EP2525774B1 - New lipo-phosphated or lipo-sulphated compound, compositions comprising it and topical uses thereof - Google Patents

New lipo-phosphated or lipo-sulphated compound, compositions comprising it and topical uses thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2525774B1
EP2525774B1 EP11706623.3A EP11706623A EP2525774B1 EP 2525774 B1 EP2525774 B1 EP 2525774B1 EP 11706623 A EP11706623 A EP 11706623A EP 2525774 B1 EP2525774 B1 EP 2525774B1
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EP
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Prior art keywords
lipo
phosphomalate
agents
skin
phase
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EP11706623.3A
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German (de)
English (en)
French (fr)
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EP2525774A1 (en
Inventor
Arnaud Fournial
Philippe Mondon
Olivier Peschard
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Sederma SA
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Sederma SA
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07C—ACYCLIC OR CARBOCYCLIC COMPOUNDS
    • C07C305/00—Esters of sulfuric acids
    • C07C305/02—Esters of sulfuric acids having oxygen atoms of sulfate groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms of a carbon skeleton
    • C07C305/04—Esters of sulfuric acids having oxygen atoms of sulfate groups bound to acyclic carbon atoms of a carbon skeleton being acyclic and saturated
    • C07C305/06—Hydrogenosulfates
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07—ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07F—ACYCLIC, CARBOCYCLIC OR HETEROCYCLIC COMPOUNDS CONTAINING ELEMENTS OTHER THAN CARBON, HYDROGEN, HALOGEN, OXYGEN, NITROGEN, SULFUR, SELENIUM OR TELLURIUM
    • C07F9/00—Compounds containing elements of Groups 5 or 15 of the Periodic Table
    • C07F9/02—Phosphorus compounds
    • C07F9/06—Phosphorus compounds without P—C bonds
    • C07F9/08—Esters of oxyacids of phosphorus
    • C07F9/09—Esters of phosphoric acids
    • C07F9/091—Esters of phosphoric acids with hydroxyalkyl compounds with further substituents on alkyl

Definitions

  • the subject matter of the present invention is a new phosphated lipidic compound, a composition comprising it and uses thereof, for example in the field of cosmetics, personnal care products and dermopharmacy.
  • the present invention concerns the chemical, medical or cosmetical industries for the care of the skin and apendages (such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, hairs) of mammals, animals or humans.
  • the object of the present invention is to meet this demand.
  • the present invention is therefore aiming the phosphated compound having the following developped formula II:
  • a lipidic/lipophilic chain R 1 OR 2 , R 2 being an alkyl chain of 4 to 24 carbon atoms, linear, branched or cyclic, with or without substitutions, saturated or not, hydroxylated or not, sulfurated or not.
  • the compound according to the present invention can be used in the form of salts or acids or a mixture of both depending on the pH of use.
  • the compound of the present invention is obtained from malic acid or from one of its derivatives or analogs as starting material.
  • malic acid as one of the starting materials leads advantageously to a manufacture process that is simple and presenting a hight yield as described below.
  • tartric acid the 2, 3-dihydroxybutanedioic acid
  • developped formula V the 2, 3-dihydroxybutanedioic acid
  • the object of the present invention is also a topical composition, cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical, characterized in that it comprises the compound as recited above in a physiologically acceptable medium, the use of this composition in cosmetic or dermopharmacy to improve the general condition of the skin, for example to treat the intrinsic and extrinsic cutaneous signs of ageing, to treat skin sagging, to improve the tonicity, firmness, elasticity of skin, to treat cutaneous atrophy, to improve the density of the dermis and epidermis, to treat cutaneous dehydration, to treat hair loss, to stimulate the expansion of adipose tissues, to lighten the skin, for treating glycation of molecules in the skin, to treat acne, to treat skin degradation due to the effects of oxidation and to treat inflammatory conditions.
  • applications can be offered in ranges including moisturizers, cleansers, anti-aging, antioxidant, protective, restorative (hands, feet, lips), outlines (face, eyes, neck, lips), makeup care for the skin and its appendages, including eyelashes, lip products, solar products, remodeling, plumping, refiling (eg of the hands, bust, breasts), hair care, etc.
  • composition is useful for preventing or treating the cutaneous signs of ageing, preventing or treating cutaneous dehydration, for improving the suppleness of skin, for treating the loss of firmness, for treating fine lines and wrinkles, for stimulating the expansion of adipose tissue and for lightening the skin.
  • the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical composition of the invention may incorporate one or more additional active ingredients, to provide advantageously a cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical product with a wider range of properties or to enhance the properties of the compounds of the present invention.
  • Additional active ingredients may for example be selected from the lightening, anti-redness, sunscreens, moisturizing, humectants, exfoliating, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and fine lines, stimulating the collagen and/or elastin synthesis, volumizing, elastic properties improving, anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidants, anti-free radical, or propigmenting depigmenting agents, depilatories, anti-regrowth or promoting the growth agents, peptides, vitamins etc.
  • These active ingredients may be obtained from plant materials such as plant extracts or products from plant cells culture or fermentation.
  • the compound of the invention can be combined with at least one of compounds selected from compounds of vitamin B3, niacinamide compounds like or tocopherol, retinol, hexamidine, ⁇ -lipoic acid, resveratrol or DHEA or N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-O-hexadecyl, Pal-VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO:7), Pal-KTTKS (SEQ ID NO:8), Pal-GHK, Pal-KMO2K and Pal-GQPR (SEQ ID NO:9) peptides, which are active ingredients used in conventional cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical topical compositions.
  • compounds of vitamin B3, niacinamide compounds like or tocopherol, retinol, hexamidine, ⁇ -lipoic acid, resveratrol or DHEA or N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-O-hexadecyl Pal-VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO:7), Pal-
  • physiological medium means according to the present invention, without limitation, an aqueous or alcoholic solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous gel, a serum, a dispersion of vesicles.
  • compositions or compounds are suitable for use in contact with mucous membranes, nails, scalp, hairs, hair and skin of mammals and more particularly human without risk of toxicity of incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and others.
  • the compound of the invention When present in a composition, the compound of the invention is present in amounts ranging from 0.000001% to 15% compared to the total weight of the composition, more preferably between 0.0001% and 5%, depending of the destination of the composition and the desired effect more or less pronounced.
  • composition of the invention consisting simply of the compound of the invention and of an excipient (the physiologically medium) used as solubilizer, for example, forming an "active ingredient" for the future preparation of a cosmetic composition
  • amount of the compound will be comprised between 0.00005% and 0.05%.
  • the choice of the excipient of the composition is made according to the constraints related to the compounds of the invention (stability, solubility, etc.) and if according to the dosage form then considered for the composition.
  • the compounds of the invention have solubility in water that varies according to their exact chemical nature.
  • the compounds of the invention can be incorporated into compositions using an aqueous solution, and those that are not soluble in water can be solubilized with cosmetically, pharmaceutically or physiologically acceptable conventional solubilizers, for example and without limiting this list: ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerin, butylene glycol, or polyethylene glycol or any combination.
  • emulsifiers and for example emulsifiers containing phosphorus such as phosphate esters.
  • CTFA International cosmetic ingredient dictionary & handbook (13th Ed. 2010) (published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C.) describes a non limited wide variety of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients usually used in the skin care industry that can be used as additional ingredients in the compositions of the present invention.
  • these ingredient classes include, but are not limited to: healing agents, skin anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-atrophy agents, skin moisturizing agents, skin smoothing agents, antibacterial agents, pesticides anti parasitic agents, antifungal agents, fungicidal agents, fungistatic agents, bactericidal agents, bacteriostatic agents, antimicrobial agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-pruriginous agents, external anesthetic agents, antiviral agents, keratolytic agents, free radicals scavengers, antiseborrheic agents, antidandruff agents, the agents modulating the differentiation, proliferation or pigmentation of the skin and agents accelerating penetration, desquamating agents, melanin synthesis stimulating or inhibiting agents, whitening or depigmenting agents, propigmenting agents, self-tanning agents, NO-synthase inhibiting agents, antioxidants, free radical scavengers and/or agents against atmospheric pollution, reactive carbonyl species scavengers,
  • the additional ingredient can be selected from the group consisting of sugar amines, glucosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetyl mannosamine, galactosamine, N-acetyl galactosamine, vitamin B3 and its derivatives, niacinamide, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, phytosterols, salicylic acid compounds, hexamidines, dialkanoyl hydroxyproline compounds, soy extracts and derivatives, equol, isoflavones, flavonoids, phytantriol, farnesol, geraniol, peptides and their derivatives, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, and hexapeptides and their derivatives, KTTKS (SEQ ID NO:4), PalKTTKS (SEQ ID NO:8), carnos
  • the additional ingredients useful herein can be categorized by the benefit they provide or by their postulated mode of action. However, it is to be understood that the additional ingredients useful herein can in some instances provide more than one benefit or operate via more than one mode of action. Therefore, classifications herein are made for the sake of convenience and are not intended to limit the additional ingredients to that particular application or applications listed.
  • betain betain, glycerol, Actimoist Bio 2TM (Active organics), AquaCacteenTM (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), AquaphylineTM (Silab), AquaregulKTM (Solabia), CarcilineTM (Greentech), CodiavelaneTM (Biotech Marine), DermafluxTM (Arch Chemicals, Inc), Hydra'FlowTM (Sochibo), Hydromoist LTM (Symrise), RenovHyalTM (Soliance), SeamossTM (Biotech Marine), EssenskinTM (Sederma), Moist 24TM (Sederma), ArgirelineTM (trade name of the acetyl hexapeptide-3 of Lipotec), spilanthol or an extract of Acmella oleracea known under the name Gatuline ExpressionTM ( EP 1722864 ), an extract of Boswellia serrata known under the name BoswellinTM, Deepaline PVBTM (Seppic), Syn-AKETM
  • extracts of Ivy in particular English Ivy (Hedera Helix), of Chinese thorowax ( Bupleurum chinensis ) , of Bupleurum Falcatum , of arnica (Arnica Montana L), of rosemary ( Rosmarinus officinalis N ), of marigold ( Calendula officinalis ), of sage ( Salvia officinalis L ), of ginseng ( Panax ginseng ), of ginko biloba, of St.-John's-Wort ( Hyperycum Perforatum ), of butcher's-broom ( Ruscus aculeatus L ), of European meadowsweet ( Filipendula ulmaria L ) , of big- flowered Jarva tea ( Orthosiphon Stamincus Benth ), of algae ( Fucus Vesiculosus ), of birch ( Betula alba
  • Camelia sinensis of Imperata cylindrical , of Glaucium Flavum , of Cupressus Sempervirens , of Polygonatum multiflorum, of loveyly hemsleya , of Sambucus Nigra , of Phaseolus lunatus , of Centaurium , of Macrocystis Pyrifera , of Turnera Diffusa , of Anemarrhena asphodeloides , of Portulaca pilosa , of Humulus lupulus , of Coffea Arabica and of Ilex Paraguariensis .
  • Extraction from the plant may be performed using conventional engineerings such as phenolic extraction, from any part of the plant such as the flower, seed, fruit, root, tubercle, leaf, pericarp and preferably rhizome.
  • the extraction solvents may be selected from amongst water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerine, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, polyethylene glycol, methyl and/or ethyl esters, diglycols, cyclical polyols, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, alcohols (methanol, ethanol, propanol, and butanol) or any mixture of these solvents.
  • Plant extracts according to the present invention may also be obtained by other processes such as maceration, simple decoction, lixiviation, reflux extraction, super-critical extraction with CO 2 , ultrasound or microwave extraction or counter-current techniques, or by plant cell culture engineerings and/or fermentation. This list is not restrictive.
  • Suitable peptides can include, but are not limited to, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, and hexa- peptides and derivatives thereof.
  • the composition comprises from about 1x10-7% to about 20%, more preferably from about 1x10-6% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 1x10-5% to about 5%, by weight of additional peptide.
  • peptide refers to peptides containing ten or fewer amino acids and their derivatives, isomers, and complexes with other species such as metal ions (e.g., copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, and the like).
  • metal ions e.g., copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, and the like.
  • peptide refers to both naturally occurring and synthesized peptides. Also useful herein are naturally occurring and commercially available compositions that contain peptides.
  • Suitable dipeptides for use herein include but are not limited to Carnosine (beta-AH), YR, VW, NF, DF, KT, KC, CK, KP, KK or TT.
  • Suitable tripeptides for use herein include, but are not limited to RKR, HGG, GHK, GKH, GGH, GHG, KFK, GKH, KPK, KMOK, KMO2K or KAvaK.
  • Suitable tetrapeptides for use herein include but are not limited to RSRK (SEQ ID NO:1), GQPR (SEQ ID NO:2) or KTFK (SEQ ID NO:3).
  • Suitable pentapeptides include, but are not limited to KTTKS (SEQ ID NO:4).
  • Suitable hexapeptides include but are not limited to GKTTKS (SEQ ID NO:5), VGVAPG (SEQ ID NO:6) and of the type disclosed in FR 2854897 and US 2004/0120918 .
  • Suitable peptides for use herein include, but are not limited to lipophilic derivatives of peptides, preferably palmitoyl derivatives, and metal complexes of the aforementioned (e.g., copper complex of the tripeptide His-Gly-Gly).
  • Preferred dipeptide derivatives include N-Palmitoyl-beta-Ala-His, N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexadecylester (CALMOSENSINETM from SEDERMA, France, WO 9807744 , US 6,372,717 ).
  • Preferred tripeptide derivatives include N-Palmitoyl-Gly-Lys-His, (Pal-GKH from SEDERMA, France, WO 0040611 ), Pal-KMO2K, a copper derivative of His-Gly-Gly sold commercially as lamin, from Sigma, lipospondin (N-Elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys) and its analogs of conservative substitution, N-Acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH2 (Peptide CK+), N-Biot-Gly-His-Lys (N-Biot-GHK from SEDERMA, WO0058347 ) and derivatives thereof.
  • Suitable tetrapeptide derivatives for use herein include, but are not limited to N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (SEQ ID NO:9) (from SEDERMA, France), suitable pentapeptide derivatives for use herein include, but are not limited to N-Palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser (SEQ ID NO:8) (available as MATRIXYLTM from SEDERMA, France, WO 0015188 and US 6,620, 419 ) N-Palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-X with X Met (SEQ ID NO: 10) or Leu (SEQ ID NO: 11) or mixtures thereof.
  • Suitable hexapeptide derivatives for use herein include, but are not limited to N-Palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly (SEQ ID NO:7) and derivatives thereof.
  • compositions commercially available containing a tripeptide or a derivative include Biopeptide-CLTM by SEDERMA ( WO0143701 ), MaxilipTM by SEDERMA ( WO 0143701 ), BiobustylTM by SEDERMA.
  • the compositions commercially available preferred sources of tetrapeptides include RIGINTM ( WO0043417 ), EYELISSTM ( WO03068141 ), MATRIXYLTM RELOADED, and MATRIXYL 3000TM which contain between 50 and 500 ppm of palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg (SEQ ID NO:9), and carrier, proposed by SEDERMA, France ( US2004/0132667 ).
  • peptides can be mentioned as well as additional active ingredients: VialoxTM, Syn-akeTM or Syn-CollTM (Pentapharm), Hydroxyprolisilane CNTM (Exsymol), ArgirelineTM, LeuphasylTM, AldenineTM, TrylgenTM, EyeserylTM, SerilesineTM or DecorinylTM (Lipotec), CollaxylTM or QuintescineTM (Vincience), BONT-L-PeptideTM (Infinitec Activos), CytokinolTMLS (Laboratoires Serobi GmbH/Cognis), KollarenTM, IP2000TM or MelipreneTM (Institut Eurofugen de Biologie Cellulaire), NeutrazenTM (Innovations), ECM-ProtectTM (Atrium Innovations), Timp-PeptideTM or ECM ModulineTM (Infinitec Activos),
  • compositions of the present invention are generally prepared by conventional methods such as are known in the art of making topical and oral compositions and compositions for injection. Such methods can typically be conducted in one or more steps, with or without heating, cooling, and the like.
  • compositions according to the invention may be in any galenic form such creams, lotions, milk or cream ointments, gels, emulsions, dispersions, solutions, suspensions, cleansers, foundations, anhydrous preparations (sticks, in particular lipbalm, body and bath oils), shower and bath gels, shampoos and scalp treatment lotions, cream or lotion for care of skin or hair, make-up removing lotions or creams, sun-screen lotions, milks or creams, artificial suntan lotions, creams or milks, pre-shave, shave or aftershave creams, foams, gels or lotions, make-up, lipsticks, mascaras or nail varnishes, skin "essences,” serums, adhesive or absorbent materials, transdermal patches, or powders, emollient lotion, milk or cream, sprays, oils for the body and the bath, foundation tint bases, pomade, emulsion, colloid, compact or solid suspension, pencil, sprayable or bros
  • compositions in accordance with the invention include cosmetics, personal care products and pharmaceutical preparations.
  • the present invention may also be applied on animal skin and/or appendages.
  • Cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also be for orodental use, for example, toothpaste.
  • the compositions may contain the usual adjuvants and additives for compositions for oral use and, in particular, surfactants, thickening agents, moisturizing agents, polishing agents such as silica, various active substances such as fluorides, particularly sodium fluoride, and, possibly, sweetening agents such as saccharin sodium.
  • the compound according to the present invention may be in the form of solution, dispersion, emulsion, paste, or powder, individually or as a premix or in vehicles individually or as a premix in vectors such as macro-, micro-, or nanocapsules, macro-, micro- or , nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macro-, micro-, or nanoparticles or macro-, micro or nanosponges, spores or exines, micro or nano emulsions or adsorbed on organic polymer powders, talcs, bentonites, or other inorganic or organic supports.
  • vectors such as macro-, micro-, or nanocapsules, macro-, micro- or , nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macro-, micro-, or nanoparticles or macro-, micro or nanosponges, spores or exines, micro or nano emulsions or adsorbed on organic polymer
  • the compound according to the present invention may be used in any form whatsoever, in a form bound to or incorporated in or absorbed in or adsorbed on macro-, micro-, and nanoparticles, or macro-, micro-, and nanocapsules, for the treatment of textiles, natural or synthetic fibres, wools, and any materials that may be used for clothing or underwear for day or night intended to come into contact with the skin, handkerchiefs or cloths, to exert their cosmetic effect via this skin/textile contact and to permit continuous topical delivery.
  • the present invention also concerns a topical treatment process to improve the general condition of the skin involving topical application to the skin of an effective amount of the composition of the invention as recited above. More specifically:
  • composition according to the invention may be applied locally onto areas of the face, lips, neck, neckline, hands, feet, head or body.
  • One of the major advantages of the present invention resides in the ability whenever necessary or desirable to be able to apply local selective "gentle" treatments through this topical, non-invasive method of application.
  • anti-wrinkle use for example it may be applied very locally using a syringe or micro-canula.
  • composition containing the compound according to the invention intended to be injected subcutaneously.
  • the treatment method according to the invention can be combined with one or more other treatment methods targeting the skin such as luminotherapy, aromatherapy or heat treatments.
  • devices with several compartments or kits may be proposed to apply the method described above which may include for example and non-restrictively, a first compartment containing a composition including the invention lipo-phosphated compound, and in a second compartment a composition containing another active ingredient and/or excipient, the compositions contained in the said first and second compartments in this case being considered to be a combination composition for simultaneous, separate or stepwise use in time, particularly in one of the treatment methods recited above.
  • the free carboxylic function is esterified with 1-tetradecanol, in the presence of DCC (Dicyclohexylcarbodiimide) and of a catalytic amount of DMAP3 (4-dimethylaminopyridine).
  • DCC Dicyclohexylcarbodiimide
  • DMAP3 4-dimethylaminopyridine
  • the cetal (ref 7) is hydrolyzed in an acid medium to conduct to the acid.
  • the isolated product yield is of 71 % after purification and cristallisation in cyclohexane.
  • the free alcohol function is phosphated with phosphoric acid in the presence of a catalytic amount of dibutyltin dilaurate, at 80°C.
  • the desired lipo-phospho-malate (ref 2) is obtained with a 46 % yield in the form of a white solid.
  • This active ingredient is for the cosmetic industry for the preparation of cosmetic products, such as creams, gels, etc.
  • the solid Lipo-Phosphomalate is first solubized in a mixture of sugar esters (laurate and/or oleate sorbitan) and of phosphated esters (oleyl and/or dioleyl phosphates), then dispersed in an emollient.
  • sugar esters lactrate and/or oleate sorbitan
  • phosphated esters oleyl and/or dioleyl phosphates
  • the amount of Lipo-Phosphomalate in this active ingredient will be of about 200 ppm.
  • Filaggrin is a protein found in the upper part of the epidermis. It is a key factor in water homeostasis by virtue of its crucial role in forming and then stabilizing the cutaneous barrier (stratum corneum), and in crating the Natural Moisterising Factor (NMF).
  • NMF Natural Moisterising Factor
  • Filaggrin is produced by the granular layer - the last viable of the epidermis - in the form of a polymeric precursor: the profilaggrin.
  • the latter is a chain of 1 to 12 filaggrin monomers. Its phosphorylation rate controls its insolubility, lysis and packing in kertohyalin granules with loricrine and keratins 1 and 10.
  • profilaggrin will undergo:
  • Good hydration of the epidermis is a complex phenomenon involving maintaining a high level of expression of different proteins: filaggrin, TGase, loricrine, matriptase and caspase 14. This is achieved through the application on human keratinocytes in culture or on skin explants.
  • the positive control used strongly induced profilaggrin and filaggrin synthesis in cells.
  • increasing concentrations of the solubilised Lipo-Phosphomalate stimulated this production in a dose-dependent manner.
  • An increase of +259% ( p ⁇ 0.01 ) was recorded in the presence of 5 ppm of solubilised Lipo-Phosphomalate compared to control.
  • the skin segments were lightly stripped in advance (4 successive strips), in order to improve the active penetration, and then are subjected to the same procedure as before.
  • filaggrin formation is not the only phenomenon to be promoted by the solubilised Lipo-Phosphomalate, but that the enzymes, which produce the wetting component on cleaving filaggrin, are also stimulated, and in similar proportions.
  • Transglutaminase was studied using the transcription by m-RNA, qRT-PCR and regarding activity by enzymological assay.
  • transglutaminase is induced by the solubilised Lipo-Phosphomalate, both at transcriptional level (m-RNA) and at the protein activity level. In both cases, the increase is close to +100% ( p ⁇ 0,01 ).
  • the skin is made up of several layers of cells protecting us from external agressions by various means.
  • the main mean among them is a lipid barrier in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of skin, consisting mainly of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids allowing the skin to retain its hydration.
  • ceramides the outermost layer of skin
  • cholesterol and fatty acids allowing the skin to retain its hydration.
  • cholesterol quantification was carried out using high-performance thin-layer chromatography (or HPTLC).
  • Lipo-Phosphomalate induces the production of chorlesterol and of various classes of ceramides in keratinocytes during their differentiation. This lipid production by the Lipo-Phosphomalate was not observed in fibroblasts or melanocytes. It is therefore a specific effect related to the metabolism of keratinocyte during its differentiation.
  • hyaluronic acid is its role as a moisturizer agent for the skin epidermis and also as anti-wrinkle agent, because participating to the elasticity of the skin.
  • Hyaluronic acid is present in the intercellular spaces of the basal and spineous layers, mainly of the medium spineous layer, but absent from the upper layers (granular and horny). Its hydration role is therefore positioned at the lower layers of the epidermis, unlike the previously mentioned effects that were located in the upper layers of the epidermis.
  • a dose-dependent and significant stimulation of the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in the human keratinocyte in the presence of the Lipo-Phosphomalate of the invention is observed.
  • a dose dependent and significant stimulation of the keratinocyte CD44 in the presence of the Lipo-Phosphomalate of the invention is observed.
  • the laminin molecule is important at the level of the dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ). It ensures proper anchoring of basal keratinocytes to the basement membrane and is responsible for the suppleness of the epidermis. In aged cells it is no longer replaced as efficiently as in young cells, hence the need to stimulate the biosynthesis for an improved renewal.
  • DEJ dermo-epidermal junction
  • a dose dependent and significant stimulation of the laminin synthesis in the keratinocyte in the presence of the Lipo-Phosphomalate of the invention is observed.
  • Lipo-Phosphomalate of the invention particularly well suited for anti-aging, in particular for anti-wrinkles and firming applications.
  • Normal human fibroblasts are cultivated in MW24 plates for 24 hours.
  • the cells are contacted or not with the Lipo-Phosphomalate of the invention at various concentrations for 7 days.
  • the synthesis of collagen I produced by the cells is then quantified by immunolabeling fixed on the layers using a specific antibody. Quantification by image analysis is then performed on the photos. TGF- ⁇ 1 is used as positive control.
  • Lipo-Phosphomalate of the invention particularly well suited for preventing and repairing skin damages, comprising loss of the mechanical properties of the skin (loss of firmness), fine lines and wrinkles.
  • Some cosmetic compounds are designed to encourage the installation of the subcutaneous fat for better aesthetics and greater volume.
  • increase adipocyte differentiation was considered in in vitro tests, (with the key marker G3PDH) on pre-adipocyte cultures and, similarly, lipogenesis stimulation in these cultures was considered.
  • 3T3-L1 cells are sowed and cultivated for 4 days (multiplication).
  • a differentiation phase incubation with a classic differentiation mixture
  • a maturation phase with a maturation mixture
  • cells were washed, fixed and coloured with oil red.
  • the cell layers were photographed digitally and the red color is quantified by image analysis.
  • the surface percentages of red oil reported in the table below, were established compared to untreated control cells, and the test validated by comparison to pioglytazone (10 ⁇ M), positive control for stimulation of differentiation.
  • the Lipo-Phosphomalate can promote body volume by a cosmetic lipofilling-like effect.
  • the Lipo-Phosphomalate of the invention is therefore useful for lightening the skin
  • Lipo-Phosphomalate of the present invention is an agent able to act on different levels: hydration, mechanical properties (firmness, suppleness), fines lines and wrinkles, give or return volume of the dermis, depigmentation of age spots...
  • the compound of the invention can be preconized for one these properties or as a global anti-ageing agent.
  • the active ingredient described in point 1/ above (containing about 200 ppm of the Lipo-Phosphomalate) is used below to formulate cosmetic products.
  • Idealift® contains the lipodipeptide N-acetyl-Tyrosyl-Arginyl-O-hexadecyl ester. It is an active able to stimulate the synthesis of elastic fibers and has an anti-gravity effect on the face skin.
  • the lipopeptide is also known for its calming and myorelaxing properties.
  • Inclusion and exclusion criteria specific to the study Women and men with dry skin or skin prone to dryness were included. The women had to present constant hormone levels for 3 months preceding the test and during the test. Only cosmetic products provided during the study were to be used. The application of treatments was, therefore, prohibited two weeks before the study and for the duration of the study.
  • the cream was applied to a forearm and the placebo cream to the opposite arm.
  • the signal recorded decreases very quickly with depth.
  • the stratum corneum and superficial epidermis are mostly explored with the Corneometer®, which in theory, can record to a maximum depth of 100 ⁇ m.
  • the superficial epidermis and deep epidermis tend to be explored with the MoistureMeter-DTM (probe XS5), which nevertheless has a theoritical maximum depth of 500 ⁇ m.
  • a first measure was initially carried out to assess the restructuring and re-balancing effect of the Lipo-Phosphomalate on the face.
  • Table 15 show the marked effect of the cream containing the Lipo-Phosphomalate compared to the placebo cream this only after 21 days of application.
  • Table 15 Improvement in skin homeostasis, measurements with the Corneometer®, following application of the cream containing the Lipo-Phosphomalate on the face.
  • Cream containing 5.1 ppm of Lipo-Phosphomalate PLACEBO Cream containing 5.1 ppm of Lipo-Phosphomalate PLACEBO Mean 35.30 ⁇ 9.32 36.08 ⁇ 8.88 38.88 ⁇ 9.67 33.98 ⁇ 11.69 Difference Cream of the invention/ Placebo* -0.78; nsd 4.90 ; p ⁇ 0.02 Change (%) Cream of the invention/Placebo ( ⁇ max*) -2.2% +14.40% ( ⁇ 41 . 5 %) Differences +16.6%, p ⁇ 0.02 ( ⁇ 44.0%) *: Max: mean of the 9 best responders nsd: non significant difference; Student's t test
  • the results show that, in men, the increase between T0 and T2 months was + 38 . 4 % on average ( p ⁇ 0.01 compared to the placebo; table 17). This variation amounted + 59 . 0 % for the 9 best responders.
  • Cream containin g 5.1 ppm of Lipo-Phospho malate PLACEBO Cream containing 5.1 ppm of Lipo-Phospho malate PLACEBO Cream containing 5.1 ppm of Lipo-Phospho malate PLACEBO Mean 42.23 ⁇ 9.08 43.00 ⁇ 8.17 57.89 ⁇ 12.16 44.12 ⁇ 11.07 47.30 ⁇ 12.97 42.65 ⁇ 11.44 Difference Cream containing the lipo-phosphomalate vs.
  • Placebo -0.77; nsd +13.77; p ⁇ 0.01 +4.64; p ⁇ 0.01 % change Cream containing the lipo-phosphomalate vs. Placebo -1.8% + 31 . 2 % +10.9% ( ⁇ +24.5%)* % change T2 months + 1 week vs. T0 +12.7% p ⁇ 0.01 ( ⁇ +27.1%)* ()*: 1/2 panel 14 best responders.
  • Placebo -0.75; nsd 11.23; p ⁇ 0.01 8.32; p ⁇ 0.01 % change Cream containing the lipo-phosphomalate vs. Placebo -1.8% + 28 . 4 % 22.8% ( ⁇ 34.7%)* T2 months + 1 week vs. T0 +24.6%; p ⁇ 0.01 ( ⁇ +35.2%)* ()*: 1/2 panel 14 best responders.
  • hydrolipid skin barrier The establishing and maintaining of the hydrolipid skin barrier are essential for the organism. In the assay reported below, the re-establishment of this barrier was assessed after rupture triggered by repeated strippings.
  • transepidermal water loss (or TEWL) of the forearm was measured using the Vapometer® (Delfin), a device using a closed chamber. A series of strippings was then carried out in a controlled manner in an attempt to slightly disrupt barrier homeostasis. The desctruction-mediated increase in TEWL was measured at steady-state. This method allows barrier resistance to be evaluated.
  • Vapometer® Selfin
  • An original measurement of the condition of the skin barrier can be obtained by measuring the wettability of the skin.
  • a drop of water deposited on the skin can interact with the skin in a totally different manner depending on the condition and, therefore, the composition, of the barrier.
  • the surface occupied by the drop significantly increased by +33.9% ( p ⁇ 0.05 ) on the site treated with the cream containing the Lipo-Phosphomalate, thus indicating better wettability.
  • the placebo site also exhibits increased wettability but which remains not significant.
  • the placebo cream probably supplied the outer layers of the stratum corneum with certain emollient properties, which affected the wettability result.
  • Lipo-Phosphomalate of the invention induced gene expression and caspase-14 synthesis in cultured keratinocytes and reconstructed epidermis.

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EP11706623.3A 2010-01-18 2011-01-17 New lipo-phosphated or lipo-sulphated compound, compositions comprising it and topical uses thereof Active EP2525774B1 (en)

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FR1050306A FR2955326B1 (fr) 2010-01-18 2010-01-18 Nouveau compose lipo-phosphate ou lipo-sulfate, compositions le contenant et utilisations cosmetiques et dermopharmaceutiques
PCT/IB2011/050196 WO2011086532A1 (en) 2010-01-18 2011-01-17 New lipo-phosphated or lipo-sulphated compound, compositions comprising it and topical uses thereof

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FR2974297B1 (fr) 2011-04-21 2013-10-04 Sederma Sa Nouvelle utilisation cosmetique ou therapeutique du tripeptide ghk
US9745543B2 (en) 2012-09-10 2017-08-29 Ecolab Usa Inc. Stable liquid manual dishwashing compositions containing enzymes
FR2998570B1 (fr) 2012-11-26 2016-12-02 Sederma Sa Peptides, compositions les comprenant et utilisations notamment cosmetiques propigmentantes
WO2014167464A1 (en) 2013-04-08 2014-10-16 Sederma Production method of meristematic cells of plantago lanceolata, composition comprising said cells or their cellular extract, and cosmetic, nutraceutical and dermatological uses
FR3031454B1 (fr) 2015-01-13 2018-05-11 Sederma Utilisation de cellules vegetales de leontopodium alpinum pour un traitement cosmetique et ingredient actif cosmetique correspondant
US11279816B2 (en) * 2019-06-18 2022-03-22 International Business Machines Corporation Flame retardants derived from biobased dicarboxylic acids

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FR2783169B1 (fr) 1998-09-15 2001-11-02 Sederma Sa Utilisation cosmetique ou dermopharmaceutique de peptides pour la cicatrisation et pour l'amelioration de l'aspect cutane lors du vieillissement naturel ou accelere (heliodermie, pollution)
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FR2791684B1 (fr) 1999-03-30 2001-05-11 Sederma Sa Composition cosmetiques ou dermopharmaceutiques contenant le tripeptide n-n-biotinyl-gly-his-lys pour prevenir, reduire ou supprimer la chute des cheveux ainsi que pour favoriser leur repousse
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EP2525774A1 (en) 2012-11-28
CN103717200A (zh) 2014-04-09
FR2955326B1 (fr) 2015-01-02
WO2011086532A1 (en) 2011-07-21
CN103717200B (zh) 2016-08-31
US20130004439A1 (en) 2013-01-03
BR112012017716A2 (pt) 2017-06-20
BR112012017716B1 (pt) 2018-02-06
US8603498B2 (en) 2013-12-10
FR2955326A1 (fr) 2011-07-22

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