EP2642970A1

EP2642970A1 - Method for shaving the skin using amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxanes; soap-based compositions comprising them

Info

Publication number: EP2642970A1
Application number: EP11781562.1A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Renaud Souchay; Lionel Aubert
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2010-11-26
Filing date: 2011-11-14
Publication date: 2013-10-02
Also published as: FR2967909B1; WO2012069331A1; FR2967909A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for shaving the skin, in particular the skin of the face of men, employing a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one amphiphilic amino- polyorganosiloxane and more particularly one polyglycolic and/or polyoxyalkylenated amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane. The present invention also relates to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least one amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane and more particularly one polyglycolic and/or polyoxyalkylenated amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane; b) at least one C₆-C₂₀ fatty acid salt or a mixture of C₆-C₂₀ fatty acid salts. The present invention also relates to a method for cleaning the skin, which consists of applying, to the surface, a composition as defined above, followed by rinsing with water.

Description

METHOD FOR SHAVING THE SKIN USING AMPHIPHILIC AMINOPOLYORGANOSILOXANES; SOAP-BASED COMPOSITIONS

COMPRISING THEM The present invention relates to a method for shaving the skin, in particular the skin of the face of men, employing a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one amphiphilic amino- polyorganosiloxane and more particularly one polyglycolic and/or polyoxyalkylenated amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane of formula (I) or (II) which will be defined below.

The present invention also relates to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

a) at least one polyglycolic and/or polyoxyalkylenated amphiphilic aminopolyorgano^¬ siloxane of formula (I) or (II) which will be defined below;

b) at least one C6-C20 fatty acid salt or a mixture of

C6-C20 fatty acid salts which is (are) neutralized by an organic or inorganic base.

The present invention also relates to a method for cleaning human keratinous substances and in particular the skin, which consists in applying, to the surface, a composition as defined above, followed by rinsing with water . The beard of an adult man comprises, on average, from 8000 to 25 000 hairs. Shaving has to be daily, in particular in the morning, since the beard grows by approximately 0.4 mm in 24 hours. If the wastes from a shaving action are analyzed, 50% of hairs and 50% of dead cells are observed. The passage of the blade thus has two simultaneous actions: cutting the hair and exfoliating the skin surface. In point of fact, shaving is traumatic for the skin and there exists a need to have available cosmetic compositions capable of preparing the skin for shaving and thus of facilitating the latter.

The present invention is targeted specifically at offering a shaving method which makes it possible to cause the hair to swell, to reduce its stiffness, in order to facilitate the passage of the blade, and to reduce the bending forces on the hair during shaving.

Provision has already been made, in Patent EP 0 376 820 Bl, to use polyorganosiloxanes comprising an acyloxyalkyl functional group in order to alleviate the "burn" of the razor by their lubricating power, to render the skin softer and to confer a degree of comfort on the compositions in which they are present. However, the deposition of the product on the skin and the swelling of the hair which are obtained are not fully satisfactory.

Aminopolyorganosiloxanes comprising a free amino functional group are known in the field of hair washing and/or conditioning compositions, in particular in Patent Applications US2003/0224954 and EP 1 531 783 and Patent EP 1 438 947. Aminopolyorganosiloxanes of this type are unsuitable for shaving formulations generally comprising soaps of fatty acids owing to the fact that they have a tendency to bring about yellowing of the composition during storage.

Amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxanes are known in Applications DE102004137951 and WO02/092666 as softening agent for textile materials and in Application WO2008/011347 as hair conditioning agent.

The Applicant Company has discovered, surprisingly, that, by using amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxanes in a composition for shaving the skin, first a better deposition on the skin and an equivalent swelling of the hair, making it possible to facilitate the shaving during the passage of the blade of the razor, are obtained. Secondly, the Applicant Company has found that these same aminopolyorganosiloxanes , introduced into a shaving composition, make it possible to obtain better stability on storage: a substantial reduction in, indeed even a disappearance of, the phenomenon of yellowing.

This discovery forms the basis of the present invention . The present invention relates to a method for shaving the skin, in particular the skin of the face of men, comprising at least the following stages:

a) a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one amphiphilic amino- polyorganosiloxane and more particularly an aminopolyorganosiloxane of formula (I) or (II) is applied to the region of skin to be shaved;

b) the hairs are shaved using a razor. Preferably, the region of skin thus treated is massaged for a time generally ranging from 20 seconds to 3 minutes, then the hairs are shaved and rinsing with water is carried out after the shaving stage. Another sub ect-matter of the present invention is the use of at least one amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane and more particularly an aminopolyorganosiloxane of formula (I) or (II) in a cosmetic composition with the aim of improving the stability and/or the deposition of the composition on the skin.

The present invention also relates to a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least one amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane of formula (I) or (II);

b) at least one C6-C20 fatty acid salt or a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acid salts which is (are) neutralized by an organic or inorganic base.

The Applicant Company has also discovered that the same soap-based compositions can also constitute products for cleaning keratinous substances and more particularly the skin (body, face, eyes) having good detergent properties and good cosmetic properties (softness to the touch) which are thoroughly removed on rinsing and which are stable on storage. The present invention also relates to a method for cleaning the skin, which consists in applying, to the surface of the skin, a composition as defined above, followed by rinsing with water. The term "aminopolyorganosiloxane" is understood to mean any polyorganosiloxane comprising a polyorgano- siloxane main chain and at least one group comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine which can be grafted to the main silicone chain or be located on one or both ends of the said chain.

The term "amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane" is understood to mean any aminopolyorganosiloxane comprising at least one hydrophobic portion and at least one hydrophilic portion.

In particular, the hydrophobic portion can comprise the silicone main chain and optionally at least one fatty hydrocarbon chain (comprising at least 8 carbon atoms) which can be located on at least one group grafted to the silicone main chain or located on one or both ends of the said chain; it also being possible for the said group to comprise at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine.

In particular, the hydrophilic portion can be located on at least one group grafted to the silicone main chain or located on one or both ends of the said chain; it also being possible for the said group to comprise at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine.

In particular, the hydrophobic portion composed of a fatty hydrocarbon chain and the hydrophilic part can be present on the same group grafted to the silicone main chain or located on one or both ends of the said chain; it also being possible for the said group to comprise at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine.

The term "cosmetically acceptable medium" is understood to mean compatible with the skin and/or its superficial body growths, which exhibits a pleasant colour, odour and feel and which does not result in unacceptable discomfort (smarting, tightness, red blotches) liable to dissuade the consumer from using this composition.

AMINO POLYORGANOS I LOXANE S Preferably, the hydrophilic groups of the amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxanes of the invention are chosen from (i) polyols and in particular (i) polyglycols and (ii) polyoxyalkylenated groups. More particularly, the amphiphilic aminopolyorgano^¬ siloxanes in accordance with the invention are chosen from those described in Patent Applications DE102004137951 and WO02/092666 comprising amino groups substituted in part by at least one radical of formula:

T-CH₂—CHOH-CH2- (a) in which T denotes a residue of a nonionic surfactant of formula:

in which R¹ denotes a C8-C2 hydrocarbon radical, X denotes a C₂-C alkylene and q is an integer from 4 to 50 (preferably from 4 to 30 and more preferably from 4 to 20); with at least 50% of the X groups denoting ethylene (preferably 80% and more preferably 100% of the X groups denoting ethylene) and the said substituted amino groups being connected to the silicon atoms of the silicone backbone by alkylene bridges or mono- or oligo ( alkyleneamino ) alkylene bridges; in a mean ratio of 1.5 radicals of formula ( a) per amino- alkyl, aminomono ( alkyleneamino ) alkyl or amino- oligo ( alkyleneamino ) alkyl group bonded to a silicon atom.

The R¹ radicals are preferably C9-C18 and more preferably C11-C16 aliphatic or alkylaromatic radicals.

When R¹ denotes an aliphatic group, it is preferably saturated. In this case, R¹0- denotes the residue of a preferably Cg-Cis and more preferably Cn-Cis saturated primary aliphatic alcohol.

When R¹ denotes an alkylaromatic group, R¹0- preferably denotes a mono- or dialkylphenol residue, for example a di ( t-butyl ) phenol , p-isooctylphenol or p-nonylphenol residue .

The surfactant TH corresponding to the formula ( β ) preferably has an HLB of greater than or equal to 7, more preferably from 7 to 17, more particularly still from 8 to 16.5 and better still from 9 to 16.

These amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxanes have a weight-average molecular weight between 1500 and 300 000 g/mol, preferably from 1500 to 150 000 g/mol. More particularly, the amphiphilic aminopolyorgano- siloxanes in accordance with the invention correspond to the following formula (I) :

(I)

in which:

Ri , R2 and R3, which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1- C20 alkyl and preferably simultaneously denote the -CH₃ group;

R , which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1- C20 alkyl group, a hydroxyl group or a linear or branched C1- C20 alkoxy group and preferably OH or linear C1-C4 alkoxy and more particularly OH or methoxy;

R ' and R", which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C5 alkylene;

the A radicals, which are identical or different, denote hydroxyl or an

-0- R 4i— 0 h-R

q 5 group;

in which:

R denotes a linear or branched C2-C alkylene radical and preferably -CH₂CH₂- or -CH₂-CH₂-CH₂- or the

CH₂— CH— CH₂

CH₃ group;

R5 denotes a linear or branched C9-C18 alkyl radical and more particularly a linear Cn-Cis alkyl;

n and m vary in such a way that the weight-average molecular weight of the polyorganopolysiloxane is between 1500 and 300 000 and preferably from 1500 to 150 000;

q varies from 4 to 50, preferably from 4 to 30 and more particularly from 4 to 20.

Use will more particularly be made of an aminopoly- organosiloxane corresponding to the following structure (b) :

in which:

R denotes OH or a methoxy radical

the A radicals simultaneously a group of formula :

—o- -CH₂CH₂0 - -C« 1,3H' '27 q = 9 and n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight is 130 000 g/mol, such as the product under the INCI name: Trideceth-9 PG-Amodimethicone, and sold under the trade name "Silcare SEA®" by Clariant.

The amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxanes in accordance with the invention can also be chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (II) :

in which:

R'", which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched C8-C20 alkyl group and more particularly a C13-C15 alkyl radical;

R' and R", which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C5 alkylene;

n varies from 25 to 100 and preferably from 50 to 80; m varies from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 5.

Preferably,

R' denotes the -CH₂-CH₂-CH₂- group or the CH₂— CH— CH₂

CH₃

group,

R" denotes -CH₂-CH₂- . Use will more particularly be made of an amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane corresponding to the following structure (a) :

where r has a value from 12 to 14, n varies from 50 to 70 and m varies from 1 to 3, such as the product sold under the trade name "DC 8500 ®" by Dow Corning.

These amphiphilic aminosilicones are known and are described in Patent Applications WO03/066007 and WO2008/011347.

The aminopolyorganosiloxanes in accordance with the invention are preferably present in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

POLYORGANOS I LOXANE S COMPRISING AN ACYLOXYALKYL

FUNCTIONAL GROUP

According to a particularly preferred form, use will additionally be made, in the shaving method, of a polyorganosiloxane comprising an acyloxyalkyl functional group chosen from:

(i) linear compounds corresponding to the following formula ( I ) :

in which:

the R.6 radicals, which are identical or different, are chosen from methyl, phenyl, OCOR₉ or hydroxyl, it being possible for just one of the R.6 radicals to be OH;

the R₇ radicals, which are identical or different, are chosen from phenyl or methyl radicals, 60 mol% of the combined R6 and R7 radicals being methyl;

Rs is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon alkylene link comprising from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and more particularly a -(C¾) 3- trimethylene and 2-methyltrimethylene

CH₂ -C γH_Π— CH,

CH,

chain;

R₉ is a C₈-C2o alkyl or alkenyl radical;

v is a number between 0 and 20;

t is a number between 1 and 20;

u is equal to 0 or is equal to a number less than 0.5t, the sum t+u being between 1 and 20; ii) cyclic compounds corresponding to the following formula ( 2 ) :

in which:

R₇, Rs and R₉ have the same meanings indicated in th formula (1) above;

x is a number between 0 and 20;

y is a number between 1 and 20;

z is equal to 0 or is equal to a number less than 0.5y, the sum y+z being between 1 and 20.

The polyorganosiloxanes comprising an acyloxyalkyl functional group of formula (1) can optionally comprise

CH— Si— OH

I

¾ groups present in proportions not exceeding 15% of the sum s+t+u. Use will preferably be made, among the particularly preferred compounds used in accordance with the present invention, of the compounds of formula (1) or (2) in which :

R.6 is methyl;

R₇ is methyl;

R₈ denotes -(CH₂)₃;

R₉ denotes Ci₂H₂₅, Ci₄H₂₉, Ci₆H₃₃, Ci₈H₃₇ or oleyl;

v is between 1 and 30;

t is between 5 and 16;

u is between 0.5 and 4;

x+y+z is between 3 and 10 inclusive.

These polyorganosiloxanes comprising an acyloxyalkyl functional group also make it possible to improve the swelling of the hair.

The compounds of formula (2) are known and are described in Patent EP 0 376 820 Bi. They are preferably present in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3% by weight and more particularly from 0.5 to 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. Use will more particularly be made of the polyorgano- siloxanes comprising stearate groups having the INCI name: Dimethiconol Stearate, such as the following commercial products:

"Mirasil Wax S ®" (Rhodia Inc.);

"Silsense IWS Silicone ®" (Noveon Consumer Specialties, Lubrizol Advanced Materials Inc.);

"Silwax S ®" (Siltech Corporation) . Another sub ect-matter of the present invention is the use of the combination a) of at least one amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane as defined above and b) of at least one polyorganosiloxane comprising an acyloxyalkyl functional group as defined above in a shaving composition, with the aim of facilitating the shaving of the hair, in particular of causing the hair to swell, of reducing its stiffness, in order to facilitate the passage of the blade, and of reducing the bending forces on the hair during shaving.

FATTY ACID SALTS ( SOAPS )

The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise at least one C6-C20 fatty acid or a mixture of C6-C2₀ fatty acids neutralized by a basifying agent, such as organic bases, for example alkanolamines ( triethanolamine ) , or inorganic bases, such as potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide. Mention may be made, among fatty acids to be neutralized, of lauric acid, oleic acid, coconut oil acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or their mixtures. The proportion of C6-C2₀ fatty acid soap is preferably from 0.5 to 80% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition. The compositions preferably comprise from 10 to 85% by weight of water.

ADDI TIVES

The shaving compositions according to the invention can be formulated in the form of simple aqueous solutions which can be applied to the face immediately before shaving. They generally comprise other cosmetic or dermatological ingredients for example chosen from agents for wetting the beard, agents for conditioning the skin, such as vitamin A, vitamin C or vitamin E, aloes, allantoin, panthenol, hydroxy acids, phospho^¬ lipids, triglycerides, vegetable oils, amino acids), cleansing agents, emollients, moisturizing agents (glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol), thickening or gelling agents, propellants, self-foaming agents, fragrances, colorants, antioxidants or preservatives. They can comprise other nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants.

According to a specific form of the invention, the shaving compositions can be provided in the form of a lotion, cream, foam or gel. Such compositions preferably comprise at least from 60 to 95% of water and more preferably from 70 to 90% of water, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and from 3 to 25% by weight as total amount of surfactant ( s ) and more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight.

Mention may also be made, among the additional anionic surfactants which can be used for the invention, of carboxylates , oxyethylenated or nonoxyethylenated alkyl sulphates, sulphonates, alkyl sulphoacetates , phosphates, polypeptides, anionic alkylpolyglucoside derivatives and their mixtures. Mention may be made, as carboxylates , for example, of:

- amido ether carboxylates (AECs), such as sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO) , sold under the name Akypo Foam 30® by Kao Chemicals;

- polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts, such as oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (65/25/10 C₁2- C1 -C16) , sold under the name Akypo Soft 45 NV® by Kao Chemicals; polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated olive oil fatty acids, such as the product sold under the name Olivem 400® by Biologia E Tecnologia; or oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate, sold under the name Nikkol ECTD- 6NEX® by Nikkol;

- acetates, such as sodium 2- ( 2-hydroxyalkyloxy) - acetate, sold under the name Beaulight SHAA by Sanyo.

Mention may be made, as oxyethylenated or nonoxyethylenated alkyl sulphates, for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (70/30 C₁2- C1 ) (2.2 EO) , sold under the name Sipon AOS 225® by Cognis, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (70/30 C₁2- C 1 ) (3 EO) , sold under the name Sipon LEA 370® by Cognis, ammonium (C₁2- C14 ) - alkyl ether (9 EO) sulphate, sold under the name Rhodapex AB/20® by Rhodia Chimie, or the mixture of sodium and magnesium lauryl and oleyl ether sulphate, sold under the name Empicol BSD 52 by Albright & Wilson .

Mention may be made, as sulphonates, for example of (1) cc-olefin sulphonates, such as sodium -olefin sulphonate ( C14-C16) , sold under the name Bio-Terge AS-40 CG PN® by Stepan and under the names Witconate AOS Protege® and Sulframine AOS PH 12® by Witco, or secondary sodium olefin sulphonate, sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30® by Clariant;

(2) isethionates , such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name Jordapon CI P® by Jordan, (3) taurates, such as the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon CT Pate® by Clariant; N-acyl-N-methyltaurates , such as sodium N-cocoyl-N-methyltaurate, sold under the name Hostapon LT-SF® by Clariant or sold under the name Nikkol CMT-30-T® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl methyl^¬ taurate, sold under the name Nikkol PMT® by Nikkol.

Mention may be made, as sulphosuccinates , for example, of oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl (70/30 C₁₂/C_u) alcohol monosulphosuccinate, sold under the names Setacin 103 Special® and Rewopol SB-FA 30 K 4® by Witco, the disodium salt of a hemisulphosuccinate of C12-C1 alcohols, sold under the name Setacin F Special Paste® by Zschimmer Schwarz, oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by Cognis, or oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauramide monosulphosuccinate, sold under the name Lebon A-5000® by Sanyo.

Mention may be made, as phosphates, for example, of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl monophosphate, sold under the name MAP 20® by Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl phosphate, a mixture of mono- and diester (predominantly diester) sold under the name Crafol AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of octyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Crafol AP-20® by Cognis, or the mixture of ethoxylated (7 mol of EO) 2-butyloctyl phosphate monoester and diester, sold under the name Isofol 12 7 EO-Phosphate Ester® by Condea.

Mention may be made, as polypeptides (which are compounds obtained by condensation of a fatty chain with cereal amino acids and in particular wheat and oat amino acids), for example, of the potassium salt of hydrolysed lauroyl wheat protein, sold under the name Aminofoam W OR® by Croda; the triethanolamine salt of hydrolysed cocoyl soybean protein, sold under the name May-Tein SY® by Maybrook; the sodium salt of oat lauryl amino acids, sold under the name Proteol Oat® by Seppic; collagen hydrolysate grafted to coconut fatty acid, sold under the name Geliderm 3000® by Deutsche Gelatine; or soybean proteins acylated with hydrogenated coconut acids, sold under the name Proteol VS 22® by Seppic. Mention may in particular be made, as anionic alkyl- polyglucoside derivatives, of citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates , carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides . Mention may be made, for example, of the sodium salt of cocoylpoly- glucoside (1,4) tartaric ester, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-ET® by Cesalpinia; the disodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) sulphosuccinic ester, sold under the name Essai 512 MP® by Seppic; the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) citric ester, sold under the name Eucarol AGE-EC® by Cesalpinia; or sodium lauroylpolyglucoside ether carboxylate, sold under the name Plantapon LGC SORB by Cognis.

Use will preferably be made of salts of C6-C2 alkyl ether sulphates comprising from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide groups, in particular alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, amine or aminoalcohol salts and more particularly the sodium salts and more particularly still oxyethylenated sodium (C12-C14) alkyl ether sulphates comprising a mean number of ethylene oxide groups of between 1 and 4 and more particularly sodium laureth sulphate (CTFA name) .

The amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants in accordance with the invention can be chosen from alkyl betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, sultaines, alkylpolyaminocarboxylates (APACs), alkyl- amphoacetates and their mixtures. Mention may be made, as alkyl betaines, for example, of coco betaine, such as the product sold under the name Dehyton AB-30® by Cognis or the commercial products Mirataine BB/FLA from Rhodia or Empigen BB/FL from Huntsman or the product sold under the name Genagen KB® by Clariant; oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl betaine, such as the product sold under the name Lauryl Ether (10 OE) Betaine® by Shin Nihon Rica; or oxyethylenated (10 EO) stearyl betaine, such as the product sold under the name Stearyl Ether (10 OE) Betaine® by Shin Nihon Rica .

Mention may be made, among N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, for example, of cocamidopropyl betaine, sold under the name Lebon 2000 HG® by Sanyo or under the name Empigen BB® by Albright & Wilson; or lauramidopropyl betaine, sold under the name Rewoteric AMB12P® by Witco. Mention may be made, as sultaines, of cocoylamidopropyl hydroxysulphobetaine, sold under the name Crosultaine C-50® by Croda.

Mention may be made, as alkylpolyaminocarboxylates (APACs), of sodium cocoylpolyaminocarboxylate, sold under the names Ampholak 7 CX/C® and Ampholak 7 CX® by Akzo Nobel; sodium stearylpolyaminocarboxylate, sold under the name Ampholak 7 TX/C® by Akzo Nobel; or sodium carboxymethyloleylpolypropylamine, sold under the name Ampholak X07/C® by Akzo Nobel.

Mention may be made, as alkylamphoacetates , for example, of Ν,Ν-disodium N' -cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxy- ethyl-N- ( carboxymethyl ) ethylenediamine (CTFA name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate ) , such as the product sold under the name Miranol C2M Concentre NP® by Rhodia Chimie, and N-sodium N' -cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N- ( carboxymethyl ) ethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium cocoamphoacetate ) .

Use will more particularly be made, among amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, of alkyl betaines and more preferably still of coco betaine and more particularly of coco betaine in the form of a 30% aqueous solution as a mixture with sodium chloride (INCI name: Cocobetaine (and) Sodium Chloride) , such as the commercial product Empigen BB/FL from Huntsman.

The compositions according to the invention can comprise nonionic surfactants. These are compounds well known per se (see in particular, in this regard, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) . Thus, they can be chosen in particular from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, -diols, alkylphenols or acids having a fatty chain preferably comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, where the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups preferably varies from 2 to 60 and it being possible for the number of glycerol groups to range in particular from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides preferably comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; sorbitan ethoxylated fatty acid esters preferably having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters; maltose derivatives ; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; (C6-C2 ) alkylpolyglycosides; N- (C6^~

C2 ) alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides, such as (C₁0-C₁4) alkylamine oxides or N- (Cio-

Ci ) acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; and their mixtures .

Use is preferably made, as alkylpolyglucosides , of those comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and comprising a hydrophilic (glucoside) group preferably comprising from 1.2 to 3 saccharide units. Mention may be made, as alkylpolyglucosides, for example, of decyl glucoside (C9/C11 alkyl (1.4)poly- glucoside) , such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10® by Kao Chemicals, under the name Plantaren 2000 UP® by Cognis and under the name Oramix NS 10® by Seppic; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Oramix CG 110 ® by Seppic; lauryl glucoside, such as the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N® and Plantacare 1200® by Cognis; and coco glucoside, such as the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP® by Cognis.

The maltose derivatives are, for example, those described in the document EP-A-566 438, such as O-octanoyl-6' -D-maltose, or also O-dodecanoyl-6' -D- maltose described in the document FR-2 739 556.

Mention may be made, among polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, of polyglycerolated dodecanediol (3.5 mol of glycerol), a product manufactured under the name Chimexane NF® by Chimex.

The preferred nonionic surfactants are chosen from:

- fatty alcohols having a C₈-C2o fatty chain, more preferably a C₁2-C₁₈ fatty chain, such as, for example, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol ;

- polyoxyethylenated ethers of fatty alcohols having a C₈-C2o fatty chain, more preferably having a C₁2-C₁8 fatty chain, and having from 2 to 60, more preferably from 2 to 30, ethylene oxide units. Mention may be made, among these compounds, for example, of oleth-30, steareth-21, ceteth-20, laureth-4 or laureth-23. The compositions of the invention can additionally comprise a gelling agent and, for example, can comprise at least one nonvolatile liquid hydrocarbon. The terms "volatile" and "liquid" mean that these materials are liquid at ambient temperature and have a boiling point above 200°C. Mention may be made, among these liquid hydrocarbons, of mineral oils or branched aliphatic liquids. These liquids preferably have from 16 to 48 carbon atoms, more preferably from 20 to 40 carbon atoms, and a kinetic viscosity (measured according to Standard ASTM D445) of 5 to 100 cSt and more preferably of 10 to 70 cSt at 40°C. The preferred nonvolatile liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from mineral oils having a kinetic viscosity of 10 to 70 cSt, hydrogenated polyisobutenes with a molecular weight of 320 to 420, and their mixtures. The nonvolatile liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are preferably present at concentrations of less than or equal to 10% by weight and preferably of less than or equal to 7% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of the invention can also comprise a water-soluble gelling agent or a thickening agent for improving the consistency and the stability of the gel or for adjusting the viscosity.

Mention may be made, among these auxiliary gelling agents, of hydroxyalkylcellulose polymers, such as hydroxyethylcellulose or hydroxypropylcellulose

(products sold respectively under the Natrosol or Klucel trade name) ; copolymers of acrylic acid and of polyallylsucrose (products sold under the Carbopol trade name) ; carboxymethylcellulose and cellulose methyl ether (products sold under the Methocel trade name); natural or synthetic gums, or starches. The gelling or thickening agents are preferably present at concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight and more preferably still from 0.01 to 2% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention can additionally comprise a variety of conventional cosmetic ingredients for improving the aesthetic qualities and the performance of these compositions.

The compositions according to the invention can also comprise, in addition, a conditioning cationic polymer for improving the lubricity and the feel of the skin after shaving. Mention may be made, for example, of hydroxyethylcellulose quaternary ammonium salts, such as Polyquaternium-10 or Polyquaternium-24. Mention may also be made of the following cationic polymers :

Polyquaternium-5, such as the product Merquat 5 sold by Calgon;

Polyquaternium-6, such as the product Salcare SC 30 sold by Ciba and the product Merquat 100 sold by Calgon;

Polyquaternium-7 , such as the products Merquat S, Merquat 2200 and Merquat 550 sold by Calgon and the product Salcare SC 10 sold by Ciba;

Polyquaternium-11, such as the products Gafquat 755, Gafquat 755N and Gafquat 734 sold by ISP;

Polyquaternium-15, such as the product Rohagit KF 720 F sold by Rohm;

Polyquaternium-16, such as the products Luviquat FC905, Luviquat FC370, Luviquat HM552 and Luviquat FC550 sold by BASF;

Polyquaternium-22 , such as the product Merquat 280 sold by Calgon; Polyquaternium-28 , such as the product Styleze CC10 sold by ISP;

Polyquaternium-39, such as the product Merquat Plus 3330 sold by Calgon;

Polyquaternium-44 , such as the product Luviquat Care sold by BASF;

Polyquaternium-46, such as the product Luviquat Hold sold by BASF;

Polyquaternium-47 , such as the product Merquat 2001 sold by Calgon.

Use may also be made, as cationic polymer, of cationic guars, such as the product Jaguar sold by Rhodia. The conditioning cationic polymer or polymers are preferably present at concentrations ranging from 0.05 to 2% by weight and more preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition .

Other additives can also be used in the compositions of the invention, such as:

- humectants, such as sorbitol;

- emollients, such as fatty esters, for example isopropyl myristate, decyl oleate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and glyceryl linoleate; propoxylated fatty ethers, such as PPG-10 cetyl ether and PPG-11 stearyl ether; or di- or triglycerides, such as lecithin, the mixture of capric/ caprylic triglycerides, PEG-10 soy sterol or vegetable oils;

- refreshing agents and soothing agents, such as menthol, aloe, allantoin, lanolin, bisabolol or hyaluronic acid;

- lubricants, such as polyethylene glycols (i.e., PEG-14M or PEG-23M) , fluorinated surfactants or silicones (i.e.: dimethicone, dimethiconol , dimethicone copolyol, stearyl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, cyclomethicone, and the like) ;

- vitamins, including precursors and derivatives, such as panthenol, tocopheryl acetate, niacinamide, retinyl palmitate or vitamin A palmitate;

- colorants;

- fragrances;

- antioxidants;

- antibacterial agents and/or antifungal agents;

- preservatives (i.e.: methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone or iodopropynyl butylcarbamate ) ;

- fillers.

Mention may be made, among the fillers which can be used according to the invention, of organic powders. The term "organic powder" is understood to mean, in the present patent application, any solid which is insoluble in the medium at ambient temperature (25°C) .

Mention may be made, as organic powders which can be used in the composition of the invention, for example, of polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the Orgasol names by Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name of Polytrap; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name Microsphere M-100 by Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85 by Wackherr; ethylene/ acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name Flobeads by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders, such as hollow microspheres, in particular the microspheres formed of a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, of acrylonitrile and of methacrylate sold under the name Expancel by Kemanord Plast under the references 551 DE 12 (particle size of approximately 12 μπι and density of 40 kg/m³) , 551 DE 20 (particle size of approximately 30 μπι and density of 65 kg/m³) and 551 DE 50 (particle size of approximately 40 μπι) or the microspheres sold under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by Matsumoto; powders formed of natural organic materials, such as powders formed of starch, in particular of crosslinked or noncrosslinked maize, wheat or rice starches, such as the powders formed of starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride sold under the name Dry-Flo by National Starch; silicone resin microbeads, such as those sold under the name Tospearl by Toshiba Silicone, in particular Tospearl 240; amino acid powders, such as the lauroyl lysine powder sold under the name Amihope LL-11 by A inomoto; wax microdispersion particles which preferably have mean dimensions of less than 1 μπι and in particular ranging from 0.02 μπι to 1 μπι and which are essentially composed of a wax or of a mixture of waxes, such as the products sold under the name Aquacer by Byk Cera, in particular Aquacer 520 (mixture of synthetic and natural waxes), Aquacer 514 or 513 (polyethylene wax) or Aquacer 511 (polymer wax) , or such as the products sold under the name Jonwax 120 by Johnson Polymer (mixture of polyethylene and paraffin waxes) and under the name Ceraflour 961 by Byk Cera (micronized modified polyethylene wax); and their mixtures. Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound or compounds mentioned above and/or their amounts so that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions in accordance with the invention are not, or not substantially, detrimentally affected by the envisaged addition or additions.

According to a specific form of the invention, the compositions can be provided in the form of a shaving foam. Shaving foams are generally in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in which the aqueous phase generally comprises a water-soluble anionic surfactant. The product is generally packaged in a monobloc aerosol container in which the propellant is in a mixture with the dispensable; the foam is formed at the outlet of the aerosol device. The propellant is preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbons. The boiling point of the propellant preferably varies from -20 to 40°C. The propellants which can be used according to the invention are chosen from C -C6 aliphatic hydrocarbons, such as n-pentane, isopentane, neopentane, n-butane, isobutene and their mixtures. More preferably, an isobutene/butane/propane mixture will be used. The propellant is preferably present at concentrations ranging from 1 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 2 to 6% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

According to a specific form of the invention, the shaving compositions can be provided in the form of a self-foaming gel. Such formulations are provided in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in which the self- foaming agent, generally a volatile aliphatic hydrocarbon (i.e.: with a low boiling point), is dissolved in the oily phase, and the aqueous phase generally comprises a water-soluble anionic surfactant. The product is generally packaged in an aerosol container with a separation, such as a piston or a flexible bag, to separate the self-foaming agent from the propellant necessary for the expulsion of the product. The product is applied in the form of a transparent, translucent or opaque gel which is substantially devoid of foam until it is spread over the skin, from which point a foam is produced by evaporation of the volatile hydrocarbon foaming agent. The self-foaming agent is preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbons and volatile halogenated hydrocarbons having a sufficiently low boiling point to allow the latter to evaporate and to foam the gel when applied to the skin and a sufficiently high boiling point to prevent a foam from being produced prematurely. The boiling point of the self-foaming agent preferably varies from -20 to 40°C. The self- foaming agent is preferably chosen so as to form a vapour pressure at 20°C of 3 to 20 psig and preferably of 5 to 15 psig. The self-foaming agents which can be used according to the invention are chosen from C -C6 aliphatic hydrocarbons, such as n-pentane, isopentane, neopentane, n-butane, isobutane and their mixtures. More preferably, an isopentane/isobutane mixture will be used in a ratio by weight ranging from 1/1 to 3/1. The self-foaming agent is preferably present at concentrations ranging from 1 to 8% by weight and preferably from 2 to 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

The invention also relates to a shaving kit, characterized in that it comprises:

(a) at least one shaving composition as defined above and

(b) at least one razor, in particular a disposable razor, and optionally

(c) a means for spreading a shaving composition.

According to a specific form of the invention, the kit can additionally comprise an aftershave composition for soothing the burn of the shaving. The compositions according to the invention can constitute products for cleansing or removing make up from the skin (body, face, eyes) . They can be used for any skin type (dry, normal, combination or greasy) . The compositions of the invention can be used in particular as shower product, bath product, hand cleansing product or product for removing make up from the eyes and/or face. The compositions according to the invention can also be used for the treatment of greasy skin, in particular by adding thereto specific active principles for the treatment of greasy skin, such as antiseborrhoeics , such as, for example, salicylic acid and its derivatives, azelaic acid, triclosan, tricarban, piroctone olamine or niacinamide (vitamin PP) . The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention. The amounts shown are as % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition, and the names of the compounds are chemical names or INCI names, according to the circumstances.

EXAMPLES 1 to : Shaving foams

(*) outside the invention Procedure

The compositions described are manufactured in the following way: The hydrophilic compounds (glycerol) are added to the water of the formulation and mixing is then carried out until dissolution is complete. This mixture is subsequently heated and stirred, and then the stearic acid and the polysorbate 20 are added. Once a temperature of 75 °C has been reached and the compounds have completely dissolved, the triethanolamine is added and mixing is carried out at this temperature for at least 15 minutes. The mixture is subsequently cooled and the silicone is added at approximately 50°C. The heat-sensitive compounds are added and mixed at 40°C, such as, for example, fragrance (or the colorants, vitamins or preservatives) . The combined mixture is finally cooled to ambient temperature. The composition is packaged in an aerosol container; a valve is added and then crimped; the gas mixture is introduced into the container and then mixed. The shaving composition is recovered by pressing on an aerosol dispenser.

2) Test of stability on storage

The compositions are, on the one hand, placed in an oven at 45°C for two months and, on the other hand, stored at ambient temperature :

Inter alia, the colour of the samples is compared.

Grades

Colour stability Colour change

5 Very good 5 No yellowing

4 Good 4 Very slight yellowing

3 Acceptable 3 Slight yellowing

2 Poor 2 Yellowing

1 Very poor 1 Strong yellowing

2) Test for quantitative determination of the composition deposited on the skin

Application of the shaving compositions to the skin

The shaving compositions are applied manually to skin washed with water and soap (comprising no silicone) . The composition to be quantitatively determined (approximately 200 mg) is applied to the skin, left on the skin for 5 minutes and then removed using a metal spatula (simulating shaving) .

A "D-squame" adhesive disc (diameter 22 mm, Cuderm brand) is subsequently applied to the surface of the skin and is held in place under a weight of 100 grams for 40 seconds: this D-squame makes it possible to recover the cells of the upper layer of the epidermis and the compounds which are present therein.

A Control D-squame is applied to a region of the bare skin .

This disc is subsequently packaged in a glass flask and stored in a freezer until analyzed.

During quantitative determination by X-ray fluorescence, the disc is placed in a specific cell and then analyzed.

Quantitative determination of silicone on the skin: Principle :

Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) .

Identification of the element silicon present in the compositions applied.

X-ray fluorescence spectrometry is a non-destructive multi-element analytical technique. It makes it possible to obtain the composition of an inorganic sample for the elements between aluminium and uranium in the Periodic Table. A sample is excited by X-ray photons originating from an X-ray tube (rhodium tube in our case) . These photons tear off electrons from the sample, thus creating holes. In order to restore equilibrium, other electrons originating from higher layers will go and fill in the holes. These changes in electron layers are accompanied by emissions of energies characteristic of the element excited (X-ray fluorescence spectrum) .

Equipment used:

Minipal 4 X-ray fluorescence spectrometer from Panalytical and XRF plastic cells + 3.6 μπι polyester/ PETP film (Panalytical SAS) .

Parameters : Voltage 15 kV; intensity 0.580 mA; no filter; acquisition time 60 seconds.

Procedure : The sample to be quantitatively determined (the D-squame) is placed in the XRF cell and then placed in the spectrometer; the result of the measurement is expressed in counts per second (e.g.: 32 cps) . Three measurements per sample are carried out. A calibration line for the silicone to be quantitatively determined is prepared using solutions by weight determined in an appropriate solvent (or solvent mixture) (e.g.: hexane/ 2-propanol) . This line has the equation: Concentration ^g/cm²) = aX + b, where X is the count value (cps) obtained during the measurement by spectrometry and a and b are calibration constants. The concentration of silicone present on each D-squame is deduced therefrom. RESULTS

(*) outside the invention

It is found that composition 3 according to the invention, comprising amphiphilic aminopolyorgano- siloxane, is stable on storage after 2 months at ambient temperature and at 45°C, in contrast to composition 4 comprising an amodimethicone .

It is found that composition 3 according to the invention, comprising amphiphilic aminopolyorgano- siloxane, results in a substantially greater deposition of composition than composition 2, comprising a polyorganosiloxane comprising an acyloxyalkyl functional group, and than composition 1, not comprising silicone.

Claims

1. Method for shaving the skin, in particular the skin of the face of men, comprising at least the following stages:

a) a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one amphiphilic amino- polyorganosiloxane is applied to the region of skin to be shaved;

b) the hairs are shaved using a razor.

2. Method according to Claim 1, in which the composition comprises at least one C6- C20 fatty acid salt or a mixture of C6- C20 fatty acid salts which is (are) neutralized by an organic or inorganic base.

3. Method according to Claim 1 or 2, according to which the amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane is chosen from those comprising amino groups substituted in part by at least one radical of formula:

T-CH₂—CHOH- CH2 - ( a ) in which T denotes a residue of a nonionic surfactant of formula: in which R¹ denotes a C8- C2 hydrocarbon radical, X denotes a C2 - C alkylene and q is an integer from 4 to 50; with at least 50% of the X groups denoting ethylene and the said substituted amino groups being connected to the silicon atoms of the silicone backbone by alkylene bridges or mono- or oligo ( alkyleneamino ) - alkylene bridges; in a mean ratio of 1.5 radicals of formula ( a ) per aminoalkyl, aminomono ( alkyleneamino ) - alkyl or aminooligo ( alkyleneamino ) alkyl group bonded to a silicon atom.

4. Method according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, where the amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane corresponds to the following formula (I) :

in which:

the A radicals, which are identical or different, denote hydroxyl or an group;

in which:

CH₂— CH— CH₂

CH₃ group;

5. Method according to Claim 4, where the aminopoly- organosiloxane of formula (I) corresponds to the following structure (b) :

in which:

R denotes OH or a methoxy radical

the A radicals simultaneously group of formula : q = 9 and n and m are such that the weight-average molecular weight is 130 000 g/mol.

6. Method according to Claim 1, where the amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane corresponds to the following formula (II) :

in which:

R'", which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched C8-C₂₀ alkyl group and more particularly a linear C13-C15 alkyl radical;

R' and R", which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched C₁-C5 alkylene;

7. Method according to Claim 6, where the aminopoly^¬ organosiloxane of formula (II) is chosen from those for which:

R' denotes the -CH2-CH2-CH2- group or the CH₂— CH— CH₂

CH₃

group; R" denotes -CH₂-CH₂-

8. Method according to Claim 7, where the aminopoly- organosiloxane of formula (II) corresponds to the following structure (a) :

where r has a value from 12 to 14, n varies from 50 to 70 and m varies from 1 to 3.

9. Method according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, where the composition additionally comprises at least one polyorganosiloxane comprising an acyloxyalkyl functional group chosen from:

(i) linear compounds corresponding to the following formula ( I ) :

in which:

the R.6 radicals, which are identical or different, are chosen from methyl, phenyl, OCORg or hydroxyl, it being possible for just one of the R6 radicals to be OH;

the R₇ radicals, which are identical or different, are chosen from phenyl or methyl radicals, 60 mol% of the combined R.6 and R₇ radicals being methyl;

R.8 is a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon alkylene link comprising from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and more particularly a -(C¾)3- trimethylene and 2-methyltrimethylene CH₂— CH— CH₂

CH₃

chain;

Rg is a C8-C₂₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical;

v is a number between 0 and 20;

t is a number between 1 and 20;

u is equal to 0 or is equal to a number less than 0.5t, the sum t+u being between 1 and 20;

(ii) cyclic compounds corresponding to the following formula ( 2 ) :

in which:

R₇, R₈ and R9 have the same meanings indicated in the formula (1) above;

x is a number between 0 and 20;

y is a number between 1 and 20;

10. Method according to Claim 9, where the compounds of formula (1) or (2) are chosen from those for which: R6 is methyl;

R₇ is methyl; R₈ denotes -(CH₂) 3;

R₉ denotes C₁2H25, C₁4H29, Ci₆H₃₃, Ci₈H₃₇ or oleyl;

v is between 1 and 30;

t is between 5 and 16;

u is between 0.5 and 4;

x+y+z is between 3 and 10 inclusive;

and are chosen in particular from polyorganosiloxanes comprising stearate groups.

11. Method according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, where the shaving composition is provided in the form of a lotion, cream, gel, foam or self-foaming gel and more particularly in the form of a shaving foam.

12. Composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

a) at least one amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane as defined in any one of Claims 4 to 8;

13. Composition according to Claim 12, additionally comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane comprising an acyloxyalkyl functional group of formula (1) or (2) as defined in Claims 9 and 10.

14. Shaving kit, characterized in that it comprises:

(a) at least one shaving composition as defined in either one of Claims 12 and 13 and

(b) at least one razor, in particular a disposable razor, and optionally

(c) a means for spreading a shaving composition.

15. Method for cleaning the skin, which consists in applying, to the surface, a composition as defined in either one of Claims 12 and 13, followed by rinsing with water.