EP2750899A1 - Method for embedding decorative elements in a leather item, and resulting items - Google Patents

Method for embedding decorative elements in a leather item, and resulting items

Info

Publication number
EP2750899A1
EP2750899A1 EP12762348.6A EP12762348A EP2750899A1 EP 2750899 A1 EP2750899 A1 EP 2750899A1 EP 12762348 A EP12762348 A EP 12762348A EP 2750899 A1 EP2750899 A1 EP 2750899A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cavity
core
skin
piece
leather goods
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP12762348.6A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
François-Xavier RENOU
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Camo
Original Assignee
Camo
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Camo filed Critical Camo
Publication of EP2750899A1 publication Critical patent/EP2750899A1/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B44DECORATIVE ARTS
    • B44CPRODUCING DECORATIVE EFFECTS; MOSAICS; TARSIA WORK; PAPERHANGING
    • B44C1/00Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects
    • B44C1/26Inlaying with ornamental structures, e.g. niello work, tarsia work
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45CPURSES; LUGGAGE; HAND CARRIED BAGS
    • A45C13/00Details; Accessories
    • A45C13/08Decorative devices for handbags or purses
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C14SKINS; HIDES; PELTS; LEATHER
    • C14BMECHANICAL TREATMENT OR PROCESSING OF SKINS, HIDES OR LEATHER IN GENERAL; PELT-SHEARING MACHINES; INTESTINE-SPLITTING MACHINES
    • C14B1/00Manufacture of leather; Machines or devices therefor
    • C14B1/44Mechanical treatment of leather surfaces
    • C14B1/56Ornamenting, producing designs, embossing
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44CPERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45CPURSES; LUGGAGE; HAND CARRIED BAGS
    • A45C3/00Flexible luggage; Handbags
    • A45C3/001Flexible materials therefor

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for the encrustation of decorative elements, and in particular gems, more particularly gemstones, on pieces of leather goods, and in particular in the field of leather goods, and in particular gemstones, more particularly gemstones, on pieces of leather goods and in particular animal skins of the leather type, such as snakes, crocodiles or others.
  • Techniques are known to report or fix on skins, decorative elements and in particular shine, such as gems and precisely precious stones such as diamond, or materials such as zircon, silicon.
  • this type of product is made up of elements that are intrinsically relatively expensive (snake skins, precious stones, etc.).
  • the reliability and the maintenance, in perennial conditions of the decorative elements on the skins, is all the more necessary to avoid the losses and damages resulting from unsuccessful trials, or from inadequate or partially satisfactory techniques.
  • the present invention proposes to remedy this situation and aims on the one hand a method for the permanent fixing of decorative elements, such as gems and in particular stones or minerals or the like, on pieces of leather goods such as hides and skins. treated animals, making it possible to obtain an optimal decorative effect under conditions that do not affect the mechanical integrity of said skins, while leaving a great freedom on the aesthetic level to have the decorative elements in sizes, shapes and in any place, according to the wishes of the creator.
  • the invention relates to such a piece of leather goods provided with decorative elements, obtained by the method mentioned above.
  • the process for fixing decorative elements consisting of gem or mineral material, decorative effect and / or having shine effects or the like, on a piece of leather goods, such as a skin , in which a cavity is created in the thickness of said skin is characterized in that:
  • the cavity is made by removal of material, to make a recess or a cavity so as to not, or negligibly, affect the physical integrity of the skin,
  • a cavity is deposited in the cavity (on the skin) made of a powdery material such as flake and / or powder, mixed with a binder such as glue;
  • the core is secured to the cavity, in particular by the adhesive constituting the binder of the core.
  • the cavity is hollowed out in the piece of leather goods at a depth of between 10% and 80 of the thickness of the piece and preferably between 40 and 60% of said thickness.
  • Said core only partially fills the cavity and it has a height such that it does not exceed the upper face of the piece of leather goods.
  • the covering element (or covering) consists of a powder material or a mixture of different powder materials and / or flakes such as metal, in particular precious metal, mother-of-pearl, plastic , a mineral material, etc.
  • a transparent body with a gloss effect such as a gemstone or semi-precious or fine cut or a glass body.
  • the core and / or the covering member may be treated to be colored in the material.
  • the binder or glue used for the core is of the epoxy polymer type or a UV glue such as methacrylic acid, and whose viscosity is adjusted according to the piece of leather goods.
  • the core consists of mineral powder having a hardness of at least 7 on the Mohs scale, and preferably a hardness of 9 or 10 on this scale.
  • the invention also relates to a piece of leathercraft made from a skin and comprising decorative elements consisting of gem or mineral material, decorative effect and having shine effects or the like, characterized in that it comprises one or more cavities dug in the thickness of said skin, the cavity or cavities being made by removal of material, so as to not, or negligibly, affect the physical integrity of the skin, a core which is deposited in each cavity and a covering element which covers said core.
  • the piece of leather is obtained by the method above.
  • the part also comprises, on the covering element, a transparent body, in particular with a gloss effect, such as a fine, precious or semi-precious stone or a cut mineral material, for example glass, corundum , diamond, topaz, quartz.
  • a transparent body in particular with a gloss effect, such as a fine, precious or semi-precious stone or a cut mineral material, for example glass, corundum , diamond, topaz, quartz.
  • Figure 1 is a top view showing a piece of leather goods, in this case a skin, bare, without decorative elements reported.
  • Figures 2 to 4 show partial schematic views of a piece of leather goods, such as a skin, according to different steps of a first example of the method according to the invention, while Figures 5 to 7 show similar views relating to a second example (or variant) of the method according to the invention.
  • FIGS. 2A and 2B show partial schematic views of a skin, respectively in section along a vertical plane (in the thickness of the skin) and in a view from above, according to the first step of a first exemplary method of the invention.
  • Figures 3A and 3B are respective views in section and from above of the skin during the second step of the first method.
  • FIGS. 4A and 4B are sectional and top views of the skin in the last step of the first method.
  • FIGS. 5A and 5B are views respectively in section and from above of a piece of leather goods according to the first step of a variant of the method.
  • FIGS. 6A and 6B are views respectively in section and from above of the skin during the second step of said variant of the method.
  • FIGS. 7A and 7B are views respectively in section and from above of the skin during the third and last step of the variant of the method.
  • Figure 8 is a top view of the skin on which are reported the decorative elements according to the method of the invention of Figures 2 to 4.
  • Figure 9 is a variant of Figure 2A.
  • piece of leather goods aims and includes any piece of skin, leather, imitation leather, or the like, of animal origin, which is not fur or hair.
  • precious or semi-precious stones and gems used include any material or material of mineral origin or material of synthesis, intended to produce a decorative effect, with regard to reflections, the effect of multiple reflections, or other resulting from the interaction of their material with light.
  • the terms lower and upper refer to a position of normal use of the piece of leather goods.
  • Figure 1 shows a top view of snake skin python type, treated in a known manner, and having scales.
  • the method of the invention consists in fixing reliably and therefore perennially on the skin, and preferably in a centered manner on the scales, decorative elements (gems or other), to lead to the skin shown from above in FIG. .
  • This piece of skin thus produced can be used in a known manner for making various objects such as bags, purses, wallets, shoes, boots, etc.
  • the method is described below with reference to FIGS. 2 to 4, according to a first exemplary method of the invention.
  • Figure 2A shows a partial schematic section of a skin 1 having an upper face 2 facing outwards (visible by the user) and an opposite lower face 3.
  • a cavity 4 is made by removal of material, stamping or any known method making it possible to make a recess or cavity so as not to negligibly affect the physical integrity. skin.
  • the cavity 4 has been shown in circular section, but it may have any shape of section, it being understood that a regular shape and having at least one axis or plane of symmetry is preferred.
  • the depth of the cavity 4 is between 10% and 80% of the thickness of the skin, with a preference for a range between 40 and 60%.
  • Figure 2B shows from above the skin of Figure 2A.
  • an element or core 5 is deposited consisting of powder or flakes of mineral matter, precious stones or the like, having a hardness of at least 7 on the Mohs scale and preferably 9 or 10.
  • a binder such as glue, for example of the polymer resin type, such as mono- or bi-component epoxy.
  • the glue can be a so-called UV glue that polymerizes under ultraviolet radiation, for example an acid-based collar. methacrylic such as isobornyl acrylate.
  • the glue according to its viscosity and its hardness is adapted to the type of skin to be decorated, in particular according to its flexibility.
  • the glue can be transparent.
  • the added glue is of the same nature as that binding the powder and / or flakes of the element 5.
  • the element 5 once stiffened, forms a basic block or core, which preferably:
  • the core 5 occupies in volume, for example between 20% and 80% of the cavity and preferably between 40% and 70%.
  • a cover element 6 is deposited on the core 5, which fills most, if not totally, the empty space of the cavity 4. It can either protrude slightly relative to the plane of the upper surface 2 skin ( Figure 4A), or flush this same plane (at the opening plane of the cavity 4).
  • the element 6 covering the core consists of powder, fine particles or flakes of mineral material or metal, l iées by a neck, identical or different from that used for the core 5, such as for example the mono- or bi-component epoxy, or a UV adhesive, for example based on methacrylic acid such as isobornyl acrylate.
  • the covering element 6 is bonded to the core 5 by glue such as a one or two-component epoxy glue, or a UV glue for example based on methacrylic acid such as isobornyl acrylate.
  • glue such as a one or two-component epoxy glue, or a UV glue for example based on methacrylic acid such as isobornyl acrylate.
  • the element 6 is attached either in the relatively viscous state on the rigid core 5, or once stiffened itself and preformed so as to have a lower housing corresponding to the shape of the core 5.
  • the covering element 6 is advantageously transparent.
  • Figure 4B shows from above the skin and the decorative elements fixed, the core being seen in transparency.
  • FIGS. 5 to 7 show a variant of the method.
  • FIGS. 5A, 5B are similar to FIGS. 2A, 2B, 3A and 3B respectively, the only difference being the section of the cavity 4.
  • FIGS. 6A, 6B are similar to FIGS. 4A, 4B respectively, the only difference being the section of the cavity 4. According to this variant, it is preferred to cause the covering element 6 to protrude relative to the plane of the opening of the cavity 4.
  • the covering element 6 is raised so that it is flush with the plane of the opening of the cavity. Then, preferably, is placed and fixed on the surface of the covering member 6 opposite the outside, opposite the cavity, a transparent body 7 with a gloss effect, such as a fine, precious or semi-precious stone or a cut mineral material, for example glass, corundum, diamond, topaz, quartz
  • FIG. 7B shows from above the skin and the decorative elements fixed, the core 5 and the covering element 6 being seen in transparency through the body 7.
  • a reinforcement piece 8 such as another skin.
  • the piece extending at least to the right of the cavity.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Manufacturing & Machinery (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
  • Treatment And Processing Of Natural Fur Or Leather (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for attaching decorative elements (gems or inorganic material), intended for decorative purposes and having the effect of shininess or the like, onto a leather item, such as a pelt, characterised by the following steps: depositing, onto the pelt, a core consisting of an inorganic pulverulent or powder material mixed with an adhesive; covering said core with a material in the form of a powder or flakes and bonded by the adhesive. A cavity is formed in the body of said pelt, and a core is placed in the cavity, the depth of which is 10% to 80% of the thickness of the pelt body, and preferably 40% to 60% of the thickness of the pelt body. Said core only partially fills the cavity, and the height thereof is such that it does not project beyond the upper surface of the leather item.

Description

PROCEDE POUR L'INCRUSTATION D'ELEMENTS DECORATIFS SUR PIECES DE MAROQUINERIE ET PIECES AINSI OBTENUES La présente invention concerne un procédé pour l'incrustation d'éléments décoratifs, et notamment des gemmes, plus particulièrement des pierres précieuses, sur des pièces de maroquinerie et notamment des peaux d'animaux, du type cuir, telles que de serpents, crocodiles ou autres. On connaît des techniques visant à rapporter ou fixer sur des peaux, des éléments décoratifs et notamment à effet de brillance, tels que gemmes et précisément des pierres précieuses telles que diamant, ou des matériaux tels que zircon, silicium. Par exemple, il est connu d'imprimer des paillettes constituées de matières plastiques sur des peaux. Cette technique nécessite de faire appel à des dispositifs d'impression relativement complexes et donc coûteux, et en outre ne permet pas d'assurer une longévité satisfaisante au produit final ; les éléments rapportés par impression ne résistent pas à l'arrachement, ne serait-ce que du fait de l'usure ou du contact ou un arrachement accidentel par frottement avec un objet.  The present invention relates to a process for the encrustation of decorative elements, and in particular gems, more particularly gemstones, on pieces of leather goods, and in particular in the field of leather goods, and in particular gemstones, more particularly gemstones, on pieces of leather goods and in particular animal skins of the leather type, such as snakes, crocodiles or others. Techniques are known to report or fix on skins, decorative elements and in particular shine, such as gems and precisely precious stones such as diamond, or materials such as zircon, silicon. For example, it is known to print flakes made of plastics on skins. This technique requires the use of relatively complex printing devices and therefore expensive, and further does not ensure a satisfactory longevity to the final product; the elements reported by printing do not resist tearing, if only because of wear or contact or accidental tearing by friction with an object.
On a proposé par ailleurs de coller sur une peau des éléments en matériau minéral transparent, tel que du verre. Cependant, malgré le progrès réalisé dans le domaine des colles, les éléments en verre rapportés ne résistent pas à l'arrachement, en tout cas dans des conditions de longévité adéquates sur le plan commercial vis-à-vis des utilisateurs. On a en outre proposé, de manière connue, de fixer par des moyens mécaniques, tels que rivets ou vis ou autres, des éléments décoratifs. Si cette technique permet de remédier au problème d'arrachement et donc de maintien des éléments décoratifs sur la pièce de maroquinerie, cette dernière n'est pas sans défaut. Premièrement, les éléments rapportés font nécessairement saillie sur la peau de la maroquinerie, ce qui peut se révéler inesthétique. Deuxièmement, le fait d'utiliser des rivets ou vis oblige à percer de part en part la peau, ce qui affecte sa résistance, et également à percer l'élément décoratif rapporté, ce qui suppose que celui- ci soit d'une taille suffisante pour autoriser un perçage qui ne risque pas d'affecter sa résistance mécanique. It has also been proposed to stick on a skin elements made of transparent mineral material, such as glass. However, despite the progress made in the field of glues, the reported glass elements do not resist tearing, in any case in conditions of longevity adequate commercially vis-à-vis users. It has further been proposed, in known manner, to fix by mechanical means, such as rivets or screws or the like, decorative elements. If this technique makes it possible to remedy the problem of tearing and thus of maintaining the decorative elements on the piece of leather goods, the latter is not without defects. First, the reported items necessarily protrude on the skin of the leather goods, which can be unattractive. Secondly, the use of rivets or screws forces the skin to be penetrated through the skin, which affects its strength, and also to pierce the decorative element that is attached, which supposes that it is of sufficient size to allow drilling that does not affect its mechanical strength.
Les difficultés rencontrées par l'art antérieur sont d'autant plus difficiles à résoudre que chaque type de peau d'une part et chaque type d'élément décoratif rapporté d'autre part, présente ses propres caractéristiques de souplesse, de rigidité, fragilité, etc.... The difficulties encountered by the prior art are all the more difficult to solve as each type of skin on the one hand and each type of decorative element reported on the other, has its own characteristics of flexibility, rigidity, fragility, etc ....
Enfin, ce type de produit est constitué d'éléments ayant intrinsèquement un prix relativement élevé (peaux de serpents, pierre précieuses, etc.). La fiabilité et le maintien, dans des conditions pérennes des éléments décoratifs sur les peaux, est d'autant plus nécessaire pour éviter les pertes et endommagements résultant d'essais infructueux, ou de techniques inadéquates ou partiellement satisfaisantes. La présente invention se propose de remédier à cette situation et vise d'une part un procédé permettant la fixation de manière pérenne d'éléments décoratifs, tel que gemmes et notamment pierres ou minéraux ou similaire, sur des pièces de maroquinerie telles que des peaux d'animaux traitées, permettant d'obtenir un effet décoratif optimal dans des conditions n'affectant pas l'intégrité mécanique desdites peaux, tout en laissant une grande liberté sur le plan esthétique pour disposer les éléments décoratifs selon des tailles, formes et en des endroits quelconques, selon les souhaits du créateur. Par ailleurs, l'invention concerne une telle pièce de maroquinerie pourvue d'éléments décoratifs, obtenue par le procédé mentionné ci-dessus. Finally, this type of product is made up of elements that are intrinsically relatively expensive (snake skins, precious stones, etc.). The reliability and the maintenance, in perennial conditions of the decorative elements on the skins, is all the more necessary to avoid the losses and damages resulting from unsuccessful trials, or from inadequate or partially satisfactory techniques. The present invention proposes to remedy this situation and aims on the one hand a method for the permanent fixing of decorative elements, such as gems and in particular stones or minerals or the like, on pieces of leather goods such as hides and skins. treated animals, making it possible to obtain an optimal decorative effect under conditions that do not affect the mechanical integrity of said skins, while leaving a great freedom on the aesthetic level to have the decorative elements in sizes, shapes and in any place, according to the wishes of the creator. Furthermore, the invention relates to such a piece of leather goods provided with decorative elements, obtained by the method mentioned above.
A cette fin, selon l'invention, le procédé pour la fixation d'éléments décoratifs constitués de gemme ou matériau minéral, à effet décoratif et/ou présentant des effets de brillance ou similaire, sur une pièce de maroquinerie, telle qu'une peau, dans lequel on crée une cavité dans l'épaisseur de ladite peau est caractérisé en ce que : To this end, according to the invention, the process for fixing decorative elements consisting of gem or mineral material, decorative effect and / or having shine effects or the like, on a piece of leather goods, such as a skin , in which a cavity is created in the thickness of said skin is characterized in that:
- la cavité est réalisée par enlèvement de matière, pour réaliser un évidement ou une cavité de façon à ne pas, ou de man ière négligeable, affecter l'intégrité physique de la peau,  the cavity is made by removal of material, to make a recess or a cavity so as to not, or negligibly, affect the physical integrity of the skin,
- on dépose dans la cavité (sur la peau) un noyau constitué d'un matériau pulvérulent tel qu'en paillettes et/ou en poudre, mélangé à un liant tel que de la colle ;  - A cavity is deposited in the cavity (on the skin) made of a powdery material such as flake and / or powder, mixed with a binder such as glue;
- on recouvre ledit noyau par un élément recouvrant à base de poudre et/ou de paillettes et d'un liant tel que de la colle.  - Covering said core with a covering element based on powder and / or flakes and a binder such as glue.
Il sera creusé autant de cavités que d'éléments décoratifs à fixer. It will be dug as many cavities as decorative elements to fix.
Avantageusement, lors du dépôt du noyau dans la dite cavité, le noyau est rendu solidaire de la cavité, notamment par la colle constituant le liant du noyau. Advantageously, during the deposition of the core in said cavity, the core is secured to the cavity, in particular by the adhesive constituting the binder of the core.
De préférence, la cavité est creusée dans la pièce de maroquinerie selon une profondeur comprise entre 10 % et 80 de l'épaisseur de la pièce et de préférence entre 40 et 60 % de ladite épaisseur. Ledit noyau ne remplit que partiellement la cavité et il présente une hauteur telle qu'il ne dépasse pas de la face supérieure de la pièce de maroquinerie. Preferably, the cavity is hollowed out in the piece of leather goods at a depth of between 10% and 80 of the thickness of the piece and preferably between 40 and 60% of said thickness. Said core only partially fills the cavity and it has a height such that it does not exceed the upper face of the piece of leather goods.
L'élément recouvrant (ou de recouvrement) est constitué d'un matériau en poudre ou d'un mélange de différents matériaux en poudre et/ou paillettes tels que du métal, en particulier du métal précieux, de la nacre, de la matière plastique, une matière minérale, etc .. The covering element (or covering) consists of a powder material or a mixture of different powder materials and / or flakes such as metal, in particular precious metal, mother-of-pearl, plastic , a mineral material, etc.
L'élément recouvrant : The overlapping element:
- fait saill ie par rapport à la surface supérieure de la pièce de maroquinerie, d'une hauteur comprise entre 0,1 mm et 10 mm et de préférence entre 1 et 5 mm.  - Is raised relative to the upper surface of the leather piece, a height of between 0.1 mm and 10 mm and preferably between 1 and 5 mm.
- ou affleure sensiblement au niveau de la surface supérieure de la pièce de maroquinerie.  or is substantially flush with the upper surface of the piece of leather goods.
Selon une variante, on rapporte en outre un corps transparent à effet de brillance, telle qu'une pierre précieuse ou semi-précieuse ou fine taillée ou encore un corps en verre. According to a variant, there is also reported a transparent body with a gloss effect, such as a gemstone or semi-precious or fine cut or a glass body.
Le noyau et/ou l'élément recouvrant peuvent être traités de manière à être colorés dans la matière. Le liant ou la colle utilisée pour le noyau est du type polymère époxy ou une colle UV telle qu'à base d'acide méthacrylique, et dont la viscosité est ajustée en fonction de la pièce de maroquinerie. Le noyau est constitué de poudre minérale ayant une dureté d'au moins 7 sur l'échelle de Mohs, et de préférence d'une dureté de 9 ou 10 sur cette échelle. L'invention concerne également une pièce de maroquinerie confectionnée à partir d'une peau et comprenant des éléments décoratifs constitués de gemme ou matériau minéral, à effet décoratif et présentant des effets de brillance ou similaire, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comporte une ou plusieurs cavités creusées dans l'épaisseur de ladite peau, la ou les cavités étant réalisées par enlèvement de matière, de façon à ne pas, ou de manière négligeable, affecter l'intégrité physique de la peau, un noyau qui est déposé dans chaque cavité et un élément recouvrant qui recouvre ledit noyau. De préférence, la pièce de maroquinerie est obtenue par le procédé ci- dessus. The core and / or the covering member may be treated to be colored in the material. The binder or glue used for the core is of the epoxy polymer type or a UV glue such as methacrylic acid, and whose viscosity is adjusted according to the piece of leather goods. The core consists of mineral powder having a hardness of at least 7 on the Mohs scale, and preferably a hardness of 9 or 10 on this scale. The invention also relates to a piece of leathercraft made from a skin and comprising decorative elements consisting of gem or mineral material, decorative effect and having shine effects or the like, characterized in that it comprises one or more cavities dug in the thickness of said skin, the cavity or cavities being made by removal of material, so as to not, or negligibly, affect the physical integrity of the skin, a core which is deposited in each cavity and a covering element which covers said core. Preferably, the piece of leather is obtained by the method above.
Selon une variante, la pièce comporte en outre, sur l'élément recouvrant, un corps transparent en particulier à effet de brillance, telle qu'une pierre fine, précieuse ou semi-précieuse ou un matériau minéral taillé, par exemple du verre, corindon, diamant, topaze, quartz. According to a variant, the part also comprises, on the covering element, a transparent body, in particular with a gloss effect, such as a fine, precious or semi-precious stone or a cut mineral material, for example glass, corundum , diamond, topaz, quartz.
L'invention sera bien comprise à la lumière de la description qui suit, se rapportant à des exemples illustratifs mais non limitatifs, et basée sur les dessins annexés dans lesquels : The invention will be better understood in the light of the description which follows, referring to illustrative but nonlimiting examples, and based on the appended drawings in which:
La figure 1 est une vue de dessus montrant une pièce de maroquinerie, en l'occurrence une peau, nue, sans éléments décoratifs rapportés. De manière générale, les figures 2 à 4 montrent des vues schématiques partielles d'une pièce de maroquinerie, telle qu'une peau, selon différentes étapes d'un premier exemple de procédé selon l'invention, tandis que les figures 5 à 7 montrent des vues similaires relatives à un second exemple (ou variante) de procédé selon l'invention. Figure 1 is a top view showing a piece of leather goods, in this case a skin, bare, without decorative elements reported. In general, Figures 2 to 4 show partial schematic views of a piece of leather goods, such as a skin, according to different steps of a first example of the method according to the invention, while Figures 5 to 7 show similar views relating to a second example (or variant) of the method according to the invention.
Plus précisément : More precisely :
Les figures 2A et 2B montrent des vues schématiques partielles, d'une peau, respectivement en coupe selon un plan vertical (dans l'épaisseur de la peau) et en vue de dessus, selon la première étape d'un premier exemple de procédé de l'invention. FIGS. 2A and 2B show partial schematic views of a skin, respectively in section along a vertical plane (in the thickness of the skin) and in a view from above, according to the first step of a first exemplary method of the invention.
Les figures 3A et 3B sont des vues respectives en coupe et de dessus de la peau lors de la seconde étape du premier procédé. Figures 3A and 3B are respective views in section and from above of the skin during the second step of the first method.
Les figures 4A et 4B sont des vues en coupe et de dessus de la peau lors de la dernière étape du premier procédé. Les figures 5A et 5B sont des vues respectivement en coupe et de dessus d'une pièce de maroquinerie selon la première étape d'une variante du procédé. Figures 4A and 4B are sectional and top views of the skin in the last step of the first method. FIGS. 5A and 5B are views respectively in section and from above of a piece of leather goods according to the first step of a variant of the method.
Les figures 6A et 6B sont des vues respectivement en coupe et de dessus de la peau lors de la seconde étape de ladite variante du procédé. FIGS. 6A and 6B are views respectively in section and from above of the skin during the second step of said variant of the method.
Les figures 7A et 7B sont des vues respectivement en coupe et de dessus de la peau lors de la troisième et dernière étape de la variante du procédé. La figure 8 est une vue de dessus de la peau sur laquelle sont rapportées les éléments décoratifs selon le procédé de l'invention des figures 2 à 4. FIGS. 7A and 7B are views respectively in section and from above of the skin during the third and last step of the variant of the method. Figure 8 is a top view of the skin on which are reported the decorative elements according to the method of the invention of Figures 2 to 4.
La figure 9 est une variante de la figure 2A. Figure 9 is a variant of Figure 2A.
Dans la description qui suit, la notion de pièce de maroquinerie vise et englobe toute pièce de peau, cuir, simili cuir, ou similaire, d'origine animale, qui ne soit pas à fourrure ou à poils. De même, les termes pierres précieuses ou semi-précieuses et gemmes employés incluent tout matériau ou matière d'origine minérale ou en matériau de synthèse, destinés à produire un effet décoratif, eu égard aux reflets, à l'effet de réflexions multiples, ou autre résultant de l'interaction de leur matière avec la lumière. Par ailleurs, les termes inférieur et supérieur se réfèrent à une position d'utilisation normale de la pièce de maroquinerie. In the following description, the notion of piece of leather goods aims and includes any piece of skin, leather, imitation leather, or the like, of animal origin, which is not fur or hair. Likewise, the terms precious or semi-precious stones and gems used include any material or material of mineral origin or material of synthesis, intended to produce a decorative effect, with regard to reflections, the effect of multiple reflections, or other resulting from the interaction of their material with light. In addition, the terms lower and upper refer to a position of normal use of the piece of leather goods.
La figure 1 montre une vue de dessus de peau serpent de type python, traitée de manière connue, et présentant des écailles. Figure 1 shows a top view of snake skin python type, treated in a known manner, and having scales.
Le procédé de l'invention consiste à fixer de manière fiable et donc pérenne sur la peau, et de préférence de manière centrée sur les écailles, des éléments décoratifs (gemmes ou autres), pour aboutir à la peau montrée de dessus sur la figure 8. The method of the invention consists in fixing reliably and therefore perennially on the skin, and preferably in a centered manner on the scales, decorative elements (gems or other), to lead to the skin shown from above in FIG. .
Cette pièce de peau ainsi réalisée peut être utilisée de manière connue pour la confection d'objets divers tels que sac, porte-monnaie, portefeuille, chaussures, bottes, etc. Pour réaliser une telle peau, le procédé est décrit ci-après au regard des figures 2 à 4, selon un premier exemple de procédé de l'invention. This piece of skin thus produced can be used in a known manner for making various objects such as bags, purses, wallets, shoes, boots, etc. To produce such a skin, the method is described below with reference to FIGS. 2 to 4, according to a first exemplary method of the invention.
La figure 2A montre une coupe schématique partielle d'une peau 1 présentant une face supérieure 2 tournée vers l'extérieur (visible par l'utilisateur) et une face inférieure 3 opposée. Figure 2A shows a partial schematic section of a skin 1 having an upper face 2 facing outwards (visible by the user) and an opposite lower face 3.
Dans une partie de l'épaisseur de la peau, on réalise une cavité 4, par enlèvement de matière, estampage ou toute méthode connue permettant de réaliser un évidement ou cavité de façon à ne pas, ou de manière négligeable, affecter l'intégrité physique de la peau. In a part of the thickness of the skin, a cavity 4 is made by removal of material, stamping or any known method making it possible to make a recess or cavity so as not to negligibly affect the physical integrity. skin.
La cavité 4 a été représentée à section circulaire, mais elle peut présenter toute forme de section, étant entendu qu'une forme régulière et présentant au moins un axe ou un plan de symétrie est préférée. The cavity 4 has been shown in circular section, but it may have any shape of section, it being understood that a regular shape and having at least one axis or plane of symmetry is preferred.
La profondeur de la cavité 4 est comprise entre 10 % et 80 % de l'épaisseur de la peau, avec une préférence pour une plage entre 40 et 60 %. The depth of the cavity 4 is between 10% and 80% of the thickness of the skin, with a preference for a range between 40 and 60%.
La figure 2B montre de dessus la peau de la figure 2A. Figure 2B shows from above the skin of Figure 2A.
Selon la figure 3A, dans la cavité 4, on dépose un élément ou noyau 5 constitué de poudre ou paillettes de matière minérale, pierres précieuses ou autre, ayant une dureté d'au moins 7 sur l'échelle de Mohs et de préférence de 9 ou 10. A titre d'exemple : diamant, corindon, zircon. Les grains de poudre et/ou les paillettes sont mélangées à un liant tel que de la colle, par exemple du type résine polymère, telle que de l'époxy mono ou bi-composant. La colle peut être une colle dite UV qui polymérise sous le rayonnement ultraviolet, par exemple une col le à base d'acide méthacrylique tel que de l'acrylate d'isobornyle. La colle selon sa viscosité et sa dureté est adaptée au type de peau à décorer, en particulier selon sa souplesse. La colle peut être transparente. L'élément 5, à l'état relativement visqueux et résultant du mélange de la colle avec la poudre et/ou paillettes, est ensuite déposé dans la cavité 4, avec un ajout de colle éventuellement. Avantageusement, la colle ajoutée est de même nature que celle liant la poudre et/ou les paillettes de l'élément 5. According to FIG. 3A, in the cavity 4, an element or core 5 is deposited consisting of powder or flakes of mineral matter, precious stones or the like, having a hardness of at least 7 on the Mohs scale and preferably 9 or 10. For example: diamond, corundum, zircon. The grains of powder and / or the flakes are mixed with a binder such as glue, for example of the polymer resin type, such as mono- or bi-component epoxy. The glue can be a so-called UV glue that polymerizes under ultraviolet radiation, for example an acid-based collar. methacrylic such as isobornyl acrylate. The glue according to its viscosity and its hardness is adapted to the type of skin to be decorated, in particular according to its flexibility. The glue can be transparent. The element 5, in the relatively viscous state and resulting from the mixing of the glue with the powder and / or flakes, is then deposited in the cavity 4, with an addition of glue optionally. Advantageously, the added glue is of the same nature as that binding the powder and / or flakes of the element 5.
L'élément 5, une fois rigidifié, forme un bloc ou noyau de base, qui de préférence : The element 5, once stiffened, forms a basic block or core, which preferably:
- d'une part ne dépasse pas ou très peu du plan de la surface supérieure de la peau, c'est-à-dire du plan supérieur d'ouverture de la cavité 4, et  on the one hand does not exceed or very little of the plane of the upper surface of the skin, that is to say of the upper plane of opening of the cavity 4, and
- d'autre part ne remplit que partiellement la cavité, de manière à ménager un volume entre ce noyau 5 et la paroi de la cavité, ledit volume occupant de préférence la périphérie du noyau. Le noyau 5 occupe en volume, par exemple entre 20 % et 80 % de la cavité et de préférence entre 40 % et 70 %.  - On the other hand only partially fills the cavity, so as to provide a volume between the core 5 and the wall of the cavity, said volume preferably occupying the periphery of the core. The core 5 occupies in volume, for example between 20% and 80% of the cavity and preferably between 40% and 70%.
Selon la figure 4A, on dépose sur le noyau 5 un élément de recouvrement 6 qui remplit en grande partie, sinon totalement, l'espace resté vide de la cavité 4. Il peut soit faire légèrement saillie par rapport au plan de la surface supérieure 2 de la peau (figure 4A), soit affleurer ce même plan (au niveau du plan d'ouverture de la cavité 4). According to FIG. 4A, a cover element 6 is deposited on the core 5, which fills most, if not totally, the empty space of the cavity 4. It can either protrude slightly relative to the plane of the upper surface 2 skin (Figure 4A), or flush this same plane (at the opening plane of the cavity 4).
L'élément 6 recouvrant le noyau, est constitué de poudre, particules fines ou paillettes de matériau minéral ou en métal, l iées par une col le, identique ou différente de celle utilisée pour le noyau 5, telle que par exemple de l'époxy mono ou bi-composant, ou une colle UV, par exemple à base d'acide méthacrylique tel que de l'acrylate d'isobornyle. L'élément de recouvrement 6 est collé sur le noyau 5 par de la colle telle qu'une colle époxy mono ou bi-composant, ou une colle UV par exemple à base d'acide méthacrylique tel que de l'acrylate d'isobornyle. L'élément 6 est rapporté soit à l'état relativement visqueux sur le noyau 5 rigide, soit une fois rigidifié lui-même et préformé de manière à présenter un logement inférieur correspondant à la forme du noyau 5. The element 6 covering the core, consists of powder, fine particles or flakes of mineral material or metal, l iées by a neck, identical or different from that used for the core 5, such as for example the mono- or bi-component epoxy, or a UV adhesive, for example based on methacrylic acid such as isobornyl acrylate. The covering element 6 is bonded to the core 5 by glue such as a one or two-component epoxy glue, or a UV glue for example based on methacrylic acid such as isobornyl acrylate. The element 6 is attached either in the relatively viscous state on the rigid core 5, or once stiffened itself and preformed so as to have a lower housing corresponding to the shape of the core 5.
L'élément recouvrant 6 est avantageusement transparent. The covering element 6 is advantageously transparent.
La figure 4B montre de dessus la peau et les éléments décoratifs fixés, le noyau étant vue en transparence. Figure 4B shows from above the skin and the decorative elements fixed, the core being seen in transparency.
On a représenté sur les figures 5 à 7 une variante du procédé. FIGS. 5 to 7 show a variant of the method.
Les figures 5A, 5B, sont similaires aux figures respectivement 2A, 2B, 3A et 3B, seule étant différente la section de la cavité 4. FIGS. 5A, 5B are similar to FIGS. 2A, 2B, 3A and 3B respectively, the only difference being the section of the cavity 4.
Les figures 6A, 6B, sont similaires aux figures respectivement 4A, 4B, seule étant différente la section de la cavité 4. Selon cette variante, il est préféré de faire en sorte que l'élément recouvrant 6 fasse saillie par rapport au plan de l'ouverture de la cavité 4. FIGS. 6A, 6B are similar to FIGS. 4A, 4B respectively, the only difference being the section of the cavity 4. According to this variant, it is preferred to cause the covering element 6 to protrude relative to the plane of the opening of the cavity 4.
En partant de la peau comportant le noyau 5 et l'élément recouvrant 6, de la figure 6A, on arase l'élément recouvrant 6 de façon qu'il affleure au niveau du plan de l'ouverture de la cavité. Ensuite, de manière préférée, on met en place et on fixe, sur la surface de l'élément recouvrant 6 en regard de l'extérieur, à l'opposé de la cavité, un corps transparent 7 à effet de brillance, telle qu'une pierre fine, précieuse ou semi-précieuse ou un matériau minéral taillé, par exemple du verre, corindon, diamant, topaze, quartz Starting from the skin comprising the core 5 and the covering element 6, of FIG. 6A, the covering element 6 is raised so that it is flush with the plane of the opening of the cavity. Then, preferably, is placed and fixed on the surface of the covering member 6 opposite the outside, opposite the cavity, a transparent body 7 with a gloss effect, such as a fine, precious or semi-precious stone or a cut mineral material, for example glass, corundum, diamond, topaz, quartz
La figure 7B montre de dessus la peau et les éléments décoratifs fixés, le noyau 5 et l'élément recouvrant 6 étant vus en transparence au travers du corps 7. FIG. 7B shows from above the skin and the decorative elements fixed, the core 5 and the covering element 6 being seen in transparency through the body 7.
Selon une autre variante, en regard de la figure 9, on solidarise à la surface opposée à celle destinée à comprendre la cavité 4, c'est-à-dire contre la face inférieure 3, une pièce de renfort 8 telle qu'une autre peau. La pièce s'étendant au moins au droit de la cavité. Cette variante est applicable notamment à des peaux fragiles, peu épaisses, telles que de la peau de serpent. According to another variant, with reference to FIG. 9, there is secured to the surface opposite to that intended to comprise the cavity 4, that is to say against the lower face 3, a reinforcement piece 8 such as another skin. The piece extending at least to the right of the cavity. This variant is applicable in particular to fragile skin, not very thick, such as snakeskin.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
Procédé pour la fixation d'éléments décoratifs constitués de gemme ou matériau minéral, à effet décoratif et présentant des effets de brillance ou similaire, sur une pièce de maroquinerie, telle qu'une peau, dans lequel on crée une cavité (4) dans l'épaisseur de ladite peau, caractérisé en ce que : Method for fixing decorative elements made of gemstone or mineral material, with a decorative effect and having shine effects or the like, on a piece of leather goods, such as a skin, in which a cavity (4) is created in the thickness of said skin, characterized in that:
- la cavité est réalisée par enlèvement de matière pour réaliser un évidement ou une cavité (4) de façon à ne pas, ou de manière négligeable, affecter l'intégrité physique de la peau, the cavity is made by removal of material to make a recess or cavity (4) so as not to negligibly affect the physical integrity of the skin,
- on dépose dans la cavité un noyau (5) constitué d'un matériau pulvérulent tel qu'en poudre et/ou en paillettes mélangé à un liant tel que de la colle ; a core (5) consisting of a powdery material such as powder and / or flake mixed with a binder such as glue is deposited in the cavity;
- on recouvre ledit noyau par un élément recouvrant (6) à base de poudre et/ou de paillettes et d'un liant tel que de la colle.  - Covering said core by a covering element (6) based on powder and / or flakes and a binder such as glue.
Procédé selon la revendication 1 , caractérisé en ce que lors du dépôt du noyau (5) dans la dite cavité, le noyau est rendu solidaire de la cavité, notamment par la colle constituant le liant du noyau. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that during the deposition of the core (5) in said cavity, the core is secured to the cavity, in particular by the adhesive constituting the binder of the core.
Procédé selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que la cavité (4) est creusée dans la pièce de maroquinerie selon une profondeur comprise entre 10 % et 80 % de l'épaisseur de la pièce et de préférence entre 40 et 60 % de ladite épaisseur. Process according to Claim 2, characterized in that the cavity (4) is hollowed out in the leather goods part at a depth of between 10% and 80% of the thickness of the part and preferably between 40 and 60% of the said thickness. .
Procédé selon l'une des revendications 2 ou 3, caractérisé en ce que ledit noyau (5) ne remplit que partiellement la cavité (4) et en ce qu'il présente une hauteur telle qu'il ne dépasse pas de la face supérieure de la pièce de maroquinerie. Method according to one of claims 2 or 3, characterized in that said core (5) only partially fills the cavity (4) and in that it has a height such that it does not exceed the upper face of the piece of leather goods.
5. Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que l'élément recouvrant (6) est constitué d'un matériau en poudre ou d'un mélange de différents matériaux en poudre et/ou paillettes tels que du métal, en particulier du métal précieux, de la nacre, de la matière plastique, une matière minérale. 5. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the covering element (6) consists of a powder material or a mixture of different powder materials and / or flakes such as metal, in particular precious metal, mother-of-pearl, plastic, mineral matter.
6. Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que l'élément recouvrant (6) fait saillie par rapport à la surface supérieure de la pièce de maroquinerie, d'une hauteur comprise entre 0,1 mm et 10 mm et de préférence entre 1 et 5 mm. 6. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the covering element (6) protrudes from the upper surface of the piece of leather goods, a height of between 0.1 mm and 10 mm and preferably between 1 and 5 mm.
7. Procédé selon l'une des revendications 1 à 5, caractérisé en ce que l'élément recouvrant (6) affleure sensiblement au niveau de la surface supérieure de la pièce de maroquinerie. 7. Method according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the covering element (6) is substantially flush with the upper surface of the piece of leather goods.
8. Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que l'on rapporte en outre un corps transparent (7) à effet de brillance, telle qu'une pierre fine ou précieuse ou semi-précieuse taillée ou un corps en verre. 8. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that there is also reported a transparent body (7) with a gloss effect, such as a fine or precious stone or semi-precious cut or a glass body .
9. Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le liant ou la colle utilisée pour le noyau (5) est du type polymère époxy o u u n e co l l e UV te l l e q u ' à ba se d'acide méthacrylique, et dont la viscosité est ajustée en fonction de la pièce de maroquinerie. 9. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the binder or glue used for the core (5) is of the epoxy polymer type or a UV cell with methacrylic acid ba, and whose viscosity is adjusted according to the piece of leather goods.
10. Procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que le noyau (5) est constitué de poudre minérale ayant une dureté d'au moins 7 sur l'échelle de Mohs, et de préférence d'une dureté de 9 ou 10 sur cette échelle. 10. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the core (5) consists of mineral powder having a hardness of at least 7 on the Mohs scale, and preferably a hardness of 9 or 10 on this scale.
1 1 . Pièce de maroquinerie, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est obtenue par le procédé selon l'une des revendications précédentes. 1 1. Piece of leather goods, characterized in that it is obtained by the method according to one of the preceding claims.
12. Pièce de maroquinerie confectionnée à partir d'une peau et comprenant des éléments décoratifs constitués de gemme ou matériau minéral, à effet décoratif et présentant des effets de brillance ou similaire, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comporte : 12. Piece of leather goods made from a skin and comprising decorative elements consisting of gem or mineral material, decorative effect and having shine effects or the like, characterized in that it comprises:
- une ou plusieurs cavités (4) creusées dans l'épaisseur de ladite peau, la ou les cavités étant réalisée(s) par enlèvement de matière, de façon à ne pas, ou de manière négligeable, affecter l'intégrité physique de la peau,  one or more cavities (4) hollowed out in the thickness of said skin, the cavity (s) being made (s) by removal of material, so as not to negligibly affect the physical integrity of the skin; ,
- un noyau (5) qui est déposé dans la cavité et un élément (6) recouvrant ledit noyau.  a core (5) which is deposited in the cavity and an element (6) covering said core.
13. Pièce de maroquinerie selon l'une des revendications 1 1 ou 12, caractérisée en ce q u 'el l e com porte en outre , su r l'élément recouvrant (6), un corps (7) transparent notamment à effet de brillance, tel qu'une pierre fine, précieuse ou semi-précieuse ou un matériau minéral taillé, en particulier du verre, corindon, diamant, topaze, quartz. 13. Piece of leather goods according to one of claims 1 1 or 12, characterized in that the com bears moreover, su r covering element (6), a body (7) transparent in particular shine effect, such as a fine, precious or semi-precious stone or a cut mineral material, in particular glass, corundum, diamond, topaz, quartz.
EP12762348.6A 2011-09-01 2012-09-03 Method for embedding decorative elements in a leather item, and resulting items Withdrawn EP2750899A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1157743A FR2979579B1 (en) 2011-09-01 2011-09-01 METHOD FOR THE INCRUSTATION OF DECORATIVE ELEMENTS ON FOOTWEAR PARTS AND PIECES THUS OBTAINED
PCT/FR2012/051971 WO2013030515A1 (en) 2011-09-01 2012-09-03 Method for embedding decorative elements in a leather item, and resulting items

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EP2750899A1 true EP2750899A1 (en) 2014-07-09

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WO (1) WO2013030515A1 (en)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2017177460A1 (en) * 2016-04-15 2017-10-19 陈昭仁 Gem mounting method
IT201600122337A1 (en) * 2016-12-01 2018-06-01 Irene Cascini METHOD OF PROCESSING SKIN, LEATHER, VEGETABLE OR SYNTHETIC AND SIMILAR FABRICS FOR THE PRODUCTION OF LEATHER GOODS
IT201800021442A1 (en) * 2018-12-28 2020-06-28 Stefano Natussi Method for applying an accessory element to a leather material, and an article made using this method

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US1950257A (en) * 1932-05-16 1934-03-06 Hickok Mfg Co Inc Ornamental leather belt and other leather article
EP1418290A1 (en) * 2002-11-08 2004-05-12 Ivano Vagnoli Method for making leather tiles and tiles thus obtained
US7461676B2 (en) * 2005-05-11 2008-12-09 Shawnee Huie Handbag with interchangeable liner
AT8573U1 (en) * 2005-07-22 2006-10-15 Swarovski & Co METHOD FOR STICKING JEWELRY STONES
CH702836B1 (en) * 2008-06-23 2011-09-30 Omega Sa Decorative piece e.g. dial or case bottom, for time piece i.e. portable watch, has aesthetic elements integrated into support by inlaying, where aesthetic elements are made of partially amorphous or totally amorphous material
TR200904651A2 (en) * 2009-06-15 2010-08-23 Güzelev Züccaci̇ye Hedi̇yeli̇k Eşya Sanayi̇ Ve Ti̇caret Li̇mi̇ted Şi̇rketi̇ Processing of embellished material on leather.

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FR2979579A1 (en) 2013-03-08
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Effective date: 20181120