EP3038713B1 - Composition hydratante sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau; procédé de soin hydratant - Google Patents

Composition hydratante sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau; procédé de soin hydratant Download PDF

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Publication number
EP3038713B1
EP3038713B1 EP14753089.3A EP14753089A EP3038713B1 EP 3038713 B1 EP3038713 B1 EP 3038713B1 EP 14753089 A EP14753089 A EP 14753089A EP 3038713 B1 EP3038713 B1 EP 3038713B1
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composition
weight
process according
oil
chosen
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German (de)
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EP3038713A1 (fr
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Magalie RAVAUD
Matthieu Cassier
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for moisturizing a human keratin material, in particular the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the surface of the said keratin material on contact with water of a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
  • compositions that have good moisturizing efficacy, which may be applied to wet skin especially under the shower or in the bath, and which may be rinsed off easily, leaving, after wiping and drying on the skin, a water-resistant film that makes it possible to obtain a soft, slightly tacky and sparingly greasy feel, which makes it possible to get dressed quickly and to obtain, after 24 hours, a sensation of well-moisturized skin.
  • These compositions must also be stable under storage conditions, especially after two months at room temperature (20-25°C) and after two months at 45°C and without any drop in pH or loss of viscosity.
  • Moisturizing milks that may be applied to wet skin are known on the market, such as the product Olay Body® - "Quench In-Shower Body Lotion” comprising the following ingredients: water, petrolatum, mineral oil, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, fragrance, stearyl alcohol, mica, polysorbate 60, titanium dioxide, DMDM hydantoin, cetyl alcohol, triethoxycaprylylsilane, disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, tin oxide.
  • Olay Body® “Quench In-Shower Body Lotion” comprising the following ingredients: water, petrolatum, mineral oil, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, fragrance, stearyl alcohol, mica, polysorbate 60, titanium dioxide, DMDM hydantoin, cetyl alcohol, triethoxycaprylylsilane, disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol iodoprop
  • This type of composition has, firstly, the drawback of producing after application a deposit of thick, water-resistant film which gives a sensation of tacky skin, requiring a waiting time before getting dressed that is similar to that of a body milk applied to unmoistened skin.
  • this type of formulation contains as emulsifying surfactant Polysorbate-60 (or oxyethylenated (20 OE) sorbitan monostearate), which may lead to problems of stability on storage, reflected by phase separation of the emulsion and/or a drop in pH and/or a loss of viscosity.
  • a moisturizing milk that may be applied to wet skin is also known, such as the product Nivea® - "Under the shower Body Balm Nutritive” comprising the following ingredients: water, microcrystalline wax, liquid paraffin, glycerol, cetearyl alcohol, hydrogenated cocoyl glycerides, stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, sea salt, sodium carbomer, sodium acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, aluminium starch octenylsuccinate, phenoxyethanol, methylisothiazolinone, linalool, limonene, butylphenyl methylpropional.
  • This type of composition has, firstly, the drawback of producing after application a deposit of thick, water-resistant film which gives a sensation of tacky skin, requiring a waiting time before getting dressed that is similar to that of a body milk applied to unmoistened skin
  • composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
  • the present invention relates to a process for moisturizing a human keratin material, in particular the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the surface of the said keratin material on contact with water of a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:
  • the present invention more particularly relates to a cosmetic care process for moisturizing a human keratin material, in particular the skin, on contact with water (for example under the shower or in the bath), characterized in that it comprises the application to the surface of the said human keratin material of a composition as defined previously, followed by rinsing with water and wiping.
  • human keratin material means the skin (of the body, face and around the eyes), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, bodily hair, nails, lips or mucous membranes.
  • physiologically acceptable medium means any medium that is compatible with the skin and/or its integuments, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging, tautness or redness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.
  • a physiologically acceptable medium is preferentially a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium.
  • hydrophilic gelling polysaccharide means a polysaccharide compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.
  • the gelling agent is hydrophilic and is thus present in the aqueous phase of the composition.
  • the gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible in the said aqueous phase.
  • emulsion means any macroscopically homogeneous, kinetically stable composition comprising at least two mutually immiscible phases; one being a dispersing continuous phase and the other being dispersed in the said continuous phase in the form of droplets.
  • the two phases are kinetically stabilized by at least one emulsifying system generally comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant.
  • oil-in-water emulsion means a composition consisting of an aqueous dispersing continuous phase and an oily dispersed discontinuous phase.
  • nonionic surfactant means any surfactant having a nonionic hydrophilic part and a lipophilic part.
  • emulsifying surfactant refers to any surfactant compound or mixture of surfactant compounds that is capable of increasing the kinetic stability of an emulsion. These compounds are generally amphiphilic and are surfactants characterized by their more or less hydrophilic or more or less lipophilic nature which will determine their ability to stabilize direct emulsions or inverse emulsions. They are especially classified by their HLB according to the calculation method of W.C. Griffin in the document “Classification of Surface Active Agents by HLB, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 1 (1949) 311 " and in the document “ Calculation of HLB of Non Ionic Surfactants, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 5 (1954) 249 ".
  • HLB 20 ⁇ M h / M
  • M h is the molar mass of the hydrophilic part of the surfactant and M is the total molecular mass of the molecule.
  • the aqueous phase of the emulsions or compositions for use in the invention contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.
  • the aqueous phase of the emulsions is preferably present in a composition for use in the invention in a content ranging from 30% to 70% by weight and in particular from 32% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • An aqueous phase that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
  • a natural spring water such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
  • the water-soluble or water-miscible solvents that are suitable for use in the invention comprise short-chain monoalcohols, for example C 1 -C 4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
  • monoalcohols for example C 1 -C 4 monoalcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol
  • diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether,
  • use may more particularly be made of propylene glycol, glycerol or sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
  • a water-soluble organic solvent may be present in a composition for use in the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight and in particular from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • compositions for use in the invention comprise a mixture of nonionic surfactants comprising (i) at least one fatty acid ester of polyol and (ii) at least one fatty acid ester of polyalkylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycol that are suitable for use in the invention are preferably chosen from esters of a polyalkylene glycol and of a C 8 -C 24 , in particular C 10 -C 22 , more particularly C 12 -C 20 and more preferably C 14 -C 18 fatty acid.
  • the fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycol are chosen from esters of polyalkylene glycol and of a C 12 -C 22 fatty acid.
  • the fatty acid may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
  • esters of polyalkylene glycol that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of esters of polyalkylene glycol and of a fatty acid chosen from capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid and erucic acid.
  • a C16-C20 fatty acid polymer that may be mentioned is poly(12-hydroxystearic acid).
  • a fatty acid may be chosen from lauric acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid and palmitic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyalkylene glycol blocks that are suitable for use in the invention may advantageously be polyethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol blocks, or combinations thereof, and are preferably polyethylene glycol blocks, comprising from 1 to 100 units, especially from 2 to 50 units, preferably from 4 to 40 units, more preferably from 6 to 30 units and more preferentially from 40 to 100 units of alkylene oxide.
  • the fatty acid esters of polyalkylene glycol that may be used according to the invention are esters formed from 1 to 100, or even from 2 to 75, or even from 3 to 50, and preferably from 4 to 40 ethylene oxide units and from at least one fatty acid chain comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • ethoxylated fatty esters that are particularly suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of the stearic acid ester comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52® (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by the company ICI, or the behenic acid ester comprising 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO® by the company Gattefosse, or PEG-8 isostearate such as the product sold under the name Prisorine 3644® by the company Uniqema, and mixtures thereof.
  • CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate by the company ICI
  • behenic acid ester comprising 8 ethylene oxide units such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO® by the company Gattefosse
  • PEG-8 isostearate such as the product sold under the name Prisorine 3644® by the company Uniqema,
  • fatty acid ester of polyol means an ester of polyol and of fatty acid or of fatty acid polymer in which the fatty acid or the fatty acid polymer comprises at least one carboxylic function and at least one C 7 -C 23 alkyl chain, and the polyol is chosen from glycerol, a polyglycerol and sorbitan, and mixtures thereof.
  • a fatty acid ester of polyol may be a polyester, and preferably a fatty acid diester of polyol.
  • a fatty acid ester of polyol that is suitable for use in the invention may preferably be chosen from esters of a polyol and of a fatty acid or a fatty acid polymer, and preferably a C 8 -C 24 , in particular C 10 -C 22 , more particularly C 12 -C 20 and more preferably C 14 -C 18 fatty acid.
  • the fatty acid may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty acid may be a dicarboxylic acid containing from 10 to 16 carbon atoms, such as sebacic acid or dodecanedioic acid.
  • esters of polyol that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of esters of polyol and of a fatty acid chosen from capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid and erucic acid.
  • the fatty acid is stearic acid or isostearic acid.
  • C 16 -C 20 fatty acid polymer An example of a C 16 -C 20 fatty acid polymer that may be mentioned is poly(12-hydroxystearic acid).
  • the fatty acid ester of polyol is chosen from esters of glycerol or of polyglycerol and of a C 8 -C 24 and preferably C 16 -C 20 fatty acid.
  • polyglycerol means a compound having the following general formula: in which the degree of condensation n ranges from 1 to 11, preferably from 2 to 9 and even more preferentially from 3 to 5.
  • fatty acid esters of polyglycerol that are preferred according to the invention, mention may be made especially of: glyceryl stearate citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 stearate (and) hydrogenated lecithin sold under the name Heliofeel® by Lucas Meyer, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate sold under the name Tego Care 450® by Evonik Goldschmidt, glyceryl stearate SE sold under the name Tegin Pellets® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, and mixtures thereof.
  • Glyceryl monostearate and PEG-100 stearate such as the product sold under the trade name Arlacel 165® by the company Croda, under the trade name Simulsol 1650 by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name Tego Care C180® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt.
  • the mixture of nonionic surfactants is present in an active material content ranging from 0.2% to 6% by weight, preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 4% by weight and even better still from 0.8% to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the emulsions for use in the invention may also contain at least one additional emulsifying surfactant and preferably at least one additional nonionic emulsifying surfactant.
  • compositions for use in the invention comprise at least one fatty alcohol that is preferably C 10 -C 22 and more preferentially C 16 -C 22 .
  • fatty alcohol means any non-alkoxylated alcohol comprising a linear saturated hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular consisting of a linear alkyl chain, the said chain comprising at least 10 carbon atoms and a hydroxyl function.
  • hydrocarbon-based chain means an organic group predominantly consisting of hydrogen atoms and carbon atoms.
  • the additional emulsifying surfactant(s) are present in an active material content ranging from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.4% to 6% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 6% by weight and even better still from 0.8% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • oil phase means a phase comprising at least one oil and all of the lipophilic ingredients and the fatty substances used for the formulation of the compositions for use in the invention.
  • the oily phase comprises at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one pasty apolar lipophilic hydrocarbon-based compound.
  • the oily phase of the emulsions is preferably present in a composition for use in the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight and in particular from 10% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based compound(s) consisting of the mixture of apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) and of pasty lipophilic hydrocarbon-based compound(s) advantageously represent from 6% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 6% to 25% by weight and even more preferentially from 13% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • lipophilic apolar hydrocarbon-based compound means any apolar hydrocarbon-based compound that can be fully dissolved in molecular form in an oily phase or that can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an oily phase.
  • oil means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • pasty apolar lipophilic hydrocarbon-based compound means an apolar lipophilic hydrocarbon-based compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystal organization, and comprising, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • apolar lipophilic hydrocarbon-based compound means a lipophilic hydrocarbon-based compound whose solubility parameter at 25°C, ⁇ a, is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • the apolar lipophilic hydrocarbon-based compounds for use in the invention have a surface tension of less than or equal to 10 mN/m at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the surface activity is measured by static tensiometry using the Du Noüy ring.
  • the principle of the measurement is as follows (measurement carried out at 25°C, at atmospheric pressure):
  • the weight of the ring is neutralized by a tare.
  • the parameters r and R respectively denote the internal and external radii of the ring.
  • hydrocarbon-based compound means an organic compound predominantly consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms and more particularly free of heteroatoms.
  • heteroatom means an atom other than carbon or hydrogen.
  • non-volatile apolar lipophilic hydrocarbon-based compound means any apolar lipophilic hydrocarbon-based compound whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mmHg and better still less than 10 -3 mmHg.
  • apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils examples include:
  • liquid paraffin also known under the INCI name: mineral oil or liquid petroleum jelly
  • Marcol 82® and Marcol N 82® by the company ExxonMobil Chemical and Blandol® by the company Sonneborn.
  • pasty apolar hydrocarbon-based compounds mention may be made of the pasty linear or branched hydrocarbons derived from petroleum known under the INCI name: petrolatum, especially mineral jelly, white petrolatum, yellow petrolatum.
  • white petrolatum also known under the name petroleum jelly, such as the commercial product sold under the name White Fonoline H® by the company Sonneborn.
  • the oily phase of the compositions for use in the invention comprises a mixture of at least one apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and of at least one apolar hydrocarbon-based compound and more particularly a mixture of liquid paraffin (or mineral oil) and of petrolatum and even more particularly a mixture of liquid paraffin (or mineral oil) and of white petrolatum.
  • the oily phase may also comprise other additional lipophilic compounds.
  • oils or non-volatile polar pasty compounds mention may be made of oils or non-volatile polar pasty compounds.
  • polar oil and "polar pasty substance” mean any lipophilic compound having, at 25°C, a solubility parameter ⁇ d characteristic of dispersive interactions of greater than 16 and a solubility parameter ⁇ p characteristic of polar interactions strictly greater than 0.
  • solubility parameters ⁇ d and ⁇ p are defined according to the Hansen classification.
  • the parameters ⁇ p, ⁇ h, ⁇ D and ⁇ a are expressed in (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the lipophilic polar compound(s) for use in the invention have a surface tension of greater than 10 mN/m at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the surface activity is measured by static tensiometry using the Du Noüy ring according to the same method indicated previously.
  • the lipophilic polar compounds are preferably hydrocarbon-based.
  • polar lipophilic hydrocarbon-based compound means a polar lipophilic compound formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the additional polar lipophilic compound(s) advantageously represent from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially from 1% to 15% by weight and even more preferentially from 2% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • silicon oil or gum means an oil or gum comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
  • fluoro oil is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • the non-volatile silicone oils may be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, which groups each contain from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
  • PDMSs non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl
  • volatile silicone oils examples include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 ⁇ 10 -6 m 2 /s) and in particular containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the wax is in general a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change in state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • waxes mention may be made of beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, or synthetic waxes, such as polyethylene waxes or Fischer-Tropsch waxes.
  • polysaccharide means any polymer consisting of several saccharides (or monosaccharides) having the general formula: -[C x (H 2 O) y )] n - (in which y is generally x - 1) and linked together via O-oside bonds.
  • hydrophilic gelling polysaccharide means any water-soluble or water-dispersible polysaccharide that is capable of giving a gelled solution after implementation with or without heating.
  • polysaccharides may be divided into several categories.
  • polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.
  • they may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch.
  • polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be distinguished according to whether or not they are starchy.
  • starchy polysaccharides are preferably chosen from starches.
  • non-starchy polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabics, galactomannans, glucomannans and pectins, and derivatives thereof.
  • the non-starchy polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglycans, gum arabics, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and non
  • Starches are preferentially used.
  • the hydrophilic gelling polysaccharide(s) are present in contents ranging from 0.5% to 8% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hydrophilic gelling starches that may be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers formed from elemental units that are anhydroglucose units.
  • the number of these units and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer).
  • the relative proportions of amylose and of amylopectin, and their degree of polymerization, vary as a function of the botanical origin of the starches.
  • the amylose/amylopectin weight ratio may range from 30/70 (corn) to 16/84 (rice).
  • the molecular weight of the amylose is preferably up to 1 million by weight and that of the amylopectin is preferably from 100 to 500 million by weight.
  • starch molecules used in the present invention may be unmodified or chemically or physically modified.
  • starches may be chosen from corn starch, rice starch, tapioca starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch, palm starch and pea starch.
  • unmodified starches examples include unmodified corn starches (INCI name: Zea mays starch), for instance the products sold under the trade name Farmal CS®, in particular the commercial product Farmal CS 3650® from the company Corn Products International.
  • unmodified rice starches INCI name: Oryza sativa (rice) starch
  • Remy DR I® sold by the company Beneo-Remy.
  • the starches used are modified by crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules, which will thus bond together (for example with glyceryl and/or phosphate groups).
  • Monostarch phosphates (of the type st-O-PO-(OX) 2 ), distarch phosphates (of the type st-O-PO-(OX)-O-st) or even tristarch phosphates (of the type St-O-PO-(O-St) 2 ) or mixtures thereof may especially be obtained by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds.
  • distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate in particular the hydroxypropyl ethers of distarch phosphate having the INCI name: Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, for instance the products sold under the trade names Farinex VA70 C or Farmal MS 689 ® from the company AVEBE Stadex; or the products sold under the trade names Structure BTC®, Structure HVS®, Structure XL® or Structure Zea® from National Starch (corn distarch phosphate).
  • the starch will be chosen from corn distarch phosphates or compounds rich in corn distarch phosphate, in particular corn distarch phosphate hydroxypropyl ethers.
  • the hydrophilic gelling starch(es) are present in contents of greater than 1% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 2% to 6% by weight and even more preferentially from 3% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions for use in the invention are oil-in-water emulsions. They are generally in the form of a lotion, a milk or a cream.
  • compositions for use in the invention in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion are obtained according to standard manufacturing processes. They may especially be obtained via a one-pot process in a tank, comprising emulsification of the aqueous and oily phases with heating so as to melt the lipophilic compounds, addition of the hydrophilic gelling polysaccharide, gelation with heating (especially to 70°C for the formation of a starch paste), and then dilution.
  • Another process by concentrated dilution, may also be performed for obtaining a glossy, fine white emulsion, the starch paste having been prepared beforehand with heating.
  • They may be packaged, for example, in tubes, bottles or pump-dispensing bottles, or in single-dose sachets.
  • the cosmetic compositions for use in the invention may contain additives that are common in cosmetics: pigments, dyes, biological active agents (anti-ageing, anti-greasy skin, lightening, bleaching, antioxidants), sunscreens, sequestrants, moisturizers, softeners, polymers, vitamins, preserving agents, or other cosmetic excipients.
  • additives that are common in cosmetics: pigments, dyes, biological active agents (anti-ageing, anti-greasy skin, lightening, bleaching, antioxidants), sunscreens, sequestrants, moisturizers, softeners, polymers, vitamins, preserving agents, or other cosmetic excipients.
  • Example 1 (invention)
  • Example 2 (outside the invention)
  • Example 3 (outside the invention)
  • White petrolatum (White Fonoline H® - Sonneborn) 13 13 13
  • Liquid paraffin (Blandol® - Sonneborn) 6.5 6.5 6.5
  • Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter
  • Cetearyl alcohol mixture (Nafol 1618 EN® - Sasol Germany GmbH Hamburg) 2 2 2 Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, trisodium salt, as an aqueous 30% solution
  • Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Structure Zea® - National Starch) 4 4 - Sodium polyacrylate (Cosmedia SP® - Cognis) - - 4
  • Monoglyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate mixture (Arlacel 165® - Croda) 2 - 2
  • Formulations 1 to 3 were obtained via a one-pot process in a tank, comprising emulsification of the aqueous and oily phases with heating so as to melt the lipophilic compounds, addition of the hydrophilic gelling polysaccharide, gelation at 70°C (formation of a starch paste), and then dilution.
  • Example 4 corresponds to the commercial product Olay Body® - "Quench In-Shower Body Lotion" comprising the following ingredients: water, petrolatum, mineral oil, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, fragrance, stearyl alcohol, mica, polysorbate 60, titanium dioxide, DMDM hydantoin, cetyl alcohol, triethoxycaprylylsilane, disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, tin oxide.
  • Olay Body® “Quench In-Shower Body Lotion” comprising the following ingredients: water, petrolatum, mineral oil, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, fragrance, stearyl alcohol, mica, polysorbate 60, titanium dioxide, DMDM hydantoin, cetyl alcohol, triethoxycaprylylsilane, disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, tin oxide.
  • Example 5 corresponds to the commercial product Nivea® - "Under The shower Body Balm Nutritive” comprising the following ingredients: water, microcrystalline wax, liquid paraffin, glycerol, cetearyl alcohol, hydrogenated cocoyl glycerides, stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, sea salt, sodium carbomer, sodium acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, aluminium starch octenylsuccinate, phenoxyethanol, methylisothiazolinone, linalool, limonene, butylphenyl methylpropional.
  • Nivea® - "Under The shower Body Balm Nutritive” comprising the following ingredients: water, microcrystalline wax, liquid paraffin, glycerol, cetearyl alcohol, hydrogenated cocoyl glycerides, stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, sea salt, sodium carbomer, sodium acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspoly
  • the Skin FX® skins were weighed on a precision balance (Mettler Toledo XP504®).
  • the hands and the reconstructed skin were moistened with water at 38°C.
  • the treated reconstructed skin was then dried for 35 minutes in an oven at 37°C.
  • the dried skin was weighed, and the weight gain was calculated to quantify the deposition of film on the skin.
  • the amount of product deposited is expressed in mg/cm 2 .
  • the average deposition of product on 3 measurements was determined for each Example 1 to 5.
  • composition 1 for use in the invention comprising the monoglyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate emulsifying mixture leads to a perceptible and sparingly tacky deposit, unlike composition 2 comprising as emulsifier Polysorbate-60 at the same concentration (2% by weight), which gives an insufficiently perceptible deposit.
  • composition 1 for use in the invention comprising the gelling agent hydroxypropyl starch phosphate led to a perceptible and sparingly tacky deposit, unlike composition 3 comprising as gelling agent sodium polyacrylate, which gives an excessively thick and tacky deposit comparable to a standard body milk applied dry.
  • composition 1 for use in the invention led to a perceptible and sparingly tacky deposit, unlike compositions 4 and 5, which give an excessively thick and tacky deposit comparable to a standard body milk applied dry.
  • composition 1 for use in the invention leaves a soft, sparingly greasy and sparingly tacky deposit, which makes it possible firstly to get dressed quickly and secondly a significant gain in moisturization after 24 hours. Furthermore, it is stable on storage especially after 2 months at a temperature of 45°C (absence of phase separation, of drop in pH and of loss of viscosity).
  • composition 1 A moisturization test was also performed on composition 1 according to the following protocol.
  • the electrical characteristics of the stratum corneum depend on the amount of water.
  • the measurements of the electrical capacity are taken using a corneometer.
  • the values given on a scale of arbitrary units from 0 to 130 show the degree of moisturization of the upper layers of the epidermis at a given time.
  • formulation 1 produced a statistically significant gain in moisturization at T30min, T8H and T24H.
  • Example 6 White petrolatum (White Fonoline H® - Sonneborn) 13 Liquid paraffin (Blandol® - Sonneborn) 6.5 Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter 0.5 Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, trisodium salt, as an aqueous 30% solution 0.2 Cetearyl alcohol mixture (Nafol 1618 EN® - Sasol Germany GmbH Hamburg) 2.8 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Structure Zea® - National Starch) 3.5 Polysorbate-60 0.5 Glycerol 1 Fragrance 1 Preserving agents qs Water qs 100
  • Composition 6 was prepared under the same conditions as Examples 1 to 3.
  • composition 6 comprising Polysorbate-60 as emulsifying surfactant was unstable on storage after 2 months at room temperature and at 45°C, which was reflected by a loss of viscosity and a drop in pH.
  • Example 7 (invention)
  • Example 8 (invention)
  • White petrolatum (White Fonoline H® - Sonneborn) 15 15 Liquid paraffin (Blandol® - Sonneborn) 7 7 Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter 3
  • Ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid, trisodium salt as an aqueous 30% solution 0.2 0.2
  • Cetearyl alcohol mixture (Nafol 1618 EN® - Sasol Germany GmbH Hamburg) 2 2 Hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Structure Zea® - National Starch) 4 4 Monoglyceryl stearate/PEG-100 stearate mixture (Arlacel 165® - Croda) 2 2 Glycerol 1 3 Fragrance 1 1
  • Preserving agents qs qs Water qs 100 qs 100 qs 100
  • compositions 7 and 8 were prepared under the same conditions as Examples 1 to 3. After application to wet, rinsed and wiped skin, they leave a water-resistant film, which has a soft, sparingly tacky and sparingly greasy feel, and, after 24 hours, give a sensation of well-moisturized skin.
  • the compositions are stable on storage after 2 months at room temperature and at 45°C.

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Claims (17)

  1. Procédé d'hydratation d'une matière kératinique humaine, en particulier la peau, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend l'application à la surface de ladite matière kératinique, lors d'un contact avec de l'eau, d'une composition sous la forme d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable :
    a) au moins une phase aqueuse ; et
    b) au moins une phase huileuse comprenant au moins une huile hydrocarbonée non volatile et apolaire et au moins un composé hydrocarboné lipophile apolaire et pâteux ; et
    c) au moins un polysaccharide gélifiant hydrophile ; et
    d) au moins un mélange d'agents tensioactifs non ioniques émulsifiants comprenant (i) au moins un ester d'acides gras et de polyol et (ii) au moins un ester d'acides gras et de polyalkylène glycol.
  2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, dans lequel ladite composition est caractérisée en ce que :
    - la phase aqueuse est présente selon une teneur allant de 30% à 70% en poids et en particulier de 32% à 60% en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition ; et
    - la phase huileuse est présente selon une teneur allant de 1% à 40% en poids et en particulier de 10% à 30% en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition.
  3. Procédé selon la revendication 1 ou 2, dans lequel ladite composition est caractérisée en ce que :
    - l'ester d'acides gras et de polyalkylène glycol est choisi parmi des esters formés à partir de 1 à 100, voire de 2 à 75, ou voire de 3 à 50, et préférablement de 4 à 40, motifs d'oxyde d'éthylène et d'au moins une chaîne d'acide gras comprenant de 12 à 22 atomes de carbone, et
    - l'ester d'acides gras et de polyol est choisi parmi des esters de glycérol ou de polyglycérol et d'un acide gras en C8-C24 et préférablement en C16-C20.
  4. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel ladite composition est caractérisée en ce que le mélange d'agents tensioactifs non ioniques est un mélange de monostéarate de glycérol et de stéarate de PEG-100.
  5. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel ladite composition est caractérisée en ce que le mélange d'agents tensioactifs non ioniques est présent selon une teneur en matière active allant de 0,2% à 6% en poids, préférablement de 0,4% à 5% en poids, mieux encore de 0,5% à 4% en poids et toujours mieux de 0,8% à 4% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.
  6. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel ladite composition est caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend au moins un agent tensioactif émulsifiant supplémentaire et plus particulièrement un agent tensioactif non ionique choisi parmi les alcools gras en C10-C22.
  7. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel ladite composition est caractérisée en ce que le mélange d'huile(s) hydrocarbonée(s) apolaire(s) et de composé(s) hydrocarboné(s) lipophile(s) pâteux représente de 13% à 40% en poids, plus préférablement de 6% à 25% en poids, et encore plus préférablement de 6% à 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.
  8. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel ladite composition est caractérisée en ce que :
    - les huiles hydrocarbonées non volatiles apolaires sont choisies parmi les mélanges d'hydrocarbures dérivés de pétrole brut, en particulier la paraffine liquide, et
    - les composés hydrocarbonés apolaires et pâteux sont choisis parmi les mélanges d'hydrocarbures dérivés de pétrole brut, en particulier le pétrolatum, choisis notamment parmi la gelée de pétrole, le pétrolatum blanc et le pétrolatum jaune.
  9. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel ladite composition est caractérisée en ce que la phase huileuse comprend un mélange de paraffine liquide (ou d'huile minérale) et de pétrolatum, et encore plus particulièrement un mélange de paraffine liquide et de pétrolatum blanc.
  10. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel ladite composition est caractérisée en ce que la phase huileuse comprend en outre une huile hydrocarbonée polaire et non volatile, choisie de préférence parmi les huiles végétales et les beurres végétaux, et plus particulièrement les fractions liquides de beurre de karité.
  11. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans lequel ladite composition est caractérisée en ce que le polysaccharide gélifiant est choisi parmi les polysaccharides de type amidon et préférablement parmi les amidons non modifiés ou modifiés par voie chimique ou physique.
  12. Procédé selon la revendication 11, dans lequel ladite composition est caractérisée en ce que l'amidon est choisi parmi les phosphates de di-amidon ou les composés riches en phosphate de di-amidon, en particulier les hydroxypropyl éthers de phosphate de di-amidon.
  13. Procédé selon la revendication 12, dans lequel ledit amidon est choisi parmi les phosphates de di-amidon de maïs ou les composés riches en phosphate de di-amidon de maïs, en particulier les hydroxypropyl éthers de phosphate de di-amidon de maïs.
  14. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 11 à 13, dans lequel le ou les amidons gélifiants hydrophiles sont présents selon des teneurs supérieures à 1% en poids, plus préférablement allant de 2% à 6% en poids, et encore plus préférablement de 3% à 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.
  15. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 14, dans lequel ladite composition se trouve sous la forme d'une lotion, d'un lait ou d'une crème.
  16. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que ladite composition est appliquée à la surface de la matière kératinique humaine lors d'un contact avec de l'eau, ledit procédé comprenant ensuite un rinçage par de l'eau et un essuyage de ladite matière kératinique.
  17. Utilisation d'une composition telle que divulguée selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 15, destinée à l'hydratation d'une matière kératinique humaine, en particulier la peau, lors d'un contact avec de l'eau.
EP14753089.3A 2013-08-29 2014-08-21 Composition hydratante sous forme d'émulsion huile-dans-eau; procédé de soin hydratant Active EP3038713B1 (fr)

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FR1358254A FR3009956B1 (fr) 2013-08-29 2013-08-29 Composition hydratante sous forme d’emulsion huile-dans-eau ; procede de soin hydratant
PCT/EP2014/067809 WO2015028381A1 (fr) 2013-08-29 2014-08-21 Composition d'hydratation pouvant être appliquée, pour mouiller la peau, sous la forme d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau ; procédé de soin d'hydratation

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US11642293B2 (en) 2017-10-25 2023-05-09 L'oreal Composition for caring for skin, method and use thereof
DE102018214479A1 (de) * 2018-08-28 2020-03-05 Beiersdorf Ag Acrylatfreie kosmetische Emulsion
DE102018214478A1 (de) * 2018-08-28 2020-03-05 Beiersdorf Ag Acrylatfreie kosmetische Emulsion
US20220323332A1 (en) * 2019-08-28 2022-10-13 Beiersdorf Ag Acrylate and silicone-free cosmetic o/w emulsion
JP7566532B2 (ja) 2020-08-19 2024-10-15 クラシエ株式会社 全身用乳化化粧料
WO2023028807A1 (fr) * 2021-08-31 2023-03-09 L'oreal Composition pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de matières kératiniques
WO2023230956A1 (fr) * 2022-06-01 2023-12-07 Nivea (Shanghai) Co. Ltd. Émulsion sans silicones ii

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WO2015028381A1 (fr) 2015-03-05
FR3009956A1 (fr) 2015-03-06
EP3038713A1 (fr) 2016-07-06
ES2790647T3 (es) 2020-10-28
RU2016111291A3 (fr) 2018-07-13
US20160206531A1 (en) 2016-07-21
FR3009956B1 (fr) 2018-05-11
CN105473185A (zh) 2016-04-06
RU2717579C2 (ru) 2020-03-24
CN105473185B (zh) 2020-04-28
RU2016111291A (ru) 2017-10-02
US9913786B2 (en) 2018-03-13

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