EP2221403A1 - Multi-part yarn and leg clothing produced from the same - Google Patents
Multi-part yarn and leg clothing produced from the same Download PDFInfo
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- EP2221403A1 EP2221403A1 EP09013999A EP09013999A EP2221403A1 EP 2221403 A1 EP2221403 A1 EP 2221403A1 EP 09013999 A EP09013999 A EP 09013999A EP 09013999 A EP09013999 A EP 09013999A EP 2221403 A1 EP2221403 A1 EP 2221403A1
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- yarn
- component
- staple fiber
- partially
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- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 46
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 claims description 17
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229920002994 synthetic fiber Polymers 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000012209 synthetic fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920000433 Lyocell Polymers 0.000 abstract description 4
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 abstract description 2
- 229920003043 Cellulose fiber Polymers 0.000 abstract 2
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 description 14
- 238000005299 abrasion Methods 0.000 description 11
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 11
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 description 10
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 7
- 239000002657 fibrous material Substances 0.000 description 6
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 5
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 4
- -1 cupro Polymers 0.000 description 4
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 4
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- FJQXCDYVZAHXNS-UHFFFAOYSA-N methadone hydrochloride Chemical compound Cl.C=1C=CC=CC=1C(CC(C)N(C)C)(C(=O)CC)C1=CC=CC=C1 FJQXCDYVZAHXNS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000006187 pill Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 230000035900 sweating Effects 0.000 description 3
- 239000004743 Polypropylene Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000008014 freezing Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000007710 freezing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 229920001155 polypropylene Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000009991 scouring Methods 0.000 description 2
- 235000003301 Ceiba pentandra Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 244000146553 Ceiba pentandra Species 0.000 description 1
- 241001503987 Clematis vitalba Species 0.000 description 1
- 206010016326 Feeling cold Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 206010020112 Hirsutism Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002250 absorbent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000001242 acetic acid derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 210000000077 angora Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 210000000085 cashmere Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000018109 developmental process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011835 investigation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001788 irregular Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009971 piece dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920002635 polyurethane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004814 polyurethane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000007 visual effect Effects 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/38—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
- D02G1/16—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
- D02G1/161—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam yarn crimping air jets
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
- D02G1/18—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics by combining fibres, filaments, or yarns, having different shrinkage characteristics
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
- D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
- D02J1/08—Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
Definitions
- the invention relates to a multicomponent yarn consisting of at least two components and to a knitted article of knitwear made of such a yarn.
- Under garment are understood all garments that are used to dress the foot or leg, including tights, socks, stockings, booties and the like.
- DIN EN ISO 12945 and DIN EN ISO 12947 contain guidelines for determining the inclination of textile fabrics for lint formation on the surface and the tendency to pill or for determining the abrasion resistance of textile fabrics.
- the determination The Pill inclination and the abrasion resistance is carried out according to the explained in these DIN sheets so-called Martindale method. In this case, a round sample with a defined force in the form of a Lissajous figure is moved over a friction surface or a scouring agent. The lint and pilling is checked by visual assessment after a set number of pills, while the abrasion resistance of the fabric is determined from the assessment of area change.
- the present invention seeks to provide a Mehrkomponentengarn processed in textile fabrics, especially legwear pieces of knitwear, is characterized in that the fabric thus produced combines a particularly high abrasion resistance with very low Pilling tendency.
- the novel multicomponent yarn is composed of at least one synthetic textured filament yarn containing or consisting of such a first component and at least one second component consisting of a spun staple fiber yarn.
- the first component is a air-blown textured filament yarn.
- the two components have a similar fineness and optical structure and are twisted together to form a twisted staple yarn of similar optics.
- the filament yarn consists in an advantageous embodiment, at least partially, of polyamide.
- the staple fiber yarn several types of fibers come into question. It may, at least partially, consist of vegetable natural fibers or animal natural fibers or synthetic fibers. It can also be composed of a mixture of different natural and / or synthetic fibers.
- the air-textured yarn after FIG. 1 consists of a number of endless synthetic filaments and has a substantially closed package from which project more or less large filament loops or loops. These filament loops or loops are distributed at irregular intervals along the surface and partially designed to be self-intersecting. This results in a spun yarn similar structure as the comparison with the staple fiber yarn FIG. 2 shows conspicuously. While in the staple fiber yarn from the package protruding fiber parts in the vast majority have open ends, the air-textured yarn, as mentioned, no protruding free fiber ends, but closed loops or loops exist that have a similar "hairiness" or bulkiness as in cause a staple fiber yarn. By using appropriately selected filament and staple fiber materials and grades, it is possible to achieve that a blown-through textured yarn and staple fiber yarn have an optically similar structure.
- both yarn components must be firmly bonded together and appear on the outside of the multi-component yarn, so that the property of the two components forming fiber materials to combine the surprising combination effect, which is that with high abrasion resistance, a very low pilling tendency occurs.
- the mass-related proportions of the two components in the multicomponent yarn are, as has been shown, advantageously in a range between 65/35 and 50/50, but deviating proportions are conceivable.
- both the filament component and the staple fiber component make up the larger or smaller proportion, depending on which demands are placed on the knitted fabric in which the new multicomponent yarn is knitted.
- the two components are, as mentioned, so twisted together that the fibers of both components act on the outside of the multi-component yarn. This ensures that the appearance of the multi-component yarn forming twine corresponds to that of a normal Stapelfasergarns. This is in contrast to the so-called high bulk yarns, such as those made in various designs by air blast texturing and used for various purposes.
- Yarns made from these multicomponent yarns had excellent rub resistance. They were not worn through in the abrasion test at 6000 tours in the Martindale device.
- Knitted fabrics from the multicomponent yarns 1 and 3 also gave excellent pilling properties, because even after 5,000 rubs in the pilling test virtually no pilling formation occurred.
- the yarn 2 showed very good pilling properties which were slightly lower than those of the yarns 1, 3.
- Socks made from these yarns are characterized by their high wearing comfort. They were considered by climbers to be climatically balanced, i. H. felt dry to the touch without feeling cold and sweating. The socks show only a slight crease tendency and also have a good suitability for piece dyeing.
- natural vegetable fibers of which the staple yarn component may consist are cotton, kapok, linen, etc., or a mixture of these fibers
- a staple fiber component consists of animal natural fibers of wool, cashmere, angora or etc. or a mixture of such fibers
- Synthetic fiber material for use in the staple fiber component may include viscose, acetates, lyocell, cupro, polyamide, polyester, polypropylene, polyacrylic, etc., or a blend of these fiber materials.
- the fiber material of the filament yarn component may also comprise polyester, polypropylene, polyacrylic, polyurethane etc. or mixtures of these filament materials with each other and with polyamide filaments.
- Staple fiber yarn of viscose fiber material is in a special quality, which can be used for the new component yarn with advantage under the trade name Tencel ® Lenzing AG in the trade.
- the new multicomponent yarn can basically be used for the production of any textile fabrics, in particular crocheted fabrics, where high abrasion resistance and low pilling tendency are important.
- it has proven to be particularly advantageous for use in legwear pieces, because when using a moisture-absorbent staple fiber material, for example viscose or cotton, in addition to the properties mentioned a balanced moisture balance is added, which increases the comfort in a surprising manner.
Abstract
Description
Die Erfindung betrifft ein aus zumindest zwei Komponenten bestehendes Mehrkomponentengarn und ein aus einem solchen Garn hergestelltes Beinbekleidungsstück aus Maschenware. Unter Beinbekleidungsstück sind dabei alle Kleidungsstücke verstanden, die zur Bekleidung des Fußes oder Beines dienen, einschließlich Strumpfhosen, Socken, Strümpfe, Füßlinge und dergleichen.The invention relates to a multicomponent yarn consisting of at least two components and to a knitted article of knitwear made of such a yarn. Under garment are understood all garments that are used to dress the foot or leg, including tights, socks, stockings, booties and the like.
Es ist bekannt, dass beispielsweise Socken oder Strümpfe im Gebrauch einerseits sehr hohen Beanspruchungen ausgesetzt sind, andererseits aber dem Träger möglichst hohen Tragekomfort vermitteln sollen. Zu diesem Tragekomfort trägt ein sogenanntes trockenes Tragegefühl bei, bei dem der Träger möglichst kein Schwitzen oder Frieren am Bein oder Fuß verspürt, sondern das Beinbekleidungsstück als "klimatisch ausgewogen" empfindet. Ein Gefühl des Frierens oder Schwitzens kommt insbesondere durch Schweißabsonderung und mangelnde Feuchtigkeitsaufnahme des Beinbekleidungsstücks sowie dadurch zustande, dass dieses Mängel hinsichtlich der Luftdurchlässigkeit zeigt.It is known that, for example, socks or stockings in use, on the one hand, are exposed to very high stresses, but on the other hand, they are intended to convey the wearer the highest possible wearing comfort. This wearing comfort contributes to a so-called dry wearing feeling in which the wearer feels as possible no sweating or freezing on the leg or foot, but feels the leg clothing as "climatically balanced". A feeling of freezing or sweating is caused, in particular, by perspiration and lack of moisture absorption of the leggings and by the fact that this shows a lack of air permeability.
Um die mechanische Beanspruchbarkeit von textilen Flächengebilden schlechthin und auch die von Beinbekleidungsstücken wie Strümpfen oder Socken, im Textilprüflabor festzustellen, sind in DIN EN ISO 12945 und DIN EN ISO 12947 Richtlinien für die Bestimmung der Neigung von textilen Flächengebilden zur Flusenbildung auf der Oberfläche und der Pillneigung bzw. zur Bestimmung des Scheuerbeständigkeit von textilen Flächengebilden festgelegt. Die Bestimmung der Pillneigung und der Scheuerbeständigkeit erfolgt dabei nach dem in diesen DIN-Blättern erläuterten sogenannten Martindale-Verfahren. Dabei wird eine runde Probe mit festgelegter Kraft in Form einer Lissajous-Figur über eine Reibfläche bzw. ein Scheuermittel bewegt. Die Flusen- und Pillbildung wird durch visuelle Beurteilung nach einer festgelegten Anzahl von Pill-Touren überprüft, während die Scheuerbeständigkeit des textilen Flächengebildes aus der Beurteilung der Flächenveränderung bestimmt wird.In order to determine the mechanical resistance of textile fabrics par excellence as well as those of leg garments such as stockings or socks in the textile testing laboratory, DIN EN ISO 12945 and DIN EN ISO 12947 contain guidelines for determining the inclination of textile fabrics for lint formation on the surface and the tendency to pill or for determining the abrasion resistance of textile fabrics. The determination The Pill inclination and the abrasion resistance is carried out according to the explained in these DIN sheets so-called Martindale method. In this case, a round sample with a defined force in the form of a Lissajous figure is moved over a friction surface or a scouring agent. The lint and pilling is checked by visual assessment after a set number of pills, while the abrasion resistance of the fabric is determined from the assessment of area change.
Untersuchungen im Textil-Prüflabor haben gezeigt, dass beispielsweise Socken, die in 14er Teilung aus einem Baumwollgarn der Feinheit Nm 34/1 gestrickt sind, bei einer mittleren Garnqualität bereits bei 500 Scheuertouren im Martindale-Gerät eine deutliche Pilling-Bildung zeigen. Beim Scheuertest versagen diese Produkte meistens bei etwa 4000 Touren. Durch die Verwendung von besseren Baumwollqualitäten kann die Scheuerbeständigkeit dieser Socken auf zum Beispiel bis zu 6000 Scheuertouren verbessert werden, wobei sich dafür aber die Pilling-Neigung verschlechtert. Ähnliche Effekte treten auf, wenn die Baumwollfasern mit Chemiefasern (zum Beispiel Polyamid, Polyester) gemischt sind oder Zwirne aus Baumwollgarnen eingesetzt wurden. Dabei wurde das Scheuerverhalten gegebenenfalls verbessert, während aber andererseits die Pilling-Bildung zunahm. Diese Effekte lassen sich, wie sich zeigt, auch umkehren. Beim Einsatz von Baumwollqualitäten, die weniger Pilling-Neigung erkennen lassen, wurde der Scheuertest nicht mehr bestanden.Investigations in the textile testing laboratory have shown that, for example, socks that are knit at a pitch of 14 from a cotton yarn of the mesh size Nm 34/1 show a significant pilling formation with an average yarn quality of 500 scrub tests in the Martindale machine. In the scrub test, these products usually fail at around 4,000 tours. By using better cotton qualities, the abrasion resistance of these socks can be improved to, for example, up to 6,000 rubs, but the pilling tendency for them deteriorates. Similar effects occur when the cotton fibers are mixed with manmade fibers (for example, polyamide, polyester) or twines made from cotton yarns. The scrub behavior was possibly improved, but on the other hand, the pilling formation increased. These effects can also be reversed, as it turns out. When using cotton grades that show less pilling tendency, the abrasion test was no longer passed.
Grundsätzlich ähnliche Erfahrungen wurden mit Socken gemacht, in denen Mischgarne verstrickt sind, die aus Viskosefasern mit zugemischten Polyamidfasern bestehen, wobei der Polyamidfaseranteil üblicherweise 10% bis 20% beträgt. Viskosefasern sind Fasern mit sehr weichem Griff und hoher Feuchtigkeitsaufnahme, die sich aber wegen ihrer sehr geringen Scheuerfestigkeit für den Einsatz in Socken nur bedingt eignen.Basically similar experiences have been made with socks in which blended yarns are knitted of viscose fibers with admixed polyamide fibers, the polyamide fiber content usually being 10% to 20%. Viscose fibers are fibers with a very soft feel and high moisture absorption, but because of their very low Abrasion resistance for use in socks only partially suitable.
Ausgehend von diesem Stand der Technik liegt der Erfindung die Aufgabe zugrunde, ein Mehrkomponentengarn zu schaffen, das in textilen Flächengebilden, insbesondere Beinbekleidungsstücken aus Maschenware verarbeitet, sich dadurch auszeichnet, dass das so erzeugte textile Flächengebilde eine besonders hohe Scheuerfestigkeit mit sehr geringer Pillingneigung verbindet.Based on this prior art, the present invention seeks to provide a Mehrkomponentengarn processed in textile fabrics, especially legwear pieces of knitwear, is characterized in that the fabric thus produced combines a particularly high abrasion resistance with very low Pilling tendency.
Zur Lösung dieser Aufgabe weist das Mehrkomponentengarn gemäß der Erfindung die Merkmale des Patentanspruchs 1 auf. Weiterbildungen sind Gegenstand von Unteransprüchen.To solve this problem, the multi-component yarn according to the invention, the features of claim 1. Further developments are the subject of dependent claims.
Das neue Mehrkomponentengarn ist aus wenigstens einer, synthetisches texturiertes Filamentgarn enthaltenden oder aus einem solchen bestehenden ersten Komponente und wenigstens einer zweiten Komponenten zusammengesetzt, die aus einem spinngedrehten Stapelfasergarn besteht. Die erste Komponente ist ein luftblas-texturiertes Filamentgarn. Die beiden Komponenten weisen eine ähnliche Feinheit und optische Struktur auf und sind unter Erzeugung eines Zwirns mit Stapelfasergarn ähnlicher Optik miteinander verzwirnt.The novel multicomponent yarn is composed of at least one synthetic textured filament yarn containing or consisting of such a first component and at least one second component consisting of a spun staple fiber yarn. The first component is a air-blown textured filament yarn. The two components have a similar fineness and optical structure and are twisted together to form a twisted staple yarn of similar optics.
Das Filamentgarn besteht in einer vorteilhaften Ausführungsform, zumindest teilweise, aus Polyamid. Für das Stapelfasergarn kommen mehrere Faserarten in Frage. Es kann, zumindest teilweise, aus pflanzlichen Naturfasern oder tierischen Naturfasern oder synthetischen Fasern bestehen. Es kann auch aus einer Mischung aus verschiedenen Natur- und/oder synthetischen Fasern zusammengesetzt sein.The filament yarn consists in an advantageous embodiment, at least partially, of polyamide. For the staple fiber yarn several types of fibers come into question. It may, at least partially, consist of vegetable natural fibers or animal natural fibers or synthetic fibers. It can also be composed of a mixture of different natural and / or synthetic fibers.
Besondere Vorteile ergeben sich bei Verwendung eines Stapelfaserngarns, das zumindest teilweise aus Zellwolle (Viskose) besteht. Überraschenderweise hat sich gezeigt, dass durch das Verzwirnen eines luftblas-texturierten Garnes aus Polyamid mit einem Viskose-Stäpelgarn ein Gestrick erzeugt werden kann, das selbst nach 5000 Scheuertouren beim Pillingtest praktisch keine Pilling-Bildung aufweist, im Scheuertest jedoch auch bei 6000 Touren noch nicht durchgescheuert ist.Particular advantages arise when using a staple fiber yarn, which is at least partially made of viscose rayon (viscose) consists. Surprisingly, it has been found that by knitting an air-textured nylon yarn with a viscose staple yarn a knitted fabric can be produced that has virtually no pilling formation even after 5000 rubs in the pilling test, but not yet in the abrasion test at 6000 tours is frayed.
Aus diesem gezwirnten neuen Mehrkomponentengarn hergestelltes Gestrick behält dabei weitgehend den weichen Griff, der für Viskosefasern typisch ist. Durch die spezielle Kombination von Viskose-Stapelfasern und PolyamidFilamenten in dem erfindungsgemäßen Mehrkomponentengarn wird erreicht, dass bei daraus hergestellten Socken diese einen wesentlich besseren Feuchtehaushalt aufweisen als herkömmliche Baumwoll- oder Wollsocken. Dies liegt darin begründet, dass Viskose eine dreimal höhere Feuchtigkeitsaufnahme wie Baumwolle oder Wolle aufweist. Auch wenn der Gewichtsanteil der Viskosefasern nur bei etwa 50% liegt, ist die Feuchtigkeitsaufnahme des Gestricks immer noch 50% höher als bei Baumwoll- oder Wollsocken. Bei Tragetests wurde der dadurch erzielte besondere Tragekomfort bestätigt. Hinzu kommt, dass diese neuen Socken einen sehr geringen Verschleiß sowie eine fast gleich bleibende Optik über den gesamten Tragetest aufweisen. Durch die Verzwirnung von einem Stapelfasergarn mit einem luft-texturierten Filamentgarn ungefähr der gleichen Feinheit zu einem Mehrkomponentenzwirn, ergibt sich überraschenderweise der vollständig neue Effekt einer gleichzeitigen Verbesserung der Scheuer- und der Pillingeigenschaften des daraus hergestellten Gestricks.Fabric made from this twisted new multicomponent yarn largely retains the soft feel typical of viscose fibers. Due to the special combination of viscose staple fibers and polyamide filaments in the multicomponent yarn according to the invention, socks produced therefrom have a substantially better moisture balance than conventional cotton or wool socks. This is due to the fact that viscose has a three times higher moisture absorption such as cotton or wool. Even though the proportion by weight of viscose fibers is only about 50%, the moisture absorption of the fabric is still 50% higher than with cotton or wool socks. In wearing tests, the resulting special comfort was confirmed. In addition, these new socks have a very low wear and an almost constant appearance throughout the wear test. The twisting of a staple fiber yarn with an air-textured filament yarn of approximately the same fineness into a multi-component yarn surprisingly results in the completely new effect of simultaneously improving the scouring and pilling properties of the knit fabric made therefrom.
Die Luftblas-Texturierung von Garnen ist ein allgemein bekanntes Garntexturierverfahren, das in mehreren Ausführungsvarianten unter Verwendung einer mit Luft beaufschlagten Texturier-Düse durchgeführt wird, die einen Garnführungskanal aufweist, in welchen wenigstens eine radiale Bohrung für die Zuführung des Druckmediums mündet. Beispiele dafür sind beispielsweise aus der
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Figur 1 zeigt ein typisches luftblas-texturiertes Filamentgarn und -
Figur 2 zeigt ein typisches Stapelfasergarn aus Viskosefasern.
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FIG. 1 shows a typical air-blown textured filament yarn and -
FIG. 2 shows a typical staple fiber yarn of viscose fibers.
Das luftblas-texturierte Garn nach
Versuche haben ergeben, dass die Eigenschaften des neuen Garns mit zunehmender Drehungszahl bei der Verzwirnung verbessert werden. Überraschend gute Ergebnisse zeigte ein neues Mehrkomponentengarn dessen beide Komponenten mit einer Anzahl Drehungen von 200 bis 1000 T/m (Touren pro Meter) miteinander verzwirnt sind. Vorzugsweise liegt die Anzahl der Drehungen zwischen 300 bis 800 T/m, wobei sich ein Bereich zwischen 550 bis 650 T/m besonders hervorhebt. Wesentlich ist in jedem Fall, dass die Stapelgarnkomponente mit der luft-texturierten Komponente verzwirnt und nicht umwunden ist. Das heißt beide Garnkomponenten müssen fest miteinander verbunden sein und auf der Außenseite des Mehrkomponentengarns in Erscheinung treten, damit sich die Eigenschaft der die beiden Komponenten bildenden Fasermaterialien zu der überraschenden Kombinationswirkung verbinden, die darin besteht, dass bei hoher Scheuerfestigkeit eine sehr geringe Pilling-Neigung auftritt.Experiments have shown that the properties of the new yarn are improved with increasing number of turns in the twisting. Surprisingly good results showed a new multi-component yarn whose two components with a number of rotations of 200 to 1000 T / m (tours per meter) are twisted together. Preferably, the number of rotations is between 300 to 800 T / m, with a range between 550 to 650 T / m being particularly prominent. It is essential in any case that the staple yarn component is twisted with the air-textured component and not wound. That is, both yarn components must be firmly bonded together and appear on the outside of the multi-component yarn, so that the property of the two components forming fiber materials to combine the surprising combination effect, which is that with high abrasion resistance, a very low pilling tendency occurs.
Die massebezogenen Anteile der beiden Komponenten in dem Mehrkomponentengarn liegen, wie sich gezeigt hat mit Vorteil in einem Bereich zwischen 65/35 und 50/50, doch sind davon abweichende Anteile vorstellbar. Dabei kann sowohl die Filamentkomponente als auch die Stapelfaserkomponente den größeren beziehungsweise kleineren Anteil ausmachen, je nach dem welche Anforderungen an das Gestrick gestellt werden, in dem das neue Mehrkomponentengarn abgestrickt ist.The mass-related proportions of the two components in the multicomponent yarn are, as has been shown, advantageously in a range between 65/35 and 50/50, but deviating proportions are conceivable. In this case, both the filament component and the staple fiber component make up the larger or smaller proportion, depending on which demands are placed on the knitted fabric in which the new multicomponent yarn is knitted.
Die beiden Komponenten sind, wie erwähnt, so miteinander verzwirnt, dass die Fasern beider Komponenten auf der Außenseite des Mehrkomponentengarns wirken. Damit wird erreicht, dass die Optik des das Mehrkomponentengarn bildenden Zwirns der eines normalen Stapelfasergarns entspricht. Dies steht im Gegensatz zu den so genannten Hochbauschgarnen, wie sie in verschiedener Konstruktion durch Luftblas-Texturieren hergestellt und zu unterschiedlichen Zwecken verwendet werden.The two components are, as mentioned, so twisted together that the fibers of both components act on the outside of the multi-component yarn. This ensures that the appearance of the multi-component yarn forming twine corresponds to that of a normal Stapelfasergarns. This is in contrast to the so-called high bulk yarns, such as those made in various designs by air blast texturing and used for various purposes.
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Es wurden folgende erfindungsgemäße Mehrkomponentengarne hergestellt und getestet:
- 1. Nm 70/1 CV (Viscose) + PA (Polyamid) 130 f 72 dtex, 600 T/m
- 2. Nm 70/1 CV (Viscose) + PA (Polyamid) 130 f 72 dtex, 330 T/m
- 3. Nm 68/1 CV (Viscose) + PA (Polyamid) 140 f 102 dtex, 600 T/m
- 1. Nm 70/1 CV (Viscose) + PA (Polyamide) 130 f 72 dtex, 600 T / m
- 2. Nm 70/1 CV (Viscose) + PA (Polyamide) 130 f 72 dtex, 330 T / m
- 3. Nm 68/1 CV (viscose) + PA (polyamide) 140 f 102 dtex, 600 T / m
Aus diesen Mehrkomponentengarnen hergestellte Gestricke verfügten über eine hervorragende Scheuerfestigkeit. Sie waren im Scheuertest bei 6000 Touren im Martindale-Gerät nicht durchgescheuert.Yarns made from these multicomponent yarns had excellent rub resistance. They were not worn through in the abrasion test at 6000 tours in the Martindale device.
Gestricke aus den Mehrkomponentengarnen 1 und 3 ergaben außerdem hervorragende Pilling-Eigenschaften, weil selbst nach 5000 Scheuertouren beim Pilling-Test praktisch keine Pilling-Bildung aufgetreten ist. Das Garn 2 zeigte sehr gute Pilling-Eigenschaften, die etwas geringer als jene der Garne 1, 3 waren.Knitted fabrics from the multicomponent yarns 1 and 3 also gave excellent pilling properties, because even after 5,000 rubs in the pilling test virtually no pilling formation occurred. The yarn 2 showed very good pilling properties which were slightly lower than those of the yarns 1, 3.
Aus diesen Garnen hergestellte Socken zeichnen sich durch hohen Tragekomfort aus. Sie wurden von Testpersonen als klimatisch ausgewogen, d. h. mit trockenem Tragegefühl ohne Frieren und Schwitzen empfunden. Die Socken zeigen eine nur geringe Knitterneigung und weisen außerdem eine gute Eignung für die Stückfärbung auf.Socks made from these yarns are characterized by their high wearing comfort. They were considered by climbers to be climatically balanced, i. H. felt dry to the touch without feeling cold and sweating. The socks show only a slight crease tendency and also have a good suitability for piece dyeing.
Abschließend sei erwähnt, dass zu pflanzlichen Naturfasern, aus denen die Stapelgarnkomponente bestehen kann Baumwolle, Kapok, Leinen etc. oder eine Mischung dieser Fasern zählten, während eine Stapelgarnkomponente aus tierischen Naturfasern aus Wolle, Kaschmir, Angora oder etc. oder eine Mischung solcher Fasern bestehen kann. Synthetisches Fasermaterial zur Verwendung bei der Stapelfaserkomponente kann Viskose, Acetate, Lyocell, Cupro, Polyamid, Polyester, Polypropylen, Polyacryl etc. oder eine Mischung dieser Fasermaterialien beinhalten. Für spezielle Anwendungsfälle kann das Fasermaterial der Filamentgarnkomponente auch Polyester, Polypropylen, Polyacryl, Polyurethan etc. oder Mischungen dieser Filamentmaterialien miteinander und mit Polyamidfilamenten aufweisen.Finally, it should be mentioned that natural vegetable fibers of which the staple yarn component may consist are cotton, kapok, linen, etc., or a mixture of these fibers, while a staple fiber component consists of animal natural fibers of wool, cashmere, angora or etc. or a mixture of such fibers can. Synthetic fiber material for use in the staple fiber component may include viscose, acetates, lyocell, cupro, polyamide, polyester, polypropylene, polyacrylic, etc., or a blend of these fiber materials. For special applications, the fiber material of the filament yarn component may also comprise polyester, polypropylene, polyacrylic, polyurethane etc. or mixtures of these filament materials with each other and with polyamide filaments.
Stapelfasergarn aus Viskosefasermaterial ist in einer besonderen Qualität, die für das neue Komponentengarn mit Vorteil verwendet werden kann unter dem Handelsnamen Tencel ® der Lenzing AG im Handel.Staple fiber yarn of viscose fiber material is in a special quality, which can be used for the new component yarn with advantage under the trade name Tencel ® Lenzing AG in the trade.
Das neue Mehrkomponentengarn ist grundsätzlich für die Herstellung von beliebigen textilen Flächengebilden, insbesondere Gestricken verwendbar, bei denen es auf hohe Scheuerfestigkeit und geringe Pilling-Neigung ankommt. Besonders vorteilhaft hat es sich aber für die Verwendung bei Beinbekleidungsstücken herausgestellt, weil bei Verwendung eines feuchtigkeitsaufsaugenden Stapelfasermaterials, beispielsweise Viskose oder Baumwolle, zusätzlich zu den erwähnten Eigenschaften noch ein ausgeglichener Feuchtigkeitshaushalt hinzutritt, der den Tragekomfort in überraschender Weise erhöht.The new multicomponent yarn can basically be used for the production of any textile fabrics, in particular crocheted fabrics, where high abrasion resistance and low pilling tendency are important. However, it has proven to be particularly advantageous for use in legwear pieces, because when using a moisture-absorbent staple fiber material, for example viscose or cotton, in addition to the properties mentioned a balanced moisture balance is added, which increases the comfort in a surprising manner.
Claims (13)
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| DE102009008054A DE102009008054A1 (en) | 2009-02-09 | 2009-02-09 | Multi-component yarn and legwear made therefrom |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP2221403A1 true EP2221403A1 (en) | 2010-08-25 |
| EP2221403B1 EP2221403B1 (en) | 2012-03-28 |
Family
ID=42269427
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP09013999A Active EP2221403B1 (en) | 2009-02-09 | 2009-11-09 | Multi-part yarn and leg clothing produced from the same |
Country Status (3)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP2221403B1 (en) |
| AT (1) | ATE551452T1 (en) |
| DE (1) | DE102009008054A1 (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102534906A (en) * | 2010-12-30 | 2012-07-04 | 上海水星家用纺织品股份有限公司 | Bi-component blend fiber containing tencel and viscose as well as preparation method and application of bi-component blend fiber |
Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR1174607A (en) * | 1957-05-07 | 1959-03-13 | Francois Masurel Freres Ets | Composite yarn based on natural fibers and man-made fibers |
| DE1061953B (en) | 1951-12-14 | 1959-07-23 | Du Pont | Voluminous loop yarn as well as process and device for its production |
| FR77731E (en) * | 1960-05-18 | 1962-04-13 | Francois Masurel Freres Ets | Improvements to the process for manufacturing a yarn consisting of a core of staple fibers trapped in continuous yarn supports |
| EP0088254A2 (en) | 1982-03-10 | 1983-09-14 | Heberlein Maschinenfabrik AG | Apparatus for texturing at least one endless multifilament yarn |
| WO1995013038A1 (en) * | 1993-11-10 | 1995-05-18 | Smith & Nephew Plc | Crepe effect bandage |
Family Cites Families (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE19624412A1 (en) * | 1996-06-19 | 1998-01-02 | Hoechst Trevira Gmbh & Co Kg | Multi-component yarns |
| DE29902103U1 (en) * | 1999-02-08 | 2000-06-15 | Heberlein Fasertech Ag | Device for connecting an endless filament yarn and a staple fiber yarn |
| DE10161419A1 (en) * | 2001-12-13 | 2003-06-18 | Temco Textilmaschkomponent | Method and device for producing a combination yarn |
-
2009
- 2009-02-09 DE DE102009008054A patent/DE102009008054A1/en not_active Withdrawn
- 2009-11-09 AT AT09013999T patent/ATE551452T1/en active
- 2009-11-09 EP EP09013999A patent/EP2221403B1/en active Active
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE1061953B (en) | 1951-12-14 | 1959-07-23 | Du Pont | Voluminous loop yarn as well as process and device for its production |
| FR1174607A (en) * | 1957-05-07 | 1959-03-13 | Francois Masurel Freres Ets | Composite yarn based on natural fibers and man-made fibers |
| FR77731E (en) * | 1960-05-18 | 1962-04-13 | Francois Masurel Freres Ets | Improvements to the process for manufacturing a yarn consisting of a core of staple fibers trapped in continuous yarn supports |
| EP0088254A2 (en) | 1982-03-10 | 1983-09-14 | Heberlein Maschinenfabrik AG | Apparatus for texturing at least one endless multifilament yarn |
| WO1995013038A1 (en) * | 1993-11-10 | 1995-05-18 | Smith & Nephew Plc | Crepe effect bandage |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102534906A (en) * | 2010-12-30 | 2012-07-04 | 上海水星家用纺织品股份有限公司 | Bi-component blend fiber containing tencel and viscose as well as preparation method and application of bi-component blend fiber |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| DE102009008054A1 (en) | 2011-02-17 |
| EP2221403B1 (en) | 2012-03-28 |
| ATE551452T1 (en) | 2012-04-15 |
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