EP2229216A2 - Hair treatment method involving irradiation through an optical medium - Google Patents

Hair treatment method involving irradiation through an optical medium

Info

Publication number
EP2229216A2
EP2229216A2 EP08864854A EP08864854A EP2229216A2 EP 2229216 A2 EP2229216 A2 EP 2229216A2 EP 08864854 A EP08864854 A EP 08864854A EP 08864854 A EP08864854 A EP 08864854A EP 2229216 A2 EP2229216 A2 EP 2229216A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
hair
medium
light
transparent
transparent medium
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP08864854A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Inventor
Henri Samain
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
LOreal SA
Original Assignee
LOreal SA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by LOreal SA filed Critical LOreal SA
Publication of EP2229216A2 publication Critical patent/EP2229216A2/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61N—ELECTROTHERAPY; MAGNETOTHERAPY; RADIATION THERAPY; ULTRASOUND THERAPY
    • A61N5/00—Radiation therapy
    • A61N5/06—Radiation therapy using light
    • A61N5/0613—Apparatus adapted for a specific treatment
    • A61N5/0616—Skin treatment other than tanning
    • A61N5/0617—Hair treatment
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D19/0041—Processes for treating the hair of the scalp
    • A45D19/0066—Coloring or bleaching
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D19/00—Devices for washing the hair or the scalp; Similar devices for colouring the hair
    • A45D19/012—Devices for colouring or bleaching separated strands of hair, e.g. highlighting
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
    • A61B18/00—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body
    • A61B18/18—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves
    • A61B18/20—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves using laser
    • A61B18/203—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves using laser applying laser energy to the outside of the body
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61N—ELECTROTHERAPY; MAGNETOTHERAPY; RADIATION THERAPY; ULTRASOUND THERAPY
    • A61N5/00—Radiation therapy
    • A61N5/06—Radiation therapy using light
    • A61N5/067—Radiation therapy using light using laser light
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D44/00—Other cosmetic or toiletry articles, e.g. for hairdressers' rooms
    • A45D2044/007—Devices for determining the condition of hair or skin or for selecting the appropriate cosmetic or hair treatment
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00—Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/10—Details of applicators
    • A45D2200/1009—Applicators comprising a pad, tissue, sponge, or the like
    • A45D2200/1036—Applicators comprising a pad, tissue, sponge, or the like containing a cosmetic substance, e.g. impregnated with liquid or containing a soluble solid substance
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
    • A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
    • A45D2200/00—Details not otherwise provided for in A45D
    • A45D2200/20—Additional enhancing means
    • A45D2200/205—Radiation, e.g. UV, infrared
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
    • A61B18/00—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body
    • A61B2018/00315—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body for treatment of particular body parts
    • A61B2018/00452—Skin
    • A61B2018/00476—Hair follicles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61B—DIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
    • A61B18/00—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body
    • A61B18/18—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves
    • A61B18/20—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves using laser
    • A61B2018/206—Surgical instruments, devices or methods for transferring non-mechanical forms of energy to or from the body by applying electromagnetic radiation, e.g. microwaves using laser the laser light passing along a liquid-filled conduit
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61N—ELECTROTHERAPY; MAGNETOTHERAPY; RADIATION THERAPY; ULTRASOUND THERAPY
    • A61N5/00—Radiation therapy
    • A61N5/06—Radiation therapy using light
    • A61N2005/063—Radiation therapy using light comprising light transmitting means, e.g. optical fibres
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61N—ELECTROTHERAPY; MAGNETOTHERAPY; RADIATION THERAPY; ULTRASOUND THERAPY
    • A61N5/00—Radiation therapy
    • A61N5/06—Radiation therapy using light
    • A61N2005/0658—Radiation therapy using light characterised by the wavelength of light used
    • A61N2005/0662—Visible light
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61N—ELECTROTHERAPY; MAGNETOTHERAPY; RADIATION THERAPY; ULTRASOUND THERAPY
    • A61N5/00—Radiation therapy
    • A61N5/06—Radiation therapy using light
    • A61N2005/0664—Details
    • A61N2005/0665—Reflectors
    • A61N2005/0666—Reflectors for redirecting light to the treatment area

Definitions

  • Hair treatment method comprising irradiation through an optical medium
  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic treatment of human or animal keratin fibers.
  • the invention more particularly relates to hair treatments by irradiation.
  • Many hair treatments use light to treat the hair, for example to discolor melanin more or less intense.
  • US 5246019 discloses the application of a bleaching composition (alcoholic or hydroalcoholic solution, emulsion or gel) present on the hair at the time of irradiation, which preferably uses a continuous light. Rinsing is done next.
  • EP 685 220 teaches subjecting wet hair to impulse light bleaching treatment.
  • EP 682 937 teaches to cool the treated area by circulation of a fluid, for example a gas charged with water droplets.
  • the light should be used so as not to degrade the keratinous fibers and compliance with the irradiation conditions which prevent the fiber from being degraded proves to be a constraint for the development of these processes.
  • Cooling devices have been proposed to use cooling devices to prevent heating of the keratinous fibers. However, cooling does not prevent fiber degradation under certain irradiation conditions and makes the treatment system more complex and expensive. Cooling devices are also generally not suitable for shot frequencies greater than 100 Hz.
  • the invention thus has, according to one of its aspects, a hair treatment method in which at least a portion of at least one hair is exposed to at least one light pulse through a transparent medium, fluid or having solidified, of refractive index advantageously greater than or equal to 1.3 (at 20 ° C.) if possible greater than 1.4, this medium being in contact with the hair and extending between the hair and a surface of the medium, through which the light enters the medium.
  • the presence of the transparent medium makes it possible to use light pulses having a peak power greater than or equal to 10 5 W, for example, by decreasing or even eliminating the risk of degradation of the hair at high powers.
  • the frequency of the shots may be greater than or equal to 100 Hz, or even 1 kHz or 10 kHz.
  • the transparent medium also makes it possible to increase the quality of the result obtained.
  • the presence of the transparent medium makes it possible to discolor the two opposite faces of a layer of hair.
  • the quality being improved it can reduce the number of shots or energy per shot. The risk of hair degradation is therefore reduced.
  • It is also possible to treat thicker locks, the medium of transparency making it possible to propagate the effect of the luminous radiations to the lower layers of the hair of the wick.
  • the transparent medium makes it possible to reduce the odor emissions.
  • the shape of the entrance surface of the light in the medium is advantageously of predefined shape.
  • the shape of this surface may be defined by a transparent wall of an irradiation device in contact with the transparent medium.
  • This transparent wall may belong to an optical conduit of the irradiation device.
  • the transparent wall can define an optical output of this irradiation device.
  • the transparent wall is intermediate between an optical conduit for bringing light and the transparent medium, and comes for example to protect the optical conduit from a risk of soiling or wetting by the transparent medium.
  • the transparent wall may be movable relative to the hair and / or mobile relative to a hair guidance system.
  • the entrance surface of the light may be defined by leveling or flattening the medium, prior to exposure to the light pulse. The entry surface of the light may be in contact with the air or not.
  • the leveling or flattening of the medium may be related to the displacement of an organ of the treatment system.
  • the leveling or flattening can be done manually or be carried out automatically by the treatment system used.
  • the predefined shape can still be obtained with local fusion of the transparent medium.
  • a fusible wax can be used. Such a wax can be introduced in powder form so as to surround the hair. The application of heat melts the wax.
  • the transparent medium may be liquid at the time of irradiation. It can still be liquid when it comes into contact with the hair and then solidify, so that it is solid at the time of irradiation.
  • the entrance surface of the light can have its definite shape while the medium is still liquid. Alternatively, the predefined shape of the entrance surface may be obtained after the medium has become solid. By “solid” is meant a state where the medium is gelled.
  • Removal of the transparent medium after irradiation can be by suction, drying, heating, washing and / or evaporation, depending on the nature of the medium.
  • the entire section of at least one treated hair can be included in the transparent medium during irradiation. At least two, preferably three, superimposed layers of hair may be included in the transparent medium and exposed simultaneously to the light pulse (s). The whole of the treated hair can be located behind the entrance surface of the light. As mentioned above, the transparent medium helps to bring the light to the hair layers below the first, which allows to treat several layers of hair simultaneously.
  • the transparent medium can be cooled, if necessary, for example in order to be maintained at a temperature between -50 and 50 ° C.
  • the transparent medium can be static relative to the hair during irradiation or circulate.
  • a circulation of the transparent medium is intended for example to improve the transport of calories and to avoid the creation of hot spots.
  • the treated hair (s) may be confined within a guiding system defining the treatment space containing the hair and the transparent medium.
  • the treatment space may be of constant or adjustable dimensions, for example in order to adapt it to the size of a wick to be treated.
  • the hair can be packed in the treatment space, if necessary.
  • the hair may be motionless in the treatment space.
  • the treatment space is moved along the hair during irradiation.
  • the displacement of the treatment space is caused for example by the moving a transparent wall relative to a hair guide system, this transparent wall coming into contact with the transparent medium and imposing its shape on the light entry surface in the transparent medium.
  • the transparent wall may belong to an optical conduit, for example one or more optical fibers, or be interposed between the optical conduit and the transparent medium.
  • Means may be provided, if necessary, to contain the transparent medium in the treatment space despite the movement of the hair.
  • the treatment space is for example delimited by medium containment elements, comprising for example elastically deformable seals applying against the hair.
  • the treatment space can also be fed continuously in a transparent medium, so as to ensure that a sufficient amount of transparent medium coats the hair to be irradiated, given losses related to the non-sealing of the treatment space. .
  • the recovered transparent medium can be discharged to the wastewater, for example if it is pure water or containing an additive that does not have to be recycled, or be recycled at least partially , after a possible filtration.
  • a composition whose role is twofold can be used to produce the transparent medium, for example to make it possible to benefit from a high refractive index and to exert another action on the hair.
  • glycerol can be used which will give an emollient effect to the hair.
  • the transparent medium may be distributed on the hair from at least one supply port of said transparent medium, this orifice being movable relative to the hair between two light pulses.
  • the supply of the fluid intended to form the transparent medium can be done by a supply port which occupies a variable position with respect to a hair guidance system.
  • the light treatment may be aimed at bleaching the hair and / or giving it a remanent deformation, being different from an epilation treatment. During the implementation of the method, the light may not reach the scalp or the skin.
  • a treatment system comprising: an irradiation device comprising an impulse light source, a source of a transparent, fluid or solidifiable medium, of refractive index greater than or equal to 1.3, a hair guidance system to be treated, configured in a manner to receive the hair to be treated,
  • the treatment system being configured to bring the transparent medium into contact with the hair and preferably arranged to give a predefined shape to an input surface of the light in the medium.
  • the treatment system may comprise a source of the fluid used to form the transparent medium, for example a reservoir containing said fluid, or a connecting pipe to a source of said fluid or a component of the medium, for example a connection pipe to a source of water and one or more possible reservoirs of one or more additives to be mixed with water to form the transparent medium.
  • the treatment system can bring the transparent medium into contact with the hair to be treated.
  • the medium can also be deposited on the hair out of the hair guidance system.
  • the guide system and the light entry surface may define a treatment space which surrounds the treated hair or hair in at least one section transversely to the treated hair (s).
  • the treatment system may comprise a transparent medium recovery tank and possibly a recirculation system to the treatment space.
  • the treatment system may comprise a cooling system of the transparent medium, for example an exchanger in which the medium circulates or a source of cold in contact with the medium.
  • the guidance system can be arranged to calibrate the amount of hair contained in the treatment space.
  • the cross section thereof is for example thick corresponding to a relatively small number of layers of hair, for example less than four layers.
  • the cross section of the treatment space has for example a depth of between 1 mm and 10 mm and a width of between 1 mm and 10 mm.
  • the processing system comprises a transparent wall movable relative to the guiding system.
  • the latter can define a hair receiving channel for example of rectangular section.
  • the transparent wall can move with an optical output.
  • One or more fluid supply orifices intended to constitute the medium may open into said channel, this or these orifices being for example located in the guiding system.
  • the transparent wall moves with at least one fluid supply orifice, for example defined by a nozzle for spraying the fluid. This or these orifices may be located upstream of the transparent wall, with regard to the displacement thereof to ensure good impregnation of the hair.
  • the system may comprise a supply port opening into a treatment space traversed by the hair, this orifice communicating with a reservoir and being integral with an optical output of the irradiation device.
  • FIGS. 1a and 1b illustrate a first example of implementation of the invention
  • Figures 2a and 2b illustrate a second example of implementation of the invention
  • Figure 3 shows, schematically and partially, an example of a treatment system
  • the Figure 4 is a cross section, schematic and partial, according to IV of Figure 3
  • - Figure 5 shows another example of a processing system.
  • the medium used according to the invention is preferably colorless but may be colored to the extent that it does not significantly absorb the useful wavelength (s) of the irradiation light.
  • the medium may have an absorption less than or equal to a factor of 10 at the dominant wavelength of the irradiation light.
  • the transparent medium has a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.3, preferably greater than or equal to 1.4, or even 1.41, 1.42, 1.43, 1.44 or 1.45 at 20. 0 C.
  • the transparent medium may contain at least one organic compound in a mass content greater than or equal to 1%.
  • the medium comprises for example at least one organic solvent selected from alcohols, polyols, ketones or silicones and mixtures thereof.
  • the medium contains, for example, ethanol having a refractive index of 1.36, glycerol having a refractive index 1, 47 or acetone having a refractive index of 1.36, for example in a higher mass quantity. or equal to 25% relative to the total weight of the medium.
  • the medium can also be a fluid that solidifies.
  • Composable compositions can be used to bulk when the solvent evaporates.
  • a concentrated latex composition of a material which, by its Tg (speed transition temperature) and / or the presence of plasticizer additives, can coalesce.
  • materials which, by chemical reaction or by physicochemical bond, will become en masse for example a reactive silicone.
  • the advantage of this approach is to achieve light irradiation without the movements inherent in manipulations move the hair relative to each other. This limits the risk that some parts of hair are overexposed and others are not exposed, especially in case you want to make several passes.
  • the medium used is polar and has an ability to wet the surface of the hair, such as water or alcohol.
  • a rapidly evaporating fluid such as, for example, a light alkane such as butane or pentane, an ether, for example dimethyl ether or diethyl ether, a volatile silicone, acetone or acetate. alkyl.
  • a rapidly evaporating fluid such as, for example, a light alkane such as butane or pentane, an ether, for example dimethyl ether or diethyl ether, a volatile silicone, acetone or acetate. alkyl.
  • the temperature of the transparent medium, at the time of irradiation may be between -80 ° C. and 80 ° C.
  • the medium may be chemically inert to the hair.
  • the medium may in particular not achieve photochemical activation of the hair.
  • the medium may be free of oxidant, especially H 2 O 2 . If the illumination is in the UV spectrum, it is possible to use a filter material not or little UV.
  • the invention implements an irradiation of keratinous fibers by pulsed light, that is to say by pulses of light.
  • pulsed light that is to say by pulses of light.
  • These pulses can be generated in various ways, preferably with the aid of a laser, but other sources, for example a flash lamp, can be envisaged provided that the pulses adapted to the treatment to be produced can be delivered.
  • the light used for the treatment according to the invention can have a relatively short pulse duration and a relatively large peak power.
  • the keratinous fibers are for example locally exposed, at the same location, to several successive pulses.
  • successive pulses make it possible to reduce the risk of damaging the keratinous fibers, the fibers then being irradiated progressively.
  • the pulse duration designates the duration during which the light power reaching the keratinous fibers is greater than or equal to half of its peak power.
  • the duration of a pulse is for example between 10 "16 s and 10 " 5 s, better between 10 '15 s and 10 "7 s.
  • the duration is for example greater than 5.10 '12 s or less than or equal to 5.10 '12 S.
  • the number of light pulses at which the same portion of the keratinous fibers is exposed is for example adjusted according to the surface energy of the radiation which reaches the keratinous fibers, the color of the keratinous fibers and the treatment to be carried out.
  • the rate of shots is preferably greater than or equal to 10 Hz, better at 100 Hz, or even greater than or equal to 200 Hz, 500 Hz or 1 kHz, and preferably less than 100 kHz.
  • the dominant wavelength of the light reaching the hair may be between 300 nm and 10000 nm, preferably between 400 nm and 2000 nm.
  • the dominant wavelength may belong to the visible spectrum, ultraviolet or infrared.
  • various optical filters, absorbent or dichroic can be used to filter the light irradiating the fiber, such as filters rejecting ultraviolet or color filters to protect the natural color or artificial hair. It will be preferable to illuminate the hair with a light that is not absorbed by certain sensitive compounds of the hair. These colored filters make it possible, for example, to eliminate or strongly reduce certain components of the light that correspond, for example, to the hair dye absorption band or to other absorption bands.
  • the characteristics of the light emitted are, for example, set manually or automatically, optical components being for example designed to be changed or moved so as to modify the focus or the dominant wavelength of the light.
  • the selection of the wavelength of the light projected onto the fibers to be treated is for example carried out automatically or manually.
  • a user can for example manually change an optical component such as a lens or a filter in which passes, during use, the light radiation.
  • Servo-control can also be provided to achieve an automatic adjustment of irradiation parameters, for example via an adjustment of one or more optical components, this or these optical components being for example displaced by actuators controlled by one or more control signals .
  • These are for example transmitted by the computing unit of the processing system according to data received from one or more sensors, such as for example an optical sensor or a camera that can detect different colors or natures of hair.
  • An automatic adjustment can still be made based at least on responses to a questionnaire concerning the hair of the person to be treated.
  • the power supply of the irradiation device can be autonomous, for example be portable and integrated into a handpiece.
  • Attosecond lasers whose pulse duration is from 10 ' to 10 " second
  • femtosecond lasers whose pulse duration is from 10 ⁇ 15 seconds to 10 " seconds or "picosecond” lasers with pulse duration ranging from 10 "12 seconds to 1 ns.
  • Flash-pumped lasers generally have a pulse duration around the nanosecond or diode-pumped lasers whose pulse duration generally ranges from one nanosecond to one hundred nanoseconds.
  • the irradiation device comprises for example a laser having a cavity formed by two mirrors located on either side of a broadband amplifying material, for example based on titanium-sapphire or ytterbium-based. The cavity may also be formed by an optical fiber made of an amplifier material.
  • the irradiation device may comprise a mode-locking device.
  • the irradiation device may comprise a lens associated with the laser, having a numerical aperture of, for example, between 0.1 and 1, such as a lens used for reading optical storage disks.
  • the irradiation device may also include a coupler for injecting the pump light and a coupler for extracting the laser pulses.
  • the pumping light is for example produced by a diode but can also be produced by a flash lamp or by another laser.
  • each shot has for example a peak power of 1 MW to 1000 GW, better 1 MW to 100 GW.
  • the irradiation device uses for example a laser whose average electrical power is between 0.001 W and 50 W and which delivers for example peak powers ranging from 1 MW to 100 GW.
  • the number of shots suffered by the treated portion is for example between 1 and 10,000 shots, preferably between 5 and 1000 shots.
  • the light reaching the keratin fibers has for example a fluence of the order of 1 to a few J / cm 2 , for example less than 5 J / cm 2 .
  • the fluence may, for example, vary from 0.1mJ / mm 2 to 50mJ / mm 2 , for example depending on the yields, pulse durations or adjustments made according to the type of hair.
  • a user interface for example with a screen and one or more selection keys, may for example make it possible to choose from different operating modes and / or to modify the duration of the pulses, the energy supplied by the shot and / or the frequency of the pulses. shots.
  • Non-linear optical components may be used to double or triple the frequency or to spread the spectrum of light reaching the treated fibers.
  • the irradiation device may comprise a collimation device of the light beam and thus use a less powerful laser for an irradiation energy identical, but nevertheless sufficient to achieve the desired treatment of the hair.
  • the Collimation device is for example adjustable in order to adjust the fluence of the light reaching the keratinous fibers. This adjustment is for example made manually or automatically, for example depending on the color of the keratin fibers to be treated or according to a desired degree of result.
  • the collimation device may comprise several lenses, convergent and / or divergent.
  • the irradiation device can be used near the hair or implements a transport of light to the transparent medium.
  • Different optical elements may be used for the transport of light, such as a collimation optics, one or more optical mirrors and / or deflectors and / or an optical conduit such as one or more optical fibers.
  • An optical deflector can be used to orient the path of the light rays according to addressing data.
  • the optical deflector is for example controlled by the computing unit to bring the light beam onto the portion of the keratinous fibers to be treated.
  • the irradiation device may also be equipped with means for confining or absorbing light, for trapping the light and preventing it from diffusing out of a treatment zone.
  • the optical output can be any shape, be unique or multiple.
  • the irradiation device comprises for example a circular optical output or which is in the form of one or more slots, which can have various profiles.
  • the optical output may be in contact with the transparent medium.
  • the treatment method according to the invention can be applied to a hair but preferably to a lock of hair comprising for example between 100 and 10,000 hair.
  • the method can be applied to a portion of this wick or to several portions of this wick, disjoined or even to the entire wick.
  • the wick which is irradiated may comprise a single layer of irradiated hair, but preferably the treatment is carried out with several superposed layers of hair, the treated thickness thus being greater than that of a hair.
  • At least one hair H is in contact with a transparent medium M which has a refractive index greater than 1.3 and which contributes to bringing the light to the hair (x) to treat.
  • the light is brought to the hair through an input face I of the medium M which advantageously has a predefined shape, for example flat as illustrated in Figures Ib and 2b.
  • the entrance surface of the medium which is traversed by the incident light during a firing is for example between 10.000 ⁇ m 2 and 100 cm 2 .
  • All the hair of the first layer, superficial, can thus be located behind the entrance surface I.
  • the leveling or flattening can be done for example manually or automatically.
  • the user can for example move an organ of the treatment system to flatten the surface of the medium, It is also possible to define the shape of the entrance surface of the light in the medium with a transparent wall 10, in contact with the medium M, as illustrated in FIGS. 3 and 4.
  • processing system 15 which comprises an optical conduit 16 for supplying light to the transparent wall 10 in contact with medium M.
  • the hair H are confined in a guide system 20 which at least partially defines the treatment space 21 containing the medium M.
  • the thickness e of this treatment space 21 is for example between 1 mm and 5 mm, accommodating for example between 1 and 20 layers of hair, for example three layers.
  • the width L of the treatment space 21 is for example between 5 mm and 30 mm.
  • the medium M present in the processing space 21 can be brought there in different ways.
  • the medium M is for example deposited on the hair before they enter the treatment space.
  • the treatment space is supplied in a transparent medium by the guiding system, for example by the sides of the channel in which the hair extends, for example by one or more orifices 26 which communicate with a source of the fluid intended to to constitute the transparent medium.
  • a not shown recovery system such as for example a tray, may be arranged to recover the medium flowing through the longitudinal ends of the channel of the guide system, through which the hair enters and leaves. These longitudinal ends may optionally be provided with a sealing system, for example joints that pass between them hair.
  • the treatment system may be arranged to exert pressure or tension on the hair to be treated, so as to ensure good inclusion of the hair in the transparent medium M.
  • the transparent wall 10 can move longitudinally relative to the guide system 20 to process the wick extending in the guide system.
  • the transparent wall 10 crushes the transparent medium M, which ensures its flatness in contact with the transparent wall 10, the absence of air also allows to spread the hair present in the guide system.
  • the transparent wall 10, which defines the optical output of the irradiation device, may have its displacement relatively to the guidance system provided manually or alternatively automatically, the processing system comprising for example an actuator for moving the optical output in a controlled manner to the emission of light pulses.
  • the fluid is not distributed through orifices of the guidance system but by a part of the treatment system which comprises the optical output.
  • the fluid is distributed by at least one orifice which is located upstream of the optical output with respect to the direction of movement thereof, so that the fluid has time to impregnate the hair before the arrival of the light.
  • the optical output is secured to a container 40 filled with the liquid to form the transparent medium.
  • the processing system 15 comprises a handpiece 42 on which the reservoir is mounted and which supports the optical output.
  • the hair can pass through a treatment space into which an orifice communicating with the reservoir opens.
  • the handpiece can be moved along the hair.
  • the irradiation can be done automatically, depending on the displacement and / or be controlled by the operator.

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Abstract

Hair treatment method in which at least one portion of at least one hair (H) is exposed to at least one pulse of light through a fluid or solidified transparent medium (M) with a refractive index of 1.3 or higher, this medium being in contact with the hair or hairs and extending between the hair or hairs and a surface (I) at which light enters the medium, preferably of predefined form.

Description

Procédé de traitement de cheveux comprenant une irradiation à travers un milieu optique Hair treatment method comprising irradiation through an optical medium
La présente invention concerne le traitement cosmétique des fibres kératiniques humaines ou animales. L'invention concerne plus particulièrement les traitements de cheveux par irradiation.The present invention relates to the cosmetic treatment of human or animal keratin fibers. The invention more particularly relates to hair treatments by irradiation.
De nombreux traitements capillaires emploient la lumière pour traiter les cheveux, par exemple pour décolorer la mélanine de façon plus ou moins intense.Many hair treatments use light to treat the hair, for example to discolor melanin more or less intense.
Les publications US 4 792 341, US 5 246 019. US 5 30 37 22 EP 6 852 20 Al , EP 682 937 Bl et US 2007 10167936 Al décrivent ainsi des procédés de décoloration des cheveux utilisant des dispositifs d'irradiation.The publications US 4,792,341, US 5 246 019. US 5 30 37 22 EP 6852 20 Al, EP 682 937 Bl and US 2007 10167936 Al and disclose hair bleaching processes using irradiation devices.
US 5 246 019 divulgue l'application d'une composition blanchissante (solution alcoolique ou hydroalcoolique, émulsion ou gel) présente sur les cheveux au moment de l'irradiation, laquelle utilise de préférence une lumière continue. Un rinçage est effectué ensuite. EP 685 220 enseigne de soumettre des cheveux humides à un traitement de décoloration par lumière impulsionnelle.US 5246019 discloses the application of a bleaching composition (alcoholic or hydroalcoholic solution, emulsion or gel) present on the hair at the time of irradiation, which preferably uses a continuous light. Rinsing is done next. EP 685 220 teaches subjecting wet hair to impulse light bleaching treatment.
EP 682 937 enseigne de refroidir la zone traitée par circulation d'un fluide, par exemple un gaz chargé de gouttelettes d'eau.EP 682 937 teaches to cool the treated area by circulation of a fluid, for example a gas charged with water droplets.
La'lumière doit être utilisée de façon à ne pas dégrader les fibres kératiniques et le respect des conditions d'irradiation qui évitent que la fibre ne soit dégradée s'avère contraignant pour le développement de ces procédés.The light should be used so as not to degrade the keratinous fibers and compliance with the irradiation conditions which prevent the fiber from being degraded proves to be a constraint for the development of these processes.
Il a été proposé d'utiliser des dispositifs de refroidissement pour éviter un échauffement des fibres kératiniques. Toutefois, le refroidissement n'empêche pas une dégradation des fibres dans certaines conditions d'irradiation et rend plus complexe et coûteux le système de traitement. Les dispositifs de refroidissement ne sont de plus généralement pas adaptés à des fréquences de tirs supérieures à 100 Hz.It has been proposed to use cooling devices to prevent heating of the keratinous fibers. However, cooling does not prevent fiber degradation under certain irradiation conditions and makes the treatment system more complex and expensive. Cooling devices are also generally not suitable for shot frequencies greater than 100 Hz.
Il existe un besoin pour bénéficier d'un procédé de traitement des cheveux par irradiation, qui soit rapide tout en limitant les risques de dégradation de ceux-ci et l'invention vise à y répondre. L'invention a ainsi pour objet, selon l'un de ses aspects, un procédé de traitement des cheveux dans lequel on expose au moins une portion d'au moins un cheveu à au moins une impulsion lumineuse au travers d'un milieu transparent, fluide ou ayant solidifié, d'indice de réfraction avantageusement supérieur ou égal à 1.3 (à 2O0C) si possible supérieur à 1,4, ce milieu étant au contact du cheveu et s'étendant entre le cheveu et une surface du milieu, par laquelle la lumière entre dans le milieu.There is a need to benefit from a hair treatment process by irradiation, which is rapid while limiting the risks of degradation of these and the invention aims to respond. The invention thus has, according to one of its aspects, a hair treatment method in which at least a portion of at least one hair is exposed to at least one light pulse through a transparent medium, fluid or having solidified, of refractive index advantageously greater than or equal to 1.3 (at 20 ° C.) if possible greater than 1.4, this medium being in contact with the hair and extending between the hair and a surface of the medium, through which the light enters the medium.
La présence du milieu transparent permet d'utiliser des impulsions lumineuses ayant une puissance de crête supérieure ou égale à 105 W par exemple, en diminuant, voire en supprimant, le risque de dégradation des cheveux aux puissances élevées. La fréquence des tirs peut être supérieure ou égale à 100 Hz, voire 1 kHz ou 10 kHz.The presence of the transparent medium makes it possible to use light pulses having a peak power greater than or equal to 10 5 W, for example, by decreasing or even eliminating the risk of degradation of the hair at high powers. The frequency of the shots may be greater than or equal to 100 Hz, or even 1 kHz or 10 kHz.
Le milieu transparent permet aussi d'augmenter la qualité du résultat obtenu. A titre d'exemple non limitatif, lors d'une décoloration, la présence du milieu transparent permet de décolorer les deux faces opposées d'une couche de cheveux. De façon avantageuse, la qualité étant améliorée, on peut diminuer le nombre de tirs ou l'énergie par tir. Le risque de dégradation des cheveux est donc diminué. On peut aussi traiter des mèches plus épaisses, le milieu de transparent permettant de propager l'effet des radiations lumineuses aux couches inférieures des cheveux de la mèche.The transparent medium also makes it possible to increase the quality of the result obtained. By way of non-limiting example, during a discoloration, the presence of the transparent medium makes it possible to discolor the two opposite faces of a layer of hair. Advantageously, the quality being improved, it can reduce the number of shots or energy per shot. The risk of hair degradation is therefore reduced. It is also possible to treat thicker locks, the medium of transparency making it possible to propagate the effect of the luminous radiations to the lower layers of the hair of the wick.
Le milieu transparent permet encore de diminuer les dégagements d'odeur. La forme de la surface d'entrée de la lumière dans le milieu est avantageusement de forme prédéfinie.The transparent medium makes it possible to reduce the odor emissions. The shape of the entrance surface of the light in the medium is advantageously of predefined shape.
La forme de cette surface peut être définie par une paroi transparente d'un dispositif d'irradiation au contact du milieu transparent. Cette paroi transparente peut appartenir à un conduit optique du dispositif d'irradiation. La paroi transparente peut définir une sortie optique de ce dispositif d'irradiation. En variante, la paroi transparente est intermédiaire entre un conduit optique d'amenée de la lumière et le milieu transparent, et vient par exemple protéger le conduit optique d'un risque de salissure ou de mouillage par le milieu transparent. La paroi transparente peut être mobile relativement aux cheveux et/ou mobile relativement à un système de guidage des cheveux. La surface d'entrée de la lumière peut être définie par arasement ou aplanissement du milieu, préalablement à l'exposition à l'impulsion lumineuse. La surface d'entrée de la lumière peut être au contact de l'air ou non.The shape of this surface may be defined by a transparent wall of an irradiation device in contact with the transparent medium. This transparent wall may belong to an optical conduit of the irradiation device. The transparent wall can define an optical output of this irradiation device. In a variant, the transparent wall is intermediate between an optical conduit for bringing light and the transparent medium, and comes for example to protect the optical conduit from a risk of soiling or wetting by the transparent medium. The transparent wall may be movable relative to the hair and / or mobile relative to a hair guidance system. The entrance surface of the light may be defined by leveling or flattening the medium, prior to exposure to the light pulse. The entry surface of the light may be in contact with the air or not.
L'arasement ou l'aplanissement du milieu peut être lié au déplacement d'un organe du système de traitement. L'arasement ou l'aplanissement peut se faire manuellement ou être réalisé de façon automatique par le système de traitement utilisé. La forme prédéfinie peut encore être obtenue avec fusion locale du milieu transparent. On peut employer une cire fusible. Une telle cire peut être introduite sous forme de poudre de façon à entourer les cheveux. L'application de la chaleur permet de fondre la cire. Le milieu transparent peut être liquide au moment de T irradiation. II peut encore être liquide lors de sa venue au contact des cheveux et se solidifier ensuite, de telle sorte qu'il soit solide au moment de l'irradiation. La surface d'entrée de la lumière peut avoir sa forme définie alors que le milieu est encore liquide. En variante, la forme prédéfinie de la surface d'entrée peut être obtenue après que le milieu soit devenu solide. Par « solide » on englobe un état où le milieu est gélifié.The leveling or flattening of the medium may be related to the displacement of an organ of the treatment system. The leveling or flattening can be done manually or be carried out automatically by the treatment system used. The predefined shape can still be obtained with local fusion of the transparent medium. A fusible wax can be used. Such a wax can be introduced in powder form so as to surround the hair. The application of heat melts the wax. The transparent medium may be liquid at the time of irradiation. It can still be liquid when it comes into contact with the hair and then solidify, so that it is solid at the time of irradiation. The entrance surface of the light can have its definite shape while the medium is still liquid. Alternatively, the predefined shape of the entrance surface may be obtained after the medium has become solid. By "solid" is meant a state where the medium is gelled.
L'élimination du milieu transparent après l'irradiation peut se faire par aspiration, séchage, chauffage, lavage et/ou évaporation, selon la nature du milieu.Removal of the transparent medium after irradiation can be by suction, drying, heating, washing and / or evaporation, depending on the nature of the medium.
Toute la section d'au moins un cheveu traité peut être incluse dans le milieu transparent lors de l'irradiation. Au moins deux, mieux trois, couches de cheveux superposées peuvent être incluses dans le milieu transparent et exposées simultanément à la ou aux impulsions lumineuses. L'ensemble des cheveux traité peut se situer en arrière de la surface d'entrée de la lumière. Comme mentionné plus haut, le milieu transparent contribue à amener la lumière sur les cheveux des couches situées sous la première, ce qui permet de traiter plusieurs couches de cheveux simultanément. Le milieu transparent peut être refroidi, le cas échéant, par exemple afin d'être maintenu à une température comprise entre -50 et 50C°.The entire section of at least one treated hair can be included in the transparent medium during irradiation. At least two, preferably three, superimposed layers of hair may be included in the transparent medium and exposed simultaneously to the light pulse (s). The whole of the treated hair can be located behind the entrance surface of the light. As mentioned above, the transparent medium helps to bring the light to the hair layers below the first, which allows to treat several layers of hair simultaneously. The transparent medium can be cooled, if necessary, for example in order to be maintained at a temperature between -50 and 50 ° C.
Le milieu transparent peut être statique relativement aux cheveux durant l'irradiation ou circuler. Une circulation du milieu transparent vise par exemple à améliorer le transport des calories et à éviter la création de points chauds. Le ou les cheveux traités peuvent être confinés au sein d'un système de guidage définissant l'espace de traitement contenant les cheveux et le milieu transparent. L'espace de traitement peut être de dimensions constantes ou réglables, par exemple afin de l'adapter à la taille d'une mèche à traiter.The transparent medium can be static relative to the hair during irradiation or circulate. A circulation of the transparent medium is intended for example to improve the transport of calories and to avoid the creation of hot spots. The treated hair (s) may be confined within a guiding system defining the treatment space containing the hair and the transparent medium. The treatment space may be of constant or adjustable dimensions, for example in order to adapt it to the size of a wick to be treated.
Les cheveux peuvent être tassés dans l'espace de traitement, le cas échéant. Durant le traitement, les cheveux peuvent être immobiles dans l'espace de traitement. En variante, l'espace de traitement est déplacé le long des cheveux durant l'irradiation. Le déplacement de l'espace de traitement est par exemple causé par le déplacement d'une paroi transparente par rapport à un système de guidage des cheveux, cette paroi transparente venant au contact du milieu transparent et imposant sa forme à la surface d'entrée de la lumière dans Ie milieu transparent. La paroi transparente peut appartenir à un conduit optique, par exemple une ou plusieurs fibres optiques, ou être interposée entre le conduit optique et le milieu transparent. Des moyens peuvent être prévus, le cas échéant, pour contenir le milieu transparent dans l'espace de traitement malgré le déplacement des cheveux. L'espace de traitement est par exemple délimité par des éléments de confinement du milieu, comportant par exemple des joints élastiquement déformables s 'appliquant contre les cheveux. L'espace de traitement peut aussi être alimenté en continu en milieu transparent, de façon à garantir qu'une quantité suffisante de milieu transparent enrobe les cheveux devant être irradiés, compte-tenu de pertes liées à la non étanchéité de l'espace de traitement.The hair can be packed in the treatment space, if necessary. During the treatment, the hair may be motionless in the treatment space. Alternatively, the treatment space is moved along the hair during irradiation. The displacement of the treatment space is caused for example by the moving a transparent wall relative to a hair guide system, this transparent wall coming into contact with the transparent medium and imposing its shape on the light entry surface in the transparent medium. The transparent wall may belong to an optical conduit, for example one or more optical fibers, or be interposed between the optical conduit and the transparent medium. Means may be provided, if necessary, to contain the transparent medium in the treatment space despite the movement of the hair. The treatment space is for example delimited by medium containment elements, comprising for example elastically deformable seals applying against the hair. The treatment space can also be fed continuously in a transparent medium, so as to ensure that a sufficient amount of transparent medium coats the hair to be irradiated, given losses related to the non-sealing of the treatment space. .
Le traitement des cheveux peut s'effectuer au-dessus d'un bac de récupération du milieu transparent. Selon la nature de ce dernier, le milieu transparent récupéré peut être évacué vers les eaux usées, par exemple s'il s'agit d'eau pure ou contenant un additif qui n'a pas à être recyclé, ou être recyclé au moins partiellement, après une filtration éventuelle.Hair treatment can be done over a transparent medium recovery tray. According to the nature of the latter, the recovered transparent medium can be discharged to the wastewater, for example if it is pure water or containing an additive that does not have to be recycled, or be recycled at least partially , after a possible filtration.
On peut utiliser pour réaliser le milieu transparent une composition dont le rôle est double, par exemple permettre de bénéficier d'un indice de réfraction élevé et exercer une autre action sur les cheveux. Par exemple, on peut utiliser du glycérol qui va donner un effet émollient aux cheveux.A composition whose role is twofold can be used to produce the transparent medium, for example to make it possible to benefit from a high refractive index and to exert another action on the hair. For example, glycerol can be used which will give an emollient effect to the hair.
Le milieu transparent peut être distribué sur les cheveux à partir d'au moins un orifice d'amenée dudit milieu transparent, cet orifice pouvant être déplacé par rapport aux cheveux entre deux impulsions lumineuses. L'amenée du fluide destiné à former le milieu transparent peut se faire par un orifice d'amenée qui occupe une position variable par rapport à un système de guidage des cheveux.The transparent medium may be distributed on the hair from at least one supply port of said transparent medium, this orifice being movable relative to the hair between two light pulses. The supply of the fluid intended to form the transparent medium can be done by a supply port which occupies a variable position with respect to a hair guidance system.
Le traitement lumineux peut viser à décolorer les cheveux et/ou à leur conférer une déformation rémanente, étant différent d'un traitement d'épilation. Lors de la mise en œuvre du procédé, la lumière peut ne pas atteindre le cuir chevelu ou la peau. L'invention a encore pour objet, selon un autre de ses aspects, un système de traitement comportant : un dispositif d'irradiation comportant une source de lumière impulsionnelle, une source d'un milieu transparent, fluide ou solidifiable, d'indice de réfraction supérieur ou égal à 1,3, - un système de guidage des cheveux à traiter, configuré de manière à recevoir les cheveux à traiter,The light treatment may be aimed at bleaching the hair and / or giving it a remanent deformation, being different from an epilation treatment. During the implementation of the method, the light may not reach the scalp or the skin. Another subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is a treatment system comprising: an irradiation device comprising an impulse light source, a source of a transparent, fluid or solidifiable medium, of refractive index greater than or equal to 1.3, a hair guidance system to be treated, configured in a manner to receive the hair to be treated,
Ie système de traitement étant configuré pour amener le milieu transparent au contact des cheveux et de préférence agencé pour donner une forme prédéfinie à une surface d'entrée de la lumière dans le milieu. Le système de traitement peut comporter une source du fluide utilisé pour former le milieu transparent, par exemple un réservoir contentant ledit fluide, ou un tuyau de raccordement à une source dudit fluide ou d'un composant du milieu, par exemple un tuyau de raccordement à une source d'eau et un ou plusieurs réservoirs éventuels d'un ou plusieurs additifs à mélanger à l'eau pour former le milieu transparent. Le système de traitement peut amener le milieu transparent au contact des cheveux à traiter. Le milieu peut aussi être déposé sur les cheveux hors du système de guidage des cheveux.The treatment system being configured to bring the transparent medium into contact with the hair and preferably arranged to give a predefined shape to an input surface of the light in the medium. The treatment system may comprise a source of the fluid used to form the transparent medium, for example a reservoir containing said fluid, or a connecting pipe to a source of said fluid or a component of the medium, for example a connection pipe to a source of water and one or more possible reservoirs of one or more additives to be mixed with water to form the transparent medium. The treatment system can bring the transparent medium into contact with the hair to be treated. The medium can also be deposited on the hair out of the hair guidance system.
Le système de guidage et la surface d'entrée de la lumière peuvent définir un espace de traitement qui entoure de toute part le ou les cheveux traités, dans au moins une section prise transversalement au(x) cheveu(x) traité(s).The guide system and the light entry surface may define a treatment space which surrounds the treated hair or hair in at least one section transversely to the treated hair (s).
Le système de traitement peut comporter un bac de récupération du milieu transparent ainsi éventuellement qu'un système de recirculation vers l'espace de traitement.The treatment system may comprise a transparent medium recovery tank and possibly a recirculation system to the treatment space.
Le système de traitement peut comporter un système de refroidissement du milieu transparent, par exemple un échangeur dans lequel circule le milieu ou une source de froid au contact du milieu.The treatment system may comprise a cooling system of the transparent medium, for example an exchanger in which the medium circulates or a source of cold in contact with the medium.
Le système de guidage peut être agencé pour calibrer la quantité de cheveux contenue dans l'espace de traitement. La section transversale de celui-ci est par exemple d'épaisseur correspondant à un nombre relativement réduit de couches de cheveux, par exemple moins de quatre couches.The guidance system can be arranged to calibrate the amount of hair contained in the treatment space. The cross section thereof is for example thick corresponding to a relatively small number of layers of hair, for example less than four layers.
La section transversale de l'espace de traitement a par exemple une profondeur comprise entre 1 mm et 10 mm et une largeur comprise entre 1 mm et 10 mm. Dans un exemple de réalisation, le système de traitement comporte une paroi transparente mobile relativement au système de guidage. Ce dernier peut définir un canal de réception de cheveux par exemple de section rectangulaire. La paroi transparente peut se déplacer avec une sortie optique. Un ou plusieurs orifices d'amenée du fluide destiné à constituer le milieu peuvent déboucher dans ledit canal, ce ou ces orifices étant par exemple situés dans le système de guidage. En variante, la paroi transparente se déplace avec au moins un orifice d'amenée de fluide, par exemple défini par une buse de projection du fluide. Ce ou ces orifices peuvent être situés en amont de la paroi transparente, eu égard au déplacement de celle-ci pour assurer une bonne imprégnation des cheveux.The cross section of the treatment space has for example a depth of between 1 mm and 10 mm and a width of between 1 mm and 10 mm. In an exemplary embodiment, the processing system comprises a transparent wall movable relative to the guiding system. The latter can define a hair receiving channel for example of rectangular section. The transparent wall can move with an optical output. One or more fluid supply orifices intended to constitute the medium may open into said channel, this or these orifices being for example located in the guiding system. In a variant, the transparent wall moves with at least one fluid supply orifice, for example defined by a nozzle for spraying the fluid. This or these orifices may be located upstream of the transparent wall, with regard to the displacement thereof to ensure good impregnation of the hair.
Le système peut comporter un orifice d'amenée débouchant dans un espace de traitement traversé par les cheveux, cet orifice communiquant avec un réservoir et étant solidaire d'une sortie optique du dispositif d'irradiation.The system may comprise a supply port opening into a treatment space traversed by the hair, this orifice communicating with a reservoir and being integral with an optical output of the irradiation device.
L'invention pourra être mieux comprise à la lecture de la description détaillée qui va suivre, d'exemples non limitatifs de mise en œuvre de celle-ci, et à l'examen du dessin annexé, sur lequel : les figures la et Ib illustrent un premier exemple de mise en œuvre de l'invention, les figures 2a et 2b illustrent un deuxième exemple de mise en œuvre de l'invention, la figure 3 représente, de manière schématique et partielle, un exemple de système de traitement, et la figure 4 est une section transversale, schématique et partielle, selon IV de la figure 3 ; et - la figure 5 représente un autre exemple de système de traitement.The invention will be better understood on reading the following detailed description of nonlimiting examples of implementation thereof, and on examining the appended drawing, in which: FIGS. 1a and 1b illustrate a first example of implementation of the invention, Figures 2a and 2b illustrate a second example of implementation of the invention, Figure 3 shows, schematically and partially, an example of a treatment system, and the Figure 4 is a cross section, schematic and partial, according to IV of Figure 3; and - Figure 5 shows another example of a processing system.
Milieu transparentTransparent medium
Le milieu utilisé selon l'invention est de préférence incolore mais peut être coloré dans la mesure où il n'absorbe pas significativement la ou les longueurs d'onde utiles de la lumière d'irradiation. Par exemple, le milieu peut avoir une absorption inférieure ou égale à un facteur 10 à la longueur d'onde dominante de la lumière d'irradiation. Le milieu transparent présente un indice de réfraction supérieur ou égal à 1,3, de préférence supérieur ou égal à 1,4, voire à 1,41, 1,42, 1,43, 1,44 ou 1,45, à 2O0C.The medium used according to the invention is preferably colorless but may be colored to the extent that it does not significantly absorb the useful wavelength (s) of the irradiation light. For example, the medium may have an absorption less than or equal to a factor of 10 at the dominant wavelength of the irradiation light. The transparent medium has a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.3, preferably greater than or equal to 1.4, or even 1.41, 1.42, 1.43, 1.44 or 1.45 at 20. 0 C.
Le milieu transparent peut contenir au moins un composé organique en une teneur massique supérieure ou égale à 1 %. Le milieu comprend par exemple au moins un solvant organique choisi parmi les alcools, les polyols, les cétones ou les silicones et leurs mélanges.The transparent medium may contain at least one organic compound in a mass content greater than or equal to 1%. The medium comprises for example at least one organic solvent selected from alcohols, polyols, ketones or silicones and mixtures thereof.
Le milieu contient par exemple de l'éthanol d'indice de réfraction 1,36, du glycérol d'indice de réfraction 1 ,47 ou de l'acétone d'indice de réfraction 1,36, par exemple dans une quantité en masse supérieure ou égale à 25 % par rapport au poids total du milieu. Le milieu peut aussi être un fluide qui se solidifie.The medium contains, for example, ethanol having a refractive index of 1.36, glycerol having a refractive index 1, 47 or acetone having a refractive index of 1.36, for example in a higher mass quantity. or equal to 25% relative to the total weight of the medium. The medium can also be a fluid that solidifies.
On peut utiliser des compositions propres à prendre en masse lorsque le solvant s'évapore. Par exemple, une composition de latex concentrée d'un matériau qui, de par sa Tg (température de transition vitesse) et/ou la présence d'additifs plastifiants, puisse coalescer. Par ailleurs, on peut utiliser des matériaux qui, par réaction chimique ou par liaison physicochimique, vont prendre en masse, par exemple une silicone réactive. L'intérêt de cette approche est de réaliser l'irradiation lumineuse sans que les mouvements inhérents aux manipulations fassent bouger les cheveux les uns par rapport aux autres. On limite ainsi les risques que certaines parties de cheveux se trouvent surexposées et d'autres se trouvent non exposées, en particulier dans le cas où l'on veut faire plusieurs passes. De préférence, le milieu utilisé est polaire et présente une capacité à mouiller la surface des cheveux, comme par exemple l'eau ou l'alcool.Composable compositions can be used to bulk when the solvent evaporates. For example, a concentrated latex composition of a material which, by its Tg (speed transition temperature) and / or the presence of plasticizer additives, can coalesce. Moreover, it is possible to use materials which, by chemical reaction or by physicochemical bond, will become en masse, for example a reactive silicone. The advantage of this approach is to achieve light irradiation without the movements inherent in manipulations move the hair relative to each other. This limits the risk that some parts of hair are overexposed and others are not exposed, especially in case you want to make several passes. Preferably, the medium used is polar and has an ability to wet the surface of the hair, such as water or alcohol.
On peut aussi utiliser un fluide s'évaporant rapidement, comme par exemple un alcane léger tel que du butane ou du pentane, un éther, comme par exemple le diméthyléther ou du diéthyléther, une silicone volatile, de l'acétone ou de l'acétate d'alkyle. La température du milieu transparent, au moment de l'irradiation, peut être comprise entre -800C et 800C.It is also possible to use a rapidly evaporating fluid, such as, for example, a light alkane such as butane or pentane, an ether, for example dimethyl ether or diethyl ether, a volatile silicone, acetone or acetate. alkyl. The temperature of the transparent medium, at the time of irradiation, may be between -80 ° C. and 80 ° C.
Le milieu peut être chimiquement inerte vis-à-vis des cheveux. Le milieu peut notamment ne pas réaliser d'activation photochimique des cheveux. Le milieu peut être dépourvu d'oxydant, notamment de H2O2. Si l'illumination est dans le spectre UV, il est possible d'utiliser une matière filtrant pas ou peu les UV.The medium may be chemically inert to the hair. The medium may in particular not achieve photochemical activation of the hair. The medium may be free of oxidant, especially H 2 O 2 . If the illumination is in the UV spectrum, it is possible to use a filter material not or little UV.
Dispositif d'irradiation L'invention met en œuvre une irradiation des fibres kératiniques par une lumière puisée, c'est-à-dire par des impulsions de lumière. Ces impulsions peuvent être générées de diverses façons, préférentiellement à l'aide d'un laser, mais d'autres sources, par exemple une lampe flash, sont envisageables à condition de pouvoir délivrer les impulsions adaptées au traitement à réaliser.Irradiation device The invention implements an irradiation of keratinous fibers by pulsed light, that is to say by pulses of light. These pulses can be generated in various ways, preferably with the aid of a laser, but other sources, for example a flash lamp, can be envisaged provided that the pulses adapted to the treatment to be produced can be delivered.
La lumière utilisée pour le traitement selon l'invention peut avoir une durée d'impulsion relativement faible et une puissance de crête relativement importante.The light used for the treatment according to the invention can have a relatively short pulse duration and a relatively large peak power.
Les fibres kératiniques sont par exemple exposées localement, au même emplacement, à plusieurs impulsions successives. De façon avantageuse, des impulsions successives permettent de diminuer le risque d'endommagement des fibres kératiniques, les fibres étant alors irradiées progressivement.The keratinous fibers are for example locally exposed, at the same location, to several successive pulses. Advantageously, successive pulses make it possible to reduce the risk of damaging the keratinous fibers, the fibers then being irradiated progressively.
La durée d'impulsion désigne la durée pendant laquelle la puissance lumineuse atteignant les fibres kératiniques est supérieure ou égale à la moitié de sa puissance de crête. La durée d'une impulsion est par exemple comprise entre 10"16 s et 10'5 s, mieux entre 10'15 s et 10"7 s. La durée est par exemple supérieure à 5.10'12s ou inférieure ou égale à 5.10'12S.The pulse duration designates the duration during which the light power reaching the keratinous fibers is greater than or equal to half of its peak power. The duration of a pulse is for example between 10 "16 s and 10 " 5 s, better between 10 '15 s and 10 "7 s. The duration is for example greater than 5.10 '12 s or less than or equal to 5.10 '12 S.
Le nombre d'impulsions lumineuses auxquelles une même portion des fibres kératiniques est exposée est par exemple réglé en fonction de l'énergie surfacique du rayonnement qui atteint les fibres kératiniques, de la couleur des fibres kératiniques et du traitement à effectuer.The number of light pulses at which the same portion of the keratinous fibers is exposed is for example adjusted according to the surface energy of the radiation which reaches the keratinous fibers, the color of the keratinous fibers and the treatment to be carried out.
De manière non limitative, dans le cas où l'on procède à plusieurs tirs sur une même portion de cheveu, la cadence des tirs est préférentiellement supérieure ou égale à 10 Hz, mieux à 100 Hz, voire supérieure ou égale à 200 Hz, 500 Hz ou 1 kHz, et préférentiellement inférieure à 100 kHz.In a nonlimiting manner, in the case where several shots are taken on the same portion of hair, the rate of shots is preferably greater than or equal to 10 Hz, better at 100 Hz, or even greater than or equal to 200 Hz, 500 Hz or 1 kHz, and preferably less than 100 kHz.
De manière non limitative, la longueur d'onde dominante de la lumière atteignant les cheveux peut être comprise entre 300 nm et 10000 nm, préférentiellement entre 400 nm et 2000 nm. La longueur d'onde dominante peut appartenir au spectre visible, ultra-violet ou infrarouge. De manière non limitative, divers filtres optiques, absorbants ou dichroïques, peuvent être utilisés de façon à filtrer la lumière irradiant la fibre, comme par exemple des filtres rejetant l'ultraviolet ou des filtres colorés permettant de protéger la couleur naturelle ou artificielle des cheveux. On choisira de préférence d'illuminer les cheveux avec une lumière qui n'est pas absorbée par certains composés sensibles du cheveu. Ces filtres colorés permettent par exemple d'éliminer ou de réduire fortement certaines composantes de la lumière qui correspondent par exemple à la bande d'absorption des colorants des cheveux ou à d'autres bandes d'absorption.In a nonlimiting manner, the dominant wavelength of the light reaching the hair may be between 300 nm and 10000 nm, preferably between 400 nm and 2000 nm. The dominant wavelength may belong to the visible spectrum, ultraviolet or infrared. Without limitation, various optical filters, absorbent or dichroic, can be used to filter the light irradiating the fiber, such as filters rejecting ultraviolet or color filters to protect the natural color or artificial hair. It will be preferable to illuminate the hair with a light that is not absorbed by certain sensitive compounds of the hair. These colored filters make it possible, for example, to eliminate or strongly reduce certain components of the light that correspond, for example, to the hair dye absorption band or to other absorption bands.
Les caractéristiques de la lumière émise sont par exemple réglées manuellement ou automatiquement, des composants optiques étant par exemple prévus pour être changés ou déplacés de façon à modifier la focalisation ou la longueur d'onde dominante de la lumière. La sélection de la longueur d'onde de la lumière projetée sur les fibres à traiter est par exemple réalisée automatiquement ou manuellement. Un utilisateur peut par exemple changer manuellement un composant optique tel qu'une lentille ou un filtre dans lequel passe, lors de l'utilisation, le rayonnement lumineux.The characteristics of the light emitted are, for example, set manually or automatically, optical components being for example designed to be changed or moved so as to modify the focus or the dominant wavelength of the light. The selection of the wavelength of the light projected onto the fibers to be treated is for example carried out automatically or manually. A user can for example manually change an optical component such as a lens or a filter in which passes, during use, the light radiation.
Un asservissement peut aussi être prévu pour réaliser un réglage automatique de paramètres d'irradiation, par exemple via un réglage d'un ou plusieurs composants optiques, ce ou ces composants optiques étant par exemple déplacés par des actionneurs commandés par un ou plusieurs signaux de commande. Ces derniers sont par exemple transmis par l'unité de calcul du système de traitement en fonction de données reçues d'un ou plusieurs capteurs, comme par exemple un capteur optique ou une caméra pouvant détecter des couleurs ou des natures de cheveux différentes. Un réglage automatique peut encore être effectué sur la base au moins de réponses à un questionnaire concernant les cheveux de la personne à traiter.Servo-control can also be provided to achieve an automatic adjustment of irradiation parameters, for example via an adjustment of one or more optical components, this or these optical components being for example displaced by actuators controlled by one or more control signals . These are for example transmitted by the computing unit of the processing system according to data received from one or more sensors, such as for example an optical sensor or a camera that can detect different colors or natures of hair. An automatic adjustment can still be made based at least on responses to a questionnaire concerning the hair of the person to be treated.
L'alimentation électrique du dispositif d'irradiation peut être autonome, par exemple être portable et intégrée à une pièce à main.The power supply of the irradiation device can be autonomous, for example be portable and integrated into a handpiece.
De manière non limitative, on peut utiliser, pour produire la lumière utiliséeWithout limitation, we can use, to produce the light used
1 Jt I S pour le traitement, des lasers « attosecondes » dont la durée d'impulsion va de 10' à 10" seconde, des lasers « femtosecondes » dont la durée d'impulsion va de 10~15 seconde à 10" seconde ou des lasers « picosecondes » dont la durée d'impulsion va de 10"12 seconde à 1 ns.1 Jt IS for the treatment, "attosecond lasers" whose pulse duration is from 10 ' to 10 " second," femtosecond "lasers whose pulse duration is from 10 ~ 15 seconds to 10 " seconds or "picosecond" lasers with pulse duration ranging from 10 "12 seconds to 1 ns.
On peut utiliser des lasers pompés par flash qui ont en général une durée d'impulsion aux alentours de la nanoseconde ou des lasers pompés par diode dont la durée d'impulsion va en général d'une nanoseconde à une centaine de nanosecondes. Le dispositif d'irradiation comporte par exemple un laser ayant une cavité formée par deux miroirs situés de part et d'autre d'un matériau amplificateur à large bande, par exemple à base de titane-saphir ou à base d'ytterbium. La cavité peut aussi être formée par une fibre optique réalisée dans un matériau amplificateur. Le dispositif d'irradiation peut comporter un dispositif de blocage de mode.Flash-pumped lasers generally have a pulse duration around the nanosecond or diode-pumped lasers whose pulse duration generally ranges from one nanosecond to one hundred nanoseconds. The irradiation device comprises for example a laser having a cavity formed by two mirrors located on either side of a broadband amplifying material, for example based on titanium-sapphire or ytterbium-based. The cavity may also be formed by an optical fiber made of an amplifier material. The irradiation device may comprise a mode-locking device.
Le dispositif d'irradiation peut comporter une lentille associée au laser, ayant une ouverture numérique comprise par exemple entre 0,1 et 1, telle qu'une lentille utilisée pour la lecture de disques optiques de stockage. Le dispositif d'irradiation peut aussi comporter un coupleur pour injecter la lumière de pompage et un coupleur pour extraire les impulsions laser. La lumière de pompage est par exemple produite par une diode mais peut aussi être produite par une lampe flash ou par un autre laser.The irradiation device may comprise a lens associated with the laser, having a numerical aperture of, for example, between 0.1 and 1, such as a lens used for reading optical storage disks. The irradiation device may also include a coupler for injecting the pump light and a coupler for extracting the laser pulses. The pumping light is for example produced by a diode but can also be produced by a flash lamp or by another laser.
Quel que soit le générateur de lumière utilisé, chacun des tirs a par exemple une puissance de crête de 1 MW à 1000 GW, mieux 1 MW à 100 GW.Whatever the light generator used, each shot has for example a peak power of 1 MW to 1000 GW, better 1 MW to 100 GW.
Le dispositif d'irradiation utilise par exemple un laser dont la puissance électrique moyenne est comprise entre 0,001 W et 50 W et qui délivre par exemple des puissances crêtes allant de 1 MW à 100 GW.The irradiation device uses for example a laser whose average electrical power is between 0.001 W and 50 W and which delivers for example peak powers ranging from 1 MW to 100 GW.
Le nombre de tirs subis par la portion traitée est par exemple compris entre 1 et 10000 tirs, préférentiellement entre 5 et 1000 tirs.The number of shots suffered by the treated portion is for example between 1 and 10,000 shots, preferably between 5 and 1000 shots.
La lumière atteignant les fibres kératiniques a par exemple une fluence de l'ordre de 1 à quelques J/cm2, par exemple moins de 5 J/cm2. La fluence peut par exemple varier de 0,lmJ/mm2 à 50mJ/mm2, par exemple en fonction des rendements, des durées d'impulsion ou de réglages effectués en fonction du type de cheveux.The light reaching the keratin fibers has for example a fluence of the order of 1 to a few J / cm 2 , for example less than 5 J / cm 2 . The fluence may, for example, vary from 0.1mJ / mm 2 to 50mJ / mm 2 , for example depending on the yields, pulse durations or adjustments made according to the type of hair.
Une interface utilisateur, avec par exemple un écran et une ou plusieurs touches de sélection, peut par exemple permettre de choisir parmi différents modes de fonctionnement et/ou de modifier la durée des impulsions, l'énergie fournie par tir et/ou la fréquence des tirs.A user interface, for example with a screen and one or more selection keys, may for example make it possible to choose from different operating modes and / or to modify the duration of the pulses, the energy supplied by the shot and / or the frequency of the pulses. shots.
Des composants optiques non linéaires peuvent être utilisés pour doubler ou tripler la fréquence ou réaliser un étalement du spectre de la lumière atteignant les fibres traitées. Le dispositif d'irradiation peut comporter un dispositif de collimation du faisceau lumineux et ainsi utiliser un laser moins puissant pour une énergie d'irradiation identique, mais néanmoins suffisante pour réaliser le traitement souhaité des cheveux. Le dispositif de collimation est par exemple réglable afin de régler la fluence de la lumière atteignant les fibres kératiniques. Ce réglage est par exemple réalisé manuellement ou automatiquement, par exemple en fonction de la couleur des fibres kératiniques à traiter ou en fonction d'un degré de résultat souhaité. Le dispositif de collimation peut comporter plusieurs lentilles, convergentes et/ou divergentes.Non-linear optical components may be used to double or triple the frequency or to spread the spectrum of light reaching the treated fibers. The irradiation device may comprise a collimation device of the light beam and thus use a less powerful laser for an irradiation energy identical, but nevertheless sufficient to achieve the desired treatment of the hair. The Collimation device is for example adjustable in order to adjust the fluence of the light reaching the keratinous fibers. This adjustment is for example made manually or automatically, for example depending on the color of the keratin fibers to be treated or according to a desired degree of result. The collimation device may comprise several lenses, convergent and / or divergent.
Le dispositif d'irradiation peut être utilisé à proximité des cheveux ou met en œuvre un transport de la lumière jusqu'au milieu transparent. Différents éléments optiques peuvent être utilisés pour le transport de la lumière, tels qu'une optique de collimation, un ou plusieurs miroirs et/ou déflecteurs optiques et/ou un conduit optique tel qu'une ou plusieurs fibres optiques.The irradiation device can be used near the hair or implements a transport of light to the transparent medium. Different optical elements may be used for the transport of light, such as a collimation optics, one or more optical mirrors and / or deflectors and / or an optical conduit such as one or more optical fibers.
Un déflecteur optique peut servir à orienter le trajet des rayons lumineux en fonction de données d'adressage. Le déflecteur optique est par exemple commandé par l'unité de calcul pour amener le faisceau lumineux sur la portion des fibres kératiniques à traiter. Le dispositif d'irradiation peut aussi être équipé de moyens de confinement ou d'absorption de la lumière, pour piéger la lumière et l'empêcher de diffuser hors d'une zone de traitement.An optical deflector can be used to orient the path of the light rays according to addressing data. The optical deflector is for example controlled by the computing unit to bring the light beam onto the portion of the keratinous fibers to be treated. The irradiation device may also be equipped with means for confining or absorbing light, for trapping the light and preventing it from diffusing out of a treatment zone.
La sortie optique peut avoir toute forme, être unique ou multiple. Le dispositif d'irradiation comporte par exemple une sortie optique circulaire ou qui est sous la forme d'une ou plusieurs fentes, lesquelles peuvent avoir divers profils.The optical output can be any shape, be unique or multiple. The irradiation device comprises for example a circular optical output or which is in the form of one or more slots, which can have various profiles.
La sortie optique peut être au contact du milieu transparent.The optical output may be in contact with the transparent medium.
Procédés et système de traitementProcesses and treatment system
Le procédé de traitement selon l'invention peut s'appliquer à un cheveu mais de préférence à une mèche de cheveu comportant par exemple entre 100 et 10.000 cheveux.The treatment method according to the invention can be applied to a hair but preferably to a lock of hair comprising for example between 100 and 10,000 hair.
Le procédé peut s'appliquer à une portion de cette mèche ou à plusieurs portions de cette mèche, disjointes voire à la totalité de la mèche. La mèche qui est irradiée peut comporter une seule couche de cheveu irradiée mais de préférence le traitement est mis en œuvre avec plusieurs couches de cheveux superposées, l'épaisseur traitée étant ainsi supérieure à celle d'un cheveu.The method can be applied to a portion of this wick or to several portions of this wick, disjoined or even to the entire wick. The wick which is irradiated may comprise a single layer of irradiated hair, but preferably the treatment is carried out with several superposed layers of hair, the treated thickness thus being greater than that of a hair.
Sur les figures la et 2a, on a illustré le traitement d'une mèche comportant trois couches de cheveux superposées mais bien entendu l'invention n'est pas limitée à un nombre de couches particulier ni à une disposition régulière des cheveux au sein de chaque couche, l'empilement des cheveux dans la zone de traitement pouvant se faire de manière non régulière sans que les différentes couches empilées ne soient clairement discernables.In Figures la and 2a, there is illustrated the treatment of a wick having three layers of hair superimposed but of course the invention is not limited to a number of layers or a regular arrangement of the hair within each layer, the stack of hair in the treatment area can be done in a non-regular manner without the different stacked layers are clearly discernible.
Conformément à un aspect de l'invention, au moins un cheveu H est au contact d'un milieu transparent M qui présente un indice de réfraction supérieur à 1,3 et qui contribue à amener la lumière au(x) cheveu(x) à traiter.According to one aspect of the invention, at least one hair H is in contact with a transparent medium M which has a refractive index greater than 1.3 and which contributes to bringing the light to the hair (x) to treat.
Sur la figure Ib, on a illustré la possibilité pour le milieu M de ne pas englober toute l'épaisseur de la mèche et de n'être en contact par exemple que des couches superficielles de celle-ci. Sur la figure 2b, on a illustré la possibilité pour l'ensemble de la mèche d'être au contact du milieu transparent M.In Figure Ib, there is illustrated the possibility for the medium M not to encompass the entire thickness of the wick and not be in contact for example that the surface layers thereof. In Figure 2b, there is illustrated the possibility for the entire wick to be in contact with the transparent medium M.
La lumière est amenée aux cheveux en traversant une face d'entrée I du milieu M qui présente avantageusement une forme prédéfinie, par exemple plane comme illustré sur les figures Ib et 2b. La surface d'entrée du milieu qui est traversée par la lumière incidente lors d'un tir est par exemple comprise entre 10.000 μm2 et 100 cm2.The light is brought to the hair through an input face I of the medium M which advantageously has a predefined shape, for example flat as illustrated in Figures Ib and 2b. The entrance surface of the medium which is traversed by the incident light during a firing is for example between 10.000 μm 2 and 100 cm 2 .
Le fait d'avoir une forme prédéfinie pour la face d'entrée I dans le milieu M permet de maitriser la pénétration de la lumière dans le milieu et donc d'optimiser la quantité de la lumière atteignant les cheveux. On peut également éviter qu'un cheveu soit irradié avec une quantité d'énergie élevée alors qu'il n'est pas immergé dans le milieu.The fact of having a predefined shape for the input face I in the medium M makes it possible to control the penetration of light into the medium and thus to optimize the amount of light reaching the hair. It can also be avoided that a hair is irradiated with a high amount of energy while it is not immersed in the medium.
Tous les cheveux de la première couche, superficielle, peuvent ainsi se situer derrière la surface d'entrée I.All the hair of the first layer, superficial, can thus be located behind the entrance surface I.
Sur les figures la et 2a, on a représenté la surface extérieure du milieu M avec une forme irrégulière pour illustrer le fait que la surface d'entrée de la lumière n'est pas de forme prédéfinie.In Figures 1a and 2a, there is shown the outer surface of the medium M with an irregular shape to illustrate that the entrance surface of the light is not of predefined shape.
Pour conférer à la surface d'entrée I une forme prédéfinie, de multiples possibilités existent.To give the input surface I a predefined shape, multiple possibilities exist.
On peut par exemple aplanir ou araser le milieu de façon à imposer sa forme à la face d'entrée 1, l'arasement ou l'aplanis sèment pouvant s'effectuer par exemple manuellement ou de façon automatique.For example, it is possible to flatten or level the medium so as to impose its shape on the input face 1, the leveling or flattening can be done for example manually or automatically.
L'utilisateur peut par exemple déplacer un organe du système de traitement pour aplanir la surface du milieu, On peut encore définir la forme de la surface d'entrée de la lumière dans le milieu avec une paroi transparente 10, au contact du milieu M, comme illustré sur les figures 3 et 4.The user can for example move an organ of the treatment system to flatten the surface of the medium, It is also possible to define the shape of the entrance surface of the light in the medium with a transparent wall 10, in contact with the medium M, as illustrated in FIGS. 3 and 4.
Sur ces figures, on a représenté de façon très schématique et partielle un système de traitement 15 qui comporte un conduit optique 16 d'amenée de la lumière jusqu'à la paroi transparente 10 au contact de milieu M.In these figures, there is very schematically and partially shown a processing system 15 which comprises an optical conduit 16 for supplying light to the transparent wall 10 in contact with medium M.
Le cheveux H sont confinés dans un système de guidage 20 qui définit au moins partiellement l'espace de traitement 21 contenant le milieu M. L'épaisseur e de cet espace de traitement 21 est par exemple comprise entre 1 mm et 5 mm, pouvant accueillir par exemple entre 1 et 20 couches de cheveux, par exemple trois couches.The hair H are confined in a guide system 20 which at least partially defines the treatment space 21 containing the medium M. The thickness e of this treatment space 21 is for example between 1 mm and 5 mm, accommodating for example between 1 and 20 layers of hair, for example three layers.
La largeur L de l'espace de traitement 21 est par exemple comprise entre 5 mm et 30 mm.The width L of the treatment space 21 is for example between 5 mm and 30 mm.
Le milieu M présent dans l'espace de traitement 21 peut y être amené de différentes façons. Le milieu M est par exemple déposé sur les cheveux avant que ceux-ci ne pénètrent dans l'espace de traitement.The medium M present in the processing space 21 can be brought there in different ways. The medium M is for example deposited on the hair before they enter the treatment space.
En variante, l'espace de traitement est alimenté en milieu transparent par le système de guidage, par exemple par des côtés du canal dans lequel s'étendent les cheveux, par exemple par un ou plusieurs orifices 26 lesquels communiquent avec une source du fluide destiné à constituer le milieu transparent.In a variant, the treatment space is supplied in a transparent medium by the guiding system, for example by the sides of the channel in which the hair extends, for example by one or more orifices 26 which communicate with a source of the fluid intended to to constitute the transparent medium.
Le cas échéant, un système de récupération non représenté, tel que par exemple un bac, peut être disposé de façon à récupérer le milieu qui s'écoule par les extrémités longitudinales du canal du système de guidage, par lesquelles entrent et sortent les cheveux. Ces extrémités longitudinales peuvent éventuellement être munies d'un système d'étanchéité, par exemple de joints qui passent entre eux les cheveux.If necessary, a not shown recovery system, such as for example a tray, may be arranged to recover the medium flowing through the longitudinal ends of the channel of the guide system, through which the hair enters and leaves. These longitudinal ends may optionally be provided with a sealing system, for example joints that pass between them hair.
Le système de traitement peut être agencé pour exercer une pression ou une tension sur les cheveux à traiter, de façon à assurer une bonne inclusion des cheveux dans le milieu transparent M.The treatment system may be arranged to exert pressure or tension on the hair to be treated, so as to ensure good inclusion of the hair in the transparent medium M.
Dans l'exemple de la figure 3, la mèche de cheveux est immobile relativement au système de guidage 20 la paroi transparente 10 peut se déplacer longitudinalement relativement au système de guidage 20 pour traiter la mèche s 'étendant dans le système de guidage. En se déplaçant, la paroi transparente 10 écrase le milieu transparent M, ce qui garantit sa planéité au contact de la paroi transparente 10, l'absence d'air permet également bien étaler les cheveux présents dans le système de guidage.In the example of Figure 3, the lock of hair is stationary relative to the guide system 20 the transparent wall 10 can move longitudinally relative to the guide system 20 to process the wick extending in the guide system. By moving, the transparent wall 10 crushes the transparent medium M, which ensures its flatness in contact with the transparent wall 10, the absence of air also allows to spread the hair present in the guide system.
La paroi transparente 10, qui définit la sortie optique du dispositif d'irradiation, peut avoir son déplacement relativement au système de guidage assuré manuellement ou en variante automatiquement, le système de traitement comportant par exemple un actuateur pour déplacer la sortie optique de façon asservie à l'émission des impulsions lumineuses.The transparent wall 10, which defines the optical output of the irradiation device, may have its displacement relatively to the guidance system provided manually or alternatively automatically, the processing system comprising for example an actuator for moving the optical output in a controlled manner to the emission of light pulses.
Eventuellement, on peut asservir la distribution du fluide destiné à constituer le milieu transparent à l'avancée de la sortie optique, afin de faire coïncider la distribution du fluide et le positionnement de la sortie optique.Optionally, one can control the distribution of the fluid intended to constitute the transparent medium to the advance of the optical output, in order to coincide the distribution of the fluid and the positioning of the optical output.
On peut encore, dans une autre variante, prévoir que le fluide ne soit pas distribué par des orifices du système de guidage mais par une partie du système de traitement qui comporte la sortie optique. De préférence, le fluide est distribué par au moins un orifice qui est situé en amont de la sortie optique eu égard au sens de déplacement de celle-ci, afin que le fluide ait le temps d'imprégner les cheveux avant l'arrivée de la lumière.It is also possible, in another variant, to provide that the fluid is not distributed through orifices of the guidance system but by a part of the treatment system which comprises the optical output. Preferably, the fluid is distributed by at least one orifice which is located upstream of the optical output with respect to the direction of movement thereof, so that the fluid has time to impregnate the hair before the arrival of the light.
Dans une variante illustrée à la figure 5, la sortie optique est solidaire d'un récipient 40 rempli du liquide destiné à constituer le milieu transparent. Le système de traitement 15 comporte une pièce à main 42 sur laquelle est monté le réservoir et qui supporte la sortie optique.In a variant illustrated in Figure 5, the optical output is secured to a container 40 filled with the liquid to form the transparent medium. The processing system 15 comprises a handpiece 42 on which the reservoir is mounted and which supports the optical output.
Les cheveux peuvent traverser un espace de traitement dans lequel débouche un orifice communiquant avec le réservoir.The hair can pass through a treatment space into which an orifice communicating with the reservoir opens.
La pièce à main peut être déplacée le long des cheveux.The handpiece can be moved along the hair.
L'irradiation peut se faire automatiquement, en fonction du déplacement et/ou être commandée par l'opérateur.The irradiation can be done automatically, depending on the displacement and / or be controlled by the operator.
Bien entendu, l'invention n'est pas limitée aux exemples qui viennent d'être décrits.Of course, the invention is not limited to the examples which have just been described.
L'expression « comportant un » doit être comprise comme étant synonyme de « comportant au moins un », sauf si le contraire est spécifié. The expression "having one" shall be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Procédé de traitement des cheveux, dans lequel on expose au moins une portion d'au moins un cheveu (H) à au moins une impulsion lumineuse au travers d'un milieu transparent (M) fluide ou ayant solidifié, d'indice de réfraction supérieur ou égal à 1,3, ce milieu étant au contact du ou des cheveux et s'étendant entre le ou les cheveux et une surface (I) d'entrée de la lumière dans le milieu, de préférence de forme prédéfinie.1. Hair treatment method, in which at least a portion of at least one hair (H) is exposed to at least one light pulse through a fluid medium (M) which has a fluidity or solidification, refraction greater than or equal to 1.3, this medium being in contact with the hair or hair and extending between the hair or hair and a surface (I) for entering the light into the medium, preferably of predefined shape.
2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, la forme de la surface (I) d'entrée de la lumière étant définie par une paroi transparente (10) d'un dispositif d'irradiation au contact du milieu transparent.2. Method according to claim 1, the shape of the surface (I) of entry of the light being defined by a transparent wall (10) of an irradiation device in contact with the transparent medium.
3. Procédé selon la revendication 1, la forme de la surface (I) d'entrée de Ia lumière étant définie par arasement ou aplanissement du milieu (M) préalablement à l'exposition à l'impulsion lumineuse.3. Method according to claim 1, the shape of the surface (I) of entry of light being defined by leveling or flattening of the medium (M) prior to exposure to the light pulse.
4. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, toute la section d'au moins un cheveu traité (H) étant incluse dans le milieu transparent (M).4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the entire section of at least one treated hair (H) being included in the transparent medium (M).
5. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, comportant au moins deux couches de cheveux superposées inclues dans le milieu transparent et exposées simultanément à la ou aux impulsions lumineuses.5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least two superimposed layers of hair included in the transparent medium and exposed simultaneously to the light pulse or pulses.
6. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, le ou les cheveux traités étant confinés dans un système de guidage (20) définissant un espace de traitement contenant les cheveux et le milieu transparent.The method of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the treated hair (s) is confined in a guiding system (20) defining a treatment space containing the hair and the transparent medium.
7. Procédé selon la revendication précédente, les cheveux étant tassés dans l'espace de traitement.7. Method according to the preceding claim, the hair being packed in the treatment space.
8. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, l'impulsion lumineuse ayant une puissance de crête supérieure ou égale à 10 W.8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the light pulse having a peak power greater than or equal to 10 W.
9. Procédé selon Tune quelconque des revendications précédentes, le milieu transparent contenant au moins un composé organique en une teneur massique supérieure ou égale à 25 %.9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, the transparent medium containing at least one organic compound in a mass content greater than or equal to 25%.
10. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, le milieu transparent étant distribué sur les cheveux à partir d'au moins un orifice d'amenée (26) dudit milieu transparent, occupant une position variable par rapport aux cheveux, entre deux impulsions lumineuses. 10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the transparent medium being distributed on the hair from at least one supply port (26) of said transparent medium, occupying a variable position relative to the hair, between two pulses. bright.
11. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, l'indice de réfraction du milieu étant supérieur ou égal à 1,4.11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the refractive index of the medium being greater than or equal to 1.4.
12. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, visant à décolorer les cheveux et/ou à en modifier la forme. 12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, aimed at bleaching the hair and / or modifying its shape.
13. Procédé selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, la durée des impulsions étant supérieure à 5.10"12s.13. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, the pulse duration being greater than 5.10 "12 sec.
14. Système (15) de traitement des cheveux, comportant : une source de lumière impulsionnelle, une source d'un milieu transparent, fluide ou solidifiable, d'indice de réfraction supérieur ou égal à 1 ,3 , un système de guidage des cheveux à traiter, configuré de manière à recevoir les cheveux à traiter, le système de traitement étant configuré pour amener le milieu transparent au contact des cheveux et de préférence définir une surface (I) d'entrée de la lumière dans le milieu, de forme prédéfinie .Hair treatment system (15), comprising: a source of pulsed light, a source of a transparent, fluid or solidifiable medium, of refractive index greater than or equal to 1, 3, a hair guidance system to be treated, configured to receive the hair to be treated, the treatment system being configured to bring the transparent medium into contact with the hair and preferably define an input surface (I) of the light in the medium, of predefined shape .
15. Système selon la revendication précédente, l'espace de traitement exposé aux impulsions de lumière entourant de toute part le ou les cheveux traités, dans au moins une section prise transversalement au(x) cheveu(x) traité(s). 15. System according to the preceding claim, the treatment space exposed to the pulses of light surrounding the treated hair or on all sides, in at least one section taken transversely to the (x) hair (x) treated (s).
EP08864854A 2007-12-10 2008-12-10 Hair treatment method involving irradiation through an optical medium Withdrawn EP2229216A2 (en)

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FR0759677A FR2924597B1 (en) 2007-12-10 2007-12-10 PROCESS FOR TREATING KERATIN FIBERS HAVING THEIR EXPOSURE TO LOW-LIFE LIGHT PULSES
US654008P 2008-01-18 2008-01-18
PCT/FR2008/052266 WO2009080988A2 (en) 2007-12-10 2008-12-10 Hair treatment method involving irradiation through an optical medium

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EP (1) EP2229216A2 (en)
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US20110017227A1 (en) 2011-01-27
FR2924597B1 (en) 2014-06-13
WO2009080988A3 (en) 2009-09-03
WO2009074957A1 (en) 2009-06-18
WO2009080988A2 (en) 2009-07-02

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