EP3437507A1 - Oberteil form und verfahren zur herstellung eines schuhs mit dieser oberteil - Google Patents

Oberteil form und verfahren zur herstellung eines schuhs mit dieser oberteil Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3437507A1
EP3437507A1 EP18186399.4A EP18186399A EP3437507A1 EP 3437507 A1 EP3437507 A1 EP 3437507A1 EP 18186399 A EP18186399 A EP 18186399A EP 3437507 A1 EP3437507 A1 EP 3437507A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
shoe upper
manufacturing process
lining
rigid reinforcement
upper form
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP18186399.4A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Maurizio ROMANELLI
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Calzaturificio Bieffegi Srl
Original Assignee
Calzaturificio Bieffegi Srl
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Calzaturificio Bieffegi Srl filed Critical Calzaturificio Bieffegi Srl
Publication of EP3437507A1 publication Critical patent/EP3437507A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D8/00—Machines for cutting, ornamenting, marking or otherwise working up shoe part blanks
    • A43D8/003—Machines for cutting, ornamenting, marking or otherwise working up shoe part blanks specially adapted for forming upper blanks or leggings by stretching
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D8/00—Machines for cutting, ornamenting, marking or otherwise working up shoe part blanks
    • A43D8/02—Cutting-out
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D8/00—Machines for cutting, ornamenting, marking or otherwise working up shoe part blanks
    • A43D8/02—Cutting-out
    • A43D8/04—Stamping-out
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D8/00—Machines for cutting, ornamenting, marking or otherwise working up shoe part blanks
    • A43D8/02—Cutting-out
    • A43D8/10—Cutting-out using pattern grading
    • A43D8/12—Patterns or templates therefor
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D8/00—Machines for cutting, ornamenting, marking or otherwise working up shoe part blanks
    • A43D8/02—Cutting-out
    • A43D8/10—Cutting-out using pattern grading
    • A43D8/12—Patterns or templates therefor
    • A43D8/14—Applying bindings to pattern edges
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D8/00—Machines for cutting, ornamenting, marking or otherwise working up shoe part blanks
    • A43D8/32—Working on edges or margins
    • A43D8/36—Working on edges or margins by trimming the margins of sole blanks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D8/00—Machines for cutting, ornamenting, marking or otherwise working up shoe part blanks
    • A43D8/32—Working on edges or margins
    • A43D8/36—Working on edges or margins by trimming the margins of sole blanks
    • A43D8/38—Working on edges or margins by trimming the margins of sole blanks by cutting-out, e.g. using templates
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43D—MACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D8/00—Machines for cutting, ornamenting, marking or otherwise working up shoe part blanks
    • A43D8/44—Creasing presses

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a shoe upper form and to a manufacturing process of a shoe upper comprising at least such a shoe upper form associated with a rigid reinforcement.
  • the invention relates particularly, but not exclusively, to a shoe upper form and to a manufacturing process of a shoe upper for a shoe and the following description is done with reference to this field of application with the only aim of simplifying the exposition thereof.
  • the part of a shoe which determines the success and wearing life thereof is the shoe upper, i.e. the upper part thereof made of different materials, normally selected between leather, plastic or fabric, even if other special materials can be used, such as skins of rare animals or real or faux furs.
  • the shoe upper consists of one or more shaped pieces, joined to each other and then attached to the shoe sole by sewing or gluing.
  • the cutting operation is thus the first which is performed in the production process of a shoe upper. That cutting operation is currently performed according to three different types, and particularly:
  • Manual cutting is the simplest and longest-used way to carry out the cutting operation and it provides that an operator lets a hand cutter slide along the edges of a template of rigid material (for example fiberized cardboard or plastic) which has the shape (profile and sizes) of the shoe upper form to be made.
  • a template of rigid material for example fiberized cardboard or plastic
  • This cutting mode is still often used to make in series a few pieces (for which it is still the most cost-efficient operating mode) or to cut very fine materials (generally used however for a few pieces and for small quantities).
  • Die cutting is the currently most widespread mode for cutting shoe upper forms and it comprises mechanization and automation solutions of a more-or-less-forced type, which use in particular shaped knives, commonly called “dies", which have the shape of the piece to be obtained, i.e. of the shoe upper, and which have a single or double cutting edge; those dies are arranged on the material to be cut and let penetrate thereinto due to the application of a force generated by a cutting machinery, generally a hydraulic press.
  • the making process of a shoe upper for example of leather or fabric, generally comprises the following steps:
  • the shoe upper form 1 can also comprise rounded portions at which the outline folding operations prove to be particularly complex.
  • the making process thus comprises the further steps of:
  • the making process can also comprise a step of applying a reinforcement tape, for example an adhesive one, adapted to make the shoe upper even more rigid. Particularly shoe-specific adhesive tapes are used.
  • a reinforcement tape for example an adhesive one
  • the shoe upper form 1 can be suitably lined.
  • the making process further comprises the steps of:
  • the manufacturing process of a shoe upper thus proves to be broadly manual, substantially using only a die cutting machine for cutting the shoe upper forms and in case the lining and a skiving machine for trimming the outline.
  • the technical problem of the present invention is to devise a manufacturing plant of shoe uppers and a corresponding manufacturing process, having such structural and functional features as to overcome the limitations and the drawbacks still affecting the plants and processes made according to the prior art, allowing in particular the automation of the manufacturing process to be increased, the final result to be improved and production times to be reduced.
  • the solution idea underlying the present invention is to adopt a shoe upper form capable to ensure a perfect folding and a perfect gluing of the peripheral portion or outline thereof on a reinforcement, allowing the manufacturing process of a shoe upper comprising the same to be automated, particularly in a plant provided with at least one die shearing machine, one press folding machine, as well as one spray gluing machine.
  • a shoe upper form comprising at least one opening having a closing side, characterized in that it comprises at least one pair of notches made at the ends of the closing side of the opening.
  • the invention comprises the following additional and optional features, taken individually or in case in combination.
  • the shoe upper form can comprise a plurality of openings closed by respective closing sides and a respective plurality of pairs of notches at all the closing sides of all the openings.
  • the shoe upper form can comprise at least one jagged edge made at a curved portion thereof.
  • jagged edge can be saw-tooth shaped.
  • the shoe upper form can comprise a plurality of jagged edges made at a plurality of curved portions.
  • a manufacturing process of a shoe upper comprising at least one shoe upper form associated with a rigid reinforcement, the process comprising the steps of:
  • the step of shearing the shoe upper form can comprise making at least one jagged edge at a curved portion of the shoe upper form and the step of folding an outline portion of the shoe upper form on the rigid reinforcement can comprise folding the jagged edge on the curved portion.
  • the steps of shearing the shoe upper form and of making the rigid reinforcement can be performed through a die cutting machine.
  • the step of skiving or chamfering can be made through a scavenging machine.
  • the steps of applying the first and second layers of glue can be carried out through a spray gluing machine with an optical detector.
  • the steps of applying the first and second layers of glue can use a water-based glue.
  • the step of gluing the shoe upper form and the rigid reinforcement can be carried out through a gluing template, used as a centering guide.
  • the step of folding the outline portion of the shoe upper form on the rigid reinforcement can comprise a step of applying a pressure.
  • the step of folding is carried out under pressure and through a press provided with a mold for housing the shoe upper form and the rigid reinforcement glued thereto.
  • the manufacturing process can further comprise an operation of forming and applying a lining on the shoe upper.
  • the operation of forming and applying a lining comprises the steps of:
  • the step of preparing the lining form can be carried out through a die cutting machine.
  • the step of applying the third layer of glue can be carried out through a spray gluing machine with an optical detector.
  • the step of lining can comprise a step of inserting the lining form into a template, holding in position the lining form by air suction, inserting the shoe upper into the template and pressing the same onto the lining form, preferably through a hot press.
  • step of peripherally sewing can be carried out through a sewing machine at a prefixed distance from an outer edge of the shoe upper.
  • a manufacturing plant of a shoe upper adapted to implement the above-indicated manufacturing process, characterized in that it comprises at least one die cutting machine, one spray gluing machine and one press folding machine.
  • the plant can further comprise a skiving machine and/or a gluing template.
  • the plant can further comprise an air suction template, a hot press and a sewing machine.
  • a shoe upper form made according to the present invention is globally indicated with 10.
  • the shoe upper form is made of a suitable material, such as leather or fabric, and associated with a rigid reinforcement to form a real shoe upper, particularly adapted to make the shoe upper portion.
  • the present invention is preferably applied in manufacturing complex-shape shoe uppers, and particularly provided with recesses, curvatures, moldings or generally openings as well as curved portions, as the one shown in Figure 2 .
  • the shoe upper form 10 comprises in that case at least one opening 12 having a closing side 13. Moreover, the shoe upper form 10 has at least one curved portion 14.
  • the shoe upper form 10 further comprises at least one pair of notches 15A and 15B made at the ends of the closing side 13 of the opening 12. As it will be clarified in the description hereinbelow, those notches 15A and 15B make it possible to fold the peripheral portion of the shoe upper form 10 at that closing side 13 of the opening 12.
  • the shoe upper form 10 usually comprises a plurality of openings closed by respective closing sides and a respective plurality of pairs of notches at all the closing sides of all the openings made therein.
  • the shoe upper form 10 further comprises at least one jagged edge 16, particularly saw-tooth shaped, made at the curved portion 14.
  • the jagged edge 16 allows the peripheral portion of the shoe upper form 10 to be correctly folded at the curved portion 14.
  • the shoe upper form 10 comprises a plurality of curved portions, each being provided with a respective jagged edge.
  • the shoe upper form 10 makes it possible to automate the manufacturing of a shoe upper comprising the same together with a reinforcement and in case with a lining, by using the manufacturing process of a shoe upper according to the present invention, described hereinbelow.
  • the process according to the present invention comprises an initial step of preparing a material to make the shoe upper form 10.
  • that initial step of preparing comprises a selection of the material, for example leather or fabric, in the desired colour and in the form of a cloth as well as a quality control to point out and reject possible defects.
  • the material for example leather or fabric
  • the process thus comprises a step of shearing the shoe upper form 10.
  • that step of shearing can take place through a die cutting machine.
  • That cutting machine uses a die having the shape selected for the final shoe upper to be realized and sizes increased by a quantity equal to 1-5% in each direction.
  • the die is configured so as to make in the shoe upper form 10 the notches 15A and 15B and the jagged edge 16.
  • the shoe upper form 10 thus undergoes a step of skiving or chamfering, carried out for example by means of a skiving machine, at an outline portion 11 of the shoe upper form 10.
  • that outline portion 11 corresponds to the portion of the shoe upper form 10 exceeding the final sizes of the shoe upper to be made and it is the portion which will be folded afterwards.
  • the process further comprises a step of making a rigid reinforcement, schematically shown in Figure 2B and globally indicated with 20.
  • the rigid reinforcement 20 like the shoe upper form 10, the rigid reinforcement 20 too has the shape but also the sizes of the shoe upper intended to be realized.
  • the rigid reinforcement 20 thus comprises openings 22 with closing sides 23 and curved portions 24, as well as an outline portion 21 corresponding to those of the shoe upper form 10, but with reduced sizes.
  • the rigid reinforcement 20 has thus lower sizes than the shoe upper form 10 by a quantity equal to 1-5%.
  • H 1 k 1 * H 2
  • the rigid reinforcement 20 is made of a material with a higher stiffness than the material which makes the shoe upper form 10, for example cardboard or plastic.
  • the rigid reinforcement 20 can be made through the die cutting machine used to make the shoe upper form 10, by obviously using dies having other sizes, corresponding in particular to the sizes of the definitive shoe upper to be made.
  • the process according to the present invention thus comprises a step of applying a first layer of glue 25 on the rigid reinforcement 20, as schematically shown in Figure 2C .
  • That step can be automatically carried out by using a spray gluing machine with an optical detector and a water-based glue, so as to minimize the times of application of the first layer of glue 25, besides having a considerable saving of material.
  • the optical detector of the spray gluing machine allows the quantity of product to be measured out and, through the program selection, it to be accurately directed in the required points.
  • the rigid reinforcement 20 rests on a conveyor belt of that spray gluing machine, the optical detector automatically identifying the shape of the rigid reinforcement 20.
  • Different programs can be selected for that spray gluing machine so as to apply the layer of glue 25 only on a selected part, preferably on the whole rigid reinforcement 20.
  • the process comprises at this point a step of gluing the shoe upper form 10 and the rigid reinforcement 20, which are adhered to each other by means of a template, used as a centering guide, as schematically shown in Figure 2D .
  • the process thus comprises a step of applying a second layer of glue at an outermost portion of the so-obtained assembly, particularly at the outline portion 11 of the shoe upper form 10 and the outline portion 21 of the rigid reinforcement 20, always indicated in Figure 2D .
  • this step of applying the second layer of glue can be carried out through the spray gluing machine, suitably programmed to operate only at the outline portions 11 and 21, i.e. at the portions concerned by the following step of folding.
  • the process thus comprises a step of folding under pressure. Particularly, during that step of folding, the outline portion 11 of the shoe upper form 10 is folded on the rigid reinforcement 20 and adhered thereto through a suitable pressure which allows the second layer of glue to be seal-glued.
  • That step of folding is carried out under pressure through a press provided with a mold for housing the shoe upper form 10 and the rigid reinforcement 20 glued thereto. More particularly, that press is capable to fold the outline portion 11 of the shoe upper form 10 on the outline portion 21 of the rigid reinforcement 20, suitably covered by the second layer of glue and thus to apply an appropriate pressure, comprised for example between 4 and 10 bars, which is kept for a prefixed time, for example more than 4 seconds at a prefixed temperature, comprised for example between 80°C and 120°C.
  • the presses currently on the market comprise a plurality of molds, particularly 4 to 10 molds and thus allow the outline portions of a plurality of shoe upper forms to be folded and glued under pressure at the same time.
  • a shoe upper 30 is thereby obtained, schematically shown in Figure 2E .
  • the shoe upper 30 comprises the shoe upper form 10 whose outline portion 11 is suitably folded on the rigid reinforcement 20. It is underlined that the so-obtained shoe upper 30 proves to be unexceptionable for the finish also at the openings 32, particularly at the closing sides 33 thereof due to the presence in the shoe upper form 10 of the notches 15A and 15B which allow a folding without deformation of the outline portion 11 thereof at the ends 35 of those closing sides 33.
  • the covering of the curved portions 34 of the shoe upper 30 proves to be unexceptionable, forming a curved edge 36 given by the overlap of the jagged edge 16 of the shoe upper form 10, particularly with approaching saw teeth which form that jagged edge 16, as shown in greater detail in Figure 2F .
  • the manufacturing process of the shoe upper 30 can also comprise an operation of forming and applying a lining.
  • That operation comprises in particular a step of preparing a lining form having the same shape but reduced sizes with respect to the shoe upper 30. More particularly, the lining form has sizes being lower by 1% than the shoe upper 30.
  • the lining form can be made through the die cutting machine used to make the shoe upper form 10, by obviously employing dies having other sizes, particularly lower than the sizes of the shoe upper 30 as indicated above. This allows the final manual trimming of prior art processes to be avoided.
  • the operation of forming and applying the lining thus comprises a step of applying a third layer of glue, preferably on the whole extension of the lining form.
  • the spray gluing machine with an optical detector can be used.
  • a step of lining is provided, in which the lining form, covered by the third layer of glue, is inserted into a template and kept inside a mold, by air suction. This allows the lining form to be kept in position.
  • shoe upper 30 is also inserted into the mold of the template, so as to let the lining form adhere thereto, the so-made assembly being thus pressed through a hot press.
  • the process thus comprises a final step of automatically peripherally sewing in which the shoe upper joined to the lining form is inserted into a template, for example into a sewing machine.
  • a 200x300-area sewing machine can be used.
  • This sewing machine due to the bar code reading, automatically identifies the outline of the shoe upper 30 and sews the periphery thereof at a prefixed distance, preferably equal to 1-1.5 mm, from an outer edge of the shoe upper 30, obtaining a lined shoe upper.
  • the manufacturing process of the shoe upper 30, in case lined, can be implemented through a plant 40, schematically shown in Figure 3 .
  • the plant 40 comprises at least one die cutting machine 41, one skiving machine 42, one spray gluing machine 43, one gluing template 44, one press folding machine such as one mold press 45 and in case one air suction template 46, one hot press 47 and one sewing machine 48.
  • the die cutting machine 41 receives a selected material for the shoe upper and makes the shoe upper form 10, which is sent to the skiving machine 42 for skiving or chamfering the outline portion 11 thereof.
  • the die cutting machine 41 further receives a selected material for the reinforcement and makes the rigid reinforcement 20, which is in turn sent to the spray gluing machine 43 for the step of applying the first layer of glue 25.
  • the shoe upper form 10 with skived outline and the rigid reinforcement 20 with the first layer of glue 25 are thus put into the gluing template 44 to form an assembly with the rigid reinforcement 20 seal-glued to the shoe upper form 10, assembly which is in turn sent to the spray gluing machine 43 for applying the second layer of glue at an outermost portion of that assembly, then inserted into the mold press 45 for the step of folding under pressure, forming the shoe upper 30 with folded edges.
  • the plant 40 can also carry out the operation of forming and applying a lining, a material selected for the lining being sent to the die cutting machine 41 to make the lining form, which is thus sent to the spray gluing machine 43 for applying the third layer of glue.
  • the lining form covered by the third layer of glue is thus inserted into the air suction template 46, together with the shoe upper 30 with folded edges, the assembly being sent to the hot press 47 and then to the sewing machine 48 for the final step of sewing.
  • the manufacturing process and plant of a shoe upper according to the invention allow all types of material to be used, particularly for the shoe upper form, from leather to fabric, from coconut to reptile, keeping the geometry of the so-obtained final shoe uppers always constant, whereas, in the case of a manual procedure as those of the prior art, it is generally possible to make only leather shoe uppers keeping the geometry of the obtained shoe uppers unchanged, instead the assurance of that geometric invariance of shoe uppers cannot be ensured in the case of other materials such as coconut, reptile and especially fabric.
  • the elevated automation of the forming process of a shoe upper according to the present invention ensures a high production rate, besides the quality of the so-obtained shoe uppers, both in terms of constancy of the geometric conformations of the same and in terms of finish.

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  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
EP18186399.4A 2017-08-03 2018-07-30 Oberteil form und verfahren zur herstellung eines schuhs mit dieser oberteil Withdrawn EP3437507A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT102017000090257A IT201700090257A1 (it) 2017-08-03 2017-08-03 Forma di tomaia per calzatura e processo di fabbricazione di una tomaia che la comprende

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP3437507A1 true EP3437507A1 (de) 2019-02-06

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP18186399.4A Withdrawn EP3437507A1 (de) 2017-08-03 2018-07-30 Oberteil form und verfahren zur herstellung eines schuhs mit dieser oberteil

Country Status (2)

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EP (1) EP3437507A1 (de)
IT (1) IT201700090257A1 (de)

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2036406A (en) * 1934-01-19 1936-04-07 United Shoe Machinery Corp Method of making shoes
CA2513268A1 (en) * 1998-12-22 2000-06-22 Bauer Nike Hockey Inc. Method of making a skate boot
WO2014128684A1 (en) * 2013-02-25 2014-08-28 Pierobon Roberto Waterproof and vapor-permeable shoe and manufacturing method thereof
WO2016196139A1 (en) * 2015-05-29 2016-12-08 Nike Innovate C.V. Footwear manufacturing with a flat pattern upper

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2036406A (en) * 1934-01-19 1936-04-07 United Shoe Machinery Corp Method of making shoes
CA2513268A1 (en) * 1998-12-22 2000-06-22 Bauer Nike Hockey Inc. Method of making a skate boot
WO2014128684A1 (en) * 2013-02-25 2014-08-28 Pierobon Roberto Waterproof and vapor-permeable shoe and manufacturing method thereof
WO2016196139A1 (en) * 2015-05-29 2016-12-08 Nike Innovate C.V. Footwear manufacturing with a flat pattern upper

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IT201700090257A1 (it) 2019-02-03

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