EP2665523A1 - Kosmetisches behandlungsverfahren durch auftragen einer beschichtung auf basis einer aerogelzusammensetzung von niedriger rohdichte - Google Patents

Kosmetisches behandlungsverfahren durch auftragen einer beschichtung auf basis einer aerogelzusammensetzung von niedriger rohdichte

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Publication number
EP2665523A1
EP2665523A1 EP12705349.4A EP12705349A EP2665523A1 EP 2665523 A1 EP2665523 A1 EP 2665523A1 EP 12705349 A EP12705349 A EP 12705349A EP 2665523 A1 EP2665523 A1 EP 2665523A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition
airgel
chosen
atom
zirconium
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP12705349.4A
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Henri Samain
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from FR1150468A external-priority patent/FR2970649B1/fr
Priority claimed from FR1150467A external-priority patent/FR2970648B1/fr
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP2665523A1 publication Critical patent/EP2665523A1/de
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/042—Gels
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

  • Cosmetic treatment process comprising the application of a coating based on a low bulk density airborne composition
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process comprising the formation of a coating on keratinous fibers based on an airgel composition of low bulk density.
  • the airgel composition is formed either in situ, that is to say directly on the keratinous fibers, or ex situ and applied once formed on the keratinous fibers.
  • airgel particles tend, when they are applied in powder form, that is to say without using a binder composition intended to bind the airgel particles together. as well as the support on which they must be applied, to take off and flutter around these supports.
  • a proposed solution is to impale the airgel particles, for example using a binder composition, to prevent them from flying.
  • This approach is unsatisfactory because, besides the fact that it makes airgel particles lose their lightness, it most often associates polymeric or fatty products. Moreover, most often the presence of solvent results in a penetration of solvent into the cells of the the airgel which limits the interest.
  • aerogels make it possible to obtain relatively thick but low weight coatings.
  • the coating does not interfere with the natural flexibility of the support on which it is applied as well as properties such as softness to the touch.
  • the Applicant has surprisingly discovered a cosmetic treatment process comprising the formation of a coating based on an airgel composition having a low bulk density and a notable elasticity on the keratinous fibers making it possible to overcome the disadvantages mentioned above.
  • the airgel composition is formed either in situ, ie directly on the keratinous fibers, or ex situ and applied once formed on the keratinous fibers.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process comprising the formation of a coating on keratin fibers, characterized in that it comprises:
  • At least one organic solvent selected from acetone, alcohols -C 4 alkanes CC 6 and mixtures thereof and
  • the molar ratio between the precursor compounds and the solvent is at most 1/20
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the formation of a coating on keratin fibers, characterized in that it comprises:
  • At least one organic solvent chosen from acetone, dC 4 alcohols, CC 6 alkanes, perfluorinated or non-perfluorinated CC 4 ethers, and mixtures thereof, and
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the formation of a coating on keratin fibers, characterized in that it comprises:
  • At least one organic solvent chosen from acetone, C 1 -C 4 alcohols, C 1 -C 6 alkanes, C 1 -C 4 ethers, perfluorinated or otherwise, and mixtures thereof, and
  • the molar ratio between the precursor compounds and the solvent is advantageously at most 1/20.
  • the present invention is particularly aimed at the hair.
  • Airgel precursor composition a composition in the form of a sol comprising at least one solvent and at least one precursor compound, capable of forming an airgel composition after removal of the solvent or solvents,
  • Airgel composition is a solid material of an organo-mineral or mineral nature comprising closed or open cells or pores of low apparent density. Typically, the cells have a size of 1 nm to 10 ⁇ ,
  • Precursor compounds compounds capable of undergoing a sol-gel transformation.
  • a soil is defined as a stable colloidal dispersion of solid particles within a liquid.
  • the solid particles chemically react with each other until a single three-dimensional entity is formed.
  • the sol-gel transition corresponds to the passage from the liquid state (the ground) to the infinitely viscous state (the gel).
  • the gel thus formed is in the form of a porous solid network in equilibrium with the liquid contained in its pores. After the sol-gel transition, the gel structure continues to evolve.
  • the process according to the invention mitigates the disadvantages of the prior art in that the airgel composition obtained has an extremely low bulk density, a particular porous structure, and high flexibility characteristics.
  • the binder composition may be either directly mixed with the airgel composition before application to the keratinous fibers, or pre- or post-applied to the keratinous fibers.
  • the binder composition may form on the hair a film of a thickness smaller than the particle size of the airgel composition, especially when the particles have a size greater than one micrometer.
  • the binder composition does not completely cover the particles of the airgel composition, these particles are retained only at their base, the airgel particles then protruding relative to the binder composition film.
  • Known coating processes using micron-sized particles have touch-feel problems due to the presence of these protruding particles.
  • the use of particles having a high flexibility or elasticity and a binder composition makes it possible to retain the particles on the hair without harming the touch.
  • the finger comes into contact with the flexible airgel composition particle, it feels less than with the micrometric particles of the prior art.
  • the binder composition may be an adhesive composition or an impasto composition.
  • the particular porous structure of the airgel makes it possible to prevent the drawbacks of the prior art related to the use of an impasto composition.
  • the polymeric or waxy compounds are less likely to migrate into the pores of the airgel composition than with the particles of the prior art and therefore do not alter the lightness properties of the airgel composition.
  • the process of the invention therefore makes it possible, according to the chosen cosmetic active agents, to form a coating which confers on the keratin fibers surface effects, such as color, gloss, reduction of defects, radiation protection effects, pollutants, water or moisture or to achieve biological effects on these keratin fibers.
  • the cosmetic treatment method furthermore has the characteristics described below taken alone or in combination.
  • the airgel composition is obtained from an airgel precursor composition having undergone a solvent extraction or removal step.
  • the elimination can be done by evaporation or displacement. This is called washing the airgel. Washing should not cause the product to lose its airgel structure. Thus, the washing used does not solubilize or little material that forms the airgel composition.
  • a preferred method of removing the solvent when the airgel composition is formed in situ on keratinous fibers is a heat removal with a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, an infrared dispenser, a heating iron, rollers or heating curlers preferably comprising an electric heating "heart” and a housing which maintains the heat of the hair wrapped around the curler or roller, or any other conventional heaters.
  • elimination heating is performed at a temperature from -30 ° C to 250 ⁇ and preferably from room temperature to 200 ° C, preferably from 50 0 to 200 ° C and more preferably 70 to 150 ° vs.
  • the removal of the solvent can be carried out by a drying step by supercritical removal of the solvent.
  • supercritical drying consists in compressing, in an autoclave, the gel formed by C0 2 and reaching conditions exceeding the supercritical state of C0 2 (Te ⁇ 516 K and Pc ⁇ 7.9 MPa ).
  • the solvent is removed by depressurization and washing with air or nitrogen under pressure (0.3 MPa for example).
  • the autoclave is cooled to complete the drying step. This procedure makes it possible to produce airgel compositions with an apparent density of around 0.2 g / cm 3 or less.
  • a liquefied gas that forms an emulsion which may or may not be stable in the liquid phase of preparation (microemulsified in particular).
  • the components are chosen accordingly and in particular, a liquefiable gas immiscible in the solvent, and surfactants are used.
  • the composition is maintained under pressure and then depressurized. At this moment, the liquefied gas forms very small bubbles. Liquefiable gases are preferred such that their boiling point is close to the temperature at which the depressurization operation is carried out.
  • the precursor compounds are selected so that the setting reaction takes place at the same time as the bubbles are formed.
  • precursor compound (s) when the precursor compound (s) contain an atom chosen from silicon or titanium, they comprise 2, preferably 3 or 4, hydroxy or alkoxy functions,
  • precursor compound (s) when the precursor compound (s) contain an atom chosen from aluminum and zirconium, they comprise 1 or 2 hydroxy or alkoxy functions,
  • the precursor compound (s) contain 0, 1 or 2 organic functions, preferably 0 or 1,
  • R is selected from alkyl, d- C 12 alkenyl, C 2 -C 2 or C 6 -C 2 such as methyl, ethyl, propyl or a phenyl group, preferably a methoxy or ethoxy group,
  • the precursor compounds may be alkoxysilanes or alkoxytitanium or alkoxyalu minates.
  • the precursor compounds are preferably silicon-based precursor compounds, such as the alkoxysilanes of formula Si (Ri) n (OR 2 ) 4 - n, where:
  • n is an integer of 0 to 3 or 1 to 3, preferably n is 0 or 1,
  • each R may correspond to alkyl C 2
  • alkoxysilane that is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds:
  • TMOS tetramethoxysilane
  • TEOS tetraethoxysilane
  • tetra-n-propoxysilane tetra-n-propoxysilane
  • methyltrimethoxysilane methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, isobutyltrimethoxysilane, isobutyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltrimethoxysilane, phenyltrimethoxysilane, phenyltriethoxysilane,
  • 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane 3-aminopropyltrimethoxysilane, 2-aminoethyl-3-aminopropyltrimethoxysilane, N- (n-butyl) -3-aminopropyltrimethoxysilane.
  • Tetraalkoxysilanes such as tetramethoxysilane (noted TMOS) and tetraethoxysilane (noted TEOS), methyltrialkoxysilanes such as trimethoxymethylsilane (MTMS), propyltriaikoxysilane, (trimethoxysilyl) propyl methacrylate (TMSPMA) or 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane are preferably used. (noted APTES).
  • the airgel composition may for example be obtained by reaction of trimethoxymethylsilane and methacrylate 3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl.
  • the precursor compounds present in the airgel precursor composition may be in free form (monomer) or in prepolymerized form (a certain number of monomers have reacted before application to the hair).
  • prepolymerized precursors mention may be made of those resulting from a sub-stoichiometric hydrolysis of TEOS under acid catalysis.
  • the advantage of using precursors in the form of a prepolymer makes it possible to reduce the duration of gelling since the hydrolysis and condensation reactions are already significantly advanced. It is therefore possible to use, for example, a Silbond® H-5 prehydrolyzed ethyl orthosilicate solution.
  • the precursor compounds and the solvent are present in the airgel precursor composition in a molar ratio between the precursor compounds and the solvent of at most 1/20,
  • the airgel precursor composition comprises at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the precursor compounds, of precursor compounds containing:
  • the airgel precursor composition may comprise at least one co-ingredient selected from powdered activated carbon.
  • co-ingredients that can react with the airgel composition.
  • free monomers or reactive groups grafted onto oligomers or polymers capable of reacting by condensation, for example solubilic monomers (alkoxysilane, alkoxytitanium, aluminum salts, etc.), polymers with silanol functional groups or crosslinking agents; such as diisocyanates, dithiols, a physical crosslinking such as that obtained by the action of a cationic salt (generally dicationic) with certain compounds, such as acrylic polymers or cellulosic gels.
  • solubilic monomers alkoxysilane, alkoxytitanium, aluminum salts, etc.
  • silanol functional groups or crosslinking agents such as diisocyanates, dithiols, a physical crosslinking such as that obtained by the action of a cationic salt (generally dicationic) with certain compounds, such as acrylic polymers or cellulosic gels.
  • a cationic salt generally dicationic
  • the airgel composition When the airgel composition is formed ex situ, it is in the form of particles in the form of grains, platelets or powder.
  • “Powder” is understood to mean individualized particles.
  • Platinum means flat particles.
  • “Grain” means a set of particles more or less agglomerated. Preferably, the particles have a size of at least 0.1 ⁇ , preferably at least 1 ⁇ and better still between 2 and 100 ⁇ . By “size” of particles is meant the average particle size. The particle size is evaluated by electron microscopic observation after the sample is treated with a few nanometer gold plasma.
  • the airgel composition comprises pores having a size between 1 nm and 10 ⁇ , preferably 50% of the pores are less than 40 nm and 90% of the pores are less than 100 nm, the term "size" of the pores means the average size pores.
  • the pore size is evaluated by electron microscopic observation, after treating the sample with a few nanometer gold plasma.
  • the mercury porosity method can be used. The measurements can be performed by a Carlo-Erba 2000 Porosimeter.
  • the distribution of the pore sizes can be obtained by the Washburn equations (EW Washburn, Proc Natl Acad Sci USA 7 (1921) 15), if mercury is included in the pores, or by the theory developed by Pirard et al. (called in English Buckling theory), when the mercury does not penetrate the network (R. Pirard, S. Blacher, F. Brouers, JP Pirard , J. Mater Res, 10 (1995) 21 and R. Pirard, A. Rigacci, JC Maréchal, D. Quenard, Br Chevalier, P. Achard, J.-P. Pirard, Polymer 44 (2003). 4881).
  • the airgel composition obtained according to the process of the invention can be obtained from an airgel precursor composition comprising:
  • the airgel composition having a bulk density of less than or equal to 0.35 g / cm 3 , preferably less than or equal to 0.25 g / cm 3 and better still less than or equal to 0.05 g / cm 3 .
  • the activated carbon powder represents at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total of the airgel composition or from 0.4% to 80%, preferably 2% at 60%, more preferably from 10% to 60% and even more preferably from 15% to 50% by weight of activated charcoal powder.
  • the addition of increasing amount of activated carbon powder makes it possible to reduce the bulk density of the airgel composition while also improving the flexibility properties.
  • the addition of the activated carbon powder as described in Example 1 below significantly improves the flexibility and lightness of the airgel composition.
  • the method of the invention involves a transfer member.
  • it further comprises:
  • the term "transfer member” means a support on which the airgel composition is produced with the objective of subsequently depositing said composition on the keratinous fibers by application of the coated transfer member, the transfer members being able to to be used according to the invention are, for example, a patch, a comb, a hairbrush, rollers.
  • the airgel composition may have a noticeable elasticity.
  • These properties can in particular be obtained by using an airgel precursor composition having a particular dilution.
  • the precursor compounds and the solvent are present in the airgel precursor composition in a molar ratio between the precursor compounds and the solvent of at most 1/20, preferably at most 1/30. High dilution provides the required flexibility properties
  • the elasticity of a material is evaluated according to different criteria. There is resistance to the applied force.
  • the modulus of elasticity expresses this resistance in the first effects of force.
  • the material is in this case little deformed.
  • the airgel according to the invention must have a moderate modulus of elasticity. It should be noted that the measurement of the modulus of elasticity requires techniques adapted to the porous or granular nature. Measurements may be flawed or underestimated, as reported by Moner-Girona et al. In the article Applied. Physics. A 74, 19-122 (2002). Thus, among the methods such as the measurement of ultrasound velocity through a material, the contact mode AFM, the Knoop indentation, the so-called microindentation method described below will be used.
  • a “Nanotest 550" apparatus from the British commercial company Micromaterials is used.
  • a triangular pyramidal indenter type “Berkovih” is used.
  • the measurements are made on a specimen a few millimeters thick.
  • P compression
  • the measurement is made at 0.05 mM / s during compression and decompression.
  • the compression is determined so as to create a penetration h of about 5 ⁇ .
  • a dozen cycles are performed at different places in the test tube, in order to draw an average.
  • the modulus of elasticity is evaluated thanks to the formula:
  • the airgel composition preferably has a recovery of at least 20%, preferably at least 40%, more preferably at least 50% and even more preferably at least 60%.
  • the modulus of elasticity is less than 500 MPa, preferably less than 100 MPa, better still less than 50 MPa and more preferably less than 10 MPa.
  • the airgel compositions are made from sol which then form gels which are two-phase solid-liquid systems consisting of a double interpenetrating network, continuous and three-dimensional, one solid and the other liquid.
  • the airgel compositions are obtained by extraction and substitution of the solvent phase with air, with or without very little densification of the solid network.
  • the extraction or drying phase thus consists in extracting the solvent contained in the pores of the gel while attempting to better preserve the structure and the integrity of the solid network formed during the gel step.
  • the airgel precursor composition under Soil form is extremely dilute, which results in a molar ratio between the precursor compounds and the solvent of at most 1/20, preferably at most 1/30.
  • the high dilution provides the required flexibility properties.
  • the airgel precursor composition is prepared by first mixing the MTMS, methanol, water in the presence of acid (oxalic acid), and then a base (ammonium hydroxide). After maturation, a supercritical drying operation is carried out, leading, at the moment of depressurization, to the production of a flexible airgel.
  • the production of a flexible airgel is favored by the use of a diluted composition.
  • the airgel composition may furthermore comprise an organic airgel which may be chosen for example from organic aerogels based on the chemistry of polyisocyanates such as those described in patent EP 0 710 262 or aerogels formed by the reaction of polyisocyanates and polyols.
  • Preferred organic aerogels are those obtained by reacting polyisocyanate and polyol monomers.
  • the polyisocyanates may be chosen from aliphatic, cycloaliphatic and aromatic polyisocyanates.
  • MDI diphenylmethane diisocyanate
  • pure MDI pure MDI
  • the polyol may be chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, trimethylolpropane, triethanolamine, pentaerythritol, sorbitol and sucrose. Therefore, the airgel can be obtained by reacting compounds comprising at least two isocyanate functional groups with optionally at least one polyol, the polyol being preferably a sucrose.
  • the organic airgel is obtained by reaction of precursors such as MDI and sucrose.
  • precursors such as MDI and sucrose.
  • precursors such as MDI and sucrose.
  • those described in the following article can be used: "Preparation of polyurethane-based aerogels and xerogels for thermal superinsulation", A. Rigacci, J.C. Maréchal, M. Repoux, M. Moreno and P. Achard; Journal of Non-Crystalline Solids, 350 (2004) 372-378.
  • a polyol sucrose for example
  • an MDI diisocyanate (4,4'-methylenebis (phenylisocyanate) for example)
  • a solvent which makes it possible to solubilize the two monomers and the polymer that will form
  • the solvent consists of a mixture of dimethylsulfoxide DMSO and ethyl acetate
  • a diamine catalyst for example octane of diazabicyclo [1.4.2 [2.2.2] DABCO
  • a drying step is then carried out by supercritical elimination of the solvent.
  • the airgel composition can be functionalized either by the presence of free reactive functions or by post-treatment.
  • the airgel precursor composition may be obtained either by directly introducing the soluble forms of the precursor compounds into the solvent phase, the solvent phase being constituted by the solvent or solvents, or by mixing previously prepared solutions.
  • the airgel precursor composition comprises at least one organic solvent selected from acetone, C 1 -C 4 alcohols, C 1 -C 6 alkanes and mixtures thereof.
  • the precursor composition also comprises water, the water being necessary for initiating the hydrolysis and condensation reactions making it possible to form the gel and then the airgel composition.
  • the C1-C6 alkanes may be chosen from butane such as isobutane or pentane such as isopentane.
  • two types of immiscible solvents are used, one of which has a relatively low boiling point relative to the other.
  • water and isopentane can be used. Since the two solvents are immiscible, a stable or unstable emulsion can be formed by means of agitation and / or stabilizers such as surfactants.
  • the composition may contain a catalyst. This may be directly added to the precursor mixture or added separately via pretreatment or post-application treatment of the pre-airgel composition.
  • the aerogel compositions obtained in the process of the invention are distinguished from the expanded spheres marketed for example under the name Expansel®, in that the airgel compositions consist of particles constellated with holes, whereas the porous spheres owe their low apparent density. the fact that they are formed of a shell (100 nm for example) and a hollow zone (40 ⁇ for example). In both cases, the apparent density is low which may also be for expanded spheres below 0.25 g / cm 3
  • the solid material is sufficiently deformable so that the airgel is flexible.
  • the solid material is strong enough that the airgel composition does not collapse by itself.
  • the airgel compositions are not confused with a simple foam obtained by expansion of a gas in a liquid.
  • the airgel compositions retain their porous form over time while the foams, such as those which are made by expansion of an emulsion, eventually collapse and lose their density.
  • the airgel compositions are the result of a chemical reaction (crosslinking in general).
  • airgel compositions having a bulk density of less than or equal to 0.35 g / cm 3 are suitable for carrying out the process of the invention, the preferred compositions being those which also have a modulus (E) of less than 0, 5 GPa.
  • the aerogels compositions conventionally obtained by sol-gel synthesis and alkaline catalysis do not have the required flexibility. They are obtained by expansion and then eventually undergo heating at high temperature (900 ⁇ for example). The measurement of the hardness of the material by nano-indentation shows that modules (E) are obtained, typically from 3.8 GPa to 1.2 GPa.
  • the airgel compositions used can be much more flexible.
  • the elasticity moduli E are typically less than 0.5 GPa and preferably less than 100 MPa.
  • the airgel compositions according to the invention When subjected to mechanical stress, contraction or extension, the airgel compositions according to the invention deform and recover a significant part of their initial shape when the mechanical stress is stopped. Their recovery is greater than 20%.
  • the airgel compositions of the invention may have little or no moisture absorption or absorb and pass moisture.
  • a known test consists in following the evolution of the weight of the materials in an atmosphere of 65% relative humidity (RH) at ordinary temperature.
  • the material does not absorb water.
  • the airgel has a water absorption rate in an atmosphere of 65% relative humidity at ordinary temperature of less than 5% by weight. This point is important so that the coating does not absorb perspiration (or exogenous water) and thus loses its property of lightness.
  • the airgel composition may be associated with a cosmetic composition.
  • the airgel composition represents at least 50%, preferably at least 80% and better 90% by volume relative to the total volume of the airgel composition and the cosmetic composition (combination of the two compositions).
  • airgel composition associated with a cosmetic composition means:
  • airgel composition associated with a cosmetic composition when the formation of the airgel composition is in situ, the expression "airgel composition associated with a cosmetic composition” is understood to mean:
  • the cosmetic composition may comprise at least one complementary ingredient.
  • the complementary ingredient is chosen to facilitate the application of the airgel composition and is preferably a solvent, characterized in that the airgel composition is not soluble therein, rheology agents such as thickeners.
  • Mention may also be made, as a complementary ingredient, of "holding" ingredients for improving the resistance of particles such as polymers (polyacrylic, polyacrylates, polyesters, polyamides, etc.), reactive or non-reactive, monomers or oligomers, waxes, oils, hot melt compounds. These ingredients are particularly reactive. They can be reactive on themselves and / or vis-à-vis the functions of the airgel composition. In the latter case, the silanol functions can be used to effect a reaction between the airgel composition and the holding ingredient.
  • the complementary ingredients can therefore be chosen from solvents, liquids, compounds in solution, dyes, pigments, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), perfumes, gases such as NO, biological actives and filters.
  • the complementary ingredients may be contained in the porous structure of the airgel composition.
  • the airgel composition may serve as a reservoir for a solvent, a liquid or a compound in solution.
  • the ingredient is thus conveyed. It may evaporate or leak to reach the hair or spread into the atmosphere.
  • the complementary ingredients may be contained in the porous structure of the airgel composition or in the airgel material (ie in the material forming the cell walls, or are grafted to the airgel composition material). Typically, the complementary ingredients can form up to 40% by volume of the airgel composition.
  • the airgel composition can thus be applied as a complementary ingredient, a dye or a filter.
  • quantities of product can be put without the ingredient coming into direct contact with the hair.
  • the cosmetic composition may also be chosen from an impasto composition or an adhesive composition comprising or not said complementary ingredients.
  • the impasto composition is chosen so as not to fundamentally modify the airgel composition which must keep its alveolar appearance. Part of the impasto composition may seep into the cells. This point is checked by looking at the material by microscopy. The impasto composition can soften the walls of the cells, they must be preserved.
  • the impasto composition contains, in addition to solvents, materials capable of giving, after drying, a soft, soft and / or tacky film such as natural or synthetic polymers, especially polysaccharides, modified or otherwise, such as gum guar, carrageenan gum, hyaluronic acid, proteins such as keratin hydrolysates for example, synthetic polymers such as acrylate or acrylic or methacrylate or methacrylic copolymers, polyesters, polyurethanes. Depending on the choice of these polymers, a soft, tacky or rigid or elastomeric film is obtained.
  • materials capable of giving, after drying, a soft, soft and / or tacky film such as natural or synthetic polymers, especially polysaccharides, modified or otherwise, such as gum guar, carrageenan gum, hyaluronic acid, proteins such as keratin hydrolysates for example, synthetic polymers such as acrylate or acrylic or methacrylate or methacrylic copolymers, polyesters,
  • the known coating processes using particles of micron size have touching problems due to the presence of these particles protruding from the impasto-coating film because the micrometric particles generally have a size larger than the thickness of the film deposited on the keratinous fibers.
  • the particles of the airgel composition are retained on the hair and when the finger comes into contact with the airgel composite particle, it is feels less dreaming than with the micrometric particles of the prior art.
  • solubilic monomers alkoxysilane, alkoxytitanium, aluminum salts, etc.
  • silanol-functional polymers or crosslinking agents such as diisocyanates, dithiols,
  • the adhesive composition may be a so-called "pressure sensitive” adhesive composition designated by the acronym PSA for "pressure sensitive adhesive” (PSA).
  • PSA pressure sensitive adhesive
  • These compositions generally comprise a film-forming compound and a solvent. When these compositions are applied to a support, a film is formed by evaporation or absorption of the solvent in the support (after a few minutes). This film has notable and persistent adhesion properties. These particular adhesion properties result when an object is brought into contact with the film, light pressure is sufficient to produce adhesion of the object to the surface of the film. This adhesion is characterized by the need to produce a force to detach the object from the surface.
  • the so-called "pressure-sensitive” adhesive composition may lose some or all of its adhesive properties in the presence of the airgel composition.
  • the so-called "pressure-sensitive” adhesive composition is therefore defined by its adhesive property in the absence of an airgel composition.
  • an adhesive composition that is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of a composition comprising at least one solvent preferably chosen from water and ethanol and at least one film-forming compound (active material) preferably chosen from polyesters. sulfonic.
  • the film-forming compound preferably represents 1 to 20%, more preferably 4% to 10% by weight of the adhesive composition.
  • the sulphonic polyesters that can be used in the process of the invention are marketed for example by Eastman. Among these polymers, preferred are those sold under the names AQ 1045 ®, 1350 ® AQ and AQ ® 14000. There may be mentioned as preferred commercial product, the product sold under the name AQ 1350 ® by Eastman Chemicals.
  • the combination of the airgel composition and the adhesive composition forms a cosmetic composition.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising in volume relative to the total volume of the cosmetic composition:
  • airgel composition having a bulk density of less than or equal to 0.35 g / cm 3 obtained from an airgel precursor composition comprising at least one precursor compound which contains :
  • the coating serves as a coating to protect the skin or hair, without weighing them down:
  • the treatment method of the invention is particularly suitable as a process for treating keratinous fibers to protect said keratinous fibers against cold or heat, radiation such as UV or IR, wind, pollutants, pollen and friction.
  • the coating method of the invention is particularly suitable as a process for treating keratin materials to obtain surface effects, such as color, gloss, reduction of defects, radiation protection effects, pollutants water or moisture or to achieve biological effects.
  • the cosmetic treatment process of the invention preferably comprises the formation of a coating with a thickness of between 10 nm and 100 ⁇ m.
  • the coating method of the invention is also suitable as a process for treating keratin materials to absorb body fluids.
  • a step of injection of pressurized gas by means of a device is carried out.
  • a device is a perforated surface (a grid) or a surface provided with a multitude of pressurized gas injection points. This application is performed with the application of pressure during the injection time so that the injected bubbles remain "locked" in the material without being able to disengage.
  • a compound is added in the gas-releasing formula such as a carbonate, said compound being applied before or after the step of applying the airgel precursor composition.
  • the carbonate, at the time of application of the precursor composition of airgel releases CO 2 .
  • a pressurized composition is applied which will degas and form bubbles.
  • it is a pressurized airgel precursor composition at or near supercritical conditions that is applied at the time of depressurization or just after depressurization.
  • a chamber adapted to the confinement of the hair This is typically a roll on which the hair is wrapped.
  • the heart of the roll is heated.
  • the core of the roller may comprise, for example, a heating resistor (energized and regulated) or a reservoir that may contain a heat transfer fluid.
  • a cylindrical housing usually rigid plastic.
  • This housing surrounds the hair wrapped on the roll.
  • This housing contains a slot through which the hair is introduced.
  • the slot can be equipped with a system of two lips, for example of rubber, ensuring a partial or total seal. The two lips can separate to facilitate the passage of hair during installation, then, tighten to seal.
  • the housing can be a thermal insulator.
  • Activated carbon powder (Norit-Darco KB) is added at different ratios as the soil gels. Activation of the carbon powder is carried out by steaming at ⁇ ⁇ ' ⁇ . The particles are aggregated and form objects of several microns. Supercritical extraction of the solvent is carried out. C0 2 is injected at 200 bar and then heated to
  • This method produces four airgel compositions. They have different levels of carbon particles, impacting their characteristics.
  • the first airgel composition does not contain carbon particles. It has a bulk density of 0.24, a module of 190 MPa and a low recovery of
  • the second airgel composition contains 2% by weight of carbon particles. It has a bulk density of 0.21, a modulus of 52 MPa and a recovery of 29%.
  • the third airgel composition contains 15% by weight of carbon particles. It has a bulk density of 0.17, a modulus of 28 MPa and a recovery of 45%.
  • the fourth airgel composition contains 50% by weight of carbon particles. It has a bulk density of 0.15, a modulus of 23 MPa and a recovery of 54%.
  • the four airgel composition powders obtained are introduced at 12% (by volume) in an adhesive composition PSA ® AQ 1350 (Eastman Chemicals) 5% by weight (active basis).
  • the formulas are then applied to the hair (1 g / g of hair).
  • the first formula gives a rough, powdery result. Subject to friction (comb for the hair), the coating resists badly in the time.
  • the synthesis is carried out by a sol-gel reaction in 2 steps, followed by drying under supercritical conditions.
  • Methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS, H 3 C-Si- (OCH 3 ) 3 ) is used which is solubilized in a methanol / water mixture and a first acid catalyst (oxalic acid). Then a second basic catalyst (ammonium hydroxide) is added dropwise into the water. After contact with a first catalyst (oxalic acid) for 30 minutes.
  • a first acid catalyst oxalic acid
  • a second basic catalyst ammonium hydroxide
  • the airgel is obtained by supercritical drying.
  • the gel is placed in a 600 ml autoclave by adding 100 ml of methanol. By heating to 538 K and maintaining the pressure at 1 MPa, the gaseous methanol is evacuated. After cooling and removal of the last methanol vapor, the airgel is recovered.
  • An airgel is obtained whose apparent density is 0.05 g / cm 3 . Its recovery is greater than 80%. Its modulus of elasticity is less than 1 MPa.
  • the powder obtained corresponding to the airgel composition of the invention can be applied directly to the keratinous fibers.
  • the powder can be applied to hair previously coated with a PSA adhesive (AQ 1350® for example).
  • the powder may be mixed with a cosmetic composition comprising a complementary ingredient for improving the hold on the skin or the hair such as a polymer in solution or a gel or a cream.
  • a cosmetic composition comprising a complementary ingredient for improving the hold on the skin or the hair such as a polymer in solution or a gel or a cream.
  • the resulting airgel precursor composition is applied to dry hair and the hair is separated with a comb.
  • the hair is heated to ⁇ ' ⁇ with a current of air.
  • the hair thus coated with a nascent airgel continue to evolve to give in the hours that follow a coating giving a styling effect and texture.
  • the two preparations are mixed together and thus the airgel precursor composition is obtained. Let's rest. It is applied to dry hair and the hair is separated with a comb.
  • the hair is heated to ⁇ ' ⁇ with a current of air.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
EP12705349.4A 2011-01-20 2012-01-20 Kosmetisches behandlungsverfahren durch auftragen einer beschichtung auf basis einer aerogelzusammensetzung von niedriger rohdichte Withdrawn EP2665523A1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1150468A FR2970649B1 (fr) 2011-01-20 2011-01-20 Procede de traitement cosmetique comprenant la formation in-situ d'une composition aerogel.
FR1150467A FR2970648B1 (fr) 2011-01-20 2011-01-20 Procede de traitement cosmetique comprenant l'application d'un revetement a base d'une composition aerogel souple.
US201161448315P 2011-03-02 2011-03-02
US201161448313P 2011-03-02 2011-03-02
PCT/FR2012/050128 WO2012098339A1 (fr) 2011-01-20 2012-01-20 Procede de traitement cosmetique comprenant l'application d'un revetement a base d'une composition aerogel de faible masse volumique apparente

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EP2665523A1 true EP2665523A1 (de) 2013-11-27

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EP12705349.4A Withdrawn EP2665523A1 (de) 2011-01-20 2012-01-20 Kosmetisches behandlungsverfahren durch auftragen einer beschichtung auf basis einer aerogelzusammensetzung von niedriger rohdichte

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US (1) US20140010852A1 (de)
EP (1) EP2665523A1 (de)
JP (1) JP2014502991A (de)
CN (1) CN103402583A (de)
BR (1) BR112013018595A2 (de)
WO (1) WO2012098339A1 (de)

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19648798A1 (de) * 1996-11-26 1998-06-04 Hoechst Ag Verfahren zur Herstellung von organisch modifizierten Aerogelen durch Oberflächenmodifikation des wäßrigen Gels (ohne vorherigen Lösungsmitteltausch) und anschließender Trocknung

Family Cites Families (9)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4035267A (en) * 1976-08-30 1977-07-12 American Cyanamid Company Dry shampoo using chitin powder
NZ268365A (en) 1993-07-22 1997-01-29 Ici Plc Polyisocyanate based aerogel; preparation by reacting polyisocyanate and trimerisation catalyst
FR2719218B1 (fr) * 1994-04-28 1996-07-05 Oreal Utilisation d'une suspension colloïdale à base de charges minérales comme composition cosmétique permettant de former un film sur les cheveux, la peau et/ou les ongles.
IL120022A (en) * 1997-01-16 2003-02-12 Yissum Res Dev Co Sunscreens for protection from sun radiation
US6352699B1 (en) * 1997-04-04 2002-03-05 L'oreal Cosmetic or dermatological composition forming, on a keratin substrate, a film in cross-linked hybrid material
WO2002055588A1 (fr) * 2001-01-10 2002-07-18 Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. Compose de silicone modifie inodore, preparation cosmetique renfermant ce compose et procede pour purifier un compose silicone modifie presentant un polymere ramifie a groupe hydrophile
DE10214226B4 (de) * 2001-10-11 2009-07-16 Arlt, Wolfgang Wirkstoffträger, Verfahren zu dessen Herstellung und Verwendung
FR2836633B1 (fr) * 2002-03-04 2006-08-11 Oreal Utilisation de composes hybrides comme agents anti-polluants et anti-adherents, composition pour film souples
GB0916031D0 (en) * 2009-09-14 2009-10-28 Univ Nottingham Cellulose nanoparticle aerogels,hydrogels and organogels

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE19648798A1 (de) * 1996-11-26 1998-06-04 Hoechst Ag Verfahren zur Herstellung von organisch modifizierten Aerogelen durch Oberflächenmodifikation des wäßrigen Gels (ohne vorherigen Lösungsmitteltausch) und anschließender Trocknung

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CN103402583A (zh) 2013-11-20
US20140010852A1 (en) 2014-01-09
BR112013018595A2 (pt) 2016-08-09
WO2012098339A1 (fr) 2012-07-26

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