WO2009130246A1 - Cosmetic composition with a heating effect in aerosol form - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition with a heating effect in aerosol form Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2009130246A1
WO2009130246A1 PCT/EP2009/054826 EP2009054826W WO2009130246A1 WO 2009130246 A1 WO2009130246 A1 WO 2009130246A1 EP 2009054826 W EP2009054826 W EP 2009054826W WO 2009130246 A1 WO2009130246 A1 WO 2009130246A1
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Prior art keywords
weight
composition according
company
name
composition
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PCT/EP2009/054826
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French (fr)
Inventor
Jérôme Senee
Delphine Compain
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2009130246A1 publication Critical patent/WO2009130246A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q9/00Preparations for removing hair or for aiding hair removal
    • A61Q9/02Shaving preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046Aerosols; Foams
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/24Thermal properties
    • A61K2800/242Exothermic; Self-heating; Heating sensation
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31Anhydrous

Definitions

  • the subject of the present invention is an anhydrous cosmetic composition, in particular a shaving composition, comprising at least one propellant and a metal salt, and the uses of the said composition in the cosmetic field, in particular for shaving.
  • the applicant has found, surprisingly, that it was possible to improve the shaving of body hair by providing a foaming cosmetic composition with a heating effect.
  • the invention relates to a cosmetic composition packaged as an aerosol, comprising, in an anhydrous medium, at least one exothermic metal salt, at least one polyol and at least one propellant.
  • the composition of the invention is exothermic, that is to say that it has a heating effect and therefore that the user feels heating during the application of the said composition to wet or moistened skin. It is a composition whose temperature in the presence of water (the water added during use or alternatively the water present in the skin) can increase by several degrees (one to twenty degrees) instantly. This heating effect will make it possible to soften and/or make supple the hair of the skin and to thus promote the shaving efficiency and also allow opening of the pores of the skin and therefore better cleansing of the skin.
  • the composition according to the invention consists of an anhydrous medium.
  • anhydrous is understood here to mean a practically anhydrous medium, that is to say generally comprising less than 6% by weight of water, preferably less than 4% by weight of water, and better still less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. It is preferably completely anhydrous and therefore free of water.
  • composition of the invention being a cosmetic composition and therefore intended for topical application, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, the mucous membranes and/or keratin fibres.
  • the present invention relates to a method of shaving consisting in applying to the skin a composition as defined above.
  • the propellant may or may not be soluble in the composition.
  • the propellant is preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbons and halogenated volatile hydrocarbons.
  • the boiling point of the propellant preferably varies from -20 to 4O 0 C.
  • the propellants which can be used according to the invention are chosen from aliphatic C 4 -C 6 hydrocarbons such as n-pentane, isopentane, neopentane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof. More preferably, an isobutane/butane/propane mixture will be used.
  • the propellant is preferably present in concentrations ranging from 1 to 20% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the metal salts used in the present invention are salts having exothermic properties, that is to say which release heat when they are moistened. They are chosen in particular from alkaline-earth metal salts, magnesium salts and mixtures thereof.
  • alkaline-earth metal salts there may be mentioned in particular calcium salts and, more especially, calcium halides such as calcium iodide, chloride and bromide. Calcium chloride is preferably used.
  • magnesium salts magnesium sulphate may be mentioned in particular. It is also possible to use a mixture of several salts .
  • the exothermic metal salt is chosen from magnesium sulphate, calcium chloride and mixtures thereof .
  • the quantity of metal salt(s) may range for example from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight and even better from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention contains at least one polyol because the polyols supplement the exothermic action of the salts.
  • the polyols may be chosen in particular from polyols having at least 2 hydroxyl groups and at least 3 carbon atoms, such as glycerine, diglycerine, and the glycols such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols having a molecular weight of less than 600, such as PEG-8 (or polyethylene 400) , the sugars such as sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
  • polystyrene resin As polyols, glycerine, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, PEG-8 and mixtures thereof are preferably used.
  • the quantity of polyol (s) depends of the quantity of salts present in the composition and the heating effect desired. It may range for example from 0.5 to 80% by weight, preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, even better from 10 to 70% by weight and better still from 20 to 65% by weight and better still from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the polyol (s) represents at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight and better, at least 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may contain one or more hydrophilic silicas.
  • the quantity of hydrophilic silica (s) may range for example from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight and even better from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • hydrophilic silica is understood to mean, in the present application, both pure hydrophilic silicas and particles coated with hydrophilic silica.
  • hydrophilic silicas which may be used in the composition of the invention are preferably amorphous, and they may be of pyrogenic origin or of precipitated origin. They are generally in pulverulent form.
  • the pyrogenic silicas are obtained by pyrolysis in a continuous flame at 1000 0 C of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl 4 ) in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen.
  • the precipitated silicas are obtained by reacting an acid with solutions of alkali metal silicates, preferably of sodium silicate.
  • the hydrophilic silica is chosen from silicas having a specific surface area of 30 to 500 m 2 /g, and a mean particle size in numerical terms ranging from 3 to 50 nm. They are more particularly the hydrophilic silicas described in Tables (1) and (2) below, and mixtures thereof.
  • the hydrophilic silica used in the composition of the invention may also consist of a particle that is completely or partially coated with silica, in particular an inorganic particle that is completely or partially coated with silica, such as silica beads containing titanium oxide, which are marketed under the name TORAYCERAM S-IT ® by the company Toray; silica- alumina microspheres containing titanium oxide (size: 105 ⁇ ) , marketed under the name Z-LIGHT-SPHERE W 1012 ® by the company Zeelan; particles of amorphous precipitated synthetic silica/titanium oxide (size: 106-500 ⁇ ) , which are marketed under the name NEOSIL PC20S ® by the company Crosfield; fibres of nylon- 6-silica-titanium oxide (length 2 mm and thickness 2 deniers) , marketed under the name FIBERLON Y2 ® by the company Wackherr; silica coated with titanium dioxide and coated with porous silica (85/5/10
  • MAXLIGHT TS -04 ® by the company Nichimen Europe PLC and nanotitanium oxide coated with silica (80/20) (titanium dioxide particle size: 30 nm; thickness of silica: 2 nm) marketed under the name MAXLIGHT TS-042 ® by the company Nichimen Europe PLC.
  • Pyrogenic silicas and in particular those marketed under the names AEROSIL (INCI name: silica) and in particular the one marketed under the name AEROSIL 200 by the company Degussa-H ⁇ ls are preferably used as hydrophilic silica.
  • the composition may contain one or more hydrophobic silicas.
  • the quantity of hydrophobic silica (s) may range for example from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight and even better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • hydrophobic silica in the present application is understood to mean both pure hydrophobic silicas and particles coated with hydrophobic silica.
  • hydrophobic silicas which may be used in the composition of the invention are preferably amorphous and of pyrogenic origin. They are preferably provided in pulverulent form.
  • the amorphous hydrophobic silicas of pyrogenic origin are obtained from hydrophilic silicas.
  • the latter are obtained by pyrolysis in a continuous flame at 1000 0 C of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl 4 ) in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. They are then made hydrophobic by a treatment with halogenated silanes, alkoxysilanes or silazanes.
  • the hydrophobic silicas differ from the starting hydrophilic silicas, inter alia, in a lower density of silanol groups and in a smaller adsorption of water vapour.
  • the hydrophobic silica is chosen from silicas having a specific surface area of 50 to 500 m 2 /g, and a mean particle size in numerical terms ranging from 3 to 50 nm. They are more particularly the hydrophobic silicas described in Table (3) below, and mixtures thereof .
  • the hydrophobic silica used in the composition of the invention may also consist of a particle that is completely or partially coated with silica, in particular an inorganic particle that is completely or partially coated with hydrophobic silica, such as pigments and metal oxides coated with hydrophobic silica. These particles may also have optical properties in the product and on the skin, for example they may have a mattifying or mildly bleaching effect.
  • hydrophobic silica use is preferably made of a hydrophobic pyrogenic silica that has been surface- treated with a dimethylsiloxane, such as that marketed under the name AEROSIL R974 (INCI name: Silica Dimethyl Silylate) by the company Degussa-H ⁇ ls .
  • AEROSIL R974 INCI name: Silica Dimethyl Silylate
  • the composition according to the invention preferably comprises an oily medium comprising at least one oil.
  • the quantity of oil(s) may range for example from 5 to 80% by weight, preferably from 10 to 60% by weight, even better from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • oil is understood to mean a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 0 C) .
  • oils which can be used in the composition of the invention there may be mentioned for example: - hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or alternatively, for example, sweet almond oil, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, gourd oil, coriander oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil (Prunus Armenica oil), macadamia oil, arara oil, oil from rUniqeman, avocado oil, the triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
  • - hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon
  • esters and ethers in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulae R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil or 660084 PCL-LIQUID from the company SYMRISE (mixture of cetylstearyl 2-ethylhexanoate and isopropyl myristate) , isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate
  • hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile paraffin oils, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam ® oil;
  • fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetearyl alcohol) , octyldodecanol , 2-butyloctanol , 2-hexyldecanol , 2-undecylpentadecanol , oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol;
  • fluorinated oils there may also be mentioned perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 , 3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC PCI ® " and "FLUTEC PC3 ® " by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals ; perfluoro-1 , 2-dimethylcyclobutane,- perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050 " and "PF 5060 " by the company 3M, or alternatively bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL " by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name "MSX 4518 0 " by the company 3M and nonafluoroethoxyiso
  • hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean, in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
  • composition of the invention may contain other fatty substances, such as fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Cl-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; silicone gums (INCI name: Dimethiconol) alone or as a mixture with a silicone oil, such as the product marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, which is a mixture of Dimethiconol and Cyclopentasiloxane in the ratio 14.7/85.3 (dimethiconol) ; silicone elastomers such as those marketed under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu; waxes, for example mineral waxes, waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, waxes of plant origin, hydrogenated oils that are concrete at 25 0 C, fatty esters and glycerides that are concrete at
  • the composition may comprise at least one foaming surfactant chosen from nonionic, ionic, in particular anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic foaming surfactants.
  • the nonionic foaming surfactants may be chosen in particular from alkyl polyglucosides (APG) , oxyalkylenated glycerol esters, oxyalkylenated sugar esters, and mixtures thereof.
  • APG alkyl polyglucosides
  • alkyl polyglucosides use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units.
  • the alkyl polyglucosides may be chosen for example from decyl glucoside (C9/C11 alkyl polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product marketed under the name Mydol 10 by the company Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP by the company Cognis; caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711 by the company Cognis, • lauryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP by the company Cognis; cocoglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP by the company Cognis; caprylyl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP by the company Cognis; and mixtures thereof .
  • decyl glucoside C9/C11 alkyl polyglucoside (1.4)
  • Mydol 10 by the company Kao Chemicals
  • the oxyalkylenated glycerol esters are in particular the polyoxyethylenated derivatives of esters of glyceryl and of a fatty acid and of their hydrogenated derivatives.
  • These oxyalkylenated glycerol esters may be chosen for example from hydrogenated and oxyethylenated glyceryl esters of fatty acids such as PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate marketed under the name Rewoderm LI-S 80 by the company Goldschmidt; oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoates such as PEG- 7 glyceryl cocoate marketed under the name Tegosoft GC by the company Goldschmidt, and PEG- 30 glyceryl cocoate marketed under the name Rewoderm LI -63 by the company Goldschmidt; and mixtures thereof.
  • the oxyalkylenated sugar esters are in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acid esters of sugars. These oxyalkylenated sugar esters may be chosen for example from oxyethylenated glucose esters such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate marketed under the name Glucamate DOE 120 by the company Amerchol .
  • the anionic foaming surfactants may be chosen in particular from the anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin or of silk proteins, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulphosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulphoacetates, polypeptides, the anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucoside, and mixtures thereof.
  • the anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin are hydrolysates of protein with a hydrophobic group, it being possible for the said hydrophobic group to be naturally present in the protein or to be added by the reaction of the protein and/or the protein hydrolysate with a hydrophobic compound.
  • the proteins are of plant origin or are derived from silk, and the hydrophobic group may be in particular a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin there may be mentioned more particularly the hydrolysates of apple, wheat, soybean or oat proteins comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and their salts.
  • the alkyl chain may be in particular a lauryl chain and the salt may be a sodium, potassium and/or ammonium salt.
  • salts of the hydrolysates of silk protein modified with lauric acid such as the product marketed under the name KAWA SILK by the company Kawaken
  • the salts of the hydrolysates of wheat protein modified with lauric acid such as the potassium salt marketed under the name Aminofoam W OR by the company Croda (INCI name: Potassium lauroyl wheat aminoacids) and the sodium salt marketed under the name PROTEOL LW 30 by the company Seppic (INCI name: sodium lauroyl wheat aminoacids)
  • the salts of the hydrolysates of oat protein comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and more especially the salts of the hydrolysates of oat protein modified with lauric acid, such as the sodium salt marketed under the name PROTEOL OAT (30% aqueous solution) by the company Seppic (INCI name: Sodium lauroy
  • phosphates and alkyl phosphates mention may be made for example of the monoalkyl phosphates and the dialkyl phosphates, such as the lauryl monophosphate marketed under the name MAP 20 " by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid, mixture of mono- or diester (diester predominantly) marketed under the name CRAFOL AP- 31 by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and diester of octylphosphoric acid marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-20 0 by the company Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 moles of EO) phosphoric acid monoester and diester of 2-butyloctanol, marketed under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER ® by the company Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of (Ci 2 -Ci 3 ) monoalkyl phosphate marketed under the references
  • amidoether carboxylates such as sodium lauryl amidoether carboxylate (3 EO) marketed under the name AKYPO FOAM 30 ® by the company Kao Chemicals .
  • the polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts such as the oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (C12-14-16 65/25/10) marketed under the name AKYPO SOFT 45 NV ® by the company Kao Chemicals, the polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated fatty acids of olive oil origin marketed under the name OLIVEM 400 by the company BIOLOGIA E TECNOLOGIA, the oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate marketed under the name NIKKOL ECTD- 6NEX ® by the company Nikkol .
  • the fatty acid salt or soap is obtained from a fatty acid and a base, the fatty acid comprising a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • the bases also called saponification agents) completely or partially neutralize the fatty acids.
  • the bases which may be used to obtain the salts may be for example inorganic bases such as alkali metal hydroxides (sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide) , alkaline- earth metal hydroxides (magnesium hydroxide) or ammonium hydroxide, or alternatively organic bases such as triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine.
  • the fatty acid may be chosen in particular from Cio to C 2 4 , and in particular Ci 2 -Ci 8 , fatty acids, and in particular lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid and mixtures thereof.
  • amino acid derivatives there may be mentioned in particular the alkali metal salts of amino acids, such as: sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate marketed under the name SARKOSYL NL 97 ® by the company Ciba or marketed under the name ORAMIX L 30 by the company Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate marketed under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN ® by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate marketed under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN ® by the company
  • alaninates such as sodium N- lauroyl -N-methyl amidopropionate marketed under the name SODIUM NIKKOL ALANINATE LN 30 ® by the company Nikkol, or marketed under the name ALANONE ALE by the company Kawaken, N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine triethanolamine marketed under the name ALANONE ALTA by the company Kawaken; glutamates, such as triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT- 12 ® by the company Ajinomoto, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT- 12 ® by the company Ajinomoto; aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N- lauroyl aspartate/triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate marketed under the name ASPARACK by the company Mitsubishi; glycine derivatives (glycinates) , such as sodium
  • sulphosuccinates there may be mentioned for example oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl alcohol monosulphosuccinate (Ci 2 /Ci 4 70/30) marketed under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL ® , REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4 ® by the company Witco, the disodium salt of a hemisulphosuccinate of Ci 2 -Ci 4 alcohols marketed under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE ® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulphosuccinate marketed under the name
  • polydimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates such as disodium PEG- 12 dimethicone sulphosuccinate marketed under the name MACKANATE-DC30 by the company Mac Intyre .
  • alkyl sulphates there may be mentioned for example triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (INCI name: TEA- lauryl sulfate) such as the product marketed by the company Huntsman under the name EMPICOL TL40 FL or that marketed by the company Cognis under the name TEXAPON T42, which products are in aqueous solution at 40%. Mention may also be made of ammonium lauryl sulphate (CFTA name: Ammonium lauryl sulfate) such as the product marketed by the company Huntsman under the name EMPICOL AL 30FL which is in aqueous solution at 30%.
  • CFTA name Ammonium lauryl sulfate
  • alkyl ether sulphates there may be mentioned for example sodium lauryl ether sulphate (INCI name: sodium laureth sulfate) such as that marketed under the names TEXAPON N40 and TEXAPON AOS 225 UP by the company Cognis or such as that marketed under the name EMPICOL ESB 3/FL3 by the company Huntsman, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (INCI name: ammonium laureth sulfate) such as that marketed under the name STANDAPOL EA- 2 by the company Cognis.
  • sodium lauryl ether sulphate such as that marketed under the names TEXAPON N40 and TEXAPON AOS 225 UP by the company Cognis or such as that marketed under the name EMPICOL ESB 3/FL3 by the company Huntsman
  • ammonium lauryl ether sulphate such as that marketed under the name STANDAPOL EA- 2 by
  • alpha-olefin sulphonates such as sodium (Ci 4 -I 6 ) alpha-olefin sulphonate marketed under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 0 by the company Stepan, marketed under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE ® and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12 by the company Witco or marketed under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG ® by the company Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulphonate marketed under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 30 ® by the company Clariant; linear alkyl aryl sulphonates such as sodium xylene sulphonate marketed under the names MANROSOL SXS30 ® , MANROSOL SXS40 ® , MANROSOL SXS93 ® by the company Manro .
  • alpha-olefin sulphonates such as sodium (Ci 4 -I 6 ) alpha-olefin s
  • acyl isethionates such as sodium cocoyl isethionate, such as the product marketed under the name J0RDAP0N CI P " by the company Jordan .
  • taurates there may be mentioned the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyl taurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PATE ® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyl taurates such as sodium N-cocoyl N-methyl taurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF ® by the company Clariant or marketed under the name NIKKOL CMT- 30 -T 0 by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl methyl taurate marketed under the name NIKKOL PMT " by the company Nikkol .
  • the anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides may be in particular glycerol citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides.
  • alkyl polyglucosides There may be mentioned for example the sodium salt of cocoyl polyglucoside (1.4) tartaric ester, marketed under the name EUCAROL AGE-ET ® by the company Cesalpinia, the disodium salt of cocoyl polyglucoside (1.4) sulphosuccinic ester, marketed under the name ESSAI 512 MP by the company Seppic, the sodium salt of cocoyl polyglucoside (1.4) citric ester marketed under the name EUCAROL AGE-EC ® by the company Cesalpinia.
  • amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants may be chosen for example from betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkyl amphoacetates and mixtures thereof .
  • alkylbetaines such as for example cocobetaine such as the product marketed under the name DEHYTON AB-3 ⁇ " by the company Cognis, laurylbetaine such as the product marketed under the name GENAGEN KB by the company Clariant, oxyethylenated (10 EO) laurylbetaine, such as the product marketed under the name LAURYLETHER (10 EO) BETAINE ® by the company Shin Nihon Portugal, oxyethylenated stearylbetaine (10 EO) such as the product marketed under the name STEARYLETHER (10 EO) BETAINE 0 by the company Shin Nihon Portugal.
  • alkylbetaines such as for example cocobetaine such as the product marketed under the name DEHYTON AB-3 ⁇ " by the company Cognis
  • laurylbetaine such as the product marketed under the name GENAGEN KB by the company Clariant
  • oxyethylenated (10 EO) laurylbetaine such as the product
  • N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives there may be mentioned for example cocamidopropylbetaine marketed under the name LEBON 2000 HG by the company Sanyo, or marketed under the name EMPIGEN BB ® by the company Albright & Wilson, lauramidopropylbetaine marketed under the name REWOTERIC AMB12P ® by the company Witco.
  • hydroxylsultaines such as cocamidopropyl- hydroxysultaine such as the product marketed under the name REWOTERIC AM CAS by the company Golschmidt- Degussa, or the product marketed under the name CROSULTAINE C- 5O 0 by the company Croda .
  • alkyl polyaminocarboxylates there may be mentioned sodium cocoyl polyaminocarboxylate marketed under the name AMPHOLAK 7 CX/C ® and AMPHOLAK 7 CX by the company Akzo Nobel, sodium stearyl polyamidocarboxylate marketed under the name AMPHOLAK 7 TX/C by the company Akzo Nobel, sodium carboxymethyloleylpolypropylamine marketed under the name AMPHOLAK XO7/C 0 by the company Akzo Nobel.
  • APAC alkyl polyaminocarboxylates
  • alkyl amphoacetates there may be mentioned for example N-disodium N-cocoyl -N-carboxymethoxyethyl- N-carboxymethylethylenediamine (INCI name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate) such as the product marketed under the name MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP ® by the company Rhodia, N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N- carboxymethylethylenediamine (INCI name: sodium cocamphoacetate) , sodium cocoamphohydroxypropyl sulphonate marketed under the name MIRANOL CSE by the company Rhodia.
  • N-disodium N-cocoyl -N-carboxymethoxyethyl- N-carboxymethylethylenediamine such as the product marketed under the name MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP ® by the company Rhodia
  • the foaming surfactant may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight .
  • composition may further contain one or more other additives, in particular lipophilic additives, which are conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.
  • zeolites which are silicoaluminates .
  • zeolites there may be mentioned in particular activated zeolites, and for example the zeolites A, the zeolites X such as those marketed by the companies Fluka and Union Carbide, the zeolites MAP as described in the document EP-A-384070, the activated zeolites A as described in the document EP-A-187912 and in particular those marketed under the name ADVERA 401N ET ADVERA 402N by the company PQ Corporation.
  • perfumes As additives, mention may also be made of perfumes; preservatives; antioxidants; sequestrants,- fillers; colorants, cosmetic or dermatological active agents, or mixtures thereof.
  • These adjuvants are used in the usual proportions for cleansing and/or care compositions, and for example from 0.01 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.
  • These adjuvants should be of a nature such that and used in quantities such that they do not disrupt the properties sought for the composition of the invention.
  • the composition according to the invention contains, as fillers, exfoliating particles which will allow scrubbing of the skin.
  • exfoliating particles use may be made of the exfoliating or scrubbing particles of mineral, plant or organic origins.
  • polyethylene beads or powder such as those marketed under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or such as the powder marketed under the name Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 by the company Dupont ; nylon particles such as those marketed by the company Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS; fibres such as polyamide fibres, such as those marketed by the company Utexbel under the name PULPE POLYAMIDE 12185 TAILLE 0,3 MM, polyvinylchloride powder; pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as pumice 3/B from Eyraud; the ground shells of fruit kernels such as the ground products of apricot kernels or of walnut shells,- sawdust; glass beads,- alumina (aluminium oxide) (INCI name: Alumina) such as the product marketed under the name Dermagrain 900 by the company Marketech International, sugar crystals
  • composition according to the invention may also contain other fillers such as, for example, talc, modified or unmodified starch, and in particular starches esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride and more particularly "Aluminium Starch octenyl succinate" such as the product marketed by the company National Starch under the name Dry- Flo.
  • other fillers such as, for example, talc, modified or unmodified starch, and in particular starches esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride and more particularly "Aluminium Starch octenyl succinate" such as the product marketed by the company National Starch under the name Dry- Flo.
  • fillers may be present in a quantity ranging for example from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, even better from 1 to 10% and better still from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • active agents there may be mentioned any care or cleansing active agent normally used in the cosmetic field, and in particular antibacterial agents such as octopirox and triclosan, keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid, lactic acid or glycolic acid, essential oils, vitamins such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin PP (niacinamide) , vitamin B3 (panthenol) and their derivatives.
  • the composition according to the invention is packaged in an appropriate aerosol container pressurized with the aid of the abovementioned propellant .
  • composition of the invention is particularly suitable for shaving the skin, for example of the face or the legs.
  • the subject of the invention is also a method of shaving consisting in applying to the surface of the skin to be shaved a composition as defined above and then in shaving the hair by means of a razor.
  • the composition of the invention is generally provided in the form of a gel.
  • the composition is applied to the skin (in particular the skin of the face) , preferably as a thick layer, and then the hands are moistened and the face is massaged with the wet hands. It is possible to optionally wet the hands again and to again massage the face. The shaving is then carried out, and the face is finally rinsed.
  • Another method consists in first wetting the skin, and then in applying the composition to the wet skin and massaging the face, after having wetted the hands or otherwise, and finally in shaving the body hair by means of a razor.
  • the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic method for shaving the skin, consisting in wetting the skin, in applying to the skin the composition as defined above, in massaging and then in shaving the body hair by means of a razor.
  • the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic method for shaving the skin, consisting in applying to the skin the composition as defined above, in wetting the hands, in massaging the face with the wet hands, and then in shaving the body hair by means of a razor.
  • Example 1 Foaming heating composition

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Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition packaged in aerosol form comprising in an anhydrous medium at least one exothermic metal salt and at least one propellant. The composition may be used in particular for shaving the skin.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION WITH A HEATING EFFECT IN AEROSOL
FORM
The subject of the present invention is an anhydrous cosmetic composition, in particular a shaving composition, comprising at least one propellant and a metal salt, and the uses of the said composition in the cosmetic field, in particular for shaving.
Commercially available shaving products in aerosol form are generally provided in the form of shaving foams and of self -foaming gels.
The applicant has found, surprisingly, that it was possible to improve the shaving of body hair by providing a foaming cosmetic composition with a heating effect.
Accordingly, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition packaged as an aerosol, comprising, in an anhydrous medium, at least one exothermic metal salt, at least one polyol and at least one propellant. The composition of the invention is exothermic, that is to say that it has a heating effect and therefore that the user feels heating during the application of the said composition to wet or moistened skin. It is a composition whose temperature in the presence of water (the water added during use or alternatively the water present in the skin) can increase by several degrees (one to twenty degrees) instantly. This heating effect will make it possible to soften and/or make supple the hair of the skin and to thus promote the shaving efficiency and also allow opening of the pores of the skin and therefore better cleansing of the skin.
The composition according to the invention consists of an anhydrous medium. The expression "anhydrous" is understood here to mean a practically anhydrous medium, that is to say generally comprising less than 6% by weight of water, preferably less than 4% by weight of water, and better still less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. It is preferably completely anhydrous and therefore free of water.
The composition of the invention being a cosmetic composition and therefore intended for topical application, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, the mucous membranes and/or keratin fibres.
The present invention relates to a method of shaving consisting in applying to the skin a composition as defined above.
Propellant
The propellant may or may not be soluble in the composition.
The propellant is preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbons and halogenated volatile hydrocarbons. The boiling point of the propellant preferably varies from -20 to 4O0C. The propellants which can be used according to the invention are chosen from aliphatic C4-C6 hydrocarbons such as n-pentane, isopentane, neopentane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof. More preferably, an isobutane/butane/propane mixture will be used.
The propellant is preferably present in concentrations ranging from 1 to 20% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Exothermic metal salts
The metal salts used in the present invention are salts having exothermic properties, that is to say which release heat when they are moistened. They are chosen in particular from alkaline-earth metal salts, magnesium salts and mixtures thereof.
As alkaline-earth metal salts, there may be mentioned in particular calcium salts and, more especially, calcium halides such as calcium iodide, chloride and bromide. Calcium chloride is preferably used.
As magnesium salts, magnesium sulphate may be mentioned in particular. It is also possible to use a mixture of several salts .
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the exothermic metal salt is chosen from magnesium sulphate, calcium chloride and mixtures thereof .
The quantity of metal salt(s) may range for example from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight and even better from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Polyols
The composition of the invention contains at least one polyol because the polyols supplement the exothermic action of the salts. The polyols, may be chosen in particular from polyols having at least 2 hydroxyl groups and at least 3 carbon atoms, such as glycerine, diglycerine, and the glycols such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols having a molecular weight of less than 600, such as PEG-8 (or polyethylene 400) , the sugars such as sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
As polyols, glycerine, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, PEG-8 and mixtures thereof are preferably used.
The quantity of polyol (s) depends of the quantity of salts present in the composition and the heating effect desired. It may range for example from 0.5 to 80% by weight, preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, even better from 10 to 70% by weight and better still from 20 to 65% by weight and better still from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the polyol (s) represents at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight and better, at least 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Hydrophilic silica
The composition may contain one or more hydrophilic silicas. The quantity of hydrophilic silica (s) may range for example from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight and even better from 1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The expression "hydrophilic silica" is understood to mean, in the present application, both pure hydrophilic silicas and particles coated with hydrophilic silica.
The hydrophilic silicas which may be used in the composition of the invention are preferably amorphous, and they may be of pyrogenic origin or of precipitated origin. They are generally in pulverulent form.
The pyrogenic silicas are obtained by pyrolysis in a continuous flame at 10000C of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl4) in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen.
The precipitated silicas are obtained by reacting an acid with solutions of alkali metal silicates, preferably of sodium silicate.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrophilic silica is chosen from silicas having a specific surface area of 30 to 500 m2/g, and a mean particle size in numerical terms ranging from 3 to 50 nm. They are more particularly the hydrophilic silicas described in Tables (1) and (2) below, and mixtures thereof.
Table
Figure imgf000005_0001
Figure imgf000006_0001
Table
Figure imgf000006_0002
The hydrophilic silica used in the composition of the invention may also consist of a particle that is completely or partially coated with silica, in particular an inorganic particle that is completely or partially coated with silica, such as silica beads containing titanium oxide, which are marketed under the name TORAYCERAM S-IT® by the company Toray; silica- alumina microspheres containing titanium oxide (size: 105 μ) , marketed under the name Z-LIGHT-SPHERE W 1012® by the company Zeelan; particles of amorphous precipitated synthetic silica/titanium oxide (size: 106-500 μ) , which are marketed under the name NEOSIL PC20S® by the company Crosfield; fibres of nylon- 6-silica-titanium oxide (length 2 mm and thickness 2 deniers) , marketed under the name FIBERLON Y2® by the company Wackherr; silica coated with titanium dioxide and coated with porous silica (85/5/10) (size: 0.6 μ) , marketed under the name ACS -0050510® by the company SACI-CFPA; anatase nanotitanium oxide treated with alumina and silica at 40% in water (size: 60 nm, monodisperse) marketed under the name MIRASUN TIW 60® by the company Rhodia Chimie CRA; anatase nanotitanium oxide (60 nm) coated with silica/alumina/cerium IV 15/5/3 in aqueous dispersion at 32%, marketed under the name MIRASUN TIW 160® by the company Rhodia Chimie CRA; anatase nanotitanium oxide treated with alumina and silica (34/4.3/1.7) in aqueous dispersion at 40%, marketed under the name TIOVEIL AQ-N® by the company Uniqema,- nanotitanium oxide coated with silica (66/33)
(particle size of the titanium dioxide: 30 nm; thickness of silica: 4 nm) , marketed under the name
MAXLIGHT TS -04® by the company Nichimen Europe PLC; and nanotitanium oxide coated with silica (80/20) (titanium dioxide particle size: 30 nm; thickness of silica: 2 nm) marketed under the name MAXLIGHT TS-042® by the company Nichimen Europe PLC.
Pyrogenic silicas and in particular those marketed under the names AEROSIL (INCI name: silica) and in particular the one marketed under the name AEROSIL 200 by the company Degussa-Hϋls are preferably used as hydrophilic silica.
Hydrophobic silica
The composition may contain one or more hydrophobic silicas. The quantity of hydrophobic silica (s) may range for example from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight and even better from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The expression "hydrophobic silica" in the present application is understood to mean both pure hydrophobic silicas and particles coated with hydrophobic silica.
The hydrophobic silicas which may be used in the composition of the invention are preferably amorphous and of pyrogenic origin. They are preferably provided in pulverulent form.
The amorphous hydrophobic silicas of pyrogenic origin are obtained from hydrophilic silicas. The latter are obtained by pyrolysis in a continuous flame at 10000C of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl4) in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. They are then made hydrophobic by a treatment with halogenated silanes, alkoxysilanes or silazanes. The hydrophobic silicas differ from the starting hydrophilic silicas, inter alia, in a lower density of silanol groups and in a smaller adsorption of water vapour.
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrophobic silica is chosen from silicas having a specific surface area of 50 to 500 m2/g, and a mean particle size in numerical terms ranging from 3 to 50 nm. They are more particularly the hydrophobic silicas described in Table (3) below, and mixtures thereof .
Table (3)
Figure imgf000008_0001
The hydrophobic silica used in the composition of the invention may also consist of a particle that is completely or partially coated with silica, in particular an inorganic particle that is completely or partially coated with hydrophobic silica, such as pigments and metal oxides coated with hydrophobic silica. These particles may also have optical properties in the product and on the skin, for example they may have a mattifying or mildly bleaching effect.
As hydrophobic silica, use is preferably made of a hydrophobic pyrogenic silica that has been surface- treated with a dimethylsiloxane, such as that marketed under the name AEROSIL R974 (INCI name: Silica Dimethyl Silylate) by the company Degussa-Hϋls .
Anhydrous medium
The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an oily medium comprising at least one oil. The quantity of oil(s) may range for example from 5 to 80% by weight, preferably from 10 to 60% by weight, even better from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The expression "oil" is understood to mean a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (250C) .
As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned for example: - hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or alternatively, for example, sweet almond oil, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, gourd oil, coriander oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil (Prunus Armenica oil), macadamia oil, arara oil, oil from rUniqeman, avocado oil, the triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;
- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulae R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil or 660084 PCL-LIQUID from the company SYMRISE (mixture of cetylstearyl 2-ethylhexanoate and isopropyl myristate) , isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate
(or octyl palmitate) , 2-octyldodecyl stearate,
2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate,- hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates of fatty alcohols,- polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate,- and the pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate ;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile paraffin oils, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil;
- fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetearyl alcohol) , octyldodecanol , 2-butyloctanol , 2-hexyldecanol , 2-undecylpentadecanol , oleyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol;
- partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone- based fluorinated oils such as those described in the document JP-A-2-295912. As fluorinated oils, there may also be mentioned perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1 , 3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC PCI®" and "FLUTEC PC3®" by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals ; perfluoro-1 , 2-dimethylcyclobutane,- perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050 " and "PF 5060 " by the company 3M, or alternatively bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL " by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane sold under the name "MSX 45180" by the company 3M and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane,- perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl-perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052 " by the company 3M; - silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethyl- siloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane,- polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups which are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms,- phenylated silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl- dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethyl- phenylsiloxanes ; - mixtures thereof .
The expression "hydrocarbon oil" is understood to mean, in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
In addition to the oils indicated above, the composition of the invention may contain other fatty substances, such as fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-Cl-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; silicone gums (INCI name: Dimethiconol) alone or as a mixture with a silicone oil, such as the product marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, which is a mixture of Dimethiconol and Cyclopentasiloxane in the ratio 14.7/85.3 (dimethiconol) ; silicone elastomers such as those marketed under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu; waxes, for example mineral waxes, waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, waxes of plant origin, hydrogenated oils that are concrete at 250C, fatty esters and glycerides that are concrete at 250C, synthetic waxes such as polymethylene wax, silicone waxes,- and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the composition may comprise at least one foaming surfactant chosen from nonionic, ionic, in particular anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic foaming surfactants.
The nonionic foaming surfactants may be chosen in particular from alkyl polyglucosides (APG) , oxyalkylenated glycerol esters, oxyalkylenated sugar esters, and mixtures thereof.
1) As alkyl polyglucosides, use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a glucoside group preferably comprising 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units. The alkyl polyglucosides may be chosen for example from decyl glucoside (C9/C11 alkyl polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product marketed under the name Mydol 10 by the company Kao Chemicals or the product marketed under the name Plantacare 2000 UP by the company Cognis; caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711 by the company Cognis, lauryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP by the company Cognis; cocoglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP by the company Cognis; caprylyl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP by the company Cognis; and mixtures thereof .
2) The oxyalkylenated glycerol esters are in particular the polyoxyethylenated derivatives of esters of glyceryl and of a fatty acid and of their hydrogenated derivatives. These oxyalkylenated glycerol esters may be chosen for example from hydrogenated and oxyethylenated glyceryl esters of fatty acids such as PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate marketed under the name Rewoderm LI-S 80 by the company Goldschmidt; oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoates such as PEG- 7 glyceryl cocoate marketed under the name Tegosoft GC by the company Goldschmidt, and PEG- 30 glyceryl cocoate marketed under the name Rewoderm LI -63 by the company Goldschmidt; and mixtures thereof. 3) The oxyalkylenated sugar esters are in particular polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty acid esters of sugars. These oxyalkylenated sugar esters may be chosen for example from oxyethylenated glucose esters such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate marketed under the name Glucamate DOE 120 by the company Amerchol .
The anionic foaming surfactants may be chosen in particular from the anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin or of silk proteins, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, carboxylates, sulphosuccinates, amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, alkyl sulphoacetates, polypeptides, the anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucoside, and mixtures thereof.
1) The anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin are hydrolysates of protein with a hydrophobic group, it being possible for the said hydrophobic group to be naturally present in the protein or to be added by the reaction of the protein and/or the protein hydrolysate with a hydrophobic compound. The proteins are of plant origin or are derived from silk, and the hydrophobic group may be in particular a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. As anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin, there may be mentioned more particularly the hydrolysates of apple, wheat, soybean or oat proteins comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and their salts. The alkyl chain may be in particular a lauryl chain and the salt may be a sodium, potassium and/or ammonium salt.
Accordingly, as protein hydrolysates with a hydrophobic group, there may be mentioned for example the salts of the hydrolysates of silk protein modified with lauric acid, such as the product marketed under the name KAWA SILK by the company Kawaken; the salts of the hydrolysates of wheat protein modified with lauric acid, such as the potassium salt marketed under the name Aminofoam W OR by the company Croda (INCI name: Potassium lauroyl wheat aminoacids) and the sodium salt marketed under the name PROTEOL LW 30 by the company Seppic (INCI name: sodium lauroyl wheat aminoacids) ; the salts of the hydrolysates of oat protein comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and more especially the salts of the hydrolysates of oat protein modified with lauric acid, such as the sodium salt marketed under the name PROTEOL OAT (30% aqueous solution) by the company Seppic (INCI name: Sodium lauroyl oat aminoacids) ; the salts of the hydrolysates of apple protein, comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as the sodium salt marketed under the name PROTEOL APL (30% hydroglycolic solution) by the company Seppic (INCI name: Sodium Cocoyl Apple amino acids) . Mention may also be made of the mixture of lauroyl amino acids (aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, alanine) neutralized with sodium N-methylglycinate, marketed under the name PROTEOL SAV 50 S by the company Seppic (INCI name: Sodium Cocoyl amino acids) .
2) As phosphates and alkyl phosphates, mention may be made for example of the monoalkyl phosphates and the dialkyl phosphates, such as the lauryl monophosphate marketed under the name MAP 20 " by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid, mixture of mono- or diester (diester predominantly) marketed under the name CRAFOL AP- 31 by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and diester of octylphosphoric acid marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-200 by the company Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated (7 moles of EO) phosphoric acid monoester and diester of 2-butyloctanol, marketed under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER® by the company Condea, the potassium or triethanolamine salt of (Ci2-Ci3) monoalkyl phosphate marketed under the references
ARLATONE MAP 230K-40® and ARLATONE MAP 230T-60® by the company Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate marketed under the name DERMALCARE MAP XC-99/090 by the company Rhodia Chimie, and potassium cetylphosphate marketed under the name ARLATONE MAP 160K by the company
Uniqema .
3) As carboxylates, there may be mentioned:
The amidoether carboxylates (AEC) , such as sodium lauryl amidoether carboxylate (3 EO) marketed under the name AKYPO FOAM 30® by the company Kao Chemicals .
The polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts, such as the oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (C12-14-16 65/25/10) marketed under the name AKYPO SOFT 45 NV® by the company Kao Chemicals, the polyoxyethylenated and carboxymethylated fatty acids of olive oil origin marketed under the name OLIVEM 400 by the company BIOLOGIA E TECNOLOGIA, the oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium tridecyl ether carboxylate marketed under the name NIKKOL ECTD- 6NEX® by the company Nikkol .
The salts of fatty acids having a C6 to C22 alkyl chain, neutralized with an organic or inorganic base, which constitute soaps. The fatty acid salt or soap is obtained from a fatty acid and a base, the fatty acid comprising a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl chain having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms. The bases (also called saponification agents) completely or partially neutralize the fatty acids. The bases which may be used to obtain the salts may be for example inorganic bases such as alkali metal hydroxides (sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide) , alkaline- earth metal hydroxides (magnesium hydroxide) or ammonium hydroxide, or alternatively organic bases such as triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine. The fatty acid may be chosen in particular from Cio to C24 , and in particular Ci2-Ci8, fatty acids, and in particular lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid and mixtures thereof.
4) As amino acid derivatives, there may be mentioned in particular the alkali metal salts of amino acids, such as: sarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate marketed under the name SARKOSYL NL 97® by the company Ciba or marketed under the name ORAMIX L 30 by the company Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate marketed under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate marketed under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN® by the company
Nikkol ; alaninates, such as sodium N- lauroyl -N-methyl amidopropionate marketed under the name SODIUM NIKKOL ALANINATE LN 30® by the company Nikkol, or marketed under the name ALANONE ALE by the company Kawaken, N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine triethanolamine marketed under the name ALANONE ALTA by the company Kawaken; glutamates, such as triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT- 12® by the company Ajinomoto, triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate marketed under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT- 12® by the company Ajinomoto; aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N- lauroyl aspartate/triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate marketed under the name ASPARACK by the company Mitsubishi; glycine derivatives (glycinates) , such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate marketed under the names AMILITE GCS-12® and AMILITE GCK 12 by the company Ajinomoto; citrates such as oxyethylenated citric monoester of coconut alcohols (9 moles) , marketed under the name WITCONOL EC 1129 by the company Goldschmidt; - galacturonates such as sodium dodecyl
D-galactoside uronate marketed by the company Soliance.
5) As sulphosuccinates, there may be mentioned for example oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl alcohol monosulphosuccinate (Ci2/Ci4 70/30) marketed under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL®, REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4® by the company Witco, the disodium salt of a hemisulphosuccinate of Ci2-Ci4 alcohols marketed under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulphosuccinate marketed under the name
STANDAPOL SH 135® by the company Cognis, oxyethylenated
(5 EO) lauryl amide monosulphosuccinate marketed under the name LEBON A- 5000® by the company Sanyo, the oxyethylenated (10 EO) disodium salt of lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate marketed under the name REWOPOL SB
CS 50 " by the company Witco, ricinoleic monoethanolamide monosulphosuccinate marketed under the name REWODERM S
1333® by the company Witco. It is also possible to use polydimethylsiloxane sulphosuccinates such as disodium PEG- 12 dimethicone sulphosuccinate marketed under the name MACKANATE-DC30 by the company Mac Intyre .
6) As alkyl sulphates, there may be mentioned for example triethanolamine lauryl sulphate (INCI name: TEA- lauryl sulfate) such as the product marketed by the company Huntsman under the name EMPICOL TL40 FL or that marketed by the company Cognis under the name TEXAPON T42, which products are in aqueous solution at 40%. Mention may also be made of ammonium lauryl sulphate (CFTA name: Ammonium lauryl sulfate) such as the product marketed by the company Huntsman under the name EMPICOL AL 30FL which is in aqueous solution at 30%.
7) As alkyl ether sulphates, there may be mentioned for example sodium lauryl ether sulphate (INCI name: sodium laureth sulfate) such as that marketed under the names TEXAPON N40 and TEXAPON AOS 225 UP by the company Cognis or such as that marketed under the name EMPICOL ESB 3/FL3 by the company Huntsman, ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (INCI name: ammonium laureth sulfate) such as that marketed under the name STANDAPOL EA- 2 by the company Cognis.
8) As sulphonates, there may be mentioned for example alpha-olefin sulphonates such as sodium (Ci4-I6) alpha-olefin sulphonate marketed under the name BIO-TERGE AS-400 by the company Stepan, marketed under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE® and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12 by the company Witco or marketed under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG® by the company Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulphonate marketed under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 30® by the company Clariant; linear alkyl aryl sulphonates such as sodium xylene sulphonate marketed under the names MANROSOL SXS30®, MANROSOL SXS40®, MANROSOL SXS93® by the company Manro .
9) As isethionates, there may be mentioned acyl isethionates such as sodium cocoyl isethionate, such as the product marketed under the name J0RDAP0N CI P" by the company Jordan .
10) As taurates, there may be mentioned the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyl taurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PATE® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyl taurates such as sodium N-cocoyl N-methyl taurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF® by the company Clariant or marketed under the name NIKKOL CMT- 30 -T0 by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl methyl taurate marketed under the name NIKKOL PMT" by the company Nikkol .
11) The anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides may be in particular glycerol citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides. There may be mentioned for example the sodium salt of cocoyl polyglucoside (1.4) tartaric ester, marketed under the name EUCAROL AGE-ET® by the company Cesalpinia, the disodium salt of cocoyl polyglucoside (1.4) sulphosuccinic ester, marketed under the name ESSAI 512 MP by the company Seppic, the sodium salt of cocoyl polyglucoside (1.4) citric ester marketed under the name EUCAROL AGE-EC® by the company Cesalpinia. The amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants may be chosen for example from betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkyl amphoacetates and mixtures thereof . 1) As betaines, there may be mentioned in particular alkylbetaines such as for example cocobetaine such as the product marketed under the name DEHYTON AB-3θ" by the company Cognis, laurylbetaine such as the product marketed under the name GENAGEN KB by the company Clariant, oxyethylenated (10 EO) laurylbetaine, such as the product marketed under the name LAURYLETHER (10 EO) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica, oxyethylenated stearylbetaine (10 EO) such as the product marketed under the name STEARYLETHER (10 EO) BETAINE0 by the company Shin Nihon Rica.
Among the N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, there may be mentioned for example cocamidopropylbetaine marketed under the name LEBON 2000 HG by the company Sanyo, or marketed under the name EMPIGEN BB® by the company Albright & Wilson, lauramidopropylbetaine marketed under the name REWOTERIC AMB12P® by the company Witco.
2) As sultaines, there may be mentioned hydroxylsultaines, such as cocamidopropyl- hydroxysultaine such as the product marketed under the name REWOTERIC AM CAS by the company Golschmidt- Degussa, or the product marketed under the name CROSULTAINE C- 5O0 by the company Croda . 3) As alkyl polyaminocarboxylates (APAC) , there may be mentioned sodium cocoyl polyaminocarboxylate marketed under the name AMPHOLAK 7 CX/C® and AMPHOLAK 7 CX by the company Akzo Nobel, sodium stearyl polyamidocarboxylate marketed under the name AMPHOLAK 7 TX/C by the company Akzo Nobel, sodium carboxymethyloleylpolypropylamine marketed under the name AMPHOLAK XO7/C0 by the company Akzo Nobel.
4) As alkyl amphoacetates, there may be mentioned for example N-disodium N-cocoyl -N-carboxymethoxyethyl- N-carboxymethylethylenediamine (INCI name: disodium cocoamphodiacetate) such as the product marketed under the name MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRE NP® by the company Rhodia, N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N- carboxymethylethylenediamine (INCI name: sodium cocamphoacetate) , sodium cocoamphohydroxypropyl sulphonate marketed under the name MIRANOL CSE by the company Rhodia.
The foaming surfactant may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight .
Additives
The composition may further contain one or more other additives, in particular lipophilic additives, which are conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.
There may be mentioned in particular exothermic compounds other than salts and polyols, such as for example zeolites which are silicoaluminates . As zeolites, there may be mentioned in particular activated zeolites, and for example the zeolites A, the zeolites X such as those marketed by the companies Fluka and Union Carbide, the zeolites MAP as described in the document EP-A-384070, the activated zeolites A as described in the document EP-A-187912 and in particular those marketed under the name ADVERA 401N ET ADVERA 402N by the company PQ Corporation.
As additives, mention may also be made of perfumes; preservatives; antioxidants; sequestrants,- fillers; colorants, cosmetic or dermatological active agents, or mixtures thereof. These adjuvants are used in the usual proportions for cleansing and/or care compositions, and for example from 0.01 to 10% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants should be of a nature such that and used in quantities such that they do not disrupt the properties sought for the composition of the invention.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention contains, as fillers, exfoliating particles which will allow scrubbing of the skin. As exfoliating particles, use may be made of the exfoliating or scrubbing particles of mineral, plant or organic origins. Thus, it is possible to use for example polyethylene beads or powder, such as those marketed under the name Microthene MN 727 or Microthene MN 710-20 by the company Equistar or such as the powder marketed under the name Gotalene 120 Incolore 2 by the company Dupont ; nylon particles such as those marketed by the company Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 EXD NAT COS; fibres such as polyamide fibres, such as those marketed by the company Utexbel under the name PULPE POLYAMIDE 12185 TAILLE 0,3 MM, polyvinylchloride powder; pumice stone (INCI name: pumice) such as pumice 3/B from Eyraud; the ground shells of fruit kernels such as the ground products of apricot kernels or of walnut shells,- sawdust; glass beads,- alumina (aluminium oxide) (INCI name: Alumina) such as the product marketed under the name Dermagrain 900 by the company Marketech International, sugar crystals; beads which melt during application to the skin, such as for example the spheres based on mannitol and cellulose which are marketed under the names Unispheres by the company Induchem, capsules based on agar which are marketed under the names Primasponge by the company Cognis, and the spheres based on jojoba esters which are marketed under the names Floraspheres by the company Floratech; and mixtures thereof . The composition according to the invention may also contain other fillers such as, for example, talc, modified or unmodified starch, and in particular starches esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride and more particularly "Aluminium Starch octenyl succinate" such as the product marketed by the company National Starch under the name Dry- Flo.
These fillers (exfoliants and the like) may be present in a quantity ranging for example from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, even better from 1 to 10% and better still from 2 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
As active agents, there may be mentioned any care or cleansing active agent normally used in the cosmetic field, and in particular antibacterial agents such as octopirox and triclosan, keratolytic agents such as salicylic acid, lactic acid or glycolic acid, essential oils, vitamins such as vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin PP (niacinamide) , vitamin B3 (panthenol) and their derivatives. The composition according to the invention is packaged in an appropriate aerosol container pressurized with the aid of the abovementioned propellant .
The composition of the invention is particularly suitable for shaving the skin, for example of the face or the legs.
The subject of the invention is also a method of shaving consisting in applying to the surface of the skin to be shaved a composition as defined above and then in shaving the hair by means of a razor.
The composition of the invention is generally provided in the form of a gel. During use, the composition is applied to the skin (in particular the skin of the face) , preferably as a thick layer, and then the hands are moistened and the face is massaged with the wet hands. It is possible to optionally wet the hands again and to again massage the face. The shaving is then carried out, and the face is finally rinsed. Another method consists in first wetting the skin, and then in applying the composition to the wet skin and massaging the face, after having wetted the hands or otherwise, and finally in shaving the body hair by means of a razor. Accordingly, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic method for shaving the skin, consisting in wetting the skin, in applying to the skin the composition as defined above, in massaging and then in shaving the body hair by means of a razor. The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic method for shaving the skin, consisting in applying to the skin the composition as defined above, in wetting the hands, in massaging the face with the wet hands, and then in shaving the body hair by means of a razor. These methods are generally followed by a skin rinsing step.
The example below is given by way of nonlimiting illustration in order to better demonstrate the characteristics of the invention. The quantities are given therein in % by weight. Example 1: Foaming heating composition
- PEG- 8 64 %
- Glycerine 10 % - Hydrophobic silica (AEROSIL 2974) 0 . 5 %
- Hydrophilic silica (AEROSIL 200) 0 . 5 %
- Magnesium sulphate and water mixture (98/2) 20 %
- Cocoamidopropylbetaine 5 % - Isobutane/butane/propane mixture (56/24/20) 3 %

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition packaged in aerosol form comprising in an anhydrous medium at least one exothermic metal salt, at least one polyol and at least one propellant.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the exothermic metal salt is chosen from alkaline-earth metal salts, magnesium salts and mixtures thereof.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the exothermic metal salt is chosen from magnesium sulphate, calcium chloride and mixtures thereof .
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the quantity of exothermic metal salt(s) ranges from 0.1 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol is chosen from polyols having at least 2 hydroxyl groups and at least 3 carbon atoms, polyethylene glycols having a molecular weight of less than 600, sugars and mixtures thereof .
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol is chosen from glycerine, diglycerine, and the glycols such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, PEG- 8 (or polyethylene 400), sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol is chosen from glycerine, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, PEG- 8 and mixtures thereof.
8 Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the quantity of the polyol ranges from 0.5 to 80% by weight, preferably from 5 to 75% by weight, even better from 10 to 70% by weight and better still from 20 to 65% by weight and better still from 30 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol(s) represents at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight and better, at least 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one hydrophilic silica and at least one hydrophobic silica.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the propellant is chosen from aliphatic C4-C6 hydrocarbons such as n-pentane, isopentane, neopentane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures thereof .
12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of propellant ranges from 1 to 20% by weight and more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one foaming surfactant chosen from nonionic, ionic, in particular anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic foaming surfactants .
14. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the foaming surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight.
15. Cosmetic method for shaving the keratin materials of the skin, consisting in applying to the keratin materials a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14 and then shaving the skin.
PCT/EP2009/054826 2008-04-25 2009-04-22 Cosmetic composition with a heating effect in aerosol form WO2009130246A1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0852813A FR2930433A1 (en) 2008-04-25 2008-04-25 COSMETIC COMPOSITION HAVING HEATING EFFECT IN AEROSOL.
FR0852813 2008-04-25

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US10517805B2 (en) 2015-12-31 2019-12-31 L'oréal Cosmetic compositions having mechanically activated warming enhancement
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WO2016121851A1 (en) * 2015-01-30 2016-08-04 東洋エアゾール工業株式会社 Aerosol product for forming warming cream composition
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JPWO2016121851A1 (en) * 2015-01-30 2017-07-20 東洋エアゾール工業株式会社 Aerosol products for forming warm cream compositions
US10653226B2 (en) 2015-01-30 2020-05-19 Toyo Aerosol Industry Co., Ltd. Aerosol product for forming warming cream composition
US10517805B2 (en) 2015-12-31 2019-12-31 L'oréal Cosmetic compositions having mechanically activated warming enhancement
DE102020200640A1 (en) 2020-01-21 2021-07-22 Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Novel shaving aids

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