EP0630588B1 - Method and device for transforming flat textile articles - Google Patents

Abstract

Described is a method for reshaping (transforming) textile sheet materials composed of pure natural fibres or a fibre blend by exposing the textile sheet material to sodium hydroxide solution at a concentration of 30 DEG Bé at a temperature of 60 DEG C, treating the textile sheet material for a certain period until a desired shrinkage process has occurred, then removing the sodium hydroxide solution mechanically, especially by squeezing, then mechanically forming the textile sheet material into a new shape, completely removing the rest of the sodium hydroxide solution, and end-treating the textile sheet material in accordance with the subsequent use. <IMAGE>

Description

The invention relates to a method for forming textile fabrics and a fabric made thereafter.

Such methods are in a variety of embodiments in the textile industry and in the equipment industry known. Such forming processes are used e.g. B. for the formation of hats and of brass cups and cups, and if necessary of men's underwear and the like.

For all laundry items that are directly on the body of the Carrier are worn, the problem is that by the treatment of the textile fabrics with Chemicals, plastics and other foreign substances are there too allergenization of the carrier can occur. It this leads to local contact eczema, skin irritation and generally to impairment of comfort.

Especially in the production of bras it is known for making bra cups or shells synthetic fibers, cotton blended fabrics or to use pure cotton.

The first two materials can be one undergo thermal deformation so as to to produce the necessary bra cups or cups. But there is the disadvantage that because the need to use synthetic materials and / or foreign polymer impregnation there is an impairment comfort comes.

It is known that pure underwear is also used for such underwear To use cotton fibers, but this has the disadvantage afflicted that one has dimensionally stable, seamless bra cups could not manufacture so far. To fix this disadvantage it was previously only known through equipment with To stiffen plastic polymers accordingly so that they could be subjected to thermal forming.

When using synthetic resin-containing impregnating agents Achieving dimensional stability, however, has the disadvantage that these impregnating agents are usually formaldehyde-containing and That is why the wearing comfort is severely impaired.

Otherwise there is such a thing in synthetic resin impregnation Bra the disadvantage that the elasticity of the fiber and the tensile strength decrease significantly.

Now-Moldability For All-Cotton Fabrics" von Cooper et al in Textile World, October 1963, Seiten 91 bis 92 ist bekannt, eine Verformung von Baumwollstoffen mit Verwendung von Laugen vorzunehmen.From the essay

Now-Moldability For All-Cotton Fabrics "by Cooper et al in Textile World, October 1963, pages 91 to 92, it is known to carry out a deformation of cotton fabrics using lye.

This article does use 25% Sodium hydroxide solution mentioned, but as inappropriate discarded because of a very high wash shrinkage in the subsequent Washing of the deformed goods occurs from about 10-25%.

Presentation of the article:

The article describes two known from the prior art Method. In both methods, the first step is to soak the Article provided with sodium hydroxide solution. After the first procedure these articles are then inserted into the mold, the mold becomes heated to 160 ° and the article deformed.

A second process also describes the watering of the Article, then washing with hot water, the Remove excess water and shape the item in a hot or cold form.

By frequently moistening and drying the textile is in the first procedure a very high expenditure of energy and time is required.

For the rest, the applicant has experience and attempts shown that it is at the specified degrees of shrinkage with Cooper of 10-25% it is excluded that the subsequent neutralization and washing in the Form takes place, but it can be assumed be that with this known method Sodium hydroxide treated structures, which are dried Carries caustic soda, must be removed from the mold, only to be neutralized and washed.

The author therefore rejects the ones he has given Degrees of shrinkage in the range between 10-25% from and therefore suggests using a preformed product Resin impregnation, and under heat to deform. But this was just in the context of the recognized present invention as disadvantageous because just allergy-causing substances such as formaldehyde are included which are sensitive to the wearer's skin can damage.

The invention is therefore based on the object method of the type mentioned at the beginning, that with significantly improved comfort of textile fabrics a less expensive production is guaranteed.

The invention is to achieve the object characterized by the technical teaching of claim 1, in which a new method is claimed becomes.

The invention accordingly relates to all of them textile fabrics, namely woven, knitted and nonwoven structures.

The essential difference according to the first embodiment of the present invention to the prior art mentioned at the outset in that the treatment with a lye is stress-free takes place, and before the forming process he follows.

Another major difference is that it is so Sodium hydroxide treated textile is deformed and in the shape remains fixed, even if the textile goes through a subsequent neutralization process.

This is the main difference to the one at the beginning mentioned prior art, because in the prior art the neutralization and washing takes place outside the Form, whereby the high, impermissible mentioned Degrees of shrinkage had to be accepted.

According to the invention are for the final treatment of the product provided several different ways that all should be encompassed by the inventive concept.

In a first method it is proposed that the Final treatment of the product also takes place in the form i.e. the product will be after neutralization washed in the mold and dried.

In a second, modified process feature after neutralizing in the form that Product removed from the mold, washed and then dried.

Tests by the applicant have shown that by the alkali treatment steps according to the invention and by the subsequent forming of the textile Fabric in the form, these treatment steps mentioned be carried out with the mold closed, there is a reorientation of the cellulose molecules, which leads to the required dimensional stability. So there is no need for cross-linking as with Resin impregnation is made because of that reorientation of the cellulose molecules according to the invention a similar dimensionally stable structure is created. in the The opposite is due to the synthetic resin impregnation of the Tissue greatly reduced what was considered is to be viewed disadvantageously. This affects that subsequent sewing of the article and also it affects the wearing properties of this Article.

In the method according to the invention Reorientation of the cellulose molecules the tear resistance improved, which is why the article so produced is optimal Processing and wearing properties gives.

In addition, there is leaching according to the invention the advantage that in the goods treated in this way Gloss effect is achieved, which is particularly true for corsetry is desired, and what else only through an elaborate Finishing can be achieved.

An additional advantage of the proposed procedure is that due to the increased tear strength achieved it is now possible for the first time that the goods too can be embroidered, which was not possible before. Because of the reduced tensile strength of plastic impregnated corsetry was not an embroidery makes sense because the embroidery holes tore out when worn and Mesh blasting damage occurred.

As further natural fibers, as textile fabrics are formed according to the present invention linen fibers are particularly suitable, Jute, hemp, kapok, sisal, including all fiber mixtures as textile fabrics according to the teaching of technical invention can be reshaped. Furthermore Synthetic fibers and mixtures of synthetic and Natural fibers.

It is important in the invention that the end product of present process without chemical residues and is therefore particularly comfortable to wear, so that allergenization of the user to everyone Case is excluded.

The previously mentioned term "fiber mixture" closes all synthetic fibers, which can be freely selected with the Natural fiber mentioned can be processed, so that textile fabrics are made from it, offer the highest comfort.

To simplify the description below, hereinafter always assumed a knitted cotton fabric, according to the technical teaching of the invention is reshaped. However, this does not limit the scope of the invention because the invention relates to all textile fabrics refer to the above were mentioned standing.

An important feature of the specified method is that the mechanical deformation of the textile fabric then occurs when the textile fabric under the influence of the lye mentioned. tries of the applicant have shown that at Exposure to caustic soda on natural fibers Shrinking process comes, which leads to a shrinkage of the entire textile fabric leads. This shrunk goods now undergo mechanical forming subjected, with this mechanical reshaping previously caused shrinkage in the lye bath again partially is canceled, making it due to the action of mechanical forming tools to stretch the fiber comes in the forming area and the shrinkage in this Accordingly, the area is partially canceled.

After the forming process, this textile is then Fabric treated so that the lye is completely is removed from the fabric, causing this textile Flat structures practically in their initial state is transferred. That means it will be a reshaped, residue-free textile fabric after the Invention creates what highest wearing comfort forms.

Of course, the present invention encompasses a certain pretreatment of the knitted cotton fabric at the entrance of the processing process, the z. B. can be bleached, prewashed or dyed.

It is also possible according to the invention that obtained starting product (end product) of the invention Process as intended such as B. dye, apply plasticizers, to use optical brighteners, finishing agents to attach, handle variators and the like. More.

It was mentioned above that the shrinkage of a Natural fiber is used in an alkali bath subsequently mechanical deformation of the alkali treated to achieve textile fabrics.

In a second embodiment of the present invention it is in an analogous application of the method provided that the dry goods were first formed and with fixed forming (i.e. in the forming tool remaining) subjected to the leaching process becomes.

It is important in both methods that the formed goods remaining in the forming tool Subsequent neutralization is subjected to to remove the sodium hydroxide solution.

It is not absolutely necessary to find a solution if the textile fabric in the mold remains if after removing the sodium hydroxide solution further treatment steps are connected, that were mentioned above.

In a preferred embodiment of the present Invention, it is preferred if sodium hydroxide solution is used that has a concentration of 30 ° Bé.

It is preferred in a temperature range of approximately 60 ° worked.

After the cotton knitwear has lingered in the lye bath with subsequent defined squeezing Lye removed as far as possible from the textile goods, then after a mechanical deformation feed.

In another embodiment of the present Invention is an order of instead of the lye bath Lye suggested through a foulard.

Such a foulard consists of two opposing ones rotating rollers that have a nip between them define by which the to be treated Goods run, with the above the nip Lye fleet is arranged.

Likewise, the liquor fleet can also be below the Roll nip are arranged, then the goods through an alkali bath located under the foulard running.

As a reshaping of these goods treated with lye all mechanical forming processes preferred, namely a die forming, a free forming Roll forming, blow molding, vacuum deep drawing and shrinking.

All of the above-mentioned forming processes use one Tool shape ahead, with the desired final Shape of the knitted fabric is to be achieved.

In the case of die forming, a die, i.e. So worked with male and female, while at free forming with only one die in the flat textile structure is molded becomes. Roll forming is done in a nip reshaped, the shaping reshaping by corresponding recesses in one roller reached will, in the corresponding projections of the opposite Engage the roller.

During blow molding, this is done with high pressure air Flat structures under possibly high temperatures over one Mandrel pulled, while in vacuum deep drawing Sheets under vacuum also over a mold is pulled.

When shrinking it is provided that one upwards directed convex tool shape with the textile Is covered, which then follows by appropriate lye treatment (e.g. over Spray nozzles) and so a shrinking process is subjected. This is usually provided that this textile fabric to the Edge areas are clamped to the shrinkage to take advantage of the goods and thus adapt to them To achieve tool shape.

1. Einbringen der trockenen, gegebenenfalls vorbehandelten Maschenware in ein Laugenbad

2. Verweilenlassen des Textils im Laugenbad für eine bestimmte Zeit, bis der gewünschte Schrumpfungsgrad erreicht ist

3. Entfernen der behandelten Ware aus dem Laugenbad mit teilweise mechanischer Entfernung der Lauge aus dem Textil

4. Unterwerfen einer mechanischen Umformung

5. Entfernen der Natronlauge aus dem Textil bei beibehaltener Umformung

6. Endbehandlung des umgeformten Textilgebildes.

The method according to the invention is therefore claimed in the context of two main claims (main claim and secondary claim), the first solution scheme having the following sequence:

1. Introduce the dry, optionally pretreated knitted fabric into a soapy bath

2. Allow the textile to remain in the lye bath for a certain time until the desired degree of shrinkage is reached

3. Removal of the treated goods from the lye bath with partial mechanical removal of the lye from the textile

4. Subject to mechanical deformation

5. Remove the sodium hydroxide solution from the textile while maintaining the deformation

6. Final treatment of the formed textile structure.

1. Einbringen des gegebenefalls vorbehandelten Textils in eine mechanische Umformung,

2. Einbringen des umgeformten Textils zusammen mit dem Umformwerkzeug in ein Laugenbad,

3. Entfernung der Lauge durch Spülen und/oder Säurebehandlung, während die Maschenware auf dem Umformwerkzeug verbleibt,

4. Endbehandeln des umgeformten Textilgebildes.

According to the second solution scheme, for which separate protection is claimed, the following procedure applies:

1. introducing the optionally pretreated textile into a mechanical forming,

2. introducing the formed textile together with the forming tool into an alkali bath,

3. removal of the alkali by rinsing and / or acid treatment while the knitted fabric remains on the forming tool,

4. Final treatment of the formed textile structure.

The process steps to be applied after the deformation can e.g. B. its rinsing of the fabric at 80 ° C z. B. under pressure with spray nozzles and in Combination with a diving process. With several Flushing processes can be switched in series. After rinsing, neutralize with a organic or inorganic acid by spraying and / or diving, preferably ants or Acetic acid is used.

Then it is rinsed cold, the goods are dried or the excess liquid is sucked away from the goods.

Then plasticizers can be sprayed on or optical Brighteners are applied. Following this, the Goods finally dried.

The product manufactured in this way is characterized by that they have no synthetic resins or other foreign polymers contains to fix the deformation. The one to fix the shape necessary chemicals are completely washed out, creating a physiologically high quality Articles, e.g. B. Bra is created.

This type of deformation does not only result in one formaldehyde-free, skin-friendly bra (e.g. beneficial for allergy sufferers), but offers advantages in manufacturing too.

For example:

• no products containing formaldehyde are used, i.e. it arises during processing (waste water / exhaust air) no formaldehyde
• it only fixes the deformation to lye, preferably sodium hydroxide used, which several times can be concentrated and reused. The alkali can be neutralized with acid for disposal will.

The advantages of the method according to the invention lie in that by the alkali treatment the tensile strength of the goods is significantly improved, as well as the feel and gloss of the treated fiber. With conventional deformation, which is relative high temperatures takes place, there is a risk the yellowing of the natural fiber, while this in the Methods excluded according to the invention with certainty becomes. For the rest, the advantage is that with goods manufactured using the method according to the invention improved absorbency compared to one according to the state the technology has thermally treated goods. in the the stretchability is also significantly improved. It is now possible for the first time to use laundry items to produce the highest wearing comfort, which is permanent have three-dimensional deformation, which also after varied washing is preserved.

This also results in less expensive production especially bra cups and cups because there is no need for complex assembly.

The subject matter of the present invention provides not only from the subject of the individual claims, but also from the combination of the individual Claims among themselves. All in the documentation disclosed information and features, particularly those in the drawings Spatial training shown are essential to the invention claimed as far as they are individually or in Combination are new compared to the prior art.

In the following the invention based on several Drawings illustrating execution paths explained in more detail. Here go from the drawings and their description further features and advantages essential to the invention Invention.

Show it:

Figure 1:

schematized the procedure according to the Invention in a first embodiment;

Figure 2:

schematically the procedure in one second embodiment;

Figure 3:

Side view of a die-forming machine;

Figure 4:

schematically in side view the forming by shrinking;

Figure 5:

compared to a modified procedure Figure 1;

Figure 6:

another modification of a process scheme.

According to Figure 1 from a roll of fabric 1 made from a treated or untreated Cotton knitwear can consist of a fabric 2 uncoiled and over pulleys 4 in a lye bath 3 initiated.

The fabric web 2 stays there for a certain time in the lye bath 3 of z. B. in the range between 10 and 40 sec.

Thereafter, the fabric web 2 is squeezed 5 led where a large part of the lye from the goods Will get removed. Then the fabric through one or more knives 6 in textile structure 7 divided, which are still soaked with sodium hydroxide solution. These textile structures 7 undergo mechanical shaping 8 subject to, as an embodiment a die in Figures 1 to 3 described in more detail becomes. The die 9 consists essentially of a or several forming stamps against the clamped Textile structure 7 are performed so Area of the deformation zones an elongation of the previously to achieve shrunk textile fabric.

Following the mechanical deformation, a Drying 10 can be connected to the with the Drying alkali treated goods and processing them further.

However, it is preferred if instead of drying the goods still in die 9, which are now as Textile structure 7 'is formed in one or more baths is transferred.

In a first embodiment, it is possible that a rinsing bath 11 is used as the first bath, in which the textile structure 7 'resting in the die 9 is introduced in order to make up part of the sodium hydroxide solution to remove the structure 7 '.

It is also the same in another embodiment of the Invention possible, a neutralization bath as the first bath 12 provide where the lye is neutralized.

One or more rinsing baths 11 can be arranged one after the other are switched, with different rinsing processes different temperatures.

After passing through the neutralization bath 12 the goods are fed to a suction station 13, where the remaining liquid for the most part Will get removed. Thereafter, a finishing treatment 14 be connected.

The drying 10 mentioned above is added, that in the lye bath 3 also with lye relatively less Concentration can be worked, with the Drying 10 reached the active concentration of the alkali becomes.

In the exemplary embodiment according to FIG. 2, that the dry fabric 2 immediately one undergoes mechanical deformation 8 and that Forming tool together with the formed textile structure 7 is lowered into the lye bath 3.

Then - after the mechanical deformation 8 - it will Formed textile structures 7 'remaining in the die 9 again a number of rinsing and neutralizing baths 11, 12, 13 fed, after which also a Final treatment 14 can take place.

It is also provided that the die 9 in the lye bath 3 lingers for a certain time so as to Shrinking process to the desired degree of shrinkage to be trained. After the shrinking process can be a pre-rinse and post-treatment process Intermediate level can be interposed. The dwelling is preferably carried out at room temperature in the absence of air.

Such an embodiment is shown in FIG mechanical deformation shown, being in one Column frame 17 a lifting drive 18 is arranged, which drives a die 9 in the vertical direction. On The die 9 is one or more tool shapes 23 arranged under which a clamping frame 19 lifting and is lowered.

First, the clamping frame 19 moves onto the support frame 21, on which the textile structure 7 lies flat. The clamping frame 19 then clamps this textile structure 7 at least in the peripheral areas, so that the Tool molds 23 down through the textile structure to press and carry out the forming in the desired areas.

The support frame 20 is in the area of a Support frame 21 mounted in the still a tub 22 arranged for collecting flowing liquid is. In addition to the linear actuator shown in the Arrow directions 15 and movable in the opposite direction is, it is of course possible, too to carry out horizontal displacement movements.

Instead of the linear actuator shown here, you can also endless deformation processes are carried out, i.e. Deformations in the area of a nip caused by two opposing, opposing forming rollers is formed.

Instead of the discontinuous described here Deformation processes can also be continuous Deformation processes are used and are accordingly claimed.

A free forming is shown in FIG The textile structure to be reshaped over a mold 23 7 is clamped. It is then sprayed over 24 treated with the lye, making it a Shrinkage comes and the textile fabric in the form of the formed structures 7 ', 7' 'on the mold 23 form-fitting.

The others can also be used via the spray nozzles 24 Liquids are brought to the textile structure, namely the neutralization solution and the rinsing solutions.

Figure 5 shows a modified embodiment a procedure compared to the procedure Figure 1

The same parts have been given the same reference numerals provided and it will only be subsequent the differences from the method of Figure 1 explained.

The goods are namely after the neutralizing bath 12 taken from the mold (die 9) and thus forms the textile structure 7 ''.

It is then washed with water in a washing machine Temperature range between 30 ° and 90 ° washed and subsequently flung. During the washing process tensides can be added.

After spinning in the washing machine 26 the textile fabric in a dryer 27, where it dried in the range from dry to damp with iron becomes.

The textile structure 7 * removed from the dryer 27 becomes then clamped on a heated mold 28, this should the shape in the heated mold be the one as in the same way by the previously described Die 9 was manufactured.

With the clamping on the heated mold 28 should So those during the washing process and the subsequent one Drying process occurred deformations again undone, also a possible one Wrinkles are removed.

The mold is heated in the range of approximately 60 ° to 200 °, depending on the dwell time of the textile structure depends in the form and on the sensitivity of the textile.

FIG. 6 shows the same processes as in FIG 5, i.e. the textile structure 7 '' is initially washed in a washing machine 26.

Leaves after washing and spinning the textile this as a textile structure 7x the washing machine 26 and is immediately clamped onto the heated mold 28 and dried there.

Regarding the drying temperatures and the length of stay of the textile structure 7 '' 'in the form 28 is on the previous description pointed out.

Figures 5 and 6 have in common that as Intermediate stage after deformation in the mechanical Forming 8 and before neutralizing in the neutralizing bath 12 drying 10 can take place.

Through the intermediate drying process (Drying 10) may have an increased lye concentration can be achieved in the textile structure 7 '.

Instead of the previously mentioned alkali concentration the 30 ° Bé sodium hydroxide solution can also be used by others Concentrations are used. The lye temperature can also be varied.

Instead of the sodium hydroxide solution described, others can Alkali are used, such as. B. potassium hydroxide solution, triethanolamine, Lithium hydroxide and mixtures of the above chemicals mentioned.

Likewise, the process parameters mentioned in wide limits are changed, but only significantly is that the goods have to be shrunk accordingly and the described mechanical deformation an elongation the fiber in the forming area.

DRAWING LEGEND

1

Roll of fabric

2nd

Fabric panel

3rd

Lye bath

4th

Pulley

5

Squeeze roller

6

knife

7.7 ', 7' ', 7' '', 7 *, 7 **, 7x

Textile structures

8th

mechanical forming

9

Die

10th

Drying

11

Rinsing bath

12th

Neutralizing bath

13

Suction station

14

Final treatment

15

Arrow direction

17th

Pillar frame

18th

Linear actuator

19th

Clamp frame

20th

Support frame

21

Support frame

22

Tub

23

Tool shape

24th

Spray nozzles

25th

Dwell level / dwell

26

Washing machine

27

dryer

28

heated mold

Claims (11)

1. Method for transforming planar textile articles (7', 7'') from cellulose-containing natural fibres or cellulose-containing mixed fibres with the following steps:

   treatment of the planar textile article (7', 7'') with a lye until a desired shrinkage process has occurred,

   mechanical removal of the lye by squeezing out,

   mechanical deformation of the planar article (7', 7''),

   removal of the remaining lye by washing out, adding neutralising agents or a combination thereof while the planar textile article (7', 7'') is fixed in shaping relationship, and

   final treatment of the planar textile article (7, 7'') according to subsequent use.
2. Method for transforming planar textile articles (7', 7'') from cellulose-containing natural fibres or cellulose-containing mixed fibres with the following steps:

   mechanical deformation of the planar article (7', 7''),

   treatment of the planar textile article structure (7', 7'') with a lye while the planar textile article (7', 7'') is fixed in shaping relationship until a desired shrinkage process has occurred,

   removal of the lye by washing out, adding neutralising agents or a combination thereof while the planar textile article (7', 7'') is fixed in shaping relationship, and

   final treatment of the planar textile article (7', 7'') according to subsequent use.
3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the transformation of the planar textile article (7', 7'') takes place by forge forming (8), roll forming, blow forming, vacuum forming or shrinking on.
4. Method according to any of claims 1 - 3, wherein an organic or inorganic lye is used, in particular a soda lye.
5. Method according to any of claims 1 - 4, wherein the planar textile article (7', 7'') is subjected to a neutralizing process with water and/or acid to remove the remaining lye.
6. Method according to any of claims 1 - 5, wherein the lye used is a soda lye with a concentration of about 30 Bé.
7. Method according to any of claims 1 - 6, wherein the lye used is a soda lye with a temperature of about 60°C.
8. Method according to any of claims 1 - 7, wherein the planar textile article (7', 7'') is removed from the mould for the final treatment.
9. Method according to any of claims 1 - 7, wherein the planar textile article (7', 7'') is not removed from the mould for the final treatment.
10. Planar transformed textile article, made according to any of the above claims 1 - 9, characterized in that it is formaldehyde-free.
11. Planar transformed textile article, made according to any of the above claims 1 - 9, characterized in that it is free from chemicals.

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