EP2978504B1 - Teil, vorrichtung und verfahren zum verriegeln eines seiles - Google Patents

Teil, vorrichtung und verfahren zum verriegeln eines seiles Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2978504B1
EP2978504B1 EP14712295.6A EP14712295A EP2978504B1 EP 2978504 B1 EP2978504 B1 EP 2978504B1 EP 14712295 A EP14712295 A EP 14712295A EP 2978504 B1 EP2978504 B1 EP 2978504B1
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Prior art keywords
rope
strand
ring
snap hook
slot
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EP14712295.6A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2978504A1 (de
Inventor
Michel Durand
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Individual
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Individual
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A62LIFE-SAVING; FIRE-FIGHTING
    • A62BDEVICES, APPARATUS OR METHODS FOR LIFE-SAVING
    • A62B1/00Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like
    • A62B1/06Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like by making use of rope-lowering devices
    • A62B1/14Devices for lowering persons from buildings or the like by making use of rope-lowering devices with brakes sliding on the rope
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A63SPORTS; GAMES; AMUSEMENTS
    • A63BAPPARATUS FOR PHYSICAL TRAINING, GYMNASTICS, SWIMMING, CLIMBING, OR FENCING; BALL GAMES; TRAINING EQUIPMENT
    • A63B29/00Apparatus for mountaineering
    • A63B29/02Mountain guy-ropes or accessories, e.g. avalanche ropes; Means for indicating the location of accidentally buried, e.g. snow-buried, persons

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a part for a device for locking a rope for climbing, boating, mountaineering, caving, rescue or for any other activity using ropes, as well as a locking device comprising this room.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for locking such a rope.
  • mountaineers or cavers make so-called "Dufour" knots with the rope, which allow them to descend on one strand and recall the rope with the other strand remaining free and thus to perform a succession of short abseils without having to to undo the tie-in knot.
  • Another solution consists of a material in the form of a hook which makes it possible to recover the rope by interacting on said hook with a cord of length equivalent to the recall carried out.
  • This technique is only used by seasoned specialists, because it meets strict rules for setting up and handling ropes.
  • the document US20030034203 describes another piece for a rope locking device which can rotate to lock and unlock the rope.
  • the document CA2297356 describes an electrical mechanism for removing a rope from a carabiner.
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a device for locking a rope which makes it possible to fix and lock the rope in an infallible and reliable manner.
  • Another object of the invention is that of proposing a device for blocking a rope which makes it possible to reuse the material used for a new rappel.
  • Another object is to provide a device that reduces the required tie-in equipment by half.
  • the ring is of substantially oval shape.
  • the first strand of the rope comprises the "frame", that is to say the strand of the rope which remains fixed and allows the descent or the ascent of a user.
  • the second strand of the rope comprises the "current", that is to say the free strand of a rope intended to be woven or to make a knot, and a securing loop.
  • This ejection mechanism is configured to move in a first direction, for example downward, when the first strand is tensioned, thereby blocking the second strand.
  • This ejection mechanism is also configured to move in a second direction opposite to the first, therefore for example upwards, when the first strand is released, thus unlocking the second strand.
  • the device according to the invention blocks the rope when it is put under tension, and releases it when it is released. It is therefore both a rope locking device and a rope release device. Its user therefore benefits from a strong belay point that can be neutralized from a distance.
  • the abseiling lengths are doubled for an equivalent material weight, or else the weight is reduced by half for the same abseiling length.
  • the efficiency of the tying equipment is improved, also making it possible to avoid risky abseiling rope recovery techniques.
  • the part according to the invention therefore allows the blocking (and unblocking) of a rope remotely by releasing a finger or ejection button actuated by a mechanical control.
  • the fact of using a precise and defined tension on the rope as a switching system makes, in this type of activity, the mechanism infallible and reliable even in extreme conditions of use.
  • the ejection mechanism comprises a movable ejector finger, and an elastic element, for example a spring.
  • the movable ejector finger is arranged to slide through a through hole on the upper surface of the workpiece.
  • the part comprises an upper slot and a side slot.
  • the upper slot is defined by the upper surface and the part of the part comprising the hole.
  • the top surface includes teeth or spikes.
  • the upper surface has an inclination with respect to a horizontal line of an angle comprised between 15° and 25°, for example 20°.
  • the part comprises a means, for example another hole, arranged to make a locking point for the rope.
  • the part comprises a remote electronic control module for the ejection mechanism.
  • the ring which in a preferential variant has an oval shape, or the carabiner is arranged to slide in the upper slot and/or in the side slot of the part.
  • the ring or carabiner is configured to slide in the side slot in the first direction, for example downward, when the rope is tensioned, so as to move the ejection mechanism in the first direction and lock the loop mooring formed by the rope.
  • the method can include the step of remote control of the ejection mechanism.
  • the material used can therefore be recovered.
  • the device is characterized by a fixed main body [ ⁇ ] through which the cord [R] circulates in the orifices [A] and [B].
  • the device is characterized in that when mobilizing the mobile ring or a carabiner of suitable size, it interacts directly on the rope at [R1, R2], causing the partial closure of the light [ AT].
  • the device is characterized in that closing the lumen at [A] blocks the rope [R] at [R1, R4].
  • the device is characterized by arming an ejection finger [P1], remotely controlled by releasing the rope or any other remote-controlled electronic process.
  • the device is characterized by the formation of a solid loop [D] of adaptable size between the orifices [A] and [B] of the main body [ ⁇ ] allowing the securing of the assembly [ ⁇ , G ,R,P] to a fixed point shown in [E].
  • the device is characterized in that the main body [ ⁇ ] resting downstream on a blocking node [R4] or any other blocking element and upstream on the blocking of the rope in [A] , creates a solid loop [D] of variable size.
  • the device is characterized in that a tight knot [R6] on a mobile ring or a carabiner of suitable size [G] in an area [C] comes to rest on said attachment point [E] and allow the stowage of the abseiling rope [R] on which the user can freely descend or climb on the end of the rope [R7].
  • the device is characterized in that when the strand of the rope [R7] is released, a mechanical or electronic communication is transmitted and picked up by the ejection mechanism [P] so that it resumes its position high resting position by releasing the spring [P2] or any other mechanism allowing a similar result.
  • the device is characterized in that the return to the high position of the ejection mechanism [P] also allows the return to the high position of the mobile ring or of the carabiner of suitable size [G].
  • the device is characterized in that the return to the high position of the mobile ring or of the snap hook of suitable size [G], opens the slot [A]. Since the compression at [3] of the rope at [R1,R2] is no longer ensured by the mobile ring or a carabiner of suitable size [G], the abseiling rope [R] is then released from the hole [ A] of the device [ ⁇ ].
  • the device is characterized in that releasing the rope at [A] releases the loop [D] at its securing point [E].
  • the figure 2 illustrates a device for locking a rope for climbing, boating, mountaineering, caving, or for any other activity using ropes according to one embodiment of the invention.
  • the ring has an oval shape.
  • the ⁇ part illustrated in detail on the figures 1A to 1D , comprises at least one slot or groove to cooperate with the oval-shaped ring or carabiner G.
  • the part ⁇ comprises two grooves, an upper groove 1, visible on the Figure 1A , and a lateral groove 2, visible on the figure 1C .
  • the grooves 1, 2 are arranged to receive at least part of the oval-shaped ring or carabiner G, and in particular they have a shape arranged so that the ring or carabiner G can slide in these grooves.
  • Part ⁇ includes a movable finger or ejection mechanism P, visible in detail on the figure 2 .
  • this ejection mechanism P comprises an ejection pusher P1, a spring P2, and a plug P3.
  • Part ⁇ comprises in correspondence of its upper groove 1 a hole T, visible on the Figure 1A , configured to allow passage of the ejection pusher P1.
  • the ejection pusher P1 opens into the upper groove 1 of the part ⁇ .
  • the present invention is not limited to the presence of a spring, but any other elastic device or elastic mechanism can be used in its place.
  • the spring can be replaced by an elastic paste or jelly, or by a piston compressing a certain quantity of fluid, for example air, or any other equivalent means.
  • the plug P3 is a disk which has a thickness of less than 5 mm, for example equal to 3 mm.
  • This plug P3 has the sole function of acting as a support for the spring P2 or any other elastic means equivalent to the part ⁇ .
  • the plug P3 can be glued to the part ⁇ , or else screwed to this part or even be blocked in place by a rivet or any other appropriate means.
  • the part ⁇ can be made of metal, plastic or composite. It can consist of a single piece (monobloc), or be made by assembling different pieces.
  • hole B The function of hole B is to block the rope in at least one point. In other words, hole B allows you to make a locking point for the rope. Alternatively, hole B can be replaced by a self-tightening notch, a hook, or any other device that allows the rope to be blocked at one point.
  • the distance between the two holes A and B must be sufficient to prevent the part of the rope R3 visible on the picture 3 compresses the part of the rope R2, still visible on the picture 3 , when tensioning the rope, as will be seen later.
  • the distance between the two holes A and B is in a variant greater than 20 mm, for example greater than 40 mm.
  • the holes A and/or B are chamfered on the outside.
  • holes D are not necessary for the operation of the blocking device. These holes may therefore be absent.
  • the part ⁇ comprises a substantially horizontal surface 3 which is not smooth, because it comprises teeth.
  • the adjective “horizontal” indicates that the surface is substantially perpendicular to the direction of the force of gravity during use of the blocking device.
  • the surface 3 is not toothed, but it can also be crenellated or include peaks.
  • the oval-shaped ring or the carabiner G comprises, at least in correspondence of its part which cooperates with the surface 3 of the part ⁇ , a non-smooth surface, then the surface 3 can be devoid of teeth.
  • the surface 3 is not horizontal, but it has an inclination with respect to a horizontal line by an angle comprised in the range 15°-25°, for example 20°.
  • the surface of the oval-shaped ring or G carabiner can be smooth.
  • the part ⁇ will be easier to manufacture, and also lighter.
  • a knot or any other blocking mechanism in correspondence of hole B prevents any sliding in R3.
  • the strand of rope R5 is connected without tension to the oval-shaped ring or carabiner G using a tight knot R6, for example a double mooring knot as shown in the picture 3 , or any other type of tight knot, for example "double capstan knot” or "bump knot”.
  • the function of the R6 knot is therefore to attach the R rope to the oval-shaped ring or carabiner G, and above all to ensure that even under tension the rope at R5 remains perfectly relaxed.
  • the oval-shaped ring or the carabiner G slides in the grooves 1 and/or 2 of the part ⁇ .
  • the oval-shaped ring or the carabiner G transmits on the one hand directly the force of tension in a zone corresponding to the intersection between the hole A and the groove 1, and on the other hand it comes to arm in position low the ejector system P of the figure 2 by compression of the spring P2.
  • the oval-shaped ring or the carabiner G then turns into a tightening instrument, sufficiently closing the hole A (for example at least 80% of the hole is closed) and dragging parts of the rope R1 by compression and pinching, R2 and R3 blocking loop D between points A and B.
  • the rope R is therefore strongly compressed, without being cut or damaged, between the oval-shaped ring or the carabiner G and the upper surface 3 of the part ⁇ visible on the figure 1D .
  • the ejector finger P1 is then pressurized until it tends to disappear into the body of the device through the hole T.
  • Blocking the rope therefore allows the user to descend or climb freely on the "dormant" rope strand R7.
  • the return to the "high" position of the ejection mechanism P also allows the oval-shaped ring or the carabiner G to slide upwards. This return to the high position of the ring or the carabiner G opens the hole A. In other words, the release of the tension aided in addition by the release of the ejector finger P1 brings the oval-shaped ring or the carabiner G back to their initial rest position allowing the release of the rope.
  • the ring or carabiner G therefore constitutes both the attachment member and the adjustable clamping member cooperating with the upper surface 3 of the part ⁇ .
  • the device thus produced, provides optimum safety in extreme weather conditions, both at the level of the rope blocking, and during the recovery of the housing assembly with rope.
  • the ejection button P1 can be controlled remotely by releasing and/or tensioning the rope R and also by a remote-controlled electronic process. For example, when the strand of the rope R7 is released, a communication is transmitted and picked up by the ejection mechanism P so that it resumes its "high" rest position by the relaxation of the spring P2 or any other mechanism allowing a similar result.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Pulmonology (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Business, Economics & Management (AREA)
  • Emergency Management (AREA)
  • Emergency Lowering Means (AREA)

Claims (15)

  1. Teil (Ω) für eine Vorrichtung zur Arretierung eines Seils (R) für den Klettersport, den Wassersport, das Bergsteigen, die Erkundung von Höhlen oder den Rettungsdienst, wobei das Seil (R) einen ersten Strang (R7) und einen zweiten Strang (R1, R2, R3) umfasst, wobei das Teil (Ω) Folgendes umfasst:
    - mindestens ein Loch (A), das zur Aufnahme des Seils (R) angeordnet ist,
    - mindestens einen Schlitz (1, 2), der zum Zusammenwirken mit einem Ring oder einem Karabinerhaken (G) angeordnet ist und in dem der Ring oder der Karabinerhaken (G) in eine erste Richtung und in eine der ersten Richtung entgegengesetzten zweite Richtung gleiten kann,
    dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es Folgendes umfasst:
    - einen Mechanismus (P) zum Auswerfen des Seils (R), wobei der Auswurfmechanismus (P) einen beweglichen Auswurffinger (P1), ein elastisches Element (P2) und eine Stütze (P3) für das elastische Element (P2) umfasst,
    wobei der bewegliche Auswurffinger (P1) dazu ausgestaltet ist, sich in die erste Richtung zu bewegen, wenn das elastische Element (P2) dadurch zusammengedrückt wird, dass der Ring oder der Karabinerhaken (G) in die erste Richtung gleitet, sofern der erste Strang (R7) gespannt wird, wodurch der zweite Strang (R1, R2, R3) arretiert wird,
    und sich bei Entspannung des elastischen Elements (P2) in die zweite Richtung zu bewegen, wenn der erste Strang (R7) gelockert wird, wodurch veranlasst wird, dass der Ring oder der Karabinerhaken (G) in die zweite Richtung gleitet und wodurch die Arretierung des zweiten Strangs (R1, R2, R3) freigegeben wird.
  2. Teil nach Anspruch 1, wobei der erste Strang (R7) einen stehenden Teil umfasst und der zweite Strang (R1, R2, R3) einen laufenden Teil (R1) und eine Klemmschlaufe (2,3) umfasst.
  3. Teil nach Anspruch 1, wobei der bewegliche Auswurffinger (P1) dazu angeordnet ist, durch ein Durchgangsloch (T) in einer oberen Fläche (3) des Teils (Ω) zu gleiten.
  4. Teil nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, umfassend einen oberen Schlitz (1) und eine seitlichen Schlitz (2).
  5. Teil nach Anspruch 4, wobei der obere Schlitz (1) durch die obere Fläche (3) und den das Loch (A) umfassenden Abschnitt des Teils (Ω) definiert ist.
  6. Teil nach einem der Ansprüche 3 bis 5, wobei die obere Fläche (3) Zähne oder Spitzen umfasst.
  7. Teil nach einem der Ansprüche 3 bis 5, wobei die obere Fläche (3) bezüglich einer horizontalen Linie eine Neigung mit einem Winkel zwischen 15° und 25° aufweist.
  8. Teil nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 7, umfassend ein Mittel (B), das zum Schaffen eines Arretierungpunktes des Seils (R4) angeordnet ist.
  9. Teil nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, umfassend ein Modul zur elektronischen Fernsteuerung des Auswurfmechanismus (P).
  10. Vorrichtung zum Arretieren eines Seils (R) für den Klettersport, den Wassersport, das Bergsteigen, die Erkundung von Höhlen oder den Rettungsdienst, umfassend
    - das Teil (Ω) nach einem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche,
    - einen Ring oder einen Karabinerhaken (G).
  11. Vorrichtung nach Anspruch 10, wobei der Ring ein Ring mit ovaler Form ist.
  12. Vorrichtung nach einem der Ansprüche 10 oder 11, wobei der Ring oder der Karabinerhaken (G) dazu angeordnet sind, in dem oberen Schlitz (1) und/oder in dem seitlichen Schlitz (2) des Teils (Ω) zu gleiten.
  13. Vorrichtung nach einem der Ansprüche 10 bis 12, wobei der Ring oder der Karabinerhaken dazu ausgestaltet sind, in dem oberen Schlitz (1) und/oder in dem seitlichen Schlitz (2) in die erste Richtung zu gleiten, wenn der erste Strang (R7) gespannt wird, um den Auswurfmechanismus (P) in die erste Richtung zu bewegen, und in dem oberen Schlitz (1) und/oder in dem seitlichen Schlitz (2) in die zweite Richtung zu gleiten, wenn der erste Strang (R7) gelockert wird, um den Auswurfmechanismus (P) somit unter Freigabe der Arretierung des zweiten Strangs (R1, R2, R3) in die zweite Richtung zu bewegen.
  14. Verfahren zum Arretieren eines Seils (R) für den Klettersport, den Wassersport, das Bergsteigen, die Erkundung von Höhlen oder den Rettungsdienst, wobei das Seil (R) einen ersten Strang (R7) und einen zweiten Strang (R1, R2, R3) umfasst, wobei das Verfahren die folgenden Schritte umfasst:
    - Herstellen eines Arretierungsknotens (R6) des Seils an einem Karabinerhaken oder an dem Ring (G),
    - Herstellen eines Punkts (B, R4) zum Arretieren des Seils an dem Teil (Ω), indem eine Schlaufe (R5) zwischen dem Arretierungsknoten des Seils (R6) und dem Arretierungspunkt (B, R4) des Seils hergestellt wird,
    - Einführen des Karabinerhakens oder des Rings (G) in mindestens einen Schlitz (1, 2) des Teils (Ω),
    - Führen des zweiten Strangs (R1, R2, R3) in einen Verankerungspunkt (E) durch Herstellen einer Klemmschlaufe (R2, R3),
    - Führen des zweiten Strangs (R1) in ein Loch (A) des Teils (Ω),
    - Bewegen des Rings oder eines Karabinerhakens (G) in mindestens einem Schlitz (1, 2) des Teils (Ω) in eine erste Richtung, wenn ein Benutzer das Seil an dem ersten Strang (R7) spannt,
    - Bewegen eines beweglichen Auswurffingers (P1) eines Auswurfmechanismus (P) des Teils (Ω) in die erste Richtung, wobei der Auswurfmechanismus auch ein elastisches Element (P2) und eine Stütze (P3) für das elastische Element (P2) umfasst, durch Zusammendrücken des elastischen Elements (P2) durch den Ring oder den Karabinerhaken (G),
    - Arretierung des zweiten Strangs (R1, R2, R3) zwischen dem Ring oder dem Karabinerhaken und einer oberen Fläche (3) des Teils (Ω),
    - Bewegen des elastischen Elements (P1) in eine der ersten entgegengesetzte zweite Richtung durch Entspannen des elastischen Elements (P2), wenn der Benutzer keine Spannung mehr auf den ersten Strang (R7) ausübt,
    - Bewegen des Rings oder des Karabinerhakens (G) in die zweite Richtung,
    - Lösen der Arretierung des zweiten Strangs (R1, R2, R3) .
  15. Verfahren nach Anspruch 14, umfassend:
    - elektronische Fernsteuerung des Auswurfmechanismus (P).
EP14712295.6A 2013-03-25 2014-03-24 Teil, vorrichtung und verfahren zum verriegeln eines seiles Active EP2978504B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IB2013000501 2013-03-25
PCT/EP2014/055884 WO2014154648A1 (fr) 2013-03-25 2014-03-24 Piece, dispositif et procede de blocage d'une corde

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2978504A1 EP2978504A1 (de) 2016-02-03
EP2978504B1 true EP2978504B1 (de) 2022-03-02

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EP14712295.6A Active EP2978504B1 (de) 2013-03-25 2014-03-24 Teil, vorrichtung und verfahren zum verriegeln eines seiles

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WO (1) WO2014154648A1 (de)

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4019609A (en) * 1975-11-03 1977-04-26 Wagner Kelly B Brake apparatus for use in rappelling
CA2297356A1 (en) * 2000-01-26 2001-07-26 Judith Riley Morton 3j1 electric rope removal system
US6561313B2 (en) * 2001-08-16 2003-05-13 Trimorphics, Inc. Belay/rappel device for use in climbing activities and the like
IT1396181B1 (it) * 2009-07-15 2012-11-16 Aludesign Spa Dispositivo assicuratore

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Publication number Publication date
EP2978504A1 (de) 2016-02-03
WO2014154648A1 (fr) 2014-10-02

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