EP2563317A2

EP2563317A2 - Bleaching agent having delayed bleaching action

Info

Publication number: EP2563317A2
Application number: EP10706633A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Carolin Welz; Hartmut Manneck; Astrid Kleen; Mustafa Akram
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date: 2009-03-18
Filing date: 2010-03-03
Publication date: 2013-03-06
Also published as: WO2010105906A3; WO2010105906A2; US20120009134A1; DE102009001636A1

Abstract

The invention relates to agents for lightening and/or bleaching keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, comprising coated bleaching and/or alkalinization agents. In this way, even lightening is to be ensured, regardless of which strands were treated first or last with the bleaching agent. Shellack has been found to be a particularly preferred encapsulating material, in particular in combination with talcum. The present invention further relates to a method for producing lightening and/or bleaching agents for keratinic fibers containing coated particles.

Description

"Bleach with delayed onset of bleaching"

The invention relates to agents for whitening and / or bleaching keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, which contain coated bleaching and / or alkalizing agents. This is to ensure a uniform lightening, regardless of which strands were treated first or last with the Blondiermittel. The formulation according to the invention makes it possible for the user, in spite of time-intensive application of highlights, to rinse off all strands at the same time at the end of the bleaching process, because the hairs were evenly bleached by the delayed start of the bleaching process. The delay of the bleaching process is achieved by the coating and / or encapsulation of individual or all bleaching components. Shellac has proven to be a particularly preferred encapsulating material. Another object of the present invention relates to a process for the preparation of brightening and / or bleaching agents for keratinic fibers containing coated particles.

Changing the shape and color of the hair is an important area of modern cosmetics. This allows the hair's appearance to be adapted to current fashion trends as well as to the individual wishes of the individual. The consumer particularly likes to use so-called blonding, bleaching or brightening agents, which are used synonymously below.

Commercially available high-performance bleaching agents in the conventional sense are usually bleaching powders comprising one or more persulfate salts, sodium silicate (water glass) and setting agents, which are mixed with a hydrogen peroxide solution immediately before use. Such bleaching agents usually involve the consumer with the problem of uneven dyeings. For uniform dyeings, it is particularly important to control the starting point of the dyeing processes. This problem is especially pronounced when many selected hairpieces distributed over the head are to be dyed. Frequently lightening agents are used to lighten only individual strands of hair to produce an optically interesting hair coloring. In the conventional "highlighting process", individual strands of hair are inserted into films, applied to the bleaching preparation and smashed into the film Due to this time-consuming application process, the action times on the strands applied one after the other are different, so that even a portion of the hair to be bleached is sufficiently bleached. while in another part of the bleaching process has not yet begun, which would lead to unwanted because different Aufhellergebnissen with differently strong bleached strands.This makes it necessary to wash the hair during the Blondierprozesses partially .Therefore, a greater temporal independence for the user, especially for the professional user, when applying and rinsing the Blondiermittel desirable. There has therefore been no lack of attempts to develop suitable methods for delaying the start of staining.

One approach is the selective encapsulation of ingredients. DE 199 43 925 A1 discloses a bleach coated with C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid sugar ester. From DE 10 2004 038 991 A1, a bleaching agent is known which contains a coated alkalizing agent, wherein the shell consists of at least 50% by weight of complexing agents. DE 10 2005 038 073 A1 discloses bleaching agents for keratin-containing fibers with coated alkalizing agent, which comprises a particle core containing alkalizing agent and having a shell surrounding this core, which consists of fatty acids, lactones, acid anhydrides and / or water-soluble polymers. DE 10 2007 041 492 A1 also describes slow bleach bleaches containing a solid alkalizing agent, the alkalizing agent comprising a particulate core containing the alkalizing agent and having a shell surrounding said core consisting of certain water-insoluble organic oils and waxes. WO 1997 007776 A1 discloses dust-free hair bleaches containing peroxo compounds coated with alkylated diesters, cyclic ethers and esters. The coating of pH adjusters in hair dyes is known from EP 1 752 191 A2, which discloses encapsulated alkalizing agents, and WO 89 06531 A1, which describes encapsulated acidifying agents.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide compositions for brightening keratin-containing fibers, which make it possible to achieve a uniform and uniform whitening result, in particular also in the case of the "streaking technique." The overblowing of individual strands, which in the process differs from others Strands are applied to the application mixture, should be avoided.

It has now been found that the above objects can be achieved by providing bleaching agents which contain at least one particulate component which has a particle core and a coating of certain coating substances. In contrast to conventional bleaching agents, at least some or even all constituents of the bleaching agent according to the invention are encapsulated or coated in order to release the active ingredients with a delay. Suitable for the coating are organic and inorganic materials which are difficult to dissolve in the aqueous developer preparation and act like a delayed switch. Shell or encapsulation material shellac has proven to be particularly advantageous in terms of a delayed drug release.

A first subject of the present invention are therefore coated particles comprising a solid particle core and containing a shell surrounding this core, which are characterized in that the shell contains at least shellac.

Shellac is obtained from the secretions of Lackschildläusen (Kerria lacca or Laccifer lacca) and is a tough resin with an average molecular weight of about 1000 g / mol. It exists predominantly of partially unsaturated hydroxycarboxylic acids which are esterified with one another or present as lactone. The main components are aleuritic acid (aleuric acid, 9,10,16-trihydroxypalmitic acid) with up to about 32 wt .-% and shelloleic acid.

Shellac is readily soluble in alcohols, organic acids and aqueous alkalis, less in esters and ketones, and insoluble in hydrocarbons and water.

When shellac is extracted, secretions secreted on branches are collected, freed of twigs and decolorized alkaline. From this so-called grain varnish, the actual shellac is isolated as a wax-containing or wax-free resin. The shellac produced by a melt filtration process in which molten grain varnish is filtered to remove impurities (trade names: Lemon, TN, Ivory, Orange, Honey) still has the natural wax content of about 4 to 6 wt .-%. Bleached shellac is the result of the action of sodium hypochlorite (sodium hypochlorite) on grain varnish as a white powder; it is offered waxy or wax-free. From shell varnish by solvent extraction with (partial) decolorization with activated carbon wax-free shellac obtained during drying in the form of thin leaves is traded as a shellac. Such wax-free shellac is sold, for example, under the trade name Shellac SSB 55 Astra FL (wax content not more than 0.2% by weight), Shellac CZSH 2 (wax content not more than 0.25% by weight), Mantrolac R 49 (wax content not exceeding 0.2% by weight) 25% by weight aqueous solution with pH-7.3 from SSB) and Angelo Dewaxed Garnet Shellac.

According to the invention, wax-free or low-wax shellac is particularly preferably used as envelope or encapsulation material. Shell-poor shellac is understood to mean shellac whose weight fraction of wax is at most 0.5% by weight.

Shellac is easily curable and chemically modifiable due to the large number of its functional groups. He can be particularly well mixed with other wrapping agents.

It has been found that it is particularly advantageous according to the invention if the shell material contains at least one further component. As a further component, certain clay minerals and especially phyllosilicates have proven to be particularly advantageous. Layer silicates which can be used according to the invention are serpentine, kaolinite, but in particular phyllosilicates such as pyrophyllite and very particularly preferably talc.

Talc or talc (INCI name: TaIc) is an insoluble magnesium silicate (Mg ₃ (OH) ₂ Z [Si ₄ O ₁₀ ] or 3MgO-4SiO ₂ Η ₂ O) and is mostly used as a white powder as a filler in envelopes in the pharmaceutical industry and used in the food industry.

A preferred embodiment of the present invention are therefore coated particles comprising a solid particle core and containing a shell surrounding this core, the characterized in that the shell consists of at least two components, these two components being shellac and talc.

Coated particles whose shell is characterized in that they contain at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, particularly preferably at least 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the shell, are particularly preferred the two components shellac and talcum exists.

In order to ensure the delay in the release of the particle cores in the bleaching preparation, it has been found that the two components shellac and talc should be in a certain weight ratio to each other. A preferred embodiment of the present invention are therefore coated particles, which are characterized in that in their shell, the two components shellac and talc in a weight ratio of 5 to 1 to 1 to 1; preferably from 3 to 1 to 3 to 2, to each other.

A shell material which can be used particularly advantageously according to the invention has proven to be the raw material marketed by the company Biogrund under the trade name Bonulac, which consists of shellac (50-60%), ammonium bicarbonate (5-10%), fractionated coconut oil (2-5%), glycerol ( 3-7%) and talc (20-30%).

In principle, all solid constituents of a blonding preparation can be used as the particle core. It is inventively preferred to coat all solid components of Blondierzubereitung with the shell material. In a further embodiment of the present invention, it may be preferable to use only a part of the constituents or certain, functionally restricted substance classes in the bleaching agent as the particle core. These functional substance classes include, in particular, those which have a direct influence on the start of the bleaching process, in particular peroxo compounds or alkalizing agents. By coating these compounds, the start of the actual whitening process is delayed, and thus achieved a greater temporal independence when applying the bleaching for the user. Even in the case of bad time compliance by the user when rinsing the strands, therefore, a uniform and gentle brightening is obtained.

As enveloped particle cores are therefore preferably on the one hand solid peroxo compounds and on the other hand solid alkalizing agents. As a result of the coating, the oxidizing agent required for the bleaching action in the form of the peroxo compound and / or the pH adjusting agent required for the bleaching is thus released only after a delay.

A preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that the coated particles contain solid alkalizing agents and / or solid peroxo compounds as the particle core. The solid alkalizing agent serves to adjust an alkaline pH of the application mixture. According to the invention, the usual alkalizing agents known to the person skilled in the art for bleaching agents, such as ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, and the correspondingly analogous carbonates, silicates, in particular metasilicates, and alkali metal phosphates can be used. Also alkaline reacting amino acids such as arginine, ornithine and lysine can be used.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the particulate core comprises solid alkalizing agents, which are preferably selected from alkali metal carbonates, alkali metal silicates and alkali metal phosphates, in particular alkali metal silicates and metasilicates.

In a further preferred embodiment, the particles according to the invention contain as particle core at least two different alkalizing agents. In this case, mixtures, for example of a metasilicate and a carbonate, may be preferred.

A further preferred embodiment of the present invention are coated particles which contain peroxo compounds as a coated particle core.

Peroxo compounds known to the person skilled in the art, for example hydrogen peroxide addition compounds onto solid supports, ammonium and alkali metal peroxomonosulfates and peroxodisulfates, alkali metal peroxo diphosphates such as potassium peroxodiphosphate, percarbonates such as magnesium percarbonate, peroxides such as barium peroxide and perborates such as sodium perborate can be used according to the invention. Particularly preferred peroxo compounds are selected from the group consisting of ammonium peroxodisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium peroxomonosulfate, potassium peroxomonosulfate, sodium peroxomonosulfate, and hydrogen peroxide addition compounds to solid carriers, urea peroxide and melamine peroxide. Among these peroxo compounds, which can also be used in combination, the inorganic compounds are preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred are the peroxodisulfates, in particular combinations of at least two peroxodisulfates. Very particularly preferred are the combination of ammonium peroxodisulfate and sodium peroxodisulfate and the combination of ammonium peroxodisulfate and potassium peroxodisulfate.

A further preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that the coated particles contain, as particle core, solid peroxo compounds selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide addition compounds to solid supports, ammonium peroxomonosulfates, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates, ammonium peroxodisulfates and alkali metal peroxodisulfates.

It may be advantageous according to the invention if the coated particles in the shell material contain additional additional coating substances. The various encapsulants may be combined to achieve a particular time delay. there For example, the various shell materials can be mixed together before coating and applied to the particle core as co-cladding material. However, it may also be desirable to influence the release by different shell materials. For this purpose, it may be advantageous to apply the various coating materials one after the other so that the particle core is surrounded by envelopes differing in their properties.

Preferred additional coating materials are derivatives of cellulose, in particular ethers of cellulose. Such cellulose ethers are obtainable by reacting cellulose with alkylating agents, such as alkyl halides or epoxides. Preferred alkylating agents are methyl chloride, ethyl chloride, 1-propyl chloride, 2-propyl chloride, methyl bromide, ethyl bromide, 1-propyl bromide, 2-propyl bromide, ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, 1-butylene oxide, 2-butylene oxide and isobutylene oxide. The simultaneous use of epoxides and alkyl halides leads to substitution distributions of alkylations, hydroxyalkylations and alkoxyalkylations. The latter are formed by hydroxyalkylation and subsequent alkylation at the newly formed hydroxy functionality.

Particularly preferred additional coating materials according to the invention are cellulose ethers which are selected from the compounds having the INCI names hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and ethylcellulose. Such coating materials are commercially available and are of, for example, under the trade name Methocel ^® E, Methocel ^® F, Methocel ^® J, Methocel ^® K and Methocel ^® 310 and Ethocel ^® or Methocel ^® A from Dow Chemicals or under the trade name Surelease ^® from Company Colorcon distributed.

HPMC (hydroxypropylmethylcellulose) and the casing material marketed under the trade name Aquapolish by the company Biogrund, which consists of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose (HPMC), hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC), talc, stearic acid and microcrystalline cellulose, have proven to be a particularly advantageous, additional shell material.

If the shell does not consist of 100% of the substances mentioned, it may contain other ingredients such as plasticizers, disintegrants, release agents, dyes and fragrances or auxiliaries.

Particularly preferred particles according to the invention contain plasticizers in the shell for a better elasticity of the shell. Plasticizers are preferably selected from the group formed from dialkyl phthalates, in particular diethyl phthalate, triethyl citrate, glycerol triacetate and / or the polyethylene glycols.

In a further embodiment, the coated particles according to the invention additionally contain at least one disintegrating agent in the shell surrounding the particle core. Such disintegrants are often described in the literature as disintegrants or disintegrants. Such substances are incorporated into the polymer sheath to shorten their disintegration times and to adjust to a desired period of time. According to the invention, a period of 15 to 30 minutes is preferred. This disintegration of the shell happens in particular by an increase in volume due to water access (swelling).

Disintegrating agents based on cellulose are used as preferred disintegrating agents in the context of the present invention. Suitable celluloses consist of about 500 to 5000 glucose units and therefore have average molecular weights of 50,000 to 500,000. Cellulose-based disintegrating agents which can be used in the context of the present invention are also cellulose derivatives obtainable by polymer-analogous reactions of cellulose. Such chemically modified celluloses include, for example, products of esterifications or etherifications in which hydroxy hydrogen atoms have been substituted. Celluloses in which the hydroxy groups have been replaced by functional groups which are not bonded via an oxygen atom can also be used as cellulose derivatives. The group of cellulose derivatives includes, for example, alkali celluloses, carboxymethylcellulose (CMC), cellulose esters and ethers, and aminocelluloses. The cellulose derivatives mentioned are preferably not used as the sole cellulosic disintegrating agent but are used in admixture with cellulose. The content of these mixtures of cellulose derivatives is preferably below 50% by weight, particularly preferably below 20% by weight, based on the cellulose-based disintegrating agent. It is particularly preferred to use cellulose-based disintegrating agent which is free of cellulose derivatives. As a further disintegrating agent based on cellulose or as a component of this component, microcrystalline cellulose can be used. This microcrystalline cellulose is obtained by partial hydrolysis of celluloses under conditions which attack and completely dissolve only the amorphous regions (about 30% of the total cellulose mass) of the celluloses, leaving the crystalline regions (about 70%) intact. Subsequent deaggregation of the microfine celluloses produced by the hydrolysis yields the microcrystalline celluloses which have primary particle sizes of about 5 μm and can be compacted, for example, into granules having an average particle size of 200 μm. Suitable microcrystalline cellulose is available commercially for example under the trade names Emcocel ^® from JRS Pharma or Avicel ^® from FMC. Suitable carboxymethylcellulose derivatives sold for example under the trade name Tylopur ^® by the company Clariant, or Ac-Di-Sol ^® from FMC.

Furthermore, starch may also preferably be used as disintegrating agent in the context of the present invention. The starch which can be used according to the invention is usually obtained from vegetable raw materials such as rice, soya, potatoes or maize. Starch can be used unmodified or, similarly to cellulose, as a modified starch. Particularly preferred starch modifications thereby provide esterification and etherification reactions, in particular the resulting ethers from reactions with hydroxycarboxylic acids. An invention Particularly suitable starch modification is the mixture of sodium carboxymethyl starch, and sodium glycol starch which is marketed under the trade name Explotab ^® by the company JRS Pharma. Disintegrating agents based on corn starch are particularly preferred according to the invention. Suitable modified corn starches, for example, under the trade names Glycolys ^® by Roquette or Starch 1500 ^® by the company Colorcon available.

Finally, disintegrating agents of crosslinked, water-insoluble polyvinylpyrrolidinone (PVP) represent another class of disintegrating agents which are particularly suitable according to the invention. The advantageous crosslinking of this PVP modification is based primarily on entanglements and entanglements of the individual polymer strands. An inventively particularly preferred disintegrant PVP-based marketed under the trade name Kollidon ^® CL by BASF.

The coatings of the invention surrounding the particle core contain the disintegrants, in particular in amounts of from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, in each case also based on the total weight of the dried shell.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the shell surrounding the particle core additionally contains at least one release agent and / or at least one pore-forming agent.

In a preferred embodiment, the coated particles according to the invention therefore additionally contain at least one release agent in the shell surrounding the particle core. The release agent is used to prevent sticking or caking of the coated particles in the production process and / or during storage and / or optionally during mixing with further preparations. As the release agent, in particular talc, amorphous silica, which is sold for example under the trade name Syloid 244FP ^® by the company Grace GmbH, glycerol monostearate, magnesium stearate and silicates have proven.

Particles which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the particulate constituents contain silicon dioxide as additional release agent.

In a further embodiment, the coated particles according to the invention additionally comprise at least one pore-forming agent in the shell surrounding the particle core. Pore formers are incorporated into the coating and cause pores to form in the surface of the coating: This results in an increase in the diffusion rate into the polymer shell for hydrophilic substances, in particular water. Polyvinylpyrrolidinone, sugars and sugar alcohols such as lactose, sucrose, sorbitol and mannitol, polyethylene glycols having less than 600 ethylene oxide units, and cellulose derivatives such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose and mixtures thereof are particularly suitable according to the invention as pore formers. According to the invention particularly preferred pore formers are polyvinylpyrrolidinones (PVP), for example, under the trade name Kollidon ^® from BASF company are sold. According to the invention, the proportion by weight of the pore formers in the dried casing is between 0.5 and 50% by weight, in particular between 1 and 30% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the casing.

In a production of the casing according to the invention, the encapsulants and optionally the other auxiliaries are mixed homogeneously and by means of fluidized bed technology (with bottom spray method with or without Wurstereinsatz or tangential spray method) as an aqueous dispersion on the powdery particle cores, in particular the solid alkalizing and solid Peroxo compounds sprayed on and simultaneously dried in a stream of air, so that a uniform, almost 100% layer encloses the powder particles.

As an alternative to fluidized-bed technology, coatings with the above-mentioned film materials can alternatively be produced with the aid of the spouted-bed technology. Another possibility for enveloping powder particles is the melt extrusion technology.

It may be advantageous according to the invention to encapsulate the particle cores with a multilayer shell. In this case, the same or different in their composition of encapsulating materials, release agents and excipients different dispersions can be applied successively, optionally also applied by means of different coating techniques.

In a particular embodiment of the present invention, it has proven to be particularly advantageous if the particulate components contain as additional release agent for particularly effective prevention of sticking or caking of the particles silica, in particular amorphous and / or pyrogenic silica, which, for example, under the trade name Syloid 244FP sold by the company Grace GmbH or Aerosil by Evonik.

For this purpose, the particulate constituents can be mixed directly with silicon dioxide, in particular as long as the particles have not yet completely dried. According to the invention, the particulate constituents containing silicon dioxide as additional release agent are prepared by spraying the particulate constituents already coated with one or more casings with an aqueous dispersion containing silicon dioxide and then drying them. Such a silica-containing dispersion preferably contains between 5 and 30% by weight of silicon dioxide and is marketed, for example, under the trade name Aerodisp W by Evonik.

In a further embodiment, subsets of the particle cores are encapsulated with different cladding or coating materials. These partial batches are mixed with each other in a certain proportion in a further production process step. The agents according to the invention contain coated particles which have an average particle diameter of from 5 to 1000 μm, preferably from 50 to 500 μm, more preferably from 100 μm to 250 μm. Preferably, the coating material is applied in a certain amount to the particle cores to be coated. In this case, it is preferred according to the invention for the shell to constitute from 10 to 70% by weight, preferably from 15 to 65% by weight, of the total weight of the coated particles.

The described particles are preferably used in cosmetic preparations for lightening hair.

Another object of the present invention therefore relates to an agent for whitening keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, which contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide, and is characterized in that it further contains at least coated particles according to the first subject of the invention.

For the coated particles contained in the agents of the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the particles of the invention. Under keratinic fibers or keratin fibers are furs, wool, feathers and especially human hair to understand.

The agent according to the invention contains the oxidizing agents and the coated particles in a cosmetic carrier. For the purposes of the invention, this cosmetic carrier is aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic. For the purpose of hair coloring such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₄ -alkoxy based on the total weight of the application mixture, in particular ethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol or isopropanol understand. For the purposes of the invention, an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture.

The amount of oxidizing agent in the ready-to-use agent is preferably from 0.5 to 12% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 6% by weight (calculated as 100 gaseous H ₂ O ₂ ), in each case to the ready to use means.

Such oxidizer formulations are preferably aqueous, flowable oxidizer formulations. In this case, preferred formulations are characterized in that the flowable oxidizing agent preparation - based on their weight - 40 to 95 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 90 wt .-%, particularly preferably 55 to 85 wt .-%, more preferably 60 to 80 wt .-% and in particular 65 to 75 wt .-% water.

According to the invention, however, the lightening agent can also be applied to the hair together with a catalyst. Such catalysts are z. Certain enzymes such as peroxidases, iodides, quinones or metal ions such as Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ , Ce ⁴⁺ , V ³⁺ , Co ²⁺ , Ru ³⁺ and Al ³⁺ , in particular Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ .

Furthermore, it has proven to be advantageous if the oxidizing agent preparations contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent. Particularly preferred stabilizers are phenacetin, alkali benzoates (sodium benzoate) and salicylic acid. Also preferred according to the invention is the use of so-called complexing agents. Complex images are substances that can complex metal ions. Preferred complexing agents are so-called chelate complexing agents, ie substances which form cyclic compounds with metal ions, a single ligand occupying more than one coordination site on a central atom, i. H. at least "bidentate". In the context of the present invention, all complexing agents of the prior art can be used. Preferred complexing agents according to the invention are nitrogen-containing polycarboxylic acids, in particular EDTA, and phosphonates, preferably hydroxyalkane or aminoalkane phosphonates and in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1, 1-diphosphonate (HEDP), ethylenediaminetetra methylenephosphonate (EDTMP), diethylenetriaminepentamethylenephosphonate (DTPMP) and Physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned compounds.

The compositions of the invention contain other auxiliaries and additives. It has proved to be preferred according to the invention if the dyeing preparation and / or the oxidizing agent preparation contains at least one thickener. With regard to these thickeners, there are no fundamental restrictions. It is possible to use both organic polymers, for example anionic or nonionic synthetic polymers, natural thickeners, for example biosaccharide gums, alginates or starch, and purely inorganic thickeners, for example bentonite, especially smectites.

To further increase the performance of the oxidizing agent preparation, at least one optionally hydrated SiO ₂ compound may additionally be added to the composition according to the invention. It may be preferred according to the invention, the optionally hydrated SiO ₂ - compounds in amounts of 0.05 wt .-% to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably in amounts of 0.15 wt .-% to 10 wt .-% and completely particularly preferably used in amounts of from 0.2 wt .-% to 5 wt .-%, each based on the composition of the invention. The amounts given in each case the content of the SiO ₂ compounds (without their water content) in the funds again. The optionally hydrated SiO ₂ compounds can be present in various forms. According to the invention, the SiO ₂ compounds are preferably used in the form of silica gels (silica gel) or particularly preferably as water glass. These SiO ₂ compounds may be partially present in aqueous solution. Inventions According to particularly preferred water glasses are sold, inter alia, by the company Henkel under the names Ferrosil 1 19, sodium silicate 40/42, Portil A, Portil AW and Portil W and the company Akzo under the name Britesil C20.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are formulated as flowable preparations. For this purpose, the agents are preferably further added an emulsifier or a surfactant, wherein surface-active substances are referred to depending on the field of application as surfactants or as emulsifiers and are selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as, for example, the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocoamidopropyl Betaine. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine. Particularly suitable nonionic surfactants are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C atoms, such as, for example, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, but also stearyl, isostearyl and oleyl alcohol, and also C. ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides. Preparations having excellent properties are also obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

In the case of surfactants which are adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, both products with a "normal" homolog distribution and those with a narrow homolog distribution can be used. By "normal" homolog distribution are meant mixtures of homologs which are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowed homolog distributions, on the other hand, are obtained when, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

The anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use agent ,

Also preferred according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Further cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized protein hydrolysates. The cationic surfactants are preferably used in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

In a preferred embodiment, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof may be preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment, the effect of the agent according to the invention can be increased by the addition of emulsifiers. Such emulsifiers are, for example, adducts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols, with fatty acids and with alkylphenols; C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of ethylene oxide with polyols, in particular with glycerol; C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglucosides and their ethoxylated analogs; Addition products of ethylene oxide to castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil; sterols; phospholipids; Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol; Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearate and linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their physiologically acceptable salts. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, based on the total amount of the ready-to-use agent.

Nonionic emulsifiers or surfactants having an HLB value of 10-15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

According to the invention, ready-to-use agents have a pH of between 7.0 and 12.0, preferably between 7.5 and 11.5, more preferably between 8.0 and 11.0. In order to adjust the pH, those skilled in the art are familiar with common acidifying and alkalizing agents. These alkalizing agents are typically selected from inorganic salts, in particular the alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular amines, basic amino acids and alkanolamines, and ammonia. Organic alkalizing agents which can be used according to the invention are preferably selected from alkanolamines of primary, secondary or tertiary amines having a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl basic body which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are monoethanolamine and triethanolamine. The basic amino acids which can be used as alkalizing agents according to the invention are preferably selected from arginine and lysine. Preferred inorganic alkalizing agents are selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate. Very particular preference is given to sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide. Finally, another preferred alkalizing agent is ammonia. Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are pleasure acids, such as, for example, citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, and also dilute mineral acids. The pH values for the purposes of the present invention are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ^° C. The pH adjusting agents are preferably contained in an amount of from 0.05 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.

In addition, the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, including: nonionic polymers, for example vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidinone, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polyethylene glycols and polysiloxanes; cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers, quaternary group polysiloxanes, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride polymers, acrylamide-dimethyldiallyl-ammonium chloride copolymers, diethyl sulfate quaternized dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate-vinylpyrrolidinone copolymers, vinylpyrrolidinone-imidazolinium methochloride copolymers, and quaternized polyvinyl alcohol; zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers, such as, for example, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers and octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / t-butylaminoethyl methacrylate-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers; anionic polymers such as polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidinone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / Nt-butyl acrylamide terpolymers; other thickeners, such as agar-agar, guar-gum, alginates, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextran, cellulose derivatives, eg. For example, methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol; hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, especially lecithins and cephalins, and silicone oils; Protein hydrolysates, such as elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolysates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolysates; organic solvents such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and diethylene glycol; fiber-structure-improving active compounds, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose; Structurants, such as maleic acid and lactic acid; Defoamers such as silicones, preferably dimethicone; Dyes for staining the agent; Anti-dandruff agents such as zinc omadine and climbazole; Light stabilizers or UV blockers, in particular derivatized benzophenones, cinnamic acid derivatives and triazines; Active substances such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinone-carboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol; Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, in particular those of groups A, B ₃ , B ₅ , B ₆ , C, E, F and H; Cholesterol; Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers; Oils and other fatty substances, such as vegetable or synthetic oils, mostly based on triglycerides, and fatty substances, such as fatty alcohols and their esters with fatty acids; Fats and waxes such as beeswax, montan wax and paraffins; Oil and penetrants such as glycerine, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates; Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate; pigments; Perfume oils; Antioxidants and propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

The choice of these other substances will be made by those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the agents. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publisher, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

The agents according to the invention are particularly suitable for achieving a uniform and uniform lightening.

Another object of the present invention is therefore the use of an agent containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide, and further at least one particulate component, for the uniform lightening of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, wherein the oxidizing agent is preferably hydrogen peroxide and the particulate constituent comprises a particle core, preferably selected from solid alkalizing agents and / or solid peroxo compounds, and having a shell surrounding this core, the shell containing as encapsulating material at least shellac, preferably a mixture of shellac and talc.

With regard to preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, mutatis mutandis, the statements made with regard to the coated particles and agents according to the invention apply with regard to the choice of substance.

In order to prevent premature, unwanted release and / or reaction of the coated particles with the oxidizing agent, coated particles and oxidizing agents themselves are expediently prepared separately from one another and are brought into contact with each other by mixing only immediately before use.

The coated particles can be provided in a variety of forms, such as pastes, powders, tablets, etc., as long as they contain at least one particulate ingredient surrounded by a shell. With particular preference, however, the agents according to the invention are in the form of a bleaching powder with regard to their application. In a preferred embodiment, the coated particles are in the form of a powder or fine granules, which optionally also comprises further uncoated components.

In this embodiment, the powder or granules containing the coated particles, the so-called Blondierpulver (A), in a separate container, preferably in the form of a Tütchens, a sachet, a bag or in the form of an optionally resealable can provided.

In a further embodiment of the present invention, therefore, agents are preferred which are characterized in that they are prepared immediately before use by mixing at least two preparations. Agents of this embodiment are preferably sold as multi-component packaging units (Kit of Parts).

A further embodiment of the present invention is therefore a kit of parts for lightening keratinic fibers, characterized in that it comprises at least two separately prepared containers, one container comprising a preferably pulverulent bleaching preparation (A) containing at least coated particles according to the first subject of the invention, and a further container containing an oxidizing agent composition (B) containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.

In the event that the bleaching preparation (A) is in the form of a powder or fine granules, it may be advantageous for preparing the ready-to-use whitening agent to first mix the bleaching preparation (A) with an additional, liquid cream or emulsion base (C) and then to add an oxidizing agent preparation (B).

This cream or emulsion base (C) is a common cosmetic base on mostly aqueous basis and contains in cosmetics surfactants, emulsifiers, fat and thickeners, as well as other active ingredients and adjuncts, the expert will put together as needed.

A further embodiment of the present invention is therefore a kit of parts for lightening keratinic fibers, characterized in that it comprises at least three separately packaged containers, one container (I) comprising a bleaching preparation (A), a second container (IM) a preparation (C) and another container (II) an oxidizing agent preparation (B) containing at least one oxidizing agent.

The multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) preferably additionally contains an instruction manual which explains the application and, if appropriate, the mixing sequence of the individual preparations. In addition, it may be preferred if an application aid, such as a comb or brush, and / or personal protective equipment, such as disposable gloves, is also included with the kit. With regard to further embodiments of the multicomponent packaging units, mutatis mutandis, the statements made with regard to the coated particles and compositions according to the invention apply.

Another object of the present invention is a process for the preparation of agents for whitening keratinischen fibers, which is characterized in that it comprises the steps of a) applying at least one particulate component with a solution or dispersion of a coating composition containing at least shellac, and optionally in addition Talc, to form a shell, and then b) mixing the coated particle (s) with an oxidation preparation containing hydrogen peroxide.

In the first step of the process according to the invention, at least one particulate ingredient is coated with at least shellac. This step can be carried out easily in a variety of equipment.

These shell materials are sprayed by means of fluidized bed technology (with a bottom spray method with or without Wurstereinsatz or tangential spray method) as aqueous dispersion or dispersion on the particulate ingredients and simultaneously dried in a stream of air, so that a uniform, almost 100% layer encloses the powder particles. Inventive methods in which the coating of the particles to be coated is carried out in a fluidized bed apparatus are preferred.

In the case of an insufficient coating with the production technology described above (fluidized-bed coating), coatings with the abovementioned coating materials with the aid of the spouted-bed technology are alternatively possible. Another possibility for enveloping powder particles is the melt extrusion technology and the use of a mixer granulator.

It has been found to be particularly effective in preventing sticking or caking of the coated particles when the particles on the surface contain silica as an additional release agent. For this purpose, the particles, which are enveloped by one or more, optionally in different thickness and composition encapsulation layers, sprayed with an aqueous dispersion of silica and dried.

The coating of the particle cores according to step a) is thus preferably carried out in two stages, wherein the particle cores to be coated are sprayed and dried in a fluidized bed apparatus in a first stage optionally with a dispersion containing at least shellac and optionally talc and / or additional coating materials and auxiliaries, and in a second step with an aqueous dispersion containing silica, sprayed and dried.

The coated particles obtained in this way are used to prepare the ready-to-use brightening agent by mixing the coated particle (s) with an oxidation preparation containing hydrogen peroxide.

A preferred embodiment of the process according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the particulate constituents coated according to step a) are additionally sprayed with an aqueous dispersion containing silicon dioxide after this step and then dried before the mixing step b) takes place.

With regard to further embodiments of the method according to the invention, the statements made on the coated particles and compositions according to the invention apply mutatis mutandis.

Claims

Patent claims

1. Coated particles comprising a solid particle core and containing a shell surrounding this core, characterized in that the shell contains at least shellac.

2. Coated particles according to claim 1, characterized in that the shell consists of at least two components, these two components are shellac and talc.

3. Particles according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that as a solid particle alkalizing agent and / or solid peroxo compounds are included.

4. Particles according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that there are contained as particle core solid alkalizing agents, which are preferably selected from alkali metal carbonates, metasilicates, silicates and phosphates, in particular alkali metal silicates and alkali metal metasilicates.

5. Particles according to claim 1, characterized in that solid peroxo compounds selected from the group consisting of hydrogen peroxide addition compounds to solid supports, ammonium peroxomonosulfates, alkali metal peroxomonosulfates, ammonium peroxodisulfates and alkali metal peroxo compounds are present as particle core. metallperoxodisulfaten.

6. Particles according to one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that the shell to at least 50 wt .-%, preferably at least 60 wt .-%, more preferably at least 70 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the shell , consists of the two components shellac and talc.

7. Particles according to one of claims 2 to 6, characterized in that in the shell, the two components shellac and talc in a weight ratio of 5 to 1 to 1 to 1; preferably 3 to 1 to 3 to 2, to each other.

8. Particles according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the shell contains as additional component a cellulose derivative, preferably selected from hydroxypropyl methylcellulose and / or hydroxypropylcellulose.

9. Particles according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the shell surrounding the particle core additionally contains at least one disintegrating agent.

10. Particles according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the particulate components contain silica as additional release agent.

11. A composition for whitening keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide, characterized in that it further contains at least coated particles according to one of claims 1 to 10.

12. Use of a composition according to claim 11 for the uniform lightening of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair.

13. A multicomponent packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for brightening keratinic fibers, characterized in that it comprises at least two separate containers, one container comprising a preferably pulverulent bleaching preparation containing at least coated particles according to one of claims 1 to 10, and another container contains an oxidizer composition containing at least one chemical oxidizer, especially hydrogen peroxide.

14. A process for the preparation of agents for whitening keratin fibers, characterized by the steps a) applying at least one particulate component with a solution or dispersion of a coating composition containing at least shellac and optionally additionally talc, to form a shell, and b) mixing the / the coated particles with an oxidation preparation containing hydrogen peroxide.

15. The method according to claim 14, characterized in that the coated according to step a, particulate components are additionally sprayed after this step with an aqueous dispersion containing silica, and then dried before the mixing step b takes place.