EP3225727B1 - Système de tissu à haute résistance - Google Patents

Système de tissu à haute résistance Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3225727B1
EP3225727B1 EP16163294.8A EP16163294A EP3225727B1 EP 3225727 B1 EP3225727 B1 EP 3225727B1 EP 16163294 A EP16163294 A EP 16163294A EP 3225727 B1 EP3225727 B1 EP 3225727B1
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EP
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Prior art keywords
knitted fabric
acrylic
yarn
fabric
process according
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EP16163294.8A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP3225727A1 (fr
Inventor
Aurelio ANTOGNOZZI
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Antoraf Srl
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Antoraf Srl
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Priority to ES16163294T priority patent/ES2709671T3/es
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a high-strength fabric system.
  • the present invention relates to a process for obtaining a synthetic or partially synthetic fabric, of extremely compact consistency and having a stiff and rough hand, with improved resistance to horizontal and vertical traction and to perforation, so as to be suitable for creating integral, partial or shaped articles, cloth by the metre which, thanks to the shrinkage undergone, can be used as finished products, semi-manufactured products or as simple parts of finished products intended for the sector of footwear, for example shoe uppers, shoelaces, for the sector of accessories for clothing such as for example belts, bags, hats, watch straps, for the sector of furniture or its accessories, such as rugs including mats for cars.
  • the present invention relates to a process for obtaining the aforementioned textile fabric comprising the heat treatment of a knitted fabric obtained by working at least one 100% acrylic yarn of the unshrunk type.
  • the 100% acrylic yarns currently available on the market are "fixed" acrylic yarns or HB (high bulk) acrylic yarns, the latter generally used in knitting in that they create knitwear having softness and volume, for example outer knitwear or pile fabrics.
  • the "fixed" acrylic yarn is formed solely by stretched fibres while the HB 100% acrylic yarn is formed by a blend of acrylic fibres where a portion of fibres of the blend were stretched previously while the remaining portion of fibres has not been stretched: the blend is spun and the yarn obtained in this way is then subjected to a heat treatment which generates a shrinkage solely of the stretched fibres, where the degree of swelling of the yarn is mainly a function of the percentage of shrinkage of the portion of stretched fibres.
  • the 100% acrylic yarns are also used in weaving with a loom, creating fabrics whose consistency is not very suited to obtaining shaped manufactured products of high compactness and stiffness such as to be able to make shoe uppers, belts, bags or other accessories for clothing or furniture such as watch straps or mats for cars.
  • JP5785720B2 discloses a knitted fabric with tense stiff feeling made by using a blended fiber yarn including rayon fiber with a flat cross-section, said blended fiber yarn including 20 mass% or more of rayon fiber with a flat cross-section and having a twist coefficient of 3.5 to 5.0.
  • GB2020329 A discloses a fine jersey cloth resembling a wash leather in character, comprising a 3-cylinder bulk yarn which in turn comprises from 20 to 80 % of shrinkable acrylic stable fibres having a staple length of from 40 to 80 mm and a denier of from 1 to 5 dtex, and from 80 to 20 of cotton and/or wool and or a non- shrinkable fibre, the yarn having before shrinkage a boiling-induced yarn shrinkage of from 10 to 35 %, a spinning alpha of from 70 to 130 and a count of from 20/1 to 150/1.
  • GB987163 A discloses shaped sheet elements of woven or knitted fabrics of fully synthetic material, the fabric comprises 50-90% of acrylonitrile polymer fibres and 50-10% of fibres which stiffen on heating and are produced from thermoplastic polymers, wherein the stiffening fibres are preferably of polyamides, vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride polymers, polyolefines, or polyesters.
  • the object of the present invention is that of overcoming, at least in part, the disadvantages of the prior art by providing alternative textile materials, preferably of extremely compact and stiff consistency, with improved resistance to horizontal and vertical traction and to perforation, such as to be suitable for obtaining cloths by the metre, integral articles, partial articles, shaped manufactured products and the like, for accessories for clothing and/or furniture, such as for example shoe uppers, belts, bags, watch straps, hats, shoelaces, rugs, mats for cars or other accessories for clothing and/or furniture.
  • An object of the present invention relates to a process for obtaining a finished fabric, synthetic or partially synthetic, defined here also as knitted fabric, having at least one stiffened portion with an extremely compact consistency, preferably such as to result in a fabric with low wearability and/or drapability.
  • Extremely compact here is meant to identify a fabric which is rigid and “solid” to horizontal and vertical traction, understood to have little stretch in the directions of width and length (dimensional stability) and resistant to perforation to a much greater extent than other fabrics with the same thickness.
  • knitted fabric here is meant to identify a product of industrial knitting made by knitting machines of the linear or rectilinear type.
  • the knitted fabric differs from woven fabrics having a warp and a weft because it is made up of curvilinear loops formed by a continuous yarn which weaves sinuously, binding by means of crossings, which are arranged horizontally (wale) and/or vertically (course).
  • the stiffened portions of the present fabric derive from a particular heat treatment whereto the knitted fabric made with at least one unshrunk 100% acrylic yarn is subjected.
  • “Yarn” here is meant to identify the group of textile fibres held together by a twisting to form a thread of length far greater than the fibres and "100% acrylic yarn” here is meant to identify a yarn formed exclusively by acrylic fibres.
  • "Acrylic fibres” here is meant to identify the acrylic fibres which are produced generally by extrusion of a polymer constituted by at least 85% of acrylonitrile monomer, the possible remaining part to 100 of monomer units being formed by one or more comonomers. The extrusion of the aforesaid polymer leads to the formation of a continuous multifilament thread which can be colourless or coloured through pigmentation.
  • This staple is crimped in order to undulate it and then torn through traction in order to obtain discontinuous fibres, generally with length of 72/74 mm approximately, and subsequently the fibres can be stretched if intended to form a fixed acrylic yarn, or non-stretched if intended to form a portion of the blend of an HB acrylic yarn.
  • the present unshrunk 100% acrylic yarn is formed by a blend of acrylic fibres where part of the fibres of the blend, for example 55%, have been previously stretched, while the remaining fibres, for example 45%, have not been stretched.
  • This yarn composed in this way is therefore ready for use in order to be knitted in accordance with the present invention.
  • different yarns here is meant to identify all the yarns which are different from the present unshrunk yarn, for example yarns of only natural fibres, yarns of only synthetic fibres other than 100% acrylic, yarns of natural and synthetic fibres in a blend, and the like.
  • each stiffened zone of the present knitted fabric exhibits poor or reduced stretch in the directions of width and length.
  • the stretch in both directions, which the stiffened zones of the present fabric exhibit after the present heat treatment is less than 5%, even if it is possible to reach values below or equal to 3%, even up to 0%, according to the thickness of the unshrunk 100% acrylic yarn used and the type of knitting.
  • each stiffened zone of the aforesaid knitted fabric in accordance with the present invention has a very similar consistency and aesthetic appearance to a felt rather than to a woven fabric such as flannel or the like which are highly drapable and therefore wearable fabrics thanks to their softness.
  • Said knitted fabric with one or more stiffened portions can be in the form of cloths by the metre (pieces), integral articles, partial articles (parts of end products) or shaped manufactured products deriving therefrom. Since the object of the present invention is that of reducing as far as possible the stretch of a knitted fabric, the present fabric is made by knitting a single unshrunk 100% acrylic yarn so as to obtain advantageously a fabric substantially without stretch in both directions.
  • the present knitted fabric is found to be particularly suitable for obtaining shoe uppers, belts, bags, watch straps, hats, shoelaces, mats for cars or other garments or accessories for clothing and/or furniture.
  • the abovementioned properties are the end result of the use of acrylic fibre in one of its "non-usual" states and not currently available commercially.
  • the sensation which the hand notices when touching the fabric can be softness, warmth, stiffness, compactness, hairiness, slip, deriving from a hand which is, for example, soft, crinkled, full-bodied, smooth, heavy, grainy, pliant, dry, hard, fine, swollen, rough, undulated, smooth.
  • a hand which is, for example, soft, crinkled, full-bodied, smooth, heavy, grainy, pliant, dry, hard, fine, swollen, rough, undulated, smooth.
  • the present knitted fabric can also be subjected to a chemical treatment of waterproofing if necessary for the end use (for example uppers) without thereby departing from the scope of the present invention.
  • the knitted fabrics in accordance with the present invention can be made also by knitting one or more unshrunk 100% acrylic yarns as defined above, with one or more yarns for knitting which are different from the present unshrunk 100% acrylic yarn, for example of natural and/or synthetic fibres.
  • the resulting fabrics will exhibit very stiff and compact areas for the unshrunk 100% acrylic yarn in accordance with the invention, and less stiff and less compact areas for the other types of yarn which are usual for knitting operations.
  • the stiffness of the stiffened zones obtained by the present process is such as not to require, in the obtaining of the fabric, a second support yarn, hidden and not forming the curvilinear weaves of wale and/or course (a laid-in yarn), in order to give stability to transverse traction.
  • the process for obtaining a knitted fabric, synthetic or partially synthetic, in the form of cloth by the metre (piece), integral article, parts of end manufactured products which has at least one stiffened portion of extremely compact consistency and appearance similar to felt, preferably of such a consistency as not to be substantially wearable and/or drapable, and preferably with a stretch in both directions less than 5%, more preferably less than or equal to 3% even up to 0%, said process comprising the following steps:
  • step (B) said 100% acrylic yarns prepared in step (A) can be knitted in a knitting machine, also together with one or more different yarns as defined above.
  • the different yarns are fed separate in the machine to create zones of different materials.
  • extension of the stiffened portion of the fabric obtained after the present process is proportional to the extension of the knitted fabric containing said unshrunk 100% acrylic yarn.
  • the metric count of the unshrunk 100% acrylic yarn in accordance with the invention can be any count normally used in the knitting sector: the knitwear can in fact be created with any count depending on the result that is to be obtained. In fact the greater the thickness of the yarn, the greater the thickness of the fabric.
  • Methodric count here is meant to identify the number of metres for making up the weight of 1000g (Nm) and represents the bulkiness or thickness of the yarn.
  • An example of the metric count of the present unshrunk acrylic yarn suitable for industrial knitting can be 1/18000 but can also be produced in a different count, for example with a metric count of 1/500 (i.e. to reach 1kg in weight 500 metres of yarn are needed) or 1/700, or 1/30000 (i.e. to reach 1kg in weight 30000 metres of yarn are needed), or 1/40000: the metric count of the yarn to be knitted will therefore influence the fineness at which the yarns can be worked.
  • Knitting of the present unshrunk 100% acrylic yarn can be performed with the density of the stitches (number of wales and courses per centimetre) to be chosen on the basis of the compactness which is to be achieved in the knitted fabric.
  • the present unshrunk 100% acrylic yarn can be worked with any fineness so as to reproduce all the types of the knitted textile working of the art, always giving rise to a fabric with stiffened zones after the heat treatment.
  • step (C) applied to the knitted fabric, obtained with the yarn described above in accordance with the present invention can be compared to a shrinkage treatment in that operating at a temperature of around 100-120°C, using a thermal fluid selected from steam, hot air or boiling water, preferably steam.
  • the knitted fabric is cooled, preferably through aspiration in that it allows also the residual moisture to be removed and also the shrinkage step to be accelerated, making the fabric reach the definitive dimensional stability.
  • the present heat treatment (C) in hot-humid conditions is preferably performed by means of the use of ironing machines which supply both heat and humidity, passing said knitted fabric of step (B) through the smooth and heated rollers of a first continuous ironing machine, which helps to keep open the pores between the meshes during the shrinkage, and then through a second ironing machine with press cover, also capable of supplying heat and humidity to the fabric, in such a way as to complete the shrinkage and at the same time impart a dimensional stability to the fabric as defined above.
  • the fabric deriving from the aforesaid heat treatment can be comparable aesthetically to a "felted" fabric in that it has become more compact, heavier and of greater thickness with respect to the knitted fabric before the heat treatment, in addition to having thickened its mass, thus becoming less permeable to air similarly to boiled wool or felted wool.
  • this invention was found to be unexpected in that the felting is a typical phenomenon of wool while the synthetic fibres including acrylic fibres are notoriously not subject to the phenomenon of felting.
  • the particular nature of the yarn given by the material used and by its working together with the effect of the heat treatment of the knitted fabric have allowed the fabric which is the object of the present invention to reach a high consistency and a compactness such as to be able to be shaped not only on the machine but also by cutting, without having to be lined with an adhesive material to avoid the fraying of the edges, operation which instead has to be carried out for conventional knitted fabrics.
  • the process of production of the present fabric is also found to be more advantageous with respect to the processes of loom weaving in that in the latter a high outlay of time is required for the preparation of the loom and a minimum production quantity (production minimums) is necessary for operating the looms which always operate with a very high number of reels, while with the present process even one single piece can be produced advantageously and fast whose shape is obtained directly on the machine using a single reel of yarn.
  • the illustrated sample 1 is knitted with fabric stitch, with fineness 7, using a 1/18,000 Nm 100% acrylic yarn.
  • This is not a conventional knitting product since the yarn has not been subjected to shrinkage (retraction) before knitting and therefore is to be considered as the precursor of the product which can be obtained through the method of the present invention.
  • this sample 1 has undulations which are an indication of its deformability, despite the fact it has been fabric stitched. More particularly, if said sample 1 is subjected to traction in a transverse direction, it tends to stretch, similarly to known knitted fabrics, even if in a more marked manner.
  • the sample on the right is that which is obtained by subjecting the sample 1 to step (C) of heat treatment and to subsequent cooling (C').
  • this sample 2 does not have undulations, has narrower meshes, and if said sample 2 is subjected to traction in the transverse direction it does not stretch, similarly to felts which are however typically in natural fibres.
  • the knitted fabric obtained from the process in accordance with the present invention is found to be, where stiffened, very compact and solid, resistant to horizontal/vertical traction and to perforation in a much more marked manner than any other similar fabric, which can also be detected with instruments. Moreover it is stable, insulating, with raw edge, does not fray, solid and resistant at the sewing points, and exhibits a possibility of colours with high fastness to light, to washing and to rubbing, having moreover a particular stability to washing by hand and in a machine.
  • a hat is illustrated before ( Fig. 2 ) and after the heat treatment (C) ( Fig. 3 ).
  • This hat has been made using, in the same machine for knitting, an unshrunk 100% acrylic yarn as defined above to make the soft black cap and a wool yarn to make the white band placed around the black cap.
  • one or more unshrunk 100% acrylic yarns as defined above can be used in association and/or in combination with one or more yarns of different composition, even not acrylic, wherein the acrylic yarn as defined above is used in the construction of a first element of a shaped article and different yarns, for example wool, are used in the construction of other elements belonging to the shaped article, as in the case of the hat illustrated in Figures 2-3 . It is to be understood that the heat treatment of step (C) and cooling of step (C') can also be performed on a portion of knitted fabric without thereby departing from the present invention.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Claims (9)

  1. Processus permettant d'obtenir un article tricoté synthétique ou partiellement synthétique comportant au moins une partie rigide raidie avec une main ferme, une faible élasticité et une apparence esthétique similaire à du feutre,
    ledit tissu étant directement mis en forme sur une machine à tricoter rectiligne sous la forme d'une pièce de tissu au mètre, d'articles intégraux, de parties de produits d'extrémité ou de produits mis en forme dérivants de ceux-ci, ledit processus comprenant les étapes suivantes consistant à :
    (A) préparer, dans un nombre métrique prédéfini, un fil 100 % acrylique non diminué constitué de fibres acryliques, dans lequel ledit fil n'a pas été assujetti à une diminution ou à une rétraction avant le tricotage,
    (B) tricoter au moins un dudit fils 100 % acrylique non diminué tel que préparé dans l'étape (A) pour obtenir ledit article tricoté (1), lesdits fils étant alimentés dans la machine à tricoter rectiligne de façon à former des boucles curvilignes de la structure dudit article tricoté ;
    (C) assujettir à un traitement thermique ledit article tricoté (1) obtenu lors de l'étape précédente (B), de préférence dans des conditions de chaleur humide, de façon à obtenir ladite au moins une partie raidie qui présente une extension dans les directions de largeur et de longueur inférieure à 5 %, de préférence inférieure ou égale à 3 % et allant même jusqu'à 0 % ;
    (C') assujettir l'article tricoté obtenu lors de l'étape (C) à un refroidissement.
  2. Processus selon la revendication 1, dans lequel le traitement thermique de l'étape (C) est effectué au moyen du passage dudit article tricoté de l'étape (B) à travers une première machine à repasser en continu équipée de rouleaux lisses chauffés et ensuite à travers une seconde machine à repasser équipée d'un carter de protection, de façon à obtenir ledit article tricoté.
  3. Processus selon la revendication 1, dans lequel le traitement thermique de l'étape (C) est effectué à une température d'environ 100 à 120 °C, au moyen d'un fluide thermique choisi parmi la vapeur, l'air chaud ou l'eau en ébullition, de préférence la vapeur.
  4. Processus selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le tissu (2) sous la forme d'une pièce de tissu au mètre, obtenu à partir du traitement thermique de l'étape (C) et à partir du refroidissement de l'étape (C') est ensuite assujetti à au moins une opération de découpe (D) pour obtenir des produits ou parties façonnés de produits fabriqués et mis en forme pour des accessoires destinés à l'habillement et/ou l'immobilier, tels que par exemple des dessus de chaussures, des lacets de chaussures, des ceintures, des sacs, des bracelets de montre, des chapeaux ou d'autres accessoires destinés à l'habillement et/ou l'immobilier, tels que par exemple des tapis, des matelas pour voitures.
  5. Processus selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le refroidissement de l'étape (C') est effectué au moyen d'une aspiration.
  6. Processus selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le fil 100 % acrylique préparé dans l'étape (A) présente un numéro métrique de 1/18 000 Nm.
  7. Processus selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel l'extension de la partie raidie de l'article tricoté (2) obtenu après l'étape (C') est proportionnelle à l'extension de l'article tricoté contenant le fil 100 % acrylique constitué seulement de fibres non diminuées.
  8. Processus selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel dans l'étape (B) au moins un fil différent dudit fil 100 % acrylique non diminué est alimenté séparément dans la machine à tricoter rectiligne pour créer des zones de matériaux différents.
  9. Processus selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel le fil 100 % acrylique préparé dans l'étape (A) est coloré et pas non teint.
EP16163294.8A 2016-03-31 2016-03-31 Système de tissu à haute résistance Active EP3225727B1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP16163294.8A EP3225727B1 (fr) 2016-03-31 2016-03-31 Système de tissu à haute résistance
ES16163294T ES2709671T3 (es) 2016-03-31 2016-03-31 Sistema de material textil de alta resistencia

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP16163294.8A EP3225727B1 (fr) 2016-03-31 2016-03-31 Système de tissu à haute résistance

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EP3225727A1 EP3225727A1 (fr) 2017-10-04
EP3225727B1 true EP3225727B1 (fr) 2018-12-12

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Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
RU2715878C1 (ru) * 2019-05-16 2020-03-03 Владимир Михайлович Апарин Способ изготовления трикотажных беретов
US20220251739A1 (en) * 2019-06-28 2022-08-11 Spiber Inc. Fabric, 3D Shaped Fabric, and Production Method Therefor

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1460111C3 (de) * 1962-06-14 1974-04-11 Bayer Ag, 5090 Leverkusen Verfahren zum Herstellen von Hüten durch thermische Verformung von Geweben oder Gewirken aus Gemischen vollsynthetischer Fasergarne
GB2020329A (en) * 1978-04-28 1979-11-14 Bayer Ag A fine jersey cloth resembling a wash leather in character
JP5785720B2 (ja) * 2011-02-01 2015-09-30 ダイワボウホールディングス株式会社 編物及びそれを用いた繊維製品

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ES2709671T3 (es) 2019-04-17
EP3225727A1 (fr) 2017-10-04

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