EP2885989A1 - Method and assembly for forming textile fabrics - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a method and a system (11) for shaping textile structures (1, 15), the method comprising treating the textile structure (1, 15) with an alkali (21), fixing the textile structure (1, 15 ) on a mold (3, 27) and the forming of the textile structure (1, 15) by expansion of the mold (3) or in at least two sub-processes, wherein for the first sub-process a stencil mold (27) with at least one through-opening (2) open on both sides ( 33) is used, the textile structure (1, 15) the passage opening (33) is fixed overlapping, and a portion of the textile structure (1, 15) by means of a punch (35) of a second mold (29) under stretching of the textile structure (1, 15) is pressed through the passage opening (33), wherein the passage opening (33) in its geometry of the peripheral contour of the punch (35) is adapted, comprises.

Description

The invention relates to a method for forming textile structures, for. As of cotton knit fabric, forming appropriately shaped textiles, z. B. T-shirts or bra cups, wherein the manufactured textiles can be kept in particular free of allergenic and environmentally harmful chemicals. The invention also relates to a system for carrying out such a forming process.

In the textile industry diverse processes for forming textiles or fabrics are known, for. As for the production of brassiere cups ("cups") and general underwear. In conventional forming processes often remain foreign substances such. As chemicals or plastics, in the deformed textile, such foreign substances can lead to an allergenation of the carrier and also the consumer-side environmentally sound disposal of such foreign substances can be problematic. So z. B. known to produce molded textiles by means of thermal deformation of synthetic fibers; wherein, due to the required use of synthesis materials and / or foreign polymer impregnations, in addition to the abovementioned problems, the wearing comfort may be impaired.

In the production of shaped textiles using cotton and other natural fibers, the problems mentioned can be largely prevented. So z. B. for the production of underwear pure cotton fibers are used, but with the production of dimensionally stable, seamless textiles such. As bra cups, made difficult.

This describes the EP 0 630 588 B1 a method for forming textile fabrics of cellulosic natural fibers or cellulose-containing mixed fibers, by means of which the production of dimensionally stable, seamless textiles can be realized. According to the disclosed method, a fabric provided by means of a fabric web is first treated with a base in the de-energized state, whereby a shrinkage of the textile material takes place. The leached fabric section is separated from the fabric and then formed by means of a die. The thus formed textile is neutralized and dried, and optionally reformed by means of a shape identical to the mold form Heizform. However, it has been found that the method described has several disadvantages. So z. B. the forming by means of the die according to the described method only an inadequate shaping. In addition, the process requires -. In the manufacture of brassiere cups, which are required in many different forms - a corresponding variety of different swaging and thermoforming methods, which results in high costs.

Out EP 0 305 326 A1 is a method for leaching and spreading a fabric web known, in which initially only the edge zones of the fabric web are stabilized. By spraying at least twice the hot weak liquor or the superheated steam on the two edge zones, the tensile forces are distributed more uniformly over the entire fabric web during spreading by the tensioning chains of a chain mercerization part. In this way, different distances between the warp threads after stretching are avoided.

The object of the invention is to provide a cost-effective and flexible method for forming textiles or fabrics, by means of which an exact, variable shaping of textiles is made possible with natural fibers, wherein the textile parts are also dimensionally stable and are kept free from allergenic and environmentally harmful chemicals can. Furthermore, a plant for carrying out such a forming process is to be provided.

According to a first aspect of the invention, there is provided a method of forming a fabric or textile fabric; which comprises cellulosic fibers or cellulosic fibers, e.g. As cellulose-containing natural fibers or cellulose-containing mixed fibers exists. Such cellulosic natural fibers are z. As fibers of cotton, linen, hemp, sisal, jute, Kapok and mixtures thereof. The textile structure may be in the form of a woven, knitted or nonwoven structure.

The textile structure is treated or soaked with an alkali, wherein as alkali z. B. caustic soda can be used (preferably sodium hydroxide with a concentration of 28 to 32 Be). The leaching is preferably carried out at room temperature (18 ° C to 25 ° C) for a period of z. For example 30 seconds to 1 minute.

The textile structure is also reshaped by being stretched at least in sections by means of a mold in at least one direction predetermined by the shape. The mold may be an expandable frame which, after fixing the fabric structure thereon, expands under stretch (i.e., widthwise) the fabric structure. Such an expandable shape is also referred to below as an expansion form.

The form may for example also be made in two parts, wherein the two forms are mutually movable. The textile structure is z. B. on the first mold, the recesses or depressions, fixed before it is formed by a trained as a kind of stamp second form - according to the principle of a deep drawing press - under strain by the shifting forms.

The treatment of the textile structure with the liquor may take place before, during and / or after the textile structure is formed under stretching. In any case, the textile structure is kept under deformation in the state of being leached for a predetermined period of time by means of the mold. By treating the fabric with the caustic, shrinkage of the fabric occurs with reorientation of the cellulose molecules. By keeping the textile deformed by the mold in the state of being leached, it can shrink onto the mold to form a dimensionally stable textile, or the lye-induced shrinkage can be locally expanded by means of the mold.

By means of the stretching of the textile material through the mold, the liquor-induced shrinkage of the textile material can be at least partially undone or expanded with appropriate shaping, whereby a shaping without local material thinning is made possible (the material is returned by means of stretching only flat again to its original thickness ).

By varying the degree of expansion during the stretching of the textile material, a variable shaping is possible by means of one and the same shape (and thus in a simple manner).

The leaching of the textile fabric can, for. Example, by the fabric is biased above a bath of the liquor so that it is held above the alkali due to the bias, wherein the textile structure is pressed for leaching by means of a dipping into the liquor. The immersion device can, for. B. be realized by a dip stamp. By biasing the textile structure during curling and additionally tensioning it by means of the dipping device during curling, pre-shrinkage of the textile material prior to shaping by means of the stamp can be suppressed or reduced, whereby the textile can be more accurately brought to the shape of the stamp. In addition, the exposure time of the liquor can be variably adjusted by means of such a curiosity, wherein due to the simultaneous surface immersion, a homogeneous leaching of the entire textile fabric can be ensured. Alternatively, it can be provided to treat the flat textile structure by means of a padder with the liquor.

After the forming process, the leached textile structure is neutralized. The reshaped fabric may be subjected to one or more neutralization steps with water and / or acid as a neutralizing liquid to remove the liquor therefrom. The neutralization takes place z. Example, by rinsing the reshaped textile structure with water and / or treated or contacted with a lye neutralizing acid. Neutralizing acid may be (optionally diluted) formic acid or acetic acid.

By neutralizing the formed textile with removal and / or chemical neutralization of the liquor, the formed textile can be formed free of chemicals (i.e., without chemical residues), whereby the chemical substances used in the manufacturing process can be reused or disposed of in an environmentally friendly manner.

Neutralization preferably takes place while the textile structure is under deformation by means of the shaping mold. The neutralization may be accomplished by providing a container containing the neutralizing liquid below the forming means including the mold, the container for neutralizing the textile structure under deformation is moved in such a way from bottom to top that the leached textile material together with the mold is immersed or introduced into the neutralizing liquid.

According to a first embodiment of the method according to the invention, the textile structure is applied to an expandable form (eg stretched out), wherein the textile structure can be fixed by means of a fixing device. The textile structure is applied to the still unexpanded form. The forming of the textile structure takes place by being stretched by expanding the mold. The expansion form can be designed such that it expands differently in different sections thereof, so that z. B. can change the shape of the expansion form during expansion.

The expansion can z. B. pneumatically, hydraulically or mechanically expanded. In the first two cases, it may be provided to form the expansion mold from an elastically deformable material, which can be expanded by introducing a gas or a liquid. Expansion of the expansion form may be accompanied by both expansion of the mold increasing the volume occupied by the mold and changing the geometry or shape of the mold.

According to a second embodiment of the method according to the invention, the textile structure is formed into at least two sub-processes. In particular, in a first forming process a first mold is used, in which a through opening open on both sides is formed. Due to this particular embodiment of the first form, this is referred to below as "template shape". The sheet textile structure is fixed on the stencil form so as to cover the through hole at one side thereof. It can be provided to tension the textile structure by means of a clamping frame over the passage opening. Now, a portion of the fabric structure is pressed by means of a punch or plunger through the through hole, wherein the textile structure is stretched in this section. The stamp provided for forming is also referred to as a forming die and can be made of a plastic material (eg PVC).

The passage opening is adapted in shape to the geometry of the peripheral contour of the punch, so that the stamp can be performed with the over-stretched textile section substantially accurate fit through the through hole. The projection of the passage opening along the pressing direction of the punch thus corresponds to the peripheral contour of the punch transversely to its pressing direction, enlarged by a (small) scaling factor. It can, for. B. be provided that the through hole is circular and the punch is formed with a circular peripheral contour, wherein the through hole and the punch are arranged concentrically to each other (of course, the circular passage opening has a larger radius than the circular punch contour).

By conforming the passage opening to the peripheral contour of the punch, the textile structure can not only rest against the punch face of the punch during forming, but can also be snugly held against the punch at the back base of the punch, thereby ensuring accurate forming can. By the passage opening is kept open on both sides, the stamp can be arbitrarily far passed through the through hole during the forming, whereby the elongation of the fabric structure can be varied as desired under appropriate variable shape. In addition, the through opening, which is open on both sides, allows excess liquor to be pressed out of the textile material and escape of the liquor pressed out.

For the following on the forming process neutralization can be provided that the forming punch is at least partially hollow and has a perforated front-side punch surface. By forming the forming die perforated, upon insertion of the forming die with the over-stretched, leached textile material into the neutralizing liquid, it can flow completely through the leached fabric, allowing for effective neutralization while retaining the deformation.

This embodiment of the method also has a second forming process in addition to the first forming process. According to one embodiment, the second forming process is carried out by means of during the first forming process the die is preformed by means of a die, the die having a different geometry than the die (ie, the die forming portion of the die has a different geometry than the die forming portion of the die). The shape is used for final shaping and is therefore also referred to as final form. The pre-formed by the stamp textile is thus, preferably after neutralization, removed from the stamp and subjected to the second forming process (between the first and the second forming process also further treatment steps can be performed).

The shape-forming portion of the final shape has a different shape than the shape-forming portion of the stamp. It can, for. B. be provided that the stamp surface corresponds to a rotationally symmetric geometry and the shape-forming portion of the final form has a non-rotationally symmetric geometry.

It can be provided, in particular, that the stamp on the front side has a mold-forming surface as a stamp surface, which follows the rounded surface of a spherical segment or a spherical shell segment (so that the front portion of the stamp corresponds to the shape of a ball cap), wherein the stamping surface z. B. may correspond to the shape of a hemisphere. In this case, it may be provided that the surface geometry of the shape-forming section of the final shape deviates from the shape of a spherical shell segment or a spherical cap.

By the die-forming stamping surface having a different shape than the shape of the final mold (or its forming section), by means of the stamp, by reversing a part of the alkali-induced textile shrinkage, a preforming of the textile, whereby subsequently by means of the final form with additional stretching or reversal of the textile shrinkage Fine adjustment of the final geometry of the reshaped textile occurs. So z. B. brassiere cups and cups in many different sizes and shapes required; It has been found that by means of a small number (eg three) of differently sized stamps with a round or spherical surface, substantially all required brassiere sizes and shapes can be produced by the textiles preformed by means of the stamps by means of appropriate final shapes be brought into their final form. In particular, the freely selectable passage depth of the punch through the passage opening also allows, with the use of one and the same punch, a variation of the preforming produced by the punch, whereby a further variation of the preforming is made possible by using different punches with different rounding radii of the punch surface. As a result, the required number of different stamp geometries and stencil shapes can be kept small (in particular smaller than the required number of different final mold geometries), as a result of which the production method can be implemented even more effectively and cost-effectively.

The final form can z. B. a two-part mold or a two-part die with a lower shell and an upper shell (ie., An upper die and a lower die), wherein z. B. the lower shell can act as a die and the upper shell as a patrix. The pre-formed by means of the stamp textile is then pressed for further deformation by means of the upper shell in the lower shell. However, the final form can also be designed as a single-shell form. The second forming process carried out by means of the final mold is preferably carried out at a higher temperature than the first forming process by means of the punch; wherein the second forming process in this case is also referred to as so-called "hot-molding" or "hot-forming". The hot-forming z. B. at a temperature of 80 ° C to 190 ° C take place.

The hot-forming by means of the final form is preferably carried out in the wet state of the textile material, whereby z. B. the shape optimized and a yellowing of the textile material can be prevented. In this regard, provision may be made for the textile material preformed by means of the stamp to be initially only partially dried after neutralization and / or rinsing so that a non-vanishing residual moisture (of, for example, 10% -15%) remains in the textile material, and the residual-moistened textile material of the Undergo hot-forming. Alternatively, it may be provided to first completely dry the textile material preformed by means of the stamp after neutralization and / or rinsing and then to moisten it again while increasing its moisture, preferably with water. By the preformed textile is first completely dried, z. B. after neutralization in the textile residual impurities residues by means of drying completely be removed from the textile, while also reliably preventing potential reactions of such residues (with each other or with the textile material) during the hot-forming.

According to one embodiment, the textile structure is formed tubular or tubular; wherein the tubular fabric is applied to an expandable mold by applying it to the mold while introducing the mold into the tubular fabric. Accordingly, the mold is thus introduced into the tube interior of the tubular textile structure, so that the mold is enveloped by the hose jacket, and then the mold is expanded.

This embodiment is suitable for. For example, for making garment upper body sections (i.e., garments for clothing the human upper body).

It can be provided, in particular, that the expansion mold is designed such that it (at least) in the expanded state has at least one concave (that is to say inwardly curved) outer surface which acts as a shaping or shaping surface. D. h., It can be provided that the outer surface of the expansion form (at least) in the expanded state has a concave surface portion or a concave surface portion. It may further be provided that the expansion form in the expanded state has a biconcave geometry or shape, preferably a symmetrical biconcave geometry. Accordingly, the expansion form z. B. have a waist-shaped portion or waist section; d. H. a forming portion having a waisted shape (at least) in the expanded state of the mold.

In this regard, it may be provided that the tubular textile structure is wound onto the expansion mold in such a way that, when the mold is expanded, the waisted shape is transferred from the mold to the textile structure, so that the tubular textile structure is provided with a sidecut. For this purpose, the expansion mold can be formed with two side faces or waist side surfaces which (at least) assume a concave shape in the expanded state of the mold, wherein the textile tube is pulled onto the mold such that the hose jacket (or portions thereof) abuts the waist side surfaces and is deformed upon expansion of the shape of the same to form a sidecut. According to this embodiment, the tubular textile structure can be formed into a textile structure with a preformed Taillierungsabschnitt and z. B. be used as a body portion for a garment upper part. It can also be provided to use the thus-tailored textile structure as a body section for a T-shirt. Alternatively it can be provided to separate the thus waisted tubular fabric along the axial direction of the hose, form a button facing at the separation point, and to use the textile element thus obtained as a body portion for a shirt or a blouse.

In addition to the waisted section, the expansion mold may have further shaping sections, e.g. B. a bust forming portion having (at least) in the expanded state of the expansion form the shape of a female breast area. Accordingly, it can be provided in particular that the expansion form (at least in the expanded state) has the shape of a human torso or trunk or is modeled on such a shape.

According to one embodiment, it is provided that the textile fabric is first processed as part of a textile web or fabric web and separated from the fabric web after passing through a first forming process and before passing through a second forming process. As a result, the textile material can be kept under tension continuously until completion of the first forming process, whereby pre-shrinkage of the textile material occurring before the first forming process can be suppressed. In addition, by separating the textile material after completion of the first forming process, the size of the separated material section can be adapted exactly to the actual material requirement, so that no large excess of material has to be planned in this regard.

The separation of the fabric from the textile web is also preferably after the textile surface portion has been neutralized. As a result, alkali-induced corrosion of the holding and separating tools required for separating can be prevented. When separating the textile fabric from the textile web, it is preferable to have both end sections which are formed on both sides of the separation point the textile material fixed (eg., By means of terminal strips), wherein the textile z. B. under tension isolated (eg cut) can be.

According to a further aspect of the invention, a system for forming a textile structure is provided. The system is designed to carry out the method for forming a textile structure according to one of the above-described embodiments, so that in the following, only a brief description of the matching configurations of the system is given and, moreover, reference is hereby made to the corresponding explanations regarding the method.

The plant (also referred to as "forming plant") has in particular a leaching device for treating or impregnating a textile fabric with a liquor, wherein the leaching device z. B. may be in the form of the immersion device explained above. The forming system also has at least one forming device, comprising one or more molds, for forming the textile structure.

The forming system may also include other means for treating the fabric structure, for. B. a neutralizing device for neutralizing the leached textile structure by means of one or more neutralizing liquids, a separating device for separating the textile structure from a textile web, a rinsing device for rinsing the separated textile structure, a drying device for drying the neutralized textile structure, and / or a moistening device for moistening the dried textile fabric.

The forming device can be designed such that it has an expandable shape or expansion form for carrying out a forming process.

In order to carry out the second embodiment of the method according to the invention, the forming installation may have a first forming device for carrying out a first forming process and a second forming device for carrying out a second forming process. The first forming device has a stencil shape and a stamp shape, wherein the stencil shape has at least one through opening that is open on both sides, the geometry of the circumferential contour a stamp of the stamp shape is adapted. The system is designed in such a way that the textile fabric can be fixed covering it by way of the through-opening and a section of the textile fabric can be pressed through the through-opening by means of the stamp while the textile fabric is stretched. It may be provided, in particular, that the contour of the passage opening and the peripheral contour of the punch are circular and arranged concentrically with one another. The stamp may be at least partially hollow and may have a perforated stamp surface. The textile fabric can be fixed by means of clamping by a clamping frame.

According to one embodiment, the second shaping device has a final shape for deforming the textile sheet (preformed by means of the stamp), the final shape having a different shape geometry than the stamp. It can be provided that the stamp surface follows a round geometry and that the shape-forming section of the final shape deviates from a round geometry. In particular, it may be provided that the shape-forming section or the shape-forming surface of the final shape corresponds to the shape of a brassiere cup.

The forming installation may be designed in such a way (eg by means of appropriate tempering devices) that the first forming process is carried out by it at a different temperature than the second forming process. It may be provided that the first forming process by means of the punch is performed at room temperature (i.e., 18 ° C to 25 ° C) and the second forming process by the final mold at a temperature in a range of 80 ° C to 190 ° C.

The forming process and the forming equipment have been described above with reference to a single punch, that is, with reference to the formation of a single stretched portion of the fabric structure. However, it can be provided analogously to simultaneously form a plurality of (eg two) punches and a plurality of passage openings to form a plurality of stretched or deformed sections on the textile structure and to reshape the thus preformed sections by means of correspondingly designed final forms.

By means of the invention, it is possible, for example, to produce textile structures in the form of a body section of a clothing upper part, a brassiere shell or other undergarments.

Figur 1

in zwei Schnittansichten ein schlauchförmiges Textilgebilde, das auf eine Expansionsform im nicht expandierten Zustand aufgezogen ist;

Figur 2

in einem Schnitt das schlauchförmige Textilgebilde auf der Expansionsform im expandierten Zustand;

Figur 3

ein fertig umgeformtes Textilgebilde;

Figur 4

einen Abschnitt einer Umformanlage;

Figur 5

einen Querschnitt einer Schablonenform mit zwei Stempeln;

Figur 6

einen perforierten Hohlstempel;

Figur 7

eine Darstellung zur Erläuterung eines Neutralisierungsschrittes; und

Figur 8

eine Darstellung zur Erläuterung weiterer Verfahrensschritte.

The invention is illustrated below with reference to two embodiments with reference to the accompanying figures, wherein the same or similar features are provided with the same reference numerals; Here are shown schematically:

FIG. 1

in two sectional views, a tubular fabric formed on an expansion mold in the unexpanded state;

FIG. 2

in a section, the tubular textile structure on the expansion mold in the expanded state;

FIG. 3

a finished formed textile structure;

FIG. 4

a section of a forming plant;

FIG. 5

a cross-section of a template form with two punches;

FIG. 6

a perforated hollow die;

FIG. 7

a representation for explaining a neutralization step; and

FIG. 8

a representation for explaining further method steps.

The FIGS. 1 to 3 illustrate a method for forming a textile structure according to a first embodiment of the method according to the invention.

As FIG. 1 shows, the tubular fabric 1, which consists of a cotton knit fabric, mounted on the expansion mold 3, that the expansion mold 3 is disposed inside the fabric tube 1; being in FIG. 1 the expansion form 3 has not yet expanded. The left picture in FIG. 1 shows a along the axial direction of the fabric tube 1 extending vertical section of the expansion mold 3 with the fabric tube 1; the right figure in FIG. 1 shows a transverse to the axial direction of the fabric tube 1 extending horizontal section of the expansion mold 3 with the fabric tube 1. In the in FIG. 1 illustrated, unexpanded state, the expansion mold 3 is substantially a cuboid shape.

The fabric tube 1 is now filled with a sodium hydroxide solution with a concentration of 30 Be treated. The impregnation of the fabric tube 1 with the liquor takes place by the expansion mold 3 is immersed together with the fabric tube 1 mounted thereon in the liquor.

After the lye-treating of the fabric tube 1, the expansion mold 3 is expanded while stretching the fabric-treated tube 1 which has been drawn thereon. FIG. 2 illustrates in a vertical section the expansion mold 3 in the expanded state. The expansion mold 3 is designed such that it has a waisted shape or geometry with two concave side surfaces 5 in the expanded state. The tubular textile structure 1 is left on the expanded mold 3 for 45 seconds, whereby the waisted shape of the expanded mold 3 is transferred to the textile structure 1.

After completion of the forming, the leached fabric 1 is neutralized by immersing the expanded mold 3 together with the deformed fabric tube 1 mounted thereon in acetic acid. The transformation by means of the expansion form and the neutralization by means of the acid take place here at room temperature. After neutralization by means of the acid, the formed textile structure 1 is subjected to one or more rinsing operations with water.

Subsequently, the expansion mold 3 is brought back into its (non-expanded) initial state and subtracted the formed textile 1 of the expansion mold 3. FIG. 3 shows the reshaped fabric 1, which is used as a body portion for a garment top, namely for the T-shirt 7. To illustrate this use is in FIG. 3 the fabric tube 1 provided with the waisting by means of the forming is illustrated with two sleeve sections 9, which are attached to the waisted body section 1 to form the T-shirt 7.

The FIGS. 4 to 8 illustrate an embodiment of a forming system 11 for carrying out a second embodiment of the forming process.

According to FIG. 4 is the fabric roll 15 unwound from the fabric roll 13 of a cotton knit fabric. The fabric web 15 is guided by means of two pairs of rollers 17, 19 via a lye bath 21; wherein the panel 15 is biased to be due to the bias is initially held above the lye bath 21. The lye bath 21 consists of sodium hydroxide solution with a concentration of 30 Be. By means of the immersible plunger 23, which can be moved up and down, a section of the material web 15 is immersed in the liquor 21 by the immersion plunger 23 being moved downwards into the liquor bath 21. The movements of the immersion plunger 23 are in FIG. 4 marked by an arrow; Analogous to this are the traversing movements of movable remaining system parts in FIG. 4 also each marked with an arrow illustrating the movement.

The fabric section arranged below the dip stamp 23 is immersed in the alkaline bath 21 for a dipping time of 45 seconds. The so laugenbehandelte fabric section is guided by acting as Abquetschwalzenpaar pair of rollers 19, where excess liquor is removed from the fabric.

Subsequently, the leached fabric section is guided via various deflection rollers to the first forming device 25, which has a first mold 27 in the form of a stencil mold, a second mold 29 in the form of a double punch and the clamping frame 31. The stencil mold 27 has two openings 33 open on both sides. The leached fabric section is arranged by the forming unit 11 on the template mold 27, so that the two through holes 33 are covered by the leached substance. Now, the leached fabric portion is clamped by lowering the clamping frame 31 on the template mold 27 and thus fixed.

The forming 11 is formed such that the fixed portion of the clamping frame 31 fabric section is deformed by lowering the double punch 29 under strain. The double punch 29 has two individual stamps 35. Each of the individual punches 35 is arranged concentrically with respect to one of the passage openings 33, so that when the double punch 29 is lowered, each of the individual punches 35 is guided through one of the two passage openings 33. As a result of each individual punch 35, a portion of the leached fabric material is pressed under stretching through the associated passage opening 33 therethrough.

Each of the passage openings is in its geometry to the peripheral contour of the associated Single stamp 35 shaped. In the present case, each individual punch 35 is designed as a cylindrical hollow punch with a hemispherical front-side punch surface, so that the peripheral contour of the single punch 35 is circular. In addition, each of the through holes 33 is also circular, wherein the circle radius of a through hole corresponds to the circular radius of the peripheral contour of a single punch 35 plus the fabric thickness and plus a (small) plus tolerance, so that covered with the fabric 15 single punch 35 each fit through the corresponding through hole 33rd is pressed.

FIG. 5 shows in a cross section the stencil mold 27 with the guided through the through holes 33 single punches 35, wherein also the stretched over the individual punches 35 textile material 15 is illustrated as a dashed line. Each of the individual punches 35 is formed as a hollow punch with a perforated front punch surface 34 and a rear base portion 36. The cross section of the perforated single punch 35 is in FIG. 6 illustrated.

The forming plant 11 also has the neutralizing device 37, by means of which an acid trough 41 filled with the acid 39, which is arranged below the first forming device 25, can be moved from bottom to top in such a way that the textile section under deformation by means of the individual punches 35 the acid 39 is introduced. In the present case, the leached cotton material is deformed under tension for a period of 30 to 60 seconds and then introduced into the acid 39 and thereby neutralized.

In FIG. 7 the deformed textile section is illustrated when the acid tub 41 has been raised, the section of substance fixed by means of the clamping frame 31 being completely incorporated into the acid 39, in the present case acetic acid. The acetic acid 39 acts as a neutralizing liquid to neutralize the liquor. The deformation by means of the double punch 29 and the neutralization by means of the acetic acid 39 occur at the prevailing in the production hall room temperature. The neutralizing device 37 further comprises stirring means in the form of a magnetic stirrer for stirring the acid 39 during neutralization (not shown).

After neutralization, the textile surface section 43, which has been shaped or preformed by means of the first shaping device 25, is separated from the material web 15 by means of the separating device 45 of the shaping system 11. The separating device 45 is realized here by a knife.

The thus preformed textile structure 43 is now, as in FIG. 8 illustrated by means of the Umformanlage 11 further treatment steps. The preformed textile structure 43 passes through z. B. the rinsing device 47 of the Umformanlage 11, wherein the preformed textile fabric 43 is subjected to one or more rinsing with water. The textile fabric 43 rinsed in this way can also pass through a drying device 49 of the forming installation 11 for the purpose of drying. Subsequently, the dried textile structure 43 of the moistening device 51 of the forming 11 is supplied. The moistening device 51 is designed in such a way that it moistens the dried, preformed textile structure 43 with water and is brought to a residual moisture content of 10% to 15%.

The forming system 11 also has a second forming device. The second forming device comprises the final mold 53 for reshaping the preformed textile structure 43. The final mold 53 has the two forming sections 59 formed by the upper die 55 and the lower die 57, these forming as shown in FIG FIG. 8 schematically illustrates a deviating from a round spherical surface shape (ie, a different shape geometry or shape than the shape-forming sections - in particular the stamp surfaces - the two individual punches 35 of the double punch 29). In the present example, the forming method and the forming apparatus 11 are provided for making brassiere cups, thus each of the forming sections 59 of the final form 53 takes the form of a brassiere cup (ie, a bust form).

The preformed textile structure 43 is pressed into the lower die 57 for final shaping by means of the upper die 55 and deformed to form the finished formed textile structure 61, wherein the two deformed sections of the finished formed textile structure 61 are each shaped in the form of a brassiere cup. The final mold 53 is formed as a heated mold, which is heated during the forming to a temperature between 80 ° C and 190 ° C.

List of reference numbers used

1

Textile fabric / fabric tube

3

expandable shape

5

concave side surface

7

Garment shell / T-Shirt

9

sleeve section

11

forming plant

13

cloth roll

15

web

17

roller pair

19

And squeeze couple

21

lye

23

Immersion device / puncture stamp

25

first forming device

27

first shape / template shape

29

second form / double cancel

31

clamping frame

33

Through opening

34

stamp surface

35

single punch

36

stamp base

37

neutralizer

39

acid

41

acid bath

43

preformed textile fabric

45

separating

47

flushing

49

drying device

51

humidifying

53

Form / Finalform

55

Upper die / shell of the final form

57

Lower die / shell of the final form

59

form-forming section of the final form

61

finished formed textile fabric

Claims (15)

Method for forming a textile structure (1, 15), comprising the following steps: - Treating the textile structure (1, 15) with an alkali (21); - Applying the textile structure (1, 15) on a mold (3, 27), and - Forming of the textile structure (15) under stretching of the textile structure (1, 15), characterized in that - The textile structure (1, 15) during the treatment with the liquor (21) is held under a bias, wherein the liquor (21) is homogeneously introduced into the textile structure (1, 15); - The mold (3) is expanded, or a second mold (29), comprising one or more bulges in the form of a punch (35), with each punch (35) in each case by a through opening (33) of the mold (27) completely covered by the textile structure (15) ), with stretching of the portion of the textile structure (15) covering the passage opening (33), wherein each passage opening (33) is adapted in its geometry to the peripheral contour of the punch (35) passing through it. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the textile structure (1, 15) before application to the mold (3, 27) with the liquor (21) is treated by holding it under bias above a lye bath (21) of the liquor and is introduced into the alkaline bath (21) in this prestressed state. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the treatment of the textile structure (1, 15) with the liquor after the application of the textile structure on the mold (3, 27). Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the textile structure (1, 15) is subjected after one or more forming processes of neutralization with water and / or acid (49) as a neutralizing liquid. A method according to claim 4, characterized in that the neutralization takes place by a container (41) containing the neutralizing liquid (39) being moved from the bottom upwards so that the textile structure (1) is deformed by means of the mold (3, 25) , 15) is introduced into the neutralizing liquid (39). Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the method comprises a second forming process, wherein the textile structure (43) is deformed by means of a final mold (53), wherein the final mold (53) has a different shape geometry than that for the first forming process used form (3, 35). A method according to claim 6, characterized in that the textile structure (43) is moistened before the second forming process while increasing its moisture. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the textile structure (1, 15, 43) is provided as part of a fabric web and is separated from the fabric web after the first forming process. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mold (3, 29) is pneumatically, hydraulically or mechanically expanded and / or moved. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the textile structure (1) is tubular, wherein the tubular textile structure (1) with the introduction of the mold (3) is pulled into the tubular textile structure on the same. Plant for carrying out a method according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises: a leaching device (21, 23) for treating a textile structure (1, 15) with a lye (21), - A forming device (25) with at least one mold (3, 27, 29), wherein a or more of the molds (3, 27, 29) expandable and / or movable, wherein the plant is designed such that the textile structure (1, 15) on one of the molds (3, 27, 29) is fixable and by expansion this form (3) or a relative to this form (27) relative movement of a second mold (29) under stretching of the textile structure (1, 15) selbiges this is permanently deformable. Installation according to claim 11, characterized in that it comprises two forming devices, wherein a first forming device (25) with a template form (27) and a die (29), comprising one or more individual punches (35), wherein the stencil form (27) one of Number of individual punches (35) identical number on both sides open through-openings (23), which are in their geometry in each case a peripheral contour of a single punch (35) form-adapted, and wherein the system (11) is formed such that from her the textile structure (15 ), the through-openings (33) can be fixed in a covering manner and sections of the textile structure (15) can be pressed through the through-openings (33) by means of the punches (35) while the textile structure (15) is stretched. Installation according to claim 12, characterized in that the contour of the passage openings (33) and the peripheral contour of the punches (35) are circular, wherein they are arranged concentrically to each other. Installation according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that the die (29) is at least partially hollow and at their individual punches (35) each having a perforated punch surface. Installation according to one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that the second forming device has a mold (53) for deforming the textile structure (43), wherein the mold (53) has a different shape geometry than the stamp (35) of the stamp mold ( 29).

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