EP2869899A2 - Associations de principes actifs composées d'extrait d'écorce de magnolia et d'extrait de fruit d'anis et leur utilisation cosmétique et/ou dermatologique - Google Patents

Associations de principes actifs composées d'extrait d'écorce de magnolia et d'extrait de fruit d'anis et leur utilisation cosmétique et/ou dermatologique

Info

Publication number
EP2869899A2
EP2869899A2 EP13737552.3A EP13737552A EP2869899A2 EP 2869899 A2 EP2869899 A2 EP 2869899A2 EP 13737552 A EP13737552 A EP 13737552A EP 2869899 A2 EP2869899 A2 EP 2869899A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
extract
cosmetic
weight
magnolia bark
dermatological
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP13737552.3A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Corinna ILSEMANN
Sarah Hiddemann
Nadeshda Kurz
Joanna Ruhs
Ursula Holtzmann
Marc Winnefeld
Torsten Schläger
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Beiersdorf AG
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf AG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf AG filed Critical Beiersdorf AG
Publication of EP2869899A2 publication Critical patent/EP2869899A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/06—Preparations for care of the skin for countering cellulitis
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological preparations containing active ingredients for the care and protection of the skin, in particular the sensitive skin as well as especially in the foreground standing of intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors aged or aging skin and the use of such agents and combinations such active ingredients in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.
  • the aim of skin care is also to compensate for the daily loss of fat and water loss of the skin. This is especially important when the natural regeneration capacity is insufficient.
  • skin care products to protect against environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, and delay the aging of the skin.
  • the chronological skin aging is caused eg by endogenous, genetically determined factors.
  • aging causes, for example, the following structural damage and dysfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis”: a) dryness, roughness and formation of dryness wrinkles,
  • Exogenous factors such as UV light and chemical noxae can be cumulatively effective and e.g. accelerate or supplement endogenous aging processes.
  • exogenous factors occur, e.g. on the following structural damage and dysfunction in the skin that go beyond the extent and quality of the damage caused by chronological aging: d) visible vascular dilations (telangiectasias, cuperosis);
  • the present invention relates in particular to products for the care of naturally aged skin, as well as the phenomena listed under a), e) and g).
  • Products for the care of relaxed, especially aged, skin are known per se. They contain e.g. Retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or derivatives thereof) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. Their effect on the structural damage, however, is limited in scope. In addition, there are significant difficulties in product development in stabilizing the active ingredients sufficiently against oxidative degradation. In addition, the use of vitamin A acid-containing products often causes severe erythematous skin irritation. Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations.
  • Cellulite - a widespread phenomenon - occupies a central position.
  • the visible picture of cellulite is based on an increase in fat deposits in the subcutis (subcutaneous fatty tissue), a weakening of connective tissue and a reduction in the flow conditions in the blood and lymphatic channels.
  • the cause is thus a partial plant-related weakening of the connective tissue with simultaneous occurrence of enlarged fat cell chambers as a result of obesity, unbalanced Diet, lack of exercise.
  • the development of cellulite can also be attributed to an increased permeability of the capillary walls, which allows the penetration of water into the connective tissue.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to find ways that avoid the disadvantages of the prior art.
  • preparations according to the invention also stimulates collagen expression and lipid synthesis and thus positively influences the skin volume.
  • Magnolia (Magnolia) is a genus of flowering plants in the magnolia family (Magnoliaceae). This contains about 230 species that come from East Asia and America. According to the invention, the magnolia seed extract can in principle be taken from all species of the genus Magnolia, although Magnolia grandiflora, and in particular Magnolia officinalis, are preferred.
  • Magnolia bark is used in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) mainly for "stagnation of qi” (low energy), emotional stress, inflammation, inner restlessness and anxiety.
  • TCM Chinese medicine
  • the preparation of the extract used is carried out with the aid of supercritical C0 2 or ethanol or an ethanol / water mixture.
  • the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may be composed as usual and used for the treatment, care and cleansing of the skin and / or the hair and as a make-up product in decorative cosmetics. They preferably contain 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1-1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, on magnolia seed extract.
  • an aqueous fruit extract of anise (INCI: Pimpinella anis fruit extract), which is rich in inorganic minerals such as sodium and magnesium ions, especially potassium ions and 0.36% with butylene glycol and parabens 0, 14% is conserved and obtainable by enzymatic hydrolysis in water of solubilized aniseed fruit, wherein the ratio of raw material to extract is about 1: 2 and is available under the trade name Bioxilift® from SILAB, (Brive Cedex, France) ,
  • Aniseed extract (Bioxylift®, SILAB) is an aqueous fruit extract from anise.
  • the extract has an amber-like color and has a characteristic anise smell. It is rich in inorganic minerals such as sodium and magnesium ions, but especially in potassium ions.
  • the specific composition is:
  • the extract is unpreserved or preserved and storable. Its preparation is described in International Patent Application WO 02/102347.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention preferably contain from 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation of aniseed fruit extract ,
  • weight ratios of magnolia bark extract and aniseed extract are selected from the ranges 1: 20 to 1: 2, preferably from 1: 15 to 1: 4, more preferably from 1:10 to 1: 6.
  • preparations containing the active compound combinations according to the invention can be used with customary antioxidants.
  • the antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocaninic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and derivatives thereof (eg dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, Palmitoyl, oleyl,
  • the amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation ,
  • Particularly advantageous embodiments of the present invention consist in active ingredient combinations of magnolia bark extract, an aniseed extract and hyaluronic acid, and the use of combinations of magnolia bark extract, aniseed extract and hyaluronic acid for firming and / or strengthening the skin, especially in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.
  • Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan found in the connective tissue, vitreous humor, umbilical cord and synovial fluid of the joints. Hyaluronic acid is particularly abundant in early embryonic stages and contributes to cell migration by shielding the cells expressing their surface cells from each other, thus allowing their free mobility. Hyaluronic acid is involved in wound healing
  • Hyaluronic acid is a high molecular weight compound with molecular weights between 40,000 and several million.
  • the hyaluronic acid used has an average molar mass maximum between 40 kDa and 60 kDa and / or 1000 kDa and 2200 kDa. It is equally advantageous according to the invention if the hyaluronic acid is present in protonated form, as a salt, as a partially protonated salt, dissociated in solution or partially dissociated.
  • the concentration of hyaluronic acid, based on the total weight of the preparation is advantageously from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% and very particularly preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparation.
  • aniseed fruit extract such as a: b: c, where a, b and c independently of one another can represent rational numbers from 1 to 50, preferably from 1 to 30.
  • hyaluronic acid having an average molar mass maximum between 1000 kDa and 2200 kDa is a weight ratio of about 5: 1: 30 to 3: 1 to 26.
  • a weight ratio of about 8: 1: 45 to 3: 1: 26 is preferred.
  • the prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the active ingredient used according to the invention or with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient used according to the invention is carried out in the usual manner, in such a way that the active ingredient used according to the invention or the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations having an effective content of active ingredient used according to the invention is applied to the affected skin areas.
  • Emulsions according to the invention for the purposes of the present invention are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as they are commonly used for such a type of formulation.
  • Medicinal topical compositions according to the present invention usually contain one or more drugs in effective concentration.
  • drugs for the sake of simplicity, reference is made to the clear distinction between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (for example, Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Medicines Act).
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention may be composed as usual and used for the treatment of the skin and / or the hair in the sense of a dermatological treatment or a treatment in the sense of nourishing cosmetics. But they can also be used in make-up products in decorative cosmetics or in the cosmetic and dermatological cleaning products.
  • the solvents used can be: water or aqueous solutions, furthermore oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil, fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably Esters of fatty acids with low C-number alcohols, eg with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids of low C number or with fatty acids, but also alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether,
  • oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil, fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fatty substances, preferably Esters of fatty acids with low C-number alcohols, e
  • mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used, as may be an advantageous further constituent of alcohol in the case of alcoholic solvents.
  • Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention also e.g. to protect the skin from UV rays may be in various forms, such as e.g. Usually used for this type of preparations. So they can e.g. a solution, a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type emulsion, or a multiple emulsions, such as water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W), oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a gel, a hydrodispersion, a lamellar phase, a liquid isotropic solution phase, a micellar phase, a solid or dispersed one or more times hexagonal phase, a solid or dispersed single or multi-cubic phase, a lyotropic phase, a crystalline phase, a solid stick or even an aerosol.
  • W / O water-in-oil
  • O / W oil-in-water
  • the active compounds according to the invention can also be used with particular advantage in microemulsions, for example as described in German Offenlegungsschrift DE-195 9 079.
  • the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • ester oils can then be advantageously selected from the group
  • the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty acid triglycerides can be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and the like.
  • the oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, Ci2-i5-alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.
  • Ci2-i5-alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate mixtures of Ci2-i5-alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C12-15- benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.
  • the oil phase may further comprise a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other Olphasenkomponenten except the silicone oil or silicone oils.
  • cyclomethicone octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane
  • silicone oils are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).
  • mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are particularly advantageous.
  • the content of the oil phase is between 1 and 50 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations, preferably 2.5 to 30 wt .-%, particularly preferably 5 to 15 wt .-%.
  • the cosmetic and / or dermatological formulations according to the invention are applied to the skin in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics and dermatological agents.
  • Subcutaneous human preadipocytes isolated from the femoral region of different donors were commercially purchased from Zen-Bio Inc. (Research Triangle Park, NC).
  • the cells were cultured in basal medium (10% fetal calf serum (FCS), 2 mM L-glutamine, 100 U / mL penicillin and 100 ⁇ g / mL streptomycin, Cambrex, Verviers, Belgium) for 7 days at 37 ° C and 5%. C0 2 in the cell incubator. The cell culture medium was renewed on the first and fourth day after sowing.
  • basal medium 10% fetal calf serum (FCS), 2 mM L-glutamine, 100 U / mL penicillin and 100 ⁇ g / mL streptomycin, Cambrex, Verviers, Belgium
  • the cells were passaged in 96 well plates (1x10 4 cells per well). Twenty-four hours after passage into the 96 well plates, cells were treated with differentiation medium without indomethacin (basal medium containing 10% fetal calf serum (FCS), 2 mM L-glutamine, 100 U / mL penicillin, and 100 ⁇ g / mL streptomycin, 10 ⁇ g / mL Insulin, 1 ⁇ M dexamethasone and 500 ⁇ M isobutylmethylxanthine; Cambrex, Verviers, Belgium) are incubated with the following active ingredients and drug combinations: magnolia bark extract (10 ⁇ ), aniseed extract (“Bioxilift”) (0.5%), magnolia bark extract (10 ⁇ ) + aniseed extract ( "Bioxilift”) (0.5%).
  • FCS fetal calf serum
  • the "negative control” used was a cell population cultured without addition of active ingredient, and rosiglitazone (2.25 ⁇ ) was used as the "positive control”. Staining of triglyceride accumulation during differentiation was performed on day 7 post-induction
  • AdipoRed reagent (Cambrex, Verviers, Belgium) according to the manufacturer's instructions.
  • the fluorescence (ex 485 nm, em 572 nm) was finally determined with an Infinite M200 plate reader (Tecan, Crailsheim, Germany).
  • Cetearyl alcohol 1 00 2.50 2.00 3.00
  • Glyceryl stearate citrate 1 50 2.50 hydrogenated coconut glycerides 1, 00 2.00 2.00 1, 00 3.50
  • Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract 0.50 0.50 0.40 0.80 0.70

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)

Abstract

Associations de principes actifs composées d'extrait d'écorce de magnolia et d'extrait de fruit d'anis, préparations cosmétiques et/ou dermatologiques contenant ces associations, et leur utilisation pour le traitement cosmétique et/ou dermatologique et/ou la prophylaxie de la cellulite et/ou des symptômes de la gérodermie.
EP13737552.3A 2012-07-06 2013-06-13 Associations de principes actifs composées d'extrait d'écorce de magnolia et d'extrait de fruit d'anis et leur utilisation cosmétique et/ou dermatologique Withdrawn EP2869899A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102012211797.0A DE102012211797A1 (de) 2012-07-06 2012-07-06 Wirkstoffkombinationen aus Magnolienrindenextrakt und Anisfruchtextrakt und ihre kosmetische und/oder dermatologische Verwendung
PCT/EP2013/062234 WO2014005815A2 (fr) 2012-07-06 2013-06-13 Associations de principes actifs composées d'extrait d'écorce de magnolia et d'extrait de fruit d'anis et leur utilisation cosmétique et/ou dermatologique

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2869899A2 true EP2869899A2 (fr) 2015-05-13

Family

ID=48794046

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP13737552.3A Withdrawn EP2869899A2 (fr) 2012-07-06 2013-06-13 Associations de principes actifs composées d'extrait d'écorce de magnolia et d'extrait de fruit d'anis et leur utilisation cosmétique et/ou dermatologique

Country Status (3)

Country Link
EP (1) EP2869899A2 (fr)
DE (1) DE102012211797A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2014005815A2 (fr)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE102014211825A1 (de) * 2014-06-20 2015-12-24 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zubereitungen mit Kombinationen aus 4-n-Butylresorcin und Mangnolienrindenextrakt sowie einem oder mehreren Diolen
DE102017202557A1 (de) 2017-02-17 2018-08-23 Beiersdorf Ag Stabile Reinigungszubereitung

Family Cites Families (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1959079A1 (de) 1969-11-25 1971-07-08 Stavebni Strojirenstvi A Lehka Foerdervorrichtung fuer rohe Ziegeleierzeugnisse
FR2825925B1 (fr) 2001-06-19 2005-01-28 Silab Sa Procede de preparation d'un principe actif a partir de riz, principe actif obtenu et compositions adaptees
DE102007062691A1 (de) * 2007-12-21 2009-06-25 Beiersdorf Ag Wirkstoffkombinationen aus Anisfruchtextrakt und einem oder mehreren 2,3-Dibenzylbutyrolactonen
DE102008034265A1 (de) * 2008-07-22 2010-01-28 Beiersdorf Ag Wirkstoffkombination aus Anisfruchtextrakt und Hyaluronsäure
DE102010063895A1 (de) * 2010-12-22 2012-06-28 Beiersdorf Ag Siliziummikrokörper zur lokalen Körperbehandlung

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO2014005815A2 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
WO2014005815A3 (fr) 2014-03-27
DE102012211797A1 (de) 2014-01-09
WO2014005815A2 (fr) 2014-01-09

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