EP3066953B1 - Method for manufacturing a beauty mask with biocellulosic substrate and associated mask - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to the method of manufacturing a beauty mask for cosmetic use using a bio-cellulosic support.

Bio-cellulose, synthesized by bacteria from plant substrate, is known for its regenerative properties and its contribution to the penetration of active ingredients deep into the skin ( Wojciech K. Czaja et al., "The future prospects of microbial cellulose in biomedical applications", Biomacromolecules, Vol 8 No 1, January 2007 ). The state of the art shows that masks composed in whole or part of bio-cellulose are used as cosmetic beauty masks.

Thus, the patent EP2011470A1 (L'OREAL) 07.01.09 paragraphs 69 and 71, exposed a method in which active ingredients are provided in the form of water-soluble powder and applied by simple contact with moist bio-cellulose. However, such a method does not allow a homogeneous distribution of the assets, causing the formation of packets in some places of the support while others will be scarcely sprinkled. Moreover, no particular attention seems to have been paid to the amount of powder dissolved on its surface, which variable affects the final amount of active mask.

In addition, the patent US20130244977A1 (AMOREPACIFIC CORP.) 19.09.13 Abstract, describes a technique for making a pure or improved biocellulose sheet dipping in an oily solution containing the active ingredients. Although this technique allows a relatively uniform distribution of the assets, the final amount of these in the mask is difficult to quantify given the metrological bias that induces a bath impregnation.

The patent US2004 / 0022830 describes a cosmetic beauty mask. Thus, to the knowledge of the present applicant, it has not been exposed any method of making a beauty mask using a biocellulosic support that allows a control of the amount of assets satisfactory under the regulations concerning the products. cosmetics.

Furthermore, it is known that the realization of packaging can be carried out flat by thermoforming a complex on a plastic support to form a tray. The shape of such a package, however, does not guarantee a sufficient maintenance of beauty mask type products, they can move in the tray and lose some of the serum they are impregnated.

Methods of sealing peelable bags are also used ( Dodrill Dhuanne, "Advances in Peelable Sealant Technology," Rollprint Packaging Products Inc., 2005 However, these packaging methods are not a priori designed to obtain a bio-cellulosic mask regularly impregnated with serum.

On the other hand, the bio-cellulose sheet, because of its high water content (up to 95%), is very exposed to the risk of microbiological contamination, hence the need to add preservatives.

Different sterilization processes can supplement or supplement these preservatives, heat treatments and ionization being the most commonly used. The latter method, mainly used in the medical field, is mentioned as effective from a dose of 15 kGy, the average dose administered varying between 25 and 35 kGy. It is known in the agri-food field that such a dose of radiation can induce yellowing of the bacterial cellulose, giving it a repulsive appearance and rendering its use unfit.

The applicant company has therefore considered a new solution to overcome the previously mentioned constraints. In particular, she sought to design a beauty mask from a bio-cellulose film synthesized by fermentation of a coconut water, preferably by Acetobacter Xylinum, sterilized by an effective physicochemical method and covered with porous polymer films. . The support thus obtained is cut and folded into pre-established forms and impregnated with a serum, comprising active ingredients and additives whose final quantities are controlled and meet the regulatory requirements, conferring on the final product the properties of a cosmetic product, so that the distribution of it on the support is regular.

Unexpectedly, it has been demonstrated by the applicant that the heat treatment commonly applied to bio-cellulose, namely exposure at least twice at a temperature of 125 ° C. for a minimum of one half hour and maximum of one hour, was not enough to avoid contaminations in the absence of preservatives. The Applicant then thought to add a step of ionization by gamma radiation at a dose of 5 kGy at heart, less than those commonly used, to avoid these contaminations and, together, the alteration of the appearance of the bio-cellulose sheet.

Moreover, the Applicant has had the idea of a flat packaging method by a thermoformer, provided with a zone sterilized by a laminar flow, using a double aluminum complex to form a peelable bag and without requiring the use of preformed type trays as in the methods described in the aforementioned article. This process also makes it possible, by the preparation of a suitable serum, a good distribution of this serum in the bio-cellulose sheet.

A combination of gelling agents, incorporated in pulverulent or emulsified form, composed of 0.2 to 0.5% of acrylate and 0.7 to 1.5% of polyacrylate was chosen to give the serum a viscosity of between 0, 1 and 30 Pa.s, controlled by a Brookfield viscometer using spindle # 6 at 20 rpm. This viscosity allows the serum to spread relatively uniformly over the surface of the sheet while avoiding the risk of sagging during its deposition on a horizontal film during packaging.

The bio-cellulose film is protected on one of its faces by a polypropylene non-woven fabric which may comprise up to 2% of dye and on its other side by a polyamide film, which may be larger than the cut of the model to facilitate the handling of the product. The biocellulosic support obtained is precut according to models either predefined or defined by the Applicant, in particular for neck and bust forms.

The porous structures of these films, and in particular the honeycombed polyamide, promote the diffusion of the serum deposited on their surface in the bio-cellulose sheet.

A preferential mode of folding in two to four stages, is applied to the support, so that its two apparent faces are covered with polyamide. The folds expose a support surface adapted to that of the serum applied to the packaging film, promoting optimal distribution thereof. Moreover, the dose of serum is calibrated to optimize the impregnation of the support and to determine the final amount of active mask, to comply with current regulations.

The serum may contain, typically in a proportion of between 10 and 45% of moisturizing agents, preferably in the form of vegetable glycerine up to 30% supplemented with 0 to 15% of polysaccharides. Different actives can be added depending on the expected cosmetic effects such as aloe vera, sodium hyaluronate, marine collagen or any other well-known ingredient of those skilled in the art in amounts usually used.

The serum contains, moreover, preservatives sufficiently effective to ensure both the protection of the serum and the bio-cellulosic carrier, while limiting undesirable effects. Any preservative system well known to those skilled in the art may be used, more particularly, a solution chosen will be the use of phenoxyethanol of 0.3% to 1% coupled with Pentylene glycol of 0.2% to 2%. % and Ethylhexyl glycerine from 0.05% to 1.5%.

The following list, given by way of example, discloses, non-exhaustively, serum formulas that can be applied to the bio-cellulosic carrier. Quantities of components are given in percentage.

Example No. 1: MOISTURIZING MASK

Product % DEMINERALIZED WATER 55.364 ETHYLENE DIAMINE TETRAACETIC ACID, DISODIUM SALT 0.15 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.3 VEGETAL GLYCERINE 30 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 5 MARINE COLLAGEN 6 ALOE VERA POWDER 0,001 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.1 Triethanolamine 0.5 Polyacrylate-13 0.84 POLYISOBUTENE 0.39 POLYSORBATE 20 0.17 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.625 PERFUME 0.5 ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERINE 0.06 100

EXAMPLE 2: ANTI-CERNES MASK

Product % DEMINERALIZED WATER 60.317 ETHYLENE DIAMINE TETRAACETIC ACID, DISODIUM SALT 0.15 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.3 VEGETAL GLYCERINE 30 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 5 SACCHAROMYCES CEREVISIAE 0.18 EXTRACT PG HAMAMELIS 1 Triethanolamine 0.3 Polyacrylate-13 0.72 POLYISOBUTENE 0.34 POLYSORBATE 20 0.06 PHENOXYETHANOL 0,425 PENTILENE GLYCOL 1 ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERINE 0.208 100

Example 3: LIGHTENING MASK

Product % DEMINERALIZED WATER 61.045 ETHYLENE DIAMINE TETRAACETIC ACID, DISODIUM SALT 0.15 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.3 VEGETAL GLYCERINE 30 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 5 EXTRACT EPG LEMON 0.5 LEPIDIUM SATIVUM SPROUT EXTRACT 0.0022 LECITHIUM 0.64 SOY ISOFLAVONES 0.0028 POLYSORBATE 80 0.2 ALCOHOL 0.197 GLYCERIN 0.078 Triethanolamine 0.3 Polyacrylate-13 0.54 POLYISOBUTENE 0.25 POLYSORBATE 20 0.11 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.625 PERFUME 0.06 ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERINE 0.5 100

Example 4: ANTI-AGING MASK

Product % DEMINERALIZED WATER 61.575 ETHYLENE DIAMINE TETRAACETIC ACID, DISODIUM SALT 0.15 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.3 VEGETAL GLYCERINE 30 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 5 MYRTILLE PG EXTRACT 0.5 ISOMALT 0.18 MALUS DOMESTICA FRUIT CELL CULTURE EXTRACT 0.0032 SODIUM BENZOATE 0.0006 LACTIC ACID 0.0004 PVP 0.0058 Triethanolamine 0.3 Polyacrylate-13 0.48 POLYISOBUTENE 0.22 POLYSORBATE 20 0.1 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.625 PERFUME 0.06 ETHYLHEXYL GLYCERINE 0.5 100

Example 5: PURIFYING / OXYGENANT MASK

Product % DEMINERALIZED WATER 60.77 ETHYLENE DIAMINE TETRAACETIC ACID, DISODIUM SALT 0.15 ACRYLATES / C10-30 ALKYL ACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.3 VEGETAL GLYCERINE 30 BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 5 MORINGA PTERYGOSPERMA 0.01 Maltodextrin 0.01 METHYLISOTHIAZOLINONE 0.1 EXTRACT EPG THE GREEN 0.5 Triethanolamine 0.3 Polyacrylate-13 0.54 POLYISOBUTENE 0.25 POLYSORBATE 20 0.11 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.9 PERFUME 0.06 100

The attached figures illustrate the invention:

• The FIGS. 1A, 1B and 1C illustrate non-specific cuttings to the invention applied to the bio-cellulosic support.
• The Figures 2A and 2B illustrate cutouts specific to the invention applied to the bio-cellulosic support.
• The Figure 3A, 3B and 3C represent the folding steps of a bust cut.
• The figure 4 represents the steps of a horizontal bagging process.

Mask models are given as examples of achievements and are available in several sizes adapted to the morphology of the user.

In an exemplary embodiment according to the Figure 3B and 3C , a bust model is folded by a folding of its upper ends (2) in three folds (3), (5) and (4).

The neck mask ( Figure 2A ), rectangular cut with two slots to facilitate anatomical adaptation, is folded into three thicknesses so that one of the two side panels is folded over that of the middle before the second side panel is folded over the together.

According to an embodiment presented in figure 4 a defined dose of serum is deposited on a multilayer heat-shrinkable flexible horizontal film (6), typically composed of polyethylene terephthalate, aluminum and polyethylene, a packaging article usually used for the manufacture of cosmetic bags.

The bio-cellulosic support, composed of a bio-cellulosic sheet (7) covered with a polyamide film (8) and a nonwoven film (10) ( figure 3B ), cut (11) and folded (12), is affixed so that only the polyamide coating (8) is in contact with the serum (9).

A second calibrated dose of the serum (9) is applied to the support (12) before a second aluminum film (6) covers the assembly. A thermal welding, carried out by a thermoformer specially designed for this purpose, seals the packaging around the bio-cellulosic mask, forming a peelable bag whose opening is facilitated by a corner leaving part of the two non-welded films.

If the product does not require folding, the serum (9) will be deposited on only one side of the support (11), preferably that covered with polyamide (8).

In another embodiment, the polyamide (8) may be replaced by a non-woven fabric (10), similar to that already covering the first face of the sheet (10) and capable of protruding from the biocellulose support (11) or (12). The composition of the serum (9) will then be adapted to also allow a good diffusion in the mass of the support (12).

Implementation and use of the final product:

To use the product, open the peel bag and unfold the mask. Remove the non-woven fabric, grasp the polyamide if necessary, and place the mask on the part of the body concerned, making it properly adhere to the skin and avoiding the presence of air bubbles. Remove the second film and allow the indicated time to settle before removing the mask from a room.

The method is not limited to the simple steps mentioned above, and given by way of illustration of the embodiments.

Claims (9)

1. Manufacturing process for a cosmetic beauty mask soaked with a serum whose viscosity is between 0.1 and 30 Pa.s, characterized in that it :

   - uses as a support a sterilized bio-cellulose sheet (7), covered on both sides with porous polymer films (8 and 10),

   - deposits the serum (9) in two steps, a defined dose being deposited flat on a flexible heat-sealable packaging film (6) before being covered by the biocellulose support (7), before a second calibrated dose is deposited on the other side of the biocellulose support (7),

   - is conditioned with a second flexible heat-sealable film (6) which overcomes the entire assembly, being then welded to the first heat-sealable film (6) using a thermoformer, thus allowing to obtain a peelable bag containing the product.
2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the bio-cellulose film used (7) is obtained by fermentation of coconut water by Acetobacter Xylinum.
3. Process according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the bio-cellulose film (7) is sterilized by at least one heat treatment at 125°C followed by ionization of 5 kGy at heart.
4. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cellulose sheet (7) is pre-cut and folded (12) in original shapes anatomically adapted to the neck or bust.
5. Process, according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polymer fiber films consist of a nonwoven polypropylene film on one side (8) and a alveolate polyamide film or a second film of nonwoven polypropylene (10) on the other side. The nonwoven may have a sufficient amount of dye to give the final product a characteristic color.
6. Process according to the preceding claims, characterized in that the viscosity of the serum (9) is ensured by a combination of 0.2% to 0.5% acrylate and 0.7% to 1.5% polyacrylate.
7. Process according to the preceding claims, characterized in that the serum used (9) comprises one or more cosmetic additives, such as:

   - One or more preservative (s), to ensure the biostability of the final product.

   - One or more moisturizing agents.

   - One or more dye(s), pigment(s) or additive(s) to change the color of the final product.

   - One or more fragrance(s), essential oil(s) or other odoriferous compound(s).

   - One or more additive(s) plant, mineral, marine or synthetic, deemed 'active' in the cosmetic field.
8. Process, according to claim 7, characterized in that the preservative system consists of a combination of 0.3% to 1% phenoxyethanol of 0.2% to 2% pentylene glycol and 0.05% to 1.5% of Ethylhexylglycerin.
9. Process according to claim 7, characterized in that the moisturizing agent consists of 10% to 30% vegetable glycerin and 0 to 15% of a polysaccharide.

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