EP2434921B1 - Piece of jewelry including a bezel immobilized in translation and in rotation on a wire-like mounting - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to the field of jewelery. It relates to a jewel such as a necklace, a bracelet, a pendant, an earring or a ring, comprising a wire support on which is mounted at least one kitten encasing a decorative element (for example a gemstone), as well as its manufacturing process.

Jewelry making is impossible to date as long as it is old. The collections of the Louvre show that certain classical techniques of setting precious stones on kittens, still used today, were already known under ancient Egypt. Similarly, donning kittens on wired media (including gold chains) is known for a long time, especially for the manufacture of necklaces and bracelets. The basic technique is simple, since it is enough to pierce the kitten of a hole by which one puts the wire support.

More complex are the techniques to immobilize the kittens on the wired support to prevent them from slipping, or even to turn around the axis of the support, when it is imperative to always have the same decorative face.

A common technique for immobilizing a kitten in translation is to mount stop rings on both sides of the kitten and crimp these rings on the wire support. This technique is however tedious, expensive because of the extra material, and the result is often unattractive.

Another technique is to inject a glue between the kitten and the wired support. The immobilization is then double: in translation and in rotation. However, it requires a contribution of material whose mechanical properties (including fatigue resistance) and physicochemical properties (including resistance to oxidation) may be uncertain and inconsistent over time. In addition, the final result can be unsightly, especially when the injection technique is not well controlled, or when the viscosity and the drying time of the glue are unsuitable (the glue being for example too fluid or contrary too viscous, the drying too slow, or on the contrary too fast).

These disadvantages are particularly significant in the manufacture of jewelery of complex structure or, especially, of small dimensions, because on a millimetric scale and below, the effects of the friction forces (capillarity) are greater than those of the gravity, and the Precise application of glues becomes extremely delicate. This is why the use of mechanical immobilization techniques is necessary.

European patent application no. EP 1 819 253 in the name of the applicant a technique of creating a bead on the wire support inside the kitten to immobilize it in translation and, as far as possible in rotation.

In practice, this technique is currently used on a large scale for the realization of jewelry including a wire made of a transparent thermoplastic material (type of fishing line) on which are put kittens enchâssant precious stones such as diamonds. After having threaded the thread into the kitten, the tip of a soldering iron is introduced into it, which is applied to the end of the thread. Under the effect of heat, a bead of spheroidal shape is formed at the end of the wire, inside the kitten. This operation can be repeated symmetrically, so that the two beads thus created, of greater diameter than the holes of the kitten, immobilize it on the wire in the desired position. This technique, combined with the interesting mechanical properties of the fishing line (both flexible in flexion, and resistant in tension, in torsion and in shear), makes possible the realization of jewels of complex forms (eg butterfly). Another jewel of the prior art is known from FR 455,439 .

The general satisfaction of the customers made possible the commercial success of these jewels. The attention of the inventors has, however, been drawn to certain cases of dissociation of the thread and the kitten, making possible at least the rotation of the same, or even - although more rarely - their separation.

• l'habitude de certaines clientes de manipuler sans cesse leur bijou en faisant tourner le chaton entre le pouce et l'index, les sollicitations cycliques induites faisant apparaître un jeu entre le chaton et le fil ;
• une perte de résistance du fil exposé à la lumière, le nylon étant réputé sensible aux ultraviolets ;
• un défaut potentiel de précision et de répétitivité dans la rupture du fil et la formation des bourrelets lors de l'application du fer à souder.

Studies conducted by the applicant identified three main causes of these incidents:

• the habit of some clients to constantly manipulate their jewel by turning the kitten between thumb and forefinger, induced cyclic solicitations showing a game between the kitten and the thread;
• a loss of resistance of the wire exposed to light, the nylon being deemed to be sensitive to ultraviolet light;
• a potential lack of precision and repeatability in the breaking of the wire and the formation of the beads during the application of the soldering iron.

The invention aims to remedy these drawbacks, by proposing a new manufacturing technique allowing, with increased reliability, to immobilize a kitten on a wired support.

• Un élément décoratif tel qu'une pierre précieuse ;
• Un chaton comprenant un corps percé d'au moins un trou définissant une direction longitudinale, le corps étant surmonté de griffes enchâssant ledit élément décoratif ;
• Un support filaire sur lequel est monté le chaton, ce support filaire traversant longitudinalement le corps du chaton au travers du trou et présentant un perçage localisé dans le corps ;
• Un élément d'arrêt oblong, qui s'étend transversalement dans le corps en traversant le perçage formé dans le support filaire, cet élément d'arrêt étant en prise avec des surfaces d'arrêt formées dans le corps.

For this purpose, the invention proposes, in a first aspect, a jewel comprising:

• A decorative element such as a gemstone;
• A kitten comprising a body pierced with at least one hole defining a longitudinal direction, the body being surmounted by claws encasing said decorative element;
• A wired support on which the kitten is mounted, this wired support longitudinally traversing the body of the kitten through the hole and having a bore located in the body;
• An elongated stop member extends transversely in the body through the bore formed in the wire support, said stop member being engaged with stop surfaces formed in the body.

In this way, the kitten is locked in translation and rotation relative to the wire support.

• Introduire le support filaire longitudinalement dans le chaton au travers du trou ;
• Introduire un élément d'arrêt oblong dans le corps au travers d'un perçage réalisé dans le support filaire et localisé dans le corps ;
• Placer l'élément d'arrêt en prise avec des surfaces d'arrêt formées dans le corps.
  D'autres objets et avantages de l'invention apparaîtront à la lumière de la description ci-après, faite en référence aux dessins ci-annexés, dans lesquels
• La figure 1 est une vue de dessus en perspective montrant un chaton percé de trou pour son montage sur un support filaire ;
• La figure 2 est une vue en perspective de dessous du chaton de la figure 1 ;
• Les figures 3 à 9 sont des vues en perspective en coupe partielle montrant différentes étapes de fabrication d'un bijou une technique conforme à l'invention ;
• La figure 10 est une vue partielle de dessus montrant un exemple de collier pouvant être réalisé au moyen d'une technique conforme à l'invention ;
• La figure 11 est une vue en perspective montrant un détail du collier de la figure 10.

According to a second aspect, the invention proposes a method of producing a jewel comprising at least one kitten comprising a body pierced with at least one hole defining a longitudinal direction, the body being surmounted by claws encasing said decorative element, and at least one wired support, the method comprising the steps of:

• Insert the wire support longitudinally into the kitten through the hole;
• Introducing an oblong stop element into the body through a bore made in the wire support and located in the body;
• Place the stopper into engagement with stop surfaces formed in the body.
  Other objects and advantages of the invention will become apparent in the light of the description below, made with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:
• The figure 1 is a perspective view from above showing a kitten pierced with a hole for mounting it on a wired support;
• The figure 2 is a perspective view from below of the kitten of the figure 1 ;
• The Figures 3 to 9 are perspective views in partial section showing different stages of manufacture of a jewel a technique according to the invention;
• The figure 10 is a partial view from above showing an example of a collar that can be achieved by means of a technique according to the invention;
• The figure 11 is a perspective view showing a detail of the necklace of the figure 10 .

On the figure 1 is represented an object 1 worked entering the composition of a jewel 2 such as necklace, bracelet, earring, ring, etc. This object 1 comprises a kitten 3 surmounted by a decorative element 4 , in this case a precious stone cut such as diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald, aquamarine, etc.

The kitten 3 is preferably made of a precious metal such as platinum, gold (yellow or white), silver. It comprises a hollow body 5 defining a cavity 6. The body 5 has in this case a square section, and comprises four flat faces 7 substantially parallel in pairs. At an upper end, the body 5 is surmounted by four claws 8 which protrude from the corners of the body 5, at the four junctions between the faces 7. The stone 4 has an upper portion 9 or crown, on which the claws 8 are supported, and a lower portion 10 or cylinder head, which is supported on an upper edge 11 of the body 5 and extends partially into the cavity 6.

The body 5 is pierced with at least one pair of holes 12 of circular profile, made in at least two faces 7 vis-à-vis. In this case, the body 5 is pierced with two pairs of holes 12, 13 (four holes in total), a hole being made in each face 7.

The two coaxial holes 12 of a first pair, whose common axis L defines a longitudinal direction, are pierced in two parallel faces 7 facing each other, while the two coaxial holes 13 , whose common axis T defines a transverse direction perpendicular to the longitudinal direction L , are drilled in the other two faces 7, also parallel is vis-à-vis.

The body 5 has, at its upper end, a first opening 14 providing a passage for the cylinder head 10 and, at an opposite lower end, a second opening 15, which provides access (in particular visual but also mechanical, by means of tools correctly sized) inside the cavity 6.

To fix ideas, note that, according to one embodiment, the kitten 3 has an overall width (distance between parallel faces 7 ) of 2.2 mm (22 tenths of mm) and an overall height (of the end lower than the top of the claws 8 ) by 2.5 mm (25 tenths), for a diamond stone of 0.04 carat (diameter 2.2 mm); the holes 7 have a diameter of 0.4 mm (4 tenths).

For the realization of a jewel 2, this kitten 3 is mounted on a wired support 16 , hereinafter simply called wire. It is preferably a wire made of a transparent or translucent thermoplastic material, which can be colored but advantageously colorless. By way of example, it will be possible to use fishing wire of equal diameter, with play, to that of the holes (that is 4/10 mm in this case).

The most common materials for making fishing lines are polyamides (ie nylon). It is possible to use this material, the resistance of which is great but weakens however under the application of cyclic stresses (eg traction). It may therefore be preferable to opt for new materials, which tend to replace nylon in the production of fishing yarns. Examples include polyvinylidene fluoride or PVDF (PolyVinyliDene Fluoride), better known as Fluorocarbon. Compared with nylon, PVDF has the advantage, as a fluoropolymer, of offering increased resistance to temperature and ultraviolet variations. From a visual point of view, the PVDF also has a refractive index (about 1.33) lower than that of nylon (about 1.60), which makes it more transparent in appearance than this one. It is also conceivable to use nylon / fluorocarbon composite yarns or fiberglass.

As we will see, the kitten 3 is not simply mounted on the wire 16; it is also immobilized in translation and in rotation, as we shall see below.

We now describe a method of making a jewel 2, with reference to the Figures 3 to 9 .

We begin ( Figures 3 and 4 ) By drilling a hole 17 through the wire 16, perpendicularly to its axis, by means of a tool 18 type pointed tip, needle, forest or spin. This tool 18 has a pointed head 19, possibly provided with a helical cutting edge to carry out a removal of material, extended by a smooth cylindrical body 20 having the same diameter as the thread 16.

The bore 17 is made by depressing the tool 18 in the wire 16, possibly associated, at the beginning of the operation, with a rotation of the tool 18, for example when the head 19 is provided with a cutting edge to proceed with a removal of material. At the end of the operation, the body 20 of the tool 18 is depressed in the piercing primer thus created, to widen it to the desired diameter (that of the wire). No removal of material is achieved at this stage, the setting diameter of the bore 17 being performed by simply spacing the material. So, as we see on the figure 4 ; a bead 21 of material is formed on either side of the bore 17, perpendicular to its axis.

The thread 16 thus pierced is then introduced longitudinally into the kitten 3, through one of the holes 12 ( figure 5 ). The diameter of the hole 12 being equal, with the game, to that of the wire 16, the bead 21 momentarily creates a resistance, which can easily be overcome by pulling on the wire 16, the elasticity of which is sufficient for the bead 21 crushes and passes the hole 12.

Once this operation is complete, the wire 16 passes longitudinally through the body 5 of the kitten 3, through the two coaxial holes 12 facing each other, the piercing 17 in the wire 16 then being located in the cavity 6 (FIG. figure 6 ).

The wire 16 is longitudinally adjusted to place the bore 17 at the two other holes 13, and the wire 16 is rotated to orient the bore 17 transversely in the axis T of the holes 13 (FIG. figure 6 ).

An oblong stop element 22 is then transversely inserted into the body 5, through both holes 13 of transverse axis T and through the bore 17.

Once introduced, this stop element 22 extends transversely in the cavity 6 through the bore 17; it is engaged with the edges of the transverse holes 13 which form rotation stop surfaces of the element 22 around the longitudinal axis L and in longitudinal translation. In the manner of a pin, the stop element 22 thus mutually blocks the kitten 3 and the wire 16 both in longitudinal translation and rotation around the longitudinal axis L. In other words, the wire 16 and the stop element 22 together form a cross which ensures complete blocking of the kitten 3 on the wire 16.

The stop element 22 is preferably of cylindrical shape, of diameter equal (with the clearance) to that of the holes 13 and the piercing 17. It may be a metal rod, the length of which is equal to the distance separating the faces 7 of the body 5, so that in position the ends of the rod 22 are flush with these faces 7, the presence of the rod 22 then being almost invisible to the naked eye.

• sectionnée aux deux extrémités dépassant du corps 5, de sorte à faire affleurer ces extrémités et rendre ainsi l'élément 22 d'arrêt à peut près invisible à l'oeil nu (figure 9) ;
• sectionnée à une seule extrémité ou non sectionnée, lorsque la portion de fil utilisée est par ailleurs employée à titre de support pour d'autres chatons, ou lorsque cette portion de fil est une prolongation en boucle du fil 16 support.

However, according to a preferred embodiment, the stop element 22 consists of a portion of the same type of wire 16 as that used for mounting the kitten 3. According to the jewelry models that it is desired to manufacture, the portion of wire used to make the stop element 22 can be:

• sectioned at both ends protruding from the body 5, so as to flush these ends and thus make the element 22 stop can almost invisible to the naked eye ( figure 9 );
• cut at one end or not severed, when the portion of wire used is otherwise used as a support for other kittens, or when this portion of wire is a loop extension of the support wire 16 .

Partially represented on Figures 10 and 11 a necklace 2 with a pendant made by means of two intertwined threads, namely a primary thread 16 which supports a first kitten 3 through which it passes right through, and a secondary thread 16 'of which an upper end 22 forms an element of stopping through the primary wire 16 and blocking the kitten 3 in translation and rotation relative thereto. At a lower end, the secondary wire 16 ' supports a second kitten 3', the latter being locked in translation and rotation relative to the secondary wire by means of a stop member 22 ' which passes through the secondary wire 16' and is cut at its two ends so as not to exceed the kitten 3 '.

The jewel 2 thus produced, as well as any other jewel made using this technique (having for example volutes, loops, etc.) has an increased resistance to external stresses (in particular torsion, bending, traction), braces tending to bring elastically kittens 3 in their original position.

Claims (10)

1. Piece of jewellery (2), including:

   - a decorative element (4) such as a precious stone;

   - a bezel (3) including a body (5) bored with at least one hole (12) defining a longitudinal direction (L), the body (5) having claws (8) mounted thereon for setting said decorative element (4);

   - a support filament (16) on which the bezel (3) is mounted, said support filament (16) extending longitudinally through the body (5) of the bezel (3) and passing through the hole (12);
   this piece of jewellery (2) being characterized:

   - in that the support filament (16) has a bore (17) located in the body (5);

   - in that it further includes an oblong stopping element (22), which extends transversely in the body (5) while passing through the bore (17) formed in the support filament (16);

   - and in that the stopping element (22) is engaged with stopping surfaces (13) formed in the body (5).
2. Piece of jewellery (2) according to Claim 1, wherein the stopping surfaces are formed by the edges of holes (13) bored transversely in the body (5) of the bezel (3).
3. Piece of jewellery (2) according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the stopping element (22) is a portion of support filament (16).
4. Piece of jewellery (2) according to Claim 3, wherein another portion of the support filament (16) used for producing the stopping element (22) acts as a support filament (16) for another bezel (3).
5. Piece of jewellery (2) according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, wherein the support filament (16) is made of a transparent or translucent thermoplastic material.
6. Piece of jewellery (2) according to Claim 5, wherein the support filament (16) is of the fishing line type.
7. Method for making a piece of jewellery (2) including at least one bezel (3) including a body (5) bored with at least one hole (12) defining a longitudinal direction (L), the body (5) having claws mounted thereon for setting said decorative element (4), and at least one support filament (16), said method being characterized in that it includes the operations of:

   - introducing the support filament (16) longitudinally into the bezel (3) through the hole (12); introducing an oblong stopping element (22) into the body (5) through a bore (17) formed in the support filament (16) and located in the body (5);

   - placing the stopping element (22) into engagement with stopping surfaces formed in the body (5).
8. Method according to Claim 7, wherein the stopping element (22) is introduced into the body (5) through a pair of holes (13) bored transversely in the bezel (3), the edges of these holes (13) forming said stopping surfaces.
9. Method according to Claim 7 or 8, wherein an operation of boring the support filament (16) is performed before the operation of introducing the support filament (16) into the bezel (3).
10. Method according to any one of Claims 7 to 9, which includes a further operation of cutting the stopping element (22) on at least one side of the bezel (3).

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