especially of polymethylmethacrylate.
  • the hydrophobic silica may have at least one hydrophobic coating.
  • the hydrophobic coating may be formed by a hydrophobic treatment agent which may be chosen especially from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the alurninium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty acids such as stearic acid
  • metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the alurninium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate
  • amino acids amino acids
  • N-acylamino acids or salts thereof lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the salts of these compounds may be duminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned previously especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • Examples of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder include fillers described below.
  • Silica powders that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 243 ml/1 OOg), precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax, such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax, and especially those sold under the name Acematt OR 412 by the company Evonik-Degussa (oil uptake equal to 398 ml/lOOg), and silica silylate sold under the name of VM-2270 (oil uptake equal to 1040 ml/1 OOg) by the company Dow Corning.
  • SA Sunsphere® H33 oil uptake equal to 243 ml/1 OOg
  • precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax
  • Acematt OR 412 by the company Evonik-Degussa
  • Acrylic polymer powders that may be mentioned include porous polymethyl methacrylate (TNCI name methyl methacrylate crosspolymer) such as the spheres sold under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Sensient, porous polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate spheres sold under the name Microsponge 5640 by the company Cardinal Health Technologies (oil uptake equal to 155 ml/ 1 OOg), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders, especially those sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 from the company Dow Corning (oil uptake equal to 656 ml/1 OOg), acrylonitrile/methyl methacrylate/vinylidene chloride copolymer sold under the name Expancel 551DE40D42 (oil uptake equal to 1040 ml/lOOg) by the company Akzo Novel.
  • Polyamide powders that may be mentioned include nylon-6 powder, especially the product sold under the
  • the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing agents(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention includes at least one (d) orgnomodified clay. If two or more (d) organomodified clays are used, they may be the same or different.
  • the organomodified clay means clays treated with organic compounds, especially selected from quaternary amines and tertiary amines. By exchanging the original interlayer cations for organocations (typically quaternary or tertiary alkylammonium ions), an organophilic surface is generated, comprising covalently linked organic moieties.
  • organomodified clay is different from the hydrophilic and hydrophobic oil absorbing powder. It is preferable that the (d) organomodified clay can thicken the fatty phase, in particular the (e) oil therein, of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the (d) organomodified clay be capable of gelling the fatty phase, in particular the (e) oil therein, of the composition according to the present invention. It may be preferable that the (d) organomodified clay be in the form of particles.
  • Organomodified clays that may be mentioned include organomodified bentonites and hectorites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, and organomodified hectorites such as the products sold under the names Bentone 27 (stearalkonium hectorite) and Bentone 38 (disteardimonium hectorite) by the company Rheox, and the name MR250 (stearalkonium bentonite) by the company BYK Additives & Instrumentals.
  • organomodified bentonites and hectorites such as the product sold under the name Bentone 34 by the company Rheox
  • organomodified hectorites such as the products sold under the names Bentone 27 (stearalkonium hectorite) and Bentone 38 (disteardimonium hectorite) by the company Rheox
  • MR250 stearalkonium bentonite
  • modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox), modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with a CIO to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38VCG by the company Elementis or the product sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by the company Rheox, or the product sold under the name Bentone Gel V55V by the company Elementis.
  • the (d) organomodified clay be chosen from organomodified bentonites, organomodified hectorites and mixtures thereof.
  • disteardimonium hectorite mention may be made of disteardimonium hectorite.
  • the (d) organomodified clay has been treated with compounds chosen especially from quaternary amines and tertiary amines.
  • the amount of the (d) organomodified clay in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • organomodified clay be less than 3, more preferably 2 or less, and even more preferably 1 or less. If the weight ratio of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder/the (d) organomodified clay is less than 3, the stability of the composition according to the present invention may be enhanced, or the composition according to the present invention may maintain a uniform emulsified state for a long period of time.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least one (e) oil. If two or more (e) oils are used, they may be the same or different. Since the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a W/O emulsion, the (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention can be the continuous outer phase in the W/O emulsion.
  • oils means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • oils those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • the oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
  • the oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
  • plant oils examples include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • animal oils mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
  • alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ester oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ether oils such as triglycerides
  • the ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched -C ⁇ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched CrC 26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • At least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
  • ethyl palmitate ethyl hexyl palmitate
  • isopropyl palmitate dicaprylyl carbonate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Q-Qa alcohols esters of
  • monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C 4 -C 26 di ydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C ⁇ -C ⁇ fatty acids.
  • sucrose means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 - C 3 o and preferably Ci 2 -C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
  • monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
  • Glucate® DO is sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
  • ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2- ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laur
  • artificial triglycerides mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripaknitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl
  • silicone oils mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
  • the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
  • PDMS liquid polydimethylsiloxanes
  • silicone oils may also be organomodified.
  • organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia,
  • dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:
  • Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
  • oils of the Mirasil ® series sold by the company Rhodia the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm 2 /s;
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • silicones containing aryl groups mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
  • the phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:
  • Ci-C 30 hydrocarbon-based radicals preferably Q-Ci 2 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and
  • n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive,
  • silicones of the PK series from Bayer such as the product PK20;
  • oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • the organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
  • Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C 6 -Ci 6 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as
  • hydrocarbon oils As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R may be chosen from Ci 2 -C 20 alkyl and C 12 -C 20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • fatty alcohol examples include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C 12 -C 20 alcohols.
  • saturated fatty alcohol here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • linear or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30 fatty alcohols linear or branched, saturated 2-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used.
  • Any linear or branched, saturated Ci 6 -C 2 o fatty alcohols may be more preferably used.
  • Branched C 16 -C2 0 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
  • saturated fatty alcohols mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof. It is preferable that the oil be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the oil in the composition according to the present invention may range from 5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (e) oil is in the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention. Since the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a W/O emulsion, the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention can be continuous as an outer phase of the W/O emulsion.
  • the fatty phase may include cinnamic derivatives, such as Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold especially under the trade name Parsol MCX by DSM Nutritional Products, Isopropyl
  • methoxycinnamate Isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Symrise, Cinoxate, and Diisopropyl methylcinnamate.
  • the amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10 to 80%) by weight, preferably from 15% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 40 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention includes (f) water.
  • the (f) water is in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention is in the form of a W/O emulsion
  • aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention can be dispersed as inner phases in the W/O emulsion.
  • the amount of the (f) water may be from 30 to 70% by weight, preferably from 40 to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 50 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.
  • the amount of the optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20%> by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
  • the optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants; UV filters; peptides and derivatives thereof; protein hydrolyzates; swelling agents and penetrating agents; agents for combating hair loss; anti-dandruff agents; natural or synthetic thickeners for oils except for the ingredient (d); suspending agents; sequestering agents; opacifying agents; dyes; sunscreen agents; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; preserving agents, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof.
  • the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention may include, in addition to water, one or several cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol andphenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and butylene glycol; other polyols such as glycerol, sugar and sugar alcohols; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers.
  • the organic solvent(s) may then be present in a concentration of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may preferably be used as a cosmetic composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto a keratin substance such as skin, scalp and/or lips, preferably the skin.
  • the composition according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process for the skin.
  • the composition according to the present invention includes at least one UV filter, it can also function as a composition intended for absorbing ultraviolet light, and/or for protecting a keratin substance especially of human from ultraviolet radiation. It is well known in the art that protection of the keratin substance from ultraviolet radiation results in anti-ageing, anti-vvrinkling, and moisturizing effects. Accordingly, the composition of the present invention can further constitute a composition intended for anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle and/or moistiirizing effects.
  • the cosmetic process or cosmetic use for a keratin substance such as skin, according to the present invention comprises, at least, the step of applying onto the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention.
  • the cosmetic process or cosmetic use according to the present invention can provide anti-sebum effects or anti-shine effects due to the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder and/or (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder in the composition according to the present invention.
  • the cosmetic process or cosmetic use according to the present invention can also relate to a method of protecting a keratin substance from ultraviolet radiation comprising applying to the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention, as well as a method of absorbing ultraviolet light comprising applying the composition according to the present invention and subj ecting the keratin substance to ultraviolet light.
  • these methods can be defined as non-therapeutic methods,
  • Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-5 The following compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-5, shown in Table 1 , were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 at room temperature. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight' as active raw materials.
  • compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-5 were evaluated as follows.
  • compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-5 just after the preparation thereof were subjected to visual observation at room temperature (25°C).
  • Dispersability of hydrophilic oil absorbing powder was checked by visual observation after 1 day from emulsion preparation. If the dispersability of hydrophilic powder is wrong, it makes agglomeration in the formula.
  • compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 can avoid the agglomeration of hydrophilic oil absorbing powder, and therefore, the powder can be well dispersed in the compositions.
  • compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-5 do not include one selected from the (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer; (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder with an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more; (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder; and (d) organomodified clay. Therefore, these compositions cannot maintain the form of a W/O emulsion (Comparative Examples 1 and 2), cannot show anti-sebum or anti-shine effects (Comparative Examples 3 and 4), or cannot show enough dispersability of hydrophilic oil absorbing powder (Comparative Example 5).

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a W/O emulsion, comprising: (a) at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer; (b) at least one hydrophilic oil absorbing powder with an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/ 100 g or more, and more preferably 200 ml/ 100 g or more; (c) at least one hydrophobic oil absorbing powder; (d) at least one organomodified clay; (e) at least one oil; and (f) water. The composition according to the present invention can provide sufficient anti-sebum or anti-shine effects. Even when the amount of water in the composition according to the present invention becomes relatively large, they can provide sufficient anti-sebum or anti-shine effects.

Description

DESCRIPTION
WATER-IN-OIL EMULSION COMPOSITION
TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion, more particularly to a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin. BACKGROUND ART
It is known practice, in the cosmetics or dermatological field, to use W/O emulsions. These emulsions which consist of an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase have an external fatty phase, and therefore cosmetic/dermatological products based on the W/O emulsions can provide a comfortable feeling to the touch.
W/O emulsions which include a relatively large amount of water are called high internal phase W/O emulsions. In general, high internal phase W/O emulsions can provide a fresher sensation due to the relatively large amount of water, in addition to good resistance to water or sweat due to the external fatty phase of the emulsions.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
However, it may be difficult to obtain W/O emulsions which can show sufficient anti-sebum or anti-shine effects if the amount of water in the W/O emulsions becomes relatively large, because they may not be able to contain a sufficient amount of oil-absorbing powders which are typically hydrophobic due to the relatively small amount of the fatty phase in the W/O emulsions. An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition in the form of a W/O emulsion which can provide sufficient anti-sebum or anti-shine effects even when the amount of water in the W/O emulsions becomes relatively large.
The above objective can be achieved by a composition in the form of a W/O emulsion, comprising:
(a) at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer;
(b) at least one hydrophilic oil absorbing powder with an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, and more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more;
(c) at least one hydrophobic oil absorbing powder;
(d) at least one organomodified clay which is different from the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder and the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder;
(e) at least one oil; and
(f) water.
The (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer may comprise at least one crosslinked silicone polymer with at least one hydrophilic moiety. The hydrophilic moiety may comprise at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and/or at least one polyglyceryl chain. The amount of the (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer in the composition may be from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may comprise cellulose, silica, silicate, perlite, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, or a mixture thereof.
The amount of the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder in the composition may be from 0.01 to 20%) by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15%> by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder may have an oil absorbing capability of 200 ml/100 g or more, preferably 250 ml/100 g or more, and more preferably 300 ml/100 g or more.
The (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder may be selected from the group consisting of hydrophobic silicas, especially silica silylate, polyamide (in particular Nylon-6) powders, powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, and a mixture thereof.
The amount of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder in the composition may be from 0.01 to 10%) by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1%) by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The (d) organomodified clay may be selected from organomodified bentonites,
organomodified hectorites, and mixtures thereof. The amount of the (d) organomodified clay in the composition may be from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is preferable that the weight ratio of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder/the (d) organomodified clay be less than 3, more preferably 2 or less, and even more preferably 1 or less.
The amount of the (e) oil in the composition may be from 5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 20 to 50%> by weight, and more preferably from 15 to 30%> by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The amount of the (f) water in the composition may be from 30 to 70% by weight, preferably from 40 to 65%o by weight, and more preferably from 50 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for a keratin substance, preferably skin, comprising applying to the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION After diligent research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition in the form of a W/O emulsion which can provide sufficient anti-sebum or anti-shine effects even when the amount of water in the W/O emulsions becomes relatively large.
Thus, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a W/O emulsion, and comprises:
(a) at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer;
( ) at least one hydrophilic oil absorbing powder with an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, and more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more;
(c) at least one hydrophobic oil absorbing powder;
(d) at least one organomodified clay which is different from the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder and the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder;
(e) at least one oil; and
(f) water.
The term "W/O emulsion" or "water-in-oil emulsion" means any macroscopically homogeneous composition comprising a continuous fatty or oil phase and aqueous or water phases in the form of droplets dispersed in the said fatty or oil phase.
The composition according to the present invention can provide sufficient anti-sebum or anti-shine effects. Even when the amount of water in the composition according to the present invention becomes relatively large, they can provide sufficient anti-sebum or anti-shine effects. Further, the composition according to the present invention is stable, and can maintain its emulsified state for a long period of time. Furthermore, the hydrophilic oil absorbing powder can be well dispersed in the composition according to the present invention even when the amount of water in the composition increases. Since the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a W/O emulsion, the composition according to the present invention can also provide good resistance to water or sweat as well as a comfortable feeling to the touch and good spreadability.
In addition, when the amount of water in the composition according to the present invention increases, the composition can provide a fresher sensation due to the relatively large amount of water.
Hereafter, the composition according to the present invention will be described in a detailed manner. [Emulsifying Silicone Elastomer]
The composition according to the present invention includes at least one (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer. If two or more (a) emulsifying silicone elastomers are used, they may be the same or different. The term "silicone elastomer" is intended to mean a partially or completely crosslinked
organopolysiloxane, which is a flexible and deformable material having viscoelastic properties. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is capable of returning to its original shape following stretching. The term "emulsifying" of "emulsifying silicone elastomer" means that the silicone elastomer is capable of emulsifying, or has a function as an emulsifier.
The (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer is generally introduced into the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention, and can be a part of this fatty phase.
The (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer used according to the present invention may be a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprising at least one hydrophilic chain, it being possible for this chain to be in particular oxyalkylenated or glycerylated. The (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer can therefore be chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain and/or one glycerylated chain.
It is preferable that the (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer comprise at least one crosslinked silicone polymer with at least one hydrophilic moiety. The hydrophilic moiety may comprise at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and/or at least one polyglyceryl chain.
The silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain can be obtained in particular by addition reaction and crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each linked to a silicon (Al), and of a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (B 1 ), in particular in the presence of a catalyst (C 1 ), in particular a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in documents U.S. Pat. No. 5,236,986 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004.
Compound (Al) is the base compound for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking takes place via an addition reaction of compound (Al) with compound (Bl) in the presence of catalyst (CI).
Compound (Bl) is advantageously an oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated compound containing at least two vinyl groups in the α-ω position of the silicone chain, which will react with Si-H bonds of compound (Al). Compound (B 1) may in particular be a polyoxyalkylene (in particular
polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.
The organic groups linked to the silicon atoms of compound (Al) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
Compound (Al) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, cyclic climethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers and di-methylsiloxane- methymydrogenosiloxanelaurylrnethyl-siloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.
Compound (CI) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is in particular chosen from chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, cWoroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
The catalyst (CI) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (Al) and (Bl). In particular, the silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain can be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of platinum catalyst.
The silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain, used according to the present invention, is preferably a silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyethylenated chain. In addition, the silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain is preferably carried in the form of a gel in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. Thus, the (a) emulsifying silicone gel can be in the form of a gel. In these gels, the elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain is commonly in the form of nonspherical particles. Polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers were in particular described in documents U.S. Pat. No.
5,236,986, U.S. Pat. No. 5,412,004, U.S. Pat. No. 5,837,793 and U.S. Pat. No. 5,811,487, the content of which is incorporated by way of reference.
As silicone elastomers comprising at least one oxyethylenated chain, use may in particular be made of those sold by the company Shin Etsu under the names of
Dimethicone PEG-10 Dimethicone vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer , such as those sold under the name of KSG-21 (at 27% in terms of active material),
PEG- 10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name of KSG-20 (at 100% in terms of active material,
Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name of KSG-210 (at 25% in terms of active material of silicone elastomer in silicone oil),
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name ofKSG-240,
Mineral oil (and) PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name of KSG-310,
Isododecane (and) PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name of KSG-320,
Isododecane (and) PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name of KSG-320Z,
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG- 15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name of KSG-350Z,
Dimethicone (and) PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name of KSG-360Z, and KSG-380Z (25-45% in terms of active material of silicone elastomer in slilicone oil),
or
those sold by the company Dow Corning under the names of
PEG- 12 dimethicone crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name of DC9010 (at 11 % in terms of active material), and
Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG- 12 Dimethicone crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name of DC9011 (at 91% in terms of active material).
These products are generally in the form of oily gels containing the particles of silicone elastomer.
Use is preferably made of Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name of KSG-210, PEG/15 lauryl dunethicone crosspolymer, such as sold under the name of KSG-320, and PEG-15/lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name ofKSG-380Z.
The (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer may also be chosen from silicone elastomers comprising at least one glycerylated chain.
The silicone elastomer comprising at least one glycerylated chain can be obtained in particular by addition reaction and crosslinking of a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen linked to the silicon (A2) and of a polyglycerylated compound having ethylenically unsaturated groups (B2), in particular in the presence of a catalyst (C2), in particular a platinum catalyst.
In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of a polyglycerylated compound containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
Compound (A2) is the base compound for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking takes place via an addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B2) in the presence of catalyst (C2). Compound (A2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms linked to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule. Compound (A2) may have a viscosity at 25°C. ranging from 1 to 50000 centi-stokes, in particular so as to be readily miscible with compound (B2).
The organic groups linked to the silicon atoms of compound (A2) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.
Compound (A2) may thus be chosen from methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane- methylhydrogenosiloxane-laurylmethyl-siloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups.
Compound (B2) may be a polyglycerylated compound corresponding to formula (B'2) below:
CmH2m-1-0-[Gly]n-<^H2m-1 (B'2) in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, preferentially from 2 to 50, better still from 2 to 20, even better still from 2 to 10, and even better still from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equal to 3; and Gly denotes: CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-0- or -CH2-CH(CH2OH)-0-
Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B2) and of the number of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A2) is at least 4. It is advantageous for compound (A2) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio of the total amount of hydrogen atoms linked to silicon atoms in compound (A2) to the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B2) is within the range of from 1/1 to 20/1. Compound (C2) is the crosslinking reaction catalyst, and is in particular chosen from chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefrn complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
The catalyst (C2) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A2) and (B2).
The silicone elastomer comprising at least one glycerylated chain, used according to the present invention, is generally in the form of a gel as a mixture with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the elastomer comprising at least one glycerylated chain is commonly in the form of non-spherical particles.
Such elastomers are in particular described in document WO-A-2004/024798. As silicone elastomer comprising at least one glycerylated chain, use may be made of those sold by the company Shin Etsu under the names of
Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name of KSG-710
(containing 25% active material),
Mineral oil (and) Lauryl <limethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name ofKSG-810,
Isododecane (and) Lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name of KSG-820,
Triethylhexanoin (and) Lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name ofKSG-830, and
Squalane (and) Lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, such as those sold under the name of KSG-840.
The amount of the (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Hydrophilic Oil Absorbing Powder]
The composition according to the present invention includes at least one (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder with an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more. If two or more (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powders with an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more are used, they may be the same or different.
The (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder is capable of absorbing (and/or adsorbing) an oil or a liquid fatty substance, for instance sebum (from the skin).
The (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder is in the form of particles. The (primary) particle size of the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may be from 0.01 to 100 um, preferably from 0.05 to 70 um, and more preferably from 0.1 to 50 um. The (primary) particle size can be measured by, for example, extracting and measuring from a photograph image obtained by SEM and the like, using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraclion particle size analyzer, and the like. It is preferable to use a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer. In this case, the (primary) particle size is a number-average (primary) particle size. For the purpose of the invention, the term "hydrophilic" oil absorbing powder means that said powder (or the particles) is individually dispersed in an aqueous phase in such manner that they do not form aggregates.
The (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder has an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more, and even more preferably 250 ml/100 g or more.
The (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may have an oil absorbing capacity ranging from 100 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 100 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 100 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g. Further, the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may have an oil absorbing capacity ranging from 150 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 150 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 150 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g. Furthermore, the (b) hydrophUic oil absorbing powder may have an oil absorbing capacity ranging from 200 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 200 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 200 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g.
The amount of oil absorbed (and/or adsorbed) by the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may be characterized by measuring the wet point according to the method described below. The oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
The amount of the absorbed (and/or adsorbed) oil can be measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of apowder described in standard ISO 787/5-1980. It corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed/adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder, by measuring the wet point.
An amount m (in grams) of the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder of between about 0.5 g and about 5 g (the amount depends on the density of the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder, but typically 2 g) is placed on a glass plate and isononyl isononanoate is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of purified linseed oil, the isononyl isononanoate is incorporated into the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder using a spatula, and addition of the isononyl isononanoate is continued until a conglomerate of isononyl isononanoate and powder has formed. At this point, the isononyl isononanoate is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used is then noted.
The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m. The (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may be of organic or inorganic nature.
The (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder having oil absorption capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more may be chosen from celluloses, silicas, silicates; perlites; magnesium carbonate; magnesium hydroxide; and mixtures thereof. It is preferable that the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder comprise at least one selected from the group consisting of cellulose, silica, silicate, perlite, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide and a mixture thereof A person skilled in the art may select, among the following materials, (b) hydrophilic powders with an oil absorption capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, and more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more.
Celluloses that may be mentioned include, for example, the following spherical cellulose particles marketed by Daito Kasei in Japan: Cellulobeads USF (oil uptake is 250 ml/ 100 g) with a particle size of 4 um (porous cellulose).
Silica powders that may be mentioned include porous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the names Sunsphere® H53 and Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 370 ml/lOOg) by the company Asahi Glass; MSS-500-3H by the company Kobo; amorphous hollow silica particles, especially those sold under the name Silica Shells by the company Kobo (oil uptake equal to 550 ml/1 OOg); porous silica microsphere sold under the name of Sylysia 350 (oil uptake equal to 310 ml/lOOg) by the company Fuji Silysia Chemical; and silica powder sold under the name of Finesil X35 (oil uptake equal to 380 ml/100g)by the company Oriental Silycas.
A silicate that may especially mentioned is aluminum silicate which is sold under the name of Kyowaad® 700PEL (oil uptake equal to 195 ml/1 OOg) by the company Kyowa Chemical Industry.
A perlite powder that may especially be mentioned is the product sold under the name Optimat® 1430 OR and Optimat® 2550 OR by the company World Minerals (oil uptake equal to 240 ml/1 OOg).
A magnesium carbonate powder that may especially be mentioned is the product sold under the name Tipo Carbomagel® by the company Buschle & Lepper (oil uptake equal to 214 ml/1 OOg). A magnesium carbonate/magnesium hydroxide powder that may especially be mentioned is the product of mMgC03-Mg(OF¾-nH20 which is sold under the name of Mg Tube (oil uptake equal to 250-310 ml/100g)by the company Nittesu Mining.
The (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder (s) with an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/ 100 g or more may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from
0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1%> to 15% by weight and preferentially ranging from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Hydrophobic Oil Absorbing Powder]
The composition according to the present invention includes at least one (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder. If two or more (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powders are used, they may be the same or different. The (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder is capable of absorbing (and/or adsorbing) an oil or a liquid fatty substance, for instance sebum (from the skin).
The (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder is in the form of particles. The (primary) particle size of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder may be from 0.01 to 100 um, preferably from 0.05 to 70 um, and more preferably from 0.1 to 50 um. The (primary) particle size can be measured by, for example, extracting and measuring from a photograph image obtained by SEM and the like, using a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer, and the like. It is preferable to use a particle size analyzer such as a laser diffraction particle size analyzer. In this case, the (primary) particle size is a number-average (primary) particle size.
For the purpose of the invention, the term "hydrophobic" oil absorbing powder means that said powder (or the particles) is individually dispersed in an oily phase in such manner that they do not form aggregates. This (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder can be present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention.
The oil absorbing capacity of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder is not limited. It is preferable that the (c) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder have an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more, even more preferably 250 ml/100 g or more, and particularly preferably 300 ml/100 g or more.
The (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder may have an oil absorbing capacity ranging from 100 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 100 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 100 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g. Further, the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may have an oil absorbing capacity ranging from 150 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 150 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 150 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g. Furthermore, the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder may have an oil absorbing capacity ranging from 200 ml/100 g to 2000 ml/100 g, preferably from 200 ml/100 g to 1500 ml/100 g, and more preferably from 200 ml/100 g to 1000 ml/100 g.
The amount of oil absorbed (and/or adsorbed) by the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder may be characterized by measuring the wet point according to the method described below. The oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point, noted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that needs to be added to 100 g of particle in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
The amount of the absorbed (and/or adsorbed) oil can be measured according to the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard ISO 787/5-1980. It corresponds to the amount of oil absorbed/adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder, by measuring the wet point.
An amount m (in grams) of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder of between about 0.5 g and about 5 g (the amount depends on the density of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder, but typically 2 g) is placed on a glass plate and isononyl isononanoate is then added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of purified linseed oil, the isononyl isononanoate is incorporated into the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder using a spatula, and addition of the isononyl isononanoate is continued until a conglomerate of isononyl isononanoate and powder has formed. At this point, the isononyl isononanoate is added one drop at a time and the mixture is then triturated with the spatula. The addition of isononyl isononanoate is stopped when a firm, smooth paste is obtained. This paste must be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of isononyl isononanoate used is then noted.
The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m. The (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder may be of organic or inorganic nature. The (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder may be chosen from hydrophobic silicas, polyamide (in particular Nylon-6) powders, powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, of polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer; and a mixture thereof.
It may be preferable that the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder be selected from powders of hydrophobic silica, in particular hydrophobic silica silylate, and acrylic polymers, especially of polymethylmethacrylate.
The hydrophobic silica may have at least one hydrophobic coating.
The hydrophobic coating may be formed by a hydrophobic treatment agent which may be chosen especially from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metal soaps such as aluminium dimyristate, the alurninium salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, mineral waxes, and mixtures thereof.
The N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be duminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds mentioned previously especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
Examples of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder include fillers described below.
Silica powders that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxane-coated amorphous silica microspheres, especially those sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H33 (oil uptake equal to 243 ml/1 OOg), precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax, such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax, and especially those sold under the name Acematt OR 412 by the company Evonik-Degussa (oil uptake equal to 398 ml/lOOg), and silica silylate sold under the name of VM-2270 (oil uptake equal to 1040 ml/1 OOg) by the company Dow Corning.
Acrylic polymer powders that may be mentioned include porous polymethyl methacrylate (TNCI name methyl methacrylate crosspolymer) such as the spheres sold under the name Covabead LH85 by the company Sensient, porous polymethyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate spheres sold under the name Microsponge 5640 by the company Cardinal Health Technologies (oil uptake equal to 155 ml/ 1 OOg), ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer powders, especially those sold under the name Polytrap® 6603 from the company Dow Corning (oil uptake equal to 656 ml/1 OOg), acrylonitrile/methyl methacrylate/vinylidene chloride copolymer sold under the name Expancel 551DE40D42 (oil uptake equal to 1040 ml/lOOg) by the company Akzo Novel. Polyamide powders that may be mentioned include nylon-6 powder, especially the product sold under the name Pomp610 by the company UBE Industries (oil uptake equal to 202 ml/lOOg).
The (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing agents(s) may be present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 5% by weight and preferentially ranging from 0.1 % to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Organomodified Clay]
The composition according to the present invention includes at least one (d) orgnomodified clay. If two or more (d) organomodified clays are used, they may be the same or different.
The organomodified clay means clays treated with organic compounds, especially selected from quaternary amines and tertiary amines. By exchanging the original interlayer cations for organocations (typically quaternary or tertiary alkylammonium ions), an organophilic surface is generated, comprising covalently linked organic moieties. The organomodified clay is different from the hydrophilic and hydrophobic oil absorbing powder. It is preferable that the (d) organomodified clay can thicken the fatty phase, in particular the (e) oil therein, of the composition according to the present invention. In other words, it is preferable that the (d) organomodified clay be capable of gelling the fatty phase, in particular the (e) oil therein, of the composition according to the present invention. It may be preferable that the (d) organomodified clay be in the form of particles.
Organomodified clays that may be mentioned include organomodified bentonites and hectorites, such as the product sold under the name Bentone 34 by the company Rheox, and organomodified hectorites such as the products sold under the names Bentone 27 (stearalkonium hectorite) and Bentone 38 (disteardimonium hectorite) by the company Rheox, and the name MR250 (stearalkonium bentonite) by the company BYK Additives & Instrumentals.
Mention may be made especially of modified clays such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox), modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with a CIO to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, for instance hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone 38VCG by the company Elementis or the product sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by the company Rheox, or the product sold under the name Bentone Gel V55V by the company Elementis. It is preferable that the (d) organomodified clay be chosen from organomodified bentonites, organomodified hectorites and mixtures thereof. As the (d) organomodified clay, mention may be made of disteardimonium hectorite.
It is preferable that the (d) organomodified clay has been treated with compounds chosen especially from quaternary amines and tertiary amines.
The amount of the (d) organomodified clay in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 1.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is preferable that the weight ratio of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder/the (d)
organomodified clay be less than 3, more preferably 2 or less, and even more preferably 1 or less. If the weight ratio of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder/the (d) organomodified clay is less than 3, the stability of the composition according to the present invention may be enhanced, or the composition according to the present invention may maintain a uniform emulsified state for a long period of time.
[Oil]
The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one (e) oil. If two or more (e) oils are used, they may be the same or different. Since the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a W/O emulsion, the (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention can be the continuous outer phase in the W/O emulsion.
Here, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or nonvolatile.
The oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
As examples of plant oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, com oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
As examples of synthetic oils, mention may be made of alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched -C^ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched CrC26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.
Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Q-Qa alcohols, and esters of
monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C4-C26 di ydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
Mention may especially be made of: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2- ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
As ester oils, one can use sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C^-C^ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned include sucrose (or saccharose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
The sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6- C3o and preferably Ci2-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
The esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
More particularly, use is made of monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates. An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2- ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2- ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripaknitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl
tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).
As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia,
decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as
dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:
D" - D' · D" - D'
CH, CH3 with D" : ~~
Figure imgf000016_0001
Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and
tetratrimemylsUylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the rnixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy- 1 , Γ -bis(2,2,2' ,2' ,3 ,3 ' -hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and
(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 χ 10^ m2/s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.
Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of
polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products:
the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
- the oils of the Mirasil® series sold by the company Rhodia; the oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60000 mm2/s; and
the Viscasil® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia
Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyl silicone oil.
The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of the following formula:
Figure imgf000017_0001
in which
Ri to Rio, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably Q-Ci2 hydrocarbon-based radicals, and more preferably Ci-C6 hydrocarbon-based radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and
m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably 0 to 500 inclusive, and more preferably 0 to 100 inclusive,
with the proviso that the sum n+m+q is other than 0.
Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
the Silbione® oils of the 70 641 series from Rhodia
- the oils of the Rhodorsil® 70633 and 763 series from Rhodia;
the oil Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning;
the silicones of the PK series from Bayer, such as the product PK20;
certain oils of the SF series from General Electric, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
As the phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (Ri to Rio are methyl; p, q, and n = 0; m=l in the above formula) is preferable.
The organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils Silwet® L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
Hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from: linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-Ci6 lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as
Parleam®, and squalane.
As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
The term "fatty" in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols. The fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. The fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be chosen from Ci2-C20 alkyl and C12-C20 alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
As examples of the fatty alcohol, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
Thus, the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C6-C30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C12-C20 alcohols. The term "saturated fatty alcohol" here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C6-C30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated 2-C20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated Ci6-C2o fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C16-C20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
As examples of saturated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.
According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof. It is preferable that the oil be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof.
The amount of the oil in the composition according to the present invention may range from 5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The (e) oil is in the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention. Since the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a W/O emulsion, the fatty phase of the composition according to the present invention can be continuous as an outer phase of the W/O emulsion.
The fatty phase may include cinnamic derivatives, such as Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold especially under the trade name Parsol MCX by DSM Nutritional Products, Isopropyl
methoxycinnamate, Isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Symrise, Cinoxate, and Diisopropyl methylcinnamate.
The amount of the fatty phase in the composition according to the present invention may range from 10 to 80%) by weight, preferably from 15% to 60% by weight, and more preferably from 20 to 40 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Water] The composition according to the present invention includes (f) water.
The (f) water is in the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention.
Since the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a W/O emulsion, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention can be dispersed as inner phases in the W/O emulsion.
The amount of the (f) water may be from 30 to 70% by weight, preferably from 40 to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 50 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Other Ingredients]
The composition according to the present invention may also include at least one optional or additional ingredient.
The amount of the optional or additional ingredient(s) is not limited, but may be from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20%> by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention. The optional or additional ingredient(s) may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers; anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric surfactants; UV filters; peptides and derivatives thereof; protein hydrolyzates; swelling agents and penetrating agents; agents for combating hair loss; anti-dandruff agents; natural or synthetic thickeners for oils except for the ingredient (d); suspending agents; sequestering agents; opacifying agents; dyes; sunscreen agents; vitamins or provitamins; fragrances; preserving agents, stabilizers; and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention may include, in addition to water, one or several cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol andphenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, and butylene glycol; other polyols such as glycerol, sugar and sugar alcohols; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ether, and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers. The organic solvent(s) may then be present in a concentration of from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[Cosmetic Process]
The composition according to the present invention may preferably be used as a cosmetic composition. In particular, the composition according to the present invention may be intended for application onto a keratin substance such as skin, scalp and/or lips, preferably the skin. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can be used for a cosmetic process for the skin.
If the composition according to the present invention includes at least one UV filter, it can also function as a composition intended for absorbing ultraviolet light, and/or for protecting a keratin substance especially of human from ultraviolet radiation. It is well known in the art that protection of the keratin substance from ultraviolet radiation results in anti-ageing, anti-vvrinkling, and moisturizing effects. Accordingly, the composition of the present invention can further constitute a composition intended for anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle and/or moistiirizing effects.
The cosmetic process or cosmetic use for a keratin substance such as skin, according to the present invention comprises, at least, the step of applying onto the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention.
The cosmetic process or cosmetic use according to the present invention can provide anti-sebum effects or anti-shine effects due to the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder and/or (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder in the composition according to the present invention.
If the composition according to the present invention includes at least one UV filter, the cosmetic process or cosmetic use according to the present invention can also relate to a method of protecting a keratin substance from ultraviolet radiation comprising applying to the keratin substance the composition according to the present invention, as well as a method of absorbing ultraviolet light comprising applying the composition according to the present invention and subj ecting the keratin substance to ultraviolet light. These methods can be defined as non-therapeutic methods,
EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in a more detailed manner by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention. The examples below are presented as non-limiting illustrations in the field of the present invention.
[Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-5] The following compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-5, shown in Table 1 , were prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 at room temperature. The numerical values for the amounts of the ingredients shown in Table 1 are all based on "% by weight' as active raw materials.
Table I
Figure imgf000022_0001
NA: Not Available
AG: Agglomerated
[Evaluations]
The compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-5 were evaluated as follows.
(Emulsification)
The compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-5 just after the preparation thereof were subjected to visual observation at room temperature (25°C).
If the composition maintained a uniform emulsified state, the composition was evaluated as "OK". On the other hand, if the composition could not maintain a uniform emulsified state, forming separate phases, the composition was evaluated as "NG". The results are shown in Table 1.
(Dispersability of hydrophilic oil absorbing powder)
Dispersability of hydrophilic oil absorbing powder was checked by visual observation after 1 day from emulsion preparation. If the dispersability of hydrophilic powder is wrong, it makes agglomeration in the formula.
The results are shown in Table 1. (In vitro anti-sebum shine test)
3.0 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-5 and 0.5 g of oleic acid were mixed well at room temperature (25°C). The mixture thus obtained was applied onto a transparent plastic film, and left for 10 minutes at 37°C. The gloss intensity on the surface of the film was measured with a glossmeter (CM-2600d, Konica Minolta) by reflection intensity at 60 degree of incidence angle (60° gloss). The lower the 60° gloss is, the smaller the shine on the surface of the film is.
The results are shown in Table 1.
It is clear from the comparison of Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-5 in Table 1 that a combination of (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer; (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder with an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more; (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder; and (d) organomodified clay is necessary to prepare a W/O emulsion which has sufficient anti-sebum or anti-shine effects.
In addition, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 can avoid the agglomeration of hydrophilic oil absorbing powder, and therefore, the powder can be well dispersed in the compositions.
The compositions according to Comparative Examples 1-5 do not include one selected from the (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer; (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder with an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more; (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder; and (d) organomodified clay. Therefore, these compositions cannot maintain the form of a W/O emulsion (Comparative Examples 1 and 2), cannot show anti-sebum or anti-shine effects (Comparative Examples 3 and 4), or cannot show enough dispersability of hydrophilic oil absorbing powder (Comparative Example 5).

Claims

A composition in the form of a W/O emulsion, comprising:
(a) at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer;
(b) at least one hydrophilic oil absorbing powder with an oil absorbing capacity of 100 ml/100 g or more, preferably 150 ml/100 g or more, and more preferably 200 ml/100 g or more;
(c) at least one hydrophobic oil absorbing powder;
(d) at least one organomodified clay which is different from the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder and the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder;
(e) at least one oil; and
(f) water.
The composition according to Claim 1, wherein the (a) emulsifying silicone elastomer comprises at least one crosslinked silicone polymer with at least one hydrophilic moiety.
The composition according to Claim 2, wherein the hydrophilic moiety comprises at least one polyoxyalkylene chain and/or at least one polyglyceryl chain.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the
(a) emulsifying silicone elastomer in the composition is from 0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the (b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder comprises cellulose, silica, silicate, perlite, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, or a mixture thereof.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the amount of the
(b) hydrophilic oil absorbing powder in the composition is from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, wherein the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder has an oil absorbing capability of 200 ml/ 100 g or more, preferably 250 ml/100 g or more, and more preferably 300 ml/100 g or more.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder is selected from the group consisting of hydrophobic silicas, especially silica silylate, polyamide (in particular Nylon-6) powders, powders of acrylic polymers, especially of polymethyl methacrylate, of polymethyl
methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, of polyallyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, and a mixture thereof.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of the
(c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder in the composition is from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, wherein the (d)
organomodified clay is selected from organomodified bentonites, organomodified hectorites, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, wherein the amount of the
(d) organomodified clay in the composition is from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 11 , wherein the weight ratio of the (c) hydrophobic oil absorbing powder/the (d) organomodified clay is less than 3, preferably 2 or less, and more preferably 1 or less.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the amount of the
(e) oil in the composition is from 5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 10 to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the amount of the
(f) water in the composition is from 30 to 70% by weight, preferably from 40 to 65% by weight, and more preferably from 50 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
A cosmetic process for a keratin substance, preferably skin, comprising applying to the keratin substance the composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14.
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