FR2967909A1 - METHOD OF SKIN SHAVING USING AMPHIPHILIC AMINOPOLYORGANOSILOXANES; SOAP COMPOSITIONS CONTAINING SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method of shaving the skin, in particular of the skin of the face of men using a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one aminopolyorganosiloxane amphiphile and more particularly a polyglycolic and / or polyoxyalkylenated amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane The present invention also relates to a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium a) at least one amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane and more particularly a polyglycolic and / or polyoxyalkylenated amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane; b) at least one C -C fatty acid salt or a mixture of C -C fatty acid salts. The present invention also relates to a skin cleaning method of applying to the surface a composition as defined above followed by rinsing with water.

Description

METHOD OF SKIN SHAVING USING AMPHIPHILIC AMINOPOLYORGANOSILOXANES; The present invention relates to a process for shaving the skin, in particular the skin of the face of men using a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one aminopolyorganosiloxane amphiphile and more particularly a polyglycolic amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane and / or polyoxyalkylenated formula (1) or (II) that will be defined later.

The present invention also relates to a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium a) at least one amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane and more particularly a polyglycolic and / or polyoxyalkylenated polyglycolic and / or polyoxyalkylenated amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane of formula (1) which will be defined later . ; b) at least one C 6 -C 20 fatty acid salt or a mixture of C 6 -C 20 fatty acid salts. The present invention also relates to a method for cleaning human keratin materials and in particular the skin consisting in applying to the surface a composition as defined above followed by rinsing with water. The beard of an adult man comprises on average from 8000 to 25000 hairs. Shaving must be daily, especially in the morning, since the beard grows about 0.4 mm in 24 hours. If we analyze the residues of a shave, we observe 500/0 of hairs and 500/0 of dead cells. The passage of the blade therefore has two simultaneous actions: cut the hair and exfoliate the cutaneous surface.

But shaving is traumatic for the skin and there is a need to have cosmetic compositions capable of preparing the skin for shaving and thus to facilitate it. The present invention aims precisely to provide a shaving method for swelling the hair, to reduce its rigidity to facilitate the passage of the blade, to reduce the bending forces of the hair during shaving.

4o It has already been proposed in EP0376820B1 to use acyloxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes to reduce the "fire" of the razor by their lubricating power, to make the skin softer and to give the compositions that contain them a certain comfort. However, the deposition of the product on the skin and the swelling of the hair obtained are not fully satisfactory.

Aminopolyorganosiloxanes with free amino function are known in the field of washing and / or conditioning hair compositions, in particular in the patent applications US20030224954, EP1531783 and EP1438947. This type of aminopolyorganosiloxane is unsuitable for shaving formulations generally containing fatty acid soaps because they tend to cause yellowing of the composition during storage.

Amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxanes are known from applications DE102004137951 and WO02 / 092666 as softening agents for textile materials and in application WO2008 / 011347 as hair conditioners.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that by using aminopolyorganosiloxane amphiphiles in a skin shaving composition, one obtained on the one hand a better deposit on the skin and an equivalent swelling of the hair to facilitate shaving during the transition. of the razor blade. On the other hand, the Applicant has found that these same aminopolyorganosiloxanes introduced into a shaving composition made it possible to obtain a better storage stability: substantial reduction or even disappearance of the yellowing phenomenon.

This discovery is the basis of the present invention. The present invention relates to a method for shaving the skin, in particular the skin of the face of men, comprising at least the following steps: a) a composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one Aminopolyorganosiloxane amphiphilic; b) shaving the hair with a razor.

Preferably, the skin area thus treated is massed for a time generally ranging from 20 seconds to 3 minutes, then the hair is shaved and rinsed with water after the shaving step.

The subject of the present invention is also the use of at least one amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane and more particularly an aminopolyorganosiloxane of formula (1) in a cosmetic composition, with the aim of improving the stability and / or the deposition of the composition on the skin.

The present invention also relates to a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium c) at least one amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane; D) at least one C 6 -C 20 fatty acid salt or a mixture of C 6 -C 20 fatty acid salts.

The Applicant has also discovered that these same soap-based compositions can also constitute products for cleaning the keratinous materials and more particularly the skin (body, face, eyes) having good detergent properties, good cosmetic properties (softness at The present invention also relates to a method of cleaning the skin comprising applying to the surface of the skin a composition as defined above followed by rinsing with water. 'water.

The term "aminopolyorganosiloxane" means any polyorganosiloxane comprising a polyorganosiloxane main chain and at least one group comprising at least one primary, secondary or ternary amine which may be grafted onto the silicone main chain or located on one or both ends of said polyorganosiloxane; chain. The term "aminopolyorganosiloxane amphiphile" means any aminopolyorganosiloxane comprising at least one hydrophobic portion and at least one hydrophilic portion.

In particular, the hydrophobic portion may comprise the silicone main chain and optionally at least one fatty hydrocarbon chain (comprising at least 8 carbon atoms) which may be located on at least one grafted group on the silicone main chain or located on one of the or both ends of said chain; said group may also comprise at least one primary, secondary or ternary amine.

In particular, the hydrophilic portion may be located on at least one grafted group on the main silicone chain or located on one or both ends of said chain; said group may also comprise at least one primary, secondary or ternary amine.

In particular, the hydrophobic portion consisting of a fatty hydrocarbon chain and the hydrophilic portion may be present on the same group grafted onto the silicone main chain or located on one or both ends of said chain; said group may also comprise at least one primary, secondary or ternary amine.

By "cosmetically acceptable medium" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness, redness), which may divert the consumer from using this composition.

AMINOPOLYORGANOSILOXANES Preferably, the hydrophilic groups of the aminopolyorganosiloxane amphiphiles of the invention are chosen from (i) polyols and in particular (i) polyglycols and (ii) polyoxyalkylenated groups.

More particularly, the amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxanes according to the invention are chosen from those described in patent applications DE102004137951 and WO02 / 092666 containing amino groups substituted in part by at least one radical of formula 50 T-CH2-CHOH-CH2- (a) wherein T denotes a nonionic surfactant residue of the formula: R1- (OX) q-OH (13) wherein R1 denotes a C8-C24 hydrocarbon radical; X is C2-C4 alkylene; and q is an integer of 4 to 50 (preferably 4 to 30, more preferably 4 to 20); with at least 50% of the X groups denote ethylene (preferably 80% and more preferably 100% of the X groups denote ethylene) and said substituted amino groups are connected to the silicone atoms of the silicone backbone by alkylene bridges or mono-bridges. or oligo- (alkyleneamino) alkylenes; in an average ratio of 1.5 radicals of formula (a) per aminoalkyl, amino-mono- or oligo- (alkyleneamino) alkyl group bonded to a silicon atom.

The radicals R 1 are preferably aliphatic or alkylaromatic radicals C 8 -C 18 and more preferably C 11 -C 16.

When R 1 denotes an aliphatic group, it is preferably saturated. In this case, R10 is the residue of a saturated primary aliphatic alcohol preferably C9-C18 and more preferably C11-C18.

When R 1 denotes an alkylaromatic group, R 10 is preferably a residue of mono or dialkylphenol, for example a residue of di-t-butylphenol, pisooctylphenol or p-nonylphenol. The surfactant TH corresponding to the formula (R) preferably has an HLB greater than or equal to 7, more preferably from 7 to 17 and even more particularly from 8 to 16.5 and even more preferably from 9 to 16.

These amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxanes have a molecular weight of between 1500 and 300000 g / mol, preferably 1500 to 150 000 g / mol.

More particularly, the amphiphilic aminopolyoganosiloxanes in accordance with the invention correspond to the following formula (1): ## STR1 ## in which R 1, R 2 and R 3, which are identical or different, denote a linear C 1 -alkyl -C20, linear or branched and preferably simultaneously denote the group -CH3 R, identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl group; a hydroxyl group or a linear or branched C1-C20 alkoxy group and preferably OH or linear C1-C4 alkoxy and more particularly OH or methoxy; R 'and R ", which may be identical or different, denote a C1-C5 alkylene, linear or branched, the radicals A, which may be identical or different, denote hydroxyl or a grouping

-O [R4 O ~ R5

in which R4 denotes a linear or branched C2-C4 alkylene radical and preferably -CH2CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH3 or the group CH2-CH-CH2 is CH3 R5 denotes a linear or branched C8-C18 alkyl radical and more particularly linear C11-C18 alkyl; n and m vary so that the weight average molecular weight of the polyorganopolysiloxane is between 1500 and 300000, preferably 1500 to 150000; q varies from 4 to 50, preferably from 4 to 30 and more particularly from 4 to 20.

More particularly, an aminopolyorganosiloxane having the following structure (b) will be used: ## STR1 ## in which R denotes OH or a methoxy radical the radicals A simultaneously denote a group of formula: ## STR2 ## and n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight is 130,000 g / mol, as the product under the formula INCI name: TRIDECETH-9-PGAMODIMETHICONE and sold under the trade name "SILCARE s SEA ®" by the company CLARIANT.

The amphiphilic aminopolyoganosiloxanes according to the invention may also be chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (II): ## STR2 ## in which : R "', which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C 8 -C 20 alkyl group and more particularly a C 13 -C 15 alkyl radical; R 'and R ", which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C 1 -C 5 alkylene; n ranges from 25 to 100 and preferably from 50 to 80; m ranges from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 5.

Preferably, R 'denotes the group -CH2-CH2-CH2- or the group CH2-CH-CH2 CH3 R "denotes -CH2-CH2-

More particularly, an amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane having the following structure (a) will be used: CH 3 Si -O- (CH 2) n CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH

Where n is 12 to 14; n varies from 50 to 70 and m varies from 1 to 3, such as the product sold under the trade name "DC 8500 0" by Dow Corning. These amphilic aminosilicones are known and described in patent applications W003 / 066007 and WO2008 / 011347.

The aminopolyorganosiloxanes according to the invention are preferably present in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

ACYLOXYALKYL FUNCTIONAL POLYORGANOSILOXANES According to a particularly preferred form, an acyloxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxane chosen from

(i) the linear compounds corresponding to the following formula (1): ## STR1 ## in which: the radicals R6, which are identical or different, are chosen; among methyl, phenyl, OCOR9, hydroxyl, only one of the radicals R6 being OH; the radicals R 1, which are identical or different, are chosen from phenyl or methyl radicals, 600 mol% of all the R 6 and R radicals, is methyl; R8 is a linear or branched hydrocarbon divalent alkylene chain containing from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 and more particularly a trimethylene chain - (CH 2) 3 and methyl-2-trimethylene CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 CH3 s R9 is a C8-C20 alkyl or alkenyl radical; v is a number between 0 and 20 t is a number between 1 and 20 u is 0 or is equal to a number less than 0.5t, the sum t + u being between 1 and 20; (Ii) cyclic compounds having the following formula (2): wherein R7, R8, R9 have the same meanings given in formula (1) above; x is a number between 0 and 20, y is a number between 1 and 20, z is 0, or is less than 0.5y, where y + z is between 1 and 20.

The acyloxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes of formula (1) may optionally comprise CH 3 -Si-OH O 2/2 groups present in proportions of not more than 150% of the sum s + t + u.

Among the particularly preferred compounds used in accordance with the present invention, the compounds of formula (1) or (2) in which R 6 is methyl R 7 is methyl R 8 is - (CH 2) 3 - R 9 is C 12 H 25, C 14 H 29, C 16 H 33 C18H37, oleyl; v is between 1 and 30 t is between 5 and 16; R7 Si -O R $ OCO R9 Si (2) 40 u is from 0.5 to 4; x + y + z is between 3 and 10 inclusive.

These polyorganosoloxane acyloxyalkyl function can further improve the swelling of the hair.

The compounds of formula (2) are known and described in patent EP0376820I31. They are preferably present in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 30% and more particularly from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

More particularly, the polyorganosiloxanes containing stearate groups having the name INCI: DIMETHICONOL STEARATE, such as the following commercial products: "MIRASIL WAX S®" (Rhodia Inc.) "SILSENSE IWS SILICONE®" (Noveon Consumer Specialties, Lubrizol Advanced Materials, The subject of the present invention is also the use of the combination of (a) at least one amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane as defined above and (b) at least one functional polyorganosiloxane. acyloxyalkyl as defined above in a shaving composition, in order to facilitate the shaving of the hair in particular to swell the hair, to reduce its rigidity to facilitate the passage of the blade, to reduce the bending forces of the hair during the shave.

SALTS OF FATTY ACIDS (SOAP)

The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise at least one fatty acid or a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids neutralized with an alkaline agent such as organic bases such as alkanolamines (triethanolamine), mineral bases such as hydroxide of potassium or sodium hydroxide.

Among the fatty acids to be neutralized, mention may be made of lauric, oleic, coconut, myristic, palmitic, stearic or mixtures thereof.

The proportion of C 6 -C 20 fatty acid soap is preferably from 0.5 to 800% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions preferably comprise from 10 to 850/0 by weight of water. Additives

The shaving compositions according to the invention can be formulated as simple aqueous solutions which can be applied to the face just before shaving. They generally contain other cosmetic or dermatological ingredients selected for example from wetting agents for beards, skin conditioners such as vitamins A, C, E, aloes, allantoin, panthenol. , hydroxyacids, phospholipids, triglycerides, vegetable oils, amino acids), cleaning agents, emollients, moisturizers (glycerol, sorbitol, propylene glycol), thickening or gelling agents, propellants, self-foaming agents, perfumes, dyes, antioxidants, preservatives. They may contain other nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants.

According to one particular form of the invention, the shaving compositions can be in the form of a lotion, a cream, a mousse or a gel. Such compositions preferably comprise at least 60 to 950% of water, more preferably 70 to 900% of water relative to the total weight of the composition and 3 to 250% by weight in total amount. surfactant (s) and more preferably from 5 to 200/0 by weight.

Among the additional anionic surfactants that may be used for the invention, mention may also be made of oxyethylenated or non-oxyethylated carboxylates, alkyl sulphates, sulphonates, alkyl sulphoacetates, phosphates, polypeptides, alkyl polyglucoside anionic derivatives, and mixtures thereof. .

As carboxylates, there may be mentioned, for example: amido ether carboxylates (AEC), such as sodium lauryl amido ether carboxylate (3 EO) sold under the name AKYPO FOAM 300 by the company Kao Chemicals; polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acid salts, such as the oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium lauryl ether carboxylate (C12-14-16 65/25/10) sold under the name AKYPO SOFT 45 NVO by the company Kao Chemicals; polyoxyethylenated olive oil fatty acids and carboxymethyl, product sold under the name OLIVEM 4000 by Biologia E Tecnologia; the oxyethylenated (6 EO) sodium tri-decyl ether carboxylate sold under the name NIKKOL ECTD-6NEX 0 by the company Nikkol; acetates, such as the sodium 2- (2-hydroxyalkyloxy) acetate sold under the name BEAULIGHT SHAA by the company Sanyo;

As oxyethylenated or non-oxyethylated sulphates, mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (2.2 EO) sold under the name Sipon AOS 2250 by the company Cognis, and lauryl ether sulphate. ammonium (C12-14 70/30) (3 EO) sold under the name Sipon LEA 3700 by Cognis, the alkyl (C12-C14) ether (9 EO) ammonium sulfate sold under the name RHODAPEX AB / 200 by the company Rhodia Chimie, the mixture of lauryl and oleyl ether sodium sulfate and magnesium marketed under the name EMPICOL BSD 52 by the company Albright & Wilson.

As sulphonates, mention may be made, for example, of (1) alpha-olefin sulphonates, such as sodium alpha-olefin sulphonate (C14-16) sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 by the names BIO-TERGE AS-400. and BIO-TERGE AS-400 denomination by Stepan, under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGEO and 50 SULFRAMINE AOS PH 120 by the company Witco, the secondary sodium olefin sulphonate marketed under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 300 by the company Clariant; (2) isethionates such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name JORDAPON Cl P® by the company Jordan, (3) taurates, such as the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PATEO denomination by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, such as sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF0 by the company Clariant or sold under the name NIKKOL CMT-30-TO 10 by the company Nikkol, palmitoyl methyltaurate, sodium marketed under the name NIKKOL PMTO by Nikkol.

As sulfosuccinates, mention may be made, for example, of oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl alcohol (C12 / C14 70/30) monosulfinate sold under the trade names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL® and REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 40 by the company Witco , the di-sodium salt of a hemi-sulfosuccinate of the C12-C14 alcohols, sold under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTEO by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the di-sodic oxyethylenated oleamide (2 EO) marketed under the name Standapol SH 1350; by the company Cognis, the oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauric amide mono-sulfosuccinate sold under the name LEBON A-50000 by the company Sanyo.

Phosphates that may be mentioned include, for example, monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl mono-phosphate sold under the name MAP 200 by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecyl phosphoric acid, a monoblend mixture. and di-ester (majority diester) marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-310 by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and octylphosphoric acid di-ester, sold under the name CRAFOL AP-200 by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and diester of ethoxylated 2-butyloctanol phophoric acid (7 moles of EO) sold under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER® by Condea.

As polypeptides (which are compounds obtained by condensation of a fatty chain on the cereal amino acids and in particular wheat and oats), mention may be made, for example, of the potassium salt of the hydrolysed wheat lauroyl protein marketed under the name AMINOFOAM W OR0 by the company Croda; triethanolamine salt of cocoyl hydrolysed soy protein, sold under the name MAY-TEIN SY0 by the company Maybrook 40; the sodium salt of lauroyl amino acids of oats, sold under the name PROTEOL OATO by the company Seppic; the collagen hydrolyzate grafted onto the coconut fatty acid, sold under the name GELIDERM 30000 by the company Deutsche Gelatine; soy proteins acylated with hydrogenated coconut acids sold under the name PROTEOL VS 220 by the company Seppic.

As anionic derivatives of alkyl polyglucosides, there may be mentioned in particular citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyl polyglucosides. Mention may be made, for example, of the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) tartaric ester, marketed under the name EUCAROL AGE-ET® by the company Cesalpinia; the sodium salt of sulphosuccinic ester of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4), sold under the name Test 512 MP® by the company Seppic; the sodium salt of citric ester of cocoyl polyglucoside (1,4) sold under the name EUCAROL AGE-EC® by Cesalpinia, the sodium lauryl polyglucoside ether carboxylate sold under the name PLANTAPON LGC SORB by the company Cognis.

The C 6 -C 24 alkyl ether sulfate salts comprising from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide groups, in particular the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, amine or amino alcohol salts, and more are preferably used. particularly the sodium salts and even more particularly the oxyethylenated (C 12 -C 14) alkyl ether sulphates having an average number of ethylene oxide groups of between 1 and 4 and more particularly Sodium Laureth Sulfate (CTFA name).

The amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants in accordance with the invention may be chosen from alkylbetaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates (APACs), alkylamphoacetates and mixtures thereof.

As alkylbetaines, mention may be made, for example, of cocobetaine such as the product sold under the name DEHYTON AB-300 by the company Cognis or the commercial products MIRATAINE BB / FLA from RHODIA or EMPIGEN BB / FL from Huntsman or the product marketed under the name GENAGEN KB® by the company Clariant; oxyethylenated laurylbetaine (10 EO), such as the product marketed under the name Laurylether (10 EO) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica; oxyethylenated stearylbetaine (10 EO), such as the product sold under the name Stearyleether (10 EO) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica.

Among the N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, mention may be made, for example, of cocamidopropyl betaine marketed under the name LEBON 2000 HG® by the company Sanyo, or under the name EMPIGEN BB® by the company Albright &Wilson; lauramidopropyl betaine marketed under the name REWOTERIC AMB12P0 by the company Witco.

As sultaines, there may be mentioned cocoylamidopropylhydroxy-sulfobetaine marketed under the name CROSULTAINE C-500 by the company Croda.

Alkyl polyaminocarboxylates (APAC) include sodium cocoylpolyaminocarboxylate, marketed under the name AMPHOLAK 7 CX / C®, and AMPHOLAK 7 CX® by Akzo Nobel; the sodium stearylpolyamidocarboxylate sold under the name AMPHOLAK 7 DUCE) by the company Akzo Nobel; sodium carboxymethylolpropylamine, marketed under the name AMPHOLAK 50 X07 / C0 by the company Akzo Nobel.

As alkylamphoacetates, mention may be made, for example, of N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-di-sodium (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate), such as the product marketed under the name MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRA NP® by the company Rhodia Chemistry; and N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate).

Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, alkylbetaines and even more preferably cocobétaine and more particularly cocobétaine in the form of 300/0 aqueous solution mixed with sodium chloride (INCI name: Cocobetaine (and)) will be used more particularly. Sodium Chloride) such as Huntsman's EMPIGEN BB / FL commercial product.

The compositions according to the invention may contain nonionic surfactants. These are well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, they can be chosen especially from fatty alcohols whose fatty chain preferably comprises from 8 to 2 carbon atoms; alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, fatty acids, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain preferably comprising from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and wherein the number of oxide groups is ethylene or propylene oxide preferably varies from 2 to 60 and the number of glycerol groups may range from 2 to 30. Mention may also be made of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide copolymers, ethylene oxide condensates and propylene on fatty alcohols; the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, the polyglycerolated fatty amides preferably having on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; the ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C6-C24) alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkyl (C6-C24) glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as alkyl (Clo-C14) amines or N-acyl (Clo-Cl4) -aminopropylmorpholine oxides; and their mixtures.

As alkylpolyglucosides, use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 units of saccharide. . As alkylpolyglucosides, mention may be made, for example, of decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / Cl-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 100 by the company Kao Chemicals, under the name PLANTAREN 2000 UP0 by the company Cognis, and the name ORAMIX NS 100 by the company Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 110 0 by the company Seppic; laurylglucoside, such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N0 and PLANTACARE 12000 by the company Cognis; and coco-glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP0 by Cognis.

The maltose derivatives are, for example, those described in document EP-A-566438, such as O-octanoyl-6'-D-maltose, or else 0-dodecanoyl-6'-D-maltose described in document FR-2739556.

Among the polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, mention may be made of polyglycerolated dodecanediol (3.5 moles of glycerol), a product manufactured under the name Chimexane NF® by the company Chimex.

The preferred nonionic surfactants are chosen from:

the fatty alcohols have the fatty chain is C 8 -C 20, more preferably the fatty chain of which is C 12 -C 18 such as, for example, myristic alcohol, lauric alcohol, stearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol;

polyoxyethylenated ethers of fatty alcohols, the fatty chain of which is C 8 -C 20, more preferably of which the fatty chain is C 12 -C 18 and which has from 2 to 60, more preferably from 2 to 30, oxide units; ethylene. Among these compounds, there may be mentioned for example 01eth-30, Steareth-21, Ceteth-20, Laureth-4, Laureth-23.

The compositions of the invention may additionally contain a gelling agent and for example contain at least one nonvolatile liquid hydrocarbon. The terms "volatile" and "liquid" mean that these materials are liquid at room temperature and have a boiling point above 200 ° C. Among these liquid hydrocarbons, mention may be made of mineral oils and branched aliphatic liquids. These liquids preferably have from 16 to 48 carbon atoms, more preferably from 20 to 40 carbon atoms and a kinetic viscosity (measured according to the ASTM D445 standard) of 5 to 100 cst and more preferably from 10 to 70 cst to 40 ° C. Preferred nonvolatile liquid hydrocarbons are selected from mineral oils having a kinetic viscosity of 10 to 70 cSt, hydrogenated polyisobutenes having a molecular weight of 320 to 420 and mixtures thereof. The non-volatile liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are preferably present at concentrations of less than or equal to 10% and preferably less than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions of the invention may also contain a water-soluble gelling agent or thickening agent to improve the consistency and stability of the gel or to adjust the viscosity.

Among these auxiliary gelling agents, mention may be made of hydroxyalkylcellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose or hydroxypropylcellulose (products sold respectively under the trade name NATROSOL or KLUCEL); copolymers of acrylic acid and polyallylsucrose (products sold under the trade name CARBOPOL); carboxymethylcellulose and cellulose methyl ether (products sold under the trade name METHOCEL); natural or synthetic gums, starches. The gelling agents or thickeners are preferably present at concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight and even more preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention may additionally contain a variety of conventional cosmetic ingredients to improve the aesthetic qualities and performance of these compositions.

The compositions according to the invention may also additionally contain a cationic conditioning polymer to improve the lubricity and feel of the skin after shaving. For example, the quaternary ammonium salts of hydroxyethylcellulose, such as Polyquaternium-10, Polyquaternium-24, may be mentioned. The following cationic polymers may also be mentioned: Polyquaternium 5 such as the product MERQUAT 5 sold by the company Calgon; Polyquaternium 6, such as the product SALCARE SC 30 marketed by CIBA, and the product Merquat 100 marketed by Calgon; Polyquaternium 7 such as the MERQUAT S, MERQUAT 2200 and MERQUAT 550 products marketed by the company CALGON, and the SALCARE SC 10 product marketed by the company CIBA; Polyquaternium 11 such as GAFQUAT 755, GAFQUAT 755N and GAFQUAT 734 products sold by ISP; Polyquaternium 15 such as the product ROHAGIT KF 720 F marketed by the company ROHM; Polyquaternium 16 such as the products LUVIQUAT FC905, LUVIQUAT FC370, LUVIQUAT HM552 and LUVIQUAT FC550 sold by the company BASF; Polyquaternium 22 such as the product Merquat 280 sold by the company Calgon; Polyquaternium 28 such as the product STYLEZE CC10 marketed by the company ISP; Polyquaternium 39 such as MERQUAT PLUS 3330 sold by Calgon; Polyquaternium 44 such as the product LUVIQUAT GARE marketed by BASF; Polyquaternium 46 such as the product LUVIQUAT HOLD marketed by BASF; Polyquaternium 47 such as the product MERQUAT 2001 marketed by Calgon.

It is also possible to use as cationic polymer cationic guars such as the product Jaguar marketed by Rhodia.

The conditioning cationic polymer or polymers are preferably present at concentrations ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Other additives may also be used in the compositions of the invention such as humectants such as sorbitol; emollients such as fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, decyl oleate, 2-ethyhexyl palmitate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate and Glyceryl Linoleate; propoxylated fatty ethers such as PPG-10 Cetyl Ether and PPG-11 Stearyl Ether; di- or triglycerides such as lecithin, capric / caprylic triglyceride mixture, PEG-10 Soy Sterol, vegetable oils. - Cooling agents and soothing agents such as menthol, aloe, allantoin, lanolin, bisabolol, hyaluronic acid; lubricants such as polyethylene glycols (ie PEG-14M, PEG-23M), fluorinated surfactants, silicones (ie dimethicone, dimethiconol, dimethicone copolyol, stearyl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone copolyol, cyclomethicone, etc.); vitamins including precursors and derivatives such as panthenol, tocopheryl acetate, niacinamide, retinyl palmitate, vitamin A palmitate; - the dyes; - the perfumes ; - antioxidants; Antibacterials and / or antifungals; preservatives (ie: methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, iodopropinyl butylcarbamate). - the charges.

Among the fillers that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of organic powders. As used herein, the term "organic powder" means any solid that is insoluble in the medium at room temperature (25 ° C.).

Organic powders which can be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, polyamide particles and especially those sold under the names ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name of Polytrap; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name MICROSPHERE M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name COVABEAD LH85 by the company Wackherr; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name FLOBEADS by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular microspheres formed of a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate and sold under the name EXPANCEL by the company Kemanord Plast under the references 551 DE 12 (particle size distribution). about 12 μm and density 40 kg / m 3), 551 45 DE (particle size about 30 μm and density 65 kg / m 3), 551 DE 50 (particle size about 40 μm), or the microspheres marketed under the US Pat. MICROPEARL F 80 ED designation by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or otherwise, such as starch powders 50 crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY-FLO by National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone, in particular Tospearl 240; amino acid powders, such as the Lauroyl-lysine powder marketed under the name Amihope LL-11 by the Ajinomoto Company; the wax microdispersion particles, which preferably have average dimensions of less than 1 μm and in particular from 0.02 μm to 1 μm, and which consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes, such as products marketed under the name Aquacer by Byk Gera, io and in particular: Aquacer 520 (mixture of synthetic and natural waxes), Aquacer 514 or 513 (polyethylene wax), Aquacer 511 (polymeric wax), or such as the products marketed under the name Jonwax 120 by Johnson Polymer (a mixture of polyethylene wax and paraffin wax) and under the name Ceraflour 961 by Byk Gera (micronized modified polyethylene wax); and their mixtures.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compound (s) mentioned above and / or their amounts in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the compositions according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition or additions envisaged.

According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions may be in the form of a shaving foam. Shaving foams are generally in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in which the aqueous phase generally contains a water-soluble anionic surfactant. The product is generally packaged in a one-piece aerosol container in which the propellant is mixed with the juice; the foam is formed at the outlet of the aerosol device. The propellant is preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbons. The boiling point of the propellant preferably ranges from -20 to 40 ° C. The propellants which can be used according to the invention are chosen from C 4 -C 8 aliphatic hydrocarbons such as n-pentane, isopentane, neopentane, n-butane and isobutane, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, an isobutane / butane / propane mixture will be used. The propellant is preferably present at concentrations ranging from 1 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one particular form of the invention, the shaving compositions may be in the form of a self-foaming gel. Such formulations are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in which the self-foaming agent, usually a volatile aliphatic hydrocarbon (ie: low boiling point) is solubilized in the oil phase and the The aqueous phase generally comprises a water-soluble anionic surfactant. The product is generally packaged in an aerosol container with a separation such as a piston or a flexible bag to separate the self-foaming agent from the propellant necessary for the expulsion of the product. The product is applied as a transparent, translucent or opaque gel which is substantially foam-free until spreading on the skin, at which point a foam is produced by evaporation of the volatile hydrocarbon foaming agent.

The self-foaming agent is preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbons and halogenated volatile hydrocarbons having a boiling point sufficiently low to allow the latter to evaporate and to foam the gel on application to the skin and boiling point high enough to avoid premature foaming. The boiling point of the foaming agent preferably ranges from -20 to 40 ° C. The self-foaming agent is preferably selected so as to form a vapor pressure at 20 ° C of 3 to 20 psig and preferably 5 to 15 psig. The self-foaming agents that can be used according to the invention are chosen from C 4 -C 6 aliphatic hydrocarbons such as n-pentane, isopentane, neopentane, n-butane and isobutane, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, an isopentane / isobutane mixture will be used in a weight ratio ranging from 1/1 to 3/1. The self-foaming agent is preferably present at concentrations ranging from 1 to 80% by weight and more preferably from 2 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The invention also relates to a shaving kit characterized in that it comprises a) at least one shaving composition as defined above and (b) at least one particularly disposable razor and optionally (c) means spreading a shaving composition.

According to one particular form of the invention, the kit may additionally contain an aftershave composition for soothing the shaving fire.

The compositions according to the invention may constitute cleaning or makeup removal products for the skin (body, face, eyes). They can be used for any type of skin (dry, normal, mixed or oily).

The compositions of the invention may especially be used as a shower product; bath product; as a hand cleaning product; as a makeup remover for eyes and / or face.

The compositions according to the invention can also be used for the treatment of oily skin, in particular by adding specific active agents for the treatment of oily skin, such as antiseborrheic agents such as, for example, salicylic acid and its derivatives, azelaic acid. , triclosan, tricarban, piroctone olamine, niacinamide (vitamin PP).

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention. The amounts indicated are in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and the names of the compounds in chemical names or INCI names as appropriate.

EXAMPLES 1-4: Shaving Foams Ingredients Ex 1 (1 Ex 2 (1 EX 3 Ex 4 (1 STEARIC ACID 6.48 6.48 6.48 6.48 TRIETHANOLAMINE 3.264 3.264 3.264 3.264 GLYCERIN 2.466 2.496 2.466 2.496 POLYSORBATE 20 1 , 92 1.92 1.92 1.92 (TWEEN 20-LQ from CRODA) DIMETHICONOL STEARATE 0.768, (100% MA) (MIRASIL WAX-S from RHODIA) TRIDECETH-9 PG-0.768 AMODIMETHICONE (and) from TRIDECETH-12 (80% MA) material (SILCARE SILICONE SEA active CLARIANT) AMODIMETHICONE (100% MA) 0.768 (DC 2-8566 AMINO FLUID DOW CORNING) PERFUME 0.96 0.96 0.96 0.96 ISOBUTANE (and) BUTANE (and) 4 4 4 4 PROPANE (AEROSOL PROPELLANT A-46 of I PSA) WATER qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 (*) outside the invention Mode of operation

The compositions described are manufactured in the following manner: In the water of the formula are added the hydrophilic compounds (glycerin) and mixed until perfect dissolution. This mixture is then heated and stirred, then stearic acid, polysorbate 20 is added. Once the temperature of 75 ° C. has been reached and the compounds are perfectly dissolved, the triethanolamine is added and mixed for at least 15 minutes at this temperature. . The mixture is then cooled: the silicone is added to 50 ° C. Heat sensitive compounds are added and mixed at 40 ° C such as perfume (or dyes, vitamins, preservatives) The assembly is finally cooled to room temperature. The composition is packaged in an aerosol container; a valve is added and then crimped; the gas mixture is introduced into the container and mixed. The shaving composition is recovered by pressure on an aerosol dispenser. 19 25 5 20) Stock stability test

The compositions are placed firstly in an oven at 45 ° C for two months and secondly stored at room temperature: Among others, the color of the samples is compared.

Notes Color stability 10 5 Very good or 4 Good 3 Acceptable 2 Poor 1 Very bad 15 2) Dosaqe test of the composition deposited on the skin Application of the rasaqe compositions to the skin: The shaving compositions are applied manually to a washed skin using water and soap (not containing any silicone). The composition to be dosed (approximately 200 mg) is applied to the skin, left on the skin for 5 minutes and then removed using a metal spatula (simulating shaving). A "squam" adhesive disc (diameter 22 mm, Cuderm brand) is then applied to the surface of the skin and is held in place under a mass of 100 grams for 40 seconds: this D'squame allows cells to be recovered. of the upper layer of the epidermis as well as the compounds present therein.

A Control Squama is applied to an area of the bare skin.

This disc is then packaged in a glass vial and stored until freeze analysis.

During the X-ray fluorescence assay, the disk is placed in a specific cell and analyzed.

40 Silicone dosaqe on the skin: Principle:

Energy dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF). 45 Identification of the silicon element present in the applied compositions

X-ray fluorescence spectrometry is a non-destructive multi-elemental analysis technique. It makes it possible to obtain the composition of an inorganic sample for elements between aluminum and uranium in the periodic table. A sample is excited by color changes. No yellowing 4 very slight yellowing 3 slight yellowing 2 yellowing 1 strong yellowing 30 X photons from an x-ray tube (rhodium tube in our case). These photons tear out electrons from the sample, creating gaps. To find the equilibrium, other electrons coming from upper layers will complete the gaps. These changes of electronic layers are accompanied by energy emissions characteristic of the excited element (X-ray fluorescence spectrum).

Equipment used :

X-ray Fluorescence Spectrometer, PANALYTICAL MINIPAL 4 and XRF Plastic Cells + polyester-PETP 3.6 μm film (Panalytical SAS)

Parameters: Voltage 15 kV; Intensity 0.580 mA; no filter ; 60 seconds of acquisition time.

Operating mode:

The sample to be assayed (the D'squame) is placed in the XRF cell and placed in the spectrometer, the result of the measurement being expressed in counts per second (ex: 32 cps). Three measurements per sample are made. A calibration straight line of the silicone to be assayed is made using specific solutions determined in a suitable solvent (or mixture of solvent) (eg hexane / propanol 2). This line has for equation: Concentration (pg / cm2) = aX + b or X is the value in stroke (cps) obtained during the measurement by spectrometry; a and b are calibration constants. We deduce the silicone concentration present on each squam.

RESULTS Ex 1 (1 Ex 2 (1 EX 3 Ex 4 (1 Yellowing 2 months T ° C 5 5 5 3 ambient Yellowing 2 months 45 ° C 4 4 4 2 Concentration deposited 8.6 ± 1.6 32.0 ± 8.5 76.8 ± 11.4 (Average pg / cm2) (*) excluding the invention

It is found that the composition 3 according to the invention containing the aminopolyorganosiloxane amphiphile is storage stable after 2 months at room temperature and at 45 ° C contrary to the composition 4 comprising an amodimethicone.

It is found that the composition 3 according to the invention containing the amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane leads to a composition deposit substantially greater than the composition 2 comprising an acyloxyalkyl functional polyorganosiloxane and that the composition 1 does not contain silicone.

Claims (13)

REVENDICATIONS1. Composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least one amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane; b) at least one C 6 -C 20 fatty acid salt or a mixture of C 6 -C 20 fatty acid salts. 2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein the aminopolyorganosiloxane amphiphilic is selected from those containing amino groups substituted in part by at least one radical of the formula T-CH2-CHOH-CH2- (a) wherein T denotes a nonionic surfactant residue of formula: R1- (OX) q-OH (O) in which R1 denotes a C8 -C24 hydrocarbon radical; X is C2-C4 alkylene; and q is an integer of 4 to 50; with at least 50% of the X groups denote ethylene and said substituted amino groups are attached to the desilicone atoms of the silicone backbone by alkylene bridges or mono- or oligo- (alkyleneamino) alkylene bridges; in an average ratio of 1.5 radicals of formula (a) per aminoalkyl, amino-mono- or oligo- (alkyleneamino) alkyl group bonded to a silicon atom. 25 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the amphiphilic aminopolyorganosiloxane corresponds to the following formula (1): ## STR1 ## in which R 1, R 2 and R 3, which may be identical or different, denote linear C 1 -C 20 linear alkyl, branched and preferably simultaneously denote the group -CH3 R, which are identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl group, a hydroxyl group or a C1-C20 alkoxy group, linear or branched and preferably OH or alkoxy; linear C1-C4 and more particularly OH or methoxy; R 'and R ", identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C5 alkylene; the radicals A, which may be identical or different, denote hydroxyl or a group R4OR5 in which R4 denotes a linear or branched C2-C4 alkylene radical and preferably -CH2CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH3 or the group -CH2- CH 2 --CH 2 --CH 3 R 5 denotes a linear or branched C 9 -C 18 alkyl radical and more particularly a linear C 11 -C 18 alkyl n and m varies so that the weight average molecular weight of the polyorganopolysiloxane is between 1500 and 300000, preferably from 1500 to 150,000; q varies from 4 to 50, preferably from 4 to 30 and more particularly from 4 to 20. 4. Composition according to claim 3, wherein the aminopolyorganosiloxane of formula (I) has the following structure (b): ## STR2 ## in which R denotes OH or a methoxy radical; The A radicals simultaneously denote a group of the formula -O4CH2CH2O} q C13H27 q = 9 and n and m are such that the weight average molecular weight is 130,000 g / mol. 5. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the aminopolyoganosiloxane amphiphilic compound corresponds to the following formula (II): ## STR5 ## wherein R 1 is CH 2 OH Wherein R "', which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C5-C20 alkyl group and more particularly a linear C13-C15 alkyl radical R' and R", which are identical to one another; or different, denote linear or branched C 1 -C 5 alkylene, ranging from 25 to 100 and preferably from 50 to 80, m varies from 1 to 10 and preferably from 1 to 5. 6. The composition according to claim 5, wherein the aminopolyoganosiloxane of formula (11) is chosen by those for which: R 'denotes the group -CH2-CH2-CH2- or the group -CH2 CH-CH2-CH3 R "designates CH2-CHZ- 7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the aminopolyoganosiloxane of formula (II) has the following structure (a): ## STR2 ## where O. Si -O- (CHZ-) 7-CH3 CH 3 (CH 2) 70 - If iCH 2) 3, -CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 N 'CH 2 CH 2 -OH' '' OH (a) HO- ~ _ ~ ~ OH ~ OH ~ where r is 12 to 14; n varies from 50 to 70 and m varies from 1 to 3 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising at least one acyloxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxane chosen from (iii) linear compounds corresponding to the following formula (1): ## STR2 ## If R 16 Si R 6 u in which the R 6 radicals: identical or different, are chosen from methyl, phenyl, OCOR 9, hydroxyl, only one of the radicals R 6 may be OH; the radicals R7, which are identical or different, are chosen from phenyl or methyl radicals, 60 mol% of all the radicals R6 and R7 is methyl; Rs is a linear or branched hydrocarbon divalent alkylene chain having from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 and more particularly a trimethylene chain - (CH 2) 3 and methyl-2-trimethylene CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 3 R9 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical of C20-C20; v is a number between 0 and 20 t is a number between 1 and 20 u is 0 or is less than 0.5t, the sum t + u being between 1 and 20; (iv) cyclic compounds having the following formula (2): SiR (2) wherein R7, R8, R9 have the same meanings given in formula (1) above; x is a number between 0 and 20 y is a number between 1 and 20 z is 0 or is equal to a number less than 0.5y, the sum y + z being between 1 and 20. 9. The composition of claim 8, wherein the compounds of formula (1) or (2) to are selected from those for which R6 is methyl R7 is methyl R8 is - (CH2) 3- R9 is C12H25, C14H29, C16H33, C18H37 , oleyl; V is between 1 and 30 t is between 5 and 16; u is between 0.5 and 4; x + y + z is between 3 and 10 'inclusive, in particular chosen from polyorganosiloxanes containing stearate groups. 20 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the shaving composition is in the form of lotion, cream, gel, foam, self-foaming gel and more particularly shaving foam. 25 11. A method of shaving the skin, in particular the skin of the face of men comprising at least the following steps: a) applying to the area of skin to shave a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10; ; b) shaving the hair with a razor. 30 12. Shaving kit characterized in that it comprises a) at least one shaving composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10 and (b) at least one particularly disposable razor and optionally (c) spreading means of a shaving composition. 13. A method of cleaning the skin comprising applying to the surface a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10 followed by rinsing with water.