EP2346488A2

EP2346488A2 - Polyamide-5 compounds in cosmetic preparations

Info

Publication number: EP2346488A2
Application number: EP09736569A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Alexander Filbry; Rainer Kröpke; Silke Heinecke; Alexandra Blohm; Jens Nielsen
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 2008-10-13
Filing date: 2009-10-12
Publication date: 2011-07-27
Also published as: WO2010043351A2; US20110268674A1; WO2010043351A3; DE102008051007A1; US8529921B2

Abstract

Polyamide-5 compounds exhibit an increase in the care and/or efficacy properties of cosmetic or dermatological preparations, such as waterproofness, long-term stability, skin moisture and stickiness. The preparations preferably comprise one or more care and/or active ingredients selected from the group consisting of UV filter substances, anti-wrinkle active ingredients, skin moisteners and/or lipids.

Description

Polyamide 5 compounds in cosmetic preparations

The invention includes the use of one or more polyamide-5 (Orgasol Caresse) to increase the care and / or active power of cosmetic or dermatological preparations, such as water resistance, long-term stability, skin moisture and stickiness.

Nylon is a 100% synthetic fiber that was first introduced in 1939 by Du Pont. Nylon has been adopted as a generic name for linear aliphatic polyamides. For example, nylon 4, nylon 11, etc. are chemically correct polyamide / polyamide fibers PA4, PA11.

The original nylon is chemically a PA66, i. a polycondensation product of hexane-1, 6-diamine and adipic acid.

In cosmetics, the nylon types 6, 11, 12 and 66 as well as nylon copolymers 12, 6, 66 are known. These nylon types have particular swelling properties, i. reduces the bulk density of cosmetic products, clouding properties, i. reduces the transparency and translucency of cosmetic agents and viscostatic properties, i. increases or decreases the viscosity of cosmetic products.

From the company Arkema the nylon types 6 - 14 are known under the trade names Orgasol® and Orgasol Caresse®. In the US 20050197446, US 20060041041 and US 20060205883 the Fa. Arkema the production of these types of polyamide, in particular PA 6, PA6-6, PA 11, PA 12, PA 6 - 12 and PA 6 -14 is described. Orgasol Caresse® represents the compounds according to INCI Polyamide-5, which can be used, for example, to increase the sun protection factor in cosmetic sunscreen products (parfums cosmetique, No. 198, December 2007, p.72).

Orgasol grades are available as ultra fine powders, sometimes with small particle sizes. The use is known in foundations, lipsticks, mascara, eye shadows and nail polishes as well as in gel cream, skin moisturizers, lotions, sunscreen preparations or after-shave formulations. The nylon 6 types are lipophilic and provide a silky skin feel that contained them

Preparations. The nylon 12 types are less lipophilic and impart a dry

Skin feel.

Orgasol Caresse®, also marketed as Orgasol Type 4000 EXD, is specifically designed for aqueous

Formulations have been developed. It comprises fine polyamide copolymer (6-12) powder with an average particle size of 10 microns. Orgasol Caresse® has a higher absorption capacity for both water and oil than other types of orgasol.

It thus allows the better dispersibility of the cosmetic preparations and gives the preparation a certain richness even at low oil phase.

Sunscreens include a UV filter that filters out certain UV rays from sunlight to protect the skin or hair from their harmful effects. Known UV filters are substances from the positive list of UV filters (Annex VII of the EC Cosmetics Directive) and are preferably used.

A measure of the UV protection performance in the context of the present invention is, for example, the sun protection factor (SPF or SPF).

The SPF (sun protection factor) (SPF) indicates the prolongation of the sun exposure, which is made possible by using the sunscreen. It is the ratio of erythema threshold with sunscreen and erythema threshold without sunscreen.

To test the UV-A protection performance, the IPD method is usually used (IPD = immediate pigment darkening). Here, similar to the determination of the sun protection factor, a value is determined which indicates by how much longer the skin protected with the sunscreen can be irradiated with UV-A radiation until the same pigmentation occurs as with the unprotected skin.

Another, Europe-wide established testing method is the Australian Standard AS / NZS 2604: 1997. The absorption of the preparation in the UV-A range is measured. To meet the standard, the formulation must absorb at least 90% of the UV-A radiation in the range of 320 to 360 nm. In general, the light absorption behavior of sunscreen filter substances is very well known and documented, especially since in most industrialized countries there are positive lists for the use of such substances, which apply quite strict standards to the documentation.

However, the use concentration of known sunscreen present sunscreen filter substances is often - especially in combination with other substances to be dissolved - limited. It therefore prepares certain formulation-technical difficulties to achieve higher sun protection factors or UV protection performance.

Especially the formulation of preparations with physical filters, such as TiO2, is difficult and leads to instabilities.

A further disadvantage is that sunscreens have often lost their protective effect due to the washing-off effect after contact with water, when bathing or swimming.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a sunscreen preparation which, in addition to a cosmetic acceptance, has an improved water resistance on the skin.

It was surprising and unforeseeable for a person skilled in the art that the use of one or more polyamide-5 compounds contributes to an increase in the care and / or active power of cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

Advantageously, the preparations comprise one or more care and / or active ingredients selected from the group of UV filter substances, anti-wrinkle active ingredients, skin moisturizers and / or lipids.

As a care or active power according to the invention is considered primarily the water resistance, skin moisturization, wrinkle reduction and long-term stability. The following substances, which are responsible for the respective effects, are cited as corresponding active or care substances.

Surprisingly, however, the active power can be increased by the addition of polyamide-5 compounds, or reduced with the same active power, the proportion of active or care substances. As is known, one or more polyamide-5 compounds can be used to increase the sun protection factor and / or the UV protection performance of cosmetic or dermatological light stabilizers containing at least one UV filter substance. However, it has surprisingly been found that one or more polyamide-5 compounds for increasing the water resistance of the preparation, in particular W / O or W / S emulsions containing sunscreens, can be applied to the human skin, thus also indirectly increasing the Contribute light protection performance of the preparation.

The increase in skin hydration by the use of one or more polyamide-5 compound in cosmetic or dermatological preparations comprising at least one skin moisturizer and / or polar lipid can also be observed.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations in the sense of the present invention do not leave a greasy or sticky impression on the skin and are extremely tolerated by the skin, as shown by the advantageous distribution of care and active ingredients in the preparation by means of polyamide 5 compounds.

The increase in the care and / or active power according to the invention means the increase in the care or active power caused by the care or active ingredients contained or compared to a preparation containing the same ingredients without the polyamide-5 compounds.

Orgasol Caresse® polyamide-5 compounds according to the invention is a fine polyamide copolymer (6-12) powder, which causes an improvement in the feel of the skin, especially in aqueous systems, especially O / W emulsions

The particle size is about 10 microns. Compared to the other orgasol types, Orgasol Caresse has a higher absorption capacity (both oil and water).

Orgasol Caresse has besides the improvement of the skin feeling further properties:

Improved dispersibility of the emulsion

Higher absorption capacity than the other types

Gives the emulsion a certain richness, even at low oil phase

Improved dispersibility of sunscreen pigments in sunscreen products Allows a soft focus effect

Compatible with higher concentrations of electrolytes

Compatible with ethanol

According to the invention, these compounds are referred to as polyamide-5 compounds.

The sunscreen preparations according to the invention may be composed as usual. Preferably, they comprise UV filter substances based on triazine derivatives. This UV filter, which is the structural motif

are known per se and are described, for example, in EP-A-775,698, EP-A-0 878 469 and EP-A-1 027 881.

With regard to the C ₃ axis of the triazine core of these compounds, both symmetrical substitution and unsymmetrical substitution are conceivable. In this sense symmetrically substituted s-triazines have three identical substituents R ¹ , R ² and R ³ , while asymmetrically substituted s-triazine derivatives consequently have different substituents, whereby the C ₃ symmetry is destroyed. For the purposes of the present invention, "unsymmetrical" is always understood to be unsymmetrical with respect to the C ₃ axis of the triazine base, unless expressly stated otherwise Unsymmetrically substituted s-triazine derivatives according to the invention are also simply referred to below as triazine derivatives.

Triazine derivatives according to the invention are therefore, for example, those which are described in EP-A-775,698:

All of the bis-resorcinyltriazines mentioned in this document, whether disclosed by generic or by specific formulas, are advantageous in the context of the present invention.

Most preferably, R ₄ and R _{5 are selected} from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups of 1 to 18 carbon atoms. The alkyl groups may in turn be advantageously substituted with silyloxy groups.

Ai is advantageously a substituted homo- or heterocyclic aromatic five-membered or six-membered ring.

For the purposes of the present invention, the following unsymmetrically substituted s-triazine compounds are very particularly advantageous:

wherein R _{6 represents} a hydrogen atom or a branched or unbranched alkyl group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4 -methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (INCI: aniso triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH and characterized by the following structure:

Another particularly advantageous unsymmetrically substituted triazine derivative in the context of the present invention is dioctylbutylamidotriazone (INCI: dioctylbutamidotriazone), which is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from 3V Sigma and is characterized by the following structural formula:

, 4-bis- (4'-di-neopentyl aminobenzalmalonate) -6- (4 "-butyl aminobenzoate) -s-triazine Also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention are:

2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -

1, 3,5-triazine sodium salt,

2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -

1, 3,5-triazine,

2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3,5-triazine,

2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (ethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1, 3, 5-triazine,

2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methylpyrrol-2-yl) -1, 3,5-triazine,

2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine,

2,4-bis - {[4- (2-methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3 _l 5-triazine and

2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1 ^l, r, 3', 5 ', 5', 5 ^I -Heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine.

The unsymmetrically substituted s-triazine derivatives according to the invention are advantageously incorporated in the oil phase of the cosmetic or dermatological formulations.

Further UV-A filter substance (s) of the preparations according to the invention is or are the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid

and their salts, preferably the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt

with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP from Haarmann & Reimer.

In addition, the UVA filter diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, which is available from BASF under the trade name Uvinul A Plus, may preferably be used according to the invention.

Furthermore, at least one UV filter substance can be selected from 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI : Bisoctyltriazol], which by the chemical structural formula

and available under the trade name Tinosorb® M from CIBA-Chemie GmbH.

Particularly advantageously, at least 2 of said UV filter substances are used together. Exemplary and advantageous combinations are:

2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine with phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt; Phenylene-1-bis-benzimidazyO-S.S'-S.S'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with 2,2'-methyl-bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) or

2,4-Bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine with 2,2'-methylene-bis - (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol).

Another embodiment of the present invention contains 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyl-oxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3,5-triazine (Tinosorb® S), phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt (Neo Heliopan® AP) and 2,2'-methylene bis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -phenol) (Tinosorb® M) together as UV filter substances.

The abovementioned UV filter substances are advantageously present overall in amounts of from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the preparations.

Further conventional UV filter substances which can be used in the preparations according to the invention (optional or in addition) are mentioned below:

Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B filters are z. B .:

3-Benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor [INCI: 4-methylbenzylidene camphor], marketed by Merck under the trade designation Eusolex 6300 and / or 3-benzylidene camphor;

4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably (2- ethylhexyl) 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate,

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di (2-ethylhexyl) 4-methoxybenzalmalonate, with respect to the C ₃ axis of the triazine core, symmetrically triazine derivatives, preferably 4.4 ^l , 4 "- (1, 3,5-triazine-2,4, 6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl) [INCI: Octyl Triazone], which is marketed by BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL® T 150,

Benzotriazole derivatives, preferably 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) and UV filters bound to polymers.

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filter substances are z. B .:

Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;

Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidenme- thyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

Further conventional UV-A filters which can be used in formulations according to the invention are, for example, derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl -3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. Advantageous UV-A filter substance is also 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), marketed by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ^® 1789 and from Merck under the trade name Eusolex ® 9020 is sold.

Also advantageous are 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, in particular the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt). which is also referred to as benzene-1, 4-di (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:

Advantageous filter substances which absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation, so-called broadband filters, are, for example, 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) or 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl] 1 - [(trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is represented by the chemical structural formula is marked.

Further, for example, certain salicylic acid derivatives such as 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (= octyl salicylate), Homomenthylsalicylat suitable as UV filter substances.

A further light protection filter substance according to the invention to be used advantageously is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is under the name Uvinul ^® N 539 available from BASF and is characterized by the following structure:

Furthermore, the preparations according to the invention, if present in the form of so-called oil-free cosmetic or dermatological preparations, preferably present, which contain a water phase and at least one UV filter substance which is liquid at room temperature as the further phase, may contain the following UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature.

Advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature are homomenthyl salicylate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester and 4-methoxycinnamic acid - isopentyl ester.

Homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: Homosalate) is characterized by the following structure:

2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: Octocrylene) is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ^® N 539 available and is characterized by the following structure:

2-Ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate) is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan OS and is characterized by the following structure:

4-Methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) is available, for example, from Hoffmann-La Roche under the trade name Parsol MCX and has the following structure:

Isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate) is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 and has the following structure:

The total amount of one or more UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations is advantageously selected from the range from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight , in each case based on the total weight of the preparations.

The list of said conventional UV filter substances which can be used in the context of the present invention is of course not intended to be limiting.

Due to the increase in light protection of the preparations according to the invention, it is advantageous that either higher SPF values are achieved with the preparations according to the invention in comparison to preparations with identical UV filter parts without polyamide-5 compounds or identical SPF values but then with reduced UV filter contents.

The increase in sunscreen performance by the polyamide-5 compounds is shown by the following comparative studies. Interestingly, the water resistance of the polyamide-5 compound contained UV sunscreen preparations is improved, as upcoming studies show.

Comparative Experiments - Test 27860; SPF and water resistance test Comparative Formulations:

methods:

SPF measurement:

The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is according to the regulations of the New

International SPF Method (2006) determined in vivo on human skin (COLIPA).

Definition: SPF = minimum erythemal dose (MED) quotient on protected and unprotected skin.

Photoprotective / water resistance measurement:

First the SPF is determined and on additional area SPF determination after every 20

Minutes of watering and 15 minutes drying time (2x20 min = water resistant, 4x20 min = extra water resistant, 18x20 min = water proof). Water resistance is present if the value after washing exceeds 50% of the SPF beforehand.

Results of sun protection value (SPF) and water resistance:

The addition of the polyamide-5 compounds makes it possible to achieve an unpredictable increase in the light protection performance of UV light protection preparations. Likewise, the water resistance of these preparations is increased by the addition of polyamide-5 compounds.

One or more polyamide-5 compounds (Orgasol Caresse) can thus be used to increase the sun protection factor and / or the UV protection performance of cosmetic or dermatological light stabilizers containing at least one UV filter substance.

One or more polyamide-5 compounds (Orgasol Caresse®) can be used in cosmetic or dermatological sunscreen formulations to increase the water resistance of the formulation on human skin.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may further contain cosmetic adjuvants and other active ingredients such as are commonly used in such preparations, for. Preservatives, preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, anti-foaming agents, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, Foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

Surprisingly, the following combinations with polyamide-5 compounds are extremely advantageous in cosmetic use. Thus, the combination of anti-wrinkle active ingredients with polyamide-5 compounds (Orgasol Caresse®) leads to an immediate effect in the topical application of the preparation according to the invention containing them.

Due to the filling of the wrinkles or wrinkles with the spherical polyamide-5 (Orgasol Caresse®) beads and the loading of these with anti-wrinkle active ingredients leads to a sustainable reduction of wrinkles and their formation directly at the site of action.

Further advantageous anti-wrinkling agents in the context of the present invention are natural active ingredients and / or derivatives thereof, such as. Alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, camosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, creatine, fumaric acid esters, ectoine and its derivatives, tea extracts, folic acid, arginine and its salts, taurine, and / or β-alanine. These active ingredients can be contained in a proportion of 0.001 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation in this.

Due to the content of polyamide-5 compounds (Orgasol Caresse®) and the associated good spreadability of the preparation on the skin, the proportion of low-spreading lipids can be reduced, thus further improving the skin feel, along with reduced stickiness and good spreadability on the skin.

As lipids it is possible in particular to choose C 12-15 alkyl benzoate,

Butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and all room temperature liquid UV filters as previously stated.

Furthermore, moisturizers or so-called moisturizers can be advantageously combined with polyamide-5 compounds.

Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances which give cosmetic or dermatological preparations the property of reducing the moisture release of the horny layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after application or spreading on the skin surface) and / or hydrating the horny layer positively to influence.

Preferably, the proportion of skin moisturizing agents, also called moisturizers, in the range of 5 to 15 wt.%, Based on the total mass of the preparation. Advantageous moisturizers for the purposes of the present invention are in particular glycerol. However, furthermore, lactic acid, butylene glycol, sorbitol, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gellable polysaccharides can be used as moisturizers. Particularly advantageous are, for example, short-chain hyaluronic acid (<50,000 daltons) and long-chain hyaluronic acid (> 50,000 daltons), chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registry number 178463-23-5 and z. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 of the company SOLABIA SA is available.

Polyamide 5 compounds lead to an astonishing improvement in skin moisturization in anhydrous oil preparations. While body oils are good for the care of dry skin, they have a drawback of inadequate moisturizing performance. This was also significantly improved due to the combination with polyamide-5 compounds.

Suitable oils are, in particular, the group of polar oils, for example from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can be selected, for example, advantageously from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such. Cocoglyceride, olive oil, sunflower oil, jojoba oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grapeseed oil, thistle oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like, as well as propylheptyl octanoate and / or diisopropyl sebacate.

In the context of the present invention, further advantageous polar oil components can furthermore be selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group consisting of phenethyl benzoate, 2-phenylethyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, phenyl trimethicone, cyclomethicone, dibutyl adipate, octyl palmitate, octyl cocoate, octyl isostearate, octyldodeceyl myristate, octyldodecanol, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n Butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2- Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, stearylheptanoate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, such as e.g. Eg jojoba oil, acetyltrifluoromethylphenylvalylglycine, acrylamidoammonium acrylate copolymer, aluminum magnesium hydroxide stearate, ammonium lactate, ammonium polyacrylate, ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate, arginine PCA, capryloyl salicylic acid ester, cinnamic acid, cocoglucoside, copper gluconate, diphenyl dimethicone,

Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Dnatriumsuccinat, Disteardimoniumhectorit, dodecene, Eperua falcata, hydrogenated Palmenglycerid, hydrogenated Palmenglyceridcitrat, Hydrogenated Palmenkernglyceride, hydrolyzed wheat protein PG-Propylmethylsilandiol, hydroxyethyl acrylate / Natriumacryloyldimethyltauracopolymer, lsodeceth-6, Linseed Acid magnesium aspartate, melibiose, Oxothiazolidinecarboxylsäure, Palmitoylpentapeptide 4, PEG-8 laurate, Phenethyl alcohol, phenylpropanol, polyacrylates-13, polyacrylates-3, sarcosine, saxifraga sarmentosa extract, scutellaria baicalensis extract, sodium metabisulfite, soy isoflavone, tocopheryl glucoside, trideceth-6, zinc gluconate.

The advantageous lipids and oils, simply referred to as lipids, are better distributed or held in the cosmetic preparation by polyamide-5 and thus lead to the observed improvements in the effects, such as skin moisturization.

In particular, W / O emulsions, G7W emulsions, hydrodispersions, gels, alcoholic preparations, cosmetic sprays, pads, cloth, plasters, W / S, b / w, microemulsion, nanoemulsion, mousse, foam, PIT emulsion are described as formulations according to the invention , oil, hydrogel, hydrodispersion gel, oleogel, b / w, W / S, multiple emulsion, ointment, cream gel, cream lotion formulated with polyamide-5 compounds.

The preparations according to the invention can advantageously be formulated as aerosol, pump spray, tube, crucible, bag-in-can system, ampoule, as a kit of different types of packaging, for filling electric, battery-operated and battery-powered devices. In particular, the use of one or more polyamide-5 compounds in sunscreen-containing W / O or W / S emulsions has proven to be advantageous if these preparations are present in a packaging in which a ball is contained for better removal of the preparation.

In order to improve the spreadability of W / O emulsion preparations, the prior art frequently uses silicone oils, non-polar mineral oils and polar lipids, such as isopropyl palmitate. used. However, this often results in a light to heavy oil separation and a low-temperature instability of the preparation containing these oils.

Through the use of polyamide-5, the stability of these preparations in the direction of reduced oil separation and improved low-temperature stability (<15 ° C) could be significantly increased.

The preparation according to the invention comprising polyamide-5 compounds can thus be used for the care / treatment of hands, elbows, knees, feet, face, nails, cuticle, breast lift, breast lift, stretch marks and stretch marks, nipples during breastfeeding, lips, eyes , Hair, skin disinfection, skin whitening, use in the shower or as a bath additive, as a carrier of repellents, as a basis for make-up products, enriched with particles as Scrubpräperat used, as they targeted the active ingredients or care substances on Deploy the site of action.

In summary, it can be surprisingly found that the polymaid-5 compounds according to the invention lead to a better distribution of active ingredients, such as, for example, Anti wrinkle agents, and care agents, such as e.g. oils, in cosmetic preparations. In turn, better dispersibility leads to better stability and better product performance. It can thus be used with the same efficacy, for example, the low temperature stability (<15 ° C), low effective or stabilizing agents as the preparations without polyamide-5 compounds. The proportion of active ingredients can thus be reduced without sacrificing the effectiveness. With the same proportion of active ingredients or care substances, in turn, an increased effectiveness against preparations without polyamide-5 compounds arises (see, for example, the light protection performance or water resistance).

In sunscreen formulations, these nylon types, the polyamide-5 compounds, help prevent the formation of white residues, which also indicates the improved distribution and stabilization of fabrics in the formulations.

The following examples illustrate preparations according to the invention. The figures given represent parts by weight, based on the total mass of the preparations.

Claims

claims

1. Use of one or more polyamide-5-compounds in cosmetic or dermatological preparations to increase the water resistance of the preparation on the human skin.

2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation is a light protection filter-containing W / O or W / S emulsion.

3. Use of one or more polyamide-5 compound in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for increasing the long-term stability of the preparation in the low-temperature range below 15 ° C.

4. Use of one or more polyamide-5-compound in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for increasing the skin moisturization of the preparations comprising at least one skin moisturizer and / or polar lipid.

5. Use of one or more polyamide-5-compound in cosmetic or dermatological preparations for its reduced stickiness and / or better spreadability on the skin comprising at least one lipid.

6. Use according to claim 4 or 5, characterized in that the lipids are selected from C12-15 alkyl benzoate or butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate.

7. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises one or more care and / or active ingredients selected from the group of UV filter substances, antif old active ingredients, skin moisturizers and / or lipids.